Eh... How many of them my father remade in his time! For every taste and for any purpose. Both for raking out ash and for grain and flour. I remember he did it without welding and without a drill and without bolts. Hands grew from that place...
I would like to offer several of the most popular options.
Option for a scoop for removing ash. Any metal with a thickness of about 2 mm is taken as the starting material. It can be galvanized or simple wire rod and aluminum. What is at hand in one word. The picture shows approximate calculations. Typically the size of the scoop should fit in the furnace vent.
We cut the metal according to the template, bend it and secure it with rivets. The handle is made from the same material. We bend it for greater stability, as shown in the figure, and at the place of attachment to the scoop, we rivet it a little - to capture most of the scoop. We attach either with rivets or bolts.
Option two is a grain scoop.
Typically, scoops for grain, flour and other bulk products are made in this form. That is, rounded. It's easier to make them.
But again, metal is needed. Although nowadays it can be replaced with plastic, in those days it was not.
So, use a jigsaw to cut out a semicircle from the board. As a handle, you can choose either wood or any other material, such as a PVC pipe of a suitable size. We attach the handle to the base, and cut out the scoop itself from metal, which we nail or take with screws to a semicircle from the board. That's it - the scoop is ready.
Well, another option is modern.
It can be used everywhere except elevated temperatures and various chemistry. And you can make it from plastic canisters with a similar configuration.
How to make a tin dustpan with your own hands, the necessary equipment for cleaning premises. Inexpensive homemade thing will bring a lot positive emotions while using it.
Consider a design consisting of only two parts:
Scoop bucket
pen
LADLE
Let's cut out the figure shown in the figure from thin galvanized steel
The dotted line shows the places of bends, their radii, directions and angles.
Punch holes in the teeth or drill them with a drill. We bend the metal along the bend lines on the beam and beat it with a mallet (a flat wooden hammer) and get a scoop bucket.
If you make a false seam on the top edge of the scoop, from the side where the handle is attached (this will give the structure additional rigidity),
then on the development it is necessary to add an additional sector with a length of 200 (mm) and a width equal to the length of the seaming line.
In the figure, the additional sector is indicated in blue.
PEN
Let's make it out of wooden block size 25x25x200 (mm). Secure the block with its sharp edge facing up. We plan the sharp edge of a wooden block. Install the block with the next sharp edge facing up. In this way we process four edges and get a regular hexagon. Sandpaper smooth out the sharp edges where the hand is located. Let's cover it with protective decorative coating on wood.
Alternatively, you can use a handle from .
Assembly order:
1. We connect the edges obtained after bending.
2. Screw the handle to the curved triangles of the hexagon.
A dustpan for cleaning up garbage - it would seem that it could not be simpler. But no, and this elementary product has its own problems. In stores, scoops are sold in plastic (one-piece stamped) and with a metal scoop and a wooden handle. Both of them are not reliable: they break along the jumper at the junction of the handle with the vertical rear wall of the bucket. If you inadvertently press the scoop a little harder to the floor, a crack will form in the plastic, and plastic deformation will form in the metal bridge. Over time, defects accumulate, resulting in failure.
I, like many others, did not escape this trouble. Having “buried” a dozen purchased scoops, I decided to make my own - durable, reliable and technologically advanced. The result was a scoop consisting of 3 parts: a handle, a bushing and a bucket.
Handle - wooden; I turned it from an aspen blank on a lathe. (However, about lathe loudly said. It’s just that in my small home workshop there is a device based on an electric drill for turning small wooden parts.) After production, I sanded it and coated it with furniture varnish. The handle turned out beautiful and comfortable.
The bushing and bucket were made of sheet steel 0.5 mm thick, followed by painting with nitro enamel (or you can use galvanized roofing iron). A thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal: it is sufficient to ensure the necessary rigidity of the entire structure, and on the other hand, it makes it quite easy to perform bending operations when forming parts.
1 - handle (pine, birch, aspen...); 2 - bushing (steel, sheet s0.5 - 0.6); 3 - ladle (steel, sheet s0.5 - 0.6); 4 - rivet (3 pcs.); 5 - stopper (screw 3×10)
a, b - front leg of the bushing; c - bucket side; g - castle; d - rear outer wall of the bucket; e - rear inner wall of the bucket; g - the base of the bucket; and - flanging; j - rear legs of the bushing; l - bushing body; 1 - bushing; 2 - assembled scoop; 3 - bucket formation
Attaching the bushing to the bucket(a - inside view; b - rear view)
To make the bushing, a steel mandrel with a diameter of 20 mm was used, the connection was made with a simple rebated seam. I cut the lower end of the bushing at a length of about 35 mm into 4 legs: one (front) approximately 20 mm wide, the rest (rear) narrower (10 - 11 mm). These paws are playing main role in ensuring the strength and rigidity of the connection between the bushing and the bucket.
Making a bucket should be done in the following sequence:
Mark the contour and bend lines according to the development drawing and cut the workpiece from a 0.5 mm steel sheet;
Bend the flanges “and” 180°;
Bend the rear inner walls “e” of the bucket upward by approximately 75 - 80°;
Bend the sides “b” perpendicular to the base “w” of the bucket;
Bend the lock “g” upward by 85 - 95°;
Bend the rear outer wall “d” perpendicular to the base, covering the halves of the rear inner wall “e” with the lock “g”;
Place the tab “a” of the bushing under the lock, and the tabs “k” from the outside to the back wall of the bucket;
Press the lock together with the legs against the back wall and hold it in a compressed position using clamps;
Drill 3 holes in place for the rivets and use them to connect the bushing to the bucket.
The bushing's legs, wrapping around the back wall of the bucket on both sides, provide rigidity to the connection and prevent the occurrence of plastic residual deformations here. The result is the necessary strength and durability of the product.
One of the scoops I made is on garden plot, and I use it if necessary even when executing earthworks. Purchased ones with such “cruel” treatment would have died long ago. And this one is alive and well!
L. STEPANOV, Istra
How to make a tin dustpan with your own hands, the necessary equipment for cleaning premises. An inexpensive homemade item will bring a lot of positive emotions while using it.
Consider a design consisting of only two parts:
Scoop bucket
pen
LADLE
Let's cut out the figure shown in the figure from galvanized sheet steel GOST 14918-80
The dotted line shows the places of bends, their radii, directions and angles.
Punch holes in the teeth or drill them with a drill. We bend the metal along the bend lines on the beam and beat it with a mallet (a flat wooden hammer) and get a scoop bucket.
If you make a false seam on the top edge of the scoop, from the side where the handle is attached (this will give the structure additional rigidity),
then on the development it is necessary to add an additional sector with a length of 200 (mm) and a width equal to the length of the seaming line.
In the figure, the additional sector is indicated in blue.
PEN
Let's make it from a wooden block measuring 25x25x200 (mm). Secure the block with its sharp edge facing up. We plan the sharp edge of a wooden block. Install the block with the next sharp edge facing up. In this way we process four edges and get a regular hexagon.
how to make a tin scoop
Use sandpaper to smooth out the sharp edges where the hand is located. We will cover it with a protective decorative coating for wood.
Alternatively, you can use the handle from a blueberry harvester as a base.
Assembly order:
1. We use steel rivets to connect the edges obtained after bending.
2. We screw the handle with self-tapping screws and a press washer to the curved triangles of the hexagon.
3. Use sandpaper to smooth out the sharp edges on the metal.
Having an idea of how to make a tin scoop with your own hands, you can improvise and make a product of various shapes and sizes and for various purposes.
Advice:
For product large sizes, it is necessary to replace the false seaming with a wire one.
Do this on three sides of the ladle (on top of the ribs).
It is better to punch holes for rivets on a bent part.
Technology 5th grade
““Modeling an apron” 5th grade” - Artistic modeling. Applying the names of parts. Modeling the bib. Types of finishing. The process of creating clothes. Studying the material. Drawing of the base of the apron. Strap. Familiarize yourself with artistic design techniques. Repetition of covered material. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bottom of the apron. Fixing the material. Safety rules when working with scissors.
"Embroidery" 5th grade - Types of embroidery. Smooth surface. Five. Routing. History of embroidery. Embroidery. Physical education break. Your mood. Image. Magic chest. Get acquainted with the history of embroidery. Safety precautions. The young girl is not big, but she dresses the whole world. Counted embroidery. Safety precautions when working with an iron. Hand tools and materials.
“Natural fibers” - The finished fabric is dyed or printed with a design. Packaging in bales (pressing). The basis. Sewing materials science. In the spinning shop, threads are drawn and twisted from the roving. Carding shop. Pre-cleaning. Classification of natural fibers. How is the fabric obtained? Tape shop. Get yarn. Edge. A thin thread obtained by twisting fibers. Dividing the fiber into narrow strips (roving). Shuttle.
“Product manufacturing” - Selecting an option. Basics of design. Product.
How to make a tin scoop with your own hands
Product assembly. Manufacturing of the product. Transferring the drawing to the workpiece. Fundamentals of design and construction. Idea. Thinking over an idea. Drawing up a drawing.
“Design and modeling of an apron” - Design and modeling. Choosing fabric for an apron. Modeling methods. Modeling the main part of the apron. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bib. Measurements for constructing a drawing of an apron. Apron finishing options. Types of aprons. Purpose of the apron. Modeling an apron. Modeling.
“Natural fibers of plant origin” - Fabric taken from the loom. Cotton plant and cotton fibers. Natural fibers of plant origin. Types of weaves. Materials Science. Properties of cotton and linen fabrics. Fabric finishing. Primary processing of cotton. Sewing materials science. Linen. The process of obtaining fabric. Impact various factors for linen and cotton. Fabric production. Textile.
There are a total of 29 presentations in the topic “Technology 5th grade”
5klass.net > Technology 5th grade > Processing finely sheet metal> Slide 34
DIY scoop
Manufacturing technology for forged devices
(Blacksmith tools)
Everyone knows how necessary fireplace and stove appliances are in the everyday life of rural residents and summer residents. Before we get acquainted with the technology of their manufacture, let's look at modern designs forges, using which you can count on success in your undertaking.
Rice. 1. Forge for “two lights” with a fan: 1 - umbrella; 2 — furnace nest (hearth); 3 - stand; 4 - fan; 5 - air duct; 6 - air damper; 7 — water tanks; 8 - partition.
Rice. 2. Cast tuyere (a) with replaceable grates (b): 1 - tuyere body; 2 - air damper; 3 - pipe; 4 - bottom cover; 5 - load.
In Fig. 1 shows a “two-fire” forge. Two blacksmiths can work with such a forge. The air supply to its centers is carried out by a fan with a 0.5 kW motor, and this supply is regulated by a special damper. Its design is shown in Fig. 2.
A modern lance is made of cast steel and has replaceable grates with different blowing holes. Holes located in a circle produce a wide torch flame, slotted holes produce a narrow, oblong flame. To heat small massive workpieces, a torch flame is required, and for local heating of a long workpiece, a narrow flame is required.
We can offer two designs of forges (Fig. 3) with manual and foot driven for air supply. If you can’t find a suitable fan, then “wind blower” 4 can be made from plywood the way it was made in the old days.
Rice. 3. Ancient horns: a - with a “wind blower” and manual drive; b - with foot drive, 1 - box with sand and burnt earth; 2 - hearth; 3 - brick screen; 4 - “wind blower”; 5 - manual drive.
Rice. 4. Forging pliers: a - for round and square workpieces; b - for flat workpieces.
Rice. 5. Backing blacksmith tool: a - chisel; b - ironing board; c - acceleration; g - punch; d - cutting; e - cone; g - fork; z - slope.
Rice. 6. Poker (a) and its manufacturing technology (b - h).
Rice. 7. Grip (a) and forging sequence (b-d).
Rice. 8. Chapelnik (a) and forging operations (b - d).
To manufacture complex blacksmith products, you need to purchase: two types of pliers (Fig. 4); backing tool: chisel, smoother, straightener and punch (Fig. 5, a-d); as well as undercut, cone, fork and slope (Fig. 5, e-h).
Let's consider the backing tool of the first group. Work with it is carried out in a pair of “blacksmith - hammer hammer”.
Chisel in our case it is intended to cut metal. Depending on what material needs to be cut (cold or hot), the sharpening angle a is selected. For cutting hot metal, a is taken to be 15-30°, and for cold metal - 60-90°.
ironer used to level the forged surface of a product in a heated state.
Overclocking used where it is necessary to “disperse” - expand a part of the workpiece in a certain place.
Punchers, as the name suggests, punch holes. Each hole profile requires its own punch with a given bit cross-section.
The blacksmith holds a backing tool (chisel, smoother, sharpener or punch) and gives commands to the hammer: “hit”, “harder”, “quieter”.
The backing tool of the second group is installed with a shank in square hole anvil and is designed to perform various forging operations. The undercut allows you to cut workpieces by placing them on the undercut blade and hitting them from above with a hammer. The cone helps to straighten and produce ring elements. The fork is widely used in all kinds of bending operations. The slope makes it easier to forge conical elements of products.
Let us now consider the technological methods of forging devices for the Russian stove.
The poker (Fig. 6) consists of two elements: a forged hook and a wooden handle (handle).
We forge the hook from a round piece, dia. 20-25 mm. To keep it heated, we use special pliers. The first heating is to heat the central part of the workpiece and “pull out” the neck (Fig. 6, b) on the anvil. Then we heat the front part of the workpiece, stretch it onto a “rectangle” (Fig. 6, c) and, using a backing tool (straightening), we begin to forge the metal into a “wide wedge”. In this case, first we set the alignment in the center of the workpiece and make the first “punching”, then the second and third (Fig. 6, d). After the next heating, we make two more punches - the fourth and fifth. The surface took the shape of a wide wedge - a fan. Now it needs to be well leveled (Fig. 6, d) and pulled with a hammer to a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.
Then we proceed to molding the sleeve. Using the undercut and the back of the hammer (Fig. 6, e), we bend the sleeve.
Gradually tapping the bushing (Fig. 6, g), we obtain a conical surface.
Making the working part of the hook is much easier: we pull the round part of the workpiece until rectangular shape and bend the hook (Fig. 6, h). Now let's mechanically process the hook, drill a hole in the sleeve for the screw, drive in the handle - the poker is ready.
Grip(Fig. 7) has its own characteristics. Let us determine for which cast iron (by size) a grip is needed and set two sizes: the clearance between the horns Q (Fig. 7, a) and the diameter of the inner circle 0. The clearance between the horns should be slightly larger than the diameter of the bottom of the cast iron, and the internal diameter of the grip 0 - slightly less than the maximum diameter of the cast iron shoulders. Thus, the housewife should have as many grips as there are cast iron pots of different sizes.
Now let's move on to making the grip itself. We make the sleeve in the same way as for the poker. After forging the other end into a rectangle, we cut it lengthwise using a chisel (Fig. 7, b) and bend it 90 degrees. one branch. After this, we extend the second branch onto the pyramid, make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, c) and bend it 90 degrees. We heat the first branch, straighten it, pull it onto the pyramid and make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, d). Then, after the next heating, using a fork, we successively form the grip horns (Fig. 7, e).
We process the grip with a file and insert the handle into the sleeve. Ready.
Frying pan or chapelnik(Fig. 8), as it was called in the old days, is also included in the set of accessories for the Russian stove.
The technology for making a chapel is initially exactly the same as for a grip. After the sleeve is made and the second end of the workpiece is pulled onto the rectangle, we begin to forge the hook.
First, bend it 90 degrees at the edge of the anvil. part of the workpiece and forge the edge of the fold, forming a spatula (Fig. 8, b). Then we form the hook itself, gradually bending it at the edge of the anvil (Fig. 8, c). The final bending of the hook must be carried out taking into account the shape of the edge of the frying pan (Fig. 8, d).
Fireplace appliances differ from stove appliances in their lightness, elegance and beauty. They perform not only their direct functions, but also serve as decoration for the fireplace room.
Poker(Fig. 9, a) can be made from rods of both round (dia. 12-14 mm) and square (10-12 mm) sections.
Let's consider the technology of making a poker from a rod of dia. 12 mm.
We stretch one end of the round piece onto the rectangle and make a small curl at its end. After that, use a fork to bend and form a handle. Similar operations are necessary to form a hook: drawing into a rectangle, forming at the end of a curl, and bending “on a fork.” To make the poker more elegant, we will make a twist in the middle of the rod. First, we stretch the central part onto the rectangle, and then, using a blacksmith’s (or metalworker’s) vice and a poker hook as a lever, we twist it (Fig. 9, b).
Rice. 9. Fireplace poker (a) and twisting operation (b).
Rice. 10. Scoop (a) and its forging (b-d).
SCOOP WITH A TWIST
Forceps (a) and the sequence of their manufacture (b-d).
Rice. 12. Options for forged handles (a), various shapes scoops (b) and methods of attaching them to the handles (c).
Scoop(Fig. 10) can be made like this. First, we forge the handle of the scoop using the same technology that was used when forging the poker. Only instead of a hook you need to forge a “leaf” and bend it to the shape of a scoop.
Let's consider the technology of forging a “leaf”. Having heated the workpiece, we pull its end to a “steep cone” (Fig. 10, b), then flatten it and get a “leaf” (Fig. 10, c). If we bend the handle to the shape of a scoop (Fig. 10, d) and rivet it to it with two rivets, then the scoop will be ready. The scoop is usually made of 0.5 mm thick sheet steel. First, it is advisable to make a pattern model from thick paper. You need to decide on the size and shape and only then make a metal scoop. Using a sharpened metal rod (scriber), we draw on metal sheet pattern of the scoop (Fig. 10, d), and then, using an anvil and metal strips, bend the scoop. First the back part (1), then the sides (2, 3) and bend the top part back wall(4) in the opposite direction.
Fireplace tongs(Fig. 11) we will forge using all our acquired experience. First, we stretch the central part of the rod onto the rectangle (Fig. 11, b) and using a fork, hammer and anvil horn we form a spring ring (Fig. 11, c). After this, we align the branches of the tongs along the length (if any branch turns out to be longer, then it must be heated and chopped off with a chisel). We will make the grips in the form of leaves (see technology above), and the places for holding by hand - by twisting (Fig. 11, d). These places must first be stretched onto a rectangle.
After making all the devices, they must be thoroughly straightened and blued. It will give the products a finished look and protect them from rust. The products are uniformly heated to a temperature of 300-500 °C and lowered into a tank with waste machine oil. If the bluing did not work out as expected the first time, it should be repeated. After this, the products are wiped well with a rag. Options for manufacturing forged handles are shown in Fig. 12.
DIY folding grill
A folding barbecue, made with your own hands, is convenient during transportation and does not take up much space in the car. For lovers of barbecue in nature, this design is intended, which can easily be made independently.
The design consists of four components:
Bottom (3)
side walls lengthwise (2)
side walls width (1)
legs (4)
Folding grill made of angle and sheet metal three millimeters thick. With such a thickness of metal, the impact high temperatures it does not deform. The best option, if all structural parts are made from of stainless steel– we will get an “eternal” use option.
Consists of two parts:
The circuit is welded from metal corner GOST 8509-93
the plate is welded to the contour
The size of the structure can be any, it all depends on your appetite and the amount of meat cooked at one time.
SIDE WALLS
Let's drill through holes for better combustion of coals and cut grooves to fix the skewers at the desired angles.
By lenght
Width
To make grooves, we weld pieces of metal on both sides of the sheet.
LEGS
We will make it from metal rod GOST 2590-88, Ø12…14 (mm).
Assembly order
1. Let's bend the development of the long wall on both sides. In order for both parts to turn out identical, two sheets of blanks must be inserted into the bending machine.
2.
Let's measure the distance between the two bent planes.
3.
Cut the long corners to the resulting size. The corner should fit tightly into the cavity between the bent sides.
4.
Let's weld the bottom.
5.
Let's drill through technological holes:
– 4 for pins Ø6 (mm);
– 4 threaded M 10
6.
Let's cut the thread
7.
Let's attach side wall to the bottom and insert the pins. The wall should open to an angle from 0° to 90° (the plane of the corner will fix the angular movement of the wall at an angle >90°).
8. Let's weld the pin with inside bottom.
9.
Screw the legs into the threads.
10.
The side walls are the width, insert them through the grooves.
DIY scoop made of tin
A folding barbecue, made with your own hands, is ready for use.
This model will be easily disassembled and assembled within one minute, and the dirtiest surface will remain inside. We place the disassembled parts inside the grill.
As you can see, when assembled it is a small suitcase. If you want to carry it in a vertical position, you need to install a simple lock on the folding walls and attach a handle to one of them.
It is generally accepted that creative person, is not limited to creativity in just one field of activity. So, for example, nothing prevents an excellent gardener from making various things that will certainly be useful to him on the farm. One of these necessary things can be a garden scoop made from a piece of PVC pipe. The good thing about it is that, despite the need for regular sharpening, it is virtually impossible to break.
Required Tools
To make such a product you should use: a small piece PVC pipes, gas torch, 1-inch pipe, drill, hacksaw and file.Manufacturing technology
To begin, take a small piece of pipe with a large diameter and carefully heat it, observing safety precautions. If you are heating gas burner or at gas stove, avoid igniting the plastic. The plastic should be allowed to warm up evenly, but the surface should not lose its structure: melting and charring are unacceptable.
Now you have to warm up part of the future handle, giving it softness. You only need to heat the part that will connect to the scoop.
The handle is formed quite easily: you wrap a piece of pipe with a softened blank. It is very important to use gloves to avoid getting burned. The handle should be held as long as possible so that the plastic cools and hardens, holding the required form. It is at this stage that you can give the handle the required angle of inclination that is convenient for you.
You can shape the scoop bayonet as you wish, giving it a square or more rounded shape. In this case, the excess is removed with a hacksaw. If you wish, you can sharpen the working edge, but remember that plastic dulls faster than metal.
For more convenient storage The scoop can be hung; to do this, make a hole of the required diameter in the handle.
Such a scoop will be an excellent helper in your garden and will delight the children, who will eagerly join in your favorite activity.
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