Hip roof- This is a colorful and architecturally unusual design. Due to the absence of gables and relatively short beams, such a roof is considered more economical, but at the same time its construction is quite difficult to implement and requires careful calculations and certain skills. If all conditions are met, the result is an aesthetically attractive and reliable building element, and the slope of the slopes efficiently drains rain and melt water. However, without experience you should not undertake the installation of this roof - it is better to entrust the job to professionals.
Features of a hip roof
About the appearance of this option hip roof its name says - it really resembles a tent. The base is usually a square or rectangle, and the roof itself resembles an envelope. The slopes have the configuration of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which meet at one point. A hipped roof can be multifaceted or symmetrically round. But the main feature is the same for all types - strict symmetry. If it is not there, then the roof will be an ordinary multi-slope one. Another difference between a hip roof is the absence of a ridge on top. It is replaced by a central support (if layered rafters are used) or the top of a hanging truss.
A hip roof will provide the house with a beautiful appearance and reliable protection.
The advantages of a hip roof are:
- Comparative Savings building materials.
- Structural strength and durability.
- Resistant to bad weather and strong winds.
- Good heating on sunny days.
- Presentable and exotic appearance of the building.
- Self-cleaning from snow.
Disadvantages of hip roofs:
- Difficulty in calculation, installation and repair.
- Reduced attic size due to thermal insulation.
- Large waste of top finishing materials (especially for metal tiles).
Types of hip roofs
Hip roofs, depending on the design, are divided into the following types:
- broken line - with indirect slopes consisting of two parts;
A sloping hip roof is most preferable for arranging an attic
- with a bay window or yandovaya. Yandova is usually called the roof of a bay window, and the main one can be hip, gable or hip;
The bay window is equipped with a yandow roof
- attic - it can look like a broken line or the attic windows are located on remote consoles.
House with sloping roof- This additional area and an interesting design solution
The hip roof frame consists of the following elements:
Hip roof design
At the heart of the structure there must be a mauerlat (a powerful beam or log), knocked down into a solid frame according to the shape of the base and laid on top of the armored belt. The entire rafter system is tied to the mauerlat. It looks like four inclined beams with a cross section of 50 by 100 mm, fastened in the center of the roof (the size of the beam depends on the dimensions and weight of the future roof). If the house is made of stone or brick, the Mauerlat acts as top harness wall panel, V wooden buildings- the upper crown of the log house. Mauerlat must be waterproofed (for example, with roofing felt). Then it is fixed to the inner upper part of the prepared and leveled walls.
The ridge assembly of a hip roof is connected at one point
The construction of a hipped roof requires the use of a large amount wooden elements. Before use, they should be treated with a fire-fighting and antiseptic agent.
A hipped roof is not suitable for the construction of buildings with a bay window, since its box shape is square. Therefore, a half-hip roof type is usually used.
Types of rafter systems for hip roofs
According to its structure, the rafter system of the future hip roof can be either layered or hanging. The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that its beams rest directly on the walls. It is most often used for large spans, when there is no other support and no supports are provided. With this option, a horizontal bursting force is generated, and to reduce it, puffs are used.
The process of building and repairing such a roof is complex, so preference is usually given to a layered rafter system. It is more convenient from the point of view of installation and operation, and there is practically no load on the walls. A roof with a slope of no more than 40 degrees is suitable for its installation. For installation, a load-bearing internal wall or additional supports in the center of the roof are required. In this case, struts on the walls are not needed, since the roof has supports at the peak and on the rafter legs.
Thanks to additional supports, the layered rafter system is more convenient for installation and operation
The permissible span size is about 4.5 m. If it is larger and it is impossible to limit it to one central support, then struts are installed.
Struts are supports for rafter legs
Elements of the truss structure
The rafter system of a hip roof includes the following main elements:
- Mauerlat - supporting frame for the lower part of the rafters;
- diagonal or slanted rafters installed at the corners of the main frame;
- narozhniki - shortened rafters attached to the mowers;
- racks and struts - supports for rafter legs;
- beds - laid on brick columns as supports for struts and racks;
- crossbars for resting the rafter legs against each other near the peak;
- purlins - beams parallel to the Mauerlat (used depending on the type of structure and existing supports);
- trusses - additional supports to give rigidity to the building.
Rafters made from metal trusses have great strength and withstand significant loads, which makes the building more durable. Metal trusses can be used for more than 100 years. They are usually used if the length of the slopes exceeds 10 meters. It is easier to assemble such a structure than wooden frame, since you can purchase elements ready for installation. The only disadvantage of metal trusses is that they are more difficult to insulate. Condensation appears on them, which has a destructive effect on roofing pie. Therefore, wood is preferable for residential buildings.
You can also combine metal and wood rafters. But at the same time, the wooden parts must be well treated with antiseptic agents.
Metal rafters are more often used for industrial buildings
Calculation of the angle of inclination and area of a hip roof
For calculations, you need to know only two parameters: the angle of inclination of the roof and the length of the wall of the structure along its outer edge. Since a roof rafter system of this type in most cases consists of a certain number of isosceles triangles, the angle formed by the slopes is calculated. It is necessary to calculate the area of one figure and multiply by their total number. This way the area of the structure will be known, from which you can determine the amount needed roofing material. When the base is a rectangle and is planned hipped roof, then first the area of the triangle (slope) is calculated. Next, the area of overhangs - trapezoid-like cornices - is calculated. The minimum overhang value is 30 cm.
- The length of the central rafter C is calculated using the formula of a right triangle, where the rafter plays the role of the hypotenuse, half the length of the house wall a is the known leg, α is the inclination angle of the slope: C = a/2 * cosα.
- The length of the slanted rafter is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem, where one of the legs is a/2, the second is C. And L (length of the slanted rafter) is the square root of the sum of the squares of a/2 and C: L = √((a/2) 2 + C 2).
- The height of the roof or central vertical pillar is also calculated using the Pythagorean theorem. The area of one slope is calculated by the formula: S = C * a/2.
Roof calculations are carried out using formulas for simple geometric shapes
Video: review of the calculator for calculating a hip roof
Choosing a roof angle
Typically, when choosing an angle, the following criteria are taken into account:
- Climatic conditions. With a large wind load, the slopes should be flat, since the lower the slope, the more reliable the main structure.
- Amount of precipitation. The more precipitation, the higher the slope must be so that they roll off the roof in time.
- Roofing material. Each type has its own criteria for the slope of the slope.
The higher the angle of inclination, the larger the roof area. This should be taken into account when making calculations. Roofs with a slope of 25 degrees are considered to be the most wind-resistant.
Assembling a hip roof: step-by-step instructions
Before you take on such a difficult task as building a hip roof, you need to get a detailed understanding of the principle of its assembly. The rafter system must be installed before the ceiling is installed in the room. Sequence of work:
- All dimensions and quantities of materials are designed and calculated.
- Components of the required size and characteristics are purchased. All ridge elements must be made of the same type of wood. Intermediate rafters will have to withstand a significant load, so they must be strong. Suitable material conifers wood, as they are more resistant to external influences.
- In the case of a brick or stone house, a screed is poured along the top of the walls into which studs are installed to secure the Mauerlat.
- Roofing material is laid on the dried screed.
- Pre-assembly of the base of the entire structure occurs at the bottom. The beds are attached to the mauerlat. The elements are checked to ensure they fit all sizes, then they are disassembled again and then taken upstairs, where they are reassembled. The mauerlat is attached to the upper part of the walls to the studs secured in the screed with collets and nuts. After assembly, ladders for moving are laid on top. It is not recommended to make inserts directly into the Mauerlat - so as not to weaken it.
Rafters to the Mauerlat can be attached in a rigid or sliding way
- The puffs are laid - first the central ones are installed, and then all the rest are installed on the sides of them. Next, a vertical stand is mounted, which should be located strictly in the center. It is fixed with two jibs. After installing the rack, it’s the turn of the diagonal rafters.
Diagonal legs rest on a support post or the tops of adjacent rafters
- The central rafters are attached to the rack from above, and to the Mauerlat from below using metal plates and corners. A cord is stretched from the top of the support to the corners of the support beam, along which the slopes are installed. Fastening at the peak must be done with a double insert. During the installation of the rafters, a strip is attached to their lower edge, which will act as a stop and prevent them from sliding down to the connection. On the sides of the rafters there are fastenings for splices or square beams. After preparation, the rafters rest against the end of the central support and are sawed diagonally. This is usually done with a power saw. The rest of the rafters are installed in the same way. If their length is more than 4.5 m, then they are additionally reinforced with racks. It is important to attach them well to the load-bearing walls of the house. To do this, reinforcement is driven into the walls, and the rafters are screwed with thick 5–6 mm wire (for wooden house metal staples are used). Rafters and extensions should extend beyond the building by 300–500 mm. This eaves overhang provides good drainage of precipitation. A wind board is placed on the overhangs.
For better protection from precipitation, eaves overhangs should protrude by at least 30 centimeters
- All that remains is to mount the support posts to give rigidity to the structure. They are attached under the spigots (in the middle). It is recommended to install a support stand under each sprig whose length is more than a meter. Diagonal connections are made from 25–45 cm boards. The cornice is hemmed with boards, moisture-resistant plywood or other materials.
The cornice can be hemmed with boards, plywood, clapboard, corrugated sheets
- After installing the rafter part, you can fill the sheathing, arrange waterproofing and install the proposed roofing.
Installation of the top roofing covering on a wooden sheathing
Video: assembling a hip roof frame
Forming a roofing pie
The roofing pie for a hip roof is arranged in the same way as for any other. If the roof is cold, then its pie looks like this:
- rafters;
- sheathing;
- plywood or OSB;
- lining;
- outer covering.
Thermal insulation is needed if there is a attic room. After the insulation, a membrane is attached vapor barrier film. The materials are fixed on top with slats to avoid sagging, and drywall or any other finishing material is screwed on top of the slats.
When the frame is completely ready, it can be sheathed. Rolled waterproofing is rolled out overlapping from bottom to top along the rafters. They shoot it with a construction stapler and nail it with counter battens to the rafter legs. The choice of lathing depends on the coating - under soft roof you need a solid one made of plywood or boards, but a sparse arrangement of elements is also suitable for a rigid one. The roofing covering is laid on the sheathing, the installation of which is consistent with the selected material.
When constructing a roofing pie, it is important to follow the sequence of layers
Choosing an external covering for a hip roof
The external finish of the roof can be anything, but when choosing, the steepness of the slopes is taken into account:
- from 12 to 80 degrees - metal profile coatings, ondulin, flexible tiles;
- from 30 degrees - ceramic tiles.
The top covering on hipped roofs is laid in a special way - from the middle. To determine the middle, a marking cord is laid from the peak to the Mauerlat. When making calculations, you need to add at least 15% of the margin for materials that overlap, and 20% of the margin for waste.
Choice outer covering wide enough
Additional elements for a hip roof
The roof ridge is the upper part of the roof, located along the edges of the intersection of the slopes.
The ridge performs both a protective and decorative function.
The main purpose of the ridge is to bridge the gaps between the slopes and protect the roof space from moisture, debris and insects. The secondary function is decorative. A properly installed ridge strip will also be the key to good under-roof ventilation, because it is through the structural gap between the roof and the ridge plane that air exchange occurs.
Fasteners
In addition to a large number of wood elements, you will need metal fastenings- anchor bolts, wood screws and nails. Professionals advise choosing floating mounts. This applies to connections of rafters with the Mauerlat. Thus, the roof will not be affected by the natural shrinkage of a house made of wood or logs.
To install a hip roof, in addition to wooden ones, metal fasteners will be required
Installation of aerators
Lack of roof ventilation can lead to dire consequences. Dampness accumulates under the roof, and the roofing material begins to deteriorate and leak. To avoid such problems, special ventilation ducts, or aerators. Thanks to them, air circulates freely under the roof, excess moisture evaporates and the roofing cake remains dry.
When arranging an attic, aerators are not only recommended, but also necessary. They are usually made of durable plastic. Aerators can be ridge (continuous) or point.
The ridge is installed along the entire length of the ridge and looks like a corner element with holes covered with barriers from debris and insects. Its installation is quite simple and is recommended for roofs with a slope of 12–45 degrees.
The ridge aerator is installed along the entire length of the ridge
The point aerator is mounted in separate areas - on slopes or ridges at a distance of 0.5–0.8 m from the horizontal ribs. It reminds ventilation pipe with protective cap. It is connected to the roof by a flat base or skirt.
Building a hip roof is not an easy task. Inaccuracies in calculations or lack of knowledge will be fatal when building such a complex structure. Therefore, before starting work, you should soberly assess your capabilities and carefully study the equipment. And then the result will be satisfactory.
Some owners of country housing seem too banal and uninteresting, and they begin to search for more original options. These include a tent structure that looks extremely interesting in appearance, as if it came straight out of an illustration in a history textbook or a book of children's fairy tales.
Despite its apparent simplicity, the rafter system of a hip roof is one of the most complex to construct. Taking on the construction of such a structure on your own, without having experience in such work, will be very risky. However, for those who want to opt for just such a design, it will be useful to obtain information on the structure of the system, its main components, and how to carry out basic calculations. It is in this context that this publication will be constructed. We hope that it will help you understand the nuances of a tent rafter system, realistically assess its complexity and the possibility of self-installation.
What is a tent rafter system?
In fact, a hipped roof geometrically represents a “classical” pyramid, that is, a figure with a polygon at the base and faces that are isosceles triangles converging at a single vertex.
In private construction, a pyramid with a base in the form of a quadrangle is most often used, although for extensions (turrets, bay windows, etc.) or light garden buildings(gazebos) it is practiced to build more complex structures, which may have a regular hexagon or octagon (sometimes even larger) at their base.
In this publication, the emphasis will be placed on the hipped hipped roof. Variations are possible here too. A “classic” design is considered to be a pyramidal structure resting on a square base, with the apex located on a perpendicular passing through the point of intersection of the diagonals of the base. In this case, all four slopes will be absolutely congruent triangles located at the same angle of inclination.
The diagram shows a pyramid with a square at the base - this is what we will consider in the future. You will have to return to this drawing more than once throughout the presentation.
It is quite possible to use a tent scheme on a rectangular building whose length exceeds its width. However, in practice this is used infrequently - due to the unnecessary complication of both calculations and installation. With this option, the slopes resting on a shorter wall become longer and have a smaller angle of inclination to the horizon, that is, external loads for them you already have to calculate individually. It is much more suitable for rectangular bases - it is in many ways similar to a tent base, but is better adapted to such conditions.
The hip roof shape provides many significant advantages:
- A house with such a roof stands out very advantageously against the background of standard gable roofs, possessing a unique appeal.
- In terms of its aerodynamic qualities, that is, its ability to withstand wind loads, especially during squalls or even hurricane gusts, it is among pitched roofs, perhaps, has no equal. Moreover, the lifting component of the wind load is minimized - the force trying to tear the roof upward.
- The unique pyramidal shape contributes to the uniform distribution of all external and internal loads on the roof system and the building as a whole.
- At proper insulation roof slopes, such a roof - optimal solution from an energy saving point of view.
- At optimal choice the steepness of the roof slopes will not pose any special problems.
The disadvantage, in addition to the certain complexity of the design, is that four identical slopes seriously “eat up” the volume attic space, which complicates the organization of “inhabited” area in it. To create residential attic, you have to sharply increase the slope of the roof and resort to “inserting” additional windows and superstructures. It is clear that taking on the calculation and construction of such a complex structure on your own is simply pointless, since it requires highly professional Architectural Engineering and installation.
The main elements of a hip rafter system
Let's consider the basic structure of the rafter system of a hip roof. To do this, first let’s take a completely abstract house, the walls of which form a square, and try to fit such a roof to it.
In the context of this article, we are not particularly interested in the roof and walls. Let’s hide them from sight in order to be left “face to face” with, in fact, the very design of the rafter system. Well, then let's look at it in detail.
The walls are hidden from view, but the mauerlat is left (item 1). This is a powerful beam, which is secured with a belt along the upper end of the walls - it is on it that all the rafters will rest. Unlike, for example, gable roof, in our case, must necessarily be a closed frame, rigidly connected - the strength and stability of the entire rafter structure directly depends on this.
From the corners of the mauerlat upward to the center, to the ridge unit (pos. 3), the ribs of the pyramid converge - their role is played by slanted rafters (pos. 2). These are the longest and most loaded of all other rafter legs, and usually the most “powerful” lumber is used for their manufacture - this will be discussed below. In the pyramid drawing they correspond to the segments [KA], [KV], [KS] and [KD]. The length of the layered rafters in the same diagram is designated Lн.
From the center of each side, central rafters run to the same ridge assembly (item 4). They determine the height of the isosceles triangle of each slope. In the drawing, this is, for example, the segment [KE] (rafter length - Lt). In geometry, there is a separate name for this element of the pyramid - apothem.
Finally, from each slanted rafter leg, shortened rafters or flanges (pos. 5), installed at a certain pitch, extend in both directions to the mauerlat. Their number will depend on the overall dimensions of the entire system.
By the way, often, in order not to “overload” the ridge assembly with connections, they refuse to install central rafters and install only the ridges, placing them symmetrically to the apothem.
This diagram shows an option in which all rafters, without exception, from the rafters to the shortest rafter, are made with a protrusion beyond the Mauerlat - to create the necessary eaves overhang. But in the future, all calculations will be carried out for the “net” length - from the ridge bridle to the mauerlat, and the amount of elongation will be calculated separately, depending on the planned width of the overhang and the angle of steepness of the slope.
rafter mount
Very often they do this - powerful rafter beam ends at the mauerlat, and the cornice light is provided by increasing the length due to special parts - fillies made of thinner boards. This allows you to achieve considerable savings on lumber.
The diagram showed one of the most simple circuits, when the slanted rafters are made according to a hanging pattern and are completely balanced. Let's be honest - this is very rare in reality. In practice, it is necessary to resort to installing additional reinforcing elements that ensure the strength and stability of the rafter system structure.
Firstly, the rafters can be installed using a layered system, that is, supported by a central post. The stand can rest on the capital interior wall(if there is such a possibility), or on a bed laid in the center - a powerful beam resting on opposite external walls building.
1 – slanted rafters;
2 – central post (headstock);
3 – puffs (crossbars).
By the way, when constructing light buildings, for example, gazebos, sometimes the central post is located along the entire height, from the foundation (floor) to the ridge unit, and serves as a kind of “interior” item.
Another option is that the base for the rack is horizontal tie rods (crossbars) connecting opposite rafters. These puffs can be located at the bottom, closer to, or approximately in the middle of the height of the “pyramid”. Sometimes such crossbars serve as the basis for lining the roof of an attic space.
The figure shows an example when slanted rafter legs (pos. 1) are connected diagonally with ties (pos. 5). At the intersection of the tie rods, a central support is mounted (item 4). All rafters, including the central ones (pos. 2) are connected to a support (headstock), thereby forming a ridge unit (pos. 3).
Often the center post is not used at all. On small roofs, structural rigidity is ensured simply by reliable fastening of the central and slanted rafters on the mauerlat and in the ridge assembly. In the ridge, the rafters are adjusted to each other by cuts at a certain angle, and then this connection is reinforced with metal plates. Another option is to use a central insert element to which the rafter legs are attached.
metal tiles
But with large lengths of rafters, sometimes - even if the rafters are too long, they still require reinforcement. For this purpose, additional system elements may be used.
This illustration shows one of the options. In the center of the square formed by the mauerlat (item 1) there is a frame (item 2) embedded. As in the usual scheme– installed rafters (pos. 3) and central (pos. 4) and rafters (pos. 5).
At the bottom of the slanted rafter legs, cranial bars (item 6) are reinforced - they serve for more reliable support for the installed spigots.
Both the central legs and the spouts are connected to the opposite, symmetrically located parts with the help of ties (item 7). The ties of the lower row, to avoid deflection in the center, rest on the bench, and at the same time serve as a support for the upper row, perpendicular to them.
From the ties to each central rafter leg and to the spouts there are vertical posts (item 8).
Instead of vertical posts (or together with them), struts can be used - supporting elements located at an angle to the horizontal. This can be convenient when the main load needs to be transferred to one central point (for example, a beam or a major lintel inside a building), and not distributed over the tightening. The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45÷60°. They find application if the length of the rafter legs exceeds 4.5 meters. Such additional support points make it possible to reduce the cross-section of lumber used for the manufacture of rafters, that is, to both lighten and reduce the cost of the entire system structure.
The illustration shows two options. On the left is a combined one, in which both the stand (item 2) and the struts (item 3) are attached to the bed (item 1). In the right picture, we did without a stand, and only two struts rest against the bed, going up to the symmetrical rafter legs.
The diagram also shows connecting parts - metal dowels (item 4) and steel brackets (item 5).
As already mentioned, the longest and most concentrated loads are the slanted (diagonal) rafter legs. Not only are they usually thicker than others, but they often have to be additionally supported to prevent sagging or torsion. For this, the same struts extending from the central support, or a special system unit called a truss support, can be used.
This unit is a truss beam (pos. 9) that cuts into the mauerlat at the corner, and from which a stand (pos. 10) extends vertically upward, supporting the slanted rafter leg. Sometimes, on large roofs, it is necessary to install a truss on a truss, that is, to strengthen the vertical post with struts.
There are other options for installing and strengthening the rafter system of a hip roof - many craftsmen use their own techniques, developed and proven over the years. But the basic principle still remains the same as shown above.
Now it is necessary to consider a block of issues related to the linear dimensions of the main structural parts, the cross-section of lumber necessary for their manufacture, and other geometric parameters of the system being created. In a word, you need to dive into the calculations.
Carrying out basic calculations of the rafter system of a hip roof
Carrying out the proposed calculations will help the owners decide in advance on the main characteristics of the future roof and required quantity materials. Calculations must be carried out in a certain sequence, since most of the parameters are closely interrelated, and, one might say, follow from one another.
The height of the “pyramid”, the slope angle of the slopes and the planned roofing of the hip roof
This group of parameters is highlighted in first place. The listed characteristics are closely related to each other and will be decisive for the rest of the calculations.
Why is it necessary to know the steepness of the slopes in advance? Yes, if only because every owner sees in advance the roof of his future home, “dressed” in one or another roofing covering that he prefers. And when choosing coatings, whether you like it or not, you have to comply with certain requirements - each material has its own maximum permissible limits for the minimum slope.
The fact that the slope depends on the height of the top of the “tent” (and vice versa) probably does not need to be explained - as one parameter increases, so does the second. But the dependence here is not linear, but tangential. Let us turn to the diagram of the “pyramid”.
The height of the ridge unit is indicated N- this is a segment . This vertex itself in horizontal projection lies exactly in the middle of any of the sides of the square forming the base. It turns out to be a right triangle KFE, leg which is known is half the width (length) of the building [AV]. Roof slope angle – α . It’s easy to determine the height:
H = 0.5 × [AB] ×tgα
This calculation will be easier to do using the built-in calculator:
Calculator for the relationship between the height of the top of a hip roof and the roof pitch angle
At one stage of the project to build a private house outside the city, you will think about the shape of the roof. The hip or hip roof is the most popular nowadays. Its appearance and design resemble a tent. This roof has its pros and cons. For installation and installation of this you do not have to hire specialists. You can easily assemble the roof frame with your own hands. To do this, you need to be able to make calculations and have an understanding of the design and mechanism. It must be remembered that the roof is attached in the same way as other structures. For greater confidence, you can call an assistant.
The main advantage of the hip roof design is aerodynamics; it resists strong gusty winds. Air currents will flow down the slopes without causing harm, and without even entering the attic.
The main disadvantage of such a roof is the complex frame, its sheet installation and the fact that it is very small. Of course, the area of the attic is equal to the area of the ceiling, but the usable volume of the room is very small.
The classic hip roof mechanism is a special pyramid with a square or rectangular base. Triangular and trapezoidal slopes, as a rule, rest on or extend beyond them.
The main diagram of the hip roof of a house is quite simple, and it can be calculated in various ways. The hip roof is installed using the Pythagorean system and table. And it won’t be difficult for you to calculate the area of the slopes and hips, but calculating the location and installation of sloped and ordinary rafters takes quite a lot of time. 
The construction of a hip roof begins with assembly. After that . The mechanism of the rafter system is quite complex. Below we will look in more detail at how to make a frame, make calculations and make a roof.
The manufacture and installation of the roof follows the following rules:
- The same wood and material are used to build the ridge system.
- Intermediate boards have a steeper angle of inclination, and their size should be at least 50x150 mm.
- Short pieces and elements are attached to the corner components of the rafters, rather than to the ridge board.
- During construction, the structure uses intermediate central rafters attached to a ridge board.
- And they should rest against the upper end of the harness or against the ridge board.
To assemble and install a hip roof with your own hands, you need to imagine a certain frame of the roof of the house and make a preliminary drawing.
The following elements of the hip roof should be recorded in the drawing:
- the central part of the structure, the ridge, is the load-bearing axis;
- slanted rafters - power components of the rafter, one end will protrude outside the house, and the other will be attached to the ridge;
- rafters of the central type are attached to the ends of the ridge and extend to all walls;
- intermediate rafters extending from the ridge must go strictly along the slopes;
DIY hip roof
Installation and assembly of the hip roof must be done before laying the ceiling.
At the beginning of work, timber is laid along the entire perimeter of the house to more evenly distribute the mass over the entire surface. It is also called Mauerlat. It must be secured to the house using special pins.
- mark the axis from the end of the frame house along the top trim;
- calculate half the thickness of the ridge beam and mark the installation location of the initial element of the rafter system;
- attach one end of the measuring rod to the marked line and mark the location of the intermediate rafter;
- to calculate the overhang of the rafters, one end must be placed on the roof overhang, and the other on the corner on the outside of the house wall;
- you can calculate the location of other elements of central rafters by moving the slats along the side wall of the house and marking the position of each rafter;
- the same thing is repeated at the remaining corners;
- You can buy roofing materials in special construction stores. Today there is a wide selection on the market roofing coverings optimal quality at an affordable price.
Calculation of hip roof elements
For this calculation you will need a special measuring rod. It is executed from standard width 5 cm. There is a special table of the ratios of the length and location of the rafters.
Thanks to these data, which are presented in detail in the table, the length of the rafter leg is the product of the intermediate or angular coefficient of its projection. To increase the accuracy and reliability of calculations, be sure to use this table. Let's consider the example of a roof; you measured the horizontal projection of intermediate type rafters using a batten.
Using the table, you will find the angle of inclination that suits your case and multiply the data.
You can also calculate the length of the rafter overhang. You need to multiply the horizontal projection by a certain factor. These data can also be calculated using the Pythagorean theorem for a right triangle using the formula: a2+b2=c2. Where a and b are horizontal and vertical projections.
Corner elements
All rafters have an oblique cut on one side, which is necessary for fastening to the ridge beam. The ridge has a special undercut with a double bevel for more reliable fixation of parts and elements in the corners of the house.
And the calculation of the rafters corner type is done as follows:
- from the corner you need to measure the full length of the rafters;
- its projection will be the product of the squares of the lengths of the rafter central projections.
The resulting number must be multiplied by the coefficient indicated in the table, and the length of the corner rafter will be obtained.
Then the area of the triangular slopes is calculated. They are also calculated using the Pythagorean theorem. To simplify the calculations, you need to imagine the slope in the form of two right triangles. Next, use the formula to calculate the area of the trapezoid on the side surface of the roof of the house.
And at the very end we calculate the roof. The indicators of all areas need to be summed up, and the minimum roof area will be obtained.
Tools and building materials
To build a hip roof structure with your own hands, you will need special construction tools and materials, such as: electric, hand saw, nails and dowels, hammer, plane, axe, electric drill, timber and boards of one type of wood, material, steel staples.
You can build a standard type tent, either extended in one direction or in the form of a truncated pyramid.
DIY frame installation
Initially, the verticals for the ridge beam are installed. After this, the installation of diagonal rafters of equal length begins.
Next comes the installation of mowing, and then ordinary ones with a certain step of 60 cm, which are secured using a notch to the ridge and. You can do the cutting either with your own hands or with a special power tool.
Then, hooks are attached to the diagonal guides to connect the mowing beams and the Mauerlat at a certain angle relative to the roof ridge.
An important point: ordinary beams should under no circumstances touch the connection points of the Mauerlat.
Strengthening the roof will directly depend on the dimensions of the house. An additional truss is laid, i.e. between adjacent sides of rafters. And already a stand or truss truss is installed on it. At very large area At home, double beams are used for diagonals.
Hip roofs on houses attract attention from afar. The laconicism of the form and the apparent simplicity of the roof are captivating, so the desire to make such a roof is natural. What needs to be provided for construction and how to properly build a roof.
Tent or hip roof
Most economical option The roof of a private house, from the point of view of saving materials for construction, is a hip roof. The roof slopes are made in the form of isosceles triangles forming a common vertex; the base of the roof is a square.
A hipped roof is a type of hipped roof.
By the way, another name for a hip roof is a hip roof. The base of the hip roof is also a rectangle, two side faces triangular, and the other two represent a trapezoid.
The impeccable symmetry of the slopes and roof truss system requires precise calculation and coordination of actions when constructing it yourself. In order to make such a roof, it is necessary to study the features of its design.
Hip roof structures
The main elements of the roof truss system in the form of a tent are:
Diagonal rafters located at the corners of the roof frame
Mauerlat support beam serving as support for the ends of the rafters
Shortened rafters or flanges attached to sloped rafters
Support struts
Additional supports (purlins, crossbars and beams) that create additional rigidity for the roof.
However, the complex arrangement of hip roof elements and rafters creates a sought-after sustainable system that is used in construction country houses. Naturally, the construction of a hip roof requires calculations, the formulas of which are based on trivial methods for calculating triangles.
Hip roof calculation
The purpose of calculating a hip roof is to find the volume of materials required for its construction (roofing, under-roofing material),
lathing and rafter system devices according to specified parameters. In addition to volumetric parameters, the angle of inclination of the slope and the dynamic strength of the entire system are calculated.
Of course, in terms of the number of parameters, the calculation is quite voluminous and complex, so it is recommended to use an online calculator.
As a result of the calculation, the following data will be obtained:
Angles of inclination of side rafters
Total roof surface area (including overhangs)
Lengths of diagonal, side and slant rafters
The number of rafters required for the system installation
Volumes of timber for rafters (m3)
Number of rows of sheathing.
The data obtained is enough to build a hip roof with your own hands.
We erect a hip roof
It is recommended to start the construction of a hip roof with small architectural forms, for example, the roof of an open gazebo or garage. An excellent opportunity to study roof construction technology and subsequently improve your work skills!
frame
The hip roof frame has a classical simple design and consists of 4 diagonal rafters and 8 struts (2 struts for each rafter).
The installation of the roof begins with the construction of the frame. It must be remembered that for wooden houses the frame will rest on the upper crowns, for brick houses and houses made of foam concrete on the Mauerlat.
installation of the mauerlat and support bars
There are the following methods for attaching the Mauerlat:
Using steel wire
Using construction studs
Using anchor bolts.
Fastening the Mauerlat using wire is done by laying pieces of steel wire at a distance of 20-30 mm. After the masonry has dried, wire is wrapped around the timber and its ends are secured.
Construction studs for fastening are L-shaped and have a maximum depth of immersion in the concrete pad of up to 450 mm. To install the Mauerlat studs, mark and drill holes for installation. Then the studs are installed in place and tightened with a nut.
Useful tips
Regardless of the chosen method of fastening the Mauerlat, when installing fasteners, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a waterproofing layer. The waterproofing material is pierced before the studs are inserted. After pouring concrete, it is necessary to clean the threads of the studs before the concrete hardens.
The Mauerlat is fastened using anchor bolts directly into the reinforced belt before pouring. To mark the holes for the anchor bolts, prepare a board and mark the installation locations on it. Then the board is applied to the edge of the Mauerlat and holes are drilled according to the markings. The prepared Mauerlat is put on the bolts, a washer is placed and the nut is tightened.
installation of rafter system
Having aligned the Mauerlat around the perimeter, you can proceed to installing the rafter system - diagonal rafters, which are placed along the diagonals of the hip roof. For reference: the main load of the rafter system of a hip roof falls on the diagonal rafters. Diagonal beams have a significant length and, accordingly, weight.
Installation of diagonal rafters is carried out according to the calculated spacer or non-spacer scheme, according to which rafter leg the diagonal beam can rest against the mauerlat or beam. The angle of inclination of the diagonal rafters can be up to 23°. The second pair of diagonal rafters is installed in a similar way. After installing the long diagonal rafters, two short struts are adjacent to them.
During work, it may be necessary to trim the upper surface of the slanted rafter, which needs to be laid on the edge at an angle. The layer located in the valley is cut off with a groove. This makes it easier to lay the sheathing.
Useful tips
According to the selected project, all associated operations during the construction of a hip roof - the construction of sheathing, the installation of a valley, the framing of pipes and openings - are carried out during the installation of the rafter system. Strict adherence to construction technology will ensure a good result.
Choosing fasteners for erecting a hip roof
The choice of fasteners for roof construction must be given special attention.
To connect the elements of the rafter system, the following metal fasteners will be used:
Perforated serrated and nail plates
Staples, clamps, screws and nails
Perforated steel corners
Slides and sliders for attaching rafters.
In addition, wooden products may be required:
Pins and plates
Triangle bars
Overlays when creating a tenon joint.
In ancient times, our ancestors built their homes in the form of tents. We used natural materials for this: wood, stone, animal skins, etc. The modern tent house is a more fundamental structure. It has several varieties and is endowed with certain technical properties.
Ready-made house project with a hip roof
They can be of two types:
- Full-fledged, built in the form of a tent;
- Incomplete, when they are erected as an ordinary building, the roof structure of which is hipped.
The houses will differ in construction technologies and materials used in the work process.
Characteristics of full-fledged tent houses
Such buildings have. Quite often they can be found in summer cottages. Construction is economical, and the assembly of the structure itself is quite simple.
So, a tent house is based on a frame. The projects are quite varied. You can create them yourself or seek help from a professional architect.
Projects for tent houses are drawn up in a similar way to planning a roof structure of this type.
They just don’t take it into account load-bearing walls houses for which slopes will be used.
Option for a house project with a hip roof Their shape can be with one or two slopes, with four, or multi-slope.
That is, in fact, a tent house is a roof that is immediately installed on a prepared base.
The most interesting are the projects of houses with multi-slope walls. The number of such slopes can be any.
But it’s worth considering that the functionality of such a house may decrease, since there will be a fairly large amount of limited space due to the construction of additional supporting frame elements.
The most functional and practical are houses with one, two and four slopes. Distributing space in them is much easier.
Note. It is worth considering that the height of such a house can be any. But it is necessary to make it in such a way that the ceilings inside the house reach at least 2.4-2.5 m. In this case, the walls will be inclined.
Although you can make them even and reduce them a little accordingly usable area Houses.
Hip roof design diagram There are several ways to operate a building. Firstly, you can use a tent house only in summer time. In this case, a large amount of money is not spent on its construction. Secondly, you can live in it all year round, which requires high-quality insulation and insulation work. Especially if houses with a hip roof are built from familiar building materials.
How to build a tent house
First, you need to select building designs, which are divided into foundation plans and structure walls. Secondly, you need to initially decide on the choice of building materials. The cost of the future home will depend on them.
So, as soon as there is an exact certainty with all this, you can begin work, which is divided into several stages:
All these stages have their own characteristics.
Selection and construction of the foundation
To build a high-quality tent house, you need to choose the right foundation for it. The following foundations are very popular:
Foundation designs are drawn up in advance, after the selection of building materials. For example, if metal is preferred for the construction of the frame, then it is better to make a monolithic or pile foundation for such a house. They are considered the most durable.
The first type is characterized by production using concrete mortar and fittings. And the second is made using metal piles, which are also concreted in the ground at a certain depth.
In most cases, strip and tile foundations are constructed under the wooden frame of a tent house, since the material itself does not have much mass.
- Determine the composition of the soil on the site;
- Establish the groundwater level;
- Define specifications terrain.
The last requirement is characterized by studying the terrain: are there any unevenness, slopes and other defects on the site. On such planes, only a pile or pile-strip foundation is preferred.
Construction of a frame for a building
As mentioned above, a full-fledged tent house is based on a frame. It is constructed from two materials: metal and wood.
Detailed project of a two-story house Note. You can give preference to special profiles. But this is the case if the structure is light, and its period of operation is limited to the warm season.
First you need to draw up design plans. They will allow you to correctly calculate the amount necessary materials for the construction of the frame.
The elements are as follows:
- Bearing (support);
- Additional (supporting);
- Auxiliary (partitions between small cells).
In its principle, the design resembles the frame of a hip roof. All elements are connected with special fasteners, and a bedding made of roofing felt sheets is first constructed on the foundation.
Important. There should be pins and hooks on the surface of the base that serve to secure the frame to it.
It is to them that they are welded or screwed load-bearing beams frame.
External and internal finishing of the frame
Firstly, the tent house must be properly lined. Secondly, do not forget about insulation and insulation work. When they are carried out, modern sheet materials such as polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam are used.
In rare cases, preference is given to mineral wool.
Important. This material is least often used in insulating tent-type houses. This is due to the fact that over time it loses its properties and is able to absorb moisture.
Projects for cladding tent houses are quite varied. Today there are a lot of tools and materials to give appearance uniqueness of the structure.
Initially, sheets of OSB or thick plywood are mounted on the surface of the frame. Insulating or insulating material is already attached to them.
Scheme of cladding a frame house with a hip roof A low sheathing is created on top of it, on which sheets of plywood or OSB are again mounted, prepared using primers. This will give you the opportunity to choose any Decoration Materials for cladding a building.
The following are very popular now:
- Wood;
- Decorative cladding panels;
- Plaster;
- Plastic lining;
- Natural and artificial stone.
The latter material has a large mass and it is not recommended to install it without surface reinforcement. It is best to use stone to finish the lower part of houses.
The inside of a home may look different. For example, you can leave the walls of the building inclined or build profile frame, which will align them. It is fixed to the slope of the structure and to the floor surface. You can already install OSB, plasterboard, and plywood on top.
Example of a frame house interior The surface of these materials is treated with a primer and finished with any modern materials. You can also pre-insulate and insulate the house using similar means from the outside.
The tent house is a fairly simple structure. It must be airtight, since there is no roof in such a structure.
