How to lay a brick oven. Brick stove: design rules, masonry features and drawings. Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to provide heating at home, in a country house or in a cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency value reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include “heat consumers”, which take up a lot of thermal energy.

Brick stoves for home

Brick heating stoves are quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is the narrow scope of application - for heating rooms (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick stoves for the home are also sometimes called “Dutch stoves”.

Brick stoves for home

In houses and dachas, the most often used are “Dutch” ones, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves one to two times a day, you can easily ensure comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating stoves, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

in small Dutch ovens, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the location of bell-type smoke channels is at the top;
For large stoves, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the smoke channels are located on the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch oven for corner type home

Another type of heating stoves is “Dutch” corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these ovens are characterized by the fact that they occupy less space, which allows you to significantly increase the usable area of the room by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick kilns are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To warm 2 storey house or cottage, use two-tier brick heating stoves. An autonomous stove with its own firebox is installed on each floor.

Modern heating stoves include a grate. With this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place where wood is burned, in the volumes necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that fuel combustion occurs at an intensive rate and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems make it possible to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove flue circuit before being cooled by excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on combustion, and also improve efficiency.

A diagram for laying a stove for a home is the first thing that a person who decides to install heating in his home using a stove will need. In this material we will look at what layout schemes for home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

1. undercut;
2. with empty seams;

When arranging a stove using the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all seams are filled with mortar. The thickness of the kiln walls determines the way in which the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick and half a brick. Sometimes you can find a masonry of 3.4 bricks.
For work on the installation of the furnace, it is imperative to use stove brick. It is also called “red brick”, solid. Under no circumstances should you use bricks that have been taken from a dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

The first row is laid simply with bricks, without using mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall and the places where all the doors will be located are determined. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are completed, the bricks are laid with mortar.

After this, they begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, string is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate while working.

Considering the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which the following will be located: the ash pan, the combustion chamber, and the ash pan. The door under the ash pit is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row the ash pan is laid out.

After this, the firebox is arranged. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure good joining of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Because the facing brick and masonry bricks have different temperature characteristics, then the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be done rigidly. When installing a chimney pipe, care should be taken to install a special valve, the adjustment of which should be smooth and easy.

Brick stoves for the home - video instructions

Not a single village house can do without a stove, as it will both feed and heat. Today, gas pipelines have been installed in many villages, and it would seem possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you start studying a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should pass. Thanks to correct scheme their placement in the stove design, it will warm up evenly and release most of the heat into the room. It is better for novice craftsmen to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically such ovens have small size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with large area, and its design sometimes includes a bed, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include hob and serves only for heating the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

Having chosen the desired stove model, you need to look for it appropriate place. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, in the kitchen and dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and flat wall with well-made masonry it will become a designer decoration for the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be isolated from the stove non-flammable material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
It is not advisable to build a stove near an external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) different sizes- for applying the solution and removing excess excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help make the masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the selected furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For purely heating type no hob, oven cabinet, or water tank is required. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens.

4. Chimney damper.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

From others metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.

5. Heat-resistant material will also be needed for protective finishing of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tile for the floor.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed even layer over the entire area and left to harden.
After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour upper layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of ripening. cement mortar and will not allow cracks to form.

A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney channels and the structure of the firebox and vent.
For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, others additional functions it does not include:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

It can be called the neatest and most compact stove, suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
A grate is laid on the fifth row.

The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When passing chimney through attic floor, it must be insulated from it with combustible materials - this can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction. waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the stove, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

At the place where it will be installed, first install metal corners- they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the furnace structure, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The disadvantage of this installation is that there is less space left for hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even everyone experienced craftsman everything always turns out “excellent”. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

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For a long time, stoves for heating a home have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide “living” warmth; in addition, they are distinguished by their practicality and ease of use. solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private home are considered an ideal choice for country real estate. A high-quality heating structure can provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, the construction and repair of them was carried out by craftsmen - stove makers. Now, if they have certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to build a stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. We should not forget that the stove is a high-risk object.

Before you start self-construction heating units made of brick, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their design is simple (more details: " ");
Heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: " ");
for cooking, a special device is built into the heating structure kitchen stove, and, if desired, even an oven;
stoves-fireplaces - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to light them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, both in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: " ").

Do-it-yourself home stoves are distinguished by shape. For country houses Most often, rectangular, square or round designs are chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to settle on the optimal option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of fuel used, the stove must meet certain requirements fire safety. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

At independent arrangement stove heating it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place the structure in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the highest possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly releasing heat to the air.

In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will begin to actively move around the house. As a result, with this arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold “stretching” up their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you don’t have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a space that is rarely visited.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of heating stoves provide for the arrangement concrete floor or having your own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to accommodate the installation of the structure body and the walls supporting the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

Firebox. When you create a stove in your home with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It should accommodate the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for example, for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pit is equal to three bricks.
Chimney. One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When creating a stove for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend including big number turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve trouble-free for a long time if the mortar for masonry is properly prepared. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be at the same time viscous, strong and durable. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is filled with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of “clay milk” and only then added required amount sand (read also: " ").

The stove with your own hands will be durable and reliable design, will last for decades if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials are of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without following technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace laying process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Typically, bricklaying begins a month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time for the stove to be efficient and of high quality, and for the heating structure to last a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work of laying a brick kiln is carried out in several stages:

First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a cover. Typically, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
A grate is installed above the ash pan. Then they begin to install the firebox, which is lined from the inside with fireclay bricks, placing it on the edge. When making the solution, sand and fireclay clay are used. The fire door is secured with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
On the 12th row of brickwork, you should block the combustion chamber and then, using a level, install a cast-iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first cap and channel intended for summer movement are laid.
After the installation of the slabs is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
In the cooking chamber, in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for lighting the stoves.
In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are blocked. It is necessary to leave holes in the solid brickwork for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer passage and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
The portal at the cooking chamber should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. A good solution would be to equip the doors with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. Read also: "".
After covering the cooking chamber and the lower hood using two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places for use to help remove soot.
The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top point of the wall opening. At the top the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
If you are making a stove yourself, place a decorative band along its upper perimeter and begin installing a pipe that removes flue gases. The ideal solution counts brick chimney, since over time metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. Read also: "".

An original DIY stove is shown in the video:

Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating your home and cottage

Even a novice mason can easily build a brick oven for a home with his own hands. Due to the abundance and accessibility of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with the order and detailed description all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's take a closer look at how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The furnace starts from the foundation

Even a small brick oven built with your own hands in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to place it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Need to pay Special attention to ensure that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid distortion of the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove maker.

Two layers of roofing material, glassine or durable construction film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. Placed on top of the waterproofing steel sheet and a layer of heat insulation (so that heat does not escape into the foundation). The bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid on this whole “pie” for the future brick oven with your own hands.

Preparation of mortar for stove masonry

Unlike an ordinary wall, a brick stove is built with your own hands not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. Compositions of solutions for fireclay and ceramic bricks differ considerably.

Mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high fire resistance and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for preparing fireproof masonry mortar usually purchased in retail chains.

Mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared using ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many construction supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. bricks will require about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batches. This is done as follows:

The clay is soaked for a day in cold water.
The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each part, respectively.
All resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
If cracks larger than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is unsuitable.
With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, this solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good oven clay, the essence of the tests comes down to determining the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.

DIY brick oven for home video

Brick laying technology

The furnace diagram provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high percentage of successful results. A do-it-yourself brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allocated for the oven is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it weighs very little.

Laying the stove begins from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, you can pour thin layer washed river or mountain sand. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will serve as an additional heat insulator.

Basics of choosing building materials

The thickness of the mortar between bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the smoothest bricks with same sizes- since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. The door is secured with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut into the brick using a grinder for it.

The third row is laid out from fireclay bricks. The grate bars are placed on it after the clay has set.

The fourth row of stoves is laid on edge. If the grate bars do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring 3 mm gaps on all sides.

When laying a brick stove, it is important to know!

The rear “kick-out” brick is installed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similar to the ash room, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the ninth row. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Using a cord to seal masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble due to thermal expansion cast iron stove.

The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After the masonry has completely dried, the “knockout” brick is pulled out and construction debris is removed from the channel. To prevent sand from spilling out from under the stove, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick stoves for summer cottages video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

The chimney for this stove will be any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm diameter for round section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the combustion chamber grate is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be increased by 25-50 cm.

Brick oven finishing

The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fat milk can be added to the water as a binder. And regular blue will help prevent yellowness from appearing.

If you are deciding how to fold the oven more high level- choose one of available options its improvement:

covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
external metal screen;
decorative jointing or painting the seams with heat-resistant paint.

Laying with bricks and tiles should be planned in advance, since during the construction process the external elements are connected with the masonry. This job requires great experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove makers. Metal screen It is better to install it not closely, but at some distance from the body of the stove. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating the room.

Bottom line

Knowing how to build a stove in your house with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.

The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. When searching on the Russian Internet, Dutch, Swedish, bathhouse (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. appear. You can even find statements that say that there was once an outstanding stove designer, Grub.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. A do-it-yourself rough oven is easier to build than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude buildings are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where there is some excess fuel consumption in absolute and in monetary terms Doesn't break the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The rough-slab is compact, least material-intensive, lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough slabs are installed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its load-bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf/sq. m.

A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. Current circuit flue gases in rough form with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the article.

Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.

Why is it rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. Heat calculation efficient oven is very complex and requires quite deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under the hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.

A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into mechanical energy, which will successfully fly out into the chimney. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield operates on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose of the rough heating panels, they are made different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a brownie heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rough - compactness and the ability to build in existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:

Furnace foundation.
Masonry mortars.
Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but rubble should only be laid on completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker fit highest quality– light red color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:

If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Accessories

Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) in in this case unsuitable. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.

It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press lightly at first, place it at the desired angle (from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry must remain at least 12 mm). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grates and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.

On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner hob is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option more suitable for a hunting lodge or a summer cottage where weekends are spent in winter.

Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is located on the back side (back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already quite complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for the rough must satisfy all fire safety regulations. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.