Not only children love to drive mini cars, but also adults. That’s why they go to a karting club and rent a karting, and some want to make it themselves. In order to make a go-kart yourself, you will need certain knowledge, materials and tools.

What is karting

Karting is car racing using mini cars (karts). A kart is a mini sports car simplest design without a body with a small engine. But there are such cars with powerful engines, this will already belong to the class of “superkarts”. Cards of this class are capable of reaching maximum speed up to 260 km/h.

Device card

PIONEER class karts

1 — front upper bumper; 2 — gas pedal; 3 — brake pedal; 4 — gear shift lever; 5 — rear bumper; 6 — brake disc; 7 — main brake cylinder; 8 — frame (chassis); L — steering column bearing; B — steering column thrust bearing.

Overall dimensions of the go-kart:

• Length: 1015 mm;
• Front width between wheels: 750 mm;
• Rear width between wheels: 730 mm.

Even small children can take part in karting races. Below is a table of ages and racing units corresponding to power.

Class	Age of participants	Machine frame	Engine	Rules
Micro	6-8	Homologated	IAME Parilla 60 (Italy)	The speed is about 60 km/h, competitions are local and throughout Russia. The technology is reliable. There are many participants.
Mini	9-10	Homologated	IAME Parilla 60 (Italy)	There are many participants, the speed is about 80 km/h, competitions both in Russia and local ones. The technology is reliable.
Super Mini	10-12	Homologated	IAME Parilla 60 (Italy)	There are many participants, competitions both national and local, the equipment is reliable, the speed is about 100 km/h.
Pioneer	8-11	Any	Domestic 50 cm³ with gearbox	An outdated class, there are few participants in all-Russian competitions, the equipment is unreliable, speeds are about 60 km/h.
Cadet	10-13	Any	Domestic 50 cm³ with gearbox	An outdated class, there are few participants in all-Russian competitions, the equipment is unreliable, the speed is about 80 km/h.
Mini Rocket	8-11	Any	Raket-85 (Sweden)	Outdated class, only local competitions, reliable equipment, speeds about 60 km/h.
Rockets	11-13	Any	Raket-85 (Sweden)	Outdated class, only local competitions, reliable equipment, speeds of about 80 km/h.
EasyKart-50	5-8	Birel E.K.	IAME Parilla 50 EK (Italy)	Mono series, only local competitions, reliable equipment, speeds of about 40 km/h.
EasyKart-60	8-13	Birel E.K.	IAME Parilla 60 EK (Italy)	Mono-series, many participants, reliable equipment, speeds of about 80 km/h.

Karting project

The materials you need to assemble a mini car can be bought cheaply at a salvage yard or bought new.

You will need the following parts:

• steering wheel (for convenience, it is better to buy one ready to make yourself from leather, fur or wire);
• armchair;
• pedals;
• steering column (shaft);
• steering knuckles;
• steering rods;
• pins;
• axle shafts;
• pedal mounting block;
• master and working cylinders of disc brakes;
• wheels.

It’s better to get the seat from a foreign car to make it more comfortable to drive. Such old rotating parts as the kingpin and steering knuckles must be checked for functionality so that they do not jam. Check brake cylinders, tubes and hoses for leaks. The remaining parts should preferably not be rusty.

At scrap metal collection points (scrap of non-ferrous and ferrous metals) you can buy the following parts inexpensively:

• • metal sheets, strips, tubes;
  • bearings;
  • gears;
  • chains;
  • wheels;
  • motor.

To represent the kart device, it is advisable to have a diagram or drawing of the kart project. No for amateur cars clear dimensions. Everyone does at their own discretion, chooses the sizes for themselves. The main criterion for designing a go-kart is the height of the person who will be driving it. Better yet, install a chair with a slide to adjust the length of the pedals.

Instead of creating a diagram from scratch, it’s better to download finished project on the Internet and modify it, change some dimensions.

For steering rods of homemade karts, steel rods with a diameter of 8 to 15 mm are usually used. From metal plate The steering pendulum is made with a thickness of 5-7 mm.

The general finished drawing looks like this:

Sizes can be changed, but it is better to stick to them standard sizes so that the dynamic and technical characteristics do not change.

• Regular dimensions karting for teenagers: length - 1.3 meters; width - 0.76 meters.
• Overall dimensions of a mini sports car for an adult: length - 1.8 meters; width - 1 meter.

With a kart length of 1.32 meters, the longitudinal distance between the front and rear axles ranges from 1.00 to 1.22 meters.

If possible, we buy new parts. So, a list of devices and parts for creating a map with your own hands:

1. 1. Transmission, steering and brake systems:
      • Transmission;
      • hand brake;
      • steering wheel;
      • wheels;
      • steering and drive shafts;
      • gas and brake pedals;
      • bearings.
   2. Motor:
      • engine (you can use the engine from a chainsaw or lawn mower-trimmer);
      • chain;
      • gas tank;
      • fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers).
   3. Chassis card:
      • 2.5-centimeter square pipe (inch), 9.2 meters long;
      • steel pipe with a diameter of 2 cm, a length of 1.8 meters;
      • pipe with a diameter of 1.5 cm, a length of 1.8 meters;
      • a steel plate slightly larger in size than the engine and 0.5 cm thick;
      • metal or plywood for the bottom and seat;
      • seat (preferably sports). By the way, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to bet on cards.

Except necessary materials and parts you will need welding machine. The kart chassis must be welded with high quality so that the welding seams are not destroyed by vibration.
To purchase all the necessary new materials you will need about 30,000 rubles. But it’s more convenient and easier to make from new parts.

How to make a go-kart frame

It is better to cook and assemble according to the drawing. Put all the dimensions on the diagram in advance.

1. Cut the pipes to the specified dimensions and clean them.
2. Weld the frame.
3. Reinforce with stiffening ribs where it makes sense.

After welding, you should get a frame like this for the kart.

What engine is on the go-kart?

The most suitable engine internal combustion for karting is a chainsaw motor and a trimmer (lawn mower). After disassembling the saw, all unnecessary parts must be removed from its engine: handle, chain, tank, etc.

The difficulty here arises in remaking the sprocket. You need to sharpen the teeth of the chainsaw sprocket a little. Two holes must be drilled in the cooling system casing for mounting to the subframe.

The internal combustion engine of a go-kart is installed at the rear. To do this, you need to weld a thick plate on the back of the frame. The motor must be secured so that its sprocket is in the same plane as the wheel sprocket.

If you buy everything necessary details In the store, it may be more advisable to immediately buy a ready-made racing unit for karting.

One of the car map options looks like this:

KARTING FOR BEGINNERS "Pioneer"

(Part one)

Karting The Pioneer class is the smallest of the sports racing cars. Its engine displacement is only 50 cm3. Such karts are built for races in which children aged 9 to 16 years participate. Unfortunately, the industry does not yet produce these machines, and they are created in sections and circles. Unlike "adults" go-karts"Pioneer" has its own design features.

Its frame, for example, is welded from thinner pipes and has a wedge-shaped shape. It is characterized by manufacturability and reliability. It has advantages over its own kind in rigidity and strength. By the way, we make this frame configuration for karts not only of the “Pioneer” class, but also of the “Junior” and “Soyuzny” class. First stage construction - development of drawings and preparation of fixtures and equipment.

It is most convenient to draw the frame in full size on a sheet of graph paper glued to thick cardboard. Such a drawing will later serve as a plaza, according to which rough adjustments are made. individual elements. It is necessary to draw the frame in two projections - top view and side view. Separately draw the front spar. Don’t be confused by the absence of some dimensions in the drawing - this means that the parts here need to be adjusted to the location.

The next stage is the manufacture of a slipway for assembling the frame. It will be required if you intend to produce these machines in a small series. The base of the slipway is a sheet of duralumin measuring 1700X900 mm and 15-20 mm thick. A clear longitudinal line is drawn along its major axis - a trace of the plane of symmetry of the kart frame and perpendicular to it - the base line for installing the pin bushing clamps.

The holes in the latter must be cut into boring machine- this will ensure the necessary accuracy of installation of the bushings when welding the frame. Steel corners are also installed on the slipway to secure the longitudinal spars. The frame itself is assembled from two longitudinal spars, three cross members (front, middle and rear), a front bumper and steering column mounting brackets. For its elements, it is preferable to use chromium-silite (from material 30KhGSA) or seamless pipes made of grade 20 steel.

The order of their preparation for assembly is as follows. Cut the pipes with an allowance of about 30 mm and bend them using a tool according to the plaza drawing. This operation is best performed without heat. I offer several of the most rational ways such processing. The easiest way to bend pipes is to use a spring inserted inside from OBC wire. It is screwed on a lathe and then necessarily normalized. For thicker pipes you will need 2.5-3 mm wire, and for the rest 1.5-2 mm.

The outer diameter of the spring should be such that it is inserted into the pipe with some force. If the frame card is manufactured in winter time, then before bending, you can freeze the water in the pipes. Pouring molten rosin gives a good effect. And finally, traditional way processing - with packing of sifted and calcined sand. It is easier to bend the pipe by heating the bend with the flame of a torch or blowtorch.

But this method is less preferable, since heating alloy steel significantly reduces its strength and elasticity. Having given the blanks the required shape, adjust them - nail them to each other so that there are no gaps left in the joints. Start this work by installing the front cross member on the slipway (align the middle with the center line of the slipway). Next, install a clamp with a pivot bushing on one side and adjust the cross member to it so that the resulting plane is inclined at an angle of about 30 degrees to the vertical. Perform the same operation on the opposite side of the slipway.

Press the front cross member prepared in this way with staples to the slipway and nail the longitudinal spars to it. Attach the rear cross member to the latter in a similar way, and the bump stop to the front cross member. Fix all frame elements on the slipway with staples and clamps, check their position again and start welding. The best seams are obtained when using argon-arc or carbon dioxide welding; slightly worse results are obtained by conventional electric welding.

Gas should be used last. Weld the frame in several stages. First, “tack” all the joints - each at one or two points, and then weld them completely. Without removing the frame from the slipway, weld the engine and rear axle mounting brackets. Pre-install the latter on the axle - this will help ensure that it is perpendicular to the plane of symmetry of the frame.

The pedal axles, steering column brackets, middle cross member and seat supports should be welded only after preliminary “fitting” of the kart to the racer. The lower part of the seat is located at the same level as the lowest points of the frame side members. Correct fit The racer has the following signs: the back is tilted back by 20-25°, the legs are slightly bent at the knees. The last to be welded are the floor mounting ears, the brackets and tubes of the front upper bumper, the gussets at the junction of the longitudinal side members with the front cross member and the gear shift lever ears, as well as the cable stops.

For the front axle you will need several turned parts, in particular the front hubs (from D16T). axles (from Z0KhGSA), bronze bushings and king pins made of steel 45 or 40Х. It is best to bend the eye of the front axle from a steel strip measuring 40x30 mm according to a template. A lever, a reinforcing gusset and, last but not least, a trunnion should be welded to it. The design of the rear axle is quite simple and technologically advanced.

The bearing housing hubs are cast from aluminum alloy with subsequent finishing on lathe and milling benches. Card brake - disc brake with hydraulic drive. By technical specifications karting The Pioneer class is equipped only with rear wheel brakes. The brake disc is mounted on the rear axle of the kart, and the brake machine is installed on the frame. Its body is made of duralumin, the working cylinder is steel (З0ХГСА or Art. 45). The piston is made of brass or made of D16T material. You can also use the front shoe brake from a T-200 scooter or an M-106 motorcycle.

When installing it, you should be very careful about the alignment of the brake drum. To select the optimal gear ratio of the rear axle chain drive, it is recommended to manufacture a set of driven sprockets with a number of teeth from 22 to 28 with an interval of two teeth. This will greatly facilitate the adjustment of the drive to the weight of the kart and rider, the engine power and the speed of its drive sprocket. Wheel rims map can be made from aluminum alloys D16AM or LMG-6. The thickness of the workpiece sheet is 2-3 mm. The method for extruding a disk is as follows.

First, a punch is turned from any metal. The workpiece is pressed towards it by the tailstock lathe and a roller fixed in the tool holder is rolled until it takes the shape of a punch. Processing is carried out at a rotation speed of the machine chuck from 150 to 300 rpm, and ordinary soap is used as a lubricant. It is best to drill holes in wheel rims using a jig template.

It is advisable to make the latter from steel and harden it. Take the time to do this, especially if you are planning to build several machines. The fastenings of the front wheels, steering rods and pedals must be pinned; Self-locking nuts are also quite acceptable.

Rice. 1. Karting"Pioneer" class: 1 - front upper bump stop, 2 - gas pedal, 3 - brake pedal, 4 - gear lever, 5 - rear bump stop, 6 - brake disc, 7 - brake master cylinder, 8 - frame. L - steering column bearing, B - steering column thrust bearing.

Homemade go-kart with your own hands.

What you will need:
Square/round tube for frame and support
Seat
Steering wheel
Slab
Round rod
Assorted bolts

Step 2: Frame

We built a frame from 1" square tubing that had been sitting next to the house for years. We started by researching racing kart frames and came up with a design.

Step 3: Spindles

To assemble the spindles, you take a piece of 1 "7" long flat stock and bend it so you have a 2"-3"-2" U shape. Make two of them. Once they are bent, drill a hole the size of the bolt you are using on the top and bottom. Now cut a piece round pipe, which is slightly smaller than the inner height of the spindle. This piece should fit snugly against the bolt you are using so that the pipe can rotate freely around the bolt, but not so tightly that it is difficult to rotate. Now for the part that actually rotates, I used 1/2" square pipe to make this part. Weld a bolt that is long enough and wide enough to fall onto the wheels you are using onto the piece of pipe that the bolt goes through. At a 90 degree angle to this part, weld another piece of pipe to which the steering components will be attached.

Step 4: Steering Shaft

The steering shaft is a piece of 1/2" hollow round tube. The length is determined by where you want steering wheel. We made our shaft to be about 18” long, which was perfect for use since both were thin. You will need two industrial washers to hold the shaft in place so that the wheels actually turn instead of the shaft.

Step 5: Management

We made the steering components from one piece. We welded a round piece to some of the tie rod ends and then to an industrial washer. The tie rod end is secured with a bolt that we welded to the square rod on the spindle. Now you need to make a steering knuckle to which the steering shaft is welded. We took a 4" section of 1" square pipe and welded two large bolts to opposite sides of the pipe, and these bolts are inside the washers, which are welded to the round rod.

Step 6: Front Wheels

We used wheels from old mini bikes for the front and rear. It's as simple as putting the wheel on and bolting it on.

Step 7: Rear Wheels

The axle for the rear wheels is made from axles from mini bikes we had. We measured the distance we needed the wheels and sprockets to clear and trim them. Weld the axle to the side of the frame.

Step 8: Engine

We used an old 3 HP motor. for installation on a homemade go-kart. We used the original engine mount and welded it to the frame.

Step 9: Seat and Controls

We used an old spot we found on the side of the house. We cut off the legs and weld them to the frame. We used mini bike brakes and put a handbrake on the side. For the gas pedal we used a brake lever from one of our mini bikes and welded a support onto the front bumper. The brakes operate on another brake lever from one of the minibikes, and we welded it to the support panel on the side of the seat.

Step 10: Final Product

After making this DIY go kart there are some things that I would have done differently if I had the material. I would make the rear axle solid to make it stronger. I would have designed the pedal placement better, we didn't think about the pedals when doing the steering. Future updates include bigger engine with a clutch and maybe a gearbox so we can shift it. Once everything was completed I painted everything black.

For many fans, the passion for karting begins with youth. At this age, according to the law, it is still too early to have a driver’s license, so young drivers look for inspiration on specially designated routes. At the same time, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such a vehicle, so you have to look for options on how to make a go-kart with your own hands.

When self-made a small car with an internal combustion engine can save significantly on assembly. In this case, the device will be maximally adapted to the specific driver. It will also be possible to create an independent design for a personal four-wheeler, which will give maximum individuality to the vehicle.

This sport is one of the most popular among young people who are interested in motorcycles. The older generation can also take part in it. Cars with unusual, at first glance, shapes can give positive results:

• certain vehicle driving skills;
• add adrenaline to the blood;
• They allow you to “feel” the car yourself and fall in love with the technology.

By kart we mean vehicle in the form of an open mini car, which usually lacks suspension and simplifies many traditional systems. Another feature of it is the ability speed dial speed in a short time.

The hobby attracts fans so much that they make homemade go-karts with their own hands in order to get a unique result. You can also put production on stream, turning it into a small business.

Initial design stage

Manufacturing begins with the formation of the project. Selected optimal shape and convenient dimensions. The authors are limited only by their design imagination. It is only important that they are available basic systems management and security. A home-made device must have the following modules:

• steering system;
• chassis on frame;
• brake system.

It is worth first sketching a plan diagram with the location important nodes. This is done to scale, preferably on graph paper or in a convenient computer program. You can look for design inspiration on the Internet by looking at photos. modern models karts

A more expensive option is to order drawings from a specialized design bureau. However, with such work, you can be confident in the result, because competent engineers are able to calculate and implement a project taking into account all power loads, using strength materials, theoretical mechanics and other sciences.

When choosing dimensions, you should take into account the height and weight of the driver so that he easily fits into the parameters of the car. Traditionally, the size of a minicar depends on the age of the driver. In most cases, teenagers can get by with a length of 1.3 m and a width of 0.75 m. For adults, it is worth raising the bar to 180 cm and 100 cm, respectively.

Frame drawing Assembly positions Drawing in two projections Full assembly

Maneuverability is influenced by the center distance. With a total length of 130 cm, a value in the range of 1-1.2 m will be convenient. It is advisable to immediately draw everything on the sketch to scale in three projections in order to visually perceive the parameters.

How to collect karts

The selection of materials is carried out in specialized stores, at metal sites or in construction markets, where they offer profile metal with different properties. It is selected according to the required characteristics based on labeling and assortment. If you have broken equipment such as lawn mowers, trimmers or mopeds, then some of the equipment can be recovered during dismantling.

When assembling individual components and systems, it is important to take care of a sufficient set of necessary materials. For the brake and steering system you will need:

• steering wheel;
• multi-stage gearbox;
• hand brake;
• wheels of small diameter;
• at least a pair of pedals (gas/brake);
• set of ball bearings;
• shafts for steering and drives.

The power unit requires the following equipment:

• internal combustion engine;
• drive chain;
• fuel tank of at least 3 liters;
• set of hardware (nuts/washers/bolts/screws).

The chassis is assembled using the following assortment:

• profile pipe (square section 25x25) up to 10 m long;
• thick-walled round tube 2 cm in diameter and 2 m long;
• pipe 15 mm in diameter and 2 m long;
• material for the bottom and frame of the seats (tin or plywood);
• chair of minimal dimensions.

Having the drawings of the karting frame, they prepare metal blanks. To do this, pre-purchased metal is cut with a grinder into separate elements under welding work. Since the basis is the chassis, the initial welding and assembly of this “skeleton” of the go-kart is carried out. If you do not have the skills to work with welding equipment, you will have to invite a third-party specialist, which will significantly reduce the time and improve the quality of the work. Thus, the base will be strong and free of microcracks that could lead to undesirable negative situations on the highway.

It is important to know that welding work must be carried out under high temperature conditions, which will give a high degree of metal penetration and minimize the formation of slag in the seams.

Modern manufacturers offer to simplify assembly according to drawings. In this case, it is recommended to use ready-made metal power elements designs that are offered as a construction kit. The estimated cost of such elements will be about 30–40 thousand rubles.

Assembling a karting with your own hands (manual with drawings)

Assembly is carried out according to a drawing, which is pre-fabricated in different projections. It is advisable that it be applied to thick paper. In some cases you will need auxiliary tools, for example, clamps capable of holding components in position for welding or joining with bolts.

It is worth considering that for karting characteristic feature is that the camber angle of the front wheel pair is less than that of the rear pair. This feature allows for rotation, allowing for easy twisting of the chassis. It is possible to achieve similar effects in the following case. The rotary axle is fixed at the front corners in the area where the wheels are supposed to be installed, which will allow the system to rotate slightly.

Beginners can mark the floor with chalk in advance for ease of assembly.

Welding must be carried out in such a way that the mating elements do not “lead”. In some cases it will be necessary to press the component parts with a heavy press, e.g. concrete slab. After the seam has cooled, it must be checked for strength. in a convenient way. Wooden wedges are often used for positioning so that the assembled model does not “float”.

After welding the “skeleton”, plugs are installed on the front part of the axle. The axle itself is a 20mm tube connected to the frame using a pair of bushings. Everything is recorded bolted connections. The plugs are installed before starting work on the steering unit.

The rear axle is rigidly attached to the frame. It is much easier to install, since there are no levers characteristic of the front pair of wheels. To ensure free rotation of the rear axle, you need to install support brackets with bearings. It is advisable to attach such a unit to the frame using bolts, locknuts and washers, and not by welding. This will give a more accurate result.

At the next stage, the seat and bottom are installed, protecting the driver from mechanical damage and contamination from below. It is made last in order to be fully distributed over the entire horizontal surface.

Any seat with comfortable cushions can be used as a comfortable chair. Often craftsmen do not bother with manufacturing of this element but just buy suitable option in the shop. It is important to choose a seat that has at least minimal lateral support so that when turning the driver is not carried out of his seat. It is also important to leave enough space to comfortably move the levers and press the pedals.

Installation of the steering column and engine

Having chosen a motor from a trimmer or chainsaw for your go-kart, we carry out small preparatory work with him. We get rid of unnecessary elements, including the chain, shift knobs, fuel tanks, hard elements, etc. It is worth considering that the problem of remaking sprockets to suit your needs is problematic.

The basis for the new star on the drive shaft is the old one. We first calculate the number of teeth on it. Through the cooling casing we make a couple of technological holes necessary for mounting the power plant to the subframe. If a novice driver is satisfied with a little power at a sufficient speed, then the optimal and cheaper option is to use an internal combustion engine with a trimmer.

It is more convenient to mount the power plant on a prepared suspension. To do this, we weld a special steel plate on the back side of the structure. We position the motor so that the driving pulley is centered along the axis of rotation with the driven pulley. Mark the holes for the mounting bolts.

Fixing the pulley onto the axle should begin after the axles are inserted into the bushings. In such a situation, a set screw will help.

Assembling the steering gear begins with installing a tube (future axle) with a diameter of 15 mm. You will need to bend it 90 degrees. In this situation, you will need to heat the bend area. gas burner or using blacksmith's forge. The steering wheel alignment process uses adjustable joints to minimize the effort of making wheel alignment adjustments.

Installation of the brake system is mandatory, since without it it is prohibited to operate the device for safety reasons. It is worth considering that the provision of racing performance is supported by the installation of racing-type wheels. They have a wide base and small diameter. Installation is carried out on the front and rear axles, and only after determining a clear installation location is the brakes installed.

We fix the caliper to the chassis and the disc to the rear axle. A pair of wheels must be selected for the braking system. The safest option is to mount it on each axle on both sides of the go-kart.

To make their work easier, craftsmen use brake systems from old motorcycles or scooters. They are usually looked for at legal showdowns or on the Internet. It is important to install the brake pedal, which will significantly free up your hands for driving. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the side guards for the feet near the pedals so that they do not fly to the side during turns at speed.

The ignition and gas systems are controlled via a foot pedal. Although feeding is allowed in the same way as in lawn mowers - with a manual system. This is a matter of taste or habit of the driver.

A mandatory step is testing all components and systems, including the brake system. This is done on a free route while observing safety precautions. In all conditions, the driver must wear a protective helmet and have eye protection: a visor or glasses.

It is not recommended to accelerate on homemade products above 30 km/h, since not all structures are able to withstand the strength under such a load. It is prohibited to drive such equipment on public roads, because the homemade product does not have the appropriate permits and quality certificates.

You can make a go-kart with your own hands if you have a simple fleet of machine tools. The design of the KS-76 model with minor changes is taken as the basis.

The picture shows overall dimensions of the map and its components:

1. Rear wheel.
2. Front wheel.
3. Frame.
4. Hydraulic brake drive.
5. Rear axle.
6. Steering.
7. Seat.
8. Bottom.

Design map.

Wheels.

The presented model uses wheels of two types (in width).

Front wheel:

• disk 4 J - 4.5 PCD = 6 x 76 ET = 4 DIA = 55
• tire 110 / 60 R 4.5

Rear wheel:

• disk 6.5 J - 4.5 PCD = 6 x 76 ET = 4 DIA = 55
• tire 168 / 40 R 4.5

Before you start designing, you need to know exactly the dimensions of the wheels and tires used. The selected wheel sizes should determine: ground clearance of at least 30 (mm); rear axle shaft length; height of bushings on the frame for fastening rotary mechanisms front wheels; location of the rear axle axis in the brackets.

Frame.

1. Brackets (supports) for rear axle mounts.
2. Hydraulic brake drive mounting plate.
3. Fuel pump mounting bracket.
4. Mounting point for the chain tensioner.
5. Engine mounting plates.
6. Bottom fastening gussets.

Welded from bent, seamless metal pipes 30ХГСА. The wall thickness is 1.5 (mm). Pipe diameter: 28 (mm) – load-bearing elements; 18 (mm) – auxiliary elements (bumpers, supports).

You can bend pipes using a homemade one.

In the presence of attachments, fasteners are welded to the frame: seats; main brake cylinder; expansion tank for liquid; tubes; accelerator and clutch cables and pedals; gas tank; gear shift knobs; chain tension adjustment devices; stops limiting the angle of rotation of the steering mechanism.

Hydraulic brakes.

1. Caliper housing.
2. Working cylinder.
3. Piston.
4. Rubber cuff.
5. Brake shoe.
6. Friction material.
7. Brake hose fitting mounting location.
8. Pad guide.
9. Pressure spring.
10. Brake bleeding valve.
11. Cotter pin.
12. Castle nut.
13. Guide finger.

Floating design, ensures uniform pressure of the pads to the brake disc on both sides.

When braking, the liquid in the cylinder, expanding, presses on the cuff (4), which pushes the piston (3) out of the working cylinder (2). The piston (3) moves the brake pad (5) to one surface brake disc. With a constant increase in fluid pressure, the caliper (1) moves along the guide pins (13) until the other pad is pressed against the opposite side of the disc, after which braking occurs with uniform pressure.

Rear axle.

1. Rear wheel hub.
2. Housing with bearing.
3. Pressure sleeve.
4. Fuel pump drive eccentric.
5. Axle (shaft).
6. Rear wheel brake disc.
7. Mechanism for attaching the brake disc to the shaft.
8. Chain sprocket.
9. Clamp (collet).
10. Washer.
11. Castle nut.
12. Cotter pin.

Radial spherical double-row ball bearings No. 1204 with washers protecting the balls from dust are installed in the housings (2).

Front wheel swivel mechanism.

1. Cotter pin.
2. Castle nut.
3. Bearing No. 201 with protective washers.
4. Hub.
5. Trunnion.
6. Bearing No. 104 with protective washers.
7. Kingpin.
8. Rounded fist.
9. Brake drive device.
10. Front brake disc.

Steering.

1. Steering wheel.
2. Rotary mechanism.
3. Steering column.
4. Emphasis.
5. Main thrust.
6. Intermediate row (trapezius).
7. Rubber-metal hinge.