When starting construction on any site, you should first take care of the soil. There are many for this useful tools, which any builder knows about, including electric stove for laying soil. This unit is one of the most necessary and most appropriate in the design of any building. This tool allows you not only to level the construction site, but also to arrange garden path, create your own small recreation area around the pool or even an entire park area.
Thus, in landscape work, a vibrating plate is the most the right tool. Unfortunately, its prices are also quite high due to its good functionality, and not everyone can afford it. That's why we offer you detailed instructions with video and drawings on how to make an electric stove with your own hands.
Positive aspects of a vibrating plate with an electric motor
All vibrating plates can be divided by motor type. So, they are based on three types of devices, these are: petrol, diesel and electric. The latter have a number of advantages that make them more comfortable than the other two. However, do not forget that electric motors are more expensive.
Main advantages:
- Low noise level
- Does not generate combustion products during operation
- Has more power
Required Parts
- Gasoline or electric engine. It will be needed to create vibration. Models (IV-99E, IV-98E, and others).
- Sheet of metal 8 mm thick.
- Two Chevlers.
- Various little things: wheels, pads, pipe sections and bolts.
- Necessary tools for work: locksmith units, welding machine, Bulgarian.
How to create a vibrating plate. Step-by-step instruction
Features of operating a do-it-yourself vibrating plate
Like any complex technological device, the vibrating plate needs to be inspected before use and all safety instructions must be followed. Usually such instructions are included if you buy a tool in a store, but since we made the vibrating plate with our own hands, it is worth considering some features of the care and operation of a complex technical unit created at home.
Conclusion
A compact plate for working anywhere will become your favorite assistant for any work with the soil. With all its advantages, it is also worth noting the rather low cost of creating a tool with your own hands. In fact, everything necessary details can be found at home or in the garage, at the dacha. Yes, you will need just buy your own engine, which costs significantly less than buying a ready-made tool in a store. It is also worth noting that the manufacture of a vibrating plate with an electric motor does not require any special skills and knowledge. After all, its design is quite simple and there are no complex technical elements for assembly.
Vibrating plate is one of necessary tools in construction work. Usually purchased tools are used, but if you make a vibrating plate yourself, you can also use it to level surfaces.
A vibrating plate is necessary for compacting soil for making roads.
Operating principle of vibrating plates
This construction tool is used for vibratory ramming of various bulk materials: sand, soil, etc. Vibrating plates are often used in construction work, for compacting soil under a foundation or laying tiles.
Unlike large equipment, a vibrating plate can be used to work in difficult areas due to small sizes. Some models of vibratory rammers have reverse gear. This feature allows them to be used even in narrow pits and trenches.
The operating principle of vibrating plates is simple. The basis is a massive platform. A vibrator is attached to it, connected via a coupling and transmission to the engine.
When the engine is turned on, it begins to create rotational movements, which are then converted into oscillatory movements using a vibrator. In turn, the oscillatory movements are transmitted to the slab, and through it to the soil or other material for compaction. Under the action of the tool, the material is compacted, the particles fill all the voids. As a result, the surface is leveled and the embankment becomes very dense.
There are 3 main types of tamping machines, the main difference being the type of motor:
- diesel;
- gasoline;
- electric.
For work on private property and small construction sites the best option considered electric. Of all types of vibratory rammers, this tool has the lowest price. Specifications generally no worse than more expensive instruments.
The only drawback is the inability to work without a power source, and therefore the operating area greatly depends on the length of the cord.
The average price is a tool with a gasoline engine. The diesel vibratory rammer has one important drawback: high level noise during operation. Wherein diesel fuel costs less than gasoline.
Requirements for the tool to operate
The characteristics of a vibrating rammer depend on the quality of the material of the vibrating plate itself. Steel is used to make the frame, and steel or cast iron is used for the device plates.
A device made using cast iron stove, you need to choose more carefully: if the material is of poor quality, cracks may appear on it during work.
Size work surface determines the pressure of the plate on the surface being treated. This, in turn, determines the quality of the vibratory rammer. For example, it is better to compact the soil using a vibrating plate with a smaller surface area.
For quality work The vibration force of a tool is important. The compaction density of the surface depends on this indicator. The greater the vibration force, the better tool will cope with its task. To compact dense surfaces, you need a vibrating plate with a high vibration force.
For example, for laying tiles, the vibration force of a tool weighing 75-90 kg should not exceed 20 kN. Otherwise, the tile will be pressed too hard into the ground, and in the worst case, damage will occur. A vibratory rammer with a force rating above 10 kN is suitable for laying asphalt.
The ease of movement of the plate depends on the power of the engine. If it is powerful enough, the plate itself will move. If the power of the slab is small, difficulties will arise when working downhill, and the tool will begin to bury itself in the ground.
But the main requirement that both a plate from the manufacturer and a home-made vibrating plate must meet is mass. The maximum compaction layer and the scope of application of the tool will depend on this indicator.
Depending on the weight, tamping tools are divided into 4 groups:
- Lungs. Their weight does not exceed 75 kg. The tool can compact the surface by 15 cm. Such machines are used for laying paving slabs, polyurethane mats, as well as for landscape work.
- Universal. Weight from 75 to 90 kg. The maximum layer is 25 cm or more; they can be used for road repairs (“pothole” repairs) and laying road surfaces.
- Medium-heavy. Weight can range from 90 to 140 kg. Maximum level is already 60 cm. Area of use: laying road surfaces, backfilling trenches.
- Heavy. Weight – 140 kg or more. Used for the same purposes as medium-heavy.
When working, a special irrigation system for the work plate can be useful. The work of tools without such a system will be difficult: the slab may stick to the ground, this is especially often observed when laying asphalt.
Heavy and medium-heavy slabs can be straight or reverse. Straight lines only have the ability to move forward. Reverse ones offer the possibility of reversing, which will significantly reduce work time; if necessary, compact the area again; there will be no need to turn the tool around.
Materials and tools for assembling a vibrating plate
Assembling a vibratory rammer with your own hands allows you, first of all, to save your own money.
The design of a homemade vibrating plate is quite simple, so it can be assembled with your own hands.
To make the plate you will need a motor that will provide vibration. Of all the components that make up the tool, this is the most expensive. Area vibrators operating from a household network are quite suitable. You can choose a model that operates from a 220 V network, such as, for example, IV-99E or IV-98E.
There are 380 V models available for sale. Such a motor is also suitable for making a machine, but it is difficult to provide three-phase power on site, so it is not recommended to use it.
Gasoline engines can also be used, such as the three-stroke single-cylinder engine from Honda. An engine from an old or no longer used chainsaw is also quite suitable. A motor from a drilling machine can be used as an electric drive.
The next step is to find material for the working platform. Quite suitable steel sheet, the thickness of which should be at least 0.8 cm, weight - at least 60 kg. The sheet size should be 80x45 cm. There should be no irregularities on the surface of the sheet. If all the main parts are found, you can collect additional ones:
- plastic wheels from the trolley - 2 pcs.;
- M10 bolts;
- M12 bolts;
- channels – 2 pcs.;
- elastic cushions for the handle – 2 pcs.;
- pipe sections;
- hollow pipe – 1.2 m;
To work you will need tools:
- hammer;
- locksmith tools;
- Bulgarian;
- welding.
After preparing all the materials and tools, you can begin assembling the device.
Stages of assembling a vibrating plate
The design of the vibrating rammer is quite simple, so it can be assembled without first preparing drawings of the units and components.
The cover must be removed from the motor to adjust the vibration strength.
The edges of the slab are slightly bent inward. 10 cm before the edge you need to make 0.5 cm cuts and use a hammer to bend it 20-30 degrees. Protect the places where the cuts were made with a welding seam. This simple measure will prevent the slab from burying itself in the ground during operation.
Next, you need to weld the channels so that they do not extend beyond the edges of the surface. Correct location determined depending on the center of the working surface and the location of the engine. The channel needs to be welded efficiently, preferably using transverse lines.
Next, the engine is secured. For this purpose, holes are made in the channels. The engine is installed using a level, secured with M10 bolts (if the engine is gasoline, then M12). An eccentric is used to create vibration in the drive device.
Elastic cushions must be installed at the base of the stove, where the control handle is fixed. This will help dampen vibration and the tool will not be pulled out of your hands. Then the wheels and hollow tube are welded to make the tool easier to transport.
At this point, the assembly of the vibratory rammer is considered complete.
Some simple tips from the masters will allow you to use more efficiently homemade instrument.
In order not to feel vibration when working with a homemade tool, several rope loops are made, which are held during operation.
A homemade vibrating plate will allow you to compact the surface by 10 cm, carry out landscaping work or lay paving slabs.
To increase the efficiency of the tool, you can make a kind of irrigation system: attach a hose and a tank of water to the front part. Then the surface will be wetted, which will greatly simplify compaction.
After the tool is completely assembled, you need to check it. The fastenings must be strong and free from defects. Only in this case can the vibrating plate be turned on and tests carried out.
A homemade stove can last quite a long time, but only if the storage conditions are met. The vibrating plate must be in a clean place so that the surface does not become dirty. The tool must be checked, adjusted and adjusted before use.
A homemade stove with a gasoline engine requires more careful care: you need to regularly check the condition of the spark plugs and oil, and replace the filters. The oil is changed first after 25 hours of tool operation. In the future - after 80-100 working hours. Replacement must take place with the engine warm and switched off.
Home craftsmen perform construction works as economically as possible. In this case, a pre-assembled homemade tool helps. Components for it are usually selected from available materials. Recently, a do-it-yourself vibrating plate with an electric motor has been in demand. It is used for laying paving slabs, compacting fine soil, in the process of laying the foundation.
Main components of the vibrating plate design
Before you make a vibrating plate on your own in a garage, you will need to prepare a diagram or even draw up drawings to scale to simplify further assembly. The main components in the design are the following parts:
- frame frame;
- base metal platform;
- electric motor;
- transmission system;
- suspension;
- management block.
The base plate is selected from a thick-walled steel sheet or ductile cast iron so that there is no destruction of the material during operation. This is facilitated by the relative viscosity of the metal and minimal fragility. It is strictly forbidden to assemble cast iron of dubious quality with big amount cracks or casting cavities. When working with sand and gravel mixtures, it will be destroyed by external influences.
The thickest sheet metal will be needed to make the base and weight for the eccentric
It is important to have the correct ones initially geometric dimensions base, since if you make a vibrating plate with your own hands in accordance with this rule, the site will self-clean from soil adhesion. The area is also selected optimally, without unreasonable increase. A small working surface contributes to high-quality compaction of the site.
Popular drawings demonstrate a fairly simple design of a homemade vibrating plate with an electric motor. According to the kinematic diagram, a vibrator is based on the platform, and an electric motor is mounted above it. To connect these elements together, it is provided V-belt drive or coupling. In fact, the motor provides rotation transmitted to the vibrator, and it further forms the oscillatory process.
The resulting energy is transferred to the slab, and from it passes to the compacted soil. During compaction for laying paving slabs or for other purposes, particles of material fill the voids in the embankment. The result is a dense, even coating.
Types of vibrating plates used
Homemade designs require the presence of a power plant that provides the main work. Three types of motors are often used:
- diesel;
- petrol;
- electric 220V.
Diesel engines are appropriate when a lot of effort is constantly required. In everyday conditions they are hardly justified. Although it is not uncommon to find a vibrating plate made from a walk-behind tractor with an installed two-stroke engine.
Devices with a gasoline engine, like previous designs, are autonomous, but extremely noisy in operation. An economical engine with a power of several watts is selected for them.
The optimal solution for many is a self-assembled electric vibrating plate. It is enough to connect electricity to the place of work on the site and you can start compacting the soil. A positive factor is the absence of exhaust gases during the process.
According to classification, it is customary to divide products into several groups:
- light - weight less than 70 kg;
- universal - up to 90 kg;
- medium weight - 90-140 kg;
- heavy group - more than 140 kg.
The first group is suitable for processing local area, where it is expected to press a layer of no more than 15 cm. Universal, relevant for processing 25 cm. Heavier devices are designed for 50-60 cm.
The larger the compacted layer, the heavier the machine should be
It is important to correctly select the electric motor for the vibrating plate. After all, a too weak model on a massive slab will sink into the layers of soil. The optimal ratio is considered to be 5 hp per 100 kg of mass. or 3.7 kW.
Preparing the necessary kit
To make a vibrating plate at home or in a garage, you do not need to look for any rare or expensive parts. In the process, the following tools will be in demand:
- welding machine and a pack of electrodes 3 mm in diameter;
- half a kilo hammer;
- angle grinder with metal discs;
- kit wrenches and screwdrivers.
The components for the device will include the following set:
- An area motor with the ability to be connected to a 220 V household power supply. A new vibrator for a vibrating plate will be quite expensive, so it is recommended to purchase Soviet devices at disassembly sites or radio markets. Sometimes craftsmen even mount engines from old ones. washing machines, but the disadvantage of this method is the lack of vibration control.
- Sheet metal 8-10 mm thick. The area is selected taking into account the fact that the edges will bend. The optimal parameter for domestic conditions is 50x80 cm plus allowance for bending. You can find the sheet on metal plates.
- A pair of 80 mm channels or pieces of a building profile that will be welded across the structure. They are needed to mount and hold the electric motor.
- Metal pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. Its length is calculated based on the user's height. The optimal handle for average height is 120 cm, so you will need about 3 m of workpiece.
- A set of hardware for mounting the motor, including M10-M12 bolts, nuts for them, and always locking washers to minimize the influence of vibration.
The degree of influence of vibration on the operator can be reduced with the help of built-in additional devices. Often, automotive suspension elements are used for this. Without them, everything will also work, but the operator will get tired faster.
VIDEO: Making a vibrating plate with your own hands, step by step, with errors and their solutions
Step-by-step algorithm for assembling a vibrating plate with your own hands
At the initial stage, a base platform is prepared from metal sheet using a grinder and a welding machine. We measure 10 cm from the front and back edges and cut the angle grinder to half the sheet thickness of 4-5 mm. Using a hammer or mallet, we bend the workpiece along this line by about 30-40 degrees. Such a slide will reduce the likelihood of the platform burying in the ground, and will also allow you to move the installation in the desired direction.
The cuts should be strengthened by welding. Using electrodes, we form an internal stiffening rib that fixes the bend in the desired position. We position the channels across the stroke so that their approximate axis corresponds to the distance of the engine mounts. We weld the strips to the inner surface.
There are two ways to mount the motor. In the first case, use drilled holes in the channel for threading bolts through them. In the second case, the bolts are welded to the channels and the engine is placed on top. This method is considered more reliable, however, it requires very strict adherence to center distances.
When installing the electric motor on the site, it is worth knowing that the Soviet IV-98 models have an internal eccentric for the vibrating plate. It can be adjusted to the optimal vibration strength parameters. We tighten the nuts, having first placed the bushings under them.
The crucial step is attaching the handle. To dampen vibration on it, silent blocks from domestic or foreign cars are useful. We weld the L-shaped elements to the bent part of the platform. We put rubber elements on them, through which the handle will be connected.
At home, it is possible to assemble a model weighing 40-50 kg. This is enough to compact 10-12 cm of soil.
At long work homemade car separate parts electrical diagram may overheat, so it is necessary to use an RCD.
VIDEO: How the Germans prepare a site for laying paving slabs and paving stones
A vibrating plate is a construction tool designed for compacting soil, crushed asphalt, sand and other bulk materials. In addition, it is used when laying paving slabs and compacting soil under the foundation.
Thanks to its small size, it is convenient to use in places that are difficult to reach for large equipment.
Operating principle and characteristics of the device
The device of a vibrating plate is quite simple. A vibrator is installed on a heavy platform, on top of which the motor is located. The motor and vibrator are connected using a coupling and a V-belt drive.
Thus, the engine creates rotational movements, which it transmits to the vibrator, which converts them into oscillatory ones.
These movements are transmitted to the slab, and then to the material that is compacted; the particles begin to move and fill all the voids in the embankment.
The result is a very dense, even coating. If the vibrating plate has a reverse motion, this allows you to work in trenches and narrow pits.
The work plate can be steel or cast iron. Its characteristics depend on the quality of the material from which it is made. If the cast iron is of low quality, then when working on sand and gravel, the slab may become cracked.
The size of the surface of the work plate determines how much pressure it exerts per unit of compacted surface. How smaller area surface, the better the soil is compacted.
The vibration force determines how tightly the surface will be compacted. With the same mass, a vibrating plate with a higher vibration force will compact the surface better. Therefore, for denser surfaces, you should choose a mechanism with the highest rating.
Machines with a rating below 10 kN are not suitable for compacting asphalt. To lay paving slabs, vibrating plates weighing from 75 to 90 kg should not have a vibration force exceeding 18-20 kN, otherwise the tile will be pressed into the base and may even collapse.
Depending on the installed engine The vibrating plate can be electric, diesel or gasoline. For small construction sites or own plot The best option would be an electric vibrating plate. It is the cheapest of the three options, while the technical indicators are the same.
Its main disadvantage is the presence of an electrical network. This range of action is limited by the location of the source electric current and cord length. The gasoline engine is easy to use.
In terms of price, it is between the electric, which is cheaper, and the diesel. Fuel for a diesel engine is cheaper, but the engine itself is the most expensive. The disadvantage of a diesel engine is a lot of noise during operation.
Engine power affects the movement of the vibrating plate. The higher this parameter, the easier it is to work with the stove. The plate with a powerful motor moves itself. If the power is insufficient, the slab may bury itself in the ground, especially downhill.
The main parameter of a vibrating plate is its weight; this is what you need to pay attention to when choosing the right model and selecting components to make it yourself. According to this parameter, models are divided into four classes:
Vibrating plates differ in the direction of movement during compaction. They can be direct or reverse. Straight lines only move forward. If re-compaction is necessary, then you need to turn around and repeat the compaction, which leads to significant time costs.
Reverse motion makes it possible to reverse, therefore increasing the quality of vibratory compaction and reducing operating time. Reverse is used on slabs weighing at least 100 kg.
A useful feature for a vibrating plate is the presence of an irrigation system. Without it, the slab may stick to the ground, especially asphalt. The only thing you need to do is make sure that water does not get on the engine.
To extend the service life of the mechanism, the belts and coupling must be protected with a special casing. If there is a casing, particles of the compacted surface will not get into the mechanism, which will prevent machine breakdown.
Watch our video collection on the topic:
Assembly instructions
Making a vibrating plate with your own hands is, first of all, saving money. A finished slab is quite expensive. Finding one to rent can also be problematic. If you make your own, you can rent it out yourself. Typically, the cost of a home-made slab generally does not exceed 10-12 thousand.
A do-it-yourself vibrating plate is simple design and making it is not difficult for a person who knows how to use the appropriate tools.
First of all, in order to make a vibrating plate with your own hands, you need an engine. This is the most expensive part of the future mechanism; it is the one that provides vibration. For this purpose, area vibrators are best suited. In this case, it is advisable to choose models operating from a 220 V network, such as IV-99E and IV-98E.
Other models operate from a 330 V network, and such three-phase power supply cannot always be provided on site. The cost of such an engine will be 5,000 - 8,000 rubles. It is possible to use a three-stroke gasoline engine with one cylinder, for example, Honda. You can make a stove with an old motor removed from unused systems.
Next important detail is a working platform that requires a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 8 mm and dimensions of 80x45 cm. The surface of the platform must be flat and weigh at least 60 kg. It can be made from any large machine part.
In addition to these basic details, you will need:
- two channels to secure the vibrator to the base;
- M10 bolts for the electric motor and M12 for the gasoline motor;
- two soft elastic pillows for the handle;
- pipe sections for wheels;
- two plastic wheels from a trolley;
- a hollow pipe for making a handle, 1.2 m long.
The tools you will need are a welding machine, a grinder, a hammer and plumbing tools. Drawings for assembling a vibrating plate are usually not drawn up, since its design is quite simple. First of all, the cover is removed from the electric motor to regulate the vibration force.
To ensure that the homemade vibrating plate does not bury itself in the ground during operation, its edges must be bent. To do this, cuts are made 10 centimeters from the edge of the slab to a depth of no more than 5 millimeters. Then, tapping the edges of the hammer, you need to bend them by 25-30 degrees. To make the structure durable, a welding seam is made at the incision sites.
Next, the channels are welded taking into account the location of the future engine and the center of the plate. The edges of the channels should not protrude from the working surface. The channels must be welded very well; it is best to make transverse welding lines. Then the engine is mounted. To do this, appropriate holes are made on the channels. The motor is aligned using a level and bolted to the platform.
To dampen vibration during machine operation, elastic cushions are used, which are installed at the base of the plate at the point where the handle is attached. Thanks to the pillows, vibrations will be dampened and the stove will not be pulled out of your hands. To make it more convenient to transport the slab, a hollow pipe and wheels are welded to it, which should be easy to install and dismantle.
When working with a vibrating plate, make special loops of rope and hold on to them, thus, vibrations from the operating mechanism are not felt. To increase compaction efficiency, a tank with a hose can be attached to the front of the slab to wet the compacted surface. When installing, make sure that no water gets on the engine during operation.
Using a vibrating plate, you can compact soil or sand to a depth of 10 cm with your own hands; you can also use it to compact crushed stone.
After assembling the slab with your own hands, you should check it for damage, defects and chips, and you should also make sure that the fasteners are secure. If no defects are found, you can connect to the network and do a test compaction of the soil.
For long-term operation, the vibrating plate should be kept clean. If the surface is dirty, the motor will overheat. Tuning, adjustment and maintenance should also be carried out regularly.
If the engine is gasoline, then you must:
- Constantly monitor the cleanliness of the candles, clearing them of carbon deposits;
- monitor the oil level;
- The oil is changed for the first time after 25 operating hours, then after 80-100 hours;
- change air filters regularly;
- It is better to fill in oil when the engine is warm; when refueling with gasoline, the engine should be turned off.
Thus, it is possible to make a vibrating plate with your own hands, while you can save 10,000 rubles and enjoy your own labor.
The cost of a vibrating plate assembled independently is 10-12 thousand rubles. You can estimate how much you saved if you compare it with the cost of ready-made vibrating plates, which is shown in the tables below.
Petrol prices:
Electric cost:
| Weight, kg | Rated power, kW | Supply voltage, V | price, rub. | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| IV99B/IV99E | 4,5 | 0,25 | 550x500 |
On the farm there is often a need to compact soil or crushed stone small area. For example, you need to repair a path, raise the floor in a barn, or straighten fence posts. A hastily put together hand tamper does not last long and is usually sent along with the rest of the construction waste. Don’t waste time and effort every time, take two hours and make a good tool for compacting the soil with your own hands.
Materials used
Suitable material for homemade manual tamper– square beam with a side of 100 or 150 mm. Round log It will be difficult to work in the corners and will have to be compacted with a significant overlap of the previous impact site.
It is not at all necessary to take new lumber; a used lumber will do. The main thing is that the wood is free from rot and splits. Choose a piece of timber that you can lift. The height of the manual tamper can be waist-high or chest-high, depending on ease of use. If you have no experience working with this tool, take a longer block, try it out and shorten it if necessary.
Drawing of a manual tamper for soil compaction.
You will also need:
- A piece of 2mm steel plate.
- A round birch stick 450 mm long (an old shovel handle will do).
- Wood screws.
- Carpenter's glue.
Prepare the timber
Saw off the ends of the workpiece according to the dimensions exactly at right angles. Using a plane, adjust the plane of the lower end of the beam to a square. Remove 5 mm wide chamfers from sharp edges.
Decide how high-quality a finish you want. Before painting, the block will have to be sharpened and sanded. When beautiful view not needed, just clean the surface a little to avoid splinters.
Make a shoe
Transfer the dimensions of the workpiece from the drawing to the steel sheet.
You can simply align the timber vertically installed on the metal and trace the outline with a pencil.
Depending on the thickness of the plate, cut the workpiece with metal scissors or cut out the excess with a grinder. Remove burrs with a file, holding the part in a vice.
Mark and drill holes for the screws, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a drill of a larger diameter.
Sand the surfaces with sandpaper.
Bend the wings of the workpiece in a vice, which will be easy to do with the first two opposite sides. When bending the two remaining sides, the vise jaws may turn out to be wider than the shoe, then use a timber prepared for tamping.
Secure the shoe
Check the fit of the steel plate on the beam, if necessary, tap the metal or sharpen the wood. The shoe should fit snugly against the end on all planes.
Drill holes for screws in one wing, pointing the drill at a slight angle into the wood, and tighten the screws.
Turn the beam over to the opposite side and fasten the other wing in the same way. Make sure that the shoe does not move away from the end.
When drilling subsequent holes, guide them past the already screwed in screws.
Set the handle
Mark the drilling center at a distance of 100 mm from the top end. Select a drill bit with a diameter 2 mm smaller than the cross-section of the handle. Do through hole, perpendicular to the surface of the beam.
Even with careful drilling, the outer parts of the hole will be slightly larger than the inner diameter. Sharpen the wood with a file, periodically trying to insert the handle into place.
At the same time, correct any possible misalignment of the hole relative to the plane of the beam. Achieve a tight (but without significant force) fit of the handle, and if necessary, lightly trim the stick. Do not try to hammer into the handle - the wood may split. Place the stick in the beam and make marks.
Apply glue to the sides of the hole.
Place a pen on the marks and wipe off any excess glue. Drill a pilot hole and secure the handle with a long screw.
Photo of a homemade manual soil tamper.
After use, clean the device from dust and store it in a place protected from rain and snow. Over time, the bottom of the tamper wears out; monitor the condition of the metal lining and change it in a timely manner.
