How to make 2 shades in a chandelier. Connecting a chandelier to a double switch. Building or extending wires when connecting a chandelier

Various connection scheme options

The connection diagram will depend on how many wires come out of the chandelier and how many wires are connected to it along the ceiling. Therefore, several options are possible.

• phase of the first group of lamps;
• second group phase;
• common neutral wire.

These wires, taking into account the marking and purpose, are connected to three wires running along the ceiling.

This connection diagram, in its essence, completely corresponds to the one in which three wires pass along the ceiling, and three or more are taken out of the chandelier. The fourth wire is the ground wire accepted in modern electrical installation practice. In the chandelier connection manual, this wire will be designated as “PE”. Therefore, you simply need to connect the yellow-green wires to each other, and perform the rest of the installation according to the scheme described above. If an old-style chandelier is installed, it may not have grounding. Therefore, the yellow-green wire on the ceiling is cut and carefully insulated. However, the purpose of the fourth wire on the ceiling may be different if it is used as another phase. This circuit is used to connect to a three-key switch, which allows you to control three groups of lamps on a chandelier at once.

The final stage - we put the wires into the switch

The switch is always installed on the phase wire, opening it or distributing it for each phase in the chandelier (when using multi-key switches). Grounding wires, if any are present in the apartment or house electrical wiring, bypass the switch and directly to the chandelier.

As a rule, one-, two- and three-key switches are available for sale. Their connection diagram will be slightly different, so it is necessary to consider three options.

1. Connecting a single-key switch.

This circuit is the simplest and only allows you to light and turn off all the lamps in the chandelier at the same time. It is used when there are two supply wires on the ceiling, regardless of the number of wires coming out of the chandelier.

The direct connection of the switch will involve mounting it on the wall and connecting it to the phase wire break. You can determine this wire at the connection point by successively touching the input wires with an indicator screwdriver. Upon contact with the phase on the screwdriver, the indicator will glow noticeably. If the indicator is not lit, this means it is connected to the neutral wire.

2. Connection to two-button switch.

Here the connection diagram will be complicated by the presence of two phases for two groups of lamps in the chandelier. Therefore, at the water point, a phase is connected to the switch in the manner discussed above. At the output of the switch there will already be two outputs. These will be the phases for each group of lamps. They should be connected to the corresponding wires running along the ceiling to the chandelier.

3. Connecting a chandelier to a three-key switch.

Similar switches are used to control multi-light chandeliers, in which it is possible to distribute the lamps into three independent groups. Accordingly, the presence of one more free core should be provided in the ceiling wiring, if we compare the diagram with the connection of a two-key switch. The remaining actions will be similar: a phase is supplied to the input of the switch, and phases for each of the three groups of lamps are connected to the output.

When installing the switch, you must carefully follow all safety regulations. Otherwise, renovations to your apartment could turn into a tragedy. Therefore, all work on laying wires, installing switches on walls and connecting wires on the ceiling should be performed only when the power is turned off. You can verify that it is disconnected using the same indicator screwdriver. At the entry point, when it is connected to all of the existing wires, the indicator should not light up.

In general, it is quite possible to connect a chandelier yourself even with minimal skills as an electrician. To do this, you should adhere to only a small list of rules:

• carry out installation only with the power supply turned off;
• even before starting, thoroughly study the connection diagram;
• try to use as few extensions and wire connections as possible, giving preference to solid cables.

The result will be safe and long-term operation of chandeliers with any number of arms in the most comfortable lighting conditions.

Short video with the connection process

A chandelier is one of those interior items that people begin to become familiar with almost from birth. A baby lying in a stroller or crib looks with interest at a beautiful glowing device on the ceiling. Any a large room in an apartment or house it must be equipped with a chandelier, which is fixed in the center of the ceiling. It not only becomes an interior decoration, but also allows you to evenly distribute the lighting load throughout the room. To vary the illumination of a room, chandeliers with 5 or more bulbs are most often used. Such lamps will be discussed in this article. Let's talk about how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires, what is needed for such work and can this be done by a person without special electrical engineering education?

Device

The modern market offers a wide range of lighting fixtures with intricate designs, big amount LEDs or lamps, with remote controls remote control. However, most people still prefer to install a five-arm chandelier in their living rooms.

If such a chandelier is connected to a single switch, this will entail a large consumption of electricity. Agree, it is not always necessary for all five horns to glow in the room; sometimes two or three are enough. Therefore, the most popular connection diagram for a chandelier with a double switch is considered. It is this kind of circuit that we will talk about below, and before connecting the chandelier to a household two-key switch, let’s figure out what such a lamp consists of and how it is designed.

First of all, this is a basic design with 5 horns. Regardless of where the lamps will be directed (down or up), the mounting of sockets and lampshades with horns is carried out in the same way - using threaded connections. Each horn at the end looks like a threaded tube; a decorative cap is attached to it using a nut. But very often the fastening occurs due to the bottom of the cartridge, which is screwed onto the horn thread. You need to connect the wires and screw the light bulbs into the socket; this is where their direct contact occurs. Lampshades serve to diffuse light and also perform decorative function, most often they are made of metal, glass or plastic.

The wires on the chandelier most often go inside metal structure. The lampshades are attached to the lamp body using latches, bolts or a plastic ring that is screwed onto the thread of the socket. A 2-wire wire runs from each socket inside the horn to the connection box of the lamp.

You can install a variety of lamps on a chandelier - incandescent, fluorescent, LED, energy-saving.

A power supply or ballast for starting LED and fluorescent lamps can also be installed in the chandelier body.

There are chandeliers equipped with reflectors that have white or mirror surface and create directional light.

You can learn more about how to choose a chandelier and lamps for it in this video:

Tool

Before connecting a chandelier with three wires, prepare the necessary tools:

1. Indicator screwdriver (it will be needed to determine phase and zero).
2. Pliers with insulated handles.
3. Knife (to remove insulation on conductors).
4. Multimeter.
5. Insulating tape.
6. Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).
7. Wire cutters.
8. Marker.

Devices with which the wires will be connected. These can be special blocks in which the connected wire is clamped under a screw, spring or connecting insulating clamps (PIC). Well, don’t forget, of course, about the stepladder.

Purpose of wires

Before connecting an indoor chandelier with a two-key switch, let's figure out how many wires we need and why each of them is needed.

example of instructions for assembling a chandelier (click to enlarge)

Any lighting device must have a passport with the diagram indicated in it. Study it carefully, it describes the purpose of the wires by color. As a rule, the phase is made in white or brown, the blue wire means zero, and there may be a third protective ground wire, it is usually made green or yellow. In total, 4 wires should come out of the chandelier - zero, protective grounding and 2 phases.

If there is no passport for the lighting device, then we will decide for ourselves where the phase is and where the zero is.

So, you have a hole in the ceiling from which three wires protrude, one of them is neutral, and the other 2 are phase wires from a two-key switch. If your chandelier has a protective grounding, then there will be a separate fourth wire for this.

1. Turn off the power supply to the apartment and set the double switch keys to the “Off” position.
2. To avoid short circuits, separate the three wires that stick out from the ceiling at a distance from each other to the sides.
3. Remove the insulation from each core by about 1 cm.
4. Apply voltage by turning on the circuit breaker and then the switch. Touch each core with an indicator screwdriver; the one on which the indicator does not light up will be zero. Mark it with a marker.
5. Now turn off the keys on the switch one by one and check the presence of the corresponding phase.

Determine the purpose of the cores in the lamp using a multimeter:

1. To begin, set the device to the “Dial” mode and short-circuit the probes for 1 second. An audible signal should sound, this means that you have chosen the correct measurement limit and the device is working.
2. The socket has 2 contacts, one of them is phase, it is springy and is located in the center, the second is zero, it is located on the side (when the light bulb is screwed in, it touches it with its base).
3. Also strip 1 cm of all four wires extending from the chandelier.
4. Now we need to find the zero core. Place one multimeter probe on the zero (side) contact in any of the cartridges. Using the second probe, touch the stripped wires in turn. As soon as you hear sound signal, which means this core is the zero core, also mark it with a marker.
5. In a similar way, determine the correspondence of the two phase conductors extending from the lamp. This time, use the multimeter probe to touch the central phase contacts in the sockets one by one. In a five-arm chandelier, one phase core is connected to three sockets, and the second goes to the remaining two.
6. To check the grounding wire, you need to touch it with one probe and the metal body of the lamp with the other; a sound signal will confirm the correct choice.

Single-key switch circuit

First, let's look at a simpler diagram - how to connect a three-arm chandelier with 3 wires. Here are three detailed step by step instructions. First, check the equipment of your lamp:

1. Having opened the original packaging, immediately find the list of kits included in the chandelier and check the list for the presence of all components.
2. Find the bracket that will attach the chandelier to the ceiling. It is a strip that is directly screwed to wooden base in the ceiling, and the chandelier cover will be attached to this bar.
3. Check the presence and integrity of all lampshades.
4. Next, there should be a device (you can call it a chandelier connection box) in which the wires will be disconnected, three horns are attached to it, and this mechanism itself is connected to the bracket cover. A double wire (phase and neutral conductors) is pulled through this device. One end of it will be connected to the phase and neutral conductors, which come out of the hole in the ceiling, the second end is intended to connect to the conductors in the horns.
5. Usually the third grounding wire comes separately with the lamp. On the metal case (most often on the lid) a special icon indicates the place where the protective grounding should be connected.
6. Check for the presence of three horns; cartridges should be attached to them and a phase and neutral conductor should come out of each.

Now let's look at how to connect the wires in a chandelier:

1. Take one horn and the connection box of the lamp where the connection will be made. Two wires come out of the horn (blue - zero, brown - phase). Pull them through one of the three holes and secure the horn.
2. Do similar actions with the other two horns.
3. As a result, in the connection box of the lamp there were 6 wires from the horns - three blue and three brown, and a double 2-core wire that will be used to connect to the network.
4. Strip the insulation on all 6 wires from the horns and on the double wire.
5. Connect the three blue wires to one core of the double wire, and in the same way connect the three brown wires to the second core of the double wire. Do this using twisting, you can also solder it on top. Put on the insulating caps, as a rule, they are included in the kit.
6. Carefully lay all the wires in the connection box of the chandelier and close the lid on top.
7. Connect the protective ground wire at the indicated location.

All that remains is to connect our chandelier with three wires to the network:

1. Before starting the electrical part of the work, de-energize the room by turning off the power supply.
2. Secure to wooden structure a mounting frame in the ceiling using ordinary wood screws. This must be done as firmly and reliably as possible, because the bar will have to withstand total weight chandeliers.
3. To avoid having to redo anything later, immediately try on the lamp, lightly tightening the decorative bolts. Look, if you are satisfied with everything, then unscrew the bolts and start connecting the wires.
4. It is advisable to do this work with a partner, so that one person can hold the lamp to be connected, and the other can handle the connection. If there is no partner, then secure the lamp to the installed bar, tightly tying it with a cord or a piece of strong wire.
5. Start by putting self-clamping terminal blocks on the wires sticking out of the hole in the ceiling. Then connect the corresponding lamp cores to them.
6. Now turn on the machine and switch to check proper operation. If all three lamps light up, turn off the switch, the circuit breaker and finish the job by finally screwing the lamp to the bar.

Now you know how to properly connect a chandelier with three arms, let's look at a more complex option - connecting a chandelier to a double switch.

Scheme with a two-key switch

Connecting a five-arm chandelier to a household two-key switch is done in the same way.

1. A neutral wire comes from the distribution box, which is laid to the lamp; all five neutral wires from each lamp will be connected to it.
2. The phase conductor from the box approaches the two-key switch; two conductors extend from it, which will supply voltage to one and the second group of light bulbs.
3. In the distribution box, the neutral and phase conductors are connected to the phase and neutral of the supply network.
4. In the connection box of the lamp, instead of 6 wires, as in the three-arm version, there will now be 10 wires (5 phases and 5 zeros).

All five blue neutral wires in the lamp must be connected into one common bundle. And from the phase conductors, form two connecting harnesses - one of three brown conductors from light bulbs, the second, respectively, of two. That is, when one key of the switch is turned on, three lamps will light up, and when the second key is turned on, two will light up.

There are three wires in the connection box of the chandelier. Some ends are brought out to the upper part and will be connected to the wires connected to the hole in the ceiling to the place where the lamp is attached. Connect the other ends this way:

• Blue neutral conductor with a connecting harness of five neutral conductors of all lamps.
• One phase conductor, for example brown, with a connecting harness for the phase conductors of three lamps.
• The second phase conductor, for example, is white, with a connecting harness for the phase conductors of two lamps.

From the hole in the ceiling, in the place where the lamp will be fixed, you have three stripped wires sticking out. Connect them respectively to the phase and neutral conductors of the chandelier. In the case of protective grounding of the lamp, there will be a fourth wire and connection.

You see that, by analogy with more simple option, connecting a chandelier to a double switch is also easy. More information about connecting the chandelier can be seen in this video:

I would like to give little advice about inexpensive Chinese chandeliers. Immediately after purchase, check all wiring for integrity. They often have the entire electrical part already assembled in the connection box of the chandelier; check the reliability of the contacts. It would be a shame if such a huge amount of work had to be redone later.

Now you know how to connect a chandelier with 5 or 6 arms to double switch. Basically, if there are basic knowledge in electrical engineering, this will not be difficult for you to do. But you can save a little on calling a professional electrician.

Nowadays it’s rare to see a light bulb hanging alone from the ceiling. Everyone wants to live in a beautiful environment and, in an effort to decorate their home, purchase multi-arm chic chandeliers. But here's the problem - you have to pay more for electricity!

But this only happens to those owners who choose such chandeliers incorrectly or connect them to a single-key switch, and in this case all the lamps turn on at once.

A competent and thrifty owner will make the right choice and connect the chandelier to two-key switch so that you can turn on one lamp or several or all at once, if the occasion requires it.

Choosing a chandelier.

If only two wires come out of the chandelier you have chosen, then such a chandelier is usually connected to a single-key switch. Although you can remake it yourself for a two-key one.

If three wires come out of the chandelier, then this is what you need.

There is also a third option - this is when many wires come out of the chandelier, connected in pairs. This is also your option.

What is the difference between the second and third options?

In the third option, each pair of wires is connected to a separate lamp, which gives you the opportunity to create lamp combinations yourself. In the second option, the choice is small - usually either one lamp or several or all at once are turned on, depending on what circuit the chandelier manufacturer has assembled.

The second condition for the possibility of connecting a chandelier to a two-key switch is the presence of three wires suitable both for the switch and coming out of the ceiling. There are also cases when a cable with four wires goes to the place where the chandelier is suspended. One of them is usually yellow-green (this is grounding) and such cables are laid in houses new construction. It happens that chandeliers also have a wire of the same color - these wires must be connected to each other. If there is no fourth wire in the chandelier, then simply insulate it in the supply cable with electrical tape.

If suddenly in your house it turns out that only two wires go to the place where the chandelier is suspended ("phase" and "zero"), but you still want to connect the chandelier to a two-key switch, then this is also possible, but then you will have to do it yourself in some way connect another wire there or replace the existing wiring with a three-core cable.

So, we checked the wiring, decided on the choice of chandelier - it’s time to start installation.

To work you will need:

3-core cable;

regular screwdriver;

indicator screwdriver;

pliers or side cutters;

insulating tape;

Installation and connection.

To begin, use an indicator screwdriver to identify and mark the phase wire suitable for the switch. To do this, we touch the bare ends of the wires one by one. The light in the indicator lights up - therefore, this is a phase and this wire must be connected to the corresponding contact of the switch. A three-key switch will always have three contacts - one common, to which the phase is connected, and two others, from which the voltage will be transmitted directly to the chandelier through the installation box.

Now we need to move on to determining the phase wire on the ceiling. To do this, turn on both keys of the switch, alternately touch the exposed ends of the wires with an indicator screwdriver: the indicator lights up - it means phase, if it doesn’t light up, then “zero”. If installed correctly, there should be two phases and one zero.

Mark in some way where the phases are and where the “zero” is and you can proceed directly to connecting the chandelier.

All the wires of the same color coming out of the chandelier are collected into one bundle and connected to the “zero”, and you can group the remaining wires together as you wish, depending on the switching scheme you have chosen, and connect these groups to the phase wires.

Insulate all twisted areas with electrical tape. If desired, they can be pre-soldered for more reliable contact.

To avoid some connection errors, watch this video.

VERY IMPORTANT ADDENDUM!!!

When installing wiring NECESSARILY turn off the voltage.

Turn it on in compliance with all safety precautions electric shock This is only possible when identifying phase conductors and during a final check of the installation.

After reading the title of the article, someone will probably say, “why about this?” something like that write, any apartment owner can handle this kind of work himself.” Yes, of course, installing and connecting a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in the apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if not installed correctly, installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting device is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two areas - ensuring correct connection it to the electrical network and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

find out useful information, from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting device, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, we must not forget about some other aspects of choice.

• The total light output of the chandelier must correspond to the size and type of room for which it is intended. There are certain standards of illumination, which can be briefly presented as follows:

— For rooms where soft diffused, dim light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), you should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W/m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bath, toilet) or where installation is intended additional lighting specific jobs (office or children's room) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W/m².

— For rooms with bright lighting (living room), this figure is taken equal to 20 W/m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting device with the required number of horns should be selected. Important nuance– in no case should you increase the overall illumination by using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. Material of lampshades, sockets, cross-section internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, on the contrary, one that is too small will simply get lost on the ceiling plane of a vast room. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

— The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D – diameter of the chandelier in centimeters

L And S – length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m the best option there will be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference ceiling version lighting device, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. Hanging option would be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold disassembled, so Special attention completeness, matching threads on all collapsible parts, integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and clear instructions for product installation.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality products and outright fakes. famous brands. Such products may be equipped with cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures. They will give out a counterfeit product due to poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisted wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out reconnection of wires, their unsoldering and insulation according to all the rules. This is especially true for “sophisticated” chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra hassle, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical “stuffing”, ask the store to assemble and check the functionality of the product.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lamps

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

Dealing with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

We will not look specifically at this in this article. complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions in the field of home electrical wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out through two wires - phase and neutral. If the house has a grounding loop (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often, in new buildings this issue is provided for in advance), then a third wire connected to the grounding bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking for wires in a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance is that if the neutral wire is always blue or blue in color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire can vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting devices, to switch different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and house wiring should use the same color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

When working with electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to safety measures. It is strictly forbidden to touch exposed wires with unprotected hands unless the switch is turned off. general nutrition networks. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work near the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable base - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes the best option there will be a stepladder installed on a rubber mat.

1. So, the simplest option is a cable with two wires coming out of a hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, the neutral must go directly to the distribution box, and the phase must be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “don’t bother” with these issues.

• To check, you need to have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it comes in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have other designs, including even with indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment at the distribution panel. This is necessary in order to thoroughly strip the wires of insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are spread as far apart as possible to prevent short circuits. After this, turn on the machine on the dashboard.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked sequentially. Neither should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, it means the wiring in the house is not done correctly - the “zero” on the switch, apparently, is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - you just need to keep this in mind, taking special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored electrical tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling the holes should be the appropriate number phase wires. The test is carried out in the same way as described above, with each phase marked separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - simply to eliminate mistakes by the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier has one or two or three arms, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - neutral and phase. If there is a ground wire, it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the event that it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue “zero” wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often on chandeliers this can be seen quite clearly, and special labor such commutation will not work.

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the design of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, you can figure it out here too by calling all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the sockets (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and experimentally find out which horn is powered from which wire. After this, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of the circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all sockets, but in practice it is probably easier to simply ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and groups of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: diagram of connecting a five-arm chandelier to a two-key switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything has become clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of operation depends on both the design of the chandelier and the type ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of installing chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In old multi-storey buildings hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling openings during the construction phase. If it’s standing, then there’s less of a problem; however, it doesn’t hurt to still test it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load can be easily withstood, then there should be no special concerns.

What to do if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? It's okay, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw can be easily screwed into it.

There can be various solutions with a concrete floor slab:

— You can hang the hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the slab. When doing this, be careful not to damage the wiring running there with the rod.

— Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a butterfly lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

— If this option is not possible, for example, in the case where there is no “standard” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill into concrete floor a hole for a plastic dowel, but it’s better still for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it would be useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If, when drilling, an internal cavity of the slab is encountered, use a special metal dowel for hollow-core structures – with screwing it in forms a “skirt” that securely holds the fastening element in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. It is recommended to then insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter on it, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier using the standard mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply to the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected using terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks may occur on them and the insulation will melt. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram described above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually covered with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch to immediately make sure there are no short circuits. It doesn’t hurt to check with an indicator that there is no phase on the metal body of the chandelier. If everything is normal, then with the switch keys turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed in or inserted into the socket and the practical functionality of all chandelier arms is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can begin the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those intended for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screws. fastening elements on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This significantly improves the reliability of the overall installation, since the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting strip can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The strip may be straight or curved, with brackets to secure the light fixture housing, or with protruding studs or screws.

The set with particularly heavy chandeliers may include cross-shaped strips or in the form of a reinforced I-beam profile.

The strip may have a hole with grommet-lined edges to accommodate wires coming out of the ceiling. You can also place the bar in close proximity to the cable exit point - the housing installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring connections.

The mounting strip is attached to the ceiling plane different ways, depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a pressure head “under hide».

Just as when using a hook, the reliability of the fastening under load must be checked.

Quite often a situation occurs when placing the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure reliable installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So optimal choice fasteners and installation locations still remain with the direct performer of the work.

Attaching the chandelier itself to the mounting plate may also have its own characteristics. In this case, you may need help - the lamp will have to be held suspended while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the chandelier body is secured to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was outlined above.

Features of attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

By by and large, you should plan the placement of the chandelier even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or several additional metal profiles for attaching a mounting strip or is installed a hook that can then be easily extended using a chain or barbell. IN plasterboard sheet immediately marked and drilled into in the right place hole for wires and hook to exit.

But what to do if this issue of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the case when the lighting device is of a pendant type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the gypsum plasterboard - its strength is unlikely to be sufficient for a point load. You can do this as follows:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, with a long drill installed in a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening.

An anchor with a long threaded pin is inserted and fixed as far as possible in the hole made, so that the pin extends out beyond the plane of the drywall.

An eye-nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, from which the chandelier itself will later be suspended. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - that’s it Also, as when working on a regular ceiling, only the fastening elements do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it goes out.

• If the chandelier is of a cantilever type, that is, installed on a mounting plate, then much depends on its weight.

— In the case when the total weight of the fixture does not exceed 3–5 kg, the bar can be attached directly to the gypsum fiber board sheet. For this purpose, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

The first ones are held as a result of thrust plastic construction under a sheet of drywall when screwing in a self-tapping screw. The second has a different principle of operation - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwed in. The “snail” is screwed in completely, flush with the surface of the gypsum plasterboard, in the right place, and in its center there remains a hole into which a regular self-tapping screw can easily fit.

— If the chandelier is heavier, then to attach the mounting strip you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become fasteners for a rack or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from installing a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: option for attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for various types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

None practical advice There will be no instructions on how to independently install a chandelier on a suspended ceiling - this should only be done by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling sheet.

Read detailed information, about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall at the planned height of the stretched fabric. Based on the location of this embedded platform, craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, strengthening their edges through which wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to independently cut holes in order to hang a chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using working techniques like plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. The deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need complete replacement canvases.

After the ceiling craftsmen have completed the work, leaving the necessary holes for the chandelier and fasteners, reinforced with special grommets, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care, so as to in no case allow the surface to rupture or puncture.

On a suspended ceiling, it is preferable to use a suspended one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, “halogens” or fluorescent “housekeepers” are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly ruin the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: example of installing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

Owners, wanting to equip their home with a new, more attractive light source, enthusiastically choose chandeliers and lamps. If everything is simple with lamps and sconces, just plug it into a socket and it works, then questions may arise with the chandelier. However, after the purchase is made, the following mandatory steps will be:

• assembly of the chandelier, how long this stage will last depends on the complexity of the chandelier design,
• installation of a chandelier on the ceiling.

You can assemble the chandelier in a relatively short time if you follow the instructions in the attached file and use basic tools. But how to connect the chandelier correctly, is that a question?

To plug ceiling chandelier It’s not a difficult matter, but in order to do it correctly you need to have knowledge in the field of electrical engineering. Most people do not know how to do this, since they have been studying the laws of physics for quite a long time. It turns out that you will have to seek help from a person who knows how to connect a chandelier or a professional. Or get acquainted with the safety rules when installing a chandelier.

1. First of all, when starting work, you need to turn off the power supply to the room in which the chandelier will be installed. (In other words, turn off the power that goes to the wires sticking out of the ceiling; for this, it is not enough to turn the switch to the off position; experts recommend turning off the circuit breakers located on the panel).
2. Prepare the wires for testing; to do this, they must be disconnected. This is done to prevent them from touching. The wires must be labeled in accordance with the accepted markings, the letter N denotes the neutral wire, and the Latin phase - L. Using an indicator screwdriver, alternately touching the bare areas, you can determine which of the wires is supplied with which type of power. When the LED lights up upon contact with the wire, this is a phase and should be noted, since voltage passes through it.
3. After the wires have been sorted out, the power supply is turned off again and only after that the installation work begins. It is better to use terminal clamps to connect wires,

they are much more effective than traditional twisting, although it is quite acceptable to use it. Only in this case is it necessary to protect the twisting area with protective caps.

Protect the twist with insulating tape or PVC tapes It’s not worth it, it dries out over time, which significantly reduces its characteristics.

There are several options for connecting a chandelier, which determine how exactly the chandelier will be connected.

• On the number of wires that come out of the chandelier;
• From the number of wires that stick out from the chandelier;
• Depending on the number of keys on the switch.

This article describes in detail various chandelier connection diagrams that will tell you how to connect a chandelier of exactly the design you have chosen.

Option No. 1 Two wires on the ceiling and two wires on the chandelier.

The easiest option for installing a chandelier. It is he who requires virtually no effort. For this case, it is enough to connect two wires from the chandelier to the wires on the ceiling. Before making a connection, you must determine where the phase is and where the zero is. In this case, when installing a chandelier, it does not matter in what sequence the wires are connected.

a) Diagram of how to connect a chandelier with one bulb to a single-key switch.

The diagram shows exactly how the chandelier is connected. The wire carrying zero charge is indicated by blue, which comes from distribution panel must be connected to the neutral wire of the lighting fixture. The brown wire is a phase; it must be connected not only to the chandelier, but also to the switch.

b) Diagram of how to connect a chandelier with two or three bulbs to a single-key switch.

Before connecting a chandelier with two or three bulbs to a switch with one button, you should connect all the neutral wires coming from it, and only then with those coming from the junction box. In a similar way, you should connect the wires with the phase to each other, and only then with the one that comes from the switch.

Option No. 2 Two wires on the chandelier and three wires on the ceiling.

In modern buildings, wiring is laid from a three-core cable, in which the wires are painted different colors. Thus, we get the following picture: three wires go to the place where the chandelier is attached. How to connect a chandelier in this case, since there are only two of them? The first step is to use an indicator to determine which wire is on the ceiling. Usually two of them are a phase, and the third is a neutral conductor. The presence of two phase wires indicates that this chandelier can be connected to a two-key switch. But since in in this case If we are considering a chandelier with two wires, it is quite acceptable to use a single-key switch. In this case, you must do the following: de-energize the area and isolate one of the phase wires. And after this, the chandelier is installed on the ceiling according to the previously described method.

Option No. 3 Three or more wires on the chandelier and two wires on the ceiling

In the case when only two wires come out of the ceiling, there is only one option for installing a chandelier, and this does not depend on how many wires stick out from it, all the light bulbs on it will light up at the same time. The sequence of actions when connecting is very simple: combine all the neutral wires together and then connect them to the wire of the same name on the ceiling. The same actions are done with phase wires.

Option No. 4 Three or more wires on the chandelier and three wires on the ceiling.

For this connection method, it is assumed to use a switch with two keys. It is this approach that ensures rational lighting in work area rooms, and combine the order and number of lamps turned on. In this case, the wires coming out of the ceiling are usually marked as follows:

Phase wire L1

Phase wire L2

Neutral wire N

Since when laying electrical wiring the color scheme of the connection is not always followed, and also depending on the type of cable that is used for wiring, it is necessary to check the purpose of each wire using an indicator screwdriver. If there is no indicator, then you can disassemble the switch and inspect the connection sequence. And determine what color wires go from the switch to the ceiling, which phase wires will go to the switch, and the neutral wire from the panel goes directly to the chandelier.

We should not forget that all work with electrical wiring is carried out only when the power supply is turned off. Connecting this type of chandelier to a two-key switch differs only in that all the wires that come from the lamps must first be divided into two groups. It is this connection method that allows you to turn on one group of lamps when you press one switch key, and connect the rest when you press another.

Connecting in this form makes it possible to connect one button to turn on both one and several lamps.

This example demonstrates connecting two lamps to one switch key, and when switched on using another, three steel ones will be switched on.

And this example demonstrates connecting three lamps to each switch key.

It is quite possible to connect a chandelier of 6 arms in such a way that one button turns on 5 lamps at once, and the second turns on one. If the chandelier you purchased larger number The horns are connected according to the principle already described; it is enough to distribute the lamps into groups and connect them to a specific switch key.

Option No. 5 Three or more wires on the chandelier and four on the ceiling.

If the electrical wiring was laid relatively recently, then it is quite possible that a ground wire is provided in this case. It performs a protective function. This wire is usually yellow Brown color, it is usually marked PE - which means grounding conductor. The remaining wires are phases L1 and L2, and the wire carrying zero charge. If the design of the chandelier provides a grounding wire, it must be connected to the wire of the same name that comes out of the ceiling. If there is no grounding wire, then the one that comes out of the ceiling must simply be insulated.

How to connect several chandeliers to one switch?

There is a specific scheme for this type of connection. All chandeliers must be connected parallel connection. That is, each of the chandeliers can be connected through separately located distribution boxes, or in one, it depends on the distribution of electrical wiring in the room. This is the most common way to connect kitchen, toilet and bathroom lighting to one switch. This is very convenient, as it allows you to turn on the lighting in the desired room from the corridor.

How to connect a chandelier to two different switches?

In order to make this type of connection, you will have to purchase special pass-through switches. They differ from conventional switches in their design features and the presence wiring diagrams three contacts. If you connect the contacts as indicated in the diagram, this will allow you to control the lighting according to two switches at once.

The figure shows that the pass-through switch has three contacts:

1. common, which provides an output for connecting to a chandelier or to a wire with a phase
2. with their help, switches of a similar type are connected to each other.

Due to the design features, such a connection must be thought out in advance, or you will have to lay an additional wire and make additional cosmetic repairs.

Halogen lamps - the advantages of their use and connection diagrams.

It is no secret that using halogen lamps is much more profitable than incandescent lamps. Not only because of their efficiency in terms of electricity consumption, but also because of the wide range of products on the market. The lighting from such lamps remains as bright as when using incandescent lamps, if not many times brighter. Halogen lamps are low voltage lamps of 24, 12, and 6 Volts.

The only mandatory requirement when connecting such lamps is the installation of a special step-down transformer in order to convert 220 W. to the nominal value requested by the bulbs.

In order to connect several halogen lamps to one switch, they must first be connected in parallel to each other.

Transformers, thanks to their small sizes, easily fit into the suspended ceiling frame.

Depending on the planned ceiling design, the number of lamps and transformers may vary. It is important to remember that each step-down transformer must be connected to the network separately. Laying a new electrical wiring line. The wires to them will converge in one junction box.

Such transformers have special features; they must be located at a distance of at least 20 cm from heat sources. Experts also recommend not to exceed the length of the wires coming out of them by a distance of more than 2-2.5 m. If they are broken, this may affect the brightness of the halogen lamps.

Chandelier with remote control - luxury or convenience?

The latest developments in the field of lighting are chandeliers with a lighting remote control, which includes all control elements.

Undoubtedly, positive sides The chandelier, which is controlled via a remote control, will allow you to turn off the light without getting up from the sofa or crawling out from under the blanket; you won’t have to worry about hitting corners and furniture.

Installing such a chandelier does not require any specialized knowledge, since it is connected in exactly the same way as an ordinary chandelier, as you wish, using one of the methods described. The lighting can be controlled by the lighting controller built into the chandelier. Still, you shouldn't get rid of wall switch, since the batteries in the remote control can always run out or it can get lost.