Gable roof with your own hands

A do-it-yourself gable roof will become the tinned pride of the home owner and will fully comply with his desires. In order for it to be not only a decoration, but also a reliable, durable, building protection, you need to very carefully think through its design, compose detailed plan works We will share experience and information on how to make the roof of a house with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself rafter system for a gable roof

Choosing a gable roof design is the most an important part preparation. The strength of the frame determines not only its resistance to the weight of snow and wind pressure, but also affects the durability of roofing materials.

Steep roof

The steeper the slope, the more free space the attic or attic room. In addition, when the slope is more than 50°, snow will not accumulate on the roof.

Accordingly, the strength of the rafters may be less, and this will allow for good savings on the volume of lumber used. On the other hand, a roof that is too high experiences a lot of wind pressure and may be destroyed during a hurricane.

DIY flat roof

A low gable roof easily withstands strong winds, but has a reduced load capacity and is critical to the large weight of a thick layer of wet snow. The most ideal slope is considered to be 30°. This is the angle that provides:

sufficient strength,
balance between wind pressure and lift,
good lighting of the roof plane in the winter season.

Selection of the angle of inclination taking into account the weight of the roof

The weight of the roof can be a significant portion of the overall weight of the roof. Therefore, when designing the frame structure, we also take into account the weight of the roof material.

Advantages of using modern roofing materials

When planning how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, you should keep in mind that modern gable roofing is lightweight and easy to install. Covering a roof with metal tiles is much easier and faster than doing the same with outdated slate. And laying self-adhesive soft rolled bitumen shingles is not only much faster, but also within the power of the most inexperienced person. In addition, it very effectively dampens the noise of falling rain and hail.

Features of preparing the base for various types of roofing

The pitch of the sheathing under the metal tiles should correspond to the width of one sheet. Sheet material is laid under the soft roof. As a rule, waterproof chipboard is used for this.

It is not recommended to use solid plank flooring, since their size and shape can vary significantly depending on the level of air humidity, which can lead to premature destruction soft tiles at the seams. The use of thick plywood is also not recommended. It is less durable than good chipboard, and does not allow the use of nails.

Frame materials

To build the roof frame, only coniferous wood is used. Coniferous timber and boards are very strong, elastic, practically do not absorb moisture, are not subject to rotting and are not to the taste of tree-eating beetles. To increase the fire safety of the roof, wood should be treated with appropriate fire retardants (special OZL-SK varnish, VD-545 wood paint and fire retardants or biopyrenes).

Dimensions of timber and boards for various elements of the gable roof frame

The minimum cross-section of timber and boards for frame elements is determined from the table below.

The cross-section of the rafters depends on the pitch and maximum length rafter leg.

Tools and accessories

To build a gable roof with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

axe;
hammer;
universal or cross-cut saw;
open-end wrench the right size under nuts and tie rods;
pliers;
construction stapler;
screwdriver;
nail puller;
drill.

Commonly used hand tool, but using an electric one instead will speed up the work and simplify the task. It is very useful to have a plumb line and water level on hand. The role of a plumb line can be played by any small weight on the twine. Instead of a water level, you can use a spirit level, but this is less convenient, and the accuracy of setting the horizontal line over extended areas is much lower.

In addition to the tool itself, you will also need the following devices:

ladder or stepladder;
winch, homemade or collapsible platform.

A little about security

If the height of the work site exceeds three human heights, you must take care of your safety before building a roof. All structural elements of the roof have considerable weight and, combined with their height, pose a potential danger to humans.

When lifting wooden beams, boards, or finished rafter structures from the ground to the top, you need to use a winch rather than pull them by hand. When laying the roof, be sure to use safety ropes or ropes securely attached to a solid base. A first aid kit must be available at the construction site.

Roofing a house with your own hands: the procedure for constructing the roof

A gable roof can have different design. Let's consider the simplest implementation.

Laying the Mauerlat

Along the upper edge of the walls we lay the mauerlat - the basis for the roof frame. The Mauerlat is made from timber with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. TO wooden walls the timber is secured with nails, bolts or staples.

IN stone walls fastenings in the idea of anchors or threaded rods are provided during their construction. Separate wooden blocks in masonry - not the best the best option for attaching the Mauerlat. As a last resort, the wooden liners need to be duplicated with fastening brackets or metal plates that tighten the mauerlat and the stone base.

To prevent the roof of the house from being blown away by strong winds, the rods or anchors must be at least 10 mm in diameter. A layer of waterproofing - roofing felt or other durable material - is laid between the masonry and the mauerlat.

Installation of ridge beams

We install ridge beams on the gables of the building. This will allow you to assemble the roof skeleton right on site. Installing the rafters of a gable roof with your own hands can be done even alone. The rafters are laid alternately from the ridge to the mauerlat, fastened together at the top, cut in place and attached to the ridge. The design with a load-bearing ridge beam allows you to assemble the roof yourself or with one assistant. Overhang - part of the roof extending beyond the walls of the building, formed by protruding parts rafter legs or additional extension boards - fillies. The boards for them must withstand the weight of the overhanging part of the roof and the gutter filled with water.

If the building design does not include capital gables, the rafters will need to be connected to each other on the ground and supplied to the roof in the form of ready-made rafter corners. Moreover, their installation will require the coordinated action of several people. The upper part of the rafters is fastened with a ridge, which is tapped from below.

Depending on the roof structure, nails, metal flashings, angles or studs may be used for fastening. The design of such rafters usually includes a transverse tie - a crossbar, and all the necessary cuts and cuts. From the ground, finished rafter structures are fed along inclined boards using ropes or a winch. The location of the rafter legs is marked in advance on the mauerlat and the ridge, taking into account the selected step.

How to make a house roof: installing sheathing

To increase the rigidity of the structure and reduce the thrust load on the walls, the rafters are tied with ties. When building a roof with your own hands, the easiest way is to use long boards or stacked beams.

After installing the frame, the sheathing is installed. In this case, they are guided by the rule: for a hard roof, the pitch of the sheathing must correspond to the size of the roofing sheets, and for a roof made of soft materials it will be necessary solid base.
A vapor barrier membrane is stretched along the inside of the rafters. It protects the interior of the house from atmospheric humidity. Insulation is laid on top of the vapor barrier, and vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of it.
The numerous pores of such a membrane are impermeable to water, but allow water vapor to pass through, so the insulation “breathes” and does not suffer from condensation. The gable roof, photo of which is shown in this section, ensures minimal leakage of internal heat.

Gutters and other drainage elements are installed on the roof eaves. The final stage of construction is laying the roof and sealing all technological gaps and cracks. After this, the roof installation is considered complete.

Bottom line

A do-it-yourself gable roof is a guarantee of high-quality roofing. By strictly following all the recommendations of specialists and following the step-by-step instructions with photos, you will cope with assembly and installation without any problems. If you decide to entrust the work construction company, then you will be able to supervise any process, you will select it yourself required material and make an accurate calculation of expenses.

Before considering the question of how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to decide on the meaning of the words “roof” and “roofing”: is there a difference between them and what is it? A practical owner, wanting to reduce construction costs, strives to do most of the work himself, without involving professionals and a correct understanding of the terms and designations in construction work oh he just needs it. That’s why high-quality information on how to properly install this or that is so important. architectural element house under construction.

Roof - essential element house design, providing protection from environmental influences and determining the aesthetic appearance of the building.

So, the roof is the upper part of the building, covering the interior from the environment, and the roof is the top covering of the roof, made of moisture and windproof coating.

Therefore, the meanings of these words are completely different. A roof built with your own hands is a source of pride for every owner. But in order for it to be durable and truly decorate the building, you need to know how it is made.

Types of pitched roofs

There are two types of roofs: flat and pitched. Since the former are extremely rarely built by developers, let’s take a closer look at what types of roofs with slopes there are:

A single-pitch system is a rather rare choice. It has a slope from one wall to another. Private developers often build them for garages, sheds, and utility rooms. In urban housing construction, they are used where it is undesirable to install drainage systems and dump snow.
The gable roof of a house is the most common option. Used everywhere.
Half-hipped (hatched) is an indispensable attribute of country houses.
Four-slope hip roof is a structure whose slopes are connected to each other at one point and descend along different sides of the building.
The spire-like system is designed in the form of several steep triangular slopes connecting at one point. They are used in the construction of towers, bay windows, and buildings with round walls.

What you need to know when choosing a roof design with slopes

The higher the slope angle of the roof, the less time the snow will remain on it, and accordingly create less load.

If the angle of the slope exceeds 50 degrees, then the snow will not linger on it. Accordingly, the load on the roof during the cold season will be insignificant. This means that the calculations can include a lower strength coefficient of the rafters and save on building materials.
For roofs with a 20-degree slope angle, the cross-section of the rafters should be maximum, since such a structure will have to withstand significant loads.
The fire safety requirements for roofs are as follows: when exposed to open fire, it must withstand it without causing much damage for 15-30 minutes. In order for your design to meet this indicator, be aware that the fire resistance limit is higher for roofs with rafters maximum section, treated with a fire-bioprotective composition.
If the house is being built in the northern region, then the roof should include high-quality insulation. Consequently, the load on the roof structural elements will increase. This must be taken into account when choosing a building material.
The smaller the slope angle, the greater the consumption of roofing materials will be, since the overlap between the sheets of covering in this case should be wider.
The steeper the roof, the longer the overhang required. It protects the walls of the building from rainwater and snow getting on them.
When deciding on the type of roof to choose, first of all think about the roofing material. Its weight determines which rafter scheme to choose. The heaviest roofing is made of ceramic tiles. For it we make a reinforced truss structure and a powerful foundation.

Installation of a gable roof structure

Let's look at how to make the most common type of house roof with your own hands with the following rafter laying scheme: they are laid on the floor beams top floor Houses.

Mauerlat installation

Diagram of a gable roof.

The construction of any roof begins with its installation. Builders also call this structural element differently: matitsa, murlat, uterus, etc. Mauerlat is a wooden beam with a cross-section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm, which is installed on the walls of the house. It is designed to distribute the load from the weight of the roof, including snow and wind, onto the walls of the building. The timber should be laid along the inner edge of the wall on a double layer of roofing material, and on the outside the tree should be protected from the adverse influence of the environment using a row brickwork or waterproofing and facing material.

Often the developer has a question: is it necessary to attach the Mauerlat to the walls? Since the roof always weighs quite a lot, this beam, as many people think, will not go anywhere. But you need to secure it, because in the event of a hurricane, your house may well be left without a roof: it will simply be blown away by the wind. There are several ways to attach the Mauerlat to the walls. In practice, the following are most often used:

If the building is built of brick, then a competent builder, finishing the laying of the walls, will certainly wall up wooden blocks in the 2-3rd row from the top. The Mauerlat will be attached to them using vertically installed brackets.
If the house is made of foam or aerated concrete, then a reinforced concrete belt needs to be made over the walls. During its installation, threaded rods must be installed at a distance of 1.5-2 m (at least). Holes are drilled in the timber for them, it is laid on studs and pulled to the walls with nuts.

Before you install the beams on the walls with your own hands, they need to be fastened together. This is done as follows: we cut out half the thickness of the tree from both ends of 10-15 cm and splice the beams together, fastening them with bolts or nails. When installing the mat, it is important to take into account that its upper part should protrude 2-3 cm above the surface of the wall. This will ensure that the weight of the roof is transferred to the mauerlat, and not to the walls.

Installing floor beams

The angle of inclination of a gable roof must be at least 35 degrees.

They are beams with a cross section of 200x100 or 150x100 mm. The length of the beams should be such that when laid on the walls, they form a projection corresponding to the width of the future cornice. In most cases, it is 40-50 cm. Simply put, these beams must be larger than the length of the house by a certain distance. The beams are installed in one direction at equal intervals. This work must be done in strict sequence:

First, we lay the beams against the opposite walls with our own hands, retreating 50-60 cm from their edges.
We stretch a cord between the outer beams, which will serve as a guide for installing subsequent ones.
If the beam does not lie flat on the hay, then you can place wooden dies under it and trim the mauerlat in this place.
The distance between the beams is selected taking into account the pitch and cross-section of future rafters. For example, if it is decided to mount the rafters from “floor” boards 50x150 mm, then the pitch will be 60 cm. This is the most best option, which greatly simplifies further work, since the width of the roofing insulation is also 60 cm. In this case, it does not have to be cut and extended.
Now let's install it ourselves cross beams, which are connected at one end to the outer beam, and at the other extend beyond the wall to the distance of the cornice on the side of the gables. The distance between these jumpers is 1 m.
We attach all floor beams to the mauerlat with 150 nails, steel angles or self-tapping screws.
To make it easy to move around during work, we lay regular boards on the beams.

Installing the ridge beam

We begin to install the auxiliary racks with our own hands. They are U-shaped wooden struts, the height of which must correspond to the height at which it is planned to install the ridge, that is, the height of the roof. Professionals advise taking it equal to the height of the first floor (from the ground to the mauerlat, if the house is one-story).
First, we assemble it with our own hands and install the racks on opposite sides of the roof.
Then we stretch the cord between them and install intermediate ones along it in increments of 2.5-3 m.
When all the racks of the rafter truss are installed, we place the ridge beam on them, strictly in the middle. Usually it is a board 50x200 or 50x150 mm. There is no need to securely attach it to the auxiliary stands. For now, a few screws will suffice.

Installation of the rafter system

Gable roof rafter system.

Since the rafters must be strictly the same length, before starting work we make a template with our own hands, according to which we will measure them. To do this, take a 25x150 board and attach it with one end to the ridge and the other to the beam. We will put marks at the points of contact and cut the board along them. Despite the fact that we will need a template and will greatly facilitate the work, it is still difficult to achieve strict geometricity of the building and we will have to adjust the length of the rafters more than once.

Having installed the rafter from one roof slope, after it we install the opposite one along the other slope. This will relieve the load on the ridge beam. If you do not follow this sequence, the ridge will bend and the structure will become unreliable. If the slope is very long (more than 6 m) and the standard length of the boards for the rafters is not enough, this problem can be solved in two ways:

order longer material at the sawmill;
splice two available boards together by sewing a piece of exactly the same material onto them.

We attach each rafter to the horse beams with a couple of nails. In order to pull it to the beam with your own hands, we use fastening iron plates or wood screws. It is not advisable to use steel staples in these works, since they “work” in tension.

We strengthen each rafter by installing a support post closer to the beam. If we have an attic roof, these racks will form the basis for the side walls.

We are working on the installation of gables and hemming the cornice

We will do waterproofing and sheathing

If the sequence is strictly followed and all work is carried out correctly, the roof of your house will be in no way inferior to that which would have been made by professionals.

for the convenience of work around the perimeter of the house, you need to install scaffolding;
We lay the first waterproofing layer on the rafters: a special film and fasten it with a construction stapler;
We take 25x50 mm slats and begin to mount the counter-lattice with our own hands. This should not be a problem, since each roofing material is accompanied by instructions on how to make it yourself;
We install vertical posts from the same batten along the counter-lattice. Thus, we get a full-fledged sheathing;
we make a gable overhang and ebb:

We attach a 25x150 board to the ends of the sheathing protruding from the side of the gable. This will be the wind board of the gable overhang.
Along the entire height of the pediment, we install lintels with our own hands, which builders call “fillies.” They should be 1 m apart from each other.
We attach 25x150 boards in two layers to the fillies from below with our own hands. We will install siding or other facing material on them.
Using pre-prepared triangular fillies, we will make a pediment ebb. We also cover it with a double layer of 25x150 boards.

Installation of roofing material

The choice here is not too large: metal tiles, profiled metal profiles, ceramic tiles, slate, ondulin, galvanized iron. All of them are strong, durable, waterproof. Which one to buy depends on the preferences of the home owner. Let's look at how to install roofing material with your own hands using corrugated sheeting as an example.

Corrugated roofing: choosing material

Let's pay attention to the thickness of the sheet and its brand. For light roofing, it is recommended to choose sheets of grades C8, C10, C13, C18, C25 and C44. If you need a more durable coating, then buy NS35 or NS44. The waveform can be either trapezoidal or sinusoidal. The wave height should be from 20 mm. The color of the corrugated sheet should be in harmony with color scheme facing material the whole house.

We calculate the amount of material based on the area of one sheet of corrugated sheeting that you will buy. In the calculations, you need to take into account that the roof covering is installed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Plus, you need to provide a reserve of 4-5% of the roof area of the house. For a gable structure, it is quite easy to calculate how much material is needed. But if the roof is complex or broken, then you need to turn this issue to professionals.

Necessary additional elements:

end strip;
cornice strip;
gutter strip;
abutment strips;
valley;
snow retention bars;
ridge elements.

Installation of corrugated sheets on the roof

Safety rules: you need to move in soft shoes strictly along the recesses between the waves. We wear gloves, as the edges of the sheets are sharp.
We begin installation of corrugated sheets from the bottom of the slope. We lay the first layer of sheets along its entire width with our own hands. The roof is laid with an overlap of 1-2 waves.
Fasteners - self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets. We screw them only into the recesses between the waves.
We lay the upper tier of corrugated sheets with an overlap of at least 15 cm on the lower one.
We install the ridge element with our own hands: if the slope of the roof slopes is small, then we use rubber compressor. The overlap of the ridge on the corrugated sheet should be at least 20 cm.
We begin installation of the junction strips from the bottom of the pipe. We hammer the brick, wash the seam, and place one edge of the plank into the pipe. We fix it with connecting tape and attach it to the corrugated sheet. This is how you make a gable roof with your own hands.

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How to build the roof of a house with your own hands in 3 stages

I won’t deceive you, building a roof with your own hands is a very troublesome task, but still real. The whole process is divided into 3 fairly extensive stages - preparation and calculation, installation rafter system and arrangement of the roofing pie. And then we will go through all the stages of installation step by step, plus I will talk about some of the pitfalls that await you during the construction process.

Stage No. 1: selection of design and calculation details

The structure of the roof of a private house directly depends on the type of structure, because not every building is within the capabilities of an amateur, even if this amateur is fluent with any tool.

Types of structures

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Shed roof. As a rule, there are no difficulties with the construction of a pitched roof. But in Russia such structures are relevant only for small outbuildings up to 6 m wide. Shed roof good home often unable to withstand snow and wind loads. And she looks very mediocre.
	Gable roof. This design can rightfully be called a queen. For people without experience, a gable roof is considered the best option.
	Hip sloping roof. People call this structure an attic, but in reality an attic is a living space in the attic and the type of roof this concept is indirectly related. WITH practical point From a perspective, such a roof is perhaps the most comfortable, plus the technology here is not much more complicated than that of a gable structure.
	Hip roof. The hip one is somewhat similar to gable roof, only at the ends there are 2 more gentle slopes installed in it. Calculation and installation here are already more complicated, and roofing material it will cost more.
	Half hip roof. This model is suitable for those owners who want an original and relatively simple attic.
	Gable roof. The gable model is a symbiosis of several gable structures. In appearance everything seems simple, but installation of this design is very problematic.
	Tent structure. The hip roof is a hipped prism. It only makes sense to install it on square houses with a large area and without an attic, since it will be miniature there.

There are also conical, spire-shaped, multi-level, vaulted and other complex structures, but it is impossible for a craftsman without experience to assemble such structures with his own hands.

How to calculate a roof

Gentle slopes of 20–35º, on the one hand, are easier to equip, but on the other, the roof trusses need to be seriously strengthened, since the snow does not fall off such slopes on its own.

To avoid problems with snow, the slope angle should be about 60º, but such a steep roof has a large windage and in windy areas special fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat is required.

The topic of accurate calculations when designing a roof is worthy of a separate story; the video in this article partly shows this process, but you can take a simpler route.

In the “basement” of our website (below the article) there is a section “construction calculators”, there you will find programs with which different types roofs are calculated simply, quickly, and most importantly accurately.

Stage No. 2: installation of the truss structure

This stage also consists of 2 subsections:

arrangement of the Mauerlat;
installation of the rafter system on the Mauerlat.

We fasten the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is, figuratively speaking, a gasket between the walls of a house and the roof. The design is quite simple, it is a square wooden beam with a cross-section of 150x150 mm, which can be solid or stacked, but there are nuances in installing the Mauerlat.

For wooden house the Mauerlat as such is not needed; its function is performed by a beam or log in the extreme top harness. In this case, it is not advisable to attach the floor beams to the upper frame. Most often they are placed under this harness, that is, they are mounted on one of the previous rows;
For walls made of cellular concrete (foam and aerated concrete) under the Mauerlat, you must first install a reinforced reinforced concrete belt and lay timber on it. Otherwise, the distribution of the load from the roof will be uneven and the walls will begin to crack;
IN cinder block houses It is also advisable to fill the upper reinforced belt under the Mauerlat. You can do without it only if the walls are laid out with one and a half or more cinder blocks;

In brick houses it is not necessary to pour a reinforced belt under the Mauerlat; such walls can easily withstand the pressure of the roof;

Keep in mind - under no circumstances should you place the Mauerlat on a bare wall. On top load-bearing wall A two-layer gasket made of roofing felt must be made.

If a reinforced concrete belt is poured on top, then during the construction process, vertical metal studs or simply reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm or more are walled up in increments of no more than 1 m, and timber will be attached to them;

To the walls where there is no reinforced belt , the timber is secured with anchors in increments of 50–70 cm.

Rafter system

Any rafter system is mounted directly on the Mauerlat, but the mount can be rigid or floating. It's easy to figure out, the floating connection is mounted only on wooden houses, it is necessary to compensate for the shrinkage of the structure.

There is another important point - there are layered and hanging rafter systems. In the layered version, in addition to the lateral external walls, the load is also distributed onto the internal walls, and hanging system lies only on external walls. So, if possible, try to arrange a layered structure, it is more reliable.

The designs of rafter systems vary and it is important to understand the terminology; the diagram below shows the main elements in such systems. The only important detail that is not well marked there is the ridge beam or ridge purlin; it is mounted at the top connection point of the rafter legs.

People often wonder how difficult it is to lift a finished roof. Theoretically, this is not difficult, you just need to untwist the anchors holding the mauerlat, after which jacks are placed under it, and the entire structure is gradually raised. But it’s worth doing this only if you are confident in the strength of the old roof.

Stage No. 3: roofing

When installing a roof, the most important thing is to properly arrange the sheathing for the roof covering. There are 2 types of lathing:

Continuous sheathing It is mounted under seam roofing, as well as rolled and soft roofing, for example, bitumen shingles. Previously, such lathing was made from planed boards 100x20 mm. Now craftsmen prefer to sheathe rafters with OSB sheets;

Sparse wooden sheathing used for sheet materials (ceramic tiles, slate, ondulin, etc.).

The arrangement technology is simple, the main thing here is to do the workpiece correctly, and the insulation can be installed later. By the way, solid sheet sheathing can be installed directly on the rafters; everything shown below applies only to the loosened options.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Rafter system. The rafter system is installed first.
	Wind protection. We roll out and staple the waterproofing film to the rafters. It is popularly called wind protection. Such a film is vapor-permeable on one side, but steam should only escape in the direction from the house to the street.
	Counter rake. A counter rail made of a 50x50 mm block is placed on top of the wind protection.
	Sparse lathing. The sheathing strips are placed on counter slats. The pitch of the under-roof sheathing is selected depending on the type roofing, after which you can begin installing the roofing itself.

Insulation from below is laid under the rafters. mineral wool. I don’t recommend saving on cotton wool; you only need to take thick cotton wool slabs. Soft mats under the roof quickly become unusable. A complete diagram of the arrangement of the roofing pie is given below.

Conclusion

Of course, each type of roof has its own arrangement nuances, but the stages I described are suitable for absolutely all structures. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

November 1, 2017

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When choosing a simple structure for the roof of a residential, utility or any other building, as well as an extension to the main building, the most advantageous is a lean-to roof. It is erected quite simply, is undemanding in terms of the type of foundation due to the low load, and will also easily fit into the budget of any budget project. A do-it-yourself pitched roof is being built step by step in as soon as possible even by one person without the involvement of additional equipment or people. The design has increased functionality and reliability.

The most common areas of application for pitched roofs are bathhouses and outbuildings.

In order to understand whether it is worth making a choice in favor of a pitched roof, it is worth assessing what advantages will be obtained and minimizing the impact of the disadvantages. The advantages include the following criteria:

Economical in terms of financial costs not only for building materials, but also for strengthening walls to increase their resistance to compressive and tensile stresses.
The simplicity of design will allow even non-specialists to build roofs of this type and at the same time receive optimal timing their operation, as well as the absence of any maintenance requirements.
Possibility with panoramic views.
Reduced roof windage in the presence of predominantly directional winds and choice correct location slope slope.
High maintainability due to the simplicity of the design of the rafter system and sheathing.
It is permissible to use any roofing materials if the correct angles of inclination are selected.

A do-it-yourself pitched roof, built step by step, also has a number of disadvantages: it cannot withstand significant loads during heavy snowfalls, does not have a very aesthetic appearance, and also does not hold the roofing material during strong gusts of wind from the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope. In fact, for competent designers these disadvantages are not so significant and, if necessary, they can easily be turned into advantages. So, for example, to prevent the roof from falling off, it is enough to plant trees on the site or build a higher building nearby. To improve the aesthetics of the perception of a pitched roof, it is enough to use a trick and implement a project with multi-level slopes of the slopes on two opposite sides of the house.

Helpful information! The pitched roof does not allow for the installation attic space. This fact must be taken into account when planning the roof.

Preparatory work

A do-it-yourself pitched roof is built step by step only after preparatory work. The service life of the structure depends entirely on their thoughtfulness. First of all, this concerns the correct planning of the roof and the selection of materials.

How to make a pitched roof?

For a pitched roof, the angle of inclination is the main criterion for its reliability. On the one hand, the larger the angle, the more effectively precipitation is removed, and on the other hand, it is the main element that must withstand gusts of wind. During severe winters with significant amounts of precipitation, a thick layer of ice and snow forms on the roof, which can create loads that exceed permissible loads, as a result of which the roof can become deformed and break. That is, the angle of inclination of the slope according to this criterion should be based on the climate.

Attention! The angle of inclination of the roof should be directed towards the highest wind flows in order to reduce the resistance of the structure to them.

Another factor that affects the slope of a roof is the roofing material, which may have different roughness or strength. Qualitatively, its applicability for roofing can be divided according to the angles of inclination:

When the slope is tilted up to 10 0, it is allowed to use only roll materials, which have an even and relatively smooth surface. These include roofing felt, bitumen shingles etc.
When tilting from 10 0 to 20 0, it is possible to use corrugated materials such as slate, metal profile or ondulin.
When the slope is inclined 28 0 - 35 0, smooth metal roofing sheets, joined by seam method.
Tilt angles of 25 0 -35 0 are suitable for laying metal or ceramic tiles.

Important information! Greater inclination angles than 35 0 are not recommended due to increased resistance to air flows and deterioration of streamlining, which can lead to failure of the roofing material.

Construction and design of a pitched roof

The construction of pitched roofs is quite simple and includes the following components:

Rafter system. Designed to absorb the main load of the roof and distribute it evenly along the entire area of the walls of the facility. Usually it is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, depending on the roof area and the number of supporting elements.
Insulating layers. They are laid between the rafters and fixed to the sheathing and sheathing with inside building. Their role is to ensure maximum protection of the object and supporting structural elements from moisture or freezing.
Lathing. Designed to secure the roofing material and provide sufficient load-bearing capacity to support its own weight and various expected loads. The material for its manufacture can be MDF panels, edged and unedged boards. The choice is made according to the type of roofing material.
Roofing material. Allows you to provide excellent aesthetic properties of the roof, as well as protect it from precipitation.

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Types of roof supports

The roof support is selected based on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the roofing material. There are the following types of supports:

Layered. They are additional structural elements that are installed evenly along the length of the slope in the inner part of the roof.

Hanging. The most simple circuit fastening based only on two supports located above the walls of the building.

Sliding. Fastening to the walls is carried out on a special structure supported by a Mauerlat (harness).

Is it necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space?

In some structures, the requirements of the roofing material and the object itself, due to the peculiarities of its operating conditions, create the need to ensure ventilation of the roof. A striking example is a bathhouse, where the temperature difference between the internal premises and the external environment is more than 100°C. The main goal is to get rid of the formation of condensation and damage to the main elements. For a roof, it is necessary to provide a gap on the gables between the covering, the roof and the rafter system.

Create a drawing

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to take measurements of the wall trim, if this has not been done previously. After this, taking into account the specific features of the object, as well as the selected design parameters, the optimal parameters of the slope angle should be calculated.

The optimal distance between the rafters should be 1-1.5 m. The sheathing pitch is selected based on the requirements for laying the roofing material. Taking into account all the data, a drawing is created, and then the quantity of building materials that will need to be purchased is calculated. Additionally, it is recommended to make a reserve of materials in the amount of 10-15% of the total quantity.

List of required tools

Carrying out construction work will require the use of a number of tools that must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt the installation. Therefore, before making the main structural elements and building a pitched roof, you need to prepare the following tools:

screwdriver for comfortable connection of structural elements;
pencil or marker for marking;
building level for adjusting the position of roof parts;
stapler for attaching waterproofing;
hammer for hammering nails;
saw for sawing rafters and sheathing to the required dimensions;
tape measure for taking measurements;
plumb line to control vertical position.

Do-it-yourself pitched roof step by step - description of the stages of work

After carrying out a number of preparatory work, you need to begin installation. The installation stages are as follows: installation of rafters, laying of sheathing, flooring insulating materials and the main roof. Each stage must be thought out in advance: everything necessary tools and some of the materials are raised onto the roof for easy access to them. With this approach, there will be no downtime or delays, which will guarantee the completion of work on time.

Installation of the rafter system

The construction of a pitched roof truss system is relatively simple and does not require experience in carrying out this type of work or special knowledge. However, it is important to follow the sequence of installation steps.

In accordance with the drawing, we cut on the ground wooden beams 150x150 mm required sizes before lifting them onto the roof. Then we make sure to treat them with antiseptics and apply a protective layer. If this is not done, then insects or other pests may appear in the wood, which will damage the strength of the structure and will have to be replaced.

Important! All wooden beams and boards must be dried in a natural way and have a humidity level of no more than 10%. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the supporting structure with all the ensuing consequences.

On the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope, we install support posts, which are otherwise called pediment posts. At the same stage, additional supports should be installed, if provided for by the design. In most cases they are ordinary spacers. The interval between them for the installation of tiles is more than 3 m, and for profile sheets - more than 6 m.

Attention! At step-by-step installation If you have a pitched roof with your own hands, you definitely need to check the verticality of the racks, since even minimum angle their inclination can reduce the strength of the structure to a level below the minimum design, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

We install the prepared beams on a wooden frame or Mauerlat with fastening “into the claw”, “into the bowl” or onto steel pins. For the first two options, you will need to make appropriate cuts to the Mauerlat and rafters at the points of their contact. To do this, mark the point of contact with a marker, and then saw off the corner with a saw to a depth of no more than 30% of the height of the rafter. Additionally, it is necessary to install special steel brackets to increase the strength of the rafters or anchors.

The installation interval of the rafters is determined by the weight of the roofing material. You should focus on the following values:

for lightweight rolled roofing materials optimal distance between the rafters is 1.5-3 m;
for sheet materials and tiles, the interval should be 0.7-1 m.

Helpful information! All rafters must be laid in the same plane without distortions to ensure reliable contact laths with them.

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Laying insulating layers

Laying insulation when installing a pitched roof with your own hands is mandatory step by step for those buildings that are planned to be used in winter period, in order to increase their energy efficiency. To secure the thermal insulation on the side of the premises, you will have to cover the rafters MDF boards or boards with a thickness of 10 mm butt. In some cases, it is possible to lay plasterboard sheets with a vapor barrier film covering it to protect it from condensation.

The vapor barrier layer is laid overlapping at a distance of 15-20 cm with the obligatory gluing of the joining seams with special tape. Where the outer rafters adjoin, they are laid on a vertical surface to ensure maximum protection from moisture.

At the next stage, the thermal insulation material is laid. When installing a pitched roof with your own hands step by step, it is recommended to use mineral wool materials, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam as insulation. An important point when laying them, it is necessary to ensure tight contact with the rafters without the slightest gaps. A gap measuring 1 mm and 10 cm long can provide heat loss of several kilowatts, depending on the external temperature.

Helpful information! A pitched roof can be insulated with any thermal insulation material. The choice should be made on the basis of its effectiveness, cost and ease of installation.

A waterproofing film must be laid on top of the insulation. The method of installing it is similar to installing a vapor barrier. However, there is a significant nuance - the joining seams must necessarily fall on the rafters, and fastening must be carried out on steel brackets using construction stapler in increments of 10-15 cm.

1 - rafter; 2 — counter rail; 3 - waterproofing film; 4 - vertical sheathing; 5 - horizontal lathing; 7 - vapor barrier film; 8 - waterproofing seam.

Installation of sheathing and roofing material

When performing a step-by-step installation of a pitched roof with your own hands under soft and rolled roofing materials, the sheathing should be installed in the form of a continuous layer. In all other cases, planks are laid under the sheathing at intervals of 50-80 cm. The thickness of the boards should be more than 20 mm, and the width should be from 10 cm. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws to the rafter system. Then wind boards are installed, which will serve as a guide when laying the roofing material in terms of its alignment. However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to control the laying of the row using a level. For convenience, two bars are stuffed from the two end parts of the slope at a distance of about 0.5 m from the wall and a thread is pulled over them. This will be the zero level at which you need to align the row.

The roofing material is laid according to the appropriate technology. Installation begins from one of the corners of the slope and the entire roof is laid in order. The method of fastening is determined by the selected material.

Helpful information! For rigid sheet materials, it is recommended to place fasteners at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner to prevent damage or deformation.

At the final stage, the end parts of the roof are sheathed in places where the slope is inclined.

The strength of the house and comfort largely depend on the reliability of the roof. Let’s look at how to make a roof with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals and third-party organizations, and what tools will be needed for its construction in stages.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools (the list is approximate and depends on the type of roof and material for covering the structure):

hammer (cutting, figured, handbrake hammer, with a curved end);
wooden mallet with chisel and chisel;
jack;
center punch and tape measure;
roofing and special scissors for cutting metal, if you plan to use metal sheets and steel elements;
disk or band-saw;
axe;
roofing mites;
putty knife;
hacksaw;
file;
joiner's staple;
zenzubel;
folding belt;
countersink;
riveter

The roof can be built from the following materials (again, the list is approximate and the materials depend on the preliminary design of the roof, as well as the cost of the construction project):

tiles;
asbestos-cement slabs (slate);
metal roofs;
slate nails if the roof is made of slate;
steel seam roofing;
insulation;
slate roofing;
rolled roofing material;
roofs made of natural materials (straw, wood, reeds);
wooden beams(15,12,10), unedged boards, boards 40–50 mm by 150 mm;
steel seam roofing;
wire for stretch marks;
bitumen slate;
copper and aluminum seam roofing;
profiled flooring;
water barrier and other materials, depending on the roof and plan.

Stages of building a house roof

Roof construction work can be divided into several stages: fastening the Mauerlat, installing the frame, strengthening the roof, lathing, ventilation, installing drip edges and underlayment, internal insulation roofs.

Whatever form is chosen for the project, the main requirements are strength and lightness. The future roof must be strong enough to withstand the heavy weight of the roof with snow, without putting pressure on the walls of the house, which could cause the foundation to sag. Therefore, let us highlight the main components of the roof - these are durable bearing structures, base and covering.

Rafter system

The base of the frame, which determines the shape and strength of the future roof, is made from rafters, and they are made from edged boards at least fifty millimeters thick. The width of the boards depends on the type of rafters. If layered rafters are used in the construction of the roof, then the width should be from one hundred and fifty millimeters.

For hanging rafters boards with a width of one hundred and eighty millimeters are used. Edged board must be dry and High Quality, otherwise the roof will deform over time.

In order to evenly distribute the load on the internal supports of the house, you need to install a block beam with a section of fifteen by fifteen along the axis of the wall.

Then a cornice of beams is installed, with a projection of 39–51 centimeters and short beams. The entire structure is attached to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws and nails.

Then you need to install the ridge beam. The paving board should be fifty by one hundred and fifty centimeters. The height of the ridge beam and the height of the 1st floor must be equal.

After the timber, a rafter truss is installed. Depending on the size of the house, three methods are used: overlapped joint, end-to-end rafter joint, installation on a ridge beam.

In all three options reinforcement is done, and racks and crossbars are installed under all non-outer rafters.

Installation of gables - the final stage of roof construction

First you need to install the racks that will serve as the frame and plan window openings. If you plan to have a balcony, then you need to plan a doorway to access it.

Now the gable can be covered with an inch board and a water drain can be created, after which a hundred-millimeter strip of moisture-resistant material can be laid to protect it from snow and water.

AND the last stage, in the gable structure they are sheathed cornice boards, and drainpipe holders are attached to the rafters.

Lathing

Depending on the angle of the roof and the roofing material, the required frequency of sheathing is selected. For example, staggered sheathing is performed for laying roofing material with a large weight, and if soft material is used, then double sheathing can be made. The main thing is to maintain an even distance between the battens and secure them tightly to the supporting structures.

It remains to complete the installation of the front overhang and ebb.

Roofing

The installation of the roof is completed by laying the roof.

Slate, stamped tiles, steel sheets laid in the form of a single-layer structure. The sheets are joined into a lock, and the natural material, roll and strip tiles are laid in a multilayer structure, in the longitudinal or transverse direction, with an overlap.

To prevent the penetration of moisture, cold, drafts and other weather surprises, waterproofing and thermal insulation layers are laid on top of the rafters.

So, we figured out how to make a roof, from the stage of the rafter system to the roof. All that remains is to select the design, material and apply the above instructions in practice.