A suburban area without water is a small desert. Neither to plant a flowerbed, nor to equip a swimming pool, nor to other common and simply necessary benefits of civilization associated with water supply. There can be only one way out in such a situation - a well at the dacha with your own hands or to order. It all depends on whether you have money and the desire to work. If you have enough energy and enthusiasm, then such a troublesome task as installing a well in your country house will be up to you. Let's look at what kind of wells there can be and what is their difference.
This is a driving well or a needle well that you can drill yourself. It is suitable for areas in which the aquifer lies at a depth of 3-12 m. It is important that there are no settling tanks, cesspools, septic tanks, landfills and other environmentally polluting sources nearby (within a radius of 30 m from the well).
For such a well you will need pipes, a plug filter, a tap, a headstock with a headstock, and a clamp. They drill a well both in the yard and in the basement of the house itself. Then you can use water even in winter. And if you install both a pump and manual column, then you can provide yourself with water even when there is no electricity.
Economical sand well
Such a well is drilled to extract water from a sandy aquifer, which is usually located at a depth of up to 50 m. The volume of produced water is enough for one area. But the water quality needs to be checked periodically.
The above rule about the need to keep the well away from sources of pollution is also relevant. groundwater. The coarse water filter, located at the very bottom of the well, must be cleaned regularly. The service life of such a well is 10-15 years.
Artesian well - long-term operational life
In areas where there is a limestone layer, it is possible to extract water from it. You can find out about the presence of such a formation either from your neighbors (are there artesian wells in the area?), or by ordering an experimental well from specialists. It will not be possible to drill such a well on your own, because the depth of the aquiferous limestone formation is 30-200 m. Ordering the relevant work from specialists is quite expensive. But by providing a similar water supply on your site, you can be sure that both your children and grandchildren will not have problems with water. To pump water from such a well, you will need a metal caisson tank in which a pump and a hydraulic accumulator are installed. Underground pipes can carry water into the house. Saving money will become possible if funds are collected from several dacha plots for drilling wells in a dacha. Then running water at your dacha from a well will become not a dream, but a reality.
How to drill a well in a country house?
To provide water to a site, you need to decide what volumes of water (debit) you are interested in. If it is about 10 cubic meters. per hour, then you can’t do without an artesian well. If it is 1-1.5 cubic meters. per hour, then you can stop at the Abyssinian well and sand well. Moreover, you can drill them yourself. We will talk further about how to make a well in a country house.
Choose a place for the well that is not too far from the house - no more than 3 m. Then it will be easier to lay a water supply system. If there were already sand wells on the site, then a new one needs to be drilled away from the old ones.
What do home drillers need?
To drill a well with your own hands you will need:
- drilling derrick - a tripod made of strong logs or metal pipes and a winch attached to it for lowering and lifting the drilling tool;
- drilling tool (consists of a drilling core, core pipe, drill bit y rods);
- drill (for different types of soil, a drill bit, a drill spoon, a bailer, and a coil are used);
- shovels.
Self drilling process
In the place intended for the well, a hole is dug, the so-called pit, the size of which is 1.5 x 1.5 m. To prevent the walls from crumbling, they are lined with boards or plywood. Install the drilling derrick (tripod). You can use a ready-made one, or you can make it yourself from three logs with a diameter of up to 15-20 cm. A winch is attached to the place where the logs are attached. A drilling column can consist of three, four or more meter rods, threaded (coupling) into one pipe and equipped with clamps for lowering and lifting. If the well is planned to be shallow, then you can get by with one and a half meter rods without using a tripod. The diameter of the core pipe depends on the diameter of the future pump. The gap between them must be at least 5 mm. The most suitable pipes are with a diameter of 114 - 219 mm.
The process of rotary-percussion well drilling
Wells are drilled using the rotary-impact method. In order to drill a well, the efforts of two people are needed, who will turn the rod. One person turns the rod with a pipe (gas) wrench, and the second person hits the rod itself with a hammer, breaking through the rock. Even more effective method: two people rotate the rod, and two people use a winch to lift and lower it in the hole, punching through the rock.
You need to put marks on the rod itself. After all, after 50-60 cm, the drill needs to be pulled out and cleared of soil. Drilling is a process that depends entirely on the rocks s . Therefore, when drilling wells, it is necessary to use different types Boers. The presence of moisture in the rock removed from the well will indicate that a water-containing formation has been reached. When the appropriate water level is reached, the well is cleaned with a bailer and a flushing pump from sand and solids.
Diagram of the caisson installation and connection of the well to an autonomous water supply system
To equip a well you will need:
- casing pipe (metal, plastic);
- filter;
- pump;
- safety rope;
- waterproofed cable;
- pipe or hose for lifting water;
- valve;
- caisson.
The well is equipped with a filter column, consisting of a filter and a casing pipe. The filter is made from a casing pipe by wrapping the perforation with a filter mesh. Water is pumped through the casing and the filter is washed.
The pump is selected in advance. After all, its dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the casing pipe. Also, when choosing a pump, it is important to take into account the flow rate of the well, the depth of the water, and the load on the pump, which depends on the depth of the well itself and its distance from the house. If the well depth is more than 9 m, then a borehole pump is used; if less, then a surface self-priming pump is used.
Construction of a caisson - a container used for installing equipment and servicing a water-bearing well
Submersible pump lowered into the well secured to a safety rope or pipe. A cable, which must be waterproof, and a water riser pipe (or hose) are attached to the pump. The diameter of such a pipe can be 25, 40, 50 mm, depending on the flow rate of the well. The pipe is brought out to the wellhead and hermetically welded to the caisson head. The water supply is regulated by a valve that is installed on the pipe. The sides of the caisson are covered with earth. You can now get to the well only through a manhole cover on the surface of the earth. Water is carried from the caisson through a trench into the house .
How to clean a well in a country house?
Long-term operation of a well eventually leads to its clogging. How do we know about this? From the tap! The water flow decreases, the water comes out with air, in jerks, impurities, silt, and sand are present in the water. If such a well is not “treated” in time, you will have to dig a new one. How are wells cleaned? There are several of them.
Using an air compressor. A vacuum plug is created on the well pipe. A compressor is connected to it and a well is blown through it. high pressure. This method is good for removing sludge. If, in addition to silt, there are iron and lime deposits, then blowing will be ineffective.
Using a water compressor. The well is washed under high water pressure. It is only effective against silt and sand.
The method of explosion through a short circuit can be called revolutionary. To do this, the electrical cord is separated (2), threaded through the plug (5), the wires are exposed, they are pulled apart and connected with a thin copper thread (2). This device is inserted into a medicine bottle (4), filled with black powder (3) and sealed with a stopper. This device is lowered to the bottom of the well (1), attaching a weight. You can use a piece of lead or steel pipe as a sinker. Next fork (8)from the power cord, connect to a 220 W network and immediately turn it off. There will be an explosion in the well. It is safer to carry out similar experiments with a half-filled vial twice in a row. If the water comes out, then you can stop, but if not, then use a full bottle.
With acid. After the well is purged with a compressor, acid is poured into it. The method is very dangerous, so a person needs to protect his face and eyes as much as possible, and wear a respirator. Since you can’t find acid during the day today, people have gotten used to using acid for batteries. After pouring acid into the well, plug it for a couple of days. After a while, again armed with protective equipment, the plug is removed. By connecting the pump, pump water for 7 hours. After such a procedure, you can drink it only after a month, and if earlier, then only after additional filtration.
As you can see, there are a lot of disadvantages in cleaning wells yourself. Therefore, in order to preserve the well and clean it as much as possible, they resort to the services of professionals. Otherwise, you can cause harm instead of benefit and, due to inexperience, destroy the pipes. “The miser pays twice,” says popular wisdom. Therefore, it is better to pay specialists to clean and repair wells once every 10 years than to dig a new one later.
It is not always possible to dig a well on a dacha plot, and in order to solve the water supply problem, a well is installed, dug at the dacha with your own hands or with the involvement of specialists.
If your land plot is not connected to water supply pipes from the nearest water pumping station, and there is no spring nearby drinking water, the lack of life-giving moisture will begin to be felt very soon. First of all, water is needed for one’s own needs; watering can also be organized from the nearest reservoir by installing a pump there or a simple chigir wheel on the river. But you are unlikely to drink from a pond or lake, even without forgetting to boil it. Therefore, the thought immediately arises of digging a well in a summer cottage. But this is a very time-consuming task.
The device at the dacha looks much more advantageous in terms of labor costs Abyssinian well, which is, despite the name, a drilled well. Yes, exactly punched, not drilled, because to obtain this source drinking water the casing pipe is immediately equipped with a sharp tip and a filter at the bottom, after which the boom is driven into the ground. Casing sections are built up as each previous one goes almost completely into the ground. Maximum depth such a well is up to 25–30 meters, and on average about 12–15.
Installation of an Abyssinian well at the dacha
If the groundwater is deep, you can still get to it yourself if you find the equipment to make a sand well at your dacha. For this you will need hand drill, which may be enough if you first dig a well and properly equip the well already at the bottom of the hole. However, the sandy aquifer, which usually lies above an impermeable layer of clay, can be located at a depth of more than 30 meters, sometimes up to 50. Here you cannot do without a mobile drilling rig, which can be rented, or without a more primitive tripod design with a winch and a collar to rotate the drill. We will talk about it in more detail later.
The third option is an artesian well, which is drilled to the lower aquifers, located at a depth of up to 200 meters, on top of a limestone base. It can no longer be done with your own hands, since the sections of the drill going hundreds of meters into the ground simply cannot be rotated using a gate or even a motor available to you. Already needed here professional equipment and the specialists who serve it. Also take into account identifying the location of the accumulation of groundwater, the so-called lens. If the pipes of an Abyssinian well are inexpensive, and if they fail, they can be left in the ground, then casing a sand well will cost a lot. What can we say about an artesian well? Therefore, preliminary geological exploration is necessary.
First of all, you should find out from your closest neighbors in the country who already have a well, to what depth they drilled the ground. Next, you compare the height difference between their site and yours, after which you will have an idea of the depth of groundwater. Next, find out what type of soil you have in the area below the fertile layer. If it is heavy clay, and even with stones, then it is likely that it will be very difficult to break through such a formation, with the risk of damaging the casing boom. If it is sandy, then most likely you can get to the aquifer quickly.
To make a filter tip, you will need a strong metal cone with the tip angle as sharp as possible. The base of the cone should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe being welded, which is rarely more than 2.68 centimeters with an internal channel of 20 millimeters. This is necessary so that the rod can pass relatively easily into the punched hole. Next, in the walls of the pipe, on a segment of 30 centimeters with a slight indentation from the cone, we drill holes in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them in each row should be about 3 centimeters, the diameter up to 8 millimeters, preferably within 6. There will be approximately 5-6 such rows.
Tip with filter for hole punching
The perforated area must be wrapped with fine-mesh galvanized mesh. For better filtration, you can make turns of thin wire on top in one layer with small intervals, which is soldered with tin without lead, so as not to poison the water. We secure the mesh at the top and bottom by welding strips of metal 2–3 centimeters wide around the pipe, which we connect with narrow (1 centimeter) vertical sections every 20 millimeters. The result is a lattice that protects the mesh when the rod passes through the ground. The length of the pipe should be within 2 meters to make it more convenient to drive with a wooden “headstock” (a heavy block suspended on a block that is mounted on a high tripod or on the ceiling if the well is in the basement).
Sections of pipes of the same diameter, with threads cut at the ends, are connected using cast iron or steel couplings, screwed on using seals to prevent water from passing through as they go deeper into the ground. When the rod begins to move especially easily, this means that you have reached a loose layer saturated with water. Check, pour water into the pipe, and if it goes away quickly, try, on the contrary, connect a hand pump (you can through a filter) and pump. Liquid mud begins to flow - good, that means there is really a lot of water there, continue pumping, at this time a cavity will form below, or, in other words, a cavity in which moisture accumulates. If the water does not flow, you need to gradually go deeper, pouring water into the pipe every 15–20 centimeters and trying to connect the pump. At the end, a column is installed to pump out water with your own hands.
If you know that the depth of the aquifer is about 30 meters and below, you need to stop thinking about the Abyssinian well. Here it will be much more effective to equip a sand well, which you can also make at the dacha with your own hands. It is called that because it ends in a sandy aquifer, from where water is pumped out through a special filter.
To get to groundwater, you will need a column of long rods, at the end of which a drilling head is installed. The tips are different: “spoon”, “coil”, “chisel”. The first option consists of two grooves, separated by some distance and joining at the bottom. The coil resembles a screw or two intertwined spirals. , rather, it looks like a mason's chisel. Setting up a sand well in a dacha is more difficult than constructing an Abyssinian well, since during the drilling process you need to constantly lower the casing down, which, however, can be done with your own hands at the dacha.
For work, the above-mentioned tripod with a winch is used, to which a column with a collar is attached, suspended on a freely rotating ring or hook. The diameter of the head must be at least 5 millimeters smaller than the casing channel; it is usually selected based on the size of the well pump. The height of the tripod is determined by the length of one section of the column, which can be from 1.5 to 4 meters. A mobile drilling machine can be used if it is not possible to assemble a tripod; the device consists of a frame-stand and a guide along which a block of a motor that rotates the column and a load are slowly lowered.
Tripod with winch
The drill head must be removed every 60 centimeters to clear the soil; for this you can apply the appropriate marks directly to the rods.
When approximately the same section is passed through crumbling rock, it is recommended to begin to deepen the casing pipe, the lowest section of which is equipped with a shoe, through which the filter will subsequently be lowered into the well, followed by. The pipe is always wider than the drill head, which moves inside, so it must be lowered correctly, by rotating or by driving it with a steel or wooden headstock weighing about 30 kilograms (the method depends on the smooth or jagged edge of the shoe).
As for the tips of the drill head, they need to be changed sometimes, depending on what kind of soil you are going through at the moment. For loose, loose rocks, a “spoon” is best suited. If there is hard ground with stones, change the nozzle to a “coil”. And finally, in the hardest rocks it is best to use impact method passage, using a “chisel” as the tip of the drill head, the tip of which can be either sharp or cross-shaped. When the work is completed, a viewing well is installed at the dacha, a pump is lowered down, and water pipes are connected to it. Now you can think about how to improve or hide a well in your dacha with your own hands, for example, with a hollow imitation of a stone or a stump.
How to make a tripod for drilling?
To properly make the simplest device for hanging a drill column with your own hands, it is enough to take 3 beams or logs that are connected at the top, forming a pyramid with a triangular base. You can also use them as supports metal pipes. A winch is suspended from the center of the connection. Through an adapter in the form of a freely rotating spindle with a ring or clamp, a drill string is connected, in the upper part of which a collar is fixed.
Thus, to operate this device, at least 2 people are needed, but 3 are better, then two will rotate the drill, and the third will operate the winch. To make it easier to work, we first dig a well or pit up to 2 meters deep. Flooring is placed on its bottom, and the walls are lined with boards to prevent crumbling. Leave the center of the hole free for drilling. The second flooring is laid on top, the tripod is installed with a support outside the pit or well.
As the drill sinks, the column is built up with new rods, the topmost of which is attached to the collar. To make the passage of hard rocks easier, you can add water to the well, but then it will be more difficult to understand when wet soil begins to flow, signaling that the aquifer has begun. After finishing the work, you can think about how to cover the well with your own hands. It is better to use an inspection hatch.
Nothing complicates the life of a summer resident more than the lack of a large amount of water. In the warm season, during the dacha rush, its shortage is especially felt: it is necessary for the shower and swimming pool, for watering the garden and garden, just to cook dinner or do laundry. A familiar well, or even better, a deep well in the yard of a house can save the situation. But, unfortunately, hiring a crew and renting equipment will cost a pretty penny. However, it turns out that a self-made well in a dacha is a very real thing. We suggest you figure out how to do everything correctly on your own.
Wells come in various types depending on design features, installation depth and characteristics of the water being extracted, but only two types are suitable for drilling in a suburban area:
- sandy (or “on sand”);
- artesian (or “limestone”).
This material about making a needle well with your own hands may also be useful:
Both types of wells are suitable for a dacha, artesian and sand, but only the sand option can be made independently, without the use of equipment
The name of the species speaks for itself: the indicated rocks are present in the aquifer - either sand or limestone. In addition, both types differ in depth. Drilling of sand wells is carried out to a depth of up to 50 m, and artesian wells - up to 200 m. It becomes clear that wells “for limestone” cannot be drilled independently, therefore for dachas best option– sandy look.
Wells “for sand” and “limestone” differ not only in the depth of drilling of the shaft, but also in its diameter, as well as the size of the casing pipes
First you need to determine the parameters of groundwater occurrence. Before contacting specialists, you can ask your neighbors how deep their wells are. If the parameters do not exceed 25 meters, there is a chance.
The location of the well is chosen not far from the house, and sometimes the shaft is laid directly in a utility room or an extension connected to the cottage
Mechanisms for self-construction of wells
Usually, special drilling equipment is used to construct a well, so a completely logical question arises: how to drill a well in a country house without using it? It turns out that there is a simple manual mechanism consisting of a drilling rig and a column suspended from it. Let's take a closer look at the individual pieces of equipment.
The base is a tower resembling a tripod. The material for the supports is either metal pipes or logs connected at the top with a pin. The drill column lifting block is also located there. The two legs of the tower are connected by a winch (gate).
The design of drilling equipment may vary. In some cases, if the impermeable layer lies close to the surface of the earth, a hand drill is sufficient
The drilling column is the main functional element. It consists of several three-meter rods connected by couplings. Sometimes a length of one and a half meters is enough. It is the column that is immersed in the ground, and its length is adjusted using rods. Replacement of special equipment are water pipes equipped with steel couplings.
Drilling heads must be selected depending on the nature of the soil. Here are the most commonly used: 1 - “spoon”, 2 - “coil”, 3 - “chisel”, 4 - “bailer”
The impact or soil-cutting element is the drill head. It is screwed onto the column using a threaded adapter. As the head is lowered into the soil, soil fills the drill cavities. For different types of rocks, different attachments are used: a “spoon” is suitable for soft soil, a “coil” for dense soil, and a “chisel” for hard rocks. Use a bailer to lift the loosened soil up.
To prevent the walls of the well from crumbling, casing pipes are used - as a rule, these are ordinary plastic plumbing products, lightweight and easy to install. The bottom of the pipe is a kind of shoe, which has a smooth or jagged edge at the bottom.
There are two main types of casing shoes: a – toothed (mill), b – smooth. Cutting area: 1 – teeth, 2 – smooth edge
Thus, the construction of a well takes place using special equipment, some of which can be purchased at the store, some of which you can make yourself.
Preparatory stage - construction of a pit
The top layer of soil is prone to crumbling, so the well is protected with a special structure - a pit, in other words, a hole one and a half by one and a half meters, the depth of which is no more than 2 meters. Boards are used to strengthen the walls, and they also line the floor. The strength of the floor depends on the thickness of the boards, so products no thinner than 5 cm are used. The pit is covered with a second flooring on top.
The holes for sand wells are small in size and are located at shallow depths, while the holes for artesian wells go several meters into the ground
Then prepare the holes in the following order:
- erecting a drilling rig;
- remove the top flooring;
- find the center point on the lower flooring;
- make a hole whose diameter coincides with the shoe and couplings;
- cut out a second hole - in the upper flooring.
The vertical precision created by the two guide holes guarantees high-quality drilling.
Drilling process: sequence of actions
If you prepare necessary equipment and follow the sequence of stages, there will be no questions about how to make a well correctly. The finished drilling rig is equipped with a head and a mechanism in the form of a winch. The bar is passed down through both holes, if necessary, it is extended and the collar is secured. Usually two people rotate the gate, and a third person is needed to correct the position of the bar.
If the well is shallow, then only a drill column is used, directing it down strictly vertically. A tripod with a lift is necessary for deep wells
A mark is placed on the column, retreating 60-70 cm from the top flooring. Having lowered the column to the designated distance, it is removed back, removing the rock raised along with the drill. The cleaned column is immersed in the same way several times. Greater depth requires extension of the bar. To do this, another pipe is connected using a coupling.
Depending on the stability of the soil, the drilling method is chosen - with or without casing pipes. With stable, dense soil, you can drill the entire well without using casing pipes. Crumbling rocks indicate that after 2-3 meters a pipe equipped with a shoe should be installed. The diameter of the pipe is wider than the diameter of the couplings, so the pipe enters the shaft with difficulty. Sometimes, to place it there, they use a screw or a sledgehammer.
Products for laying water pipelines are used as casing pipes - metal or polypropylene pipes of the required diameter for external work.
If rocks are crumbling, collapse should be avoided. For this purpose, the drill is not lowered too low - below the end of the casing by a certain distance. Usually it is equal to half the length of the drill. Thus, the process consists of alternating drilling and installation of casing pipes, which are built up as they go deeper.
Preparing the structure for operation
The end of drilling is the moment when the drill reaches the waterproof layer. The well is thoroughly cleaned with a bailer attachment, and a filter is installed at the bottom, which will serve as a barrier to retain mechanical impurities. The filter grid can be a metal mesh with a fine mesh or a perforated pipe with a small gap.
The well filter consists of the following parts: 1 – perforated pipe, 2 – holes of the required diameter, 3 – wire winding, 4 – metal mesh
Having equipped the inside of the well, its above-ground part is equipped and decorated. To do this, remove the boards of both floorings, dismantle the lining of the pit walls and backfill. To pump water out of a well, install. The upper part of the structure is decorated with decor. A variety of design ideas will work, from a simple head canopy to a gazebo or fake well. One option is to install a crane.
Here are two examples of how you can equip a well in your country house:
beautiful and original design wells - small decorative well made of wood, very reminiscent of the real thing. Decor design may vary
To camouflage mines, wells, boreholes, decor is made from artificial stone. In appearance it resembles a natural element - a stone or a large stump
Ways to eliminate well blockages
Groundwater, just like any other, has impurities, so over time the well will become clogged. The time for cleaning is indicated by an inconsistent flow of supplied water.
Cleaning methods are varied, using special mechanisms and substances:
- Water compressor. Sand and silt deposits are easily removed with a jet of water under pressure.
- Air compressor. Effective for removing soft particles such as sludge. Using a vacuum plug, blow through the entire length of the pipe.
- Explosion. Artificially creating a short circuit, as a result of which a bottle of gunpowder dropped to the bottom of a well explodes. The blast wave breaks the blockage.
- Acid. Use with caution as it may damage the filter or pipes. The acid is introduced into the pipe, left for two days, then the water is pumped until it is completely clean.
By installing a water well in your dacha, you can provide your home, garden and garden with required quantity water, and with low material costs.
Selection of pumping equipment to create autonomous system water supply for a private house or summer cottage is extremely wide. Modern electrified installations are capable of lifting water from great depths, supplying it from shallow wells or wells, and organizing intake from natural reservoirs. Pumps can either be installed on the surface, be a completely autonomous unit with its own automation system, or be an integral part of a single water supply station. The operational capabilities of such equipment, that is, the pressure created, productivity, power consumption and others, also lie in a wide range, at the most different variants use. In short, the range is able to satisfy the requirements of even the most discerning consumer.
It would seem - what else is needed? But all these devices have one weak point - their operation is only possible if there is a power source. Power outages can paralyze the water supply at home, and, you see, in holiday villages or in “pioneer” territories where development for private construction has just begun, instability of power grids, alas, is not a rare occurrence. So you often have to rely on a good old assistant - a manual one, who definitely won’t let you down in any situation.
A good owner will not fail to install it in any case. It does not take up much space, the price is affordable, and installation on a specially drilled well for a hand pump will provide another backup source of clean water.
How does a hand pump work?
Manual water pumps have been used by people since ancient times, and what’s interesting is that their fundamental design has remained virtually unchanged. Those who are older probably remember the usual landscape of small towns and villages, when, before the arrival of running water in every house, the main source of water was just these pumps, which served a group of buildings or even an entire block.
With the widespread use of electrical equipment, such pumps began to disappear from view, but in a private home or summer cottage they still remain in great demand due to their simplicity of design and operation, independence from the energy source and high reliability.
There are several types of hand pumps for water, differing in the features of their design. But in all types, a mandatory, one might say, the main element of the scheme, is the valve system, since with the help of muscular force it is simply impossible to create a long-term stable pressure capable of lifting water from a significant depth.
Piston hand pumps
All piston pumps have a similar layout, although outwardly they can differ greatly in their design - from simple smooth cylinders to artistic cast iron casting.
From visible details and components, you can immediately note a cylindrical body (sleeve), made of cast iron, stainless steel, and sometimes even polymer, an outlet pipe (spout), a rocker arm, hinged on an axis and connected to a vertical rod, which goes inside the pump.
Now let's look inside the pump and understand the principle of its operation:
So, the body-sleeve, which has already been mentioned (item 1). It contains a piston (item 2), which has seals around its circumference that fit tightly to the inner walls of the liner. The piston on top is rigidly connected to the rod (item 3), which, in turn, is connected to the lever of the pump rocker arm.
There is an outlet pipe cut into the housing on top (item 4) or there is simply a hole (a window for the free exit of pumped water into a pipe, gutter, etc., from where it is disassembled for consumption.
A pipe from the well (item 5), that is, a suction pipeline, approaches the pump from below. Required condition– a check valve (pos. 6) must be installed in front of the pump on this pipeline. Some industrially produced manual piston pumps already have a built-in valve of this type.
The piston itself has channels for the passage of water, but they are closed with a valve(s) that prevent water from flowing from top to bottom.
Now let's look at the three main phases of pump operation.
- The left fragment of the diagram is the pump in a calm state.
After previous use, the chamber usually remains filled with water. The valves on the piston are closed and do not allow water to go down. In addition, in closed position There is also a check valve on the suction pipeline. (For clarity, a ball check valve is shown, although poppet type devices are more commonly used.)
- The central fragment of the diagram - the user pressed the lever down.
The rocker arm transmits translational movement to the piston in the upper direction through the rod. Moving along the cylinder, the piston displaces the water located above it into the outlet pipe, and it is drained into a container placed under the column.
The valves on the piston are closed, and the flow of displaced water downwards is excluded.
Below, under the piston, a vacuum zone is simultaneously created. But “nature does not like emptiness,” and this vacuum ensures the suction of water from the well pipe into the cavity of the working cylinder. The pressure created lifts the ball check valve (or presses the poppet spring), and water fills the internal volume of the pump without interference.
- The right fragment of the picture - the piston goes down.
The cavity under the piston is filled with water pumped from the well, and when it is lowered, excess pressure is formed in it. This leads to the closing of the check valve - there is no way for water to flow down. At the same time, this pressure opens the bypass valves on the piston itself, and water flows upward, filling the above-piston cavity of the working cylinder. The completion of this phase is a return to position No. 1, and then the cycle repeats exactly.
The scheme is very simple and trouble-free, and its only weak point can be considered the fairly rapid wear of the seals on the piston, and sometimes the valve devices, especially if you have to pump water with small solid inclusions, which create an increased abrasive effect on rubber or plastic parts.
By the way, ship pumps, which were used in the sailing fleet to pump water from holds, and fire pumps to supply water from reservoirs or wells, were assembled using exactly the same principle. The difference was that usually such pumps used two working cylinders operating in antiphase - this doubled the productivity.
Sometimes some changes were made to the design of the pump, which did not change its operation in principle. For example, you can still find models that have a wheel instead of a rocker handle. The rotational movement of the wheel through the gearbox and crank mechanism is converted into reciprocating movement of the piston, and otherwise the pump operates exactly the same as described above.
The performance of piston pumps directly depends on the diameter of the working cylinder and the stroke height of the piston, and for different models it can range from 0.5 to 1.5÷2 liters per cycle. The height of water rise usually does not exceed 10 meters.
Pumps are manufactured in various options design - from strict, unobtrusive speakers to products with decorative cast iron bodies and handles weird shape– such models can become a real decoration of a site designed in a certain style.
Rod (rod) pumps
If the aquifer lies at a depth of more than 10 - 12 meters, then the piston pump may no longer be able to cope with the supply of water upward - the possibilities of the suction circuit are not unlimited. For such cases, there is a special type - rod or rod pumps.
The working body of such pumps is the same cylinder with a piston, that is, the process of pumping water is carried out approximately according to the same scheme. but there is also a fundamental difference - the pump part itself is located at a depth, directly in the thickness of the aquifer. An example diagram is shown in the figure below:
As a rule, installation of such pumps requires at least 4 inches (100 mm) of casing (item 1). The working cylinder (item 2) must be located in the thickness of the aquifer, usually so that the intake hole is at a depth of at least 1 meter from the water surface. The cylinder is connected to the upper part of the pump by a pressure pipeline (item 3). Inside of which there is a long rod-rod (item 4), which ensures the transmission of reciprocating movements to the piston. Otherwise, everything is the same: the piston has its own valve apparatus (item 5), and there is a check valve on the intake pipe of the cylinder.
It is obvious that the water supply to the top in in this case does not occur due to its absorption from depth. The cylinder below creates a column, and each working cycle this column is “propped up” by a new volume of pumped water, ensuring its exit to the outlet spout. This allows you to lift water from significant depths - up to 30 meters.
Naturally, such a pump requires more force, so the working rocker arm is usually made long, providing maximum piston stroke with minimal muscular effort.
Piston pump
Of course, such pumps are much more difficult to install and carry out maintenance and repair work. But their productivity is much higher. However, if the aquifer on the site is located at great depth, then such a device becomes the only possible option of all mechanical ones.
All piston pumps mentioned have general disadvantage– water does not move continuously, but cyclically.
Other types of hand water pumps
Much less frequently, but still sometimes, other types of hand pumps are used to pump water from households.
- Vane pump
Vane pumps are more compact and are often used for technical purposes, in production or warehouses. But they can be installed in a shallow well, about 5–7 meters.
All pumps of this type have approximately the same layout, as shown in the illustration:
The operating principle of such a pump is shown in the diagram:
The metal body (item 1) has two pipes with a flange or coupling connection - suction (item 2), through which water flows from the well, and pressure (item 3), connected to the disassembly point.
Instead of a piston, the main role in this case is played by the impeller - two oppositely located wings, moving radially in a certain range relative to the central axis. The movement is carried out due to the application of human muscular efforts to the handle (position 5), rigidly connected to the wings by a central rod-axis.
At the bottom there is a jumper (item 6), which divides the lower cavity in two. Valves are installed on the wings (pos. 7), and similar ones, but working in the opposite direction to them, are located at the entrance to the lower chamber (pos. 8).
Thus, the impeller and the lower bridge divide the pump cavity into three compartments. The upper one (“A”) is pressure, and it has a constant volume at any position of the impeller. The lower ones (“B” and “C”) are suction. Moving the handle and, accordingly, the impeller alternately changes their volume and, accordingly, creates alternating areas of rarefaction and increased pressure. The valve system is configured in such a way that it ensures the movement of water in only one direction - from the intake (suction) pipe to the outlet (pressure) pipe. Any movement of the operating handle corresponds to a certain volume of pumped liquid.
Such pumps can even be used for pumping fairly viscous liquids, but they do not like contaminated water. For a clean shallow well, this is a completely acceptable option, especially if the well is equipped, say, basement, where the requirements for compactness of pumping equipment may come to the fore. Advantage - water flows in an almost continuous flow, regardless of the direction of movement of the working handle. The disadvantage is that such pumps usually have very low efficiency.
- Diaphragm hand pump
Another type that can be found in conditions household for drawing water from a well is a diaphragm pump. All products of this type are also distinguished by their characteristic shape - a round body with a working handle located above it.
Vane pump
They can be made of metal (cast iron) or even plastic. Many models are designed for placement on the wall - they are equipped with a support platform with eyes for fasteners.
The operating principle of such a pump is simple and is well understood from the diagram below.
The pump housing (item 1) consists of two halves, which are fastened with a special screw connection (item 2). An elastic membrane is installed between the two halves of the housing (item 3).
The membrane divides the internal cavity of the pump into two chambers - the air chamber (position “A”), which in principle does not participate in the operation of the pump and is not sealed, and the water chamber (position “B”).
In the center, the membrane is connected to the rod (item 4), which, in turn, is connected to the working lever handle (item 5).
In the lower water chamber “B” there are two valves operating in antiphase. One of them, inlet (item 6) is located on the suction pipe, the second, outlet (item 7) - on the pressure pipe.
Moving the handle down causes the rod to rise, which pulls the elastic membrane along with it. A vacuum area is formed under it, and water fills the cavity of chamber “B” through the opening inlet valve. The exhaust valve is closed in this phase.
When the handle is raised, the rod lowers, and an increased pressure is created in the working cavity of the pump. The inlet valve closes, and the water has only one exit - through the opening outlet valve into the pressure pipe.
Pumps of this type allow creating a suction vacuum to lift water from a depth of, at best, up to 6 meters - you can’t expect more from them. The weak point is always the membrane - it wears out quickly, over time it can lose elasticity, and any, even a small tear in it leads to a loss of performance, water flowing through the housing, and then to complete failure of the pump. True, the maintainability of such pumps is very good. If you have a spare membrane, then replacing it will not be difficult.
However, such pumps have not become particularly widespread specifically for water supply purposes. They are more widely used for technical purposes, for example, for pumping fuels and lubricants or other liquid products from one container to another.
What to look for when choosing a hand pump?
If there is an urgent need for a hand pump, then you should know how to correctly choose the optimal model.
- First of all, the parameters of the well (depth of the aquifer) and the parameters of the pumps offered for sale are compared. As already mentioned, most hand-held models are capable of working with sources located on the forehead at least 6 ÷ 8, rarely 10 meters. If the burial is deeper, then there is no alternative: you will have to install only a sucker rod pump.
- It is important to know the performance of the pump - how much water it is capable of pumping per cycle (or per unit of time - a minute, under intense load))
- The next parameter of the planned (or existing) well - the diameter of the casing pipe, also affects the choice of pump. If the pipe has a nominal bore of 4 inches (100 mm) or more, there are no problems, and you can purchase any pump. But in the case when the casing is narrower, the rod pump may no longer be suitable - it will simply be impossible to lower its working pump assembly into the water column.
- It is necessary to know the level from the well - usually the passport characteristics of the pump indicate the permissible level with which the equipment is capable of operating.
- It would probably be worthwhile to evaluate the ease of working with the pump. It is necessary to keep in mind that among the users there may be people of advanced age or children - will their efforts be enough to collect at least a small volume of water.
- It is necessary to think about how the pump will be installed - what mounting platforms or mounting holes, brackets or lugs, etc., are available for a particular model. It is also important to know the weight of the purchased device in order to provide in advance possible ways its installation - will it be a metal welded frame, a concreted platform, a flange connection to a casing pipe coming out of the ground, wall mount or just some lightweight option for seasonal use.
- Based on the expected operating conditions, it is possible to determine design features products. So, for installation only on summer period you can buy a lightweight one plastic version. If a permanent installation is intended, then the choice is made in favor of cast iron or stainless steel. In addition, for temporary use you should purchase a model that is easy to quickly install and dismantle on your own.
- Finally, for many owners, the determining factor is also the external decorativeness of the pump - this has already been mentioned in the article. Of course, purchasing a pump that can decorate a site will entail much more serious financial costs.
The value of the pressure created by the pump is very often not assessed - such devices, as a rule, are not designed for pumping water through external pipelines. Water from them is most often collected into placed containers.
Brief overview of hand pump models for wells
The table below shows the characteristics of several popular models that can be found in the assortment of our stores.
| Model name | Illustration | Brief description of the model | average price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand pump “Dachny” | A very popular model among owners of their own plots. Piston type. Stainless steel housing. Height with fully raised rod – 750 mm. The height of the spout above the mounting level is 330 mm. The outer diameter of the cylinder is 125 mm. Provides lifting of water from wells and boreholes with a mirror located at a depth of up to 8 meters. Support platform with 10 mm mounting holes. The diameter of the suction pipe is 1 inch. Productivity per 1 cycle – 1.25 liters. The guaranteed service life of the piston seal is 3 years. Weight – 5.9 kg. | 5900 rub. | |
| Well pump "NR-3M" | Inexpensive hand pump with average performance. The cylinder and piston are impact-resistant polymer. Valves and seals are rubber. The remaining parts are primed steel. Productivity for a full cycle is 1.5 liters. Provides lift from a depth of 2 meters, and when installed at the lower end of the suction pipe of a check valve - up to 5 meters. The diameter of the connecting pipes, inlet and outlet, is G 3/4, or, in another option, fittings for a 20 mm hose. Pump dimensions – height – 350 mm, outer diameter of the cylinder – 150 mm. Weight – 4.6 kg. | 2500 rub. | |
| Well pump “RN-01 NZh” | Hand pump in stainless steel housing. Handle and lever holder – primed and painted steel. Check valve – brass. Allows you to lift water from a depth of up to 5–6 meters, and with the installation of a check valve at the end of the suction pipe – up to 9 m. Productivity – 1.0 liter per working cycle. The diameter of the pipes is G1. A flange connection to the suction pipe is possible from below. Height – 1000 mm, outside diameter cylinder – 150 mm. Weight – 8 kg. The kit includes a spare piston ring. | 6500 rub. | |
| Manual well pump type “BSD” | Cast iron manual well pump. A characteristic feature is an open spout in the form of a trough. The height of water rise is up to 6 meters, and with the installation of a check valve at the bottom of the suction pipeline - up to 9 meters. Productivity – 0.5 liters per working cycle. The installation platform has a side window, which allows the suction pipe to be brought in from the side. The connection pipe for the suction pipe is G1¼. Pump dimensions – 390 × 240 × 200 mm. The height of the spout above the installation plane is 200 mm. The diameter of the mounting holes is 7 mm. Weight – 7 kg. | 3200 rub. | |
| Hand pump type “BSB-75” | A cast iron borehole piston pump, consisting of the pump itself and a base that allows the working parts to be placed at a convenient height. The height of water rise is 6 meters, and with a check valve at the end of the suction pipe - up to 9 meters. The height of the pump assembled with the base is 1320 mm, with the height of the spout above the mounting plane being 930 mm. Weight – 31 kg. | 6800 rub. | |
| Hand pump for wells type “BSK” | Cast iron pump with decorative design artistic relief casting. It becomes not only a source of water, but also a decoration for the site. Lifting height – 6/9 (with check valve) meters. Productivity – up to 30 liters per minute. The connecting size of the suction pipe is G1¼. Pump dimensions - 600×240×160 mm. The height of the spout above the installation plane is 230 mm. The diameter of the mounting holes is 10 mm. Pump weight – 15 kg. | 6400 rub. | |
| Hand pump type "BSM" | The largest sample of manual borehole piston pumps on sale has an additional cast iron base. Fastening to the prepared site is a support flange with 10 mm holes. The connecting size of the suction pipe is G1¼. Water lift height – 6 or 9 m (with check valve). Productivity – 0.8 liters per working cycle. Height when assembled - 1560 mm. The height of the spout above the base is 1010 mm. The weight of the assembled pump is 33 kg. Comfortable ergonomic handle. Artistic casting of the body. | 14800 rub. | |
| Manual sucker rod pump "NR-4-16" | A hand pump for wells that allows you to lift water from a depth of up to 16 meters. The minimum diameter of the casing pipe is 100 mm. The kit includes 8 pieces of two-meter connecting pipes and rods for increasing the immersion depth. Pump capacity is 1 liter per operating cycle. Overall dimensions – 17560 × 230 × 1430 mm. Assembled weight – 127 kg. Fastening - to the head of a well with a diameter of 150 or 160 mm, with bolt fixation. | 27600 rub. | |
| Hand pump "RK-2" | Vane type hand pump. Cast iron body, steel working handle. The maximum height of water rise is up to 7 meters using a check valve on the suction pipeline. Productivity – 0.4 liters per double stroke of the handle. Connection – coupling or flange, 1 inch. Dimensions (including the handle) - 210×210×500 mm. Weight – 8.5 kg. There are lugs for wall mounting. | 5500 rub. | |
| Manual diaphragm pump “D40” | Diaphragm type pump, self-priming. The maximum height of water rise is up to 6 meters. Productivity – up to 50 liters per minute. The body and pipes are cast iron, the membrane and valve parts are oil- and petrol-resistant rubber. Ball valves are wear-resistant and self-cleaning. The operating position of the pump is vertical, with the handle down. For fastening to vertical surfaces, there are eyelets on the body. Dimensions - 250×250×650 mm. Weight – 13.5 kg. When purchasing, it is recommended to immediately purchase additional replacement membranes and valves. | 7200 rub. Replacement membrane – 1500 rub. Ball valve assembly - 500 rub. |
How to construct a well for a hand pump
It would be logical to conclude this publication by considering the question of which well hand water pumps are most often installed.
A very common situation is when a plot acquired for private construction does not yet have any communications, and a natural reservoir is located too far away to organize a water supply from it. But water is needed not only for drinking or washing - it is still quite possible to take a small supply with you for these purposes. But water is, in a certain sense of the word, also a “building material”, since many construction operations involve its use in one capacity or another.
The most reasonable solution is to try to organize an “Abyssinian” well on your site. If this succeeds, then the water problem will be completely removed - a good “Abyssinian” will satisfy construction, and then, after settlement, many household or agricultural needs.
What is its meaning? If you look at the diagrams of sections of soil layers, you can often see the following picture:
Under the layer fertile soil Usually there is a clay layer. “The floor below” is sandy loam, and under it is a layer of sand saturated with water - perched water. This is the first water horizon, but it is unsuitable for useful use. Firstly, the water here is highly saturated with organic matter and other contaminants that fall on the soil, and secondly, this layer is extremely unstable, and is highly dependent on both the time of year and the prevailing weather.
Below, underneath there is a water-resistant clay layer, but if you go through it, then there is a high probability of getting into the horizon of aquiferous sand, located at a depth of about 5 - 8 meters.. The water in it has already undergone high-quality natural filtration, and, as a rule, it is quite suitable for a wide variety of applications.
If this layer is thick enough and well saturated with water, then you can immerse a thin pipe with perforated walls covered with a filter mesh into it so that the channel does not become clogged with sand. Water will penetrate into the cavity of the pipe, and from there it can be pumped out with the same hand-held well pump.
The main element of the “Abyssinian” well is the so-called “needle”. This is a piece of pipe about 1200 mm long, with holes drilled in the walls, which are covered with a thin metal stack (galvanized or stainless steel). At the end of the needle, a cone-shaped tip machined from durable metal is welded - it is necessary for driving the needle into a drilled hole.
The driven needle is gradually expanded by “packing” on top of sections of pipes of the same diameter and driven to the required depth. From above, to the part of the pipe protruding from the outside, after carrying out the necessary “commissioning” operations, you can connect a pump - manual or even surface electric.
On sale you can find kits for “Abyssinian” wells, of various overall lengths, with a diameter of 1, 1 ¼ or 1 ½ inches.
The probability of getting into a high-quality shallow sand aquifer is extremely high. By the way, this technology even got its name because expeditionary troops in Abyssinia (Ethiopia) were supplied with water using a similar method. And this is in a hot, almost semi-desert climate!
How to find the optimal location for a well or borehole?
Specialists come to the rescue in finding the aquifer folk signs and methods, analysis of obvious and hidden signs of close water occurrence. You can learn more about this by reading the article on our portal dedicated to.
The scheme for creating an “Abyssinian” well is, in principle, simple and proven, but the main snag is drilling a well and getting to the aquifer. It is almost impossible to do this without special equipment. It is better not to take on such a task yourself, but to invite a team of craftsmen who have a special compact drilling rig and have relevant experience. Moreover, when drilling, it is necessary to make sure by certain signs that a full-fledged aquifer has been encountered, and without practice in this matter, it is not surprising to make a mistake and ruin the purchased kit.
For example, the process of creating “ Abyssinian well»:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The typical picture is a development area, without any “benefits of civilization.” Someday there will be a lively village here, but for now there is no water or electricity. It’s difficult to build without water, so the decision was made to build an “Abyssinian” well. |
 | The team's usual equipment is a compact drilling rig. The design may vary slightly, but usually it is a frame with two vertical guides along which a caliper with an electric drive and gear moves. A 1 meter long drill is inserted into the gearbox and secured with a pin - and drilling begins. Power supply is provided by a mobile gasoline generator. |
 | The drill gradually “bites” into the soil. |
 | The passage of soil layers can be judged by the rock lifted upward by the auger. In the beginning it is fertile soil |
 | The drill went almost a meter deep. Passes through a layer of loam and clay. |
 | The drill has almost completely sunk into the ground, and it’s time to build it up. First, the pin that secures the drill in the gearbox coupling is knocked out. |
 | The installation support rises up, and a new section is inserted into the lower drill. |
 | The connection is ensured by a special clamp-bracket. |
 | Then the caliper is carefully lowered so that the gearbox coupling fits onto the installed drill. The connection is fixed with a pin. |
 | Next, the drilling process continues. All links have a standard length of 1 meter, and this is very convenient from the point of view that you can clearly see how deep the drilling has reached. |
 | Accumulating selected rock is regularly removed to the side |
 | Drilling continues in the same order - with a gradual increase in the total length of the drill. As you deepen, the first signs of water will begin to appear. At first they will be almost invisible - just lumps of slightly moistened clay. |
 | At a depth of about 5 meters, the signs become more clear - liquefied light clay begins to rise to the top. |
 | The deeper, the thinner, and soon the selected liquid rock has to be scooped out with a ladle |
 | Another meter - and the slurry is literally flowing like a stream: this is clearly the beginning of an aquifer. |
 | At this time, the master constantly checks the emerging pulp by touch. It is important to catch when there are no signs of clay left in it, but clean, fine sand. |
 | Finally, the master is satisfied with the result. The number of drills used for drilling tells him exactly the depth of the well - this will be necessary for further operations. In the meantime, you need to carefully remove the drills from the well. The electric drive with gearbox is removed from the caliper. Now moving up along the guides will be used to gradually pull out the drill. The drill is locked with a special bracket, and by moving the caliper up, it is pulled out by one section. |
 | The section is separated from the one below and removed to the side. |
 | The caliper goes down, the next section is engaged - and so on until everything is removed, until the very bottom drill. |
 | Here it is, a well, although for now it’s just a hole in the ground. The drilling rig is carefully moved to the side - it has already fulfilled its role. |
 | You can move on to casing. To begin with, a “needle” is prepared. |
 | It is carefully “packed” with pipes using couplings. To ensure connection reliability, it is better to use flax tow and Unipac paste. You can immediately assemble a “column” from a needle and 5 ÷ 6 meters of pipe. As a rule, such a section enters the well “with a whistle”, without much effort. The only difficulty is to give it a vertical position at first, but with several hands it can be done. |
 | Here it is, the end of the casing protruding on the surface. But according to the depth of the well, the pipe must be lowered another approximately one and a half meters. |
 | Another one and a half meter piece of pipe is packed on top. |
 | As far as possible, it sinks down through the efforts of workers. |
 | The last section of the deepening always has to be hammered in by force, using a headstock or other devices - craftsmen have their own methods for this. When driven, the needle tip will enter dense soil and securely fix the casing in the well. |
 | When hammering, it is very important not to damage the threaded section of the pipe at the end. Various devices are used, and in this case a special coupling was screwed onto the end, which took the blows, leaving the thread intact. In fact, here it is, a finished well. But for now it is of little use - it is necessary to “breathe life into the well, that is, pump it, achieving a stable supply of water to the top. |
 | This is best done using a self-priming surface pump. A pressure hose is screwed onto the pipe - at this stage it will be connected to the pressure pipe of the pump. |
 | The second suction arm of the pump is lowered into a bucket, which is filled with water. |
 | Now the task is to pump a good portion of water into the well, so that when it is pumped out, it will cause the effect of self-filling of the needle with water from the surrounding aquifer sand. Water from the bucket (depending on the depth - more may be required) is completely pumped into the well. |
 | Next comes switching hoses. The suction one is screwed onto the head of the pipe, and the pressure one is temporarily directed into the bucket. The pump is turned on, and at first clean water comes out of the sludge. It’s too early to rejoice - it’s just that the previously filled water has been pumped out. |
 | As a rule, after this there is a painful pause: the pump works, but nothing comes out of the hose. “Moment of Truth” - will it work or not? It should work! After several “spits”, water begins to come out of the hose - at first it is cloudy and dirty. |
 | It is advisable at this stage to switch the short pressure hose on the pump to a long hose. It will take quite a long time to pump the well, and there is no need to spread dirt around it - better water drain away. At first, the flow of water looks, I must say, somewhat frightening - it is so muddy. |
 | But the well works – and that’s the main thing. Gradually, the dirt around the needle is washed upward, and the flow of water begins to lighten. Wait a little longer and it will become clean, that is, the well is ready for further use. |
 | Victory! An uninterrupted source of clean water has been obtained on the site! |
Now it’s quite simple. All that remains is to attach a downhole hand pump to the threaded head of the pipe, not forgetting to put a check valve between them. If there is an urgent need for water, you can install a pump on a quick fix, directly connecting to the pipe and placing it on temporary supports or a welded stand.
Over time, of course, a good owner will carefully consider the stationary installation of the pump, with full fixation of the protruding section of the pipe, with a beautiful and reliable pedestal. And it is best at this stage to immediately provide a branch for the surface electric pump ().
Now the most will be achieved optimal solution: the main water supply to a residential building will be provided. Well, for gardening, household work, or in cases of problems with the power supply, it will be quite possible to get by with the capabilities of a manual well pump.
And at the end of the publication, for those who always try to make everything on their own, we offer an interesting video in which a home craftsman shares his experience in making a hand pump for a well.
Video: experience self-made borehole hand pump
