In houses modern people furniture is one of the most important elements design: tables, cabinets, chairs and other objects are always in sight, they appearance has very important. That is why old furniture It is customary to replace it with a new one, but there is another way to revive worn-out furniture elements.

Thus, you can donate an old wardrobe new life in a completely different design, for which you just need to repaint it, and we will tell you how to paint a cabinet in this article.

Preparing the cabinet for a design change

Is it possible to repaint a wardrobe or wardrobe if it has lost its presentable appearance during use and looks shabby and shabby? Of course it is possible and even necessary. You should not throw away old furniture also because today you are unlikely to find furniture store items of this quality.

And see with your own eyes how you can transform old wardrobe The video in this article will help you.

Many of us wonder whether it is possible to paint antique furniture. After all, most city dwellers have an unnecessary closet or chest of drawers, which it would be a pity to throw away, but they also don’t want to leave it, because it looks frankly out of place in the apartment.

Painting the cabinet

If you want to rejuvenate your decor, but don't know how to paint an old cabinet with your own hands, we will provide step by step instructions all upcoming operations.

In general terms, the work to be done is as follows:

We remove handles and other fittings from furniture, remove drawers, mirrors, hooks, etc.

Then we disassemble the cabinet itself, if possible, to the very foundation.
And finally, let's paint the cabinet.

Preparation

Let's take a closer look at how to repaint old varnish Wardrobe

The first thing to do is inspect it carefully.

If there was an old varnish layer on its surface, then the polishing can be removed either with a special solution, or with acetone or turpentine, taking all precautions.

If the furniture was previously painted, then we treat the surface sandpaper until it appears wooden base. This, of course, is a rather painstaking and time-consuming process. Wood must be processed very carefully so as not to disturb its fibers and structure.
With an unpainted cabinet everything is much simpler - remove it with sandpaper upper layer, which has accumulated grease and dirt over the years. If the surface is very dirty, it can be washed simply with soapy water. If there were cracks on the furniture, then it is advisable to cover them with putty using. And after drying, sand it down.

If you want to transform your interior into classic style, then for this you need to know how to paint an antique cabinet:

You can use special chalk paints. They have a large palette of shades, both blurred and faded.
We can recommend the brands “Autentico” or “AnniSloan”. If you can't find them, you can experiment with ordinary paints on water based, for example, for .

Antique AnniSloan paint

Aging the wardrobe

We suggest you use the so-called “aging” - a deliberate emphasis on the “antiquity” of an object, deliberately emphasizing the duration of its use. Why “age” an already old thing?

If you simply paint an old cabinet, you will end up with a completely faceless, freshly repainted old piece of furniture that belongs in the garage or on the balcony. But a stylish rarity, which emanates from antiquity, can become a true decoration of the interior.

Advice. We use only matte shades.
Gloss is in no way suitable for the effect of antiquity.

Before starting “aging”, prime the surface with a special primer (primer). It will prevent the penetration of wood oils onto the finished surface, and will also promote good adhesion of the paint and the wooden base.

What you use to paint an old cabinet also plays an important role – I mean the tool.

You can paint the surface:

With a brush. Try to choose good and high-quality brushes; it is advisable to buy brushes of different sizes.
Roller
Foam rubber
Aerosol

Painting an old cabinet with your own hands - process labor-intensive, but you can get complete satisfaction when you see the end result of your work.

Below - detailed instructions, How can I do that.

It’s better to start painting from an inconspicuous side of the cabinet in order to get your hands on a little and feel how much paint to take on a roller or brush, and maybe change the shade of paint a little if you don’t like it (it’s possible to combine colors, for example, to highlight some decorative parts different color).
Then you can move to the front wall of the cabinet, where everything will be visible to the naked eye. The second layer, if necessary, is applied after the first layer has completely dried. Drying time depends on many factors and is approximately two to three hours.

Paint and protect the surface

Aging can be done in several ways:

The first method is called “worn or shabby.” It consists in the following. We apply the paint, let it dry, then sand it with three sandpapers in places where furniture wear is typical, for example, on corners or handles, etc. You can scrub down to the primer or to the wood itself.
The second method is called the “old paint bleed through effect.” Here you will need to paint the product in two layers. Apply paint of a different color with a dry brush in the right places. We do this with light, almost airy movements. This technique is called “dry brush”.

Another antique technique is called the “effect of a surface contaminated by time.” To achieve this effect, apply dark wax unevenly in places where the furniture is touched by a person’s hand.

A good and original technique is “the effect of several layers of paint applied on top of each other.” For example, let's apply to a cleaned and primed surface green paint. The next layer can be applied either bronze or gold. And, for example, the final layer can also be applied green.

After the paint has dried, take some coarse sandpaper and scrub the surface of the cabinet. One paint should show through the other. Then use finer sandpaper.

Having obtained a certain result, apply a thin layer of white diluted with water to the surface. Then cover with a craquelure varnishing composition. Now you can admire the result and make a photon memory. And by watching the video in this article, you can learn something interesting for yourself.

Protection coating

We protect the paint with special wax for wood.
It is usually sold in two types - dark or transparent.

We apply it with an ordinary clean rag or foam sponge. Rub it and wait about fifteen minutes until it dries.
Transparent wax does not change the color of the product, but dark wax gets into recessed places, holes, cutouts and gives an inimitable antiquity effect.
If the entire surface is covered with dark wax instead of transparent, the cabinet will take on a darker shade.

Tip: Waxing requires a matte finish. acrylic varnish For .
Such updating with varnish can be carried out once every six months.

Conclusion

Now you know how to paint an old cabinet with your own hands. The main thing is to want it the right way! And the new direction that you have become acquainted with is called upcycling - the reconstruction of old things. The price of such beauty can vary, it all depends on what material was used in the restoration.

How to repaint a dark cabinet in white or another light shade is of interest to many. It's not that difficult to do this at home. The main thing to do is to prepare the piece of furniture to be repainted. How to do this correctly with your own hands is suggested below.

Before you begin, you must:

Buy necessary tools and materials for removing the old coating (see How to wash off paint without problems) and applying a new one.
Choose a place to carry out the painting process in order to protect people from harmful effects the smell of paint and its drying on the object. The room should be well ventilated, small insects should not be present here, otherwise, sticking to the freshly painted surface, they will ruin the whole process.
It is necessary to take safety measures for humans. Buy:

protective glasses;
gloves;
respirator or gauze bandage on the face. She will protect from unpleasant odor paints and chemical elements, from dust that appears when removing the existing coating and further cleaning the surface.

The painted cabinet will be fully ready for use 24 hours after repainting.

To remove the old coating you will need:

Warm water with detergent diluted in it will allow you to thoroughly clean and degrease the surfaces.
Soft brush for removing dust after sanding furniture.
A primer that allows you to level the surfaces of the cabinet.
Putty that helps repair deep cracks, scratches and chips.
Different types of screwdrivers to disassemble the product, if necessary.
Rubber spatula, which is needed for applying primer and putty.
Hairdryer or special chemicals to remove old varnish.
Paint tray.
Glossy or matte varnish that protects and adds shine to the painted surface.
High-quality roller for painting large surfaces.
A set of brushes for painting corners and small details.
Film or masking tape to protect non-paintable surfaces:

mirrors;
glass

Tip: The primer should be selected in a shade that will match the color of the paint. When purchasing brushes, you need to make sure that the fibers do not fall off when painting the cabinet.

How to choose the right paint

Paint for a wooden cabinet should be furniture-grade, water-based, which includes:

Acrylic compounds. Their features:

no toxicity;
they allow air to pass through well, which allows the wood to “breathe”, which means it protects the furniture from mold and mildew;
There is practically no smell.

Alkyd paints, based on an organic solvent. The price of the compositions is the same as acrylic ones. They are good to use in wet areas, such as the bathroom.
Suitable nitro paints and oil paints, but if available separate room for coloring. They:

takes longer to dry than acrylic;
have too strong a smell.

Tip: When purchasing paint, you should immediately select a primer for it. Manufacturers also produce a primer for their paint, which significantly improves the adhesion of the coating to the surface.

What shade can you repaint a cabinet in? White color? To correctly resolve this issue, it is better to use samplers and observe them for several days.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account:

Lighting, to choose a shade.
Natural light changes throughout the day.
When you turn on the light bulb, the shade also changes.
Different shades of color look different.
Matte paints, absorbing light, create a soft image.
Glossy paints reflect light well, making whites very bright.

White colors are:

Warm. Halftones of yellow, red or orange are added to white.
Cold. In this case, green or blue undertones are added to the white color.

Tip: If white has a purple undertone, it will eventually look like pink. When choosing shades, you should take into account the lighting and the entire interior of the room.

How to paint a cabinet white correctly

The step-by-step instructions for repainting a cabinet are as follows:

A piece of furniture is washed using detergent, which is diluted in water.
While the cabinet dries, the product is disassembled into parts:

drawers are pulled out;
the doors are removed;
the handles are unscrewed.

The planes are cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. This will help remove old paint and level out minor unevenness on the surface.
A layer of primer is applied.
If present on the surface deep scratches or chips, they are sealed with putty.
Another layer of primer is applied on top.
All surfaces are cleaned of dust and dirt with a soft, dry brush or vacuum cleaner.

Tip: Do not wipe off dust damp cloth, in this case, dirt will clog the pores and cracks on the surface.

Places that are not to be painted are covered with tape or film.
Floors and nearby objects are protected, especially if the painting process is carried out using a spray can.
The first layer of coating is applied to the finally dried product.
After drying, the next layer of paint is applied.
Two or three layers are enough to give the cabinet a white color.
After all layers of paint have dried, a layer of varnish is applied: glossy or matte. This will protect the item from rapid wear and tear, and the product will receive a special charm.

Features of painting a polished cabinet

How to paint a polished or varnished cabinet (see How to paint an old varnished cabinet with your own hands)? Using the same technology as any other. The only peculiarity is applying paint to the old cracked varnish coating or polish.

They can be removed in several ways:

Mechanical, as in the photo. This is the most accessible and cheapest method, but also the most time-consuming and labor-intensive. Old varnishing or polishing is removed with sandpaper or scraped. When carrying out the process, it is necessary to protect your eyes so that dust and small pieces do not get into them.

Chemical. This is a rather expensive method, using special chemical substances, which are applied to old surface, and then washed off with water. It can be:

powder;
gel;
foam.

When removing old varnish using this method, protection of the skin and mucous membranes is necessary.

Thermal. The applied coating is removed using a hair dryer. After heating the surface, the polishing or varnish is scraped off with a spatula. This method is dangerous to use high temperature, which may result in fire.

Tip: Not all types of coating can be cleaned thermally. When heated, the top layer may not come off, and the surface will simply become charred.

To remove nail polish you will need to purchase:

Paint.
Sandpaper.
Screwdriver.
Spatula, brushes, roller.
Etching solution.
Primer.
Washing powder.
Composition for wood processing.

Process technology:

Preparatory work is being carried out:

doors are removed;
shelves are removed;
hooks, loops, handles are unscrewed;
fasteners are removed.

Dismantled parts are cleaned. To remove paint, the removed elements are immersed in an etching solution.
All parts are thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Composition with washing powder All internal and external surfaces of the cabinet are washed.
Removing the old coating: construction hairdryer the top layer of the coating is heated in a small area.
Use a spatula to carefully remove the old varnish. At the same time, you need to try not to damage the surface of the cabinet, which will worsen its appearance and add extra work.
The surface is sanded grinder or sandpaper glued to a block.
The surface is processed in a circular motion until it becomes rough and dull.
The exposed tree structure is processed protective equipment: fungicides and insecticides.
If chips and deep scratches are found, they should be covered with carpenter's putty (see Putty on wood: how to do it wisely), which can be cleaned well after repair.
Wood primer is applied.
After drying, all surfaces of the product are polished with fine-grained sandpaper.
Polished furniture is painted with alkyd paint:

recessed planes;
upper inner part of the wall;
sidewalls;

The outer surfaces of the cabinet are painted with a roller. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps or smudges.
If necessary, apply a second coat of paint.
On a pre-set table plastic film, shelves are painted, drawers, doors.

It's very nice to transform furniture to suit your taste. Don't be afraid to paint an old cabinet in any color. The video in this article will show you how best to do this.

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How to repaint a closet and give furniture a second life - practical recommendations and advice

Do you have an old Soviet cabinet and you don’t know how to get rid of it? Do not rush to throw away old furniture, because it is easy to restore, update and make it visually attractive. Read on to learn how to easily and effortlessly give furniture a second life.

How to prepare a cabinet for painting

Updating old furniture is not difficult, as there is a wide range of paint materials and tools for using them on the market. However, the result of furniture restoration will depend 50% on how well it was prepared for painting.

Illustrations	Preparation instructions wooden surfaces to coloring
	Freeing from contents and disassembling. To simplify Finishing work, unload the cabinet shelves, and then remove the doors.
	Seal the cracks. Putty is used to fill cracks and dents in wood. Apply the putty with a spatula along the direction of the crack. We try to ensure that the thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 2 mm at a time.
	Create a rough surface. To ensure better adhesion of wood and primer, the surface of the furniture is treated with medium-grain sandpaper.
	Remove grease and dirt. Dampen a piece of thick cloth with solvent and wipe the surface to remove all dirt and sawdust.
	Padding. Cover the sanded surface with a layer of deep penetration primer.

What paint to paint the cabinet

When choosing paint, pay attention to the following criteria:

Matching the paint to the restored surface. If you are going to restore wooden furniture, you need wood paint or a universal option suitable for different materials;
Texture of the painted surface. Among the range of paints and varnishes there are coatings with glossy, semi-gloss, matte and embossed texture;
Consumption. The lower the consumption, the less paint will be used.

Illustrations	What to choose?
	Alkyd and pentaphthalic enamels. These paints are characterized by good hiding power, glossy or semi-gloss texture. The most common option is PF-115 enamel. Beware of fakes, as among inexpensive enamels there are many unoriginal low-quality products.
	Acrylic enamels. The service life of such coverage is at least 8 years. The disadvantage of acrylic enamels is their high price compared to less expensive alkyd analogues.
	Oil paint. Oil paints good affordable price. Otherwise, the coating is distinguished by a persistent toxic odor, long drying time and a short service life.

Cabinet Painting Tools

Illustrations	Tool and its description
	Brushes. When choosing a brush for painting furniture, consider its width and bristle length. The longer the bristles, the easier it will be to spread the paint evenly across the surface of the cabinet.
	Rollers. A paint roller allows you to cover a larger area of the surface in one pass than can be done with a brush. Moreover, the roller paints smoothly without any relief.
	Spray guns (spray guns). The advantage of a spray gun is a perfectly even layer of coating plus the ability to deal with coloring faster than you can do using a roller.

Wood cabinet painting process

Before starting painting work, wipe the surface of the prepared cabinet with a solvent.

When painting in two or more colors, we use masking tape, with which we cover certain parts of the furniture.

When painting a cabinet with a continuous layer, we try to cover as much of the surface as possible at once. We point the painting tool in one direction, then there will be a greater chance that the coating will lie flat.

When working with oil or alkyd paints, we ventilate the room. When working with acrylic enamels There is no special need for ventilation, since there is no toxic odor.

Painting a chipboard cabinet (preparation)

Painting furniture made of chipboard and MDF begins with preparatory work, which are defined by type decorative covering furniture:

If the chipboard is covered with glossy vinyl, the surface is sanded with fine sandpaper to ensure adequate adhesion to the primer;
If the chipboard is laminated with matte veneer, the surface is simply degreased and primed.

The damaged surface of chipboard furniture is prepared in accordance with the type and degree of damage.

Painting a wooden cabinet made of chipboard

If several days have passed after applying the primer, wipe the furniture with a rag soaked in a solvent. After this the paint is sprayed even layer all over the closet.

After the first layer has completely dried, the second layer is applied. As a rule, two layers of coating are sufficient for high-quality painting. After the applied layers have dried, a layer of varnish is applied, which, in addition to decorative function will serve as a protective reinforcing layer.

It is advisable to varnish any painted surface, no matter what texture is ultimately needed - glossy or matte. To obtain a glossy texture there is a glossy varnish, to obtain a matte texture there is a matte varnish.

Painting kitchen cabinets

Paint kitchen cabinets you need it just like other furniture, but there are several features:

For ease of restoration, the furniture will have to be moved to a larger room, since the kitchen is typical apartment tight;
Kitchen furniture is covered with a layer of fat and soot, so you need to pay attention Special attention preparatory work;
Kitchen furniture has to be washed frequently, so you need to paint it in several layers to ensure that the coating is resistant to abrasion.

How to artistically paint a closet and create color gradations

Alternating similar or contrasting shades is popular when decorating modern furniture, made in a minimalist style.

Gradation of colors allows you to visually adjust the room. For example, changing the shade from light to dark from bottom to top will make the ceiling visually lower. And vice versa, gradation from dark shades to light ones in the direction from bottom to top will make the ceiling higher.

Spot Painting for Polished Cabinet

The painting on the surface of the cabinet can be detailed with precise drawing of the ornament. But for such decoration you need to be able to draw. If you don’t have any artistic skills, you can do it simpler and, as shown in the photo, apply colored dots with a brush in a random order, so that you end up with an interesting combination that will look harmonious from a distance.

Closet Update Ideas

You can update your closet by completely repainting it. But this is not the easiest solution since all the old coating needs to be removed, and then primer, paint and varnish must be applied. There are simpler options.

Fabric covering

If you don’t want to repaint the furniture or cover it with self-adhesive vinyl, why not use fabric as a decorative covering. Considering the variety of fabrics on sale, it would be wrong to refuse to use such material for decoration.

The cabinet surfaces are coated with a layer of low-penetration adhesive. Then the fabric is stretched and smoothed over the entire surface.

Master class No. 1: painting with a stencil

Paint selection. For painting through a stencil, it is preferable to use paints with a semi-liquid and thick consistency. This will prevent bleeding from under the stencil.
Selecting Brushes and Rollers. I do not recommend working with a stencil with a brush, as smudges will be inevitable. Best result guarantees the use of a foam roller or foam swab.
Technologies and painting methods. The stencil is applied to the surface of the cabinet. The swab is dipped into paint. Then the swab is applied with light pressure to the holes in the stencil.

Master class No. 2: updating a chipboard cabinet

Let's look at a simple guide to restoring a bedside cabinet.

Illustrations	Step by step guide
	Removal of old coating and primer. The lamination layer is removed until particle board. The cleaned surface is primed.
	Putty and primer. Irregularities on the surface of the cabinet are puttied. After the putty has dried, the surface is sanded and covered with a layer of adhesive primer.
	Painting. After the primer has dried, the surface of the furniture is evenly painted using a spray gun. If necessary, paint is applied in two layers.

Master class No. 3: painting a polished cabinet

Painting process. Painting polished furniture is no more difficult than painting a regular cabinet. The secret is that all the gloss from the surface will have to be removed, and only after that you can start painting work. The remaining stages are standard, namely, applying a primer and applying a paint coating.

Materials and tools. To work with polished surfaces, standard painting tools and standard paints and varnishes. An exception is a sander with replaceable abrasive attachments. You can grind a polished surface by hand, but it will take a lot of time, so it is better to use a mechanical tool.

Decoration process. When painting, you don’t have to limit yourself to applying a single-color coating. Using masking tape you can combine several colors and shades. Using stencils, you can apply decorative ornaments, using interesting combinations of shades for this.

Wallpaper or film. If you don’t want to mess with a painting tool and don’t want to waste time on sanding, cover the cabinet with self-adhesive vinyl or wallpaper. The use of wallpaper can generally be considered as an ideal opportunity to harmoniously fit the wardrobe into the interior of the room.

Let's sum it up

Now you know everything about how to make an old cabinet look new. If you have any questions about decorating furniture, ask them in the comments to the article.

It often happens that there is furniture and it is not damaged, just tired. WITH wooden furniture everything is obvious, you can repaint it. And if it's chipboard, lacquered furniture or MDF? There are, of course, nuances here. Today I’ll tell you using own experience how to repaint a chipboard cabinet. Furniture made from MDF and lacquered are painted in the same way.

This article is a continuation of the post about updating a room with your own hands. In the first part I told you how to do redecorating with my own hands and without experience. In particular, I managed to repaint the usual vinyl wallpapers. You can read about this.

Background: There will be several repainting objects.

Huge corner cupboard, this was our first family furniture purchase. I would never buy such chipboard now))). Although the cabinet is, of course, very practical, it essentially replaces a small dressing room. But... it is 15 years old, it is absolutely outdated in appearance, and since this cabinet is not an antique, old age is not doing it any favors. And most importantly, I’m so tired of him that I don’t want to look at him.
Dresser. The chest of drawers is veneered and has already been redone once (more on that), but the change in textiles and wall color made it not really fit into the interior. I would also like to pair it with a closet.
Mirror, homemade, with a bamboo frame. As dear as a memory. This is the first thing my husband and I did together. This is where my apartment handicraft began. It has also already been repainted and also does not match the current interior, so I will change the color.

According to my preliminary calculations, the cost of these alterations will be somewhere around 4,000 rubles. Agree, this is negligible compared to buying new furniture.

What I needed:

The brush is soft with artificial bristles. 2-3 pieces.
Small fur roller 10-15 cm. 2-3 pieces. You can take one handle-nozzle and three replaceable rollers.
Roller tray. Also small, should fit the size of the roller.
Masking tape.
Aerosol acrylic paint (black).
Adhesive primer OTEX Akva (Tikkurila). 1 jar. This primer is water based and therefore odorless. It is used for difficult surfaces on which the paint does not adhere or adhere. It is she who must firmly bind the chipboard and paint.
Acrylic paint or enamel. 2 cans. I chose ESCARO (acrylic paint for furniture, made in Estonia). At first I wanted HELMI (Tikkurila), but I had to travel far to get it. It may also be suitable alkyd enamel, but it is solvent-based, so it smells, and painting is not a quick job. In general, any not the cheapest, high-quality acrylic paint. In my Estonian it was explicitly stated “for furniture”. I liked it and can confidently recommend it.
New handles for furniture. I ordered it on Aliexpress for 80 rubles. thing.
Sandpaper (skin), with grain 320. I.e. very small. 3-4 sheets.
Rags.
Degreaser. Convenient with a spray nozzle. You can, of course, use regular white spirit, but the smell is deadly. The degreaser smells significantly less. Leftovers can also come in handy: it’s great for removing labels, washing a mirror or glass that nothing can take anymore and the stains stubbornly remain))).
Polyethylene to protect the floor and painting area.
Screwdriver Set.

Work order:

Closet.

Stage 1.

I removed unnecessary things from the closet, I didn’t put everything away (I somehow wanted to move around in the apartment more or less freely), I just pushed them deeper and covered them with plastic.
She unscrewed the handles. I took the doors off their hinges.

At first I wanted to paint it like this without removing the door, then I realized that it would be inconvenient. So I took a risk... and filmed it. It turned out not to be difficult. True, worries about how to put them back on were present until the last moment. In the end, I also screwed it myself; I didn’t have the patience to wait for my husband))).
I pulled out the built-in lamps and wrapped them in a suspended state masking tape.
The same tape was used to protect the walls on the sides of the cabinet, the floor, and the mirrors on the doors.
Prepared workplace. I decided to paint... on the bed)))! I covered it carefully with polyethylene. And I have never regretted this choice. The bed was large and high, everything fit, there was no need to bend over and crawl on all fours. I prepared approximately equal stacks of books and wrapped them in cling film. They are needed as substrates so that the doors can be lifted and painted as if suspended; the painted edges will not come into contact with a flat surface.

Stage 2.

I sanded all surfaces that needed to be painted. It is necessary to sand lightly, without fanaticism, with the finest sandpaper. Light circular movements. Purpose: to create roughness without removing the laminated layer. If there are dents and scratches, they should be filled with putty at this stage. After sanding, thoroughly wipe all surfaces with degreaser. It will remove dirt, grease marks, and everything that can disrupt the adhesion of the primer and paint.

Stage 3.

Primer. Hard to reach places passed with a brush, the rest with a roller. A thick layer is absolutely not necessary; it must be covered with primer without drips and in a thin layer. Uneven coloring is not a problem, but there should be no gaps. I didn’t prime the rattan inserts; the paint applied well to them anyway.

Stage 4.

This is the main part - the paint job. You need to paint in two layers. Be sure to roll the roller on the tray to remove excess paint. More is better thin layers than one with drips. Difficult places painted with a brush. Inner part I decided not to paint the closet, but since I wanted to “marry” her with outer side If it was necessary, I painted the outer ends of the shelves and the fronts of the drawers.

They are easy to paint - just roll them with a roller; with a brush it is more difficult not to go beyond the edges. Wipe off any blemishes immediately with a cloth. Each layer was dried, as recommended by the manufacturer, the acrylic dries “touch” in an hour and, in principle, you can carefully turn the door over and paint the other side.

Stage 5.

I assembled the closet. I screwed the doors and handles. I removed the masking tape and cleaned everything up. At first I planned to keep the doors open for two days, I was afraid that they would stick. Nothing like that - you can close it right away.

Dresser.

She pulled out the boxes. Protect the surface to be painted with masking tape. Since the chest of drawers was already painted, I didn’t prime it, I just lightly sanded it and used a degreaser. I painted it faster, got impudent and didn’t wait the allotted time to apply the second coat. The first one dried out (about an hour) and the second one immediately. In the end everything is fine.
I didn’t buy new handles; I repainted the existing ones from a spray can with black aerosol acrylic paint.

Mirror.

The mirror was covered with white acrylic paint, which I had in stock, and lightly patinated (aged) with a dry brush using silver paint.

Important! Acrylic paints They dry quite quickly “touch-free”, but they polymerize for at least a month; with a primer the process can take even longer. The painted product can be used almost immediately (or it’s better to wait 2 days) and even wiped with a damp cloth. But within a month, the coating remains very vulnerable; it must be handled carefully, not scratched or rubbed with force. If shelves or horizontal surfaces are painted, then it is better not to immediately place things on them that may “stick”, wait until the paint “sets”. Although I immediately put everything I needed on the chest of drawers, nothing stuck).

Well...the work is labor-intensive, but I was pleased with the result. The paint job ends up looking no worse than the factory paint, no brush marks are visible. It holds up well too. I haven’t tried scratching, I use the furniture as usual. But usually I don’t scratch it))). Although I will conduct an experiment in a month. The room has been pretty updated). Alas, the photos after compression leave much to be desired; in fact, the colors are brighter and cleaner, but this is not so important.

If you also want to redo furniture and have questions, write and I will answer. And if such a rework seems complicated to someone, I assure you that it is not, labor-intensive - yes, but quite doable without any experience. You can just start with internal, unnoticeable parts, or with small furniture, a chair, for example. The rework took three days. At the same time, I managed to cook and... suffer from bronchitis + my leg is still slightly lame after the cast. The “disabled painter” was able to paint, which means you can too))).