The process of building a house from timber. Building a house from timber: types of building timber, design features, stages of building construction. What is timber

After a hard week at work, you always want to have a good rest. And for this you need to go to nature outside the city, to your home. You can build a house from timber with your own hands if you have a small plot of land. You can landscape it yourself, install water and heating there, and make a sewer system. You will want to spend every free day in this house, and eventually move into it.

Dacha design

A house made of timber is erected without experience in construction in several stages:

design;
laying the foundation;
laying crowns;
roof;
finishing and laying of communication systems.

The timber has rectangular shape, which allows you to initially obtain uniform walls and reduce construction time. An important point is also that it can only be used for the construction of houses up to a maximum of the 3rd floor. It has several more positive features:

good performance properties;
ecologically pure;
design and others.

A house made of wood is quite warm due to the tight fit of the wooden elements during construction. Wooden houses are also advantageous because the internal and exterior decoration It’s quite easy; you can use various decorative elements.

Before you move on to building a dacha, you need to make a design and calculate how much this construction costs.

It is better to order a building project from construction companies. Their technical specialists will calculate everything down to the smallest detail in terms of soil characteristics, construction technology, amount of material, and will even find you a developer.

But in order to save money Money It’s better to develop your own drawings, calculate the number and cost of elements. In the case of the construction of several floors, the project must have floor plan drawings. With a finished project, you need to contact a special institution to obtain permission to build a house.

If you have made or ordered a drawing, then after receiving the appropriate signatures and the approved project, we proceed to the foundation.

Laying the foundation

Main structural element of any building is the foundation. Before creating a project, it is very important to decide on the type of foundation of the house. If a mistake is made at the beginning of construction, an incorrectly designed foundation will lead to negative consequences during the operation of the house and such serious problems will arise as:

warp of the base;
cracks in the supporting structure;
deformation and others.

The reliability of the building's foundation is the durability and quality of construction.

There are several types of foundations used in the construction of country houses:

from screw piles;
tape and others.

In areas outside the city where soil moisture is high, foundations made of screw piles are often used.

Its advantages are as follows:

cost savings of 2-3 times (compared to strip foundations);
easy to do yourself;
construction time - 1-2 days;
high reliability;
you can work with it at any time of the year;
application for complex landscapes.

As practice shows, this design It’s worth building and pouring it yourself, as it will be much cheaper and more reliable than the work of so-called “specialists.”

The most popular base today in the construction of houses. Its advantage is that any house can be built on it, it is durable and less expensive. The base is quite strong, it uses much less building materials, and the time allotted for work is reduced significantly.

How to do strip foundation on one's own:

First, let's mark the area around the perimeter of the house.
Then we designate the location of the internal walls (load-bearing). The width of the dug trenches should exceed the width of the walls by at least 10 cm, and the depth should be above the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 0.6 m.
Pillows made of crushed stone and sand (10 cm each), poured into the trench, need to be filled with a half-smaller layer of concrete (5 cm).
Formwork made from 2.5 cm boards must be installed so that its top is visible above ground level (about 0.4 m).
For reinforcement, use 1 cm rods in two layers. The structure of them is laid longitudinally, then transversely, and the intersection points are secured with strong wire with a gap of about 5 cm.
For concreting, the popular type of cement M400 is used. To mix the solution, take it together with sand in a ratio of 1:3.
Concrete is poured into the trenches with a special pump or shovel.

The main thing is to prevent bubbles from appearing before it hardens. This is done using special technology. The concrete surface (not hardened) is periodically sprayed with water.

After pouring, construction of the house is suspended for a month. This is necessary for the concrete to harden and prepare to take on a heavy load.

Construction of a building

How to build a house from timber with your own hands? To build a warm and cozy cottage, you should take the choice of materials seriously. As practice shows, it is better to use timber made from coniferous trees, as it is strong and durable. There are two types:

profiled;
whole.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Profiled timber

It differs from the solid one in that it has crown grooves or tenons over the entire surface. Building a house from it is quite easy and quick.

The advantages of such a building:

excellent thermal characteristics;
modern design;
smooth walls that do not require additional cladding;
the design does not allow moisture to enter the inter-crown seam.

is easily flammable (to eliminate this drawback, it should be impregnated with special means);
requires insulation on both sides when living in the cold season;
redevelopment in a house built from profiled timber is impossible.

This material should be chosen with a humidity of no more than 20% (this is achieved in special dryers for wood).

Solid timber

It has many advantages, but outwardly it looks bad. The process of preparing it for installation is quite fast. You can purchase the material from any construction company and on the construction market at a minimal cost.

How to build a house from solid elements after choosing the material:

it is worth preparing for the fact that there will be additional costs for its finishing (siding, lining) to give it a more aesthetic appearance;
use wood only highest quality; Before use, it should be treated with antiseptic agents (to prevent the appearance of fungus).

In solid slats, the inter-crown seams are weaker than in profile ones. When wood shrinks and subsides, cracks and cracks appear. They are eliminated with the help of sheathing, which leads to additional costs.

We build a house from solid elements:

The first crown is made on a double layer of waterproofing, which covers the foundation. The quality factor of the building depends on its assembly. As a rule, elements measuring 150x150 mm are used.
The insulation is laid 0.3 meters more than the width of the foundation itself.
Then we assemble the walls from timber, which we pre-treat with an antiseptic. Each rail needs to be processed.

The tree is laid out in rows. If the timber is solid, its grooves are additionally insulated with special material. For strength, the elements can be connected with special spikes.

Roof of a wooden house

The roof, as the final stage of building construction, should also look efficient and original. To begin with, lay the Mauerlat (it is better to use 150x150 elements) and attach it with hardware to the crown.

The rafter frame defines the shape of the roof. All parameters of the rafter system are specified in advance in the project. Slats up to 180 mm wide and 50 mm thick are secured with steel plates.

We install the rafter frame and cover it with a layer of high-quality vapor barrier. Then we install the sheathing (across the rafters) using nails. The distance between the slats will depend on the type of roofing material:

tiles - solid (slats end to end);
slate, corrugated sheeting - with a distance of 0.3 m.

It's worth remembering that wooden house“settles down” over several years. During this period, you can live there, but it is strictly forbidden to decorate and tile it.

Construction own home- a very responsible step. And if you decide to do this work yourself, then there will be even more questions and doubts. Today we will discuss whether it is possible to build a house from timber with your own hands, we will cover each of the stages of construction, we will try to reveal everything possible options. Whether you have enough strength and skills for this difficult task is up to you to decide. Where to begin? What to look for Special attention? You will find brief answers to all these questions in this article.

The very first questions that arise long before construction:

Where to build?

Perhaps this issue will not be pressing for you. Often used for construction country cottage area, where individual housing construction is permitted; inherited from parents or relatives an empty plot or with dilapidated housing; state assistance for a third child. There can be many reasons for the ownership of land. Often it is with the appearance land plot there is a desire to acquire your own spacious home for living or a cozy country house for summer holiday.

What to do if there is no site? How to choose the right place for construction? Here you should decide on the purpose of your home. For country house Any site is suitable for temporary stay. The main criteria here are: environment and ecology. When it comes to building a home for permanent residence, many more factors need to be taken into account. You should pay close attention to the terrain and soil. This can significantly complicate construction in terms of arranging the foundation. It is important to pay attention to the location of communications. It is difficult to imagine a comfortable life without electricity. Gas makes home heating easier and cheaper. The problem with the water supply can be solved with the help of a well. But here we return again to the geological study of soils. Sometimes drilling can become big problem at great expense.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

Ask a question to an expert

The environmental issue is also important. Often the most contaminated areas are the cheapest. In such a place it makes no sense to build environmentally friendly houses from timber.

What to build?

What purpose do you plan to build the house for? We have already mentioned how important it is to determine how your building will be used: a temporary place to spend time with family and friends or a cozy nest for permanent residence. It is also necessary to select the size of the object commensurate with the building site. It may be worth planning the location of other buildings on your site in order to harmoniously arrange the bathhouse, garage, gazebo, garden and other elements of comfortable living.

What to build from?

Nowadays there are a lot of materials and technologies for construction. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. We decided to build a house from timber for ourselves.

After solving these issues, you can immediately begin construction, although here, too, you will first have to work with your head. There is still quite a long way to go before working directly with your hands.

Preparatory work before construction begins

Before starting work on the site, you must have a clear design of your facility. Without it, it is difficult to imagine the construction of even small buildings. How to draw up a project for your home?

Long before construction, we made a choice in favor of a residential cottage or country house. Now you need to choose the size of your future home. This may depend on the size of your family and financial capabilities.
Having decided on the size of the house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of technology for constructing a house from timber. Some of the materials may not solve your project.
Houses made of sawn timber. The material used is edged timber with 4 or 2 sawn flat edges. The material has natural moisture. The main advantage of this material is its availability and low cost. You can easily find a supplier of such material. Disadvantages: the need to use additional seals between the crowns, low aesthetics (requires external and internal finishing), significant shrinkage of the house, the appearance of cracks.
Houses made of profiled timber. Planed timber with a special section. The workpiece is equipped with a tongue and groove for tight installation without additional seals. Can be made from wood with natural moisture content or chamber drying.
Houses made of laminated veneer lumber. The same profiled timber, but made by gluing individual boards using a special technology. Made only from kiln-dried wood.
. The wall is a “pie” of two parallel walls made of boards with a section of 45 (47) x 135 (140) mm with the space between them filled with insulation.

The choice of construction technology is inextricably linked with the search for a reliable supplier of the necessary material. The Internet and telephone allow you to solve this issue even without visiting the manufacturer’s office. You can clarify the price and delivery time; all you have to do is read the reviews about the supplier.

We chose the size and material

Now you can begin the final design of the house. The Internet can also be useful to you here. You just have to write a request “project of a house made of 6 by 6 timber” or “house made of 8 by 8 timber”, and you will receive a huge list of projects, often even with a calculated cost. You should not redesign the project to suit yourself without good knowledge of wooden architecture. You can also use standard project from the materials supplier (especially for profiled or laminated timber). Often design services can be offered free of charge when ordering a house kit from the manufacturer.

With the finished project, it is necessary to draw up an estimate of materials. Even if you are confident in the availability of the chosen project, you should not refuse estimate work. It is necessary to at least calculate the supply of construction materials so that there are no delays in work or difficulties in storing them. At this stage, you can afford to call suppliers and choose the most best option in terms of price and quality. Often, careless developers have to hastily look for some material at a significant overpayment. Almost all suppliers of building materials are familiar with the question: “We need it yesterday...” They use this to earn additional income.

The estimate will also have to include the cost of the house's foundation. You have a project, you know approximately the entire object, the soil was studied even before design - choosing the type of foundation will be a simple matter.

Now we are ready to go to the construction site. You can begin field work, but before that, one more important issue must be resolved.

Tools for building a house from timber

Building a house from timber does not require a wide range of special tools. But not every man has even this insignificant list, especially if he is not involved in construction. So what you need:

Chainsaw or electric saw. Definitely required chain Saw, For precision work You will also need a circular saw or a miter-bevel machine (for finishing work).
Tape measure, string for measuring and marking.
Level, hydraulic level, plumb lines, level. The construction of all house structures requires constant monitoring of horizontality and verticality. The most expensive of these tools, a level, will only be needed for foundation work.
Hammer, axe, sledgehammer - it’s hard to imagine any carpentry work without these tools.
Hammer, drill, screwdriver. It’s hard to imagine modern work without working with fasteners.
A range of personal protective equipment. These include goggles, respirators, safety devices (a lot of work will be done at height).
Grinder for cutting metal elements (especially for working with roofing materials).

Foundation arrangement

So, it's time to start construction. Where does any object begin? Of course, from the construction of the foundation, the reliability of the entire structure depends on it. This is not the most difficult, but one of the most important stages in building a house made of timber. We will not consider the specifics of choosing different types of foundation. We have already made a choice based on soil and weight assessment finished house. We will only talk about the features of the work of installing the foundation with your own hands.

Foundation on screw piles

It has become widespread due to its versatility and speed of installation. How to install? First you need to calculate the number of piles and their diameter. Then you need to calculate the location of the piles on the site. Even at the design stage, you should have a drawing of a pile field for your house. According to this plan, the site is marked using strings and pegs.

Now you can start screwing the piles. To make it easier to start screwing, you can dig holes no more than 20 cm deep. The pile is installed in the hole, and with the help of a special rod and assistants, the pile is screwed strictly vertically. The pile sites must be at the same level, this is controlled using a level. You can begin installing the grillage. In the case of using a wooden grillage made from timber or a metal grillage made from a channel, they are simply fixed to the pile sites. For a reinforced concrete grillage, you will need to install formwork from boards or plywood and lay reinforcement.

Foundation on concrete piles

Factory-produced concrete piles can be driven (heavy special equipment will be required) or bored piles. In the case of bored piles, the pile field is also marked. After this, holes are drilled to the freezing depth or holes are dug to the required depth. Formwork made of roofing felt or boards is installed in the hole. Concrete is poured and pre-connected reinforcement is immersed in it. Now you can begin installing the grillage. This is done by analogy with a foundation on screw piles.

Strip foundation

For houses made of timber, a shallow strip foundation is often used, which perfectly distributes the load of the house. To install a strip foundation, a trench is dug according to the house design. The bottom of the trench is filled with sand, which is compacted or spilled with water. Next, formwork from boards or plywood is installed, and specially connected reinforcement is laid. The foundation is poured with level control.

Slab foundation

Installation is carried out similarly to a strip foundation. The only difference is that a pit is being dug under the entire area of the house. Sand is poured onto the same area, reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, waterproofing is laid and the mauerlat or first crown of the frame is installed.

Walling

It should be noted that after laying the first crown, floor beams can be installed. They can crash into walls (a groove is sawed into the wall beams) or be fastened with metal supports.

The construction of walls is inextricably linked with the chosen technology. We will analyze the work process for each construction option.

Edged timber. Before laying each subsequent crown, sealing material is laid: jute, flax fiber, tow, moss. After laying the row, it is necessary to drill through the two beams using a drill and a serpentine drill. A wooden dowel will be driven into this hole to give the wall height rigidity. Instead of wooden dowels, special ones can be used metal elements, but in this case, markings of their location are left on the timber for subsequent sawing of openings for windows and doors (houses made from edged timber are not made according to the design with ready-made openings).
Profiled or laminated timber. These two technologies have the same workpiece profile, so the assembly has identical operations. First of all, it is necessary to lay out the set of timber according to technological map(each beam is marked, and its position is specified in the project). The exception is profiled timber purchased in the form of moldings. This material is supplied 6 meters long without bowls. In this case, assembly is carried out by analogy with edged timber, with the exception of laying the sealing material. The dowels are driven in according to the technology described above.
Double beam. Absolutely different technology. The boards are driven into each other using a sledgehammer and special pads. The verticality of the wall is ensured by driving in the cuts. Using the same cuts, the constant gap between the outer and inner walls is controlled. Before you start building a house from double timber with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of working with this material. A slight violation of technology can lead to disastrous results.

Difficulties in constructing walls are associated only with raising the timber to a greater height. 2-3 people are quite capable of assembling a house from timber of any size.

Roof installation

One of the most difficult stages of building a house is installing the rafter system. Even experienced builders treat this stage of work with the greatest responsibility. Let's not go deeper into complex shapes roofs. If you decide to install a cuckoo roof, a hip roof or a complex multi-slope roof, it means that you have a lot of your own knowledge. Let's consider the installation of a gable roof.

After laying the timber for the top frame, future trusses are marked. The pitch of the trusses usually does not exceed 1.5 meters. The first truss is assembled on site, the rest can be cut on the ground according to a template. First, two outer trusses are installed, on which the ridge beam is laid. A cord is pulled to control the level of intermediate trusses. The sheathing is sewn from edged boards or OSB. The waterproofing contour is laid, the counter-batten is sewn on. Now you can lay the roofing material. The range of roofing materials is very wide, and you can find preparations for each of them on the Internet. The simplest for an inexperienced builder are corrugated sheets, metal tiles, ondulin and onduvilla.

Finishing

Putting a roof on a house is a big victory when building on your own. Now you don't have to worry about the durability of your log house.

Finishing work should begin from the facade. If planed timber was used, then only it needs to be painted with protective decorative compounds. When working with edged timber, they are treated with an antiseptic and the façade is sheathed with finishing materials. For cladding, imitation timber, blockhouse, siding (vinyl or metal), facade panels, fiber cement siding or panels can be used. Working with sheathing materials is always the same: installing sheathing from timber or profiles and fastening the sheathing material using self-tapping screws or special fasteners- kleimer.

A special place in the finishing is occupied by the installation of windows and doors. Shrinkage of the log house in height requires the installation of additional shrinkage boxes. The simplest is the installation of rough T-shaped casing boxes. At the ends of the timber in the sawn openings, a groove measuring 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm is selected using a router. A beam is placed in it, along which the settling timber of the walls will slide. A dry board with a thickness of at least 40 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall is attached to this beam. A board of a similar cross-section is placed at the top and bottom. A gap of 2 to 10 cm is left above the top board of the box, depending on the material used (dry or natural moisture). You can safely install windows and doors in these boxes in accordance with their standard technology for brick houses.

ABOUT interior decoration at home and communications, you can talk a lot and for a long time. Diversity finishing materials, engineering systems can lead even an experienced builder into the wilds. Try to study the issue specifically for your finishing option. The Internet and expert advice on forums will provide you with real help with this.

Conclusion

We only briefly told you about the stages of building a house from timber with your own hands. Now all that remains is to decide whether you are ready to go this route, or is it better to trust the professionals. Of course, you cannot do all the work yourself. But what part of the work should you take into your own hands? You decide. Remember that ill-conducted work can only bring you additional costs, not savings.

Guide and step-by-step instructions for building a house or Russian bathhouse from timber with your own hands.

How much does it cost to build a house?

For many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year with this question. After a newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

The interesting proposals of many construction companies - to build any structure on a turnkey basis - may conflict with the family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.

Often, the costs that will go into direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The main difficulty in self-construction at home is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.

How to properly build a house from timber?

It is better to build a wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes

lumber for ceilings and floors,
timber for log house,
edged and unedged boards,
window and door blocks, etc.
insulation made of flax or jute,
roofing material,
glassine,
glass,
roofing felt, g
haul, staples, tow, etc.

The second way is to purchase all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It’s better to go the first route, as it will end up being cheaper. In addition, many companies, when purchasing a complete set of building materials, deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the connection of the future house to the area, and the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to a plan for dividing the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be agreed upon with the board of the dacha association.

First of all, it is necessary to draw a site plan on a piece of paper on a certain scale, indicating specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan to the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.

Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting off hummocks in the future territory construction site. For these works you need to have an ax, a shovel, a scythe, hand winch, crowbar and sledgehammer. It is better to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
Once the area has been cleaned, you can move on to the next step.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with its help you can get a complete, warm, durable foundation from a homogeneous material at the lowest cost labor. And you won't have to do any more extra work for the manufacture and installation of fences and lintels. A simplified method for marking axes should be used without using scraps. After all, cast-offs make it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.

When digging a foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed away, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile; it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of occurrence groundwater, soil type and freezing depth.

A shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench is best. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, compacted and watered. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand bed. There must be at least two reinforcement bars.

Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be used as reinforcement. You can use a sledgehammer to break the concrete around the post reinforcement. Two pillars are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it at the corners. To do this, you can use two railway spikes. Drive them with ridges towards each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing rod between them. The rods that are placed must overlap each other by at least 20 cm. To prevent them from diverging when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire where they overlap.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, you need to place stones, pieces of brick, and crushed stone under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete; preparing it by hand is very labor-intensive.

Pouring the foundation

It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods 40 cm long are inserted into the uncured concrete. These rods are immersed into the base of the foundation to a depth of 20 cm. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for attaching the plinth formwork panels.

IN warm weather the surface of fresh concrete must be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moistened with water, or simply covered with roofing felt. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The panels will have no gaps, the surface of the base does not require plaster. To save money, you can use unedged boards.

After preparing the boards, you need to assemble boards of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.

The panels are assembled on spacers laid out on the ground in such a way that their smooth side faces the inside of the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Overlays are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. The height of the panels should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.

In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other different sides base To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes into the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the panels so that concrete does not pour into them

Installation of shields begins with the inner contour. Before this, pieces of wire are wound around the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
Then shields are placed next to them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
The panels of the internal contour, fastened together, are aligned relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonals at the corners are checked.
The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
Then the outer contour panels are attached, their centers are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
The nails in the upper and lower spacers are forgotten. The shields are knocked together. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical relative to the center lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
Then we bend the nails upward, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
In the upper part of the plinth, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement on spacers. Then the upper part of the base formwork is fastened with ties. Scraps of reinforcement are laid overlapping and tied with wire.
In this simple way, a rigid structure was obtained that is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to mark the top pouring line on the boards. Marking the horizon level of the base begins from the most elevated corner on the ground. Marks are made 1-1.5 meters from the starting point and nails are driven in along them through the boards. The height of the base will be shown by the exposed ends of the nails. They will also serve as reference marks when pouring the base.

To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to make marks and constantly control the horizon using a hydraulic level. In hot weather, the poured base should be protected. The concrete needs to be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. During the process of building a house, it will gain the required strength.

Unloading construction materials

If during the construction of a house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then you need to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back by first laying unedged boards on the ground.

After the materials have been unloaded, they must be immediately sorted by type and laid out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of a house is located in the corner between the property line and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against the two walls of the base. It is advisable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and sagging of the beams, they need to be laid on even pads laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed lengthwise, the other – across.

Boards are laid on linings made from scrap boards. A gap is left between the boards to allow the stack to “breathe.” Each new row of boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board faces down. U unedged boards The wide part should be facing down.

All stacks must be raised above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material has been sorted and stacked, it will be necessary to cover it from atmospheric precipitation roofing felt. Important detail: On any lumber, any remaining bark must be removed immediately.
Approximate calculation of “related” materials for building a 6x6 house:
— 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
— nails: 200 mm – 16 kg, 150 mm – 8 kg, 120 mm – 6 kg, 100 mm – 20 kg, 70 mm – 10 kg;
— 7 kg of slate nails;
- nails for exterior and internal lining;
— 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
— 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt for the base, for the subfloor and for the roof.

Floor and walls of a house made of timber

Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the bottom trim, you need to apply two layers of roofing material to the base around the entire perimeter. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and laid on the base.

For tying, smooth beams without cracks, jumps or signs of rot are selected. To prevent water from getting into the cracks between the beams, you need to remove 10x10 mm chamfers on the upper edges. It is better to connect the beams at the corners using a tongue and groove. The dimensions of the tenon should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the tenon.

Using rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the beams are joined together in a vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved beams into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic treatment of the beams of the first crown. Preheated oil should be used to lubricate the inside and bottom sides of the beams, while leaving the ends clean. The treated strapping beams are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.

After this, you need to immediately lay out the floor joists. As logs, beams can be used, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the plinth allows, then the ends of the logs are laid on it. If it doesn’t allow it, then cuts are made into the harness, and the ends of the joists are inserted there.

For large spans, logs are laid on brick or concrete pillars, which are buried 50 cm into the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the logs must be horizontal and the upper layers must have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the joists.
Then you can start building the walls.

All the timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. From one large beam you can get 3-4 smaller beams.
The beams are prepared for 2-3 crowns. On lower crown A uniform, even layer of tow is placed, its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is rolled outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on the tow. Then the tow is put on again, etc. The beams of the new crown are connected with nails to the beams below and the overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further nails are driven in after 1.5 m.

Window blocks are fastened to the wall beams with nails every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.

In this case, the nails are driven through these boards into the end of the beam. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The beams need to be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.

A very crucial moment occurs when laying beams over door and window blocks. To avoid pinching them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next you need to install the scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and frame. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding sag, you need to make it double. The laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be thoroughly checked according to elevation marks and diagonals and fastened with staples at the corners. Now the walls are ready.

Roof

There are many different types of roofs: shed, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in dacha construction the most common are gable broken roofs. Due to their simplicity and ease of installation, they have become very popular. These roofs will also allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

At the base of the roof - reliable overlap. It should consist of ceiling beams, which are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams using a permanent wall.

The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the top frame of the log house, you need to mark the places where the floor beams need to be placed. Using a hydraulic level you need to achieve a general plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the frame by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using pieces of 50x150 mm boards. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, for ease of installation, inserts with a depth of 3-5 cm are made on the extensions.

The prepared beams are raised to top harness log frame and placed in places on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With their help you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the trim with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be made on the ground from edged boards. It is better to make a life-size template. So, using a template, you can determine which one mansard roof needs to be built.

The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, assembly is carried out on the ceiling. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tie and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected to each other by purlins.

The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve, just as curvature of the ceiling beams is possible. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal installation method.

To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. The racks are laid on the ceiling beams and the upper purlin is attached to them with brackets. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The frame span must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, beams must be placed under the run. After checking the plumb verticality of the racks, secure them with braces.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are installed under the purlins that are already raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with purlins are raised and fastened, you need to tie them together using attic beams - floor ties.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened to the purlins with nails, you need to lay unedged boards on them.

The linings, ridge rafters, and crossbars assembled according to the template are installed on ties and secured with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then the intermediate ridge rafters are installed.
Now the attic frame is built.

House roof

This is a very responsible job that requires dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
We need to start with preparing the fronts. This preparation consists of installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross-section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and secured with nails.

Next you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to place the glassine strips overlapping and horizontally, and attach it to the posts with small nails or felt pins. Usually the pediment is sheathed with clapboard. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally and the upper part vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.

First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. You need to carefully ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the ridge of the catch fits tightly into the groove. You can stuff the catch, and then cut off its ends that protrude above the rafters with a hacksaw.

It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the gable, you need to remember that the facing should always be with the groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.

Roof sheathing

We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the sheathing protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion must be made to protect the front of the building from the ingress of storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof of the house is roofing material, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable eaves must be accurately determined in accordance with the total length of the sheathing. This can be done using very simple way. It is necessary to lay two boards parallel on the ground across the entire expected width of the roof. It is necessary to place slate on them with the required overlap in a whole wave or half wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid row and the sheathing is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the overhang values have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these projections.

Natural stops are obtained for the intermediate sheathing boards.
The sheathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, alternate the butt part with the top. It is worth nailing edged boards at the bottom and top of the rafters.

After the sheathing is ready, you should immediately sheathe the gable cornices. This is a very labor-intensive task that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard to reach places and at high altitude. You can immediately sew up the cornices with shields, which can be easily and calmly made on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them onto the roof and make room for placing the overlays between the sheathing boards.

If the need arises, you can cover the junction of the shield with the gable boards with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. On initial stage During construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing felt. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each subsequent strip of roofing material overlaps another strip by at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or antiseptic. It is better to cover a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.

The ends of the roofing felt that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Next will be finishing interior work. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.

Interior finishing work

This stage of construction should begin with filling the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the joists. And then nail the subfloor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. How can it be used as insulation? mineral wool or expanded clay. Glassine should be placed on top of the insulation.

The finished floor boards are placed face down on the joists, without hammering the nails in completely. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.

After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is placed, then glassine is added again and the floorboards are nailed.
After this, the attic ceiling is hemmed.

At the interior finishing stage, door and window units. They are secured with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with 100-120 mm nails. Tow is packed into the cracks, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. Threshold door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is the one-flight staircase.

The lower part rests on the floor, and the upper part rests on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. To make a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a cross-section of 60x200 mm.
For the steps it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.

The steps are laid on bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and fastened with 100 mm nails to the strings. The contact points of the staircase to the attic and to the floor are determined. The cuts are made and it turns out necessary preparation, which fits tightly to the wall and floor.

The second string is cut out from this blank. Both strings are combined, and marks for future steps are applied on the outer edges. The bars are nailed to these marks, and then the steps. Steps with outside the bowstrings are nailed with decorative hats.

Many owners land plots When choosing a suitable building material for the construction of a residential building, they come to the conclusion that it is more profitable to build a house from timber with your own hands. A residential building made of wood is considered the most environmentally friendly, and today this material is increasingly used for the construction of residential buildings. Ready-made offers construction companies not available to everyone due to their high cost. However, having studied the features of the construction of such buildings, you can gradually begin to build a house from timber on your own.

List of advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of a house made of timber:

Environmental friendliness. Timber as a material for building a house is the most environmentally friendly of all existing ones.
Comfortable temperature and humidity in the rooms.
Good sound insulation.
Saving money due to the fact that there is no need to build a deep foundation, and all construction work can be done independently.
Possibility to quickly build a residential building.
Attractive appearance.

List of disadvantages of timber buildings:

Risk of cracking building material.
When using undried wood, the shrinkage process of the house takes a longer period.
Wood can serve as a medium for fungal growths.
This building material is susceptible to rotting.
Laminated timber is not breathable.
Wood is a flammable building material.

How to calculate the size of a residential building

Before you undertake to build a house from timber, you need to start drawing up a general plan and drawings of the future structure. You can design a visual layout yourself or order this service from representatives of special organizations. You can also choose finished drawing from any open source.

The first stage of design, before building a house from timber, is determining the dimensions of the future building. The dimensions of the building should be calculated based on the available space and the needs of the residents. If the free area for construction is small, but it is necessary to install quality house made of timber for housing several people, you can consider the option of a small-sized residential building. If you carefully think through and organize the usable space, even in small house everyone will be comfortable.

When we build a residential building from timber, additional space can be created by arranging a terrace or attic space.

The average size of a residential building made from this building material is 5x4 m, of course, if the territory allows. The size 6x8 m is considered universal for residential buildings for country purposes. These dimensions make it possible to build a second floor.

Despite the fact that most often the area of a house is calculated in accordance with the number of residents and the size of the plot, you usually have to focus on the available budget.

How to prepare a project yourself

Before you make drawings of a construction project and use them to correctly build a residential building, you need to determine the following characteristics of the site:

relief;
soil type;
groundwater level.

Only after determining these parameters can you begin to draw up a diagram.

The fact is that all these factors have a direct impact on the characteristics of the future structure, in particular, the type of foundation being built depends on them.

If you do not plan to build a basement, good option will be the construction of a columnar type foundation - it is suitable even for heaving soil. Since each house project involves the construction of a building of a certain size, the amount of building materials used must be calculated in advance. In order to clearly imagine the future construction on the site, determine the area of the local area and the placement of the house relative to its boundaries, you should correlate the house plan with the cadastral plan of the site.

Errors when creating a project

If you are using a step-by-step guide and designing a house yourself, without experience, you should avoid the following mistakes:

Lack of rationality when drawing up internal layout.
Poor and inconvenient location of windows and door openings.
Inaccurately calculated characteristics of the operational and technical plan.

Calculation of required materials

The estimate must be drawn up in advance. This will allow you to buy as much building material as is required to build a house, and not buy it again additionally. Or vice versa - after assembling a house from timber, sometimes you have to sell excess material. To avoid such difficulties, the volume of required raw materials should be calculated in advance. The first step is to calculate the building materials needed to build a house from timber, namely, to erect walls.

The height of the ceilings is taken into account together with the thickness of the floors and flooring. When counting walls from the inside and external sides the thickness of the timber section is taken into account. Next, calculate the total amount of timber. To do this, the height of the wall of a wooden house must be divided by the height of one unit of building material. The result will indicate the number of rows of beams required to construct each wall. When calculating the total length of the beam, take into account the length of the walls. The resulting number of timber boards is summed up.

Construction technology of wooden houses

Carry out construction timber house possible by step-by-step assembly ready-made kit purchased at manufacturing plant. Such kits are accompanied by a step-by-step plan for installation work. Each beam is fixed in a specific place using ties - galvanized metal pins.

It is important to know how to properly build a house from timber and in what sequence to perform operations. Phased construction residential structure is as follows:

Laying the foundation.
Rechecking geometric calculations.
Laying waterproofing.
Installation of the lower level - laying the first row.
Cross-shaped fastening of wood at a longitudinal intersection.
Assembling the remaining timber boards with insulating material laid between them.
Installation of floors between floors.
Installation of ceilings in the form of beams.
Installation of the rafter system, taking into account the 2% shrinkage of laminated timber.
Laying roofing material.
Insulation of floors.
Insulation of walls.
Installation of partitions.
Carrying out engineering communications.
Wooden flooring on the terrace.
Window installation.
Door installation.

All about foundation types

Foundation under a private house may be one of the existing varieties:

columnar design;
tape type;
plate manufacturing technology.

A columnar foundation for building houses is considered the least difficult to install; it can be built quickly. The disadvantage of this design is the separate placement of the pillars. During construction pile foundation, unlike the columnar one, the piles are connected using a reinforced concrete slab. The strip-type foundation is represented by several subtypes of structures, each of which has different functionality. A foundation that has the same cross section, designed for the construction of large residential buildings. If the log house is small and light, such that one can build it alone, you can use a shallow foundation - more affordable in cost, but no less reliable. As slab foundation lay a reinforced concrete slab. This foundation for building a house made of timber can be made from a large amount of concrete and reinforcement.

Wall construction stage

In order to assemble the walls, you need to prepare all the building materials at the construction site. At the corners, lumber boards can be connected either with or without a protrusion.

Connecting the first crown and attaching the board to the foundation. To connect the initial crown of a private house, the timber is cut down lengthwise and crosswise using circular saw. Place the first crown on board linings. To distribute the load on the foundation more evenly, floor beams should be placed on wood pads. It is recommended to treat backing boards and construction timber with an antiseptic.

How to lay the second and subsequent crowns. Gusset timber boards are cut with root tenons. If the beam is shorter than the length of the wall, it must be spliced. The second crown is laid on the first one, observing the corner joints and, if necessary, splicing the length of the boards.

How to connect lumber boards and use dowels. Before you begin to connect the crowns on the blocks of a house under construction from a simple beam, you need to make markings for installing dowels. Nageli square section are considered the most reliable appearance connections that do not prevent shrinkage.

How can you lengthen a beam? You can lengthen the beam in the following ways:

docking;
use of root thorns;
half a tree;
dovetail technique.

How to caulk a timber house during shrinkage. While the shrinkage process is taking place, the following materials can be used for caulking a residential building:

jute fabric;
tow;
flax wool

How to lay the floor correctly

Insulation material, which also serves as sound insulation, is laid between two layers of the floor structure. The subfloor is created using edged boards.

How to insulate walls and floors

Materials for insulating walls and floors can be:

sawdust;
mineral wool;
penofol;
Styrofoam.

If timber with a section of 150x150 mm is used in the construction of a house, additional insulation flooring may not be produced.

Carrying out roofing work

The roof frame must consist of the following elements:

a pediment made of timber boards, which serves as the end part of the structure;
rafters - the main part of the roof structure;
Mauerlat timber support;
strut;
rack.

What is interior decoration and how to build a staircase correctly

The list of installation works for interior decoration includes installation of floors and finishing of walls. To build an interfloor from scratch yourself wooden stairs, the following installation work will be required:

Mounting stringers.
Cutting openings to accommodate steps.
Installing the bowstring.
Fastening risers.
Installation of steps.
Installation of railings.

Despite the presence of shortcomings, many prefer to build a residential building from timber. However, even professional builders, before building a house, draw up a visual plan for its construction, and when implementing this plan, you must follow the step-by-step instructions for carrying out installation work. You can find it in specialized construction manuals.

If you carefully approach the study of theory, you will learn how to build a durable house from timber with your own hands.

The main advantages of this construction equipment are its relatively low cost, the ability to independently carry out all stages of construction, and the fact that construction can be completed in a short time.

150x150 do it yourself, we'll tell you in detailed instructions with photo and video materials.

Some secrets are revealed for successfully completing the basic activities of building a house.

How economically, but without losing quality, to acquire your own housing for many years.

What to pay attention to and do the job correctly.

It's easy to do it yourself. make it easier with your own hands wooden beam. Wood is a traditional material with time-tested quality.

Production finished timber Coniferous species nowadays are represented by a wide number of options. In the presence of finished project It is possible to order material for a template.

Production will take a long time, but will be compensated for during installation.

7 steps to realizing your dream

After making a decision to build housing, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.

The best time for this is considered to be late autumn and winter. It is necessary to spend a lot of time on all actions and it is advisable to time this period by the beginning of the construction season from mid-Vienna to early autumn:

Decide on .
Order or buy ready-made.
Order and purchase basic material.
Carry out preparatory work.
Prepare consumables.
Purchase a tool.
Conclude agreements with contractors.

How to build a house from timber with your own hands

First stage. Preparation of the land plot

clearing debris and vegetation,
alignment is performed using special equipment,
marking the formwork using pegs, cord and level,

Important! It is necessary to use the services of a specialist. The quality of construction depends on this process.

Second phase. Construction of the foundation according to the developed project

Main types of foundation

,
for houses with a basement or cellar.
Pile foundation,
for problematic soils.
shallow depth,
for a small house.

Third stage. Construction of load-bearing walls and partitions of a house made of wooden beams

Materials

Material used for self-installation should be dry and light

Necessary tool

Electric circular saw.
Drill with a set of wood drill bits.
and roulette.
Ax and hammer.
Nails and screws.

Work process

The first crown is laid on the foundation along the perimeter. Previously, the foundation is laid with roofing felt, as waterproofing, and a layer of jute.

For information! The crown is called rows of timber laid vertically. Jute sealant is necessary to seal the seams between the beams.

Subsequent crowns are mounted according to the layout of the project. Between themselves wooden parts connected by dowels. Through holes are drilled with a smaller diameter than the thickness of the stud. They hammer it in with a hammer, and cut off the excess protruding part to fit the base.

The bars are connected to each other, in places of ligation with the partitions using a tongue-and-groove ligament. In the corners, for greater strength, three types of joints are used:

Important! It is easier to cut connection nodes using a pre-made template. The cuts are made taking into account the allowance for the insulation. The connections will be smooth and reliable nodes.

Jute is also placed between the crowns and in the joints. On the second crown, beams for flooring are embedded. Under each part, at a distance of 1.5 meters, supports are laid out from ceramic bricks. After installation of the fourth crown, a rough flooring is made from boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

Subsequent rows of timber are laid identically to the previous ones, but taking into account the details for door and window openings.

For ease of operation and safety, when lifting parts, slopes with a stopper are used. The device is made of two boards with padded wedge stops. The slopes rest against the wall with the upper edge, and the lower edge is held on the ground by a stopper. With the help of a rope, the timber is lifted up the wall along the slopes by one person. Scaffolding is assembled inside the room.

Important! Each new row of laid timber is monitored by level without fail.

The final two crowns are mounted around the entire perimeter and above all openings. The process of assembling the log house is completed by laying the ceiling beams. Then the Mauerlat is matted onto them to assemble the roof.

We equip the openings of doors and windows with casing boxes made of boards at least 30 mm thick. We fasten them with simple nails. The casings play the role of compensators during the shrinkage of a new building and do not allow the rows of timber to deform.

Before installing the roof, an upper ceiling deck made of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and an attic floor are sewn on.

Fourth stage. Roofing device

To install roofing structures and coverings, it is necessary to use the services of a team of specialists. This is a responsible job, the result of which determines the comfort, coziness, and service life of the entire house,

Fifth stage. Installation of blocks

After the house has settled, window and door blocks are installed to close the perimeter before finishing. Then insulation and finishing of external walls. Insulation of the attic space.

Sixth stage. Finishing

The final stage of all construction activities is the finishing of internal walls and ceilings. Installation of life support engineering systems.

Conclusion

When building a house with your own hands, you can save significantly on the main stage of building construction. , so as not to allow their own.

The assembly itself is not difficult to perform; it is enough to see it once and follow the project correctly.

The result will be positive.