Mini potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder. How to make an efficient stove from an old gas cylinder. Self-production of a balloon furnace

Whether in a private country house or in your own garage or workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary stove-stove. Today there are many on sale different models these heating devices, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material And necessary tools, stoves are often made independently.

Which model of wood stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these homemade devices can have a wide variety of appearances and can be made from both new material and improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, medium-diameter pipes, metal sheets and even rims from large automobile wheels to make potbelly stoves.

Tools for making a potbelly stove

To work with metal you will need special tools, some of them are available in almost every private home, while others will have to be purchased or rented.

Angle grinding machine - “grinder” and consumables as cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, and also consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - folding meter, long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with metal drills of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heating device and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, the best option is one made from metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe.

Any of them will do existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring warmth into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make your choice, it is worth considering different variants and get acquainted with the process of their production.

Gas cylinder stove

Installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with a vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of the furnace is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, it can even be installed in a residential area.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of the oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - the jumper between the firebox and the ash pan will be made from it, as well as hob.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a ready-made cast iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a piece of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel angle for making a grate and legs. made of cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder in which holes are drilled can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the space allocated for the stove.

Preparing the gas cylinder

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in use. In this case, a certain concentration of gas may always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. Measures for appropriate preparation of the container cannot be neglected, since do work will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, unscrew the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, and clear the hole in which it is installed. The container is left outside or in a utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It should be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to drain it away from your home.
A washed cylinder can be used for work, since the last remaining gas should be removed from it along with the water.

Making a vertical stove from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - the location of the firebox and ash pan is indicated on it. For this procedure you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her a fairly rigid but elastic tape can be measured and drawn location door

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts using a grinder. The cut out fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox doors and ash pan

These elements are boiled, adding sides, hinges and a handle-latch, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the internal diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the fittings. Thus, a grate for the firebox is made.
Then, the level of installation of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate thus becomes a separator between the ash pit chamber and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation location so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the hinges, a loop-hook for the bolt, open at the top, is fixed. It should keep the door securely closed while the stove is heating.
The door on the ash pan is secured in the same way.
It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld a round metal panel on top, which will act as a hob.
The smoke pipe can be discharged either through the top of the cylinder or through the back or side wall ovens. If you choose the second option, the upper hob will be much larger, since it will be freed from the chimney pipe.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take much less space than the horizontal option, but you also need to remember that any stove should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Efficient potbelly stove made from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, can heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to install a water heating tank in the vertical part of the furnace if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the cylinder, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of approximately 30 - 35 mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder is obtained.

In the bottom part of the future firebox, holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this “grid” - this will ash pan. Then you need to install a tightly closing door on it to prevent coals and ash from falling out. As an air regulator it is used will not be available in this model.
Legs made from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

On top of the horizontally located cylinder, on the side opposite the firebox door, a round hole is cut out onto which the vertical part of the stove will be installed.

A door is installed, which would best be made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut in the center into which a pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. Door hinges It is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will reliably close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to the horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is installed in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. smoke entering this section does not immediately go down the chimney, but lingers in the chamber.

To do this, they are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm, metal plates with holes. The holes should be cut close to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper should be located on the opposite side from from version on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers, located equidistant from each other.
The vertical unit with the partitions already mounted is installed and welded on top to the horizontally mounted housing. A connection pipe is welded onto the top cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from one cylinder, and the operating technology is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering the difference between some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting the chimney pipe is welded into the rear upper part of the cylinder.

A rectangular hole is cut out for the combustion door - it can be adjusted in size to the finished cast iron door. If it is purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blower holes brick kilns- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door and from a balloon cut out rectangular part. The size of the sides will fit well into the resulting hole, but in the middle there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar, 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
Instead of wire, you can use two steel strips, welded on both sides of the cylinder along its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a stove from a cylinder. That is why it is able to heat a room with larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used for heating not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface location the vent and firebox doors, as well as the location of the cut. It should extend below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is initially worked on separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
Pipe branch chimney it is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and laid, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the side, will help to more long term keep the hob hot.
Next, a round metal part with holes cut in it is also welded to the lower side of the upper part - the grate. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can use the previously made markings to cut a hole for the firebox door.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are attached to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the latch are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the latch should fit freely into the holder arranged with a hook.
An opening is cut in the lower part of the barrel for the ash pit. The door is prepared and hung - the same as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After this, both parts are connected into a single structure by a weld.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Manufacturing process horizontal version potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections between the door and the hinges and the hinges and the body are made using rivets.

The standard pressure release hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan is provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to place the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or corners, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without play.

The next stage is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, based on the data obtained, it is cut out. the right size panel in which holes are drilled for air supply. The finished grate is placed on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that in the very high point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel was about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

For the chimney pipe, a special connecting unit is made in the rear upper part. After marking under required diameter Using a grinder, diametrical slits are cut at an angle of 15º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting “teeth” are bent upward - the chimney pipe, which is then inserted, will be attached to them using rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

Potbelly stove made from wheel rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected to match the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the cut may vary depending on the preference of the master and the stability of the structure, but is usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the design and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

The individual elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a piece of pipe, a metal sheet and a pipe for the chimney.
All three parts are welded together into one vertical design. To make it easier to adjust the diameter of the pipe to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outermost rib from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Next, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the ash pan, otherwise the fire in the stove simply won’t burn. To do this, a window measuring 100-120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded there.
It is recommended to make a hob for the upper disk from a steel sheet 4 mm thick — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the stove in order to create a full-fledged ash pit and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is more like a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and provided the source materials are free, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made from wheel rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade potbelly stoves is compact. It looks neat and can be installed in any room. This potbelly stove is a good size for small country houses, since it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the “Gnome” potbelly stove.

A similar model of potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most ordinary body with a division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will retain heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, chimney pipe, corner 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. You can make a lid for the burner yourself or buy it ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal details are drawn on sheets potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for securing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out in the front panel. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and the latches and hinges are immediately attached to them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only on its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After this, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. Together, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for the smoke when the stove burns. Thanks to this, each corner of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or angle are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose the option of a frame from a corner, which includes legs and a base for attaching the bottom and lower ribs of the side panels to it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld corners on them along the entire length of the panel; they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a ready-made cast iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install from the outside metal corner 30 × 30 mm. This will make it a little heavier. general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
The top cover with the chimney pipe and the hob is welded.
To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all welding seams and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and rear surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, significantly accelerating the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks so that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: master class on making a potbelly stove from steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A one made independently will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety rules are followed during its installation.

The surface on which the stove is installed must be hard and fire-resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. Can also be used asbestos sheet, which The top is covered with a metal sheet.
Heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls around the stove. Wall cladding is also suitable ceramic tiles or brick.
It is prohibited to place flammable materials and compounds near the stove or near the firebox.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic.
It is very important for safety to arrange a reliable ventilation system, so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the stove to work for a long time and efficiently, you need to choose only high-quality material for its manufacture.
Before installing the stove on its permanent place be sure to carry out street tests, paying attention Special attention on the quality of welds and the accuracy of fit of all parts.

The cold season has arrived, which means that we all are in great need of warmth. In fact, man survived on earth thanks to the fact that he learned to control fire, because flame became a source of heat, as well as a method of cooking. But now we’re not talking about evolution...

We will talk about a very simple potbelly stove, which is made from a gas cylinder. The purpose of this potbelly stove is to heat when burning, since there is nothing to accumulate heat here. The author decided to make such a potbelly stove for himself on the street, so that he could relax in nature on cool evenings with a cup of beer or wine. Of course, our person can easily make such a stove and use it to heat a garage or other technical room. Everything is done simply and practically.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- old gas cylinder;
- door hinge;
- a piece of pipe for the chimney;
- bolts with nuts;
- a bolt with a nut or something else for making a door handle;
- some scrap metal to make a stove support (or another gas cylinder).

List of tools:
- with cutting and grinding discs;
- ;
- ;
- fireproof paint;
- spanners ki, pliers and other small items;
- tape measure, marker.

The process of making a potbelly stove:

Step one. Preparing the balloon
This is a very important step, your life and those around you may depend on it! Even seemingly empty cylinders probably contain gas residues, which explode when the cylinder is cut. In this regard, all cylinders must be cleaned before work. The easiest way is to fill the container with water, preferably warm, and then pour it out. We fill the balloon to the neck and repeat the procedure several times. To do this, unscrew the cylinder tap, and then turn the cylinder over to drain the remaining gas.

The most proven option for ridding the cylinder of all remaining gas is to warm it up. We wash the cylinder, and then build a fire around it and retreat to a safe distance. After warming up, the cylinder will become completely safe for work.

Step two. Cutting the balloon
The author built this potbelly stove from two small gas cylinders. Half of one cylinder is used as a support for the entire oven. Well, the second cylinder is the body of the furnace itself. But you can use one cylinder, the main thing is to come up with a support for it. It can be easily made from a corner or pipes.

The author cuts the balloon for support in half into two parts. In this case, it is oriented towards the weld seam, which runs through the middle of the cylinder.

Step three. Paint problem
The paint from the cylinder must be removed, since it is not heat-resistant and will burn and smoke after lighting the stove. Removing it mechanically is quite problematic; the author found a way out by throwing the workpieces into the fire. As a result, the paint was scorched, and the residue was easily removed with a wire brush.

Step four. Welding of components
Now the whole cylinder needs to be welded to the half that we cut off earlier. To do this, the author joins the cylinders at the location where the taps are installed and secures them by welding. After making sure that everything is connected smoothly, the author finally welds these parts.

Step five. We make a hole for the chimney and cut out the door
You will need to cut a hole in the top of the stove for the pipe. It is not at all necessary to make it perfectly round, as it is quite difficult task, if you use a grinder. In principle, there is nothing stopping you from making it square, just smaller in size than your pipe. In any case, the author then butt welds the pipe.

You will also need to cut out the door. First, mark its location with a marker, and then make one vertical slot on the side where the hinge will be attached. Do not cut out the door completely yet, take a drill and drill holes for the bolts that you will use to fasten the hinge. Now this is much easier to do, since you don’t need to measure, hold, etc.
Well, only after that finally cut out the door.

Step six. Installing a chimney
You can now weld the chimney. Use the length and diameter of the pipe at your discretion; the longer and thicker it is, the stronger the thrust will be. But with strong draft, fuel burns quickly, so find best option. First grab the pipe, make sure it is installed vertically, and then weld it well so that there are no large gaps.

Step seven. Fastening the door
The author hangs the door on hinges. We have already drilled holes for this task earlier. Now we take small bolts with nuts and wrenches. We easily and simply screw the door into place. The author decided to attach the hinges from the inside, but this is a matter of aesthetics.

Step eight. Handle installation

The handle here is pretty important element, since you will be opening and closing the door quite often. The handle should be made so that it does not get very hot, since metal surface The oven will get very hot. It is better to make the handle as long as possible, use some insulating materials and so on.
Drill a hole in the door and screw on the handle.

Step nine. Preparing the surface for painting

In order for the paint to adhere well to the metal, it must be thoroughly cleaned. To do this, you can use a grinder with various attachments. A wire brush attachment or a sanding attachment will work. All metal should shine. After mechanical treatment, it would be good to wipe the surface with a rag soaked in acetone, this will finally remove all fat deposits and so on.

Step ten. Air supply

Any furnace needs oxygen, since combustion is impossible without it. To allow air to enter the oven, the author drills a series of holes in the lower part. Their diameter and number are selected experimentally. Ideally, for long-term combustion, you would need to make a ash pan with an adjustable window, that is, a door, but all this complicates the design.

In principle, the intensity of combustion can be limited by installing a valve on the pipe.

Step 11. Painting the stove
The stove needs to be painted, since ordinary steel oxidizes strongly when heated. This will lead to ugly appearance, and the metal is destroyed quite actively. First of all, it is advisable to cover the stove with primer so that the paint will adhere well, but this is not necessary. You will definitely need heat-resistant paint, since any paint will instantly burn, since the oven heats up to several hundred degrees (sometimes red-hot). The author applies the paint with a brush.

After the first application, this paint may smell a little at first, but this is normal.

It is clear that a gas cylinder will be used for the body. But they are different sizes. The smallest 5-liter ones should not be used for making stoves: the volumes are too small and they won’t be able to heat anything. There are also 12 and 27 liter cylinders. They will make a low-power unit for absolutely small room: You can’t get more than 3 and 7 Kilowatts of heat from them. In principle, this can be a hiking option, but the weight will be considerable.

The best option for a stationary stove in a garage or country house is a 50-liter gas cylinder. Height 850 mm, diameter - 300 mm. The volume and wall thickness are large enough for any fuel to burn. At the same time, it is not very heavy, you can work with it alone. A potbelly stove made from a 50 liter propane cylinder is the best option.

Industrial 40-liter gas tanks have approximately the same volume, the diameter is smaller - 250 mm, the height is larger, and the walls are thicker. It will be more difficult to make a stove from a freon cylinder, with the same power that can be obtained from it: the mass is large, and it is long. By shortening the height to about 700 mm, you can make a small, thick-walled potbelly stove, which will take a little longer to warm up, but will also “keep” the heat a little better.

How to safely disassemble a gas cylinder: watch safety precautions in this video.

Made from a gas (mostly propane) cylinder, the potbelly stove has two fundamentally different types: vertical and horizontal. Although the manufacturing process does not limit the designer’s imagination. Options of a combined type are not excluded.

Horizontal version Vertical version Combined version

This potbelly stove uses solid fuels: firewood, coal, fuel briquettes.

The advantages of such a stove include the following:

good thermal conductivity due to the thickness of the metal wall of the cylinder (4 mm);
optimal size/efficiency ratio;
when used vertically, it takes up very little space in the room;
ease of manufacture and availability of necessary materials;
the possibility of equipping such a stove with a sheet of metal for heating and cooking food.

Disadvantages of such a potbelly stove:

use only solid fuel;
with a vertical design, it is necessary to adjust the firewood to the optimal size;

As you can see, such a stove definitely has more advantages.

After preparing the tools and materials, you can begin making the furnace.

Manufacturing a vertical potbelly stove includes the following steps:

On the prepared cylinder, future openings of the firebox chambers and ash pan are marked. The distance between these cutouts should be 80–100 mm;
Marking the cylinder

Using a grinder, holes are cut according to the markings. The cut segments do not need to be thrown away; doors will be made from them.

Make cuts, but do not throw away the remaining parts after work.

The cut segments are attached to the cylinder on hinges using welding. A grate made from a reinforcement rod is welded inside the cylinder.

Potbelly stove door mounting option

The final stage. A chimney pipe is welded into the upper part of the cylinder. The chimney pipe is connected to this pipe at the location where the stove is installed.

Carry out welding work carefully or entrust it to a professional

Potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder, assembled.

The finished product must be checked for correct functioning!

The process of making a potbelly stove from the container described above begins with the preliminary preparation of the corresponding cylinder:

First you need to get rid of the remaining gas. Just open the valve completely.
After the hissing has finished (to be completely sure), the gas cylinder can be slightly heated on a fire or stove.
To eliminate a specific “fragrant” additive to propane - mercaptan fragrance (odorant), it is necessary to completely (up to the shoulders) fill the container with bleach, which contains acids. It could even be "Persol".
Then wait a little and pour it out.
After this, soak the insides with a solution of table soda (10%).

How to make a potbelly stove: device and diagrams

Such a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder using wood or mining can be made in a short time. After all, for construction you can use almost any of the gas cylinders you or your neighbors have. A potbelly stove for a garage or apartment can be made from almost any cylindrical metal object. For example, from a can, pan, barrel, bucket, pipe or wartime shell.

But the most best thing for its manufacture - an ordinary gas cylinder. This is the most common and easily accessible container today, made of thick, high-quality metal. Thickness is important, because a thin wall will quickly burn out and the oven will have to be thrown out.

Optimization of heating costs country house is a very pressing task for its owner: what to use as fuel, which thermal unit is the best. Homemade stoves made from gas cylinders are very popular, allowing the use of very cheap, sometimes just waste, fuel. In this case, heating costs are minimal.

Making a heating unit with your own hands from a cylinder

A thrifty owner carefully insulates his home, trying to reduce heating costs. In addition, there are a number of objects that need to be heated periodically: workshops, garages, outbuildings. It is necessary to regularly heat greenhouses or winter gardens.

Therefore, home craftsmen are constantly developing and implementing additional thermal units of the most various designs. The most popular are products made from gas cylinders. The reason for this is the convenient shape and almost ideal proportions and characteristics of the material.

The efficiency of cylinder stoves reaches 85–90%, which is a very high figure in comparison with homemade stoves other forms. The rounded shape is ideal for intensive pyrolysis of fuel and allows you to arrange openings for smoke exit and oxygen supply to the combustion zone at the lowest cost.

A simple and effective gas cylinder stove will last a long time

What is a cylinder stove?

A classic representative of heating units from an old cylinder is the well-known “potbelly stove”. It received this name for its extraordinary gluttony, consuming large amounts of fuel. But its main advantage is fast ignition and heating. This is especially important in extreme situations when for some reason the main heating system stops working.

In the design of such a furnace, the cylinders can be located in both vertical and horizontal positions. Heat transfer occurs through the surface of the furnace and can be significantly increased by welding metal ribs onto the surface. In addition, heat can be recovered flue gases, passing them through a pipe embedded in a container of water. Water heated in this way is used in the heating circuit or used in the household through a boiler indirect heating.

Pyrolysis furnaces occupy a special place in cylinder heating devices. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of fuel that occurs with minimal access to oxygen. At temperatures above 300 degrees, the fuel in the furnace does not simply burn through the oxidation process, but decomposes into gas fractions, which give higher temperatures when ignited.

Photo gallery: types of stoves with a cylinder body

What cylinders can be used

Not every gas cylinder is suitable for making a furnace body. For example, it is not recommended to use cylinders made of composite materials. Despite its strength, the composite does not tolerate high temperatures.

A 5-liter container cannot serve as a furnace body due to its small size, but it is successfully used to make containers for liquid fuel.

You can use cylinders with a volume of 12 and 27 liters. They make excellent thermal units with a capacity of 2–3 kilowatts and 5–7 kilowatts, respectively.

Most often, stove bodies are made from cylinders with a capacity of 50 liters. Its dimensions - diameter 30 centimeters and height 85 - are optimal for installing a heating unit. A stove of this volume is capable of efficiently heating a small country house.

A 50-liter propane cylinder is best suited for the body of a homemade stove

Oxygen cylinders for furnaces are rarely used. The size ratio is not entirely convenient for the installation of a firebox, and the significant height makes such a unit unstable.

Types of long-burning stoves from a gas cylinder

There are many options for making stoves from cylinders. Each home master makes his own changes to them, according to his capabilities and understanding of the process. At the same time, long-burning pyrolysis furnaces are the most popular. In such designs, the combustion time of the combustion material varies from 12 hours to a day or more, which can significantly reduce fuel consumption.

Furnaces with conical fuel stacking

A popular type of pyrolysis furnace is a design with conical fuel stacking. In such a furnace, a pin is installed along the axis of the firebox from the grate. When loading, a wooden or tin cone is placed on it with the base up. The firebox is filled from above with sawdust, shavings or wood chips. In this case, the combustion material must be compacted well so that the filling is as dense as possible.

When fuel is loaded, the cone must be pulled out and the lid closed. Fuel is ignited through the ash pan a small amount wood chips or a tablet of dry fuel. As soon as the fuel burns well, the ash door must be closed, limiting the flow of air into the firebox. Then the fuel simply smolders, but this is enough to reach the pyrolysis temperature. Smoke is discharged through a pipe in the upper part of the housing. With this design, “samovar” water heating tanks are also used for a radiator heating system or heating water in an indirect heating boiler. It is convenient to use a gas or oxygen cylinder as a heating container, passing the chimney pipe along the axis of the vessel. A fitting for hot water is welded in the upper part, and for return flow in the lower part. Circulation occurs naturally without the use of a pump, which makes the heating system energy independent.

The burning time of one bookmark is 12–16 hours.

Sawdust should be compacted as tightly as possible

Liquid fuel pyrolysis furnaces

These thermal units use fuels such as diesel, diesel fuel or waste oil. The use of other energy sources is considered exotic due to their high cost.

Consider the option of using waste oil as fuel. For the manufacture of the simplest oven necessary:

Install a pipe with a diameter of about 100 millimeters in the upper part of the cylinder.
About 30 holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters need to be drilled in the walls of the pipe.
Place a cup-shaped container with a diameter of 120–140 millimeters with sides 25–30 millimeters high at the bottom of the cylinder.
A tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters with oil and a fuel supply regulator is connected to the container through the wall of the cylinder.
Combustion products are removed through a side pipe in the upper part of the housing.

Ignition of a cold furnace is carried out in the following order:

Open the tap on the fuel tank and pour used oil into the bowl approximately to the middle of the walls.
You need to pour up to 50 grams of gasoline on top of the oil. Having a lower density, it will remain on the surface.
Light the gasoline. As the temperature rises, the oil boils and begins to release vapors, which also ignite. The air flow draws the flame into the perforated pipe.
With a further increase in temperature, fuel pyrolysis occurs and the combustion intensity increases. Flue gases are removed through the upper chamber through the side pipe. The temperature in the combustion chamber is such that the pipe heats up red-hot, and from it the furnace body quickly heats up.
Under these circumstances, it is advisable to partially cool the stove gases in the chimney using a samovar-type water heating container.

In front of everyone positive qualities Such a thermal unit, including simplicity of design and low cost of fuel, has a significant drawback. In the room where such a stove operates, there is a constant smell of burning petroleum products. Therefore, the structure must be moved outside the residential or industrial premises.

An old cylinder and used oil will effectively heat the house

Video: stove using waste oil from a gas cylinder

Long-burning solid fuel stoves

The following types of fuel are used in solid fuel appliances to produce heat:

firewood;
wood processing waste in the form of sawdust, shavings, scraps, chips;
peat;
coal.

There are known cases of using used tires for heating after they have been shredded.

One of the most popular designs of this type is rightfully considered a homemade stove with the funny name “bubafonya”. It can be made with minimal costs labor and materials. The basis for production is a body made of a gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters.

The fuel for such a unit can be technological chips, crushed remains of branches and twigs, sawdust and shavings. The only requirement for it is that the humidity should not exceed 12%, which corresponds to the standards for fuel wood stoves. The burning time of one bookmark is from 14 to 24 hours, depending on the density of its placement. The fuel is ignited after installing the weight and lid. The ribs on the load form channels for air, allowing the fuel to burn and decompose into pyrolysis gases. Gases enter the upper chamber, where they burn at high temperature.

As the fuel burns, the piston moves down

Slow burning pyrolysis furnace “Bubafonya”

It is impossible to describe or simply list all the designs of stoves that can be made from cylinders, but it is advisable to consider in detail the “bubafonya” design. This model can be made at home with your own hands.

Safety

Before describing the design of the furnace and its manufacturing technology, let us pay attention to safety issues. We will talk about preparing the cylinder itself for processing. Despite its dense structure, the inner surface of the metal is riddled with a network of microscopic cracks. During long-term operation of the container for its intended purpose, a considerable amount of gas condensate and its sediment accumulates inside these defects. Such a substance may be explosive and is in no way beneficial to health. Before you start working with the cylinder, you need to fill it with water and let it sit for 2-3 days. It is better to perform the operation away from home. When the liquid is drained, the reasons for this recommendation will become clear - it has an extremely unpleasant and strong odor.

Video: how to safely disassemble a gas cylinder

Tools and materials for making the Bubafonya stove

To make such a heating unit with your own hands, you will need:

Table: required materials and tools

Name	Purpose	Notes
Cylinder for furnace body	Manufacturing of the main product	boo
Steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm	Making handles for the oven lid and body	From waste
Angles 45x45, any profile, pipe cuttings	For support legs	From waste
Bulgarian	Cutting blank parts, cutting the cylinder during the manufacture of the body
Steel sheet 6–10 millimeters thick	Making a pancake
Steel strip 40x4 millimeters	Manufacturing of support ribs
Cement, sand, gravel and fireclay bricks	Making the furnace support base
Reinforcing bars	Foundation reinforcement
Trowel, shovel, container for mixing the solution	Pouring the foundation
Welding machine for working with ferrous metals and electrodes for it	Making welded joints when assembling the furnace	Possible to rent
Electric drill no less than 0.7 kW, set of metal drills	Drilling holes
Measuring tool	Taking measurements and marking
Locksmith's corner	Positioning of parts during assembly, quality control
Kerner	Hole marking
Files flat and semicircular	Removing sharp edges and burrs, adjusting dimensions
Marker black	Marking production
Individual protection means	Goggles, welder's mask, face shield, mittens, gloves, special shoes, rags.

In addition to the above, you will need some tools from a standard locksmith kit: a hammer, pliers, etc.

The procedure for making a “bubafonya” stove

The advantage of this model is that the cylinder body is subject to the least intervention. The manufacturing procedure for the Bubafonya stove is as follows:

Separate the head dome part of the cylinder using a grinder.
Make a hole in it along the axis with a diameter of about 80 millimeters. Since the dome part will subsequently be used as a cover, two rod handles need to be welded to it. The cap will have to be removed each time fuel is loaded.
The cut off top of the cylinder is a part for making the lid
Make a hole of approximately the same diameter in the bottom of the cylinder. Its purpose is periodic cleaning of combustion residues. This hole must be closed with a reliable flap.
Approximately 5 centimeters from the top edge of the body you need to make a hole for the chimney pipe. Typically this is a pipe with a diameter of up to 15 centimeters with a wall of at least 4 millimeters.
At a distance of approximately 10–12 centimeters from the bottom of the cylinder, drill three holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. They are located around the circle at an angle of 120 degrees relative to each other. Rods with a diameter of 9.0–9.5 millimeters are inserted into the holes so that they protrude inward by 20–25 millimeters. From the outside, the rods must be welded to the body.
Cut a circle from a sheet four millimeters thick with a diameter two millimeters smaller than the internal size of the case. Drill 20–25 holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters in it. This part will play the role of a grate.
Install the part onto the protrusions of the pins.
Next, you need to make a piston, which will also serve as a load. The piston consists of several simple details. The first is a pipe with a diameter of about 80 millimeters with a wall of up to four millimeters. It is allowed to use electric-welded straight-seam pipes. The second part is a pancake, in the center of which you need to cut a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe. The pipe is welded to the pancake at a right angle coaxially.
The ribs on the pancake provide air for fuel pyrolysis
Ribs from a strip about 40 millimeters wide or a corner of the appropriate size are welded to the lower surface of the ring. They are located from the center to the edge of the pancake. Number of ribs - 4–6 pieces.
A damper must be installed at the upper end of the pipe in order to be able to completely block the hole in the pipe.
Flue gas outlet and damper for shutting off the air supply

Procedure for placing fuel and igniting the stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Fuel preparation consists of grinding large fragments into industrial chips (5x20 mm) and mixing them with sawdust and shavings.
Pour fuel into the firebox; in this case, it is necessary to compact it, achieving the greatest density of the mass.
Lightly moisten the surface of the fuel filler with lighter fluid.
Install the piston into the furnace body with the pancake down, and fully open the damper on the pipe.
Close the lid.
To ignite the fuel, take a small rag soaked in ignition fluid and lower it into the pipe. If you just throw a match there, it will go out along the way.

Photo gallery: how to light a “bubafonya” stove

When the fuel ignites, the furnace heats up. Combustion air will flow through the pipe from top to bottom. When the temperature reaches 300 degrees, the process of fuel decomposition begins. Pyrolysis gases penetrate into the upper compartment and ignite there. From this point on, you can completely close the valve on the pipe.

The combustion process occurs as follows:

After closing the damper, air enters the firebox through the slot gap between the pipe and the edges of the hole in the lid. The combustion of pyrolysis gases creates a sufficient temperature for the decomposition of subsequent layers of fuel.
The ribs on the bottom of the pancake do not allow it to sink onto the fuel layer and stop the combustion. Through the cavities between them, gases enter the upper chamber.
Thus, layer-by-layer consumption of combustible material occurs with the formation of a large amount of heat.

The burning of one bookmark continues for up to a day or more.

Such stoves cope no less successfully with fuels such as peat or pellets.

Heat recovery occurs by heating the furnace body. However, it cannot be complete. It is advisable to use a samovar method of extracting energy for heating through a radiator heating system.

Video: review of the Bubafonya stove: design, kindling, advantages and disadvantages

Calculation of the main parameters of the Bubafonya stove

The efficient operation of a furnace of this design directly depends on the combination of many indicators and their optimal interaction.

Furnace wall thickness

Based on experience in operating long-burning furnaces optimal thickness the walls are recognized to be 4–5 millimeters. This is exactly the parameter that a fifty-liter cylinder has. If the wall is thinner, heat transfer is disrupted and the body burns out quite quickly.

Calculation of pancake parameters

The gap between the pancake and the inner wall of the cylinder is determined by the relation s = 0.5D. That is, with a diameter of 300 mm, this value will be 300 x 0.05 = 15 millimeters. It should be noted that compliance with this parameter is very important. With a larger gap, the fuel near the walls will burn more slowly, as a result of which the pancake may fall into the filling and combustion will stop.

As established in practice, the height of the pressure ribs is 40 millimeters.

Pancake thickness

This parameter is inversely proportional to the diameter of the housing. That is, the larger the diameter, the thinner the part should be. There are tables of this dependence on the Internet; for our case, this parameter is 6–10 millimeters. Exact data and calculation methods are not provided, but it is quite enough to follow the published recommendations.

Chimney cross-section size

The minimum permissible cross-section of the chimney is determined by the amount of energy released per hour of operation of the stove, which is determined by the ratio S = 1.75E (kW/hour). Here E = mq, where m is the mass of fuel in the load, q is the specific energy of the fuel burning over an hour, table value. The necessary information is given in the table.

Table: data for calculating the cross-section of the chimney

Having produced necessary calculations, we get the minimum required chimney diameter for the Bubafonya stove of 150 millimeters.

Air intake pipe size

Preparing for assembly, choosing an installation location

Before starting work on assembling the stove, it is necessary to prepare the installation site. After pouring the foundation, it will take time for the concrete to harden. During this period, you can slowly make the stove itself. The foundation can be used no earlier than 7 days after pouring. On top of the concrete base you need to lay a platform of refractory bricks.

A high-quality foundation is necessary for safe operation of the furnace.

When choosing a place to install the stove, you need to consider the following circumstances:

the distance to the nearest walls made of flammable material should be more than one meter; if there is no such place, the walls must be additionally protected from heating with an asbestos sheet 8–10 millimeters thick; install a sheet of galvanized metal 0.5–0.7 millimeters thick on top of it;
the chimney in the vertical part should not fall on the supporting beam;
if applicable external chimney with an outlet through the wall, the length of the horizontal part should not be more than one meter; otherwise, you need to make a chimney with a slope of 45 degrees.

It is better to prepare parts and assemble the stove indoors, for example, in a garage. This will save your neighbors from unnecessary noise when working with an angle grinder and from the sparkle of the electric welding arc. The room needs to be equipped exhaust ventilation. If welding is performed under open air, the work area must be protected with protective screens.

Furnace modernization

Improving the operating parameters of the furnace is associated with an increase in its heat transfer. For this purpose, additional heat exchange surfaces are used on the furnace body. Such parts can be made from various metal profiles, including strips, angles, profile pipes. The choice of material depends on what is available from leftovers.

Additional heat exchangers from metal profile increase device efficiency

Additional heating surfaces can be installed not only on the outer surface, but also inside the firebox, which allows you to intensively heat the air in the room. A negative result of such a solution will be oxygen burnout at high temperatures.

Features of operation of a pyrolysis furnace

The main difference between pyrolysis furnaces is the ability to use a wide variety of fuels. In solid fuel stoves, it is possible to burn not only traditional flammable substances, but also rubber, plastic and other materials that are strictly not recommended for burning conventional stoves.

This feature is associated with complete decomposition of the fuel and secondary combustion of the resulting gases in a separate chamber. After that in smoke emissions only carbon dioxide and water vapor. No harmful emissions into the atmosphere occur during pyrolysis.

But when using such fuel at the ignition stage, a persistent smell of burnt rubber remains in the room. Therefore, such heating units must be installed outside residential premises.

Maintenance of pyrolysis furnaces

Pyrolysis ovens require much less attention compared to conventional devices. This is due to the fact that there are practically no solid particles in the flue gases that form soot. The presence of water vapor in the exhaust determines the formation of condensation on the walls of the chimney. Therefore, it is necessary to install a condensate collector with a drain tap, which must be used regularly as it accumulates.

This statement is true for perfectly balanced stoves, where complete decomposition of the fuel occurs. But a breakthrough of conventional furnace gases cannot be ruled out, so regular inspection is necessary. inner surface chimney. If necessary, it must be cleaned. Inspections are carried out at least twice a year.

Long-burning stoves must use an insulated stainless steel pipe.

Furnaces using waste oil must be cleaned regularly as carbon deposits and slag deposits form in the fuel bowl. In the first fuel combustion chamber, normal combustion occurs with the release of solid particles. The design of the furnace allows you to visually monitor the condition of this unit.

There are no small details when making a heating stove yourself. Each circumstance must be carefully weighed and thought out. Otherwise, all efforts will be in vain. I wish you success!

The onset of cold weather makes the issue of heating very relevant. It is especially important for those premises in which people are occasionally present: utility rooms, garages, etc. Set up here stationary system It is very impractical, and often impossible, but it is also impossible to do without heating. There are two options: systems running on electricity or solid fuel. The second one is economical stove from a gas cylinder - even an inexperienced home craftsman can assemble it with his own hands. Let's take a closer look at how this is done.

The principle of operation of such a stove

This type of oven is practical solution for all kinds of unheated rooms that occasionally need to be heated. Due to its design features, the potbelly stove heats up very quickly, which allows you to achieve comfortable temperature. However, it cools down just as quickly and this is its big drawback. You can deal with it by covering the stove with bricks, but be sure to leave a small gap between the masonry and the metal. Only in this case the device will save high speed warming up, but it will take longer to cool down.

There must be two rectangular holes on the body of the heater. One is for supplying fuel, the second is for blowing

The main structural element is the housing, on which there are doors through which fuel is introduced into the system. The system also includes a chimney and a vent. This is the name of a special hole for air that ensures the combustion process. Quite often it is combined with a compartment where ash is collected. It is best to install another door here, this will make it easier to clean the oven. The principle of operation of the system is simple. Fuel is added to the firebox. When it burns, heat is released, which heats the metal of the case. That, in turn, gives off heat to the air and very quickly warms up the room. The chimney pipe removes combustion products harmful to humans from the room.

A small nuance. If the chimney is laid along the shortest path, then most of the heat will escape out along with the smoke. This is very irrational, so you should arrange a broken-shaped pipe. This will significantly increase the efficiency of the furnace. Almost anything that can burn can be used as fuel for the system. This could be firewood, coal, carpentry waste, old clothes, household waste, etc. The attractiveness of a potbelly stove lies in the simplicity of its design and versatility, since the device can be used not only for heating, but also for cooking.

Instructions for self-production

For an experienced home craftsman it will not be special labor make a potbelly stove. You should start by preparing the gas cylinder for use. This is a mandatory procedure, otherwise the gas, which most often remains in the container, may explode upon contact with a spark during cutting. First, unscrew the cylinder valve and let the remaining gas escape. Then we turn the container over and drain the condensate. It should be noted that it smells very unpleasant. Therefore, it is worth carefully collecting it in some kind of container. The smell from condensation accidentally falling on the floor or other surface takes a very long time to disappear.

Before you start working with the cylinder, it should be prepared. It is imperative to get rid of any remaining gas in the container, otherwise it may explode during work.

Place the container vertically and fill it to the top with water. This is necessary so that the remaining gas that remains inside is completely displaced by the liquid. Then turn the container on its side and completely drain the water. Now the cylinder can be subjected to any manipulation without fear. This is how, for example, disassembling and cutting takes place:

Having prepared everything you need, you should determine the type of stove. It can be of horizontal or vertical design.

Option #1 - horizontal system

In this embodiment, the cylinder is placed in a horizontal plane. First you need to cut off its top part. Then install a grate inside the container. It is made from reinforcement. The rod is neatly bent like a snake. Installation of grates is quite simple. They are installed in the container and welded to it. Now let's work on the front part. We take a sheet of steel and mark on it the outline of a circle with a diameter equal to the outer contour of the cylinder. Cut out the part. Then we mark two rectangular holes inside the circle. The first is intended for supplying fuel to the combustion chamber, the second - under the ash pan.

Using a chisel or grinder, cut out the intended holes. We weld the curtains to the finished lid and attach the doors to them. The latter should be covered along the contour with asbestos-cement cord. We weld the prepared structure to the cylinder. The front part of the stove is ready. Let's move on to the back of the device. Here you need to install a chimney. To do this, we cut out a hole equal in size to the diameter of the pipe used to remove smoke. We weld a chimney of the required shape and size, made of thick wall pipe. The oven is ready.

A type of potbelly stove, which involves a horizontal arrangement of the body of the gas cylinder. Quite simple to manufacture design

Option #2 - vertical design

When arranging this design, the cylinder is located vertically. There are two ways to set up the system. The first assumes large quantity work associated with cutting, but during installation there are fewer difficulties. When choosing this method, use a grinder to remove the upper part of the cylinder. The second method saves time, effort and electrodes, but is extremely inconvenient. In this case, the upper part of the cylinder remains in place. In any case, we cut out a fairly large combustion hole on the front of the future device. Below you need to place a smaller hole for the blower and cleaning the stove from ash.

You can place holes arbitrarily, as well as select sizes for them. The main thing is that there are two rectangular holes in the lower part of the case. Without them, the stove will not be able to function. Now you should prepare the grates for installation. They are made from reinforcing rods, which are bent in the form of a snake and welded inside the body between rectangular holes. In the case of the first installation option, this operation is carried out very easily, since the grille is lowered through the open top part. In the second case, it is quite difficult, since the grate bars are inserted through the top hole and held through the bottom hole, and this is extremely inconvenient.

A potbelly stove can be made from a gas cylinder placed vertically. This system involves two manufacturing methods. The top of the container can either be cut off for ease of installation or not

After installing the grates, the curtains are welded to the holes for the doors. They need to be covered with asbestos-cement cord to ensure the necessary tightness and installed in place. Now you need to make a hole for the chimney. This can be done in two ways. The central exhaust gas outlet and oxygen supply is supposed to be through a hole in the top cover of the device. The size of the hole must correspond to the diameter of the pipe that will be used as a chimney. Side smoke exhaust and oxygen supply are also possible. In this case, the hole is made in the side of the body. An elbow is most often welded to it, but a direct outlet can also be arranged. Final stage– fastening the chimney of the required configuration and length. If the top of the cylinder is cut off, weld it in place.

Homemade potbelly stove - very economical and sufficient effective solution for heating rarely used rooms. When deciding to use it, you need to remember that such a heating device is potentially dangerous. It burns oxygen, so it is necessary to provide it from time to time fresh air access to the premises. In addition, all precautions necessary when handling devices that operate with open flames should be observed. In this case, there will be no security problems.