Homemade sawmill and circular saw from an electric saw. Do-it-yourself sawmill from an electric saw Do-it-yourself camping chain saw

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for summer cottage either in personal home. She simply masters cutting thick branches, boards and different material made of wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to correct small or large damage. Electric saw repair their with hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be sent in for service. But there are some breakdowns that can simply be corrected without the help of others.

Overview of the design of an electric chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair electric saws, you need to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a collection of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The chain moves along a plate called a tire. Do-it-yourself electric saw from a grinder -. This part is made from steel of the highest quality, which is not susceptible to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the tool’s properties. Tires are classified by design:

welded;
solid with removable tip;
solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich” that is welded from 3 components into one, with all this a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with replaceable tip - product from 1 sheet, normal for instruments long length. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. The one-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire made of carbide materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in conditions of the presence of huge amounts of sand, dust and dirt.

1. ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW FROM AN GRINDER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” occurring. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Review of possible malfunctions of electric saws

If the saw does not cut in, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To fix this problem, you need to move the brake flap to a different position.
If the measures described above do not turn on the saw, then need to check integrity of the cable and plug.
If the power of the saw has decreased or productivity has dropped, you need to change the carbon brushes, which are apparently worn out.
Quite often the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain lapse of time. The longer the saw is used, the larger this temporary gap becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
Often, when the saw is operating, a nasty, ear-cutting sound occurs. This sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A power chain saw is a saw, How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil and clean the grooves.
It is important to use only unique spare parts for repairs that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from third-party companies, this often leads to tool failure or unsafe situations.
If there is damage to the body, then for your safety, the saw must be sent in for repair.
You cannot replace cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or are not suitable for the design.

CHAIN POWER SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH OWN WITH YOUR HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for an angle grinder, turning it into electric chain saw.

Sharpening a power saw

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Electric chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth it to renovate an apartment with your own hands? It must be sharpened preventively, since if this process is delayed, it will no longer be possible to repair the electric chain saw with your own hands. It must be sent to a service center, where it will be sharpened on professional machines.

Some rules for working with electric saws

Electric chainsaws are designed to operate at maximum speed and should always be operated at full throttle to improve performance.
You should not cut at a right angle away from yourself; you should hold the saw slightly at an angle from the body.
It is necessary to follow the instructions for repairing the electric saw, and also purchase only those spare parts which are recommended by the manufacturer.
Before transporting the saw, you must turn off the engine; keep the bar and chain behind you when carrying it; you must pack the saw in the casing before transportation.
Do not operate the saw above shoulder level as this increases the risk of an accident.
If the saw is jammed in the material, it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
When working with a log framed by thin branches, you should act very carefully, since thin material in some cases is clamped by a tire and tilted towards the person performing the work.
It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, unadjusted or incompletely assembled tool.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the saw switch.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injury, but also to breakdown of the device.
Repair of Partner electric saws, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, because do-it-yourself repair leads to serious problems in the future.

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A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw not particularly often, I still recommend getting such a machine if you have the slightest opportunity to make parts. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, milling cutter and universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant design changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this saw design provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling processing, and it is also possible to sharpen tools and cut metal.

The basis of this design is an electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is its exceptional reliability, and taking into account the fact that in an electric saw it operates in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is cut from plywood or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is secured to the base with MB screws with a conical head using angles measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 140 mm, attached to the electric motor with its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, a subframe is attached to the top of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the angles, which serve to attach them to the engine, are oblong in shape in order to ensure tension on the belt drive. Instead of the standard nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel strip measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the area opposite the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal rod with a diameter of 15 mm.

Ball bearings of the shaft on which they are mounted saw blade and a belt drive pulley are installed in the bearing unit housing. As for the manufacture of the bearing assembly housing, shaft and parts used to secure the saw blade (Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also quality of woodworking.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20; it is designed to install bearings of type 203, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car store. It is advisable to make the spindle shaft and the saw blade mounting parts from higher quality steel, for example from steel 45. The dimensions of the saw blade mounting parts allow the installation of discs with an internal hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, length 82 mm, with the help of which the bearing assembly is secured to the underframe with MB screws with conical heads. The threaded holes used to attach it to the underframe should be drilled before welding using a template, which is then used to drill holes in the underframe. To avoid welding metal splashes, the bearing housings are rubbed with chalk before welding. It should be noted that it is recommended to drill all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined together during the rough preliminary assembly process, including cutting out a hole in the underframe used for installing a cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin with a thickness of 4-5 mm or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. To allow the saw blade to pass through, a slot about 10 mm wide is made in the table. This can be done later, during the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which the halves of detachable card cards are attached with screws with a diameter of M5. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which includes counter halves of loops with pins attached to the work table with M5 screws with a conical head. To ensure the orientation of the countersinks in the hinge plates with the fastener heads, the mating halves are swapped: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right mating part.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment of the rise of the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of protrusion of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the table surface. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by securing the table to the underframe and adjusting the lift of the table by placing washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other sizes, the dimensional chains of the bearing assembly housing must be adjusted. It is advisable to use ready-made nuts. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from an aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise the use of cutting tools with a diameter of 200 mm or more will be impossible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with just such belts. In combination with cutting tool small diameter, of course,” you can also use belts of shorter length.

The standard diagram for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in Fig. 4. The RTK-S type starting relay is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upward - otherwise the relay will not operate correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use capacitor system start (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the motor torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two-key switch. The “Start” key (Fig. 6) is equipped with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures that the key returns to its original state. The flag attached to this key ensures automatic operation of the second section of switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the “Start” button for a period of time during which the electric motor reaches operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the SI contacts, which disconnect the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains in the on state, closing the S2 contacts. The electric motor is stopped by pressing the “Stop” button. When using a capacitor starting system, it is necessary to install a fuse with a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the tie rod nuts are released and the underframe is moved relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor engine starting system, the weakest link of the machine may be the standard transmission belt. In this case, you can use a belt drive with a double belt.

When using a standard electric motor starting system, it is also advisable to connect a capacitor Cp to the starting relay terminals “O” and “P”, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The parts of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield, z-shaped, bent in place, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and secured with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of approximately 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. On the front surface of the shield is attached rocker switch, and on the back side there are capacitors.

Using MB bolts, a guide made of a duralumin angle measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 600 mm is attached to the table, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be attached to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is advisable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

A trapezoidal slot is made at the base of the saw with dimensions: At the bases of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot serves to dump sawdust from under the disk into the storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slit and secured to it with twine or an elastic band. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, and also as bedding for the cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. cannot be used.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a hopper for collecting sawdust, since it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of different cutting and sharpening tool. Speaking of selection saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a disk for rip sawing 1.6 mm thick, 200 mm in diameter with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw's motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; Do not purchase blades intended for cross cutting: if ripsaw and cuts across the fibers quite satisfactorily, then when trying longitudinal sawing Using a crosscut saw will put you through a lot of work.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing large volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade “shrinks” very quickly due to the presence of various solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to saw large quantities of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

It is most productive to choose quarters with a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a mounting hole of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disc for metal 3 mm thick, with a seat diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install disks with a seat diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not pose any problems for you. If you are using a router bit or cutting disc, the hole in the workbench may need to be slightly widened.

Drawings of parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) to the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of the UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the Rebir electric planer type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively light work - the armature of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this plane is extremely low and I should get a more reliable tool. I note that if you use an UDG, you will need to make a special work table, since a hole width of 55 mm is required to pass the cutters fixed in the head. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cutting and sanding wheel on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be observed especially strictly when processing used wood. If metal inclusions are detected, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be turned off immediately, the cause of the overload must be eliminated and turned on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the dullness of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work like a “beast” again. In passing, I would like to note the need to control the spread of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should approximately be 0.6-0.8 mm. The saw doesn’t like to cut without a divorce! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player's contacts.

When trimming edges, do not edged boards To obtain smooth edges on the board, you must first “beat” a line using a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would also be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the wringer of the washing machine, securing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By lifting the desktop, you can install abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with glued sandpaper (“bayan”) will allow you to sand parts. A polished wheel, which is a package of round pieces of fabric sandwiched between two disks, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

It is very convenient to store cutting and fastening tools in a metal film can with a diameter of 300 mm. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are placed in a stack (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), they are wrapped with the ends of the fabric and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. You can attach an eyelet to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses and wear gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace the cut ones, and it is still very difficult to replant cut ones, despite the colossal advances of medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

When working at home, you always need to know how to make a tool with my own hands. A homemade circular saw will perform its duties no worse than its factory counterpart, and its maintenance and dismantling will be much easier. In special cases circular saw can be converted into a radial or angle grinder, which has its own very pleasant moments.

You can make a circular saw yourself; for this you need to have good drawings and tools.

Working with a saw and grinder

Tools and materials:

grinder 150-180 mm;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
steel clamps;
sheet steel;
pliers.

Before you make a circular saw yourself, you need to try making it from other tools. Most often, the process is organized with the help of an angle grinder, because it can be remade much faster and easier than any other analogues.

The simplest option best damages the instrument. To do this, you will need to screw the tool to the base using metal screws. If desired, you can do it with a drill through holes and tighten with bolts and nuts, which will be much more reliable in operation, because the tool will no longer strip the thread in case of strong tension. The only nuance that should be taken into account is the factory imbalance of the tool, due to which you will have to fix it very carefully so that there is not even a small chance of movement.

If desired, you can complicate this design, and this will also protect the instrument from unnecessary interventions inside. For fastening, you will need steel clamps that wrap around the tool at 3-4 points and then secure it with bolts on both sides. This design is very reliable, but you should pay attention to the quality of fixation Special attention to avoid even small misunderstandings.

For those cases where the tool is made stationary, you can use more powerful options for angle grinders. The angle grinder itself is attached to the reduction gearbox using bolts or self-tapping screws (depending on the ability to make a joint without damaging the tool, because sometimes the mounting locations do not match), after which they are installed together on the table top and screwed in the highest quality way.

Most reliable way will at the same time be the most difficult, because the support of a turner-miller will be required. His task is only to carve a special part that would be suitable in its parameters for coupling the grinder and the tabletop. This method The coupling is the most reliable, and even microscopic movements are eliminated, which is not possible to achieve in every factory tool.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that in any case it is deleted protective cover, and instead a homemade one is made from sheet steel. It will no longer be possible to use the mount for the casing due to the fact that it is used for coupling, and the homemade product should be mounted directly to the tabletop. To make it, you need to cut a semicircle from sheet steel, the end of which is bent and clamped with pliers. This design will withstand any surprises after it can be screwed on.

When choosing an angle grinder, you need to be extremely careful so that the number of revolutions is small and the power is high. If the speed exceeds 4500 rpm, you will have to use reduction gears, because otherwise, the cutters will grind down very quickly.

It is very important to remember that under no circumstances should a circular saw made from an angle grinder be remade back, because For this reason, every day in all parts of the world people are admitted to hospitals with injuries of varying degrees of severity. Even if an angle grinder is urgently needed, and there is no other option, it is better to be patient, because even the factory protection will most likely not save you.

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Saw conversion

Tools and materials:

Diagram of a carriage for a circular saw.

chain Saw;
flat steel roller;
nozzle for cutters;
reduction gear;
welding machine.

Electric saws and chainsaws are a gift from the 20th century, which fits very harmoniously into life, but there are situations when it is desirable to remake them, which is not easy. Please note in advance that this alteration is of a momentary nature, but if desired, you can repeat it over and over again without any damage (the replacement will take some time).

In order to get a circular saw, you only need to weld a movable wheel at the very end of the boom and cut off the end itself. The wheel must perfectly follow the contour of the cut element so that the chain does not stretch or fall off when moving.

An adapter for cutters is attached to the side of the wheel. This adapter is removable so that there are no difficulties when sawing with a chain.

With high-quality modification, the wheel will not in any way harm the performance of the chainsaw in the absence of cutters at this moment. In addition, the basic operating speed allows you to do without serious third-party modifications.

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Using an electric motor

Tools and materials:

asynchronous motor;
sheet steel;
wires;
reduction gear;
bolts with nuts;
adapter for cutters;
pliers.

There are many electric motors, the most popular being commutator, synchronous and asynchronous motors. For this activity, the asynchronous option is suitable, because it has the highest power levels, low revs and a huge reserve of endurance.

It will be very simple to make a circular from it, so everything can be done in stages:

An engine of 4000-4500 rpm is selected, with a power of 2-3 kW and powered from a 220 V outlet. If an engine with such parameters was not found, then you will have to use a gearbox that will bring the number of revolutions to the required one. The connection is made using bolts and nuts, but it is advisable not to resort to self-tapping screws, as they can cause significant damage.
Now you need to choose which attachment you will use: chains or cutters. The cutters grind down quickly, but produce a thinner cut, which makes it possible to achieve greater accuracy. Chains grind much more slowly, but during operation they contain several times more sawdust. Most often, preference is given to cutters, because base price wood with them is a little cheaper, and the quality of the cut is higher.
An adapter for cutters is attached to the motor shaft. If a gearbox was used, then it must be mounted on the gearbox. IN in this case the joint is made without welding, so that if necessary, you can replace the nozzle with any suitable one.

At the very end, a protective casing is made from sheet steel using the method described above. The casing is attached to the gearbox or motor so that there are no complications.

Circular electric saws are extremely necessary tools For household. Thanks to their technical and functional properties, today no one can do without them. furniture manufacturing or carpentry shop. And in private households there are many problems that would be more expedient to solve with their participation. The only thing that limits their use today is their cost, which is growing every year, as is the human need for them. One of the ways to overcome this barrier and acquire such a universal assistant is to assemble a homemade circular saw,

Considering the load and operating cycle of electric saws, for them home production you will need an equally reliable basic electrical appliance. Craftsmen advise using a grinder or an angle grinder, which almost everyone has. Its traction potential will be sufficient for sawing wood, cutting beams into slats and other tasks that most users set for it. Let's look at several ways to make an electric saw from a grinder at home.

DIY circular saw: the easiest way to make it

In order to start assembling a homemade product, you will need:

metal clamps;
electric drill;
toothed disc;
several pieces of metal corner;
bolt ties modifications M3 or M5;
working gearbox;
rods made of high-strength steel;
wrench.

The power base of the future design will be the engine from a household grinder.

Work progress step by step

the previously installed disk is first removed from the grinder;
Take a disk with teeth for woodworking, which is tightened with corners. A gap of several millimeters is left, which is adjusted using a bolt tie;
The body of the grinder - the future electric saw - is covered with clamps. A double metal strip with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm is passed through the bottom of the tool;
The grinder gearbox is pre-disassembled. You need to make holes in it to attach the handle. The last part can be made of a metal tube, the shape of which should be slightly rounded;
to adjust the gaps between the side stop and the base surface, 4 holes are drilled in the gearbox for screwing in bolts;
The handle is bolted to the gearbox. Its end protruding outside the electric saw is given a horizontal position, holes are drilled and the axis is fed. If the handle is D-shaped, an adapter is installed between the handle and the gearbox - a tube made of thick-walled metal;
the rods are cut into 6 cm pieces, which are given a loop shape;
washers are fixed in front of the stop, thereby correcting the gap;
the handle is connected to the body with an electric motor.

By supplementing such an electric saw from a grinder with your own hands with a stationary base made of chipboard or stable plywood, you can make a stationary circular electric saw for a workbench or desktop.

In both options, it is very important not to make a mistake with the choice of disk and to correctly calculate the gear ratio. It is advisable to focus on single-phase asynchronous motors, which are included with most angle grinders. Three-phase motor systems, which can also take place in a similar design, should not be used without additional capacitors. A separate button can be used as a starting capacitor. In this option, you will need to consider additional grounding and check the electrical safety of the homemade product.

Electric chain saw from an angle grinder: step-by-step instructions

In order to recreate a chain saw based on a working grinder, we will need:

Bulgarian herself;
drive sprocket, which is best to buy new, but if you have a working spare part with old saw you can limit yourself to a used option;
metal to create a bracket to which the guide will be connected;
a set of saw sets consisting of a bar and chain;
a set of tools, including a drill;
bolts.

The build process looks like this:

1. unscrew the saw blade from the grinder;
2. make holes in the bottom of the metal casing of the device;
3. bolt the bracket to the protective shield;

1. a sprocket is screwed onto the motor shaft;

a guide is secured behind the bracket ties;
After the chain is put on and straightened, the bracket bolts are tightly fixed.

After this you can start working.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade electric saws from an angle grinder

Electric saws, which today can not only be bought in a store, but also made at home, in addition to their main advantage - low cost of their production, have a lot weaknesses. Namely:

low level of safety for the health and life of the operator working - homemade products do not have protection against kickback, which in factory electric saws is taken over by the inertial chain brake. And this increases the likelihood of injury and injury;
fragility of tire-chain elements due to the lack of automatic lubrication. The only way out in this situation is to periodically dip homemade saw into a container with chain oil;
high risk of motor overheating from an angle grinder due to overloads and prolonged use.