Brick cladding of a wooden house: we do it ourselves. How to cover a house with bricks Depth of deepening of supports

Over time, a wooden house not only loses its attractiveness, but also loses ground in terms of thermal insulation. The wood begins to crack, sag, and rot in places, which leads to loss of heat in living spaces. A way out of this situation can be a beautiful brick cladding.

Thus, a wooden house lined with brick not only acquires a renewed appearance, but also becomes much stronger, given that during masonry both parts of the house are tied together. In addition, an additional foundation must be installed under the new brick lining, which enhances bearing capacity the buildings.

Below you will find information on how to veneer a wooden house with brick so that it has a good appearance and appropriate strength.

Brick selection

Market building materials offers modern craftsmen a mass of brick blocks for decorative and basic monolithic masonry. There is plenty to choose from. So, you can cover a wooden house with the following types of building materials:

Ceramic brick. It is made from baked clay and has a medium density. Ceramic blocks are able to absorb moisture by 14%, which makes them less resistant to water than other types of material. However ceramic brick At the same time, it retains heat better and is easier to install.
Sand-lime brick. This type of blocks is less prone to moisture absorption (only 6-8%) and at the same time has a lower cost. Sand-lime brick provides good sound insulation and reliable and attractive appearance Houses.
Clinker brick. The most expensive and at the same time having higher specifications material. Blocks are produced by firing at temperatures higher than ceramic bricks (1200 degrees). The blocks are characterized by increased resistance to moisture, frost and ultraviolet radiation.

Important: if the purpose of the cladding is decorative design at home on a low budget, then sand-lime brick is ideal. If there is a desire to strengthen the strength of the building and at the same time provide high-quality heat and sound insulation, then clinker or at least ceramic bricks will be the best options.

Advantages of brick cladding of a wooden building

Cladding a house with brick blocks has its pros and cons. The main advantages include:

Improving fire safety at home. Brickwork is resistant to fire even when directly exposed to it.
Increasing efficiency when heating a house. Heat loss from a brick-clad building is reduced to almost zero, which means that heating costs for the house will also be reduced.
The wood of a finished house is protected from negative influences atmospheric precipitation, which in turn plays a role in extending the life of the house.

But with all the positive aspects, brick cladding also has several disadvantages, which, with a competent approach to the work, can be successfully eliminated. These are:

Possible accumulation of moisture in the insulating material as a result of the formation of evaporation between the two walls of the house. Subsequently, such moisture will lead to freezing of the walls or their rotting. To avoid this, when installing the cladding, ventilation gaps should be left around the perimeter of the masonry. And to protect walls from rodents and debris ventilation holes covered with bars.
It is also worth remembering that over time the tree changes its configuration (settles, dries out, etc.), which can lead to rupture of the ligaments. A flexible connection of walls in the form of steel wire of the required cross-section will help correct the situation.
To construct a foundation for brickwork it is necessary to use a higher grade of cement to ensure the bearing capacity of the base.

We calculate the material

To properly veneer wooden structure brick blocks, you need to select required quantity material. It is worth remembering that a supply of building materials will allow you to avoid unpleasant surprises at the construction site.

So, the calculation of standard bricks is made according to the principle of block consumption per 1 m2. It is generally accepted that there are about 50-55 blocks in this area. Therefore, it is worth determining the area of each wall of the house, summing them up and, as a result, simply multiplying the resulting number m2 by 55. At the same time, it is advisable to buy a reserve of 10-15% in case of an unexpected battle at the construction site.

Important: when performing calculations, do not forget about deducting window and doorways of the total wall area.

Ready cement mortar for bricklaying, calculate according to the principle of 2 kg of ready-made mixture per 1 m2 of cladding.
The masonry mixture is mixed from sand, lime and cement in a ratio of 9:2:1. All bulk ingredients are combined using a construction mixer and diluted with water to the consistency of soft sour cream.

Important: for laying bricks you can also use ready-made mortar. But its cost is several times higher than its preparation. cement-sand mortar with your own hands.

Don’t forget about the quantity of finished concrete mixture for pouring the foundation. It is calculated by multiplying the perimeter of the base by its width and depth. As a rule, these parameters for the Moscow region are 0.3 meters and 0.5 m.

Brick lining wooden house carried out in compliance construction technology. Its exact observance guarantees receipt excellent result for many years:

So, first of all, before cladding a building made of wood, it is imperative to treat the wood with an antiseptic. Moreover, the tree needs to be processed in stages, once a day for 2-3 days. This coating protects the wood under the cladding from rodents, insects, rot and mold.
Also, do not forget that the existing foundation may not withstand the load of the brickwork. Therefore, it is necessary to install an additional base under the blocks. Along the perimeter of the house with a gap of 5-10 cm from the main base, a trench of the required width and depth is prepared. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with sand, which is then thoroughly compacted. The next layer of the pie is roofing material, which is placed on the walls of the formwork and covers the bottom of the trench. Pour into waterproofed formwork concrete mortar with its mandatory reinforcement. A week after pouring, the formwork is removed, the foundation is covered with film and left for a month until completely dried and settled. In the process of pouring the base, it is worth connecting it with the existing foundation of the house. This is done by installing reinforcement with a cross-section of 12-14 mm into the old base and pouring it into the new one.

Important: work on lining the house should not begin earlier than a month. The foundation must reach its final strength.

The walls of a wooden house must be insulated before facing. This can be done with mineral wool or polystyrene slabs. You can also use expanded clay, which is poured between two walls of the house.

Important: if used sheet material for insulation, it must be remembered that the sheets are attached in two layers so that upper layer material covered all the joints of the bottom. This will protect the house from drafts and cold.

Brick laying is done in a bandage, shifting each brick of the upper row by 8-10 cm relative to the vertical seams of the lower row. In this case, you need to start laying strictly from the corners of the house, setting the horizontal rows using a building level. Control cords are pulled between the laid corner bricks, which will allow more thorough control of the level of the masonry. By the way, it should be controlled not only horizontally, but also vertically, for which a special plumb line is used. The thickness of the seams should not exceed 14 mm.

It is necessary to cover a wooden house with obligatory bandaging. To do this in wooden base Buildings at a distance of every meter are screwed into anchors, which are connected to the brickwork. Vertical anchors are installed every 4-5 rows of masonry.

Important: the dressing must be installed in a wooden wall at a slight angle so that the shrinkage of the wood and brick walls does not lead to destruction. The brick cladding is removed right up to the roof eaves.

Advice: if the master doubts independent execution work, then first you can invite an experienced mason who will start the laying and teach a couple of lessons.

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. But how to use it finishing material- this is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help you save on heating costs, and will give the building a “major” appearance. If the walls are made of foam blocks or other light and warm building blocks, then such finishing will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, mildew and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish will occur.

Which brick to use

Facing bricks are produced according to different technologies, thanks to which he has different characteristics and prices:

Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. One of the disadvantages is high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction and the brick begins to crumble. Even the special finishing one, in which in factories the bed (the part that ends up outside) is specially protected. The solution is to cover the wall after installation. hydrophobic composition. Only those that do not form a vapor-proof film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it can withstand freezing/freezing without deterioration). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained by high production costs.
Hyperpressed or non-firing. This type of facing brick is produced not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows you to obtain a wide color scheme. The front surface is often nonlinear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: uneven surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores and freezes in cold weather. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. The frost resistance of high-quality unfired bricks is stated by manufacturers to be from 75 to 150 cycles.
Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. Denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for use, but when laying it it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it must be laid on a hard, low-plasticity mortar, and it is more difficult to work with. Another disadvantage that limits the wide distribution of a material with excellent characteristics is that it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is not a cheap pleasure, but it is the most attractive in appearance.
Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most “quickly perishable” of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so great. If you consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is questionable. It is advisable to cover the house with sand-lime brick in warm regions. In the northern regions this is completely unprofitable.
Cladding the house from sand-lime brick- the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of finishing

Choosing the type of brick is not everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Full-bodied finishing brick rarely used: costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they can be large and small. Given equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce consumption masonry mortar, and the strength of the masonry will increase.

If you decide to clad the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and can be transported and loaded without fear.

Please note that the brick packaging should not be exposed to water during storage. This is especially true if you are planning to leave it for the winter.

How to cover a wooden house (timber, log, frame) with bricks

The most difficulties arise when finishing a wooden house with bricks: the materials have very different characteristics, and it is not easy to make a good bond out of them. The whole secret here is necessity ventilation gap between the cladding and a layer of insulation, which is usually applied to a wooden wall. A windproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation. Required condition- it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRep, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will there be normal humidity in the room and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With sufficient thickness wooden walls The thermal insulation layer is simply missing, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure air flow, ventilation ducts are made in the first row through which air enters. Exit holes are installed under the roof in the eaves. The area of ventilation holes is 75 cm2 for every 20 m2 of wall. The vents in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

lay a brick with through holes on its side;
partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
make two or three holes and install gratings.

Regarding what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the wood rotting, and indoor humidity will be higher than normal.

Another important point: You can cover a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the frame has taken place. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have taken place in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with brick

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. From positive points can be distinguished:

There are enough negative points:

In general, this is not an ideal solution. If you are still planning your house, think a few times. Maybe it would be better to build them and then cover them with bricks. These materials coordinate much better and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, and it is necessary to give it a more attractive appearance.

Wall cladding technology

First the wood is processed protective impregnation for outdoor work. Then the sheathing is made of planed timber (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Usually for Middle zone Russia needs a thickness of basalt wool of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But exactly everything is calculated depending on the thickness of the wall (made of timber or logs) and the brick chosen for cladding.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the sheathing is padded taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This way the material will be laid with force. It will fit tightly to the sheathing, which will minimize the formation of cold bridges.

Example brick cladding walls of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must be vapor permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then moisture must be removed from the room. Fasten the membrane with staplers to the sheathing. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and install a wall made of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall becomes shaky, especially when large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are planning to cover a house with bricks with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontality and verticality of the masonry. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

Long pins are driven horizontally into the corners of the house under the roof and above the base. They should protrude from the wall at a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed to the lower nail.
A plumb line is used to check and set its verticality and firmly fix it.
Also, a vertical wire is tied at the same distance at the other end of the wall.
A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide during laying: it can be moved upward as the rows are laid. Just every time you need to check the horizontalness using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or strips of tin for bandaging are attached to the frame posts.

To reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall stronger and more reliable. Therefore it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell size of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm are used as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, both with and without reinforcement, should be the same.

The brick cladding of a house was filmed “live”, the laying technique was “under the rod”. The seams turn out beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane as the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the “life” of brick wall cladding will increase significantly. The laying process itself is demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid carefully, and any drops that fall on the surface are immediately wiped away.

Facing a house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

The vapor permeability of cellular concrete is also higher than that of brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is material that removes vapors better. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks is necessary.

If you line a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, aerated silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensation will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials. At low temperatures frozen moisture will destroy the shell of the bubbles, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly worsening its characteristics.

Options for cladding an aerated concrete house with bricks and their characteristics

Additional insulation materials are used very rarely; if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for cladding a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by windproofing.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. Number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connections, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are driven not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45°. You can use galvanized strips with perforations, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the second end is inserted into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: connections should not be embedded in the masonry joints of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best cladding for walls made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag-pouring house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks spread along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls is high.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (cinder block) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The duration of the delay depends on the condition of the material and on measures taken. On average he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: too high price errors.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, and carry out waterproofing work. One of which is the external protection of walls from precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (but does not create a vapor-proof film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as “Penetron” and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About choosing suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly depending on the region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region online. During the call, you need to get technical data and find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of the brick and compare the prices.

What can I advise: do not buy materials that are too cheap. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely these are the remnants of last year’s not-so-successful batch. For the rest, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles/piece;
ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles/piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles/piece);
hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles/piece;
clinker - 27-40 rubles/piece.

After selecting several possible suppliers, look at their products in person. Smooth edges, uniform coloring, absence of cracks and any defects - this is what you should see.

About batch sizes. It is advisable to purchase the entire volume of material for cladding at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. Some suppliers offer large quantities to be delivered by dump trucks directly from the factory. This is cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

Another advantage of purchasing in bulk is that there will most likely be only one batch, which guarantees uniform coloring. In any case, facing a house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

Fence with brick pillars or foundation - this is the basis of high-quality, reliable luxury fencing. And you can easily install brick pillars with your own hands.

Fully brick fence it looks quite bulky, but once it is combined with other materials, the overall impression changes. Such supports serve spectacular decoration territory, withstand mechanical loads and atmospheric influences. A fence with brick pillars will last for decades, maintaining its attractiveness.

What kind of fences are combined with brick pillars?

With corrugated sheeting - economical and efficient.
A wooden fence is affordable and environmentally friendly.
With forging - expensive, rich, impressive.

Brick is the most popular and universal material, which never goes out of style.

Most decorative functions performs facing bricks. He has smooth surface, can be red, silicate, crushed, antique. There are many options. To save money, you can use regular brick inside and cover the façade with cladding.

Masonry tools:

Shovel;
Trowel and trowel;
Pick;
Grinder, building level, plumb line;
Cord and other auxiliary tools.

For such a massive structure, the following are suitable: strip, strip-column, monolithic foundation. The heavier the structure, the deeper the foundation is laid. Standard option– trench, 1 meter deep. For greater durability and protection against groundwater, the lower part of the foundation is made slightly wider than the upper.

A cushion of crushed stone and sand is laid at the bottom of the trench, support metal pipes, at a distance of 2.5 to 9 meters. The best option- 3 meters. The structure is poured with concrete.

If the work is performed by one person, then it is enough to prepare from 20 to 50 liters of solution. If several people are involved in the work, then it makes sense to use a concrete mixer. Concrete for fence posts is prepared from sand, cement and water (ratio: 1 cement to 4 sand). Since the mixture works by compression and displacement, it should not be made too thick.

There are two methods:

Uniform dressing. IN in this case The top brick is placed on top of the two bottom ones, so that the hole is in the middle. The result is a beautiful and smooth design;
Wild dressing. This type of masonry moves much faster and does not look as impressive.

The metal base is treated with an anti-corrosion compound or coated with enamel. The structure is laid around using the 1.5 brick method. Typically, the height of fence posts does not exceed 2.5 - 3 meters.
You can check how evenly the bricks are laid with a plumb line or a building level.
Laying is carried out around the base using the prepared mortar. As work progresses, we fill the gap between the brick and the pipe with stone or broken brick. You can simply fill it with concrete. This will give the structure solid strength.
After each row, be sure to check the level with a plumb line.
For the gate posts, special plates are built in to serve as fastenings for them.
Using a trowel, remove excess mortar so that it does not have time to harden.

To make the pillars look neat and aesthetically pleasing, you need to joint them. First, remove the remaining mortar on the pillars using a broom and water. The composition is prepared from lime, cement and sand, ratio 1:1:10. Jointing is applied to the pillars moistened with water, processing first the vertical, then horizontal seams. Before installing the fence, the posts must stand for three weeks.

And don't forget to cover the fence posts with a cap. It can be made from different material, and is also attached to the solution. This way the pillars look more harmonious and have a finished look.

Application support pillars made of wood, metal and concrete - a widespread practice in suburban construction. They are part entrance group, can support a roof over a terrace, a gallery around the house, or be the supports of a gazebo. Usually they try to decorate them in accordance with the general architectural design.

When finishing supports, in most cases they are based on the building or finishing material used in the construction of the house.

The issue with brick buildings: concrete pillars can then be covered facing bricks or artificial stone of a similar format; sometimes they pick up ceramic tiles or use decorative plasters, weather-resistant (for outdoor use).

In some cases, not finishing is used, but building brick, which allows you to simultaneously solve both an aesthetic and functional problem - to strengthen the support post. This is especially important for large canopies, which bear a significant load (and in winter you also need to add the weight of snow).

If artificial stone is used in the decoration of the façade of a building or its base, then, as a rule, the owners are inclined to decorate the supporting pillars with this particular material. Laying technology and a wide range of sizes of elements make it possible to decorate even such a pretty room without any problems. complex shape, like a round support.

The support pillars are made entirely of brick or finished with facing bricks

The cladding is a bit more of a hassle. natural stone- in particular, sawing to ensure accurate dimensions, matching the color of adjacent fragments, but this task is quite within the capabilities of professionals.

Most architects prefer not to disguise metal supports, believing that metal itself looks advantageous, unless the building is decided on a purely classic style. All that supporters of authenticity allow themselves are powder coatings or special primers, enamels and blacksmith paints for metal.

Ready-made option - “assembled column” from artificial stone. It can be from 3 to 7 m in height and with a lower diameter from 300 to 740 mm.

High-quality processing with them significantly saves money and time, protecting the material from corrosion for a long time. Metal poles painted in the most different colors- black, dark brown, gray, green, white. Sometimes shades of gold, silver, bronze, brass are appropriate; surfaces are made shiny or matte: options with imitation patina are interesting.

Support pillars are lined with artificial stone

When choosing a material for decorating supports, what matters is whether the canopy protects them from rain and snow. If yes, then one of the most interesting options- finishing with thick hemp rope (diameter is usually about 3-5 cm, it all depends on the size support post- its own height and diameter).

Ropes are a type of twisted and braided products with a diameter of 6-112 mm with an increased breaking load and increased wear resistance.

The rope is secured at one of the points (most often at the bottom) and then laid around the support in tight rings. In an open area, in conditions of constant precipitation, the rope quickly deteriorates; under a canopy it will serve for a long time, and if necessary, it is easy to replace.