Overlap in frame house is the basis for the strength and reliability of the entire structure. It is this that divides the building into floors and provides it with sufficient stability and durability. The interfloor ceiling in a frame house is a layer cake consisting of load-bearing structures, insulating and insulation materials. Considering that the interfloor ceiling in a residential building is a floor and a ceiling at the same time, this pie includes Decoration Materials. Many novice builders do not know exactly how to make a high-quality ceiling of the second floor in a frame house. Indeed, this is a rather responsible process that requires compliance with certain construction technologies.
A construction cake in the form of a floor slab will only serve for a long time and with high quality if all the rules for its installation are followed.
These rules are as follows:
- High load bearing capacity designs. The calculation should be made for the maximum load on the slab. It must withstand the weight of people and furniture and withstand strong gusts of wind without damage or deformation.
- Sufficient rigidity. Floor slab frame house It should not sag when walking on it or carrying even very heavy loads. To do this, you need to correctly calculate the length, width and thickness ceiling beams, methods of attaching them to the harness and walls.
- Sufficient level of sound insulation. This is necessary to ensure that the inhabitants of the first floor do not experience discomfort from noise on the second level.
- Fire resistance. When creating a floor slab cake, you should choose materials that do not support combustion and prevent the spread of fire across floors.
- Low thermal conductivity. This quality is necessary when one floor is not used for living. A well-thought-out design of the interfloor floor in a frame house will protect the living level from heat in summer and cold in winter.
- Ease. Frame houses have limited strength. The basement floor can simply collapse under the pressure of the walls and the massive slab. For its construction you need to choose high-quality and lightweight materials.
During construction, you should not make excessively thick floor slabs between levels. Their insulating qualities must correspond to this parameter for panel walls.
The heaviest load is carried by the beams, which are attached to a horizontal frame installed on top of the first tier. Attach the first floor piping frame structure better with nails. They are much stronger than self-tapping screws and can withstand strong horizontal loads. Over time, the tree shrinks and decreases in volume. The nails ensure that the timber slides down to the bottom layer. In the case of self-tapping screws, large gaps remain that need to be constantly caulked.
As for insulation, it is recommended to use basalt wool. This is a lightweight and elastic material with incredibly low thermal conductivity and fire resistance. The cake in which mineral wool is placed is light in weight and has excellent sound insulation characteristics. Despite the fact that this insulation has low hygroscopicity, it is recommended to insulate it with a membrane film to protect it from dampness.
The bottom of the floor slab is sheathed sheet material. The simplest and in an inexpensive way to make the ceiling is considered to be the use of plasterboard. It is easy to process and lightweight material. Floor beams can be sheathed with plywood or OSB. The lining and block house look beautiful. Stretch ceiling They look impressive, but these products are impractical. Access to the space between them and the floor slab is extremely difficult. If rodents or insects take up residence in this space, property owners will face serious problems and expenses. The most effective in terms of cost, ease of installation and maintenance are plastic panels. This structure can be installed, dismantled and put back in a matter of hours.
On beam floor the second floor can be laid floorboard, OSB, laminate and thick plywood. The choice should be made in favor of a material that has the best performance characteristics and moisture resistance.
Installation sequence
To build a high-quality and durable floor, you need to know how to calculate the thickness and frequency of beams. After this, it remains to calculate the total need for building materials and get to work. When making calculations, you should be guided by SNiP. If doubts arise, they should be interpreted in the direction of increasing hardness and strength.
Arrangement of interfloor floor slab according to frame walls carried out in the following sequence:
- Cross beams are screwed onto the harness. If the purlins are longer than 400 cm, then glued boards should be used. When making long runs, the boards are fastened together with an overlay of 75-80 cm.
- Logs are attached to the beams and to the frame. Fixation is carried out with long nails and metal corners. The interval between the lags is 50-58 cm, depending on what material is chosen as insulation.
- The lower part of the frame is covered with membrane film. Sheets of plywood, OSB or untreated are nailed to the boards wooden surface. This will be the basis for insulation and finishing of the ceiling.
- The frame contains insulation. All cracks are carefully sealed. The recommended thickness of thermal insulation is 10 cm. A vapor barrier film is secured on top of the insulation with a construction stapler.
- The frame filled with insulation is covered with boards or wood boards- they will be the subfloor of the second floor.
The final stage is fine finishing floor. The choice of material is determined by the purpose and style of decoration of the entire room, the taste and financial capabilities of its owners.
The foundation of a house consists not only of walls and roof, but also includesceilings in a frame house. It must meet special requirements and take into account many features. At first glance, it may seem that all ceilings are the same and should also be performed using the same technology - but this is a misconception. For example, the design of basement floors is constantly subject to sharp changes not only in temperature, but also in humidity, as well as weather conditions. Accordingly, this ceiling must be erected taking into account all influencing factors in order to reduce possible damage as much as possible. The floors between floors must be durable and have adequate sound insulation to ensure the most comfortable living possible. At the same time, the attic ceiling serves as thermal insulation to keep the most moisture in the house. optimal temperature. In connection with all these points, the requirements for the construction technique of each floor vary somewhat.
Types of floors:
- basement
- interfloor
- attic
interfloor ceiling in a frame house
The specialist talks about wooden floor:
Good afternoon, dear frame builders!
I didn’t find a similar topic by searching, so I decided to create it myself.
Often the question flashes on the forum, how to do, how to block the span some kind of length. Sometimes the questioner simply does not have enough experience, sometimes some kind of hint or fresh thought is enough for him, sometimes he needs help choosing from several options, sometimes he needs to do an educational program and warn the person against dangerous mistakes. All this is scattered on different topics, and finding a problem similar to yours is quite difficult.
Let's help each other here on roofing issues, then you can look at some knowledge base in one place and ask your question about covering a frame house.
Minimum information to ask a question:
1) House plan.
2) Span dimensions
3) What will happen at the top - what is the load on the floor
4) What is the difficulty with this overlap, what would you like and why it doesn’t work out.I need help optimizing the flooring in a frame house.
Here is the main topic about my construction:
At this stage, the USP is done, I am drawing a frame design in SketchUp.Here's the layout:
So far the frame of the 1st floor has been pre-rendered:
The pitch of the studs is 500 (optimized for OSB, since the insulation is ecowool, inside there will be plasterboard along the horizontal lathing). Yes, and step 600 seems to me a bit too much for 1.5 storey building. I want it to be strong)
Racks external walls- 150x40, internal - 100x40. I plan to sheathe OSB, so no miters.Here is the design of a typical wall:
Maybe someone catches your eye, write.The plan shows that the house has one problem area- living room, span 4900 mm. There is also an opening for the stairs in this room, size 1100x2350 mm.
Task: To make a ceiling for the first floor, taking into account that it will be higher residential attic, and there will be 40mm screeds on the floor.
Due to my limited experience in designing such structures, I was unable to solve this problem quickly. More precisely, it turned out, and most likely it will work, but I feel that this is not very best option with a huge waste of material:
In the sketch, red lines indicate the walls, blue lines indicate the beams, and the yellow square is the supporting pillar that holds the staircase landing and supports the ceiling.Beam spacing is 400 mm, beam size is 50x250.
This step and size (according to the calculator) is needed to cover a large span in the living room.
But it is redundant on other spans.
And, although the supply might not be superfluous, it is difficult to find logs of this size to cut 50x250 boards in such quantities (at least in our region). And I didn’t want to throw money away if I could do it cheaper and the result would be good.What exits do I see:
1) Reformat the entire floor, radically changing the direction of the beams, their sections and pitch, possibly adding additional load-bearing elements. Here I need your help, because I don’t have a good option in my head yet.
2) Change the pitch of the beams, adjusting it to the spans. Then the ends of the beams will not meet so beautifully in the middle of the house, they will overlap and burst apart with breeches.
3) Change the height of the beams. Then it is not clear how to make the floor on the second floor the same height. In principle, you can replace some of the beams with 200-size beams, and place a 50 mm thick board flat in the places of support in order to reach the same height as the 250-size beams. Then the breeches will be sewn up beautifully.
4) maybe there is another option?Thanks in advance to everyone who cares
The interfloor ceiling in a frame house is not only the basis for the floor or ceiling. It brings everything together vertical structures into a rigid unified system. Therefore, the installation of interfloor ceilings is no less important stage of construction than, for example, the construction.
Work order
After installing the bottom trim boards, the installation of interfloor floors on the first floor begins. Floor beams are made up of several smooth, high-quality boards or LVL beams are used.
Each beam rests on the concrete foundation wall by at least 100 mm. Its end is adjacent to the bottom trim board. The width of the niche for support should be 13 mm greater than the width of the beam. Niches for supporting beams are laid according to the project at the stage.
The floor joists rest on the floor beams. The distance between the lags depends on the platform sheathing material (subfloor). For example, if they are sheathed with plywood, the lag pitch is taken as a multiple of the size of the plywood slabs.
Eat constructive solution, in which the floor joists are adjacent to the end of the floor beam. In this case, they rest on an additional console nailed to the beam (Figure 1). Another option for attaching the joist to the end of the beam is using metal hangers (Figure 2).
For the manufacture of logs, only smooth boards are chosen. The use of small “sabers” is allowed. They are installed with the bend upward.
First, the joist is installed in the center of the span so that there are no shifts in the structure during installation. If the length of the log consists of two boards, the overlap at the junction must be at least 75 mm. The overlap is fixed with nails. The lag is attached to the beam and to the strapping board using nails.
When all the logs are installed and secured, check the accuracy of the installation, the horizontalness of the surface so that there are no problems at the stage, and nail the outer perimeter board.
To strengthen the floor structure with composite joists, blocks are placed between them. They are made from scraps of boards, metal rods or wooden strips fastened crosswise. Wood planks must be filed under the right angle. Usually several types of blocks are made at once.
Then they begin laying the subfloor from plywood or OSB boards with a thickness of 15-21 mm. When using OSB boards with a special tongue-and-groove edge, it is not necessary to install blocks between the joists. Plywood without a special edge is nailed to joists and blocks. The plywood slabs are placed in a checkerboard pattern, with the long side across the floor joist.
On lateral surface The logs are carefully applied with glue. The slab is laid, being careful not to smear the glue on the joist. A gap of 2-3 mm is left between the plates so that it can expand freely as the humidity and air temperature in the room increases. The slabs are secured to the joists with wood screws or rough nails.
If the installation of the wall frame is postponed for some time, the subfloor slabs are protected from precipitation - either the plywood is treated with a special water-repellent compound, or the platform is covered plastic film so that the water flows to the ground.
Ceiling above the first floor
In a frame house, the ceiling above the first floor, in addition to its main function - to be part of the floor and ceiling - becomes an important stabilizing element. If the first floor has already been completed, then after installing the interfloor ceiling, you can remove the temporary jibs supporting the walls.
There is not much difference between the floor structures of different floors (1st and 2nd). They consist of the same structural elements. But in interfloor covering frame houses, LVL beams are more often used. After all, they can cover a long-span space without intermediate interior walls.
LVL beam consists of layers of veneer coniferous species, glued with formaldehyde glue. It happens that from several standard beams, fastened with wood grouse, a beam is assembled that can withstand heavy loads. But even such a prefabricated beam can be installed by two or three people.
Beams rest on external and internal load-bearing walls and secured with temporary jibs and nails. After installation of LVL beams, floor joists are installed from edged boards. They are fastened with nails to the outer perimeter board and to top harness load-bearing walls.
Depth of support on carrier wooden wall is at least 38 mm. The overlap between the joists, when resting on the internal wall, must be at least 75 mm.
The logs are placed above the frame racks of the internal walls. When attaching joists to the end of LVL beams, steel hangers are used (Figure 2).
If the house does not have a second floor and an attic, then the overlap of the 1st floor becomes part ceiling. Then the roof rafters are nailed to the ceiling joists. The frame is ready for roof construction.
One of the most important technological stages in the construction of a frame house is the installation of the floor. Traditional option, the best way fitting into the decor of such a building is a wooden floor - an environmentally friendly design, which, unlike concrete floors, the frame of the building can withstand without any problems.
Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the sequence of flooring in a frame house. Having studied the recommendations given, you will successfully cope with the implementation of the necessary activities on your own, avoiding the need to attract third-party experts and the associated costs.
First of all you must choose suitable wood. In the selection process, take into account the climate in the location of the house, the expected intensity of the load on the structure, the available budget, as well as the operating features of the room being equipped.
For greater ease of perception, the key criteria for evaluating materials and recommendations for their use are presented in the form of a table.
Table. Choosing material for flooring in a frame house
| Evaluation criterion | Explanations and recommendations |
|---|---|
| Material of manufacture | Coniferous wood. Relatively a budget option, optimally suited for use in medium and small area. Despite the relatively low cost, it is characterized by very good indicators of durability and reliability. Oak, aspen. Traditional representatives of the middle and high price segments. Key performance characteristics are noticeably superior to those of its closest “competitors”. Aspen, due to its highest environmental friendliness, is perfect for use in bedrooms and children's rooms. |
| Humidity | For installing floors in a frame house, especially if we're talking about O living rooms, only high-quality dried wood is suitable. Wet material as it dries, it inevitably decreases, which leads to the formation of gaps in the coating. |
| External condition | Make sure that the wood does not have cracks, suspicious spots, splits and other similar defects. Refrain from using such material, even if you are offered a big discount. |
For determining required quantity material, calculate the area of the room. Additionally, add about 5-10% to the calculated value for the reserve. It is most convenient to lay flooring using boards 2 m long. If possible, buy elements from the same batch, manufactured and processed under the same conditions. This will ensure that there are no differences in color, texture and other external evaluation criteria of the boards.
The most preferred material for arranging flooring in a frame house is edged tongue and groove board. The main advantage of the application of this material comes down to the absence of the need for finishing grinding, which makes it possible to significantly reduce labor and time costs.
What could be the floor of a wooden house: a review of existing options
The following materials are most often used for flooring:
- parquet;
- glued parquet board. The material costs less than regular parquet, without having any significant external differences, but slightly inferior in a number of performance characteristics;
- solid parquet board;
- solid wood board.
Preparatory work
The technology for installing the floor in the building under consideration involves the creation of a two-layer structure consisting of a base and directly wooden materials. Traditionally, flooring is laid on joists or on top of floor beams. When choosing a specific method, you need to take into account, first of all, the features of the room being equipped and its location.
Before use, all wooden components are impregnated with special antiseptic and fire retardant agents. The base of the future floor structure must be waterproofed. Penofol is perfect for this job. If you do not have a sufficient budget, you can also use plastic film.
The procedure for arranging a subfloor in a frame house
Preparation of supports
If your frame is being built on columnar foundation, any additional preparatory measures with the exception of arranging waterproofing of the supports (usually roofing felt is used for this) will not have to be carried out. In the case of building a house on another supporting structure, start working by arranging the mentioned pillars. At the discretion of the owner, the supports are either built from brick or cast from concrete, taking into account the design height of the future floor. The spacing of the pillars should not exceed 2 m; on average, an 80-100-centimeter pitch is maintained.
As an example, instructions are given for arranging such concrete supports. The procedure is as follows:
- using a drill, holes are prepared in the ground with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of about 100 cm;
- Asbestos-cement pipes with a length of about 130 cm and an internal diameter of 100 mm are placed in the holes at a level;
- the space in the pits around the pipes is filled with sand, which is spilled with water and compacted;
- poured into pipes through a funnel mortar, prepared from 1 share of cement, 4 shares of sand, about 5 shares of crushed stone and water;
- Special plates are installed in the pipes to fix the lags.
Installation of logs
Before installing the logs, you need to make the bottom trim.
If you don't have it ready yet, follow these steps:
- fix the bottom trim boards to the foundation. The elements are installed on the edge. The most commonly used boards are 15x5 cm in size. If necessary, you can change these indicators to suit the conditions of your situation;
- connect the boards of the inner bottom trim in the corners using screws;
- Attach the boards of the middle part of the lower trim to the inner boards using screws;
- Attach the outer ones to the middle boards. Fixation is also done using screws;
- Plane the top of the trim boards using an electric planer. Make sure the structure is level using a level;
- mark the locations for future installation of logs;
- armed electric jigsaw, make grooves in the harness for installing lags.
Next you need to lay the joists. You can use boards for this either wooden beam dimensions 10x5 cm, 15x5 cm or other dimensions, focusing on the operating characteristics of the room and the expected level of loads on the floor structure. The logs are fixed using any suitable fasteners: screws, dowels, nails, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.
Attach to the joists wooden slats dimensions 3x3 cm (more is possible). To do this, you can use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners. The bars will serve as supports for the ends of the boards of the floor being installed. For greater convenience of further installation of the flooring, connect the logs with transverse bridges from a similar beam/board. Attach the lintels, maintaining a 125-centimeter or other step in accordance with the dimensions of the flooring elements used.
Tighten the boards of the bottom trim using nails, adhering to a checkerboard pattern and a 0.5-0.8-meter step.
Important note! Traditionally in technology frame construction First, the subfloor is laid out, after which walls and partitions are erected. But under certain circumstances or due to the owner’s personal considerations, the order in which the mentioned technological measures are performed may change.
Installation of rough flooring
On top of the previously mentioned support rails measuring 3x3 cm are laid OSB boards(necessarily with moisture-resistant properties) or sheet plywood. The latter, as a rule, is not attached to the support rails, but directly on top of the joists. And if in the case of OSB no difficulties usually arise, then the installation of plywood flooring must be approached with knowledge of a number of important nuances. Rules and recommendations for correct installation Plywood decking is detailed in the following table.
Table. Rules for installing a plywood subfloor
| Requirements | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Laying scheme | Sheets of plywood need to be mounted staggered, i.e. Each new row should be offset relative to the previous one by approximately half of the sheet element. |
| Sheet thickness | When choosing the thickness of plywood, be guided by the installation step of the support joists. These parameters are interrelated, i.e. you can think about this point even before installing the supports. So, if the logs are installed at a distance of 30-45 cm, use plywood with a thickness of 16-18 mm or OSB-3 boards with a thickness of 18 mm. If you install supports with a pitch of 50 cm or more (the maximum value traditionally does not exceed 62.5 cm), buy sheets with a thickness of 18-21 mm or slabs with a thickness of 22 mm. |
| Fastening the deck | A comprehensive method is suitable for attaching plywood, which involves the combined use of glue and self-tapping screws or rough nails. Self-tapping screws will ensure the main fixation of the sheets, and the glue will additionally eliminate the appearance of squeaks. Plywood is attached around the perimeter and in the middle (diagonally). Place fasteners along the edge of the sheet in 15-centimeter increments; in the middle part, it is recommended to maintain a 30-centimeter gap. |
| Gaps between sheets | Plywood is laid with 2-3 mm gaps. To ensure equal spacing, insert nails of the appropriate diameter between the sheets. After installing the flooring, you will remove them. |
A layer of water vapor barrier material is placed in the space between the joists. It is most convenient to use a construction stapler to attach the film.
The construction work is almost complete. There are only a few final steps left to complete, namely:
- lay in the cells of the floor frame mineral wool or other selected thermal insulation material;
Vapor barrier
- lay boards about 30 mm thick across the joists. Maintain a 40-60 cm step, depending on the thickness of the boards selected for the subsequent flooring and the expected level of loads on the base. For fastening wooden elements You can use self-tapping screws or any other suitable fastener. Thanks to this additional sheathing, the necessary ventilation gap will be created;
- lay a tongue-and-groove board 25-35 mm thick or a regular board 40-50 mm thick on top of the sheathing;
- install the selected finishing floor covering.
Now you have all the information you need to independent arrangement floor structures in a frame house. Follow the guidelines you have studied and everything will definitely work out.
Plank floor in a frame house
Good luck!
Video - Floor installation in a frame house
Video - How the floor is arranged in a frame house
