Boiler fencing in the bathhouse. How to properly make a ventilation system in a sauna with an electric heater: technical nuances. Fireproof foundation for the furnace

Stove heating is considered a fire hazard, and therefore is allowed according to SNiP 41-01-2003 only in one-story bathhouses with no more than 25 seats (people). The stove is dangerous primarily because wood burns in it. If the stove is used carelessly, burning logs may be dumped, sparks and flames may be ejected from the firebox door, or fire may be emitted in the event of emergency destruction of the stove walls.

The formation of cracks in brick and metal stoves, although an emergency, seems to be a common occurrence in everyday life. These cracks are especially dangerous in areas that are inaccessible to routine visual inspection, such as areas adjacent to wooden walls and ceilings. Even small cracks with a thickness of only 2-3 mm can be dangerous, and in brick kilns due to the fact that fluffy soot can accumulate in them: either resinous at the beginning of the fire in the chimneys, or dry in the chimney. Dry soot, but fresh, is more dangerous. A layer of soot more than 2-3 mm thick is already capable of igniting from sparks in flue gases. A smooth, dull hum suddenly appears in the chimneys, a smooth yellow glow without flashes appears in the cracks of the cleaning holes and valves, and a wide, blurry plume of smoke emerges from the chimney on the roof with the possible appearance of sparks and even flames. Soot combustion occurs in smoldering mode in much the same way as tissue paper smolders - with a slow front that easily penetrates into all nooks and crannies smoke system, including emergency cracks, burnouts and technological openings (doors, valves), also usually clogged with soot.

Heated surfaces of ovens can also pose a danger. In accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003, the maximum temperature of the furnace surface “should not exceed 120°C on a furnace area of ​​no more than 5% of the total surface area of ​​the furnace” (and on areas of more than 5% it can exceed 120°C?!). This inarticulateness has been living in SNiPs since 1975! In rooms with temporary occupancy, when installing protective screens, it is allowed to use ovens with a surface temperature above 120°C. Such norms are very vague and are perceived by summer residents simply as measures to prevent burns from touching. In particular, it is not explained what a screen is, what screen designs are permissible, and whether stoves with wall temperatures above 120°C are allowed in rooms where there are no people at all. At the same time, SNiP 41-01-2003 does not limit the temperature of cast iron flooring, doors and other stove appliances.

The state standard GOST 9817-95 is more specific; without any reservations it is established that the temperature of the outer surfaces of the apparatus (household, operating on solid fuel) should not exceed 120°C at the front and back walls and 80°C on the side walls, and the floor temperature under the device should not be more than 50°C. At the same time, the standard, while providing for the presence of a hob, does not stipulate in any way the temperature requirements for it.

Norms fire safety NPB 252-98, also recognizing a temperature of 120°C as the maximum for the external surfaces of stoves, nevertheless allows in rooms with temporary occupancy of people (up to 2 hours a day) a temperature of the external surfaces of stoves up to 320°C. The temperature of cast iron flooring and similar parts of devices is not limited. The temperature of the firebox door should be no more than 320°C. The temperature of the contact points of heated furnace elements with flammable materials should be no more than 50°C.

Typical spontaneous combustion (spontaneous combustion) temperature of wood, the main source fire danger in baths, is 330-470°C. Therefore, the above regulatory requirements are an attempt to ensure, supposedly, the fire safety of the stove during its normal operation, although everyone is well aware that there are no fireproof stoves at all, especially if the danger of ignition remains on hot cast iron (cooking, heating, technological) floorings.

Fire safety is a multi-level concept. The first level is, of course, the safety noted above during normal operation. As a second level, you can take insurance against possible emergency situations, including fire hazards. For example, if the firebox of a metal stove burns out, the metal outer casing (protective screen) of the stove should ensure safety. And if the furnace masonry collapses and bricks begin to fall out of the walls of the firebox, then the metal cover (case) of the furnace must be saved before repairs. And such cases have long been widely used in the 17th century. Western Europe, and then in urban estates in Russia. Under Soviet conditions, it was forbidden to convert stoves laid in a quarter of a brick and without a metal cover to gas. If burning wood or firebrands fall out of the firebox, it can save you from a fire a metal sheet on the floor, although it most likely should be classified as the next third level of safety - to prevent a fire in the room during the development of a possible fire-hazardous stove accident, as well as in the case of careless or inept operation of the stove, including a faulty or improperly installed one. Fire prevention is achieved by protecting the building envelope (floors, walls, ceilings) with non-flammable, low thermal conductivity and heat-resistant materials(fireproof). The fourth level is ensuring the possibility of evacuation and rescue of people in case of fire, restrictions material damage. Finally, the last, fifth level is ensuring the ability to effectively extinguish a fire and preserve the building. The specified gradation is arbitrary. Each summer resident has the right to prioritize the list of requirements of SNiP 21-01-97 “Fire safety of buildings and structures” in relation to his bathhouse. In any case, the actions of the summer resident must contain the meaning of the normative rules, since they are drawn up so declaratively.

It is clear that the concept of fire resistance of structures discussed in the previous section refers primarily to the fourth and fifth levels of fire safety. As for the first three levels safety, then they seem to be the most difficult for engineering analysis and must first of all be provided by the developer (manufacturer) of the furnace in accordance with state regulations regulatory requirements, and the standards allow the developer of factory products to install own rules installation of the stove indoors in accordance with the technical quality of the product. However, the reality of rural and country life is such that the bulk of stoves are built independently, often according to their own understanding, and are sometimes in such a depressing state that the main concern is the integrity of the stove and pipe. Under these conditions, keeping the furnace away from combustible walls seems to be a priority. Therefore, it is quite natural that, methodologically, SNiP 41-01-2003 places the main emphasis on the third level of safety - on preventing fire in the event of emergency destruction of the furnace. This can be solved with the help of setbacks and furnace cuttings, as well as fire protection of the walls.

The setback (setback, gap, air gap) from the fire to foreign combustible objects is the most ancient method protecting the habitat from the flammable effects of fires. It is possible to normalize the amount of offset for fires only very conditionally, since everything depends on the type of fuel, its quantity in the fire, the presence of wind, etc. Thus, in bathhouse life it was believed that the distance from an open flame to log walls was equal to one fathom (1 fathom = 2 arshins = 2.13 m), quite enough in the conditions of smoking baths, otherwise the fire should have been “planted” in a hole in the ground or in a depression in a pile of cobblestones. In warehousing, the conventionally safe distance between stacks of lumber is 12 meters. In forest areas, in order to prevent the spread of fires, the width of clearings is increased to 20 meters or more.

The greatest fire hazard of all sauna stoves are unshielded metal stoves(“potbelly stoves”), which can become “red-hot” or even “white-hot” (white-hot). National Association Standard fire protection USA NFPA No. 211-1984 provides for a setback of 1 yd = 0.91 m for unshielded solid fuel stoves from combustible surfaces. Actual measurements of temperatures developed on the surface of a wooden wall facing an unshielded metal stove give the following typical values: at a distance of 100 cm from a hot stove 80°C, at a distance of 50 cm - 110°C, and at a distance of 25 cm - 150°C (SI. Taubkin. Fires and explosions, features of their examination, M.: VNIIPO, 1999). In the manual on military engineering in the USSR (1966), instructions were given: for fire safety purposes, stoves and chimneys (standard or made from scrap materials, including metal) should be placed no closer than 25 cm from flammable parts of dugouts or other field residential or commercial buildings. In dacha conditions, a retreat of 25 cm is too small (although such a recommendation, unfortunately without explanation, is found in popular literature). In accordance with SNiP III-B.3-55, the distance from metal furnaces (without lining) to adjacent (this unsuccessful, but preserved term in SNiP 41-01-2003 means “next to each other”) combustible structures was determined to be 100 cm to the walls , not protected from fire, and equal to 70 cm to walls protected from fire (Fig. 165). For metal pipes, the setback was determined to be 50 cm in size from combustible walls protected from fire and 70 cm in size from unprotected combustible walls (recall that the terms “flammable” and “combustible” were subsequently replaced in SNiP 01/21/97 by the terms “flammable” and "flammable").

In subsequent editions of the stove heating design standards (SNiP II-33-75, SNiP 2.04.05-86, SNiP 2.04.05-91 and SNiP 41-01-2003), the above requirements for the size of deviations disappeared without a trace, apparently on the grounds that SNiP II-33-75 determined that for stove heating only such stoves should be provided whose surface temperature should not exceed 120 ° C (except for cast iron flooring, doors and other stove appliances). This means that unshielded stoves have become prohibited for design, but the trouble is that at the same time absolutely all metal stoves have remained without design standards to this day. The only thing that SNiP 41-01-2003 normalizes for metal stoves is the distance between the top of a metal stove with a non-thermal insulated ceiling (heater, hob) and an unprotected ceiling of 1200 mm (previously in SNiP II-33-75 this distance was 1000 mm). To clarify the situation, SNiP 2.04.05-91 and SNiP 41-01-2003 determine that the deviation values ​​must be established by the manufacturer of metal furnaces. However, it is clear that in conditions of market relations, rarely does any plant want to take on the responsibility and costs of determining its own standards (especially in conditions when the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation and the Fire Supervision Authority have withdrawn themselves from standardization). Therefore, as a rule, technical factory documentation is limited to requirements such as that “the furnace must be installed at a distance of at least 500 mm to combustible structures in accordance with GOST 9817-95 in compliance with current fire safety standards NPB 252-98” (although GOST 9817-95 applies only to devices with a water circuit, and fire safety standards NPB 252-98 do not contain any requirements for deviations). Under these conditions, individual manufacturers of metal furnaces have essentially the only legally flawless option for installing any furnace - close to a fire-resistant wall (see above). Unfortunately, in most cases, a summer resident does not have such fire-resistant walls in his bathhouse, and the setback of the stove from non-flammable fireproof (but not fire-resistant) walls is also not defined by the standards. So, the summer resident has to rely not on official norms and rules, but on engineering considerations.

: 1 - unshielded firebox wall, 2 - shielded firebox wall, 3 - combustible wall, 4 - wall or ceiling protection ( steel sheet 0.55 mm over a 10 mm layer of asbestos cardboard), 5 - flammable ceiling, 6 - metal sheet cutting without protection of the end of the ceiling opening, 7 - metal sheet cutting with protection of the end of the ceiling opening according to the method pos. 4, 8 - lower part of the welded steel groove, 9 - upper part of the welded steel groove, 10 - insulation. Dimensions without stars comply with current SNiP 41-01-2003 standards. Dimensions with stars correspond to the canceled SNiP III-B standards. 3-55 and SNiP II-33-75.

: 1 - shielded stove, 2 - unscreened chimney, turning at the ceiling into a screened and insulated one, 3 - steel stove screens, 4 - combustible wall, 5 - steel wall screens, 6 - combustible ceiling, 7 - pipe screen, 8 - insulating layer of basalt wool, 9 - non-flammable sealant (insulation), 10 - technological air gap, playing the role of a heater gap (indentation), 11 - ventilation holes(not recommended for steam baths).

As an example, we give recommendations from Finnish companies for installing shielded metal furnaces (Fig. 166). The essence of the solution is that in order to reduce the surface temperature of the furnace and thereby reduce the flow of radiant heat, the furnace is screened in the usual way using metal or brick screens. These screens simultaneously play the role of fire-retarding surfaces, preventing the creation of fire hazardous situations in the event of emergency destruction (burnout, cracking) of the firebox. Installation of these screens allows you to reduce the size of the setback from 1000 mm to 500 mm (even according to Russian standards). Further, to prevent a fire (ignition of a combustible wall in the event of a fire hazard resulting from the destruction of the firebox and screens), the surface of the combustible wall is screened with steel sheets, and one screen, spaced at least 30 mm from the wall, reduces the size of the indentation to 250 mm and two screen - up to 125 mm. This size of deviation is already unprecedented for Russian conditions: even factory-made metal gas boilers with cold water-cooled walls are usually located, according to factory technical documentation, at a distance of no closer than 100 mm from fireproof walls (but not fireproof ones). To explain their standards, the Finns claim that the screen protection of the walls does not allow them to heat up above 50°C under normal operating conditions. But the concept of normal operation in Russian conditions is very vague: due to careless installation and careless handling, sheets of screen protection can be deformed, shifted, etc. (for example, when the frame of a building wobbles, including seasonally, during shrinkage, when trying to store in metal, supposedly very cold, dry gaps, firewood, wood chips, paper), and the screens themselves can be used for drying linen or clothes. Narrow gaps (hard to reach for a brush) can also become a source of fire hazard due to the natural accumulation of dust, wood flour, and sawdust. Therefore, the Finns, moving in general very promising direction screen protection, it is absolutely reasonable to introduce factory-made specialized hollow air-blown metal double panels(“light insulation protective casings”) resistant to temperature fluctuations, mechanical compressive loads and protected from excessive penetration of flammable airborne particles. It is clear that in terms of thermal protection (but not in terms of thermal insulation), such hollow panels are more effective than conventional “sandwich” panels filled with heat-resistant basalt wool. At the same time, the “sandwich” principle is indispensable for insulation 8 (namely insulation, not protection from overheating) of chimneys 2, although the principle of a hollow panel is sometimes secretly present in Finnish-made shielded chimneys in the form of an air gap 10, maybe even blown 11 (Fig. 166).

The current Russian standards SNiP 41-01-2003 do not yet use the principle of screen protection of walls from fires. To protect combustible walls, it is prescribed to use plaster 25 mm thick metal mesh or a metal sheet on asbestos cardboard 8-10 mm thick (previously SNiP II-33-75 allowed, in addition, in the absence of asbestos cardboard, construction (natural wool) felt in one, and on the ceiling in two layers, impregnated clay mortar followed by plastering over a metal mesh). Metal sheet protection against asbestos is very reliable mechanically even in Russian conditions, but the fire-retardant efficiency is not so high: the thermal conductivity of asbestos is at the level of the thermal conductivity of wood, and the fire resistance limit of plaster and steel against asbestos does not exceed EI15. Increasing the efficiency of metal-asbestos protection can be achieved by installing an additional metal screen, spaced from the metal sheet pressing the asbestos to the wall at a distance of 20-50 mm. Wavy ones look very good as a screen in baths. roofing sheets or corrugated sheeting that goes well with the lining. We also note that reducing offsets to sizes less than 250 mm in baths is inconvenient; it is also undesirable to close these offsets even on one side. It is advisable to insulate the floor in retreats, even open ones, with at least a metal sheet. Let us note in this regard that at all times in closed (closed at the ends) floors have always been protected with steel or brick, and according to current standards, a non-combustible floor in a closed retreat should be located 70 mm above the floor of the room.

In addition to the walls in the furnace unit, it is necessary to protect not only the walls, but also the floors and ceilings. Moreover, in bathhouses a particular danger is posed by the high temperature of the ceiling, which is quite high even during normal operation. In the case of powerful metal furnaces, the 1200 mm offset of the unprotected ceiling from the top of the furnace, provided for in SNiP 41-01-2003, seems insufficient. The ceiling above a metal stove must always be protected, including with metal screens, which on the ceiling can have the most various shapes, providing both protection from radiant flows and deflecting hot air flows to the sides (item 11 in Fig. 165).

As for the floor, it is always directly adjacent to the stove, and it would seem that fire safety rules should categorize floors according to the degree of fire resistance. However, SNiP 41-01-2003 does not impose any restrictions on the design of floors and only provides for a setback from the fire in the stove (in the firebox, in the ash pan, in the smoke circulation, in the smoke duct) from the floor (Fig. 167):

The minimum distances from the floor level of flammable materials to the bottom of the ash pit are 140 mm, to the bottom of the gas circulation - 210 mm,

When frame stoves, including on legs, the floor made of flammable materials should be protected from fire by sheet steel on asbestos cardboard 10 mm thick, and the distance from the bottom of the stove to the floor should be at least 100 mm,

When constructing a ceiling or floor made of non-combustible material, the bottom of the ash pit and gas circuit can be located at floor level,

The floor of combustible materials in front of the stove under the combustion door should be protected with a metal sheet measuring 700x500 mm, placed with the long side along the stove, and the floor around the stove “at a distance of at least 150 mm exceeding the dimensions of the stove” (as amended by SNiP 41-01-2003 ), protected with a steel sheet on asbestos cardboard 8 mm thick.

Thus, you can focus on two sizes of indentation from the fire to the combustible floor: 210 mm of air or brick in the absence of floor protection and 100 mm in the presence of protection. Often the floor under a metal stove is protected with brickwork, but in low-heat-capacity baths it is advisable to use low-heat-conducting and low-heat-capacity materials such as foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, rigid basalt wool slabs and even Finnish hollow air-blown metal panels 10 instead of concrete slabs 9 (Fig. 167). Let us note in passing that air-blown gaps 11, which increase the heat-shielding properties of the plates, are permissible only in dry high-temperature saunas, where condensation of vapors between the plate and the floor is not observed.

: a - a layer of fireproof material A from the floor (or combustible structure) to the bottom of the ash pit (fuel pit, gas circuit); b - for frame (including metal) stoves with an air gap B while simultaneously protecting the floor with sheet steel on asbestos cardboard 10 mm thick; c - a concrete slab with a gap under it (Finnish recommendation); g - a lightweight pallet made of two parallel metal sheets with a gap between the pallet and the floor (Finnish recommendation). 1 - firebox of the stove, 2 - outer screen (casing) of the stove, 3 - combustible floor, 4 - steel sheet along the entire floor of the stove assembly, 5 - brickwork in two layers on the subfloor to the level of the finished floor, then continue laying another layer on a metal sheet inside the furnace to form a solid bottom (hearth) of the firebox, 6 - metal sheet on a layer of asbestos cardboard, 7 - a layer of asbestos cardboard 8 mm thick for walls and 10 mm for the floor, 8 - metal screen, 9 - concrete slab, 10 - a lightweight pallet made of two parallel steel sheets welded along the perimeter, 11 - an air gap between the slab or pallet and the combustible floor. Standardized dimensions, no less: A = 210 mm, B = 100 mm (SNiP 41.01-2003), C = 60 mm, D = 300 mm (recommendation of Finnish companies for their furnaces).

As for brick kilns, the rules for their installation in SNiP 41-01-2003 are developed in more detail. In methodological terms, the safe characteristic size of the retreat from the fire (in a brick kiln) to unprotected combustible walls is at least 500 mm, and protected - 380 mm. The same dimensions are accepted for cuttings near stoves and smoke ducts. Cuttings were born historically as local thickening of the walls of chimneys at the points of passage through the ceilings. Then, when the stove business developed so much that stoves began to be installed in wall openings, the gaps between the stove and the walls to the entire height of the stove and above began to be filled with brick, and this brickwork, which was not necessarily connected to the stove, also began to be called cutting. The furnace groove is a non-combustible part of the furnace that increases the thickness of the furnace wall at the point of contact with the combustible walls. We can say that the cutting is a bricked retreat. Since the modern cutting size is very large (500 mm), part of the cutting can be done by expanding the pipe with brick, and part with metal, and so that possible seasonal “festivities” do not lead to its damage. The summer resident must, in addition, provide for the settlement of the log (timber) structure and make the thickness of the pipe cut greater than the thickness of the ceiling (or the thickness of the wall, which can move).

Cuttings, of course, are also made for metal pipes, but not from brick, but from metal, a flexible material and therefore more reliable in conditions of movement of enclosing structures relative to the pipe. Cutting metal pipes is often done in bathhouse life as needed, specific technical solutions dozens. The simplest cutting is a whole sheet of metal in the ceiling opening with a hole for a pipe in the middle. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 500 mm from the pipe to the combustible structures (most likely to the ceiling lining). A fireproof heat-resistant backfill (insulation) can be laid on top of a sheet of metal, and a second sheet of metal (can be split) with holes for the passage of the chimney can be laid on top of the upper surface of the ceiling. Such cutting 6 (Fig. 165) can be supplemented with protection of the ceiling by metal 7. Welded cuttings 8 and 9 are more convenient, forming a sealed passage (channel) for repeated reinstallation of the pipe without affecting the insulation 10. Note that according to Russian standards, shielding and insulation of metal pipes (Fig. 166) do not give the right to reduce the pipe cutting size to less than 380 mm, whereas Finnish recommendations provide such an opportunity for thin wooden floors with a thickness of less than 30 mm. Moreover, chimneys Previously, it was prohibited to adjoin non-combustible metal load-bearing elements of the building, since mechanical strength metal decreases at high temperatures. Indeed, in the event of a burnout of a pipe or an emergency blockage of the pipe head (for example, by a dead bird), the flue gases will be forced to escape through emergency cracks in the masonry or leaks in the pipe, heating adjacent structures (including sparks).

A summer resident installing a stove in his small, cramped bathhouse for the first time may have a lot of questions about providing effective protection against possible fires. Let us emphasize once again that safety rules are not developed for the normal functioning of the facility, but specifically for cases of unforeseen accidents of buildings or equipment. Therefore, in ordinary cases, it is better to simply play it safe and choose the cutting sizes and offset to the maximum (even to the detriment of comfort) with reliable protection walls Behind the annoying silences of the official rules lies traditional Russian negligence, which is even more clearly manifested in the actual construction of bathhouses, replete with a myriad of violations: in almost any bathhouse you can find facts of non-compliance with the standardized sizes of cuts and deviations. The most dangerous (and, unfortunately, the most frequent) violations are observed when inserting metal stoves into combustible walls, especially in terms of compliance with height standards. Therefore, it is absolutely clear that if Russian standards are liberalized in Finnish style, then it is possible that summer residents will sometimes install metal shielded stoves close to wooden walls, if only for the simple reason that the outer walls of another shielded stove are completely cold (with a temperature no higher than 50 °C).

A stove in a bathhouse is an important and dangerous element, so it is better to understand in advance the issues of installing it and protecting it from its heat, so that you can then use the bathhouse for as long as possible, protecting yourself from fires.

What types of stoves can be used in a sauna?

Today, the choice of steamer is extremely diverse: you can buy a stove and make it yourself, or buy it and modify it, but there are a lot of options. Let's reduce them to several main types. Ovens are:

• brick;
• metal (including);
• electric.

Brick kilns

Traditional “in white” are brick. They have a number of advantages, since there is a direct connection between such a stove and the requirements of a Russian bath.

In particular, the brick kiln provides uniform heating, and most importantly - light steam , that is, formed at high temperature, from which the steamer does not have breathing problems, as from heavy low-temperature steam.

But the brick oven also has its own flaws. Built entirely of brick, it will heavy, expensive and will require some skill in maintenance(!inexpensive stove options are presented in). You need to decide at the design stage, because there will be costs for .

Heaters in brick kilns come in all types:

• flow-through, where they are washed by fire;
• deaf, where the stone is separated by a solid sheet of metal from the fire;
• open– with stones on the surface;
• – with a door covering the heater compartment;
• bell-shaped- a type of closed blind with more efficient heating.

Metal furnaces

A very common option because it more budget compared with a solid brick stove. , or steel– both of different brands.

IMPORTANT! A metal stove without a surround will overheat the room. This is good for a sauna, but not for a Russian bath.

The fact is that metal heats up quickly, and stones heat up slowly. And always during the heating Most of the heat is released into the room. Bare metal will give off too much heat to the room, which should not heat above 40-60 degrees. And the stone must heat up to 400 degrees to produce light steam. This creates a big contradiction: To heat the stone to get good steam, you will have to overheat the bathhouse..

The solution to this problem is usually to install brick lining around . This redistributes the heat released during combustion, the brick accumulates it and releases it more softly and for a long time than metal.

On the other side, they are suitable for saunas, where the air temperature is higher and the steam is several times less.

TO shortcomings This type of oven also includes the fact that they not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Therefore, the bath procedure has to be interrupted in order to heat the stove again.

The cost of a metal stove will be lower than a brick one also because for it you don't need such a strong foundation. A foundation is sometimes necessary, but it can be shallow, and in some cases they are generally limited to a layer of refractories under the stove and that’s it.

There are a lot of varieties of metal stoves - both homemade and factory-made. One of them is worth mentioning separately.

Electric heaters

Electric ovens were originally. But then models appeared that are capable of working in Russian bath mode. Those who decide to opt for should find out whether the selected model has one or two modes. However, there is a simple criterion:

IMPORTANT! Models with a load of stones of 20-40 kilograms are intended exclusively for saunas; you simply cannot pour a lot of water on them. Models for Russian baths begin with a load of stones of 60 kilograms.

Electric heaters are usually bought by those who expect to receive quick results with a minimum of effort. There is no need to cook firewood or wait for the stove to heat up (! Dedicated to wood stoves). It all comes down solely to electricity costs (well, electric heaters themselves cost a lot). The second advantage of these stoves is that they are quite compact, and up to a certain weight they can also be mounted on the wall, freeing up space in the steam room. Floor-standing models allow free rearrangement - they are not connected to chimneys and foundations.

Where to put the stove in the bathhouse?

The location of the stove depends on many factors, in particular, on its type, as well as on the location of the firebox (in the same or in an adjacent room). In addition, fire safety is important - all fuel must be at least half a meter away.

So, those who decided to install it make a foundation for it, so the location is already determined at the sketch stage. But with a metal stove, sometimes people delay until the last minute, not knowing which model to buy. Therefore, it happens that the walls are already ready have to cut, and do other extra work.

IMPORTANT! The location of the supply air depends on the location of the stove, so it’s better to think in advance.

In addition to ventilation, it is worth thinking about fire safety, especially in a bathhouse with flammable walls. Often, in order to provide it, part of the wall is made of brick. Which again speaks to the need for planning.

The location of the stove in a bathhouse with a separate steam room

There can be two options:

• or the stove, together with the firebox, is located entirely in the steam room, which means it only heats it;
• or the firebox is moved to the adjacent room, which allows for partial heating of that room too.

The location of the stove in a bathhouse with a separate steam room: option with a firebox from the rest room. Scheme from

In the first case, in the cold season you will have to think about how and with what to heat neighboring rooms, in the second - the same problem remains only partially.

Stove in a bathhouse with washing and steam room

Here you can also find several solutions. The firebox can be taken not to the rest room or dressing room, but to the washing room. But this is problematic from the point of view of storing firewood. Therefore there are other options.

Stove in a bathhouse with washing and steam room

IMPORTANT! A separate foundation for a brick kiln is made so that it has its own shrinkage, not related to the shrinkage of the house.

Such a foundation is made thoroughly, deepened to the load-bearing layer. If the stove weighs more than 700 kg, but not by much, then you can make a shallow foundation.

Usually the foundation for the furnace is not brought up to the height of the subfloor, because then the bricks are laid and the height is compared. The area of ​​the furnace foundation should be more area base of the stove 15-20 cm on each side.

The video below clearly demonstrates the process self-filling foundation for a bathhouse. The video is a little dark, but it gives you an idea of ​​the process.

Finishing before installing the stove

Installing a stove is the final stage, which is preceded by numerous preparatory work, especially in a bathhouse with flammable walls. There are general rules according to which you can safely place a stove in a bathhouse.

Fire requirements

The floor, walls, and ceiling must be protected from a burning stove.

IMPORTANT! The first rule states that the minimum distance from a very hot object should be at least half a meter.

Let's consider the option when the furnace firebox is located in the room adjacent to the steam room. If the wall is wooden, then an opening is made in it either immediately or after construction is completed. Its size is significantly larger than the size of the fuel channel.

Those who build a special brick wall around the fuel channel do the right thing. Its dimensions can be determined either by the requirements that are in the oven passport(if we are talking about something purchased in a store metal stove), or, if the stove is homemade, then the minimum distance to the wood of the wall is 38 cm, but it’s safer to make it 50 cm. If you use heat insulators resistant to high temperatures, then the distance can be cut a little - to 25-36 cm.

IMPORTANT! The brick should not touch the fuel channel; a layer of heat insulator is placed between the metal and the brick, capable of withstanding temperatures of 800-1000 degrees. Glass wool is not suitable. Like mineral wool with binders, because the latter are organic matter that will evaporate into the air when heated and will poison people.

The chimney also needs thermal insulation, because the metal one heats up to high temperatures. The insulation material is the same able to withstand intense heat.

The ceiling above the stove often causes fires, so it is recommended to decorate it with fireproofing ( mineralite,basalt cardboard). The area of ​​the latter should be one third larger than the area of ​​the top of the oven.

When using electric heaters, grounding should not be neglected.

IMPORTANT! Make a separate grounding loop for the steam room.

Floor protection is usually done like this: regardless of whether there is a foundation or not, a base of bricks is made under the stove, on which a sheet of asbestos cardboard 12 mm thick is laid, and a steel sheet is placed on top of it. In some cases, the first brick layer is not done.

IMPORTANT! Asbestos cardboard and steel sheet in front of the firebox should protrude half a meter, and on the remaining three sides they can be 3 cm wider than the base.

By the way, some people place stoves not on bricks and metal, but on porcelain stoneware or other durable tiles made of natural or artificial stone.

IMPORTANT! For those who are afraid of asbestos, we can recommend basalt cardboard. In addition, it holds up to 700 degrees instead of the limit of 500 for asbestos cardboard. There is also fireproof boards, withstanding up to 1100 degrees.

Useful video

And here is a video on the topic: fun and quickly the guys laid out a brick wall for.

Flood sheet

It can be done yourself from a sheet of tin, or you can buy it in a store that sells good stainless steel flood sheets.

You can put such a sheet under the entire stove, or you can just put it in front of the fire door to protect the floor from sparks and embers. There are flooding sheets of different sizes on sale: from small to meter-long.

Instead of metal, it is permissible to use any other heat-resistant material. As already mentioned, this can be tiles made of stone or other material.

Tiles for the steam room in the bathhouse near the stove

Let's take a closer look at the tiles for the steam room. Despite the fact that it can be used more widely in the bathhouse, we are only interested in the stove area. There are suitable tiles with the following properties:

• heat resistance;
• thickness from 8 mm;
• low porosity.

Since we are not talking about decorative cladding, but about a simple refractory base on which the stove will stand, you should not pay attention to glazed types of tiles. They are, of course, double fired, but this glaze will crack and crumble under the influence of temperature.

Tiles for the steam room in the bathhouse near the stove

Porcelain tiles wouldn't fit if you decided to put it where people would walk, but under the stove - quite suitable.

Also suitable: metlakhskaya, clinker, terracotta tiles When choosing, be guided by the characteristics mentioned above.

In addition to ceramic tiles, it is quite acceptable to place the stove on tiles made of natural stone– here the choice is yours; any not too thin stone tile suitable for a bathhouse will do. That is Not marble(!), and, let's say, coil, gabbro and so on.

Decorating wooden walls near the stove in the steam room

If the stove was not located next to the wall, then no protection for the wooden wall would be needed at all. So it's all about distance - for a brick oven it is 32 cm, for metal without lining – 1 m, with lining – 70 cm. But there is usually not enough space in the steam room, so the stove is placed almost flush with the wall or even in a corner. Or her firebox is brought into an adjacent room, and the length of the fuel channel is 25 cm - there’s no way to keep it further away.

Therefore, they often place in a wooden bathhouse brick wall where the oven will be located. The scheme has already been described above - with distances and thermal insulation.

It is permissible to put a layer on top of the wood plaster more than 25 mm thick on a metal mesh.

You can also use sheets of one or another heat-resistant material, but this is called “ protective screen"and its varieties will be discussed below. In some cases on top of screens decorative heat-resistant tiles, for example, terracotta, are glued. Or metal sheets are attached to the same refractory base.

Depending on the type of finishing, you have to do it either before, or you can do it after. For example, a brick wall or screen must be made in advance.

Video

Video on the topic: a video about how to take into account the shrinkage of a log house when installing refractories.

Installing a stove in a steam room

The installation of a purchased stove is always described in detail in the instructions supplied with it. If the stove is brick, then it is installed by a stove maker. Homemade options remain.

Heavy stoves are placed on a foundation, while light stoves are placed only on a brick or other heat-resistant base.

We have already told you how to protect the wall from overheating if the firebox is in an adjacent room. If the firebox is in a steam room, you need to take care good room ventilation, because otherwise the oxygen will quickly burn out.

Walls, floor and ceiling protected by fireproof materials. After installing the stove on the prepared base, you still need to prepare a system for heating water and install a chimney. The latter needs special attention because he also represents fire danger.

Box for the passage of the chimney through the ceiling for installation

The chimney should be wrapped with heat-insulating material (basalt cardboard, for example) from the exit point through the ceiling of the steam room and to the roof top. At the exit through the ceiling, the chimney passes through a metal box for the heat insulator, and at the exit from the roof (if the roof is insulated) - through another layer of heat insulation, bonded to the pipe with a heat-resistant sealant or (if the roof is cold) - through a special sealed penetration.

Features of installing the stove on a wooden floor

This is also done if the total weight of the stove with all screens and chimneys is less than 700 kg. However, if your stove is supported by 4 legs, then they will put more pressure on the base at the support points than the same stove without legs. Hence, need to distribute the load, placing the stove on a solid base between it and the floor.

IMPORTANT! Another condition for installing the stove on a wooden floor will be a thick batten and strong joists under the floor.

You can lay a sheet of refractory material on the floor - asbestos or basalt cardboard, with a sheet thickness of 12 mm. On top of it is a metal sheet. We have already written about how they should protrude beyond the furnace.

Instead of metal, you can put brick, ceramics or natural stone.

Oven protection for people and walls

It's time to talk about a protective screen, as well as a fence that will protect steamers from accidental burns.

Video

Watch another short video about how this is done in one bath:

Protective screen for the stove in the steam room

Only metal stoves create problems with overheating in the bathhouse. To combat this, several types of screens have been created, each of which is better or worse suited to solving the following problems:

• protection of the steam room from overheating, hard infrared radiation, converting it into softer radiation and heat accumulation;
• protection of a wall made of flammable material from overheating and fire;
• regulation of heat exchange in the steam room.

In first place in popularity will be brick screen. This is a masonry of solid bricks on either 2, 3, or 4 sides around the stove. Wherein There must be a distance of 5-10 cm between the screen and the oven.

IMPORTANT! Masonry is most often done in half a brick - this is the middle position between masonry in a quarter of a brick and in a whole brick. The thinnest one does not prevent overheating, but it does not take so long to heat the bathhouse. The thickest masonry is closest to the parameters of a brick oven - the temperature will not be high, it will take a long time to heat, but the heat will be soft and long-lasting.

For heat exchange, holes are made at the bottom of the brick screen. They can be closed with doors, or you can simply insert bricks into them. When they are open, hot air from the stove enters the steam room and accelerates heating.

IMPORTANT! Holes are required at the bottom of the screen. In other places - at the request of the owner.

The height of the brick screen should not be lower than the height of the oven, but how much higher it will be than the stove is up to the owner to decide. With one caveat: you shouldn’t build it all the way to the ceiling, because otherwise you’ll have to invest in the foundation as well. Add the weight of bricks and mortar to the weight of the stove and chimney to calculate the total weight and stay within the weight limit for a stove without a foundation.

By the way, masonry mortar is a mixture of clay and sand, without cement.

Watch the video to see what the mortar should be like and how to lay bricks correctly:

Another type of screen is made of metal. Metal screens are available with convection and without convection.

Convection– two-layer, hollow inside. The voids between the ribs are filled with air, and it conducts heat poorly, so it acts as a heat insulator. Such a screen is enough to lower the temperature and prevent the wall from catching fire. The holes in the screen are designed to allow air to circulate.

There are other screens that are simply a polished sheet of metal. Polishing reflects part of the IR radiation, reducing its absorption by the metal. This screen is designed to be mounted on a wall, but not directly on wood, but on a layer of refractory or on slats of thermal insulation. In the latter case, cooling occurs due to the air gap, so the rail should be several centimeters thick.

Refractories such as basalt or asbestos cardboard is attached directly to a wooden wall, and already to them - a sheet of metal. It is good to use ceramic dowels for fastening.

Often the furnace lining natural stone accompanied by insulation of the stove corner with the same material. This combination looks good.

Cheap metal screen option you can make it yourself from two sheets steel for roofing and 3/8 inch metal pipes. The tubes are attached to the wall, then the first layer of profile is placed on them. Then another layer of tubes and a second profile sheet. The structure should be 10 cm above the floor level and below the ceiling level by the same amount.

A type of screen can be plaster wall between the stove and the wooden wall.

Stove fencing in the steam room

Fencing sauna stove in the steam room: option “brick + tile + wood”

For the safety of those in the steam room, a fence is usually placed around the stove to prevent them from accidentally touching the hot metal. It differs from the screen in that usually made of wood and is not intended to interfere with thermal radiation.

Knowing who will visit the bathhouse in the future, it is worth making a denser fence in advance, which will prevent small children stick your hand into the stove. If the bathhouse adults only, then simple railings around the stove with supports in the corners are sufficient.

Tree species matter: resinous ones are not suitable. The best thing alder or Linden.

Now all that remains is to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. Good luck!

The stove is the pride of any bath attendant. And a correctly installed heater is the subject of tireless admiration for the skills of the master and the directness of his hands. The place for the stove must be prepared from the very moment the walls are laid and appropriate changes must be made at each subsequent stage, so let’s look at the process in more detail.

What will we bet on?

The key is proper preparation places to install the stove, or, to be more precise, the base on the floor. The metal stove itself weighs about a hundredweight, add to this a load of 200-300 kg of stones, sometimes the weight is additionally increased due to the water heating tank.

Due to its significant mass, the oven should be placed on a durable and always hard surface. It can be conditionally combustible: there are no high temperatures in this zone, with the exception of a small area in front of the firebox, where burning coals can wake up.

In any of the options, it is better to prepare the place for installing the furnace at the stage of laying the foundation. This can be a cabinet made of brick or a block of reinforced concrete, cast along with the base of the building. This area is finished together with the main floor, but the presence of a massive block in the substrate will not allow the screed to be pushed through.

The requirement is not so critical for light electric heaters with a load of 60-80 kg of stones. They can even be installed on a wooden floor in dry saunas, but it would not be amiss to place a piece of 3-4 mm thick sheet steel under the stove. When installing on a wooden floor, it is important to pay attention to the shape of the stove legs. If it is supported pointwise, there is a high probability that the wooden floor will be pressed through and the stove will sag unevenly.

Fireproof lining

Not all modern heaters come with a heat-reflecting screen. Since the upper part of the stove can heat up to 200-250 °C, installing it closer than 35 cm from the walls cannot be considered safe. In any case, from intense thermal radiation wood trim will dry out greatly and lose durability.

Other ways to construct a heat-reflecting screen include lining with soapstone tiles, natural volcanic stone or magnesite slabs. The final choice is best made based on the availability of materials and their decorative value for your steam room. It is also not forbidden to use sheet steel coated with heat-resistant non-toxic paint and a basalt cardboard backing up to 2 cm thick. Obviously, the fireproof lining of the furnace should be carried out before covering the walls with wood.

The edges of the screen should be brought under the rectangular side and plastered with cement mortar so that the wood trim can be decorated with a gate with end strip. Ultimately, the lining should cover the walls 35 cm on either side of the stove body. The height of the lining on top is at least a meter, but usually it is extended all the way to the ceiling.

Fire door passage

A remote firebox for a sauna stove is an ideal option. When burning, oxygen and warm air do not steal from the steam room, there is no wood dust and debris, there is more free space. This installation is the most difficult to do on your own.

There is an opinion that a bathhouse is built around a stove; at least it is strongly recommended to install a partition between the dressing room and the steam room only after final installation heaters. It is noteworthy that before the construction of this wall, a heat-reflecting screen should already be laid out to the height of the stove.

At a distance of 50 cm from the walls of the firebox neck, two 100x60 cm beams are installed vertically; they are tightly adjacent to the furnace lining. The beams are aligned in the plane of the partition and secured with steel angles to the floor and ceiling. From these beams in both directions it is arranged frame wall with a 100 mm insulation layer, wooden lining sewn on a horizontal sheathing of 20 mm strips.

The space between the beams is filled with hollow clay bricks; the neck of the firebox must be carefully lined on both sides. The binder for masonry is a mixture of cement, sand and fireclay clay in a ratio of 1:2:5. The mixture of clay and sand is soaked for a day, cement is added immediately before use. Please note that both sides of the wall will be visible, so it is recommended to carry out the masonry using steel rods 10 mm thick, and carefully trim the extensions with a grinder.

The fight for aesthetics and safety

There should be a stove in the steam room in the right way ennobled. We are also talking about stoves located far from the walls without a protective lining; the whole point of the subsequent work is to correctly fit the metal body into the surroundings of the steam room and at the same time prevent accidental contact with heated surfaces.

The first option is the simplest and best suited for ovens with convection chambers. The arrangement consists of installing a parapet 15-20 cm high above the heater. The fence is installed 20 cm from the body with a standard heat shield and 35 cm without it. The parapet itself consists of 20x80 mm pickets exposed with drying oil, possibly with milling of the edges and shaped trimming of the heads. The planks are nailed with an indentation of 25-30 mm for sufficient ventilation. The basis of the fence is a frame assembled from 40x40 mm timber: pillars at the corners and two horizontal crossbars in each span.

If the heater does not have convection, it is very common practice to completely cover it with bricks. To do this, a reflective screen or a thin chrome-plated body is dismantled; these parts can be used in cutting the ceiling for a chimney. All that remains - the firebox and frame with a container for stones - is lined first with half fireclay bricks on pure fireclay clay, and then with a quarter of red clay brick on cement mortar. The top outer row is laid out in half a brick with a fold inward. With such a device, the heating inertia increases: the steam room will heat up a little longer, but the temperature at different combustion intensities will become approximately the same.

We install a chimney

To remove combustion products, it is recommended to use sandwich-type chimney pipes. In this case, it is better to arrange a section of 1-1.5 meters from the stove with a non-insulated steel pipe: it is easier for it to make turns, and the possibility of installing a tank or coil remains possible.

For the passage, two cuttings are performed: in the ceiling and roof; in the absence of an attic, they are combined. An opening in the ceiling is cut 25 cm from the chimney insulation casing, the space is filled with basalt wool.

The passage through the roof is made with a standard roof cut with a tin flange. This will require cutting wooden parts battens 30 cm from the pipe and strengthen rafter system. When assembling chimney elements, it is not recommended to seal the sockets; they are already compressed when heated.

If the moment is missed: stove in an operating bathhouse

In conclusion, we will talk about installing a stove in an already built bathhouse with interior decoration or replacing the heater. You know the basic installation requirements; all that remains is to think about the possibility of making changes to the design of the wall and floor.

In general, stoves up to 120 kg can be installed on wooden floors on joists, cement screed- up to 200 kg. For more massive heaters, you will need to cut out a fragment of the floor and remove upper layer soil. Next, a brick pedestal is laid 40-50 mm above the floor level. The junction areas of the floor are covered with a wooden plinth.

To remove the firebox, you will need to cut a meter-long opening in the wall and separate it with two racks of wooden beam. To install a fire-resistant lining, several vertical strips of wooden sheathing should be removed; this is exactly the case when it is easier to lay the masonry up to the ceiling.

To maintain optimal temperature in all bath rooms, it is best to heat the bath using a heater installed in the steam room. For baths small size consisting of a dressing room, a wash room and a steam room, the only stove, as a rule, is installed in such a way that the heater is in the steam room, the stove firebox is located in the dressing room, and the storage tank for heated water is located in the washing room.

Simplified bath heating systems

The easiest to manufacture, maintain and operate is the system in which the bath is heated from a stove in the steam room. That is, a stove-heater that provides maximum heating ambient air and obtaining heated steam, is located in a steam room, and its combustion part, through which flammable material is loaded, is removed to the dressing room. At the same time, due to the implementation of such a design, the bath is heated from the sauna stove simultaneously in both the steam room and the dressing room. In this case, the washing compartment of the bath is heated by placing a tank with hot water, and, if necessary, an additional heating battery.

The storage tank, located in the washing compartment of the bathhouse, is connected by pipes to a heat exchanger heated by a sauna stove. The water in the storage tank is heated using a circulation pump that pumps water through a heat exchanger located either directly in the fuel combustion area or on the chimney pipe of the stove.

Bath stove with heat exchanger for heating and obtaining the required quantity hot water is the most effective and simple way to maintain optimal temperature in all rooms of the bathhouse. Such combined design It is quite economical in terms of fuel consumption, generates a large amount of heat and has a relatively short time to reach operating mode.

Bath stoves and their features

If necessary, with a heating circuit, it can be quite universal both in terms of operating mode and the fuel used in it. Such a furnace can be used either in a continuous combustion mode, or in a cyclic mode, with periodic loading of combustible material. Natural gas, wood, charcoal or fuel pellets can be used as fuel. In addition, electric stoves of appropriate power can be used to heat the bath and heat the water.

Continuous combustion furnaces are usually made from steel. Such a furnace heats up quickly and cools down quickly when the fuel supply to it is stopped. Sometimes the surface of steel stoves is lined with decorative non-flammable material, which increases its safety and heat capacity.

Stoves used in cyclic mode for heating a room must have a high heat capacity and the ability to retain heat for a long time after the fuel supply has stopped. They are made from refractory bricks, which have a large mass and high heat capacity. Such an oven, after heating, can retain high temperature for quite a long time. The disadvantages of such furnaces include a long time to reach the operating mode, that is, a long time for heating the furnace in a cold state.

To organize the supply of hot water to the bathhouse, as well as for heating the premises, stoves equipped with forced circulation systems of hot water, as well as heat exchangers, are used.

Furnaces with heat exchangers

Furnaces equipped with heat exchange devices allow you to successfully solve all the problems of heating a room, heating water, and creating steam. Heating a bathhouse from the heat exchanger of a bathhouse stove can include not only the main rooms of the bathhouse, but also auxiliary ones, for example, a shower room, a relaxation room, a swimming pool, a billiard room, etc.

When designing a stove equipped with heat exchange devices, even at the stage of building a bathhouse, the following should be taken into account:

• dimensions of the bathhouse and area of ​​heated premises;
• dimensions and weight of the furnace;
• specific gravity of the heating device;
• the number of heat exchange devices included in the furnace kit;
• the total volume and composition of the circulating coolant;
• diameter and length of the chimney.

Sauna stoves with a heat exchanger can be connected using heat-insulated pipes:

1. To a remote tank for heating water used in washing department baths
2. To heating radiators located in the service areas of the bathhouse - recreation room, billiard room, etc.
3. To a hot water supply and water heating system, which includes not only the main and service areas of the bathhouse, but also the living areas of the house.

Stoves for heating baths with wood come with an internal or external heat exchanger. The internal heat exchanger is located in the combustion chamber between the body and the casing. It uses heat obtained directly from the combustion of fuel and heating of the furnace.

An external heat exchanger is installed around the chimney pipe. It uses the heat given off by heated gases when they are removed outside. Due to the increased volume of the external heat exchanger, its operating efficiency increases. Using the heat of the gases escaping through the chimney allows you to save fuel and increase the efficiency of the furnace by reducing the temperature of the exhaust gases.

IN cast iron stove The water in the heat exchanger is heated by exhaust flue gases and thermal radiation. The heat exchanger body is located in the upper part of the firebox in the area of ​​the chimney.

A brick stove for a bath assumes the location of a heat exchanger inside brickwork in close proximity to the firebox. This somewhat increases the thermal inertia of the heat exchanger, and also reduces the likelihood of its overheating or oxidation of its surface under the influence of open fire.

The heat exchanger providing heating of the bath from the stove in the steam room must comply with technical parameters effective power of the water heating system, operating pressure in the system, volume and composition of the circulating coolant.

Features of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger

A sauna stove equipped with a heat exchanger has certain design features.

These include, in particular:

• tube supply system for coolant circulation;
• thickened body walls;
• increased volume of the heater;
• the presence of an air distributor is mandatory;
• firebox door made of heat-resistant glass.

The heat exchanger operates due to the constant circulation of water through all devices that make up the heating system in the bathhouse. To effectively use the heat exchanger, the length of each connecting pipe should be a maximum of 3 m. Especially if there is no external thermal insulation of the pipe.

Subject to compliance, as well as the presence of forced ventilation and thermoregulation systems, a universal stove for baths and home heating can be equipped with a heat exchanger. The stove itself can be located in the bathhouse and connected to the living quarters of the house using a thermally insulated heating pipeline and supplying the home with hot water.

To organize water circulation in the centralized heating system, as well as to supply hot water to the premises of the house and to the washing compartment, an automated bathhouse is used to maintain constant pressure in the line.

The most simple design A universal stove is an electric stove with separate electric heaters for the stove sections with a heat exchanger and the heater.

Such a furnace can operate in several modes, namely:

1. In the mode of heating the residential premises of the house and its hot water supply (DHW) while maintaining the minimum required temperature in the bathhouse premises during the cold season.
2. In heating mode for baths and the entire house with hot water supply during the cold season.
3. Organization of heating of the bathhouse and heater in the summer.

A similar stove for bathing and heating at the same time can be created in the form of a continuous device using natural gas or fuel pellets. Use as fuel charcoal or wood in this case is difficult and has certain technical difficulties. After all, wood or coal stoves do not provide the ability to automatically adjust the temperature. This can lead to sudden temperature changes in the heating line.

If it is possible to connect to a natural gas main or an industrial voltage electric cable, you can make a sauna stove from a heating boiler operating on gas or electricity, respectively. Such a stove can perform the functions of a heating and water heating system. Together with the heating boiler in the bathhouse, you can also install a small steel wood-burning stove in the steam room.

If the system has central heating At home with sufficient power, the auxiliary rooms of the bathhouse can be heated using it. To do this, heat-insulated pipes are laid from the home heating system to the bathhouse, to which heating radiators for the auxiliary rooms of the bathhouse are connected. In this case, the stove-heater can only be used to heat the steam or washing section of the bath, if necessary.

If the distance from the water heating boiler of a residential building to the bathhouse is small, then heat loss with such a heating system can be minimal. In addition, the presence of an independent external heating system will allow you to maintain the optimal temperature in the bath room in winter period. This is required to prevent freezing of water supply and sewerage pipes, as well as the bathhouse itself. The combination of heating systems of a residential building and a bathhouse in this case can be of an auxiliary, backup nature.