Clay soil is difficult to cultivate; such soil is not fertile and allows the cultivation of limited varieties of garden crops. It is possible to correct the situation, but it will take time and a lot of effort. There are proven methods based on removing excess moisture by changing the topography, applying fertilizers, and growing green manure.
Clay soil
Clay consists of many tiny particles that become highly compacted when exposed to moisture. The monolithic mass allows oxygen and water to pass through itself in small quantities, which is detrimental to most plants. Biological processes are inhibited in clay. Garden crops begin to wither, productivity decreases and many plants die.
Clay soil is considered to be soil that contains up to 80% clay and 20% sand. At home, it is impossible to accurately determine the percentage. An approximate analysis can be done with a simple experiment:
- In the garden, dig a hole half the depth of a spade bayonet. Take a handful of soil with your hand and knead it into dough. If the soil is dry, you need to add a little water.
- Roll out the finished mass into a sausage, then roll up a ring with a diameter of 5 cm.
If the sausage cracks when rolled into a ring, it means the soil is loamy. The absence of cracks indicates increased clay content. In order to grow garden crops on such soil, it needs to be prepared.
Clay soil has negative qualities:
- heaviness;
- conducts heat poorly;
- does not allow oxygen to pass through;
- water stagnates on the surface, which swamps the bed;
- moisture does not reach the roots of the plant well;
- Under the sun, wet clay turns into a crust, the strength of which can be compared to concrete.
All of these negative qualities interfere with the normal biological process necessary for every plant.
It is important to know! The surface of clayey soil up to 15 cm thick may contain a small amount of humus. This is more of a minus than a plus. The problem lies in increased acidity, which has a bad effect on plants.
It is possible to turn clay into fertile soil, but the work is labor-intensive and will take at least three years.
Site preparation
Water and clay form an explosive mixture, which, when hardened, differs little from concrete. Stagnation of moisture in rainy summers threatens the area with waterlogging. Nothing will grow in such a garden. Improvement begins with the arrangement of drainage. The system is designed to remove excess moisture. To figure out whether drainage is needed, conduct a small experiment:
- A hole of about 60 cm is dug in the area. The width of the hole is taken arbitrarily.
- The hole is filled to the top with water and left for a day.
If after the specified time the water is not completely absorbed, the area needs drainage.
Surface drainage
The system involves digging small trenches along the entire perimeter of the site. Moreover, they are dug at a slope so that the water is drained by gravity to a designated place, for example, a ravine.
Dig trenches along paths, along the perimeter of beds, lawns, and recreation areas. Drainage trays covered with gratings are laid around buildings. All surface drainage is connected into one system, which can drain water into wells.
Deep drainage
Heavily flooded areas with high groundwater levels require deep drainage. The principle of the system is the same, only instead of the usual small grooves, perforated pipes - drains - are buried deep in the ground. Mains are usually laid to a depth of 1.2 m. The pipes are connected to storm drainage trays, surface drainage trenches and drainage wells. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their installation and the composition of the soil, but not more than 11 m.
To improve drainage in a heavily flooded area, it is optimal to arrange a combined drainage system, consisting of a surface and deep system.
In addition to arranging drainage, they are improving the relief in the clay area. They try to raise beds, flower beds, and vegetable gardens by adding soil. Water will drain faster from higher ground.
Fertilizer application
Clay soil is infertile. Mineral fertilizers will not help here. Only organic matter will help. Sand will help loosen the soil, and liming can reduce acidity.
Peat with manure
Improving clay soil begins with the addition of manure or peat. Organic matter is added at the rate of 2 buckets per 1 m2 of garden. The earth is dug up to a depth of 12 cm. Over time, earthworms and beneficial microorganisms will breed in this layer. The soil will become loose and moisture and oxygen will begin to penetrate inside.
Attention! Only rotted manure is used, otherwise the roots of the plants will burn. Peat should not have a rusty tint. This indicates large iron impurities that have a bad effect on vegetation. Before adding to the soil, the peat is well ventilated.
Sawdust
Sawdust is considered a good organic matter and perfectly loosens the soil. However, during decay, they pull nitrogen from the soil, reducing its fertility. The problem can be corrected by wetting the sawdust before adding it to the soil with a urea solution. The fertilizer is diluted with water to a concentration of 1.5%.
Advice! Wood chips soaked in pet urine that have been used as bedding work best.
Sawdust is added at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2 of garden. The earth is dug up to a depth of 12–15 cm.
Sand with humus
Sand will help loosen clay soil. However, it is not fertile in itself. Sand is added with humus. This needs to be done every fall. The amount of sand depends on what crops will grow in the garden bed. Let’s say that to grow vegetables and flowers, 1 m2 of land is covered with 1 bucket of sand. When growing cabbage, apple trees, and beets, the amount of sand per 1 m2 is reduced to 0.5 buckets. In at least 5 years, the thickness of the fertile layer will reach 18 cm.
Important! Sand with humus must be added annually. The beneficial substances from the humus of the plant will be taken away and must be replenished. The sand will settle within a year. If you do not add a new portion, the soil will again become clayey and heavy.
Soil liming
Liming the soil helps reduce acidity and increase fertility. This is done in the fall once every five years. Slaked lime is added to the soil to reduce acidity, and chalk helps increase fertility, as it contains a lot of calcium. The addition of wood ash, dolomite flour and ground limestone shows good results. The amount of substances applied depends on the composition of the soil. This cannot be done at random. A preliminary analysis is required.
Growing green manure
Annual plants called green manures are well suited to fertilize the soil. They are sown before planting vegetables or after harvesting. Young greens are mowed, but not removed from the garden, but dug up with soil. The most common green manures are:
- Rye. Sow in August after harvesting. Greens can be dug up late in the fall or in the spring before planting.
- Clover. The site cannot be used for planting garden crops for three years. Clover is mowed annually and the green mass is left to lie in the garden. In the third year, the plot is dug up to a depth of 12 cm. The clover roots will also rot and become additional fertilizer.
- Phacelia. Sow in spring after snow melts. At least a month after germination, but three weeks before planting, the green mass is mowed. The garden is dug up to a depth of 15 cm.
- Mustard. White mustard is considered green manure No. 1. It is sown in early spring and mowed when the seedling height reaches 10 cm. It can be sown in August after harvesting vegetables, and mowed in the fall before frost. The soil with green manure is dug up to a depth of 12 cm.
Empty areas of the garden can be planted with ground cover plants. In hot weather, they will prevent overheating of the soil, retain moisture and become an organic fertilizer in the future.
Gardeners adopt the experience of the older generation and often use traditional methods of improving clay soil. Here are a few of them:
- Large clods help improve the structure of the soil. In the fall, the site is not interrupted with a walk-behind tractor, but dug up manually with a shovel. Large clods of earth retain snow in winter and warm up better in spring. Fertility will not increase, but the soil will become more pliable in processing.
- The clayey area cannot be dug deeper than 25 cm. This will not make the soil looser. As the depth increases, the properties of the clay become even more pronounced.
- Using mulch on the beds gives good results. Straw, sawdust, leaves or pine needles are spread on the ground around garden plantings. Mulch prevents rapid evaporation of moisture and the formation of crust on clay soil. The thickness of the mulch depends on the material used and is a maximum of 5 cm. In the fall, it is dug up with soil in the garden bed to obtain organic fertilizer.
Advice! It is easier to dig up clay soil in dry weather. It is difficult to work with wet clay, plus you will end up with lumps that are difficult to break after drying in the sun.
Recently, gardeners have begun to adhere to an innovation that involves partial improvement of the soil. The area with clay soil is not dug up and fertilized, but only the beds where garden crops are supposed to be planted.
If all else fails
If work to improve clay soil is unsuccessful, do not abandon the site. Even on such land you can grow useful crops:
- from flowers you can plant peonies, aconite, Volzhanka;
- among garden crops, many varieties of strawberries, cabbage, salads, and peas take root well;
- Among the fruit crops that grow on clay are currants, plums, cherries, and grapes.
It all depends on the varieties of each crop. Those plants and trees that can withstand a lack of oxygen and high humidity will grow on clay.
Rich soils are like a kind of sponge: they retain water and nutrients, and then release them in portions to plants and beneficial soil organisms, and also contain quite a lot of air. Fertile soil provides the roots with a comfortable thermal regime and favorable acidity; it has a better structure and is not so prone to compaction.
The fertility of the soil is largely determined by the content of organic matter in its upper layer. It consists of the remains of roots and above-ground parts of plants, the results of the vital activity of soil animals and microorganisms, and most importantly, humus, a mass of dark-colored organic substances with which the soil is saturated.
Everyone knows the most fertile soil types are chernozems. They contain a lot of humus and basic nutrients, and the top layer, rich in organic matter, can be more than 1 m thick. These soils quickly warm up and cool slowly, and due to their lumpy and granular structure they retain looseness, air and water permeability, and retain moisture well.
However, if your plot is located in a non-chernozem zone, this does not mean that you will not be able to grow anything on it. The experience of many summer residents shows that poor soil can be successfully improved and cultivated. There are different ways to deal with this.
Add black soil?
Many summer residents are obsessed with the idea of bringing black soil to the site and spreading it in a layer on top of the poor soil. If you really find real black soil, and not waste soil, peat or sludge from urban wastewater treatment plants, then there will be an effect. But temporary - for 3-4 years. And then nature will take its course: the bulk chernozem soil will gradually be washed away, decompose and disappear. In addition, high yields can be obtained without it!
Our information
Chernozems are formed in forest-steppe or steppe conditions and exist only in places with a certain climate, where grasses dry out every summer, and their roots then decompose in the presence of calcium. Alas, after plowing, chernozem turns into an artificial environment for growing plants and degrades over time.
Scientists have found that transporting chernozem over a distance of more than 100 km is unprofitable.
Fertilize with manure?
Bovine
The popular barn fertilizer does not contain many nutrients, but is very rich in microorganisms (both beneficial and pathogenic) and weed seeds. Therefore, fresh cow dung needs to be processed into humus (see below). Fresh manure can be applied directly to the soil only long before planting, for example in the fall, by incorporating it into the ground.
Used barn litter is valuable future fertilizer.
Pork
Pig waste cannot be used fresh due to the presence of pathogens in it, and its acidity is higher than that of manure from other animals. Although pig manure contains a lot of nitrogen and phosphorus in forms available to plants. In this regard, pig manure needs proper composting, after which it can also be safely applied.
Horse
Compared to cow manure, horse manure is richer in nutrients. In addition, it quickly decomposes, releasing a lot of heat, which is why it is called hot and is used to prepare warm beds. Horse manure is dry, contains a lot of fiber, and thus helps maintain the integrity of the soil structure. When rotted, it is well suited for mulching. You can mix it with other types of manure and compost it.
Make humus!
Rotted manure with peat is an excellent organic fertilizer. It can be safely used both for continuous application (approximately 20 kg/10 m2) with embedding in the soil, and for spot application - in planting holes or furrows (5 kg/10 m2). On sandy soils, manure is buried deeper (up to 30 cm) than on clay soils (15-20 cm). By adding mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen and phosphorus, we can significantly increase the effect of organic matter.
How to prepare humus?
Fresh manure should be placed in a compost bin in the form of a “layer cake” with peat (in proportions from 1:1 to 4:1) with the addition of lime or phosphate rock. The thickness of each layer is 25-30 cm. The contents of the heap are moistened as necessary, without allowing them to dry out. During composting (six months to a year), pathogenic microflora and some weed seeds die. It is undesirable to use sawdust for composting, as this results in the loss of valuable nitrogen.
Attention!
If you simply leave manure in a pile for storage, it will decompose badly inside and not dry out on the surface. As a result, the fertilizer will lose its beneficial properties and nutrients. If storage is necessary, manure is placed in piles 1.5–2 m wide and 1.3–1.5 m high and covered with earth or peat 20 cm thick on top.It is not enough to improve the soil; you need to maintain fertility. But for this there is no longer a need to purchase truckloads of manure or peat. Details in the next issue.
We improve heavy soils.
Loosening and aeration of heavy soils has a beneficial effect on the harvest, so clay soils need our help and thanks to this very help we will turn them into fertile ones.
In general, heavy soils are soils that have a high clay content, feel a little greasy to the touch, and produce a shiny surface when you run your finger over it. You can form various figures from it and they will not fall apart. Congratulations, you have clay soil. Although it is rich in nutrients, it, unfortunately, cannot boast of moisture and breathability. In rainy weather, it is better not to walk on it, much less process it, since when wet it is sticky and heavy and also forms dense clumps. And, on the contrary, in a dry form it is simply a nightmare - it can be hard as a stone and with the appearance of cracks.
But it doesn’t matter, the main thing is the land and it can be improved. Due to poor air permeability, the biological activity of these soils is very low. Microorganisms in this soil not only do not have enough air, but sometimes they also lack heat. There are two ways to improve this whole picture:
Mechanically - by loosening and adding sand. This gives the soil more air and thus it will warm up better.
Organically - by introducing organic substances, which also improves breathability and enriches with nutrients.
The first way is good in the fall - when digging and loosening the soil (yes, I know how hard it is), add additives such as mature beam, compost, sand or synthetic substances (they can be purchased in specialized stores). It is also recommended to sow green fertilizers. (see article Green manure) with deep roots, such as clover, lupins or a mixture of legumes and grasses. Leave green fertilizers over the winter so they freeze, and dig it all up in the spring. This will give us not only aeration of the soil but also fill it with organic matter.
Nothing is better suited for improving heavy soils than loose compost (see article compost), which is prepared from garden waste, and not mature compost can be used as mulch (see article preparing mulch). Spread the mature compost over the surface and add it to the soil by digging. This will give us loosening, aeration and fertilizer for the soil.
So, the best time to improve the soil is in the fall. Put in order the beds and flower beds where we will improve the soil. We remove all weeds, loosen the soil with a pitchfork at least 20 cm, then scatter or distribute compost 10 cm thick on the surface and sprinkle rock flour on top in a thin layer. Then cover it with a thick layer of leaf mulch for the winter. Next year we plant potatoes in these places, they will loosen the soil, and as soon as we harvest, we plant green fertilizer.
Or you can make an alternative way to improve the soil:
Autumn application of sand, lava granules or synthetic flake mixtures improves breathability. Lupines used as green fertilizer will provide the soil with deep loosening and enrich it. In the meantime, while your soil is preparing and has not yet become fertile enough, plant vegetables in high beds.
Well, since I mentioned additives to heavy soils, let’s briefly explain what’s what:
Leaf compost is an organic amendment; slightly sour; when using, add rock flour, carbonated lime, horn flour; aerates the soil.
Compost is an organomineral additive; fertilizes the soil, making it looser and more crumbly; it needs to be spread out in a layer of 1-5 cm, applied superficially to the soil; suitable for mulching.
Mature beam – organic additive; decayed cow or horse manure; Straw and flour from rocks should be added to fresh manure, left for a year and only then used.
Peat is an organic additive; slow growing natural product; loosens and oxidizes the soil; To protect the environment, it is better not to use this additive.
Chaff or pods are an organic additive; breakdown product of spelled, rice or oats; quickly decomposes in soil; loosens and aerates; contains few nutrients; apply to the soil.
Lava granules are a mineral supplement; crushed volcanic rock; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes, loosens; apply to the soil or mulch.
Rock flour is a mineral supplement; rock ground to a powdery state; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes; Apply a thin layer.
Coarse sand – mineral additive; improves water permeability; it is always necessary to add additional organic matter; Do not use fine sand as it compacts the soil.
Lime is a mineral additive; fertilizer that facilitates the supply of nutrients to plants; increases the acid balance of the soil, neutralizes acidic soils and activates microflora.
I hope this information will be more than enough to get you started. Therefore, you can safely begin hostilities. The main thing to remember is that it is best to mulch the soil in the spring and loosen it in the fall. And in your gardens, heavy soils will be light and fertile. Good luck to you.
Not every summer resident can boast of rich harvests. After all, in addition to regular care, it is important to plant plants in fertile and breathable soil. And to achieve such a condition of the soil, you need to make a lot of effort. You will learn from this material how to make the soil at your dacha fertile and loose.
Checking the composition
Before choosing a way to make the soil loose and fertile, it is important to know the initial state of the soil. Of course, it is better to examine the soil in an agricultural laboratory, where they will conduct a full analysis. But, alas, such testing is not available to most summer residents.
Do not be upset, because the mechanical composition of the soil, which is responsible for the amount of moisture and air in the soil, can be found out independently. To do this, moisten the soil with water and try to roll it into a “sausage”. Decoding the results:
- If the “dough” does not knead and falls apart, then your soil is sandy loam, that is, too light.
- If you managed to make a “sausage”, but it breaks, it means you have light loam – the best type of soil.
- If you rolled the “sausage” into a ring, then you have heavy clay soil.
Owners of light loams only need to fertilize the plot to get a good harvest. Owners of plots with heavy clay soil will have to correct its composition, because in such soil plants take root poorly and it is difficult for their roots to develop. But too light soil - sandy loam - has a bad effect on the harvest. In such soil, moisture and minerals are quickly washed out, so crops require more care.
Changing the mechanical composition of the soil
First, let's figure out how to make the soil loose if it is too clayey. In this case, river sand in the amount of 21 kg per square meter will help you. This is approximately 1.5 buckets with a volume of 10 liters. Distribute the sand evenly over the surface of the soil, then dig the area to a depth of 20–25 cm, or to the full length of a shovel. If you want to correct sandy loam, add clay to it. In addition, use black soil or humus for these purposes.
Even if you corrected the mechanical composition of the soil, it did not become more fertile, because the soil still needs to be fertilized. You will learn how to do this further.
Fertilize with manure
Adding animal waste to the soil is an effective way to make the soil on a site fertile and loose. After all, such “products” contain a full range of vitamins and nutrients necessary for plant growth. Moreover, pig, horse or cow manure can be used as fertilizer.
Remember that fresh manure is quite aggressive and dangerous for plants. Therefore, apply this product at least 6 months before planting. For example, in the fall after digging, but only on an empty plot. During this time, the aggressiveness of the manure will decrease, while all nutrients will dissolve in the soil. In addition, the product will serve as an excellent leavening agent.
If the manure is rotted, then it can be applied during spring planting. Fertilizer rate:
- Fresh horse - 5-6 kg, rotted - 2.5-3 kg per 1 sq. m landing.
- Fresh cow - 4-5 kg, rotted - 2-2.5 kg per 1 sq. m landing.
Do not apply fresh pig manure under any circumstances, even when planting in the fall. This product contains a large amount of nitrogen in ammonia form. Therefore, keep it for at least a year until it completely rots. In addition, try to mix such fertilizer with cow or horse manure.
Humus
Applying fertilizer prepared from rotted manure and peat is the best method for making the soil fertile and loose. Moreover, such a composition is suitable for continuous application and spot application. And if you add nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers to it, you will significantly increase its effectiveness.
The main thing is to prepare the humus correctly. To do this, place fresh manure and peat in layers in a compost bin in a ratio of 1 to 1. The thickness of each layer should reach 25–30 cm. To reduce the acidity of fertilizers, add phosphate rock or lime flour to them. Moisten the pile as needed without letting it dry out. Maintain humus for 6 months to 1 year.
How to fertilize the soil with the composition? Add 20 kg of humus per 10 square meters. m plot. Incorporate the fertilizer into clay soil to a depth of 15–20 cm. If you have sandy soil, then dig in the mixture to a depth of 30 cm.
Mulch with grass clippings
This method of making the soil fertile and soft is quite effective. Plus it's safe. True, the effect of mulching the soil with grass occurs a little later than that of fertilizing with manure. But at the same time, the layer perfectly retains moisture in the soil, also makes the soil loose and soft and protects plants from pests and diseases.
How to mulch a surface? Place the grass clippings on the area in a layer of 7–8 cm. For 20 square meters of planting, you will need 1 standard bale of straw.
Owners of light loams and sandy loams can resort to such fertilizers at any time of the year. If you have heavy clay soil, then mulch the surface from the beginning of June. Otherwise, the soil will not warm up and dry out in early spring. Leave the grass clippings until next season, and after a few years the clay will gradually turn into loose, light loam.
Green manure - gardener's assistants
If you are looking for a way to make the land fertile without manure, then pay attention to useful plants, such as:
- lupine;
- peas;
- alfalfa;
- legumes;
- oats
The roots of these plants contain nodule bacteria that can draw and fix nitrogen from the air. Therefore, by sowing green manure, the soil is naturally filled with nutrients and beneficial substances. In addition, crops have a powerful root system, which loosens the soil, making it more breathable. And this is very useful for peaty or clayey soil.
Green manure
It is not necessary to buy expensive fertilizers to make the soil fertile and light. After all, you can prepare effective fertilizer yourself. Moreover, any plant material that you find on the site is suitable for its creation. And this is mown grass, withered leaves and flowers, shoots left after pruning trees and even weeded weeds. The main thing is that the plant residues are not diseased, pest-damaged, or treated with herbicides.
How to prepare fertilizer:
- Fill the barrel 2/3 full with chopped plant parts.
- Fill the mixture with water to the top and cover with film. At the same time, make 2-3 holes in it for gas exchange.
- Infuse the fertilizer for 7–10 days, remembering to stir daily.
Strain the resulting solution and dilute it with water in a ratio of 1 to 10. After this, water the beds. This fertilizer is good because it is instantly absorbed by plants; moreover, it reduces soil acidity and protects crop roots from pests and diseases.
Influencing soil acidity
According to the reaction, the soil can be alkaline, acidic and neutral. Moreover, the latter option is most preferable for plants. And crops take root worst of all in acidic soil. How to fix this situation? Add substances containing calcium to the soil:
- dolomite flour;
- slaked lime.
The amount of such fertilizers depends on the level of acidity. To find out, buy a special device that shows the pH level. For strong acidity (less than 3.5), add 300 g of the substance per 1 square meter. m, medium (3.6-4.3) - 200 g, weak (4.4-4.9) - 100 g.
Now you know how to make the soil in your garden plot soft, loose and fertile. Apply these simple rules, and a good harvest is guaranteed.
ONE OF THE CONDITIONS good health of plants, and therefore a high yield of vegetables - fertile soil. And if the land on the site is poor, it must certainly be made rich. It just takes more than one year.
However, using old and modern methods, you can quickly create ideal soil: loose, well-retaining water, saturated with nutrients, many beneficial organisms, not clogged with weeds and plant debris.
THE OLDEST WAY improve the balance of moisture and air, as well as replenish the supply of nitrogen and biologically active substances in the soil - add rotted manure, peat or compost. But the shortage and high price of traditional organics hinder its widespread use. In addition, manure, especially fresh manure, is a source of pathogens and weeds, and peat must be neutralized with lime and thoroughly mixed with the soil: delicate roots react poorly to excess acidity and, with insufficient watering, die, crushed by lumps of peat. Therefore, manure, peat and compost are usually added to holes or furrows before planting seedlings or sowing seeds, only locally improving the fertility of the area.
FERTILITY OF THE WHOLE BED or a vegetable garden can be increased with the help of green manure - plants specially sown for embedding into the soil. Cold-resistant crops - rye (cut after 25-35 days at a plant height of 15-20 cm), oats, rapeseed, mustard, oilseed radish, rapeseed, pelyushka (after 1.5-2 months, at the time of mass flowering), winter vetch and The spring crop is sown as soon as the soil has ripened after the snow melts, or in mid-August - in the beds vacated after harvesting. Amaranth, seradella, annual lupine, and calendula are placed in the garden bed when the soil warms up to 10°. Green manure is planted into the soil to a depth of a maximum of 15 cm.
To increase the thickness of the root layer in the garden bed, I recommend alternating the sowing of dicotyledonous (with a tap root) and monocotyledonous (with superficial, fibrous roots) plants over time: the roots form a capillary network through which moisture can pass deep and accumulate in the soil.
SAVE mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil without compacting it and protecting it from erosion, overheating or hypothermia, a layer of plant material 3-5 cm thick. Mown grass, cut stems of lupine, sweet clover, nettle, hay, straw, flax fire, weathered sawdust, buckwheat and sunflower seed husks, remains of corn stalks and cobs, fallen leaves, paper shavings, shredded bark. However, these materials are mainly composed of cellulose, and the bacteria that feed on it steal nitrogen from the plants. In addition, harmful microorganisms overwinter on mulching plant debris. Mulch also prevents the soil from warming up in the spring, the uniform sowing of seeds, especially small ones, and the uniform emergence of not only weeds, but also cultivated plants. That is why it is recommended to remove mulch from the beds in the spring. The peasants, since they did not have modern technology, staged fires - they set fire to the stubble. Today this technique is prohibited, since it has been established that fire not only threatens rural houses, but also reduces the content of available nitrogen and destroys beneficial microflora and fauna in a 5-centimeter layer of soil.
MORE EFFECTIVE treating the surface of the beds with a biodestructor - a preparation that contains a complex of soil cellulose- and lignin-destroying, nitrogen-fixing, lactic acid and other beneficial microorganisms. The biodestructor accelerates the decomposition of plant residues, making the soil looser. Beneficial microflora accumulates nitrogen in the soil, converts poorly digestible soil phosphorus and potassium into accessible compounds, and enhances the formation of active humus. They suppress the development of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, nematodes, stimulate the development of beneficial soil microflora, plant growth and their resistance to stress, protecting the garden from infections. The addition of humates to the biodestructor will enhance the effect of creating “healthy soil”.
Although biodestructors make it possible to reduce the dose of fertilizers, without the latter it will still not be possible to make the soil fertile.
We add large doses (6-9 g/sq. m) of the missing nutrients in the fall (for the main treatment of the area). In the spring, we need starting doses of fertilizers, which we apply simultaneously with loosening the soil. I advise you to give preference to granular and soluble fertilizers, including those with microelements. You won’t be able to cover them evenly with a shovel, and the work is hard. In a small garden bed, I recommend using a hand-held loosening tool. If an area of more than one hundred square meters is being cultivated, electric and gasoline cultivators will provide high-quality processing.
BY COMBINING THE ABOVE, YOU CAN RETURN FERTILITY TO THE BEDS IN “FIVE STEPS.”
1 . In the spring, we fill the “bare” beds with starter fertilizer and fill them with green manure, and water the mulched ones with a biodestructor.2 . At the appropriate time, we cover the plant mass while simultaneously cultivating the soil.
3 . After a week, we water it with a biodestructor, fill the furrows and holes with humus or compost and sow the seeds.
4 . When the shoots sprout, we loosen the row spacing, apply the microbiological preparation again, and mulch the beds.
5 . After harvesting, we sow or loosen green manure, apply basic fertilizer, cover the beds with mulch and water with biodestructor and humates.
