How to grout joints on tiles. Selecting a mixture and implementing grouting joints between tiles in different ways. Caring for seams

Having finished laying tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is grouting ceramic tiles. This step is very important, and if you know how to grout the tiles correctly, you will be able to hide some installation defects. If the grouting is done poorly, it will even ruin flawless styling tiles

• Cement-based grouts
• Why do you need a sealant?
• Work order
• How to remove grout from tiles

Modern technology for laying tiles involves grouting the joints final stage works

Make sure the tile adhesive is completely dry before you begin grouting. The tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, and all remaining separators (crosses) should be removed. Some manufacturers claim that crosses can be left in the seams and covered with grout. But craftsmen do not advise doing this, since the layer of grout above the cross will be thinner, which means its color will be different, which can ruin appearance seam

If you were working with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tile is unglazed, the top and lateral surface Each tile needs to be moistened. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout. You can moisten the surface of the tiles using a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moisturizing, because puddles of water remaining on the surface of the tiles or in the seams can damage the grout, and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about grouting unglazed tiles, it is better to consult grout manufacturers.

Grouting tile joints: video instructions

What type of grout is used for tile joints?

There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a grout material for tiles, do not confuse it with elastomer sealing compounds that fill the joints building materials. For example, a silicone seal. It is indeed used for tiles, but not for joints, but to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. Craftsmen do not recommend using silicone sealant for tile joints.

Epoxy resin grouts

In addition to epoxy resin, they contain a hardener, which makes tile joints resistant to chemicals. This is a rather expensive grout, so it is usually used for commercial and production premises. It is not very convenient to work with it - the grout is viscous. If the width of the seams between the tiles is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tile itself is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy resin-based grout will not penetrate the seams; they are very narrow for it.

Cement-based grouts

This is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made cement grouts, already diluted in the required proportion, but they are more expensive. Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that are included in the material. Thus, there are three types of cement grout: dry hardener, latex mixture and industrial cement. Important: such grouts can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, and have a negative effect on the skin and lungs. Therefore, use respirators, rubber gloves and safety glasses while working.

The cement-based grout is carefully distributed, filling all the empty spaces between the tiles

Why do you need a sealant?

Using a sealant, craftsmen pursue two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tiles themselves from stains, and to protect the seams from excessive moisture absorption. So that stains do not appear on the surface of unglazed tiles, the cladding is coated with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are made from varnish, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and grout you are using.

Which grout for tiles is better?

Most craftsmen use Atlas, Ceresit, and Hercules grouts. Please note that the seams should be darker than the background of the tile. This way the strictness of the geometry is emphasized, and the dirt that inevitably accumulates in the seams over time will not be so noticeable.

When rubbing seams with white grout, be prepared for the fact that a yellow coating will appear on it, and it cannot always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are covered with dark-colored material, use detergents once every 2-3 months. But grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will fade over time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will remain pristine.

Grouting the tile joints is done using a small rubber spatula.

How to grout tiles correctly

If you have never seen how ceramic tile grouting is done, a video from the Internet will help you get an idea of ​​the work process. It includes several stages: mixing the grout, keeping the solution for a certain time for better wetting, followed by re-mixing the grout, distributing the solution, cleaning the seams from excess grout.

The choice of grout for tiles is quite large in terms of price, color, and quality.

Prepare everything you need for work. You will need:

• respirator (if you plan to work with cement grouts);
• rubber gloves, safety glasses;
• rubber roller or spatula;
• the grout itself;
• bucket, clean cloth, sponge;
• plywood (if we're talking about about tiles on the floor);
• sealant;
• paint roller or paint brush (small).

Work order

• Applying grout

After the grout has been diluted in the required proportion, place a mound of grout on the surface of the tile (if you are grouting tile joints on the floor, you can simply lay out the grout from a bucket, and if you are working on a wall, use a rectangular trowel). A grout float is best for distributing grout.

The grout float should be held diagonally - this way the solution will be distributed over the surface more evenly

It should be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and grout should be applied diagonally. Run the float over the surface of the tile 2-3 times, but don’t just cover the tile with grout, but try to rub it into the seams and press with force. The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means it will be tighter. The main idea of ​​grouting tile joints is to fill all the corners and voids around the tile from bottom to top. During the grouting process, the liquid will leave the grout joint, so the material will harden and the joints will be filled with particles of cement and sand.

You should not grout the entire surface at once. First, spread the material over a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters. This way you can evaluate how quickly the grout sets and understand how often you will have to stop work and clean the joints.

How to grout tiles using a grout bag

The grout bag is very convenient and practical tool to perform a simple but important operation

If you are working on a surface that is difficult to clean, using a grout bag is recommended. It operates on the principle pastry bag for finishing cakes. A metal tip is attached to its end, the width of which is approximately the same as that of the grout joint. The bag is filled with grout and squeezed into the seam through the tip.

When working with the bag, place the tip at the top of the seam and move it back and forth until the seam is completely filled. To effectively fill, work along the entire length of the joint rather than around individual tiles. First fill horizontal and then vertical seams. You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first setting, you should compact the grout into the seam using a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the seam, or jointing. After the compressed grout has set in the joint (this takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush.

How to remove grout from tiles

• Step 1: Dry grout removal

Once you have grouted all the joints, use a float to remove any excess grout. It should be held at right angles to the tile and moved diagonally relative to the surface of the joints. If you move vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin some seam, removing part of the grout from it. After dry removing all excess grout, allow the joints to set before wet grouting.

• Step 2: Wet grout removal

How long should it take after finishing dry grouting? It varies greatly from installation to installation. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The drying speed of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, and type of base. Weather conditions play an important role.

Working with a damp sponge is a mandatory stage of work, which will return the tiles’ shine, gloss and original color.

Remains of grout on the surface of ceramic tiles sometimes dry out quite quickly, while the grout in the seams remains wet for a long time. Use a very damp sponge to evaluate. With its help you can test a small area of ​​the surface. If the grout has set very quickly, wet removal of the grout will be labor intensive. The material in the seams should be dense and elastic, but not hard. If the grout from the seams stretches behind your damp sponge, it has not yet set enough, you will have to wait a few more minutes. Start cleaning when the grout remains in place.

If too much time has passed from grouting the joints to wet grouting, you can remove the dried-on excess using a special abrasive float. It does not leave scratches on the tile surface.

To wet grout tile joints, you will need a bucket of water and a sponge. First, use a sponge to quickly remove most of the grout. Make gentle circular movements with the sponge, gradually removing sand and cement particles. Make sure that there are no grooves in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and wring it out well.

To obtain an ideal result, the seams are given the same shape and depth

Inspect the grout joints and smooth them out if necessary using a jointer (a wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.

• Step 3: Final Cleaning

When all the seams are level, the surface of the tiles should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which must be constantly rinsed in water and wrung out well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residue from the tile surface. After this, the seams should dry for 15 minutes.

• Step 4: Apply Sealant

Sealant can be used to cover both the tile and the grout once the tile joints have completely hardened. If you are covering only the seams, use a small brush; if you are covering both tile and grout, use a small roller.

Each master has his own technology on how to properly grout joints. Let's look at an example of cement grouting tile joints without the help of professionals and craftsmen. That is, with your own hands. I think you will like this technology for grouting tile joints with your own hands.

A well-made grout can mask existing installation defects, while a poorly done grout can completely destroy the impression of a flawless installation.

The main thing is to do everything correctly and avoid mistakes in your work.

For DIY repairs, cement-based grout is best. This is a powder that is diluted with water or liquid latex. Of course, you can pick up a ready-to-use liquid solution in the store, but it costs much more. In addition, in a solution made on your own, you can adjust the density yourself.

We are starting renovations!

To carry out the work with our own hands and strength, we need:

A construction mixer will not only save effort and time, but also mix the solution much better.

• tile grout (regular, moisture-resistant, colored - depending on your preferences and room);
• water (for mixing the grout and washing off unnecessary residues at the end);
• spatula (preferably rubber, for more convenient processing of seams);
• construction mixer (to obtain a homogeneous mass without lumps, but you can do without it - stir everything with a stick or spatula);
• bucket or bowl (any vessel in which you can stir the solution);
• sponge (loofah or regular kitchen sponge, if you don’t have one, you can use a regular rag).

To form neat seams you will need a special spatula that will help you achieve beautiful and even lines. Although if such a device is not at hand, do not be discouraged. You can correct the tile seams with your own hands, or rather, with your fingers.

Before starting work, check whether the adhesive on which the tiles were laid is completely dry and thoroughly clean the tiles of debris and dirt. Remove any remaining spacers (crosses) between the tiles as they may spoil the appearance after the work is completed.

Return to contents

The process of laying grout on tiles

We take a container for stirring the grout, the grout itself and begin to make a solution, stirring the powder with water until a homogeneous mass is obtained with the consistency of thick sour cream. note that ready mix tends to harden, that is, if the work area is large enough, you will have to prepare the solution several times.

Important: for better adhesion of the tiles to the material, moisten the seams with water using a narrow brush or sponge. But do not overdo it, as excess moisture can cause the grout to crack or fall out of the joints, both during the work process and after it has dried. You can also use a garden sprinkler or spray bottle to save time. If there are plumbing fixtures, household appliances or other things near the tiles that you do not want to get dirty, cover them while the work is being done. masking tape. Rubber gloves can be used to protect your hands. You can do everything and with bare hands, but be prepared that tile grout is very drying to the skin.

We put grout on rubber spatula and place it in a small mound on a previously cleaned and prepared wall. We move the spatula diagonally, holding it at an angle of 30-45 degrees to the tile and try to fill the seams as much as possible. The stronger the pressing force, the more densely the seam will be filled and the material will adhere more firmly. The main idea of ​​the whole process is to fill as efficiently and correctly as possible all the voids and corners around the tiles that remain after laying them. When filling the seams, press the grout into them and immediately wipe off the excess from unnecessary areas. Remember to stir the solution in the bucket from time to time so that it remains soft and elastic before applying it to new areas. According to the technology for grouting tile joints on walls, you need to move from the top of the wall to the bottom. If you are grouting seams on the floor, it would be correct to move from the corner of the room to the exit. Try to do everything as efficiently as possible, quickly and accurately. As you work, you will be able to see for yourself what the drying speed of your solution is, and determine at what speed you should work.

When all the seams are filled, proceed to the step of removing excess grout from the tiles. This time, hold the putty knife at right angles to the tile and scrape the excess into a bucket.

Wet the sponge as much as possible and then test small plot cladding surfaces. The grout in the seams should be elastic and dense, but not hard.

Next, after the initial cleaning, wait 15-30 minutes until the grout dries. After initial cleaning, the grout requires wet cleaning with a sponge. To determine whether the tiles and grout joints are ready for the second stage of cleaning, wet the sponge and try cleaning a small area first. The grout in the seams should remain dense and elastic, but not hard, otherwise the tiles will have to be cleaned with great effort, which can lead to damage to the seams. Next, with a damp sponge or cloth, we begin to remove excess grout from the tiles in a circular motion. Remember to constantly rinse the sponge and wring it out thoroughly. How well the tiles are cleaned can be seen by the cleanliness of the water in the bucket. Ideally, the seam should be smooth on top, not convex, even slightly concave. Seams can be trimmed using the edge of a sponge. To do this, run the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing any ridges and filling the indentations with a small amount of grout on your fingertip. It is very important to give all grouted tile joints the same shape and depth.

At the end, a final thorough cleaning of the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge is done. If you are unable to remove grout residue with a sponge, use a coarse bristle brush. Remember, the longer grout remains on the tiles, the more difficult it is to remove. Grouted seams will finally harden 5-7 days after you do the grouting yourself.

Happy renovation!

To receive not only quality after renovation, but also a pleasant appearance of ceramic-trimmed surfaces is an understandable desire of apartment owners. Not only the appearance and overall aesthetics of the room, but also the service life of the coating as a whole will depend on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor. Therefore, it is worth approaching the choice of the type of joint filler and processing technique with attention to all details.

What does grout do?

Joint filler plays several roles.

1. Protects the base of the coating ( adhesive composition) from destruction due to exposure to moisture.
2. Grout for floor tiles does not allow accumulation of garbage.
3. Joint filler, matched to the color of the surface, in contrast, matching the surrounding walls - will allow you to achieve the desired aesthetics.
4. Grout for floor tiles, as well as for wall tiles, is used as a damper. During seasonal temperature surges, the pavement configuration changes, including the distance between separate elements styling
5. The mixture for filling joints has partial vapor permeability. Moisture can circulate naturally.
6. Grout for tiles on the bathroom floor plays the role of an anti-fungal and anti-mold agent.

The list can go on. For example, mention that floor tile grout acts as an effective connector, improving the overall distribution of mass over the surface when walking. But it is already clear that you need to grout the seams carefully and correctly, guaranteeing a good result.

Types of grout mixtures

Based on the type of main component, joint filler is divided into several classes. Correctly chosen grouting of tile joints on the floor or walls will create a wear-resistant and durable filling that will last as long as the main coating. Based on the type of main ingredient, the compositions are divided into:

• cement based on Portland cement. The mixture is very common; within the class there are grouts with the addition of various components that give the joints moisture resistance, special strength or increase the degree of viscosity;
• By choosing silicone grout for tile joints on the floor or walls, you can guarantee waterproofing and completely neutralize vapor penetration. This is especially important in bathrooms and toilets, as well as rooms with high humidity;
• Epoxy compounds have complex characteristics. The created seam is durable, has low moisture permeability, and fungus and mold do not grow in it - a good option For bathroom. Grouting floor tiles made from an epoxy mixture will last a long time, since the composition forms a durable structure that is not subject to cracks.
• Latex composition is used very often. According to its main characteristics, it is similar to a cement-containing mixture, but it is plastic and easier to work with. In addition, latex grout for floor tiles or other surfaces comes in a variety of colors.

Tools you will need for the job

When considering the question of how to grout tiles on a floor or wall, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the tools used. The final result and its quality depend on their choice.

To quickly and easily carry out work on filling the joints between tiles on a horizontal or vertical surface, you will need:

• device for jointing. This can be a plastic or wooden stick, sharpened on one side;
• a container or container for mixing a solution, a small volume - we will discuss later why the composition for grouting between tiles on a floor or wall is prepared in small portions;
• rubber spatula, the size is selected based on the geometry of the ceramic elements: the smaller the dimensions, the more modest the width of the spatula should be;
• large foam sponge, brush;
• large bucket for water;
• construction mortar mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment.

From extremely useful tools You can note the bag for processing seams. Based on its design, it is easy to understand how to grout tiles on a floor or wall quickly and efficiently. The bag looks like a culinary syringe. It has a spout and a solution container.

The process of filling seams looks like this:

• the spout is placed in the gap between the tiles and pressed in with force;
• by squeezing the bag the solution is squeezed out;
• By moving the spout, you can quickly go through the seams, working at good speed.

The order of how to grout seams on tiles on the floor or wall using a bag is as follows: first go through horizontal lines, then vertical ones. When squeezing out, excess solution inevitably forms. Grouting floor tiles or wall covering It will go faster if you let the mixture set for 30 minutes - then the partially hardened composition is removed more carefully.

How to prepare the mixture

After considering how to choose grout for certain conditions, you can move on to the question of its preparation. You will need to follow several rules:

1. There is no need to prepare a large portion of the solution - it sets quickly enough both inside the seams and in the container. Remove excess and clean the surface of the coating before the grout hardens.
2. Thorough mixing allows you to obtain a plastic and easy-to-use mass. But you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles in the solution.

Based on the basic rules, we will formulate a procedure for using tile grout. It is like this:

• pour a little of the prepared mixture from the packaging into the container;
• using a construction mixer or a drill attachment, adding water and kneading the solution;
• During such processing, air enters the composition. Therefore, you need to pause for about 5-8 minutes between adding a portion of water and kneading to get rid of them.

The process continues until the mixture becomes slightly thicker than sour cream, but does not crumble into lumps like cottage cheese. When mixing completely manually, there is no need to pause for the solution to settle. In this case, you will have to ensure that the mixture is uniform in both color and consistency.

Surface preparation

It is important not only to know how to use tile grout, but also how to prepare the base, since the durability of the grout and its appearance depend on this. Before you start you will need:

• thoroughly clean the space between the tiles from mortar and debris, forming cracks of uniform depth;
• process the future seam antifungal agent;
• wet the seam in depth with water, using a small amount of liquid.

ABOUT last stage It's worth talking in more detail. Ceramic tiles with a matte surface have the ability to draw moisture out of the grout. This can lead to cracking and spalling.

Therefore, when working with glazed ceramics, it is enough to moisten the seam with a small amount of water, and in the case of matte tiles, you will need to treat not only the gap, but also the side part laying element, capturing the front surface.

To Work with matte tiles need to be done quickly to prevent the solution from drying out. During work, parts of the seams of the installation being processed, if necessary, are additionally sprayed from a spray bottle. If it is clear that the solution dries very quickly, it is also sprayed with a small amount of water to achieve partial hardening within 30 minutes.

Seam filling

Let's look at how to use tile grout direct purpose. The technology for filling seams looks like this:

• If you are processing a laying of small tiles, it is more convenient to work with a rubber spatula. They are gaining a small amount of putty and pressed forcefully into the seam until it is filled;
• when working on laying large tiles, for example, on the floor, you can use a construction rubbing trowel, plastic or wooden. A lot of solution is poured onto it at once, it is pressed with force into the seam remaining on the tool - it is moved to the edge and the process is repeated in the next section. You need to move the trowel at an angle of 30 degrees relative to the direction of the gap.

During work, the grout may sag into the seam. Then the process of pressing the solution is repeated and this is done until the composition confidently fills the gap between the tiles.

A special note on processing volumes. It is recommended to grout no more than 1-2 square meters of area in one stage. This ensures that the putty will not have time to set and you can carefully and accurately process the seams

Formation of the seam surface

There is a common proverb: repairmen are divided into only two types, some create a grout with a smooth surface almost flush with the tile, others create grout with a concave bottom, the rest of the divisions are far-fetched. Let's look at how to get the job done in both ways.

1. To make a seam with a smooth surface, use a foam sponge. The first pass with plywood, a board, or a flat-pointed plastic or wooden stick removes excess grout. The second, foam rubber, is used to evenly deepen the seam, leaving it even. This kind of work requires skill - the solution accumulates on the sponge and makes it difficult to control the quality of the treatment.
2. To make a seam with a concave surface, it is convenient to use a piece of cable insulation with a diameter close to or larger than the width of the gap. They are carried along the line of putty, pressing the mark. Then use a sponge to remove excess solution from the sides. This technique allows you to get a good result even with little skill.

The main requirement is that the surface of the tile must be higher than that of the grout layer. Different seam configurations allow, among other things, to form and complement overall aesthetics coverings.

Surface cleaning

There are opinions that it is necessary to clean the tiles after 24 hours from the moment the joints are grouted. In this case, it is recommended to use solvents, mustard powder, polishing attachments for drill. These are understandable requirements, since within 24 hours the solution will completely harden and will be extremely difficult to remove.

You can clean the tiles 2-3 hours after grouting. You need to work carefully, without much pressure and excessive moisture. In this case, clean, soft rags and sponges are used, which must be constantly rinsed and squeezed vigorously. After the tiles are cleaned, the seams are sprayed with an extremely small amount of water, from a spray bottle, from a great distance.

Once again, it is worth emphasizing: if cleaning the tiles is carried out a couple of hours after grouting, it is highly not recommended to apply pressure to the partially hardened seam. Its surface may be damaged. Also, it is important not to use a lot of moisture so that the solution does not flow.

Another tip is implemented the next day. It is necessary to carefully examine the condition of the seams and, if necessary, repeat the grouting process. Or simply treat them with an antifungal agent. There is no comment on the quality that can be achieved with attention to detail.

Video on how to choose grout, prepare it and what tools you need:

profipol_dp 900 views

From this article you will learn how and with what you need to grout tiles.

IN in this case we will use cement-based grout. It also exists on the basis of epoxy resin.

So, we have it (or on the walls, it makes no difference). We need to wipe it down. Where to begin?

Preparing tiles before grouting.

Before grouting, you first need to clean the seams from any remaining adhesive and wash the laid tiles.

Let's take it construction knife and clean the remaining glue from the seams.

You need to clean it very carefully, because... There is a high probability of breaking off a piece of tile if you sharply hit the corner with a knife.

You shouldn’t go too far into the seam with a knife; just clean off the top 3-4mm of the tile ends.

The next step is a vacuum cleaner. You need to collect all the debris from the seams.

This is what you should get.

Then you need to thoroughly wash all the tiles from dust and glue residues.

Immediately after washing, the places that you missed when cleaning the tiles will clearly appear. There's no escape from this :) It will need to be cleaned up.

Tile grouting tool.

We will need a rubber spatula, a sponge for washing off the grout, a bucket of water (two are possible), a container in which the grout will be mixed, and a spatula (or a small mixer with a screwdriver) for stirring it.

We mainly use Mapei Ultracolor Plus for grouting tiles. We love working with it, which is why we have been using it for many years. But these are just our personal preferences, you can use what you like (or what they sell you at the hardware store).

Mixing the grout.

You need to pour very little water into the container - 150-200 ml, otherwise you risk mixing as much grout as you simply physically do not have time to work with (the finished mixture begins to harden after 35-40 minutes, and this is not so much, believe me).

Your finished grout should be approximately twice the volume of water used.

Stir until smooth, the consistency is similar to thick sour cream. We wait 5-7 minutes, let the powder soak up water and mix again. Ready.

Grouting tiles.

Using a rubber spatula, rub the mixture along the seam.

Then use the same spatula to remove excess grout.

Along straight seams, remove the grout holding the spatula across the seam, and at intersections - at an angle of 45° to the seams (diagonally). Otherwise, you will choose a lot of unnecessary things.

Once the grout begins to dry, you need to wash off any remaining grout from the tiles.

We wet the washcloth, wring it out and wash the tiles in a circular motion. There is no need to press the washcloth or move it along the seams - again, you will pick up a lot of unnecessary stuff.

Remember that you only have 35-45 minutes from stirring until it starts to harden. After an hour, it will be much more difficult to clean (this only applies to Mapei Ultracolor Plus; grout from other manufacturers may have different characteristics).

The water in the bucket gets dirty very quickly, so you will have to change it several times in order to get this result.

The finished end result is straight and smooth seams. The grout lies just below the plane of the tile (not lower than 1mm).

There is no need to make the seams very deep, it does not look very nice.

On the floor necessary work. This measure ensures additional protection coating, but it is important to choose the right material: seam joints must withstand the load placed on them, you should pay attention to mixtures with a low level of hygroscopicity. When applying, you need to adhere to certain rules, which will also help increase the service life of the grout. To flooring looked organic, the materials used should be selected according to color.

Best technology sealing of seam joints is based on the application special compounds, which allow you to protect the glue from moisture and chemicals. For this purpose, the following types of grout are used:

1. cement;
2. epoxy;
3. polymer (latex, silicone).

The first option is cheaper than its analogues and has a simple composition. Such materials are considered universal, because they are used for tiles different types. Cement grout is offered in two versions:

• with added sand;
• no sand.

The last of the varieties has no restrictions on use. Grout containing sand cannot be used to grout joints between enameled tiles. Small fractions will scratch products. Marble also does not tolerate contact well with cement grout containing sand. The downside of such mixtures is considered to be hygroscopicity. Modifiers can be added to improve properties.

Epoxy grout is durable, does not absorb moisture, and protects seam joints well from the effects of chemicals, which is important for flooring. It may contain epoxy or furan resin. These components help the mixture dry quickly. For this reason, it is better to clean the coating immediately after applying the grout, since after a while it will be impossible to remove it. There are combined materials - two-component. These include epoxy-cement grout.

Polymer mixtures are elastic and non-hygroscopic. Thanks to these properties, they reliably protect the coating from aggressive factors, do not deform, and withstand significant tensile and compression loads. Polymer grout (silicone) belongs to the group of sealants and is offered in a tube. Latex material can be used separately and as an additive for other mixtures.

How to choose depending on the cladding and operating conditions?

In everyday life, a cement-based composition is more often used. In rooms with high humidity, a mixture containing resins should be applied to the floor. It is important to remember that epoxy/furan grout must be removed from the tiles immediately. If the floor covering is regularly exposed to aggressive substances ( detergents etc.), it is recommended to use the same composition. However, epoxy and furan mixtures have varying degrees of resistance to chemicals various types.

Polymer grouts are more often used for bathroom floor tiles. They tolerate moisture well. However, there are temperature restrictions environment. Use in unsuitable conditions will result in partial or complete loss of properties. Almost all mixtures in this group can withstand temperatures up to +50°C.

Grouting ceramic tiles is universal. It is suitable for natural or artificial stone, porcelain tiles and other types of products. The exception is mixtures with fine-grained filler. Such substances are not used for grouting enameled tiles and marble.

Seam width

The farther the products are located from each other, the more reliable the grout should be. For wide joints (from 0.5 cm or more), mixtures containing sand are used. This increases the strength of the material. For narrow joints (up to 0.5 cm), any mixture that does not contain sand is suitable. Narrow seams between tiles (0.2-0.7 cm) are rubbed with silicone-containing substances. If this rule is not followed, the strength of the fastening is reduced.

Grouting of floor joints more than 1.2 cm wide is done using mixtures containing coarse fillers. For narrow seam joints (up to 0.3 cm) they are often used epoxy material. There are many options for filling seams; when choosing, you need to consider the type decorative covering, grout composition. If the tiles are square, it is better to leave a small distance between the products (up to 0.3 cm). In cases where tiles/porcelain tiles are characterized by an irregular shape, the seam joints should be wider. This measure allows you to hide unevenness.

Color selection

If there is no special preference, use Decoration Materials neutral shades. In this case white will do, beige grout. The mixture may be gray or brown. To obtain the appearance of a monolithic coating, the choice of grout color is made taking into account the shade of the tile. In this case, minor differences in the mixture are acceptable. However, the more it stands out against the background of the decorative coating, the weaker the monolithic effect will be. To emphasize the pattern elements on the floor, contrasting materials are used. It can be black or another richly colored mixture.

How to grout tiles on the floor?

The following tools are prepared for work:

1. rubber spatula;
2. piece of cable;
3. container for preparing the mixture.

The only materials you will need are the grout itself and a little water to wet the tiles. However, the liquid is used only if the seam joints of the tile covering are filled with a cement-based mixture. It is also necessary to prepare a cleaning agent, since some types of grout dry out instantly. This applies to epoxy mixtures. Polymer grout for joints does not set immediately.

Preparation

To the next stage of work (application protective composition to seam joints) you can switch to no earlier than 24 hours after the decorative coating has been laid on the floor. When necessary, they wait longer. It all depends on the type of glue used. Sometimes they move on to the next stage after a few days. If you quickly start finishing (grouting floor tiles), you can expect a deterioration in the quality of the decorative coating. In this case, the tile is displaced and pressed into the adhesive.

The process of rubbing seams begins with preparing the surface. It is necessary to remove cross-shaped beacons and excess mixture that was used to attach the decorative coating. To remove dust and small debris, use a broom or vacuum cleaner. If this is not done, the layer of grout used to process the joints will be uneven, with grains. Remove dust and debris using construction hair dryer, is not recommended, because in this case the contaminants will spread throughout the room and settle elsewhere.

Some people mistakenly believe that the cross-shaped beacons used during the installation process decorative material, should not be removed at the stage of applying the grout. If you act according to this opinion, the fugue will dry unevenly. There will be light spots at the beacon installation points.

Laying tiles

Select an adhesive composition. This must be done taking into account the type of decorative material. The adhesive layer can be applied in two ways: only on the floor or on the floor and tiles. This depends on the dimensions of the products. The distance between them is adjusted using cross-shaped beacons. The solution is applied with a spatula. The direction of installation is determined by the configuration of the room. It is recommended to start such work from the corner of the room that will be visible after furnishing. The next step is to grout the floor tiles. Pre-prepare the tools and mixture.

How to make grout yourself?

The process of performing such work is simple, but requires attention to detail. Sequencing:

• Prepare grout mixture for floor tile joints. It must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Even the slightest deviation from the technology will lead to a change in consistency, which can result in the material losing its properties.

• If you do the finishing of seam joints yourself, you need to prepare a special tool - a rubber spatula. With its help, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the tile coating and fill the seams as much as possible. On large areas a grout board is used.

• Cement, epoxy compounds and sealants are applied according to a similar principle. So, you need to use a little more mixture than necessary. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to fill pores and smallest cracks. To properly grout tiles, you need to be able to hold the tool. The spatula should be held at an angle. Its surface should be adjacent to the decorative coating across its entire width. Excess mixture will be removed by itself if you run a spatula along the edges of adjacent tiles. The coating must be wiped off immediately.

• The seams are being unstitched. To do this, use a piece of cable. It must be laid along the seam joint and pressed until it stops. This will remove excess mixture.

Before applying cement mixture, the edges of the decorative coating are moistened with water. Before using resin-based grout, the tiles are treated with wax. Selected for heated floors heat-resistant materials. To finish the self-leveling floor, you need to wait longer than a day.

Cleaning after application

Work begins some time after filling the seams. Just wait until the grout dries slightly. First, clean the areas that are more contaminated. In this case it is used mechanical method. The dried grout is removed with a rubber or plastic spatula. Then they move on to wet cleaning. Use water, a soft sponge and detergents.

To more quickly remove grout from the tile surface, use special means. They are toxic, so you need to wear gloves when working. If, when applying grout, the coating becomes slightly dirty, use improvised means: soap solution, dishwashing liquid.