Getting rid of ceiling seams. The junction of the wall and the ceiling: glue the plinth and molded cornice How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs: a quick way to get rid of large cracks

Does not require special skills. Laminate board - inexpensive and reliable coverage, which fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing laminate flooring is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel it swells and becomes deformed. Required condition when installing laminate boards, this is sealing the joints. In this case, it is important how to close the laminate joints.

Sealant for processing

A sealant is a special gel that is used to seal seams, gaps and joints. In this case, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant that contains silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

  • reliability;
  • long service life;
  • the ability to use a sealant at any temperature.

In addition to silicone, the sealed gel includes the following components:

  • additives: quartz flour, chalk;
  • antifungal substances;
  • dyes;
  • and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question of how to seal the joints of laminate flooring has been resolved, now you need to prepare the tools and materials for processing them.

Tools and materials

Before using the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential premises, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

  1. Silicone based sealant.
  2. Rubber hammer.
  3. Ruler, pencil.
  4. Jigsaw.
  5. Latch.
  6. Spacer wedges.

Before you begin laying laminate flooring, you must carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

  1. The base for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3-5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the interlocking joints of the panels will quickly become loose and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for dismantling and installing the laminate.
  2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. A smooth surface of the base will allow you to correctly lay the underlay under the laminate in order to protect the floor covering from moisture.
  3. The first row of panels must be laid with a deformation gap of 8 mm. This gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, the laminate “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
  4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a sealant. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After laying the laminate, all joints will be sealed.
  5. The gaps that remain in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as baseboards or thresholds. How to coat the joints between the laminate and the baseboard? You can use the same silicone-based sealing gel.
  6. If the laminate board is joined:
    • with linoleum - cover the seams with a plastic threshold;
    • with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
    • With stone surface– it is advisable to cover the joints with cork plates.

  1. Silicone-based sealant does not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
  2. If expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use sealant. The joints of this laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
  3. If a heated floor system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this covering is not removable, and if the floor heating system breaks down, you will have to remove the entire laminate. This means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for purchasing new laminate panels.
  4. Laminate flooring must be laid along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along a natural light source. Otherwise, the falling shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then installation should begin from the large window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to install a plinth with different types fastenings:

This video is about installing a flexible profile:

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideally shaped room it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to standard sizes material. The resulting seams should not only be invisible, but also durable so that the coating does not lift up over time. Special attention requires a linoleum joint between rooms, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To pick up suitable way coating connections worth considering possible options joint design and devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

There are several ways to seal linoleum joints. They differ in both the complexity of the work performed and the cost of materials and tools. At the same time, the quality of the final result will also be different.

  • Securing the edges of the cover with double sided tape. This method is good because it is cheap and easy to implement. But the reliability of connecting the joints in in this case remains in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to bristle.
  • Use of thresholds and overlays for linoleum. Another inexpensive way, while being quite reliable. The only negative is that such an element will differ from the rest of the covering and stick out slightly above the floor surface.
  • Gluing the edges with dispersion glue. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing material to a rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
  • . For a monolithic connection of coating strips, glue is used that melts the edges and, after drying, firmly fastens them together. You can work with it at home; it is suitable for both household and commercial linoleum.
  • . This is done using a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence of high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for commercial types of linoleum; it is quite complicated for independent implementation. The connection is invisible.

Let's take a closer look at how to seal joints household linoleum using decorative thresholds.

What are thresholds for linoleum joints

Threshold in the doorway connecting the joints flooring materials between rooms - simple and cheap way, allowing you to fix the edges of the covering, hide the seam and possible disadvantages installation

Advantages of the method:

  1. It is very easy to attach the threshold using the included screws or Liquid Nails glue directly to the subfloor.
  2. The pad can be used multiple times and is easy to replace.
  3. The plank will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt getting underneath it.
  4. The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Proper selection of colors makes this element almost invisible.
  5. Thresholds are carried decorative function– the design of the room will look complete.
  6. If you decide to lay coatings of different thicknesses on a single-level floor, a joint pad will help smooth out the difference between them.

But thresholds also have their disadvantages:

  1. The plank will stick out (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
  2. The threshold can only be installed in a doorway or under an arch; seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden using this method.

When installing thresholds, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the floors.

Types of thresholds

Close the joints of linoleum pieces with each other or with another floor covering You can use linings of different purposes and materials.

Depending on the design and method of application, there are the following types of thresholds:

  • Straight - for linoleum joints of the same thickness.
  • Multi-level – compensate for differences in height on the floor; with their help, coverings of different thicknesses can be joined.
  • Finishing – for sealing the edges of linoleum without joining with other materials.
  • Corner - for finishing seams and edges of flooring on stairs.

The planks are made from different materials:

  • Metal thresholds made of brass and aluminum are the most popular because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often painted bronze, gold or silver.
  • Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to design rounded joints, and the price of the products is much lower. The requirements for them are specified in GOST 19111-77, which refers to thresholds doorways for semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible plank performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the floor coverings.
  • Rubber pads can have an aluminum base and prevent slipping.
  • Wooden thresholds and MDF strips are rarely used due to their high cost and tendency to swell from moisture.
  • Cork products are popular due to their environmental friendliness, softness and long term services. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to attach overlays to coating joints

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to secure the planks. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

  • Installation with self-tapping screws is much more reliable; in products with a decorative plug, the fastening elements are not visible.
  • Glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases where the subfloor is loose and cannot hold screws.

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Today, laminate is the most relevant and popular floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical or advisable. For such rooms the best option will ceramic tile. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles differ in thickness. Therefore, they need to be laid out at the same level to achieve a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tiles so that the wood can expand or contract from different temperatures and humidity without being damaged or swelling.

Threshold installation

A convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered huge selection thresholds. They vary in material: plastic thresholds, wooden thresholds, metal thresholds or aluminum, etc. They come in different types and colors. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden thresholds

Wooden thresholds are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They fit perfectly with laminate flooring. This can be seen even from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility plastic thresholds. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden thresholds are difficult to use and require special care.

Plastic sill

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The thresholds bend well, taking the required form and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal threshold

If you want to use a more durable material for the threshold, then choose metal. Metal thresholds are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety available on the market. The metal threshold can be chosen to match the color of the laminate or tile, and you can also consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If the situation arises that the laminate and tiles are lying on different levels, then in this case you can use multi-level metal threshold, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber thresholds

Aluminum thresholds are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber thresholds are better suited. will not amount to special labor. This work can be done with your own hands and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between materials. To secure the threshold, you need to make holes in the tie for screws in advance. As a rule, they are sold complete with a threshold. It is enough to screw the threshold with screws so that it is motionless.

Fastening the thresholds

It happens that the kit does not include screws. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be secured in a different way. You need to fill the gap right away silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. To fasten the thresholds, you can use fastening strips, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the screed. It is on the mounting rails that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible threshold or molding

To close wavy joints of various materials, you can also use a flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Required additional fixation using screws. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it it is worth lowering the threshold into warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use thresholds and moldings

A threshold or molding is needed to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate, and give it an attractive appearance. appearance. The thresholds also prevent the entry of dust and moisture, which will protect your laminate from the inside. The thresholds also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

How to seal or close a joint

Regardless of what kind of ceiling is installed in the apartment - suspended ceiling, plasterboard, whether it is covered with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted, in order for it to look complete, it is necessary to carry out finishing touch- make a joint.

The gap where the ceiling meets the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself looks unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.

Methods for designing a joint

Having perfectly smooth wall and ceiling surfaces, additional design the joint may not be required if it is not required style decision rooms when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and smooth, forming a clear right angle without gaps.

Sometimes, with a perfectly even joining seam, in order to create an optical illusion and “raise” the ceiling, the upper part of the wall is painted.

If there are even small gaps, the use of special masking devices will be required at the joint. The instructions for use usually consist of simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done with your own hands.

Masking tape for stretch ceilings

The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of tension fabric is masked using a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The junction of several levels and the junction of the structure with the wall acquire a finished, neat appearance.

To do this, you will need to place a plug in the baguette slot, where, during the installation of the canvas, the and, or profile is inserted. When flooded from above, such an insert can be easily removed, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.

There are several types of plugs for suspended ceilings:

  1. To accurately connect the tension fabric and slightly curved walls, an L-shaped wall elastic profile is installed in their direction;

  1. To design the junction of the tension fabric with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, T-type plugs are used. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
  2. If it is necessary to combine fabrics of different colors and textures, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug masking such a profile is secured in a different way than described earlier.

A wide decorative border is used to contrast colors, creating a clear, noticeable boundary between the ceiling and walls.

Black or white inserts are usually used. White canvas is the most common due to the fact that its price is lower and its universal White color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.

Using a white edging, the gap between the light-colored canvas and the same wall is masked. And with the help of black, the border between two planes will be emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.

Thanks to the fact that PVC manufacturing tapes are placed in reels of 100 meters or more; products of the required length can be purchased in the store.

Fabric cord

The use of thick fabric twisted cord is alternative solution when the question arises of how to arrange the gap between tension fabric and a wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.

With this decorative element you can emphasize the transition between the ceiling and the wall, drawing attention to the structure thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric fabrics.

Important! It is necessary to ensure tight contact of the cord with the wall and edge stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be “seated” on the sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.

One of the advantages of edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to design curved elements suspended structure. And a wide choice color solutions and textures allows you to choose the design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.

Fabric cords can be plain or multi-colored, consisting of several shades with embossed braiding. They may have metal threads or rubber veins as decorative inserts.

You can choose products with a pattern of the desired theme. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitation of silver or gold threads.

Ceiling molding

You can give a finished look to the ceiling - suspended, made of plasterboard or simple, painted white - with the help of moldings, which have long become familiar. They can have different widths, materials, colors and textures.

A wide range of ceiling decor products offered by manufacturers allows you to select elements for decoration in any interior.

The term “molding” means various elements stucco moldings for decorating ceilings and walls. For an overlay profile decorating a joint, the name “ ceiling molding", "plinth" or "border".

The material used to manufacture such products can be:

  1. Wood;
  2. Polyurethane;
  3. Polystyrene;
  4. Natural gypsum.

Wood moldings

With help you can give the room respectability. This finish is appropriate in classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are installed.

The price of such products depends on the type of wood that was used to make them. For mid-price segment skirting boards, spruce, poplar or alder are used. Expensive items include products made from oak, yew or mahogany.

The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:

  1. Thanks to its natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance wooden skirting boards can be used in residential areas;
  2. Natural wood can be treated with stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
  3. If you paint the molding the same color as the walls, the ceiling will become visually higher and the room will acquire additional volume;
  4. You can make the room more compact by painting the baseboard the same color as the ceiling.

Important! It takes special skills to install wood molding correctly.

Foam molding

Foam molding is the most budget option design of the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to use, they weigh little and are easy to cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.

The disadvantage of this material, like the wood discussed above, is flammability.

Polystyrene molding

Manufactured by extrusion. Such products are distinguished by a clear relief and have a smooth matte surface. Such products are harder and more durable than their foam counterparts.

One of positive qualities This material is affordable.

The advantages of this material are that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, it is easy to cut, but it is more resistant to mechanical stress.

Polyurethane molding

Polyurethane plinth is practical to use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in its composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which allows it to be used to design semicircular structures.

Such borders can have a smooth, even surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.

Among the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:

  1. Environmental friendliness;
  2. The products do not have a specific odor;
  3. The material is non-flammable;
  4. The products are light in weight;
  5. The material is easy to install;
  6. Have a pre-primed white surface, which can be painted any color if desired. In this case, the paint is distributed evenly.

Plaster molding

Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling where it transitions into the wall, can be considered exclusive view finishing.

Not only because all parts are manufactured manually and have a high cost, but also due to some unique properties gypsum:

  1. Being natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not release toxins and do not cause allergies;
  2. Gypsum is an absolutely fireproof material;
  3. Plaster does not conduct electricity;

  1. Not afraid of temperature changes;
  2. Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. From the air he takes excess moisture, and if there is a lack of it, it gives;
  3. Each product is unique as it is created by hand. This allows us to produce moldings with the necessary, sometimes non-standard shape and width;

  1. A drawing and relief created with one’s own hand can have precise rendering of voluminous small details;
  2. With the help of gypsum cornices, you can successfully disguise not only the joint between the wall and the ceiling, but also advantageously design various kinds of technical holes, pipes, and electrical wiring;
  3. The finish is monolithic and seamless.

Gypsum stucco molding can be painted, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, and it can be coated with gold.

The video in this article will tell you how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the joint between tile and tile unnoticeable. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Plastic crosses are usually installed between them, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed and the seam is filled with a fugue. Everything is very simple. The hardest part is joining the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in corners, where different devices are used. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can be used to cover an external corner, for example, the protrusion of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from straight ones. It is also placed on an adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tiles are laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here to accurately align the cladding in planes, placing crosses between the elements.

Using Trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For external corners trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal ones it is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before moving on to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that installing trims is not only an even joint between tiles, it is a unique design approach to solving the issue of room design. A good trim, precisely matched to the color of the tile, is also an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements; it is also a decorative element in the interior.

Trimming tile edges

This is probably the most difficult option For exterior finishing corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45°. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with your own hands.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder or an electric tile cutter. A tile cutter is most effective if its design has an inclined bed. That is, ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be adjusted using inclined stops. Making a cut with a grinder is very difficult. This requires a steady hand and a keen eye. But even after that you will have to work on the end sandpaper, bring it to maximum accuracy.

The process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from the standard operation. Glue is also applied onto which the tiles are installed. The main requirement is to accurately fit the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering covering the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as for internal corners. Everything is clear with trims; special profiles are used here. The joint can also be made with a 45° cut. True, you will have to prune in reverse side, that is, with outside to the reverse. It is very important not to damage the front side of the cladding, which may make it impossible to install the tiles.

Eat old way, which masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and size of the cladding itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection had to be sealed with grout or sealed using various types of materials.

Attention! If tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlap of one element on another will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So in the bathroom, ceramic floor tiles should go behind the wall tiles. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent condensation that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles together do not always mean the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is doing the finishing. Therefore, there are various materials that can be used to hide cladding defects. And then the question arises, what is the best way to seal the joint? Basically, standard options two: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and therefore the defects. At the same time, it is installed on the finished cladding, gluing it either with liquid nails or with sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to the manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of the tiles and the bathtub from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area for water to penetrate under a plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and mildew. And it will be difficult to get rid of them.

Options to close this joint.

  • If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramic at the joint. In this case, the joint must be treated with silicone sealant before installing the curb. A plastic border is planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
  • You can also seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If this value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with polyurethane foam.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. Colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi) will not form on it.

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces and does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned. detergent, and then degrease with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave ceramic surfaces If you have a mark that cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to stick adhesive tape onto the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And this is where the sealing material should be directed. After which the tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in a soap solution. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

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