One of the common ways to finish the ceiling is to cover it with clapboard. Materials used for this include solid wood, MDF and plastic. In any case, the ceiling surface correct installation turns into a perfectly flat surface with characteristic appearance. The placement of stripes can contribute to the correct visual perception of the room. Any interested owner who is not afraid of work and would not mind using construction tools can make a ceiling from a lining with their own hands. Having become familiar with detailed instructions and having purchased everything necessary materials, you can begin to implement your plans.
In the usual sense, in order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, a frame is first formed. Its purpose is to separate the future finishing surface of the ceiling from the uneven and unattractive base, to bring out a single level plane and ensure the strength of the entire structure. It is on the frame that the lining and lighting fixtures will subsequently be held. The lining of the selected type is already sewn on top of the frame. Even when they say that they sew the lining directly onto the wall or ceiling, it seems like without a frame, a sheathing is still formed.
Strips of material (actually “lining”) are fixed across the frame guides. The general direction of the stripes is selected in accordance with the requirements of the room design. Visually, the room will appear longer, precisely in the direction in which the lining is laid.
You can form a frame from. The same ones used to secure drywall. In addition, the classic option remains the use case wooden beam.
What exactly should you choose from these materials? It all depends on the material from which the lining is made and operating conditions. So for wet areas like a bathroom or kitchen, a metal frame and plastic lining for the ceiling are better suited. Wooden or MDF lining is allowed in the kitchen, again with a metal frame.
different kinds wooden lining
In residential premises, wooden beams in combination with any material you like are perfect. On the positive side wooden frame The process of installing the lining becomes simpler. It is easier to nail small nails to wood, tighten screws and attach clips.
What will you need?
You will need the following set of tools, which should always be kept nearby when covering the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands:
- Hammer;
- Impact drill or hammer drill, screwdriver;
- Construction corner, water level, bubble level or rule;
- Tape measure, centimeter;
- Hacksaw, metal scissors (for metal profiles).
The material is naturally selected from the selected materials. So for a wooden frame it is best to use timber 20X40, 40X40, 50X50 mm. The entire structure will be made up of the selected timber and its derivatives. To fasten the beams and attach them to the ceiling and walls, plastic dowels are used together with nails-screws (8X45) or anchors, and hardened wood screws (4X50, 4X75).
For metal frame the list of purchases will already increase, at least in the number of components:
- UD profile for perimeter formation;
- CD profile as the basis of the frame;
- U-shaped fastenings and cross fastenings “crab”;
- Flea-tapping screws with a drill tip, metal screws with a piercing head.
The instructions below will help you find out how much material you need to purchase, after reading which you will be able to calculate the quantity based on your needs.
To attach the lining to the ceiling, or rather to the frame, staples are used construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer, nails, special clips, the latter mainly for plastic lining, also called PVC panels. Nails can only be used in combination with a wooden frame.
Frame installation
Even before starting the main work, the lowest point on the ceiling is selected and a measurement is made from it 6-10 cm down the wall, where the first mark is made. Next, the mark is transferred to all four walls using a water level. At best it is used laser level. As a result, a line will be obtained along the perimeter of the room, along which the installation of the frame will be verified.
Important: If wooden beams and boards are used in construction or renovation, they must also be treated with a fire retardant to protect them from rot, pests and increase fire safety.
Option 1: frame based on wooden beams
The beams must be fixed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to how the lining will be sheathed. The distance between the bars is selected in the range of 40-60 cm for plastic and 60-100 cm for wood. The beams must be mounted so that their lower edge is strictly parallel to the floor and at the same level as all other beams. You can check this using a water level.
So, at the beginning, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room at a distance of approximately 10-15 cm from the wall. Be sure to check the level not only at the edges of the beam, but also in the middle. For every 60 cm it is necessary to attach a beam to the ceiling. Impact screws and dowels or anchors are used for this. If the beam is distant from the ceiling, wooden plates made from the remnants of the same beam are placed.
Between installed beams a rope or fishing line is pulled along their lower edge. Using the line on the wall and the stretched line as a guide, the remaining beams are installed. Once everything is ready, you can start strengthening.
For reliability, you can install jumpers between the main beams. So, from the same timber, pieces are cut with a length equal to the distance between the installed beams and attached to them in the middle of the ceiling. However, it is enough to install jumpers only in those places where an increased load on the frame is implied, that is, places where lamps are installed. At this point the frame is considered ready.
Option 2: frame based on a metal profile
The rules for constructing the frame are the same as for and. Along the perimeter of the walls according to the drawn level line suspended ceiling The UD profile is attached using dowels. Next, the first two outer CD profiles are attached at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall, also perpendicular to the direction of the lining. Along the length of the profile, it should be secured with U-shaped fastenings to the ceiling, with a frequency of every 40-60 cm. Using a stretched rope or fishing line, the remaining profiles are installed and secured along the ceiling at a distance the same as when using timber. Jumpers in places where reinforcement of the frame is required are mounted using crab crosses.
Before installing the lining, wiring for the lighting system is also laid. Loops or wire leads are left in the right places. After covering with clapboard, they can be pulled out through the prepared holes and.
Cladding
If the lining is made of wood or MDF
Lining from solid wood and MDF is mounted identically. To do this, strips of material are cut to a length equal to the distance between the walls minus 5 mm. A slightly smaller size is necessary to form a gap; this will protect the ceiling from the effects of thermal expansion. If you are not sure that the walls are perfectly parallel, it is better to cut a strip of lining for a specific installation location.
The installation of the lining on the ceiling begins with the first strip, which is fixed on both sides along the entire length, that is, to each guide. This leaves a gap of 3-5 mm to the wall. Subsequent strips are inserted at a slight angle with a groove into the lock of the previous strip, and are pushed tightly into it. For reliability, you can use a rubber hammer and lightly tap the end of the strip. The second side is nailed or screwed to the frame guides behind the lower edge of the lock. As mentioned above, either self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails are used for this.
Advice: When using self-tapping screws, it is advisable to pre-drill holes in the places where they are installed on the strips, otherwise the material may chip. When using nails, use a hammer to avoid damaging the front part of the lining with a hammer blow.
In the process of assembling the ceiling, it is important to take care in advance of the output of the supply wires in the required places and make the corresponding holes on the lining strips. After the ceiling is completely installed, it will be almost impossible to do this without the risk of damaging the front side.
Continue installing stripes to the opposite end of the room. The last strip is best driven into the lock using small wedges that are driven between the strip and the wall. Most likely, you will have to cut the strip along its entire length, because the whole strip will not fit. MDF lining, just like plastic, is easier to cut with a knife. Incisions are made along the entire length on both sides, after which the strip is carefully broken. Strips of solid wood will have to be cut using either a hacksaw or a jigsaw. There is no need to additionally glue ceilings made of wooden lining; securing all the strips to each of the guides will result in a strong and durable structure. Moreover, the glued lining will begin to creak and crack over time.
Video: finishing the ceiling in an apartment with wooden paneling
If the lining is made of plastic
Plastic lining, or PVC panels, are laid in the same way as wooden lining, and with the same gaps on all sides to compensate for thermal expansion of 3-5 mm. However, before installing the first strip, a U-shaped groove should be secured around the perimeter of the new ceiling, in which the extreme ends of all strips will be hidden. Often this groove is an integral part of the plinth or represents collapsible design from L-shaped parts. One of them is fixed before covering with clapboard, and the second is snapped in after. It all depends on which option will be purchased.
You can make the cladding of a living space from anything; fortunately, the market provides huge selection. It's just a matter of personal preference and price. The desire to repair the ceiling yourself will not be enough, since you will need a special tool and at least the slightest idea about repair work. The lining itself is a fairly easy-to-work material, which means its installation will not be difficult for a real man.
Preparatory work before starting sheathing
You cannot immediately cover the ceiling with clapboard. First you need to select and purchase finishing materials, fasteners and missing tools. And, of course, you can’t do without pre-cleaning surfaces, preparation and insulation.
But let's take things in order. First you need to choose a quality one, and most importantly durable material, which will also suit your taste.
Type of lining
Wood paneling
Cladding panels have a specific structure for their convenient fixation. All bars are mounted using grooves and ridges, which are assembled like a puzzle. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will have an ideal shape and show no traces of defects.
Wood panels are divided into categories:
- The “Extra” category is assigned to materials made from premium raw materials, do not have knots or dark spots. This category is the most expensive;
- Category “A” includes the same high-quality bars, but with no big amount knots. A kind of price-quality union. At the same time, the prices for such goods are quite acceptable;
- Category “B” is best used in rooms that do not require close attention - recreation areas in the country, balconies, loggias;
- Category “C” is panels made from the cheapest types of wood with knots and dark spots.
Healthy! The best materials for upholstery are made from the following trees: pine, linden or cedar. This is a classification of wood coverings. But cladding ceilings with clapboards is more diverse; PVC materials can also be included in this category.
Plastic panels
PVC panels are divided into:
- Seamless panels. Their design and ridge-by-ridge cladding technology make the ceiling as smooth as possible with a barely noticeable seam. Most often in in this case use panels of greater width in order to reduce the number of visible seams. In the photo you can clearly see the quality of the panels;
- Panels with highlighted seam. They look similar to wooden lining. However, such cladding does not need to be pre-treated with anything;
Before covering the ceiling with plastic lining, you need to pay attention to some points when working with PVC panels:
- The plastic itself has a fairly flexible structure and hides surface defects well. But such panels should not be subjected to constant stress, since cracks subsequently form that cannot be removed in any way;
- has high moisture resistance, but Sun rays harmful to him. If the sun constantly hits such a ceiling, then over time it will lose its original appearance.
MDF panels
The fastenings on products made of wood and MDF are similar, so lining the ceiling is done in the same way as with wooden blocks.
Next step after choosing wood panels
When all the facing material has been purchased, it must be prepared. You can’t immediately start covering the room.
- Immediately after purchasing the materials, they must be removed from the packaging and laid out separately from each other;
- It is recommended to lay out the panels on wooden blocks or just a flat, dry surface;
- Wooden panels must be dried first. No one can guarantee the complete absence of moisture in a product.
Advice! The optimal time for drying wooden materials is 1 quarter.
Be sure to use these tips, since sheathing the ceiling with clapboard long years This is possible only if the humidity of the room and the tree are equal. Otherwise, there will always be a possibility of deformation of the skin.
Note! Plastic and MDF panels do not need to be dried. Before installation, the materials should be kept for no more than three days in a warm place.
We begin installation
First you need to stock up on a special tool:
- Hammer, drill or drill. If indoors concrete ceiling, then you need to use a drill with a diameter of 6-8 millimeters.
- Electric screwdriver or a screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws. This device will significantly speed up and simplify the cladding process.
- Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting required sizes panels. Suitable for wood, plastic and MDF.
- Construction tape.
- Building level for the most even finish.
Advice! If the right tool is not at home and, most likely, it will not be useful in the future, then in specialized construction stores There is a tool rental service. You will not only need to pay for use, but also leave some kind of document or other collateral.
Now you can safely get to work. Below are instructions: how to properly sheathe a ceiling with clapboard with my own hands and using the above recommendations.
Preparatory stage of work:
- Clean the ceiling from dust, dirt and even plaster, as it often crumbles;
- Draw markup to build the sheathing. Immediately determine the direction in which the lining will lie. The choice should be made in favor of a direction in which there will be no end joints between the panels;
Note! Wood materials are not as durable as metal constructions. If the choice is made in favor of wood, then it must be processed before installation. additional funds for guard. But it is impossible to completely get rid of the possibility of rot or mold appearing over the years, since moisture can accumulate there at any time.
- If you own a house or cottage, be sure to lay a thermal insulation layer in the ceiling. The profile posts are installed at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from each other and insulation is laid in this space. This should not be done in apartments;
- The lathing is attached to the ceiling using dowel nails. The depth of the fittings is selected according to the thickness of the frame;
- Fasteners should be installed at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters. If the ceiling is covered with eurolining, the distance of fasteners is reduced by half. This is due to the greater weight and thickness of the material.
Preparatory work is a very important step towards beautiful ceiling, which, at the same time, will last for many years. At this stage it is important to make the surface perfectly smooth and even.
Installation of lining on a structure
Installing panels on the sheathing is a fairly simple task and does not require the use of special knowledge. It is advisable if you have an assistant in this matter. Then lining of any length will be installed quickly and efficiently.
- The first block should be firmly fixed to the wall.
- Subsequent rows of panels are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones. Each panel must be secured in place where the sheathing runs.
- Holes for lighting fixtures and pipes are measured during direct installation, so as not to make mistakes and not do anything unnecessary.
To ensure a perfect ceiling, panel fasteners should be inserted at the junction of the groove and tongue. Thus, the screw heads will not be visible. If nails are used for sheathing, their heads are cut with a special tool. Subsequently, wax must be applied to the attachment points.
Before covering the ceiling with plastic, openings are made in all panels. A drill (necessarily small in diameter) is used for this, which will not damage the surface of the panel.
- Before covering the ceiling with clapboard, conduct a thorough check of the electricity and communications in the ceiling. If problems are discovered after installation of the cladding, then when it is removed, damage and defects may remain;
- If the cladding is made of wooden material, then fittings from of stainless steel, for example, since it will not cause rust. In the case of plastic, you can use any fasteners, as it is easy to clean;
- Under no circumstances should installation begin if the room temperature is below 10 degrees. You should also not carry out work in a damp room;
- It will be useful to insulate the cladding in places of contact with the wiring.
Operation of the lining
If you are using wooden materials for the ceiling, then they must first be coated with an antiseptic, and then paint and varnish materials for protection from ultraviolet radiation and other harmful effects.
Do-it-yourself ceiling cladding with plastic lining also provides for some care measures:
- Cleaning the surface from accumulating dust and dirt;
- Treatment of chips and scratches with special wax.
In the case of MDF panels, the only thing to avoid is moisture. Its percentage in the room should not exceed 75%.
Conclusion
The article describes in detail and step by step how to hem a ceiling with clapboard yourself. We recommend watching the video in the article - it shows the process more clearly.
When working on interior decoration, use various materials. But, despite modern technologies and developments, lining is in great demand on the market building materials. Today, lining is a leader in the field of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how to cover the ceiling with clapboard on a balcony or any other room.
The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful view natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.
Materials and tools for fastening the lining
Tools you should take:
- screwdriver or impact drill;
- nails/dowels/screws/screws/clasps;
- hammer;
- centimeter/tape measure;
- building level;
- hacksaw for metal;
- table and stepladder.
The main elements of installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for covering the ceiling comes in two types - wooden and metal.
When installing with a wooden frame (lathing), you will need:
- suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
- wooden beams measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
- self-tapping screws
The beams for a wooden frame must be perfectly smooth and intact.
If you choose a metal frame, you will need a metal profile made of galvanized steel, hangers, and metal screws.
The material of the ceiling lining is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Wood paneling (pine, linden) is in great demand.
For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen premises you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. Also for suitable for kitchens and wooden lining, but it is better to attach it to the base metal sheathing.
Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles cannot be deformed by humid air.
Natural wooden lining panels are ideal for lining the ceiling in a bathhouse, despite the high degree of humidity in the room.
Preparatory work
How to cover a ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting fastening work, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.
After eliminating the defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with a mold repellent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.
Installation
Step 1: Frame installation
Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with installing the frame. Without lathing, covering with clapboard will not only not hide flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them. 
Before installing the sheathing, the first step is to mark it. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of the metal frame or the slats of the wooden sheathing must lie transversely (i.e., perpendicular to the direction of the lining), and vice versa for the longitudinal direction of the lining.
The sheathing must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise skewing of the lining may occur. Wooden sheathing has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for covering the ceiling with wood paneling.
Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:
- If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then wooden beams are attached directly to ceiling surface.
- To level the frame level, use wedges made of wood or plastic.
- First, brackets are installed on the ceiling and then beams are added to them.
If the ceiling is sheathed plastic panels lining, then the craftsmen recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm between the wooden beams. For lining panels made of solid wood, the distance between the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.
Installation of metal sheathing consists of the following steps:
- Take measurements of the height of the room/room in all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
- From the selected point, measure a line 5-10 cm - level.
- Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account established level the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fastening.
- It is necessary to attach profile hangers to the ceiling surface. The suspension plates are bent downwards.
- Metal main profiles are attached to hangers and initial profiles.
- Before final fastening, you should check the level of all frame profiles.
The choice of lathing depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also have a higher price compared to a wooden frame.
Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)
Before attaching the lining, you should check the functionality of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.
Step 3: Cladding
During the work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Because the workflow for each type of lining is similar. Strips (panels) of the lining are cut to a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly smooth, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with the groove towards the corner.
Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat a distance of 5 mm from the wall.
The final strips of lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, you can use a small rubber hammer: carefully tap on the end faces of the panels.
The second side of the panel should be screwed/nailed to the sheathing guides at the bottom of the lock.
As you lay the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate outlet holes. Otherwise, after completing the work, it will be problematic to remove the electrical wiring and the material may be deformed.
The process of attaching the panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. Most last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven between the lining panel and the wall.
Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. If wooden lining is used, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, you need to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.
Of the common methods of fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:
- fixation with clamps. Using a special construction bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with clamps is suitable for plastic lining.
- open fixation. This method is used when covering the ceiling with heavy lining panels. The open method requires at least minimal skill and accuracy.
- fixation with self-tapping screws. This method is used, like clamps, when covering lining with plastic panels.
As a fastening in this method Use self-tapping screws or small nails with small heads (or without heads). Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort the appearance of the coating. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.
When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special extension for the nail (doboynik).
In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.
Step 4: Installing skirting boards
In conclusion installation work A decorative plinth (or corners) is installed along the perimeter of the updated ceiling. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the cut strips of lining and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.
Conclusion
The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not labor-intensive in itself. It can easily be handled by a person with no experience in repair and finishing work or with a minimum of repair skills.
It is best to attach the lining to the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. This way you can significantly reduce the time, make the fastening better and more even. In addition, holding the lining panel on your own is very difficult and inconvenient.
As a result, finishing the ceiling with clapboard looks presentable, such a ceiling will for a long time delight with its ideal appearance, texture and color.
Cladding the ceiling surface is a construction event for which high demands are initially placed. This is due to the characteristics of the materials used and the fact that in most cases a homeowner who decides to cover the ceiling himself will need experience and availability specialized tools. Regardless of the type of materials used, the technology of ceiling cladding is generally similar and involves the arrangement of a frame and its subsequent cladding. However, the materials used in the process of finishing ceilings are different, and their choice is determined by the characteristics of a particular finishing method. Despite the fact that carrying out finishing activities using most methods requires certain skills of a specialist in this field, there are those that can be carried out by everyone, including beginners, and the most common of them is covering the ceiling with clapboard. It is widely used on construction sites, being the material of choice in the process of carrying out both external and internal finishing work. The World Wide Web offers a lot of information on this topic, however, this article, being the most complete and structured, will most effectively answer the question: “How to cover a ceiling with clapboard?”
Ceiling made of lining: main types of material
Despite the fact that the construction market provides the consumer with freedom of choice among a variety of inexpensive polymer materials Today, many true connoisseurs of natural wood remain for finishing premises that have won the trust of developers. Craftsmen's commitment to use of this material due to its aesthetic characteristics, environmental safety and ease of use, and the unique woody aroma in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard is, in the literal sense of the word, legendary. Besides, thermal insulation characteristics wood allows you to create a balanced microclimatic environment in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard.
Wooden lining: specifics of the material
The lining is a facing board, the specificity of which lies in the tongue-and-groove fixation system. In the last century, it was used only for covering carriages, which is why it got its name, subsequently becoming a material widely used for both external and interior decoration premises. In the post-war years, being one of the most budget options, lining was the only finishing material available. Over the past decades, lining has not only not lost its former popularity, but has also established itself as a reliable facing material. Subsequently, along with the advent of new technologies for manufacturing lining, the scope of its application expanded significantly.
The production of lining is a multi-stage process, including the production of edged boards with its subsequent industrial drying, the application of tongue-and-groove joints, careful grinding of the surfaces of the material and, finally, the sorting of finished products. The specified production features determine the advantages of the material, such as the possibility of obtaining a strong connection of panels without gaps, an attractive appearance, and therefore the material does not require additional processing, and its decorative characteristics significantly higher than operational ones.
Exist various classifications natural lining, involving the division of lining in accordance with many characteristics. These include the quality of the finished product, the type of wood used to produce the lining, the scope of its use, and other equally relevant parameters. Let's take a closer look at the most common classifications.
Ceiling made of lining photo
The following types of wood are used to make lining:
- Precious wood species, including special attention oak and ash deserve;
- Soft species - among them alder and linden;
- Universal species - spruce and pine (the profile thickness is 12.0 x 25.0 mm, width - 90.0 x 150.0 mm and length up to 6 m).
In accordance with the scope of use, several types of lining are also distinguished:
- “Eurolining” is a type of lining, often exported to European countries and characterized by a smooth front surface and the presence of a deep tongue-and-groove system;
- “American” is a type of lining, using which you can imitate the overlap laying that is popular in America;
- “Lined panel” is a type of material, the appearance of which has obvious similarities with timber;
- “Block house” is a profile that has external similarities with rounded timber.
Another classification wood panels involves their division depending on quality:
- “Extra” - panels included in this category, are characterized high quality, absence of dark spots and knots, which determines the highest cost of the material;
- Category “A” - small knots may be found on the surface of the panels included in this group, which significantly affects the price of this material and makes it affordable for most buyers;
- Category “B” - panels of average quality, most suitable for finishing work in a country house, balcony or recreation center;
- Category “C” - low-grade panels, the surface of which is characterized by a large number of dark spots and knots.
Important! Among the variety of wooden panels, experts recommend giving preference to products made from cedar, aspen or linden. However, not only wooden, but also plastic panels can be used for ceiling cladding.
Plastic panels: brief description
The traditional classification of plastic panels involves their division into seamless panels and panels with a dedicated seam, as a result of which the ceiling surface is characterized appearance similar to wood flooring.
Important! Unlike wooden lining, plastic panels do not require additional processing, which must be carried out before or after finishing the ceiling with lining. This is due to the original practicality of plastic lining and its diversity color range, allowing you to choose a plastic lining that imitates a wooden surface.
- Seamless plastic lining characterized by the presence of a hidden tongue-and-groove system, which makes it possible to make the seams almost invisible after installing the ceiling covering. Also, in the process of producing seamless lining, the manufacturer relies on reducing the number of joints between panels, increasing their width, which is five times the width of traditional panels;
- Plastic lining with highlighted seam has external similarities with wooden lining, differing from it in that, unlike the latter, it does not require additional processing.
Important! When giving preference to plastic lining, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the main features of PVC panels:
- Despite the fact that plastic panels are designed to hide existing unevenness of the surface being finished, and therefore they bend easily, excessive stress constantly applied to the panel can lead to cracks. A damaged panel is not suitable for restoration;
- Plastic panels are moisture resistant, but ultraviolet radiation, which constantly affects the material, can cause it to fade.
MDF panels: specifics of use
There is another type of lining - MDF panels, which are lining made from fiberboard. The production of this variety is based on the method of pressing wood fiber, followed by giving the material the required shape and installing a tongue-and-groove system. If the size and shape of MDF panels are generally standard, then the color range has virtually no restrictions. The principle of covering the surface using this material is similar to that when using wooden lining. Due to the fact that one of the disadvantages of MDF panels is low moisture resistance, and constant exposure to moisture can cause their deformation and collapse, this type of lining can only be used in rooms characterized by low humidity levels and is not suitable for furnishing suspended ceilings in the bathroom or kitchen.
- Wooden lining is universal material, combined with almost any that are relevant today, finishing materials. Regarding finishing country houses, saunas and baths, in this case the lining is the material of choice for finishing activities. The owners of the apartments also have wooden lining good standing, it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, as well as for partial or complete finishing of the kitchen or living room.
- If you are seriously thinking about using wood to decorate a room and, in particular, the ceiling, read this article, which will discuss how to attach lining to the ceiling so that it is not only reliable, but also stylish and harmonious;
- The ceiling, covered with wooden lining, should organically fit into the overall interior concept, combining favorably not only with the floor and furniture, but also with home textiles. This advice will be especially relevant if you plan to decorate the interior in a classic or rustic style;
- To ensure that the surface of the ceiling covered with clapboard is not monotonous, it is recommended to install the slats in different directions, which will help create a certain pattern on the ceiling. To enhance decorativeness created effect, you can use slats or decorative beams different color;
- Suspended ceiling - perfect option for the living room. To install it, you can use not only a long board, but also ready-made modules. The panels used to install a suspended ceiling in the living room can be decorated with carvings, paintings or stained glass windows - thanks to the use modern technologies, manufacturers offer a lot of options.
What to do if you purchased wooden lining?
After you have purchased wooden lining, experts do not recommend immediately starting to install the ceiling. In connection with this, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the following tips for preserving the original quality of the material:
- First of all, it is necessary to remove the purchased lining from its packaging;
- Next, the panels are carefully laid out on a flat surface, preferably wooden boards;
- Before you begin installing the ceiling, wait the time necessary for the lining to dry completely. It is important to know that the lining needs to be dried as much as possible, which will have a positive effect on their quality. Drying of the panels must be carried out in the room where installation is planned.
Important! Experts do not recommend rushing to install the lining on the ceiling and let it dry completely. Most optimal time for complete drying of the lining, a time period of three months is considered, however, if you cannot wait too long, the time frame can be compressed to several weeks.
- Importance this advice cannot be underestimated, since ideally the humidity of the room where installation will be carried out and the humidity of the panels should match. Otherwise, failure to follow these recommendations may lead to deformation of the panels. In this sense, the practicality of MDF panels and plastic panels is much higher, since they do not require pre-drying. To install plastic lining on the ceiling, it is enough to leave it for two or three days in a heated room where the work will be carried out and feel free to begin installation activities.
Calculation of the amount of material. Required Tools
- Calculation required quantity material - the undertaking is simple, but quite painstaking, and its implementation must be carried out at the proper level. Experts advise purchasing material with some reserve so that no unpleasant surprises arise during the work process.
- First of all, decide on the direction of fastening the elements, and then display this on the drawing. He will be yours faithful assistant at correct definition and calculation of the required amount of material;
- If the area of your room is calculated according to the scheme 2.5 x 3.3 m, purchase material 3 m long and fasten it along a width of 2.5 m, trimming the material by 50 cm, which will go to waste. If you choose a different placement, you will have to sharpen part of the element, which will be noticeable upon completion of installation;
- In the process of taking into account the width of the configuration, it is important to remember the groove running along the edge of each part.
In order to make a lining ceiling with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:
- Drill, screwdriver and hammer drill;
- Hacksaw, as well as metal scissors;
- Hammer;
- Roulette;
- Construction corner and construction level;
To make a wooden frame, prepare a beam, the thickness of which is calculated based on the features of the chosen design, but its cross-section should not be less than 20 mm. In case of installation additional insulation its thickness must be added to the thickness of the timber.
Important! In case of installation of additional insulation, the material should also be taken with a reserve. During the installation process, you should not press the insulation excessively - it should be fastened freely, without additional clamping, since in the case of rigid fastening, the insulation will lose its properties.
If you plan to install a ceiling made of wooden lining on a metal profile, be prepared for the fact that the costs will increase. In addition to the main material, additional elements will be required:
- UD profile, which is fastened around the perimeter of the entire room;
- CD profile, which serves as the basis of the frame;
- Crabs, which are a cross-shaped fastener and a U-shaped fastener;
- Self-tapping screws.
Important! Despite the fact that some craftsmen prefer to fasten the lining using a stapler or nails, citing the speed of the method. However, this fastening is considered not reliable enough, and therefore experts recommend using proven self-tapping screws.
Lining the ceiling with clapboard: step-by-step instructions
Ceiling frame installation
During the installation of the frame, it is important to take your time and follow all recommendations, since if the arrangement of the elements is violated, the geometry of the entire structure will be disrupted, which will subsequently be impossible to correct.
In accordance with the instructions, first of all, find the lowest corner in the room and, adding to it the height of the beam and the thickness of the lining, put a mark on this place and transfer it to other planes in the room. To make this task easier, it is recommended to use a hydraulic level;
The resulting marks are connected with a nylon thread and the resulting level is marked on the walls in the room.
Important! If you use wood when installing the frame, pre-treat it with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from the formation of mold and rot. This work It is recommended to do this in advance, as the material must dry. The processing method, as well as its timing, are indicated by the manufacturer of the antiseptic composition on the packaging.
To ensure that the lining is attached to the ceiling, prepare a flat base surface onto which the cladding will be attached.
To do this, secure straight bars with a cross-section of 40 x 40 mm around the perimeter, constantly monitoring the water level;
To adjust them, use wooden plates of various thicknesses, which must be placed in the places where the bars are attached to the load-bearing ceiling panels;
After you have screwed in all the screws, a solid base is formed on the ceiling, which is limited by the surface of the bars;
If you are dealing with concrete floor Before attaching the paneling, take the following steps:
Install dowels 8 x 40 mm, for which you need to use a carbide drill to drill a hole 40-50 mm deep and insert the dowel. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, drill through the bars at the places where the dowels are installed;
Using a cord, mark lines on the ceiling along which the intermediate battens of the sheathing will be attached, which should be located at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other.
Important! Due to the fact that even at the installation stage facing surface There remains the possibility of an error leading to a violation of flatness and the appearance of noticeable unevenness; it is recommended to use a fishing line stretched along the marked lines. This will allow you to avoid using a building level.
To install the inside of the sheathing, you will need an assistant who will hold the bars as close as possible to the tensioned lines and, if necessary, place adjustment plates. At this time you will drill and screw the bars.
Important! If you are faced with the need for additional insulation, install block and roll lathing between the sheathing bars thermal insulation materials, over which it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier film to prevent contact of the sheathing with moisture.
Cladding the ceiling with clapboard: how to attach the facing material
- The next stage is covering the ceiling with clapboard wooden house.
- This stage is not particularly difficult, but despite this you will need an assistant. If you are using long panels, this is a must.
- Take the first panel and, placing it tightly against the wall, secure it;
- The next panel is inserted into the groove to the previous one and secured at the location of the sheathing;
- If you plan to install holes for lamps and pipes, they are drilled as work progresses, which eliminates the possibility of errors;
- If, in the process of covering the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, you manage to make fasteners where the ridge enters the groove, you will get a truly harmonious ceiling covering by hiding the screw heads;
- If you are covering the ceiling with plastic panels, all the necessary holes must be drilled in advance, eliminating the risk of damage to the surface.
Important! Make sure in advance that all communications and electrical wiring are not damaged, since dismantling the surface is highly undesirable. As fasteners, use those made from stainless materials, which will avoid the appearance of rust stains.
Important! During work, take into account the temperature and humidity of the room where installation will be carried out. In case of temperature below + 10 degrees and high humidity, it is recommended to postpone installation activities.
Today, such a finishing method as covering the ceiling with clapboard has become widespread. With the help of aesthetic, decorative and beautiful material, you can easily transform the space and refresh the room.
What is a lining
Lining for ceiling cladding is represented by thin planks with a special type of connection, when the protrusion of another element is inserted into the groove of one plank.
The variety of types and quality of the material makes it suitable for installation in rooms with different operating conditions, and you can easily cover the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands. Panels are made from:
- solid wood species;
- MDF boards;
- plastic.
For example, for a bathroom or kitchen it is preferable to install plastic that is resistant to moisture, is not afraid of fungus, and is easy to wash. Wooden slabs or MDF is better use in living rooms.
Types of construction lining
Wooden lining is a natural material (made from deciduous or coniferous species), the main quality criteria of which are:
- strength;
- hardness;
- classism;
- fire resistance.
Wooden slats are divided into several classes:
- extra class or premium. Such boards are characterized by ideal smoothness and the absence of any defects. When finishing ceilings with premium eurolining, you will not have to adjust the parts to each other;
- class A. There may be minor defects:
— slight roughness in some areas;
— small inclusions of resin on the surface;
- small non-through cracks;
- B-class. This type is characterized by the presence of a significant number of defects. The end parts may have small chips. It is better to cover the rooms of a country house, balcony or loggia with these panels;
- Class C- the lowest-grade and cheapest category of material. In this case, only rotten boards are prohibited. Ceiling cladding with class C clapboard is recommended for basements, attics or utility rooms.
Its advantages include:
- no need to carefully prepare the ceiling space for finishing;
- ease of installation will allow you to hem the ceilings with MDF panels yourself;
- ease of care;
- the variety of options for MDF slats allows you to choose suitable color or texture that will organically fit into the overall design and style of the room.
MDF lining is produced using the method of pressing wood fiber and then giving the material the desired size and shape.
Disadvantages include low performance characteristics, since over time the surface of such panels begins to crack and acquires a dark tint.
This is no less popular material than natural wood or particle boards. The production of this type of lamella is based on the extrusion method, in which a viscous polyvinyl chloride mass is squeezed out through special holes.
- from wooden beams. To do this, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room, 10-15 cm away from the wall surface. They are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws every 60 cm.
Important! The timber must be fastened perpendicular to the location of the lamellas.
The distance between the beams is 60-100 cm if wooden lining is installed, and 40-60 cm when it is planned to install plastic panels.
The bottom edges of each beam should be parallel to the floor and at the same level as the other beams. Pulling along the bottom side cross bars nylon thread, fasten the remaining beams. To strengthen the structure, lintels made of timber of the same dimensions are installed;
- from a metal profile. If such a frame is installed, then first the UD profile is attached to the dowels along a horizontal line. The CD profile is fixed on opposite sides at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall surface in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the CD profiles will be located perpendicular to the UD profile strips and the lining. The profile is fixed to the ceiling using U-shaped hangers with a distance of 40-60 cm.
Upon completion of the installation of the frame, wires are connected to the locations of the lighting fixtures using any of the methods.
Installation of lining
The first panel is fixed, pressed tightly against the wall. Next, the ridge of the next lamella is inserted into the groove of the previous one and secured with fasteners at the points of contact of the lining with the frame.
On a note! Holes for lamps are cut during the process of covering the ceiling with clapboard. Otherwise, damage may remain on it that is difficult to disguise.
Final stage
After the lining ceilings have been made, it is necessary to adjust the lamellas to length and file the corner joints. Gaps at the junction of walls and ceilings are masked with baseboards. Decorative plugs should match the color of the room's interior, so it is recommended to buy them together with the panels.
This finishing method is often used in the Provence style. Emphasizing its direction, the lining looks especially original and impressive. Designers advise applying a layer of special paint to clapboard ceilings, which gives them an aging effect.
Panels gray made of larch will highlight well, and the colorless varnish will give the coating additional shine and beauty.
If you first study the technology of how to properly cover ceilings with clapboard, then installation will not take much time and effort. As a result of the work, you will get an original and beautiful ceiling.
Ceiling finishing with clapboard video
