What is the best way to decarbonize the engine? Engine decarbonization: the essence and correct instructions on how to do it yourself. Checking the condition of the rings

Daily use of a car in urban conditions is a serious test even for the most modern engine. Constant switching of start/stop modes, use of low-grade Supplies and an unscheduled oil change are factors that can lead to the need for an urgent engine decarbonization procedure.

If a car has been used in a metropolis for more than a year, a large amount of carbon deposits will inevitably accumulate in its combustion chamber. Carbon deposits also form on the pistons under the rings and on the oil scraper rings. The formation of carbon deposits causes the rings to lose their former mobility and cease to perform their main task, namely, to remove oil from the cylinder walls. This leads to the fact that more and more oil ends up with the fuel in the combustion chamber. As a result, more carbon deposits are formed, the rings begin to coke more strongly and cease to function altogether, which begins to lead the car engine to the need for immediate major repairs.

Causes of coking of combustion chamber elements and the main signs of soot formation

Carbon coating of the combustion chamber and oil scraper rings is a process that does not occur on its own. There are several main reasons that lead to the formation of carbon deposits and the need for urgent engine decarbonization:

If the vehicle is operated continuously, and the above problems have not arisen, coking of the piston rings and other elements of the combustion chamber may occur when the vehicle’s mileage approaches 100 thousand kilometers. Determining the presence of carbon deposits on oil scraper rings, pistons and cylinders is quite simple using the following indicators:

• There is a decrease in one or more engine cylinders;
• Oil consumption has increased - the car consumes more than 300 grams of oil per 1000 kilometers;
• It comes from the exhaust pipe.

If the indicators described above begin to manifest themselves, it is necessary to decarbonize the engines as quickly as possible. Operating a car with carbon deposits on oil scraper rings and other elements of the cylinder-piston group seriously increases wear of parts. If decoking is not carried out in time, microcracks may form on the pistons, cylinders and other parts, and the problem can only be solved through a major engine overhaul.

Decarbonizers: LAVR, XADO or our own production from kerosene

Automotive chemicals do not always have a “tricky” composition, and quite often you can do it yourself using improvised means. This statement fully applies to means for decarbonizing piston rings and other combustion chamber parts. Making your own decoking agent is quite simple; to do this, you need to mix acetone and kerosene in a 2 to 1 ratio. If you decide to prepare a liquid for cleaning combustion chamber elements yourself, you should assume that you will need about 150 ml of it per cylinder.

There are dozens of specialized tools on sale for performing engine decarbonization. The most famous are LAVR and XADO, which gained their popularity due to their low price and good properties. Their composition is a little more complicated than just mixed acetone and kerosene, but the cost of such products is appropriate.

When choosing a decarbonizer, it is important to look at how many cylinders one tube is designed for. Most often, manufacturers produce such “chemicals” in small tubes of 10-15 milliliters. One such tube is used for one engine cylinder. Also, when purchasing a decarbonizer, you need to pay attention to the type of engine for which it is used - gasoline or diesel.

Engine decarbonization is a simple process that even a novice car enthusiast can handle. It is advisable to perform it in a garage on a lift or pit, since the procedure involves draining the oil while cleaning the combustion chamber parts from the deposits that have formed. Below we have given in detail the process of engine decarbonization and the procedures that need to be performed in order for the cleaning to be as effective as possible.

Engine decarbonization: procedure

Before you start decoking the engine, you need to warm up the engine a little. Start the car and let it idle for 5-10 minutes until it warms up enough, then turn off the engine and proceed with the instructions described below. A slight heating of the motor is necessary so that the product can better cope with existing carbon deposits. At the same time, it is not recommended to decarbonize immediately after a long trip, since the product poured into hot cylinders will instantly evaporate and the desired effect will not be achieved.

Engine decarbonization is carried out according to the following plan:

1. Remove the high-voltage wires and unscrew all the spark plugs, while it is advisable to remember in what order they were tightened;
2. Next, remove the low-voltage wires from the coils;
3. Drain the engine oil into a separate container and screw the oil plug into place;
4. Pour decoking agent into the cylinders that require cleaning. It is recommended to clean all cylinders simultaneously;
5. Next, lightly tighten the spark plugs (so that the poured product evaporates less) and leave the car for 6 to 12 hours;
6. After the specified time, unscrew the spark plugs. Attention: It is necessary to unscrew it carefully so that the decoking agent, which does not go into the crankcase, as well as carbon residues, does not splash in the engine compartment;
7. Next, unscrew the oil plug and drain the liquid formed from the decoking agent and carbon deposits;
8. After this, fill the engine with the oil that was drained in step 3 of the instructions;
9. Now you need to crank the engine “on the starter” for 5-10 seconds. Attention: This is done without an ignition coil and spark plugs. This procedure is necessary so that when starting the engine with installed ignition elements, water hammer does not occur;
10. Next, make sure that there is nothing left in the cylinders, screw the spark plugs into place and connect all the connectors, after which you can start the engine.

To clean the cylinder-piston group as much as possible from traces of carbon deposits, you need to get behind the wheel of a car and drive it a little, periodically raising the speed to 4 thousand. After 15-20 minutes of trips, return to the pit or lift to change the oil and oil filter for new ones. Attention: When driving with old oil, immediately after decoking, thick white smoke will come out of the car's exhaust pipe. This situation is considered the norm, but it is better to choose places for travel where there are no traffic police officers, otherwise there is a high risk of running into a fine.

Drivers can be conditionally divided into two categories, the first category includes drivers who know what engine decarbonization is, the second category includes those drivers who have never even heard of such a concept.

Who is it for?

Engine decarbonization is directly related to car engine repair, as well as increasing its mileage to the Kyrgyz Republic, so if the driver has a passion for technology, a person likes to work on his car, maintain it and repair it, then such a concept is not strange to him.

And, as a rule, such a driver drives either an old foreign car or a domestic car.

People who drive expensive foreign cars, who are accustomed to being serviced only at car repair shops, and who know only one step in servicing a car is handing over the ignition key to a mechanic, are unlikely to be familiar with engine decarbonization, and are unlikely to ever want to understand this topic.

Therefore, our article is more focused on ordinary drivers and we hope that it will be useful for them.

Definition

By decoking an engine we mean removing deposits in it in the form of coke or soot that gradually appear on the surface of its parts during operation over a certain period of time.

The reason for this phenomenon lies in the specifics of the engine itself and its operating modes.

Specifics of the functioning of any engine internal combustion Everyone knows this is the use of fuels and lubricants in the form of fuel and oil in the course of their work.

The source of carbon deposits in the engine is gasoline, diesel fuel and oil.

Causes of engine coking

The main source of engine coking is oil, followed by fuel.

The main ways for oil to penetrate into the combustion chamber are micro-slits in the oil scraper rings, through which oil enters this chamber, settles there on the cylinder walls, and under the influence of high temperatures gradually cokes.

The higher quality the engine oil and the newer the engine, the slower this process.

Fuel mainly enters the combustion chamber along the intake valve stems and flows into it when the piston sucks the air-fuel mixture into the cylinders.

There is very little such fuel, but over time this also affects the coking of the engine.

Used engine

An example with a new engine was considered above. When a car already has a significant mileage of 90 - 100 thousand km, not only the oil scraper rings wear out, but also the entire cylinder-piston group, and accordingly the process of coke formation in the engine accelerates.

Do not forget about the gas distribution mechanism, a similar situation.

As a rule, the symptoms of all this are manifested in the appearance of smoke with a special smell from the exhaust pipe and oily spark plugs. Here you can safely say not “God help you”, but “A good mechanic can help you.”

To draw the right conclusions yourself, pay attention to the following important points:

1. Oil consumption > 300 g. at 1000 km, while the mileage of a domestic car did not exceed 100,000 km, foreign cars - 200,000;
2. Oil reflective caps allow oil to pass through (signs: there is oil on the threads of the spark plugs, and the exhaust pipe smokes when the gas is changed suddenly.

The oil seals are just being replaced. But it’s better not to do it yourself the first time.

Other causes of engine coking:

1. Frequent engine overheating (the reasons may be different) - more details;
2. The engine idles very often;
3. Constant urban cycle of vehicle operation;
4. Using low-quality motor oil or oil that is not suitable for the engine type;
5. Long-term parking of a car without operation (penalty area, parking in winter, after an accident, long-term repairs, etc.).

Cylinder-piston group

Let's look at the CPG in more detail.

When the cylinder-piston group of an engine is worn out, then you have two options, either to overhaul it with a complete replacement of pistons, rings, etc. or by decoking the engine, extend its operation for several tens of thousands of kilometers of the car.

This could be 50, 60.70 thousand additional kilometers before the engine is overhauled, depending on the complexity of the problem.

If you don't decarbonize

As noted above, the purpose of engine decoking is the maximum elimination of coked and soot-covered parts of its cylinder-piston group.

Most important details are pistons, compression and oil scraper rings and the grooves under them.

The carbon deposits that form in the grooves under the rings prevent them from being tightly in place and adhering tightly to the cylinder walls, and this leads to the impossibility of high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder walls.

If oil gets into the combustion chamber too much, the amount of carbon deposits in the cylinders increases in direct proportion, and later the rings simply get stuck.

Therefore, if you have not yet decided to fully major renovation engine, but if you want your car to still “run,” you will have to decarbonize the engine.

Let's get started

There are two main ways to perform such work, and both methods involve the use of special chemical compounds and additives, but different technological processes. There are other methods, but they are more complex, and we will not consider them.

First way

It involves filling the cylinders with special chemical composition, in order to loosen the carbon deposits and subsequently remove it from there.

Filling occurs through spark plugs or through injectors. This method helps very well when the rings are completely coked and there is a problem with starting the engine.

It is advisable before decoking.

Work order:

1. Warm up the engine to 70 - 90 degrees;
2. We unscrew the spark plugs, if it is a diesel engine, then the injectors;
3. Jack up the drive wheels (don’t forget to put “shoes” under the wheels);
4. We turn on the last gear;
5. We rotate the drive wheel and ensure that the pistons are approximately in the middle position (for diagnostics, you can use a long screwdriver);
6. We pour into each cylinder about 25 - 80 ml (depending on the volume of the cylinder) of a special “autochemistry” for decarbonization, many recommend LAVR ML-202, there are other options;
7. Screw the spark plugs back in;
8. Wait 60 – 120 minutes. During this time it happens chemical reaction interaction of auto chemicals with carbon deposits and its further decomposition. In order to speed up the process and achieve the best result, every 20 minutes turn the drive wheel to the right and left by 15 degrees, making 5 swings in both directions. This will help you better penetration liquid into rings. In the future, to get a better result and if the case is very severe, the car can be left overnight;
9. Unscrew the spark plugs or injectors;
10. Using a syringe, we pump out the remaining dirty liquid from each cylinder;
11. De-energize;
12. Place a clean rag on the spark plug holes;
13. We check that the drive wheels are jacked up and whether the last gear is engaged;
14. We crank the engine with the starter for 10 seconds and “expel” the remaining dirty liquid from the cylinders;
15. We install the old spark plugs back, connect the power to the ignition and start the car.

The car will be difficult to start and this is normal. Also, don’t be alarmed by the nasty smell of exhaust gases. Run without load for up to 10 minutes and try to drive.

As a rule, acrid smoke will still be emitted up to 20 km. After a run of 20 km, replace the old spark plugs with new ones.

After 40 - 50 km, be sure to change the oil, since it is no longer the same oil that was before decoking, and it will negatively affect the condition of the engine rubber products, which in the near future will be corroded by the “autochemicals” that got into the oil.

And after 200 - 300 km, re-measure the compression and compare it with previous measurements (the rings will just separate).

The readings may not differ much, but the main thing is that there is not a large scatter in the compression readings of each cylinder. Also, after 300 km, start monitoring oil consumption.

Flaws this method:

1. You have to change the engine oil, and this is an additional expense;
2. Replacing old spark plugs with new ones is also an expense;
3. High probability of rings bursting. This applies to rings that are stuck or heavily coked. After the work has been carried out, they become more mobile and the metal cannot withstand it;
4. Time is wasted.

The second method of engine decarbonization

This method is less labor-intensive, less financially expensive and does not take up any time. The greater effectiveness of this method compared to the first is debatable, but it all depends on the drug used.

It is better to decarbonize the engine in a timely manner. In many cases, it makes it possible not to bring the engine to major repairs, which are not cheap. Decarbonization is essentially cleaning it from carbon deposits that arise during operation. This problem is faced by drivers who own cars with high mileage. The condition of the engine is also greatly influenced by the quality of the materials used. lubricants and fuel. Therefore, you should not save when selecting oils and fuel for refueling your car, as this will lead to expensive repairs.

The need to decarbonize the engine

This process involves cleaning carbon deposits from the piston ring grooves. Such work can be performed in a variety of ways and can be full or part-time. The need for decarbonization is determined by certain signs in the operation of the engine:

• The appearance of dense black or bluish smoke.
• Significant increase in fuel consumption.
• Problems starting the engine.
• Reduced motor power.

The main reason for the appearance of carbon deposits in the fuel chamber and on the valves is long work engine at low speeds, during long and frequent standing in city traffic jams. Driving with an insufficiently warmed-up engine or using low-quality motor oil or fuel will lead to the same result. Soot occurs due to partial combustion of the combustible mixture, then the situation is complicated by the action of carbon particles in the exhaust gases. A lot of soot is formed due to coking of the engine.

If the above symptoms occur, many auto repair shops recommend doing a major overhaul of the engine, which is an expensive and complex job.

If you decarbonize, it often helps recovery normal operation motor and solving other problems. Such work will cost much less and require less time.

Decarbonization is not a solution to absolutely all problems, but only makes it possible to partially extend engine performance. It is usually customary to perform such work in the fall or spring to prepare the car for the change of season. Previously, drivers usually did this work themselves. Currently, drivers of modern cars most often use the services of car service specialists. This is more due to the emergence of new engine models in which it is difficult to reach the injectors or spark plugs.

The following parameters depend on the condition of the oil scraper rings:

• Level of harmful emissions of exhaust gases.
• Engine fuel and oil consumption.
• Power of the power unit.

Each engine element plays an important role in its operation, so it is necessary to regularly check the functionality of the oil scraper rings.

The main purpose of oil scraper rings is to remove heat from the piston. If the heat is not removed, this will lead to negative consequences on which the operation of the engine will depend; it may jam. The consequences may be burnout and piston scuffing. In addition to heat removal, the combustion chamber is sealed and the moving parts in the cylinder are lubricated, which prevents parts from overheating during friction and their rapid wear.

If we take into account today's prices for spare parts, it will cost much less periodic inspection the condition of the rings rather than replacing the piston group.

Before considering malfunctions and methods for decoking rings, you should familiarize yourself with design features oil removal rings. One-piece rings are no longer used on modern cars, and some models are no longer produced. Their increased rigidity makes them inapplicable for high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder, since the rings do not adhere well to the surface.

Nowadays, rings consisting of several parts are mainly produced. The three-piece rings include two steel plates and coil springs. They are most often used on gasoline engines. Among all the advantages, one can note its best fit to the surface of the cylinder over its entire area. The design of the rings, consisting of two elements, includes a ring and a spring. The good flexibility of the spring allows the ring to fit well to the cylinder. The tightness of the spring ensures the integrity of the entire structure.

Reasons for ring coking

During engine operation, the combustible mixture burns partially, which contributes to the accumulation of combustion products in the cylinder cavity. When using low-quality fuel, the piston rings coke much faster. The quality of the engine oil also affects ring coking.

1. Failure of the oil reflecting caps leads to the penetration of engine oil into the combustion chamber. In this case, the valve stem seals should be replaced, which will significantly increase engine compression, resulting in an increase in its power.
2. Coking of the piston rings leads to oil penetration into the cylinders. When oil burns, carbon deposits form, leading to a decrease in compression.

To solve such problems in the retail network, there are various specialized means, which can be purchased at auto stores. They are called decarbonizers.

Piston rings work intensively, which causes their wear. Standard rings wear out after 200 thousand kilometers, but when correct operation the engine of a new set of rings can last for 500 thousand km. The quality of the engine oil and failure to replace it negatively affect the condition of the piston rings and can lead to sticking in the piston grooves. When driving frequently in dusty areas, the air and fuel filters must be in good condition. To do this, it is necessary to periodically inspect the filters.

There are many signs that determine the need to replace rings or repair an engine:

• Dirty spark plugs.
• The gaskets and seals are black with oil, even though they were recently replaced.
• Formation of bluish smoke when the car starts to move.
• Oil consumption has increased significantly.

If any signs of wear appear, you should first check the condition of the piston rings. To check the valve stem seals, it is necessary to disconnect the engine ventilation pipe. If observed high pressure in the crankcase, this means wear of the oil seals, which requires their immediate replacement.

Engine decarbonization methods

• Partial decarbonization. Experts call this method soft. Before changing the engine oil, a special agent is added to its composition. Then oil is poured into the engine and driven for some distance without loading the engine too much. It is not recommended to drive at high speeds. After 200 km the oil is changed. This is a simple and inexpensive method. In this case, only certain parts of the engine are cleaned, but the combustion chamber is not cleaned. This is more of a preventive measure carried out when changing the oil.
• Complete decarbonization. This method is tough and allows you to clean the engine most efficiently. However, doing such work requires a lot of time. The machine must be installed on a lift or pit in a horizontal position. The engine is warmed up to operating parameters.

There are many different ways engine decarbonizers, which are used at service stations. We will look at the most popular and reliable way- complete decarbonization.

1. Before decoking, the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature.
2. Unscrew the spark plugs.
3. Using a jack, raise the drive wheel and set the gear to overdrive. Next, you need to rotate the wheel until the pistons are in the middle position. You can use a screwdriver to determine their position.
4. In this case, we will use a tool called “SURM”. It is used by many masters and is considered quite effective. You need to take 25 milligrams of this product into a syringe and inject it into the cylinder through the spark plug mounting hole. This process is done for each cylinder.
5. After pouring the product, you must wait 15 minutes for the carbon deposits to dissolve. During this time, you need to turn the wheel a little so that the liquid penetrates the rings. The wheel turns every three minutes. In this case, no extra turns are required.
6. Disconnect middle wire distributor and fix its contacts at a distance of several mm from the engine housing. This will prevent the ignition coil from malfunctioning.
7. Turn on neutral speed and turn the starter for about 10 seconds. So it is necessary to force the flushing agent out of the cylinders. This is very important point, since the presence of liquid in the cylinders when starting the engine can lead to water hammer, which in turn will lead to damage to engine parts.
8. Install the spark plugs in their places and start the engine. At first, the exhaust gases will emit an unpleasant odor, but this will quickly pass.

The engine should idle for about 15 minutes. After this you can start moving. After driving 200 kilometers, you can check the oil consumption by comparing the new readings with the old ones, the difference should be obvious.

Decarbonizers

If carbon deposits occur in the cylinders, it should be removed quickly. For this procedure, various chemical reagents are used. Most effective way is pouring a special chemical reagent into the engine cylinder.

These methods are the simplest, but experts do not recommend their use. However, many car owners use this simple method by adding the purchased product to fuel or oil. Often this method gives results.

The most commonly used liquid is SURM, as it has proven its effectiveness for a long time. The product is domestic, so it is easy to purchase at any auto supply store. Its main advantage is that after decarbonization, an oil change is not required.

There are other products that are no less effective, but after them you need to change the oil to a new one, and this requires additional financial costs.

Using the domestic product SURM, we get:

• Reducing the amount of harmful exhaust gases.
• Reducing engine oil and fuel consumption.
• Increased engine power.

Modern developments by scientists compete with each other, providing great opportunities for the buyer. All chemical reagents have their own parameters and characteristics, price, composition, and method of application.

Each chemical has instructions for use, so we will look at brief parameters and properties of popular decarbonizers.

• "Lavr ML-202" is a Russian product, one of the most widely used chemicals for cleaning piston rings. An excellent option that gives good results at a low price. Used as Hado for prophylactic purposes. Normalizes compression, cleans rings and grooves, as well as the walls of combustion chambers. Once in the cylinder, the liquid turns into a vapor state, and clears carbon deposits in 1 hour.
• "Liqui Molly OiI-Schlamm-Spulung" is practically an effective additive for the lubrication system. Tests have not confirmed its sufficient effectiveness.
• “Vince” is a product that cleans the intake manifold, regulates compression, cleans the grooves of the piston rings, ensures the necessary mobility of the valves and removes vibration. To use it, special tools are required. Produces good results when all instructions are met.
• "Hado Antikoks" shows very good results in all characteristics, but it has a high price.

If you have little experience in car maintenance and you are not confident in the success of decarbonizing the rings, then it is better to contact a car repair shop.

The old one has been used for a long time effective method, the secrets of which we will share here. To do this, prepare a simple product consisting of two components: kerosene and acetone. Their ratios can vary depending on desire, but most often three parts of acetone and one part of kerosene are used. Some home craftsmen say that you need to add more oil, but in this case there will be no benefit from it. The amount of the product received is 300 grams for the entire engine.

After preparing the special product, you can begin decoking. First, unscrew the spark plugs. In this case, the engine must be warm. This prepared mixture is poured into the cylinders. This procedure is prohibited on a hot engine, since acetone may boil when elevated temperature, which will lead to it splashing out and falling on paintwork bodies and chemical-sensitive areas.

Next, the candles are put in place and waited for about 12 hours. Then unscrew the spark plugs again and turn the starter for 15-20 seconds to drive them out. excess liquid from cylinders. If the spark plugs are not unscrewed, the spark plugs will become very dirty.

Before cranking the engine with the starter with the spark plugs removed, you need to turn off the spark supply to the high-voltage wires by removing the central wire from the distributor or from the ignition coil.

When purging the cylinders, you should cover the engine with some material to protect the paintwork from contact with caustic liquid.

At the end of the entire process, you need to start the engine and drive a little at different speeds. At the same time, it is not recommended to drive near traffic police posts, as they may find the smoky exhaust suspicious. This procedure is carried out to consolidate the effect: fill in new oil, preferably cheap, then immediately drain it. Replace the oil filter. After this, you can enjoy driving your car.

How to get rid of carbon deposits with water

Many skilled drivers have learned to use water to remove carbon deposits. This method is not inferior in efficiency to conventional standard methods with chemical reagents. Consider this original way more details.

Necessary materials

To perform this cheap method, you need to prepare the following materials:

• Medical dropper.
• Thin plastic or rubber hose.
• Two liters of distilled water.
• Tee for connecting the washer.

Distilled water must be prepared in a plastic bottle.

Procedure

1. Connect the hose from the distilled water bottle to the suction pump. It is convenient to use a dropper for this. If you can’t get distilled water, you can use regular water; the dropper will filter it.
2. When the engine reaches a rotation speed of 2000 rpm, you need to start supplying water.
3. Approximately two drops should be delivered per second. They enter the cylinder at idle and are able to clean carbon deposits.

As a result, carbon deposits will be cleaned, and the engine will operate more dynamically and economically.

Features of decarbonization

Fuel in the modern period has improved significantly compared to the stagnant period. However, this does not protect the engine from the formation of carbon deposits on the piston rings. The situation is the same with motor oil: many drivers say that the oil in Soviet times was of very high quality. This may be true, but today not a single master will say that when using it, carbon deposits do not form in the cylinders. Due to the formation of persistent deposits, major repairs will sometimes still have to be performed.

Myths about decoking

Cleaning rings and pistons in an engine always causes a lot of controversy among mechanics and drivers. different ages. Let's look at certain misconceptions that are often encountered.

1. If you use special additives to decarbonize piston rings, the carbon deposits will disappear completely. This is an incorrect statement, since complete cleaning requires the use of a very caustic concentrated product that can corrode engine parts. Excessive engine cleanliness is not required for engine operation.
2. Decarbonization can be performed on a cold engine. Warming up the engine before this process is mandatory, otherwise a positive result will not be achieved.
3. The operating principle of cleaning products is different for each brand of engine. This is also a misconception, since all repair work is carried out in the same way, according to the usual procedure. Therefore, there is no need to look for special products for gasoline or diesel engines. The only limitation is that decarbonization cannot be carried out in winter.
4. The price for decarbonizers is very high. Only beginners say this; chemical reagents are not expensive compared to the price of a major engine overhaul. There are also many domestic manufacturers of piston ring cleaning products that have good quality and low cost.
5. Only XADO and LAVR products are the only methods for cleaning the engine. This is an incorrect statement. Of course, such anti-cokes have a good effect on the condition of the engine cylinders, but such products can only be used for small-displacement conventional engines.
6. Modern engines do not require decoking. All automotive equipment is operated in different conditions, and also in winter. This plays an important role in the occurrence of soot. Modern engines are no exception, and in this regard they are no different from old engines.

There are chemicals that do not require removing the spark plugs. The most popular of them was “Edial”. The method of its use is simple: the product is poured into the fuel tank before refueling.

How to protect your engine from carbon deposits

In order not to deal with carbon deposits, it is better to try to prevent it. You will spend much less money and save your nerves. To do this, you need to follow some recommendations:

• Use special additives.
• Change the oil periodically.
• Warm up the engine before driving, especially in cold weather.
• Operate the car more often and do not sit idle in traffic jams.
• Do not drive at low engine speeds.

If a car consumes oil and fuel above the prescribed value, then decarbonization cannot be avoided - you need to apply one of the methods discussed and put the car's engine in order.

If the engine wear is very high, then decarbonization will no longer help, but will only harm. The engine passes a large amount of gasoline, and it does not burn. Unburned fuel and oil in the cylinder, as well as other substances, form deposits on the piston rings. But with minor wear and tear, the life of the motor will extend slightly. The question of choosing a decarbonization method often arises. When it is necessary to clean the engine from carbon deposits, you should choose the method that is most convenient for you and fits the parameters.

We have looked at a large number of methods for decarbonizing engines, and you can easily choose the required type of cleaning procedure.

All internal engine elements operate in a fairly aggressive environment, which leads to the layering of a large amount of combustion products or, more simply, coke on them. This phenomenon negatively affects the operation of the engine, often manifesting itself as low compression. Often, car owners manage to delay expensive engine overhauls by carrying out regular decarbonization.

Of course, the event is not particularly labor-intensive, but to carry it out competently and get a real effect, it is advisable to know some of the nuances. In today's material, our resource will consider the question of what is the best way to decarbonize an engine and how this procedure is carried out correctly.

The danger of using a coked engine

As noted earlier, Engine coking is the process of excessive layering of coke (carbon deposits) on the working surfaces. Compression rings, cylinders, pistons and other elements of the CPG are most susceptible to this phenomenon. It is worth understanding that the operating conditions of such engine parts are extremely aggressive, so it is impossible to avoid coking - sooner or later you will have to clean them.

Carrying out decarbonization is “vitally” important for the engine, since without its implementation fatal defects often occur. The most serious problems caused by engine coking are the following:

• a drop in compression, and therefore power, as well as an increase in consumption and serious losses in dynamics;
• excessive contamination of the lubricant (oil), since it is this that washes out a considerable amount of coke and further distributes it throughout the engine;
• accelerated wear of the CPG and a number of other engine elements.

By not decarbonizing in time, the driver risks “killing” his engine to such an extent that restoring it to normal condition will be quite expensive. Don't forget this.

Engine coking: causes and signs of occurrence

It is clear that a perfectly clean engine from the inside is something out of science fiction. However, why do some car owners experience coking after 200,000 kilometers, and others after 400,000? The question is extremely interesting, and the answer is extremely simple. The thing is that the speed of engine coking largely depends on the presence of provoking factors during its use. The most obvious of them are:

• use of bad fuel;
• incorrect selection of lubricant (oil);
• failure to comply with basic engine operating standards;
• introduction of inappropriate elements into the motor design.

The more provoking factors appear during engine operation, the sooner decarbonization will be required. There are two ways to determine the need for an event: completely disassemble the engine (which is not very rational) or pay attention to the appearance of characteristic symptoms. The latter include the following:

• a gradual decrease in the power and dynamics of the car;
• increased fuel consumption;
• “rattling” of the motor after starting work;
• compression drop;
• the appearance of dark smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Important! The above symptoms do not always indicate that the engine is excessively coked, so you can finally verify the presence of such a problem only if you disassemble the engine and look at its condition from the inside.

Options for decarbonization

It is worth understanding that depending on the degree of engine contamination, it may be necessary to use different types decarbonization. As practice shows, there are two main types of decarbonization:

• Mechanical decoking. Carried out by disassembling the engine and performing mechanical cleaning internal elements motor from coke.
• Chemical decarbonization. It is carried out using certain chemical reagents and other means. Possible both with and without engine disassembly.

Both options for decarbonization occur in certain situations. Carrying out mechanical decoking is most advisable if there are problems such as:

• the symptoms are very serious, that is, the engine is more likely dead than alive;
• disassembly of the engine confirmed the fact that the engine was highly coked;
• chemical decarbonization does not produce results.

Chemical decarbonization is carried out under the following circumstances:

• the symptoms are not very serious, that is, the engine is more likely alive than dead;
• disassembly of the engine showed that there is not much coke and it is pointless to torture it with mechanical decoking;
• the event is not aimed at getting rid of unpleasant symptoms and making the engine ideal clean look, but is carried out as a preventive measure.

It is worth understanding that decarbonizing an engine is a fairly simple undertaking that can be carried out independently if you have some tools and basic car repair skills. It is worth contacting a specialized service in situations where the car owner is unsure of his abilities or the coking of the engine is quite serious.

Important! When deciding to decarbonize yourself, be sure to analyze which method of procedure would be most appropriate in your case.

Mechanical decarbonization

Mechanical decoking of the engine is carried out in extremely advanced cases, when even the most “nuclear” chemistry does not give any results. There is no specific classification in this form, since mechanical cleansing is a mechanical cleansing that is carried out using a standard template. The general algorithm for such a procedure is as follows:

1. Initially, it is necessary to disassemble the engine to a certain condition in order to gain access to all the necessary components.
2. Then you will have to mechanically clean the surface from coke using available methods. In this process, it is important to be very careful, since applying any defects to the surface of working parts is unacceptable practice.
3. After carefully removing all the coke and wiping the cleaned surfaces with gasoline, you can assemble the engine into reverse order. After which you need to warm it up and it is advisable to drive the car, but a little for the first time.

In words, the whole procedure is extremely simple, but in practice, inexperienced car repair workers may encounter some problems. Before carrying out mechanical decoking, it is very important to properly weigh your strengths and make sure that you have the resources to carry out the procedure. necessary tool and experience.

Chemical decarbonization

Chemical decarbonization is carried out much more often than a similar event using mechanical methods cleaning. This phenomenon is due to the fact that the use of auto chemicals will help even an inexperienced motorist clear coke from the engine. Among the methods of chemical decarbonization, there are two main ones, which are discussed in detail below.

Soft decarbonization- a method used for mild symptoms of coking. Helps clean oil scraper rings from coke or mild carbon deposits on other parts of the CPG. This is done by adding special additives to the oil or fuel. The first results are obtained after at least 50 kilometers using additives.

Advantages of the method:

• easy to carry out;
• low cost;
• extremely effective for mild engine coking or for prevention.

Disadvantages of the method:

• absolutely ineffective when the engine is heavily coked;
• the first results appear after some mileage.

Hard decarbonization- a method carried out in case of strong and pronounced coking of the engine. If the chemistry used is effective, this type of decoking helps clean the engine from a large amount of coke and extend its life by one, or even several hundred thousand kilometers. It is carried out using strong chemicals, which are added directly to the cylinders or disassembled engine parts are soaked in it. Most effective means for decarbonization are represented by the following manufacturers:

• Laurel;
• Titanium;
• Edial;
• SURM;
• Haddo.

Judging by the reviews of motorists who decarbonized the engine by different means, and repairmen, the best remedy for decarbonizing an engine is Laurel.

So, the advantages of the method:

• easy to carry out;
• extremely effective both when the engine is heavily coked and when it is not very coked;
• The results of decarbonization are immediate.

The disadvantages of the method are the following:

• not always low cost.

Hard decarbonization is carried out according to the algorithm that is presented on the packaging of the purchased cleaning chemicals. The template version of the event looks like this:

1. The car is fixed in a horizontal position.
2. The engine warms up to operating temperature (70-90%).
3. The spark plugs or injectors are removed.
4. The pistons are set to the middle position.
5. Using a syringe, a special agent is poured into the cylinders in the quantity regulated by the manufacturer.
6. The spark plugs or injectors are put in place.
7. The car is left alone for 2-12 hours.
8. The spark plugs or injectors are removed again.
9. Using a syringe, the previously filled liquid is removed.
10. The spark plugs and injectors are returned to their place. The necessary procedures specified by the manufacturer are carried out (oil change, engine warming up, etc.), after which decarbonization is completed.

Important! It is necessary to carry out chemical decoking of the engine strictly in the order prescribed by the manufacturer of the product used.

As you can see, answering the question: “Decarbonizing an engine: what is the best way to do it?” is quite difficult. For correct definition the best option It is necessary to take into account some features of each individual case. The information presented above will fully help to implement full procedure without making any mistakes.

Engine decarbonization: the best way to do it - video (Lavr remedy):

The life of a car cannot be compared with a human one. Simple arithmetic: at idle, a diesel engine makes a minimum of 600 revolutions per minute - that is, 10 per second. In this case, the piston “walks” 20 times. We press on the gas - the number of revolutions exceeds a thousand. Add here constant action high temperatures and the cold when starting in winter... A person could never even dream of such an extreme! Therefore, forgetting about such a procedure as engine decarbonization using LAVR ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR preparations is a real crime.

Background

When cars first appeared in the USSR, everyone knew that it was necessary to periodically clean the piston rings of dirt. Fuel in those days burned much worse than it does now. Varnishes and sludge quickly formed on the surface of the parts.

The oil was also so-so and even worse. What happened to him in the engine? It oxidized on the cylinder walls, turning into a film, and got into the piston grooves. Also, during the combustion of the fuel, soot was formed, which was mixed with the oil film. Over time, all this turned into a single monolith - persistent solid deposits that blocked the operation of the piston rings.

Soviet motorists fought against pollution with all the methods available at that time: they filled the engine with kerosene at night, and later they began to add solvents. Desperate car enthusiasts were not deterred by the risk of being left without a car at all and the almost zero effectiveness of such compounds. However, even now the owners of “iron horses” do not hesitate to experiment to their detriment. And some people completely forgot about decoking the engine - they relaxed, relying on additives in modern oils and conditionally high standards fuel.

Since those times, modern auto chemicals represented by our products ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR have stepped far forward. However, she is still not omnipotent, as some people think. Therefore, we decided to debunk the most popular myths about engine decarbonization.

Myth 1. Modern engines do not need decoking

Nothing like this! Of course, in 10-15 years the situation with fuel and oil has changed for the better. In Soviet times, without blowtorch in winter it was impossible to start at all (let’s keep silent about how dangerous it was to heat up the lubrication system pan in this way: the slightest leak, and the Zhiguli was left with burnt legs and horns), and now an easy cold start is something taken for granted.

Despite this, the problem of coking has not gone away and has even worsened. Thanks to progress: technology is more advanced, the gaps between the piston rings and grooves are smaller, the system is more vulnerable. Even thin layer deposits cause the engine to malfunction. Over time, there are more deposits, the problems become more serious - a drop in compression, glow ignition, detonation, accelerated wear, and then a serious breakdown. If you don’t want to shell out money for major repairs, don’t forget about decarbonization.

Myth 2. Engine decarbonization is a universal cure for all ills

There is no doubt, LAVR drugs are almost legendary. But they are far from the “living water” of folk tales. Engine decoking is primarily a repair and maintenance operation. Like an examination by a hygienist, if we draw parallels with medicine. If there are problems with cleanliness in the cylinders, the ML202 and 203 will eliminate them. But if the engine is badly worn, no procedure other than overhauling and replacing parts will help the system.

Myth 3. The debonding procedure is the same for all engines.

The principle is the same for all motors. However, engines are different - in-line, opposed, V-shaped... Each has its own nuances. If you are in any doubt, check with our experts by phone or e-mail. But general rule one thing: if the engine has inclined cylinders, it is better to fill them with more liquid. In detail about decoking of boxer and V-shaped engines,

Myth 4. I constantly use gasoline additives and wash the injectors with a liquid with a decoking effect. There’s no need to do any more decoking

The most effective way to remove deposits is by the “immersion method” - that is, by pouring the decarbonizing composition directly into the cylinders. So one does not interfere with the other. But at the same time, nuances arise: getting to the technological holes is not always easy - you need special tools and comfortable conditions. It is better not to carry out this procedure outdoors, in the rain or snow. That is why we advise combining engine decoking with a scheduled oil or spark plug change.

Myth 5. The more decoking liquid, the better the cylinders are cleaned.

There should be enough liquid so that the pistons are well moistened with it. The volume of preparations is designed in such a way that there is enough decoking liquid to treat all cylinders. 50-60 ml in excess of the required amount will not harm the engine, but it is also not worth pouring the drug into buckets.

Myth 6. The decarbonizing liquid must clean white.

Our products are for those who have an average or higher degree of cylinder coking. It often happens that in old engines deposits “hold” parts, like cement mortar holds the bricks together. Therefore, it is not recommended to whitewash such systems. In addition, solutions that are too caustic can damage engine parts. However, our compositions are much stronger than many analogues and traditional solvents.

Myth 7. After decoking, the car always smokes a lot

The car will smoke in any case, but not always much. The piston has technological recesses in which liquid is retained. In addition, the deposits become saturated with drug vapors and swell, preventing the liquid from leaking further. This excess drug begins to burn when the engine is started after the procedure, turning into white smoke from the exhaust pipe.

To reduce smoke, we recommend removing any liquid remaining in the cylinders. This can be done using a tube with a syringe that comes with the drug. If necessary, it can be extended with any plastic tube. Also, if the fluid is not pumped out, starting may be difficult, and thick white smoke will take longer. There is no need to worry about the catalyst - the drug burns out gradually and does not harm it.

Myth 8. After decoking, you can drive to a car service center and change the oil there.

In principle, it is possible. But a clear answer to this question depends on how much oil you have in the system, what quality it is, how long it takes to get to the service station, at what speed, what the load on the car will be, etc., etc. Therefore, we recommend changing the oil without leaving the cash register - that is, immediately after decarbonization, and not embarking on risky voyages.

Myth 9. After decoking it will only get worse because compression in the cylinders will drop.

As a rule, old engines are literally overgrown with deposits. Because of this, the pistons and rings wear out a lot. If you carry out decoking on such a car, you will find out that over the years of operation the parts have worn out considerably. Therefore, compression drops and starting becomes difficult. If engine treatment with ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR did not give good results, which means it’s time for the engine to be rebuilt.

Myth 10. After the procedure, the engine will not start

During engine decoking, the cylinders are wetted with liquid. If they are not properly dried, the engine may not start the first time, but only after several attempts. Therefore, after the procedure, it is recommended to wipe the candles dry and remove excess drug from the cylinders.

And sometimes the matter is not at all in the decarbonization procedure. It happens that the procedure was carried out using our drug according to all the rules. But the car never starts. It turns out that the high-voltage coils on the car are reversed. If you return them to their places, the engine will start with half a turn!

That is why we insist that you must follow the instructions strictly. And the phrase that a motorist who decides to carry out the decarbonization procedure must have basic skills in engine maintenance also appears on the box for a reason. So be careful, follow the recommendations of specialists, and then your engine will delight you with quiet and flawless operation!