Trimming fruit and berry bushes on the picture
Unlike a tree, which has only one perennial axis (trunk), shrubs form many axes (branches), although not so durable, but quickly begin to bear fruit and are constantly replaced. Therefore, regular sanitary and anti-aging pruning is especially important for shrubs. It is also necessary to thin out the bushes in a timely manner - remove thickening branches. Dense bushes are more susceptible to diseases and pests, and controlling them is difficult. Since less gets into the center of a thickened bush sunlight, then the fruits grow only on the peripheral branches, and the overall yield from the bush is much lower. The winter hardiness of buds located inside a thickened bush is often reduced.
The task of pruning a young berry bush is to form a well-developed bush. After planting, the shoots are cut at a height of 3-4 buds from the ground. Subsequently, strong shoots grow from these buds, and weak shoots are cut out or shortened. If there are many weak shoots, they are pruned more strongly to stimulate branching.
Shrub branches are cut strictly at ground level. Before pruning berry bushes, remember that leaving stumps is an open gate for pathogens, and besides, the bush looks untidy.
Subsequently, the main task of pruning fruit and berry bushes is to prevent thickening. To do this, weak and low-yielding branches are removed to the base, leaving no stumps.
How to prune fruit bushes for the purpose of rejuvenation? Rejuvenating pruning of aging shrubs - such as currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle (raspberries and blackberries due to their biological features stand apart) restores fruiting for several years. All weak branches are cut out, and strong ones are shortened above a well-developed lateral branch.
In currants and gooseberries, the bush consists of shoots different years, the shoots of the current year are called replacement shoots, zero or basal shoots. They are formed from buds located below ground level. Without pruning, the shoot-forming ability of these shrubs decreases with age.
Generative buds of shrubs are located on lateral shoots, which can be of different lengths and not the same in different varieties - from miniature ringlets to shoots several tens of centimeters long, on which vegetative and generative buds alternate. The first option is often found in black currants, the second – in red and white currants and gooseberries, but intermediate options are also possible.
In the fall, fruit-bearing shoots of raspberries and blackberries, old, diseased and weak branches of currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle are cut out, and drooping branches are shortened to make caring for the bushes easier. You can trim shrubs in the spring.
The video “Pruning fruit bushes” shows how this agrotechnical technique is performed:
Formation of fruit and berry bushes on a trunk
Formation of white currants on a trunk in the photo 
White currant in the photo
IN last years when vegetable gardens and orchards are becoming not only productive, but also decorative; standard berry bushes have become fashionable. Due to the fragility of the branches, black currants are absolutely unsuitable for standard crops.
The easiest way to form a trunk is to form fruit bushes such as red (and white) currants. From a young bush they choose the most best escape, and the rest are cut annually at ground level. From the very beginning, the shoot is tied to a support on which it will remain for life. Red currants are characterized by branching in the upper part of the shoot, so we can say that nature itself took care of the beauty of the trunk, and all branches appearing below the planned crown must be removed.
Formation of red currants on a trunk in the photo 
Red currant in the photo
Red currants can also be grafted onto a golden currant trunk.
In the same way, you can form chokeberry, although it is more effective and rational to graft it onto a standard rowan tree. The grafted plant will be longer lasting than the rooted one.
Formation of gooseberries on a trunk in the photo 
Gooseberry in the photo
You can also grow gooseberries in standard form, but you won’t be able to form a beautiful and durable standard from its own branches. Gooseberries are grafted onto a red or golden currant trunk; accordingly, the shoots of the rootstock must be removed in a timely manner. However, when the grafted gooseberry begins to age, it is reasonable to leave one shoot of the rootstock, let it grow and make a new graft to replace the old one.
Formation of fruit and berry bushes on a trellis
Formation of red currants on a trellis (photo) 
Red currants on a trellis (photo)
Currants can be grown in trellis form using approximately the same algorithm as standard forms. Several bushes are planted in a row along the trellis, all shoots that stick out from the plane of the trellis are removed, or they are directed onto the trellis and tied up. The advantage of the trellis method of forming berry bushes is saving the area occupied by the bushes, good illumination and, therefore, high yield. A trellis can be used to zone a site, for example, to surround a vegetable garden area with it.
Next, to form fruit bushes on the trellis, you need to form a beautiful crown, and pruning shears can help here. The compact crown is stronger; in addition, do not forget about the angles at which the branches depart from the “trunk”. Some branches may require tying to a support. When standard currant gets old (depending on agricultural technology and variety, this will happen in 8-15 years), you need to choose a new young shoot and start all over again.
Look at the photo of the formation of berry bushes on a trellis:
Forming raspberries on a trellis (photo) 
Raspberries in the photo
It's time to start pruning your ornamental shrubs. The work is not as simple as it seems at first glance, and requires an understanding of the biology of plants and the characteristics of their growth.
Jasmine (mock orange)
Do not use pruning shears without a clear understanding of the purpose of pruning. But goals are different...
- Sanitary pruning, or cleaning. We remove all dry, broken, diseased and damaged branches.
- Formative, or structural pruning. Let's look at the bush from the outside and imagine the image of the plant that we will strive for for several years. Having determined optimal shape bush, remove everything unnecessary, cut out branches that cross, shade each other, or grow towards the center.
- Rejuvenating, or deep pruning. Once every three years, we cut out some of the old branches to the base.
- Radical pruning, or “landing on a stump.” Every year at the beginning of April we trim the entire bush to a short stump.
The timing of pruning depends on the type of pruning and the growth characteristics of the shrubs.
- Early spring. Pruning, which is carried out from the end of frost until the buds open, coincides with the natural rhythms of plant life and therefore stimulates powerful shoot growth.
- Early summer. After active sap flow is completed, pruned in the spring at the beginning of shoot growth. flowering shrubs and vines.
- Summer pruning. Until August, branches are selectively removed to curb vegetative growth.
Pruning technique
The cut site should be smooth, without damage to the bark and cambium, which will “heal” the wound. Thin branches (up to a centimeter in diameter) are removed with pruning shears, thicker ones - with a garden saw or lopper. When shortening the branches, they make a “bud cut”.
The cuts are covered immediately garden varnish or sealed with adhesive tape. Sections with a diameter of less than 0.5 cm do not need to be processed.
The need for pruning of various shrubs
Features of pruning shrubs depend on the characteristics of its growth. Conventionally, shrubs can be divided into several groups.
First trimming group
This blooming in spring and in early summer deciduous shrubs. New shoots are always formed in the lower part of the bush or in the middle of last year's branches, and flower buds are formed on last year's growths.
Shrubs of this group are pruned immediately after flowering. They are treated with sanitary pruning in the spring and maintenance pruning (once every three years) in the spring after flowering, while approximately half of all old branches are completely removed. If the bush has not been pruned for a long time, try to rejuvenate it by cutting it almost to the ground.
This group includes tall spring-flowering spirea(sharp-toothed, Thunberg, Vangutta, crenate, oak-leaved, Nippon, gray, or ash), forsythia, mock orange (garden jasmine), deutzia, weigela, Japanese kerria, ornamental currant, tree peony and other early flowering shrubs.
Most of them age quickly: noticeably fewer flowers form on old branches, the branches become bare and the bush loses its decorative effect.
Kerria japonica.
Kerria japonica, which often freezes in winter, can be cut short all over; it manages to grow up to a meter in a season and even bloom. The resulting bushes have a neater shape than the old ones that were falling apart. Particularly interesting are the variegated forms of kerria planted on a stump.
Weigela Red Prince.
Weigelu Theoretically, you can’t prune it too much (it won’t bloom). But weigels have a fairly high shoot-forming ability, so frozen plants can be safely cut to zero: by autumn they even bloom with a few flowers.
European forsythia.
forsythia, in which most flowers are formed on three-year-old branches, do not touch unless absolutely necessary, only carry out sanitary pruning.
Second trimming group
This group includes deciduous shrubs that bloom in mid-summer and autumn, in which flowers form on the shoots of the current year: buddleia, summer-blooming spirea(Japanese, Douglas, white-flowered, willow), paniculata hydrangea, tree hydrangea, shrubby cinquefoil.
To keep compact beautiful shape these bushes in early spring Last year's annual shoots are radically pruned to a short stump 10-15 cm high. Thin weak branches are cut to the base. Wilted inflorescences are also cut off, but in hydrangeas the inflorescences, which retain their decorative value until the end of the season, are not touched.
Hydrangea
When pruned annually, Japanese spirea produce dense, profusely flowering, colorful plants.
This group also includes deciduous subshrubs: karyopteris, lavatera, lavender, fragrant rue. The shoots of these plants become lignified only in the lower part, and the upper part, as a rule, freezes in winter.
They are not pruned early in the spring, but a little later, when the buds in the lower part of the bush wake up and you can see how much to shorten the stems.
Third group of pruning
This group includes deciduous ornamental deciduous shrubs (white dogwood, various types of elderberry).
Derain not only differs beautiful leaves, but also with very bright red or cherry bark. But it only happens like this on young shoots; with age, the bark turns gray and the leaves become smaller.
Always bright branches can be achieved only by annual or once every two years “planting on a stump”, that is, short pruning in early spring (usually stumps of 10-15 cm are left). Don't be afraid to do this: the turf grows over the season.
Almost all species require heavy pruning in spring. elderberries. In addition, black elderberry varieties freeze heavily in winter. After pruning, elderberry quickly grows back and appears in all the glory of its large carved leaves.
Tamarix and myricaria They also freeze. But they are heavily pruned every year, even in countries with mild climates (so as not to stretch out). After pruning, the plant shoots grow 1-1.5 m and look wonderful, surprising with their delicacy.
Fourth trimming group
This includes all shrubs that do not regularly form replacement shoots at the base of the bush. Shrubs that produce new shoots only from the apical and upper lateral buds along the periphery of the crown bloom and remain viable without maintenance pruning. Older branches are not superfluous here - they form the crown.
All types of hawthorn, serviceberry, lilac, deciduous euonymus, cotoneaster, viburnum, leather mackerel, decorative varieties cherries, plums and apple trees, bush maples only need sanitary pruning and crown thinning.
Needs special pruning more than others lilac. Without pruning, flowering becomes sparse, growths and inflorescences become smaller
Lilac flower buds are located on the tops of last year's growths located in the upper part of the crown, so they cannot be shortened. In a well-developed bush, you can remove part of the shoots with flower buds, leaving the strongest and best located ones, then the remaining inflorescences will be larger. For the same purpose, all weak crowns growing inward, intersecting, and competing shoots are cut into a ring.
Lilacs are pruned in the spring, before sap flows. Before setting seeds, remove faded panicles, being careful not to damage nearby shoots with leaves on which new flower buds are formed.
Fifth trimming group
This group includes evergreen shrubs and creeping forms(rhododendrons, evergreen species of viburnum and cotoneaster, cherry laurel, dwarf forms willow and gorse). Due to uniform growth along the perimeter of the crown, they form a strong beautiful bush no trimming. Only diseased or frozen shoots are removed in the spring.
Subtleties of pruning
- Shorten branches with long internodes a few millimeters above the outward-facing bud. This applies to bush maples, hydrangeas, weigels, as well as shrubs with hollow shoots (forsythia, elderberry, some honeysuckle).
- The vitality and splendor of flowering of many ornamental shrubs is stimulated by maintenance or maintenance pruning, when, by removing old branches, space is made for younger and stronger shoots. Shrubs that have been neglected or have been pruned incorrectly for years can be brought into order with the help of anti-aging pruning.
- Pay attention to the natural shape of the shrubs. It is hardly possible to preserve the bush for a long time small or force it to grow in an unnatural way without harming the flowering. When performing maintenance pruning, try to preserve the natural appearance of the plant, and not cut all the branches “with the same comb.” Start pruning from the bottom of the bush and work your way up. This will get rid of double work, since thinner branches are removed at the same time as the whole branch.
- In most cases, the death of old shoots in shrubs is a natural process and should not cause much concern.
To understand at what interval to cut out old shoots to rejuvenate the bush, you need to know the life expectancy of one shoot: for spring-flowering spirea and shrubby cinquefoil - 3-5; for mock oranges, rosehips, weigels, barberries - 5-10 years.
Shoots of tall shrubs (lilac, hawthorn) live much longer. Old branches are identified by weak lateral branches with many short growths.
Decorative vines are pruned after the leaves bloom late spring or in summer. Early spring pruning is dangerous due to strong sap flow. More often, only dry and poorly placed shoots are cut out.
Dogwoods, except white dogwoods, bloom and develop beautifully without any human intervention.
But in order for the bush to be a real decoration of the garden, pruning should not be neglected, be it anti-aging or regular correct pruning of bushes.
Compliance with the deadlines and time for pruning shrubs is the most important condition for their beauty and health. What do you need to consider to ensure that flowering shrubs bring you joy?
A gardener with extensive experience in gardening and floriculture will help us understand this most important “health program.” He has been growing shrubs professionally for a long time and his collection is truly enviable.
Pavel Semenovich, it’s spring outside, what not to miss in pruning now?
Before the buds open, inspect all your bushes to see how much they have suffered after winter. Damaged branches and their dry parts must be cut back to healthy wood.
Anti-aging pruning of shrubs will help restore youth to old shrubs, lighten them, facilitate air access to skeletal branches and reduce the risk of fungal and other diseases. Young, strong plants should not be pruned unless absolutely necessary.
I prefer to prune a little each year to avoid weakening the plant. The size of the bush should be limited in a timely manner so that later you do not have to resort to heavy pruning. I trim the hedges from the first years so that the bottom of the bushes is not exposed.
It may make sense to cut very old plants that have lost their decorative properties completely down to the ground. Then young shoots will emerge from the root or base of the bush.
I saw out thick branches or cut them with special pruning shears with long handles (lopper pruners), thin branches - with regular pruning shears. All my pruners have been prepared since the fall - sharpened and disinfected.
Why is regular pruning of bushes necessary?
Pruning shrubs, as a rule, stimulates flowering and maintains shape. It is important not to miss the timing of pruning - they depend on the timing of flowering.
Shrub pruning is carried out over a healthy bud located with outside branches. In some plants, flower buds are located on the current year's growth, in others - on last year's growth, and in many, on perennial branches. The flowering time depends on where the flower buds are located.
If flower buds are formed on annual or perennial branches, flowering will occur in the spring. And if they develop on young shoots of the current year, then in the summer or closer to autumn.
Hawthorn, almond, bladderwort, and cinquefoil hold their crown shape well. It just needs a little tweaking from time to time.
Thinning and regular rejuvenation are especially necessary for barberry, deutzia, viburnum, cotoneaster, lilac, mock orange, and rose hips. I remove faded inflorescences from lilacs, summer spireas, and tamarix.
On lilacs, I cut off the fading panicles to the base, reaching into the underlying wood, trying not to touch the young side shoots. In faded weigela, deutia, shrub willows, almonds, broom, and forsythia, I shorten the branches by a third or even half to the point where strong young shoots form.
These colorful shrubs have flower buds for blooming in next year are laid only on newly grown branches and branches.
Which shrubs need to be pruned in March?
First of all, in early spring, I prune those plants that bloom on the shoots of the current year. These are mainly summer-flowering shrubs - spirea, paniculata hydrangea, hibiscus, karyopteris, heather, David's budleya, three-lobed almond, broom. If you are late with pruning, flowering will begin at least a couple of weeks later. Pruning should be thorough, two to three buds.
For example, I greatly shorten David’s buddleia, removing all of last year’s long flower branches (leaving only two buds on each), as well as weakened ones.
In order for Budleya to bloom as early as possible, I prune it without delay - sometimes even in February. I first get rid of drooping side shoots and keep more of them in the center of the bush. This prevents the bush from spreading wider.
In the first year of spirea Boumald, I cut off damaged or very weak growths, completely - all incorrectly located branches. In subsequent years, the skeleton is being formed; I cut off all last year's growth by half to a strong outer bud.
Garden hibiscus blooms more luxuriantly if you prune the bush thoroughly in the spring. In March, I completely remove last year’s inflorescences from the heathers and cut out the bare branches. For shrubby cinquefoil, every 2-3 years I carry out medium thinning, lightly prune
It is impossible to leave ornamental and fruit shrubs in the garden unattended, as in this case the young shoots will develop uncontrollably and the crown will become too thick. Shrub pruning in the spring is carried out according to a scheme that allows you to accelerate the growth of young shoots and prolong the fruiting of the crop. Pruning is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, guided by certain rules.
Deadlines spring pruning trees and shrubs, features of the procedure with photos and videos will be described in today’s article.
When working in the garden, we try to carefully follow all recommendations for fertilizing the soil, watering and pest control, however, when it comes to shrubs, many novice gardeners make mistakes typical mistake: they forget about thinning them.
Figure 1. Options for pruning fruit and ornamental shrubs in the garden At first glance, it is not so necessary, but over time, when the bush grows, there is an understanding that this procedure is really important (Figure 1). Since a great variety of all kinds of shrubs are grown in our domestic gardens, it is natural that it is almost impossible to know the rules for pruning each of them. However, there are some general points, knowledge of which will be useful for all plants.
What you need for pruning
If you have a question about whether it is worth pruning your bushes, you can rest assured: it is not only worth it, but also necessary. After all, this procedure has a significant impact on the entire viability of the plant.
Remember that the main task when pruning is not to do harm, therefore, when starting work, you need to plan in advance what needs to be removed and for what purpose (for health; for the purpose of regulating growth; for the formation of fruits). Prepare all the necessary equipment, read the rules and get to work.
Pruning such plants in the spring is not only carried out according to a plan, but also has certain rules that help maintain the viability of the crop and extend its fruiting period.
The basic rules for pruning berry crops in spring include the following: s (Figure 2):
- It is necessary to use only well-sharpened tools, which must be clean.
- Try to injure the plant as little as possible. Use different instruments based on the situation. For example, thin branches are cut with pruning shears, and thick branches with a hacksaw.
- When using pruners, make sure that they do not touch neighboring shoots that cannot be removed.
- Stumps and cuttings should not be left split. The correct cut has smooth surface and smooth edges. All irregularities should be smoothed out with a garden knife and covered with garden varnish. If the cut surface exceeds 3 cm in diameter, then it is better to use oil paint.
- Diseased, dry and broken shoots must be removed. The branches of weak plants are shortened as much as possible, but strong and healthy ones should not be shortened too much.
- When shortening the shoot, the cut is made at an angle above the bud (side branch), without leaving a stump.
- Cutting down thick horizontal branches is carried out in several stages. At the first, a cut is made from below, with a depth of a quarter of the diameter of the branch being cut. Then they retreat 1-2 cm from the main branch and make a second cut from above towards the first. They saw the shoot until it breaks off along the fiber. The resulting stump must also be carefully cut down.
Figure 2. Basic rules for pruning Do not forget that pinching the shoot in a timely manner will save you from trimming it.
Peculiarities
In general, pruning any type of shrub (ornamental or berry) helps make it more neat and attractive. To carry out the procedure correctly, you need to know some of the structural features of the bush. Thus, the shoots of the culture develop from buds, which are located on the basal part of the stem. For this reason, when planting, the root collar should not be buried more than 5-8 cm, otherwise the shoots will not grow.
Note: At correct landing shrubs grow in height very quickly. Therefore, in order for them to begin to produce additional shoots, that is, to begin to bush, when planting it is recommended to shorten the longest branches to the same length. In this case, broken shoots are shortened to the first healthy bud, and weak shoots are removed completely.
Trimming conditions
Pruning should be just as mandatory. garden event, like watering, weeding or fertilizing. By neglecting it, we contribute to the thickening of the plant crown, thus creating conditions for the development of various pests and diseases. Therefore, it is recommended to thin out every year. If for some reason the bush has not been pruned for a long time, and its crown is in a neglected state, you will have to remove a large number of shoots to thin it out. In this case, it is advisable to extend this procedure over several years so as not to harm the plant too much.
A typical mistake when growing shrubs is the idea that only mature plants need to be pruned. However, experience shows that it is very difficult or simply impossible to change an already formed crown. It is for this reason that it is recommended to carry out the formative procedure on a young plant.
With the arrival of spring there is more work in the garden. Among the many troubles, do not forget to pay attention to berries and ornamental shrubs. As soon as the snow melts at their base, you can begin thinning the berry bushes, if such work was not carried out in the fall (Figure 3). If time has been lost and the buds begin to bloom, pruning cannot be done.
Note: Among the decorative ones, tree-like ones (lilac, euonymus) are pruned first, since they form growths on the periphery of the crown. They undergo sanitary and rejuvenating cleaning.
Figure 3. Rules for pruning shrubs in spring You should know that among the ornamental shrubs, lilac needs pruning the most. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to remove all weak shoots growing inside the crown, which intersect with each other and interfere with full growth. Old bushes need to be rejuvenated by cutting down trunks with loose bark. The surface of uneven cuts must be cleaned with a knife and cleared of sawdust, then treated with any disinfectant, for example, garden pitch. If juice comes out from the cut area, you need to wait until it dries and only then cover the surface.
Features of spring pruning of shrubs are shown in the video.
Pruning fruit bushes in autumn
Autumn pruning of fruit bushes stimulates the growth of new branches and also increases the quantity and quality of fruits. It is known that by autumn the nutrients accumulated by the plant during summer time, pass from leaves to trunk, shoots and root system, and the plant itself enters a dormant period (Figure 4). You can identify it by fallen leaves. It is at this time that it is recommended to thin out berry bushes, since carrying out this procedure in the spring can lead to a loss of nutrients that return to the growing points.
The first pruning of the fruit bush is carried out in the year of planting and is repeated every autumn. In this case, the method of thinning depends on the age at which the plant was most productive. Thus, for black currants, the most productive are two-year-old shoots, but there are almost no berries on five-year-old branches. It is for this reason that it is necessary to remove old branches so that new young shoots can replace them. In this case, you should remove as many old shoots as you intend to leave young ones. Young shoots are cut to a third of their length, and the tops of 2-3-year-old shoots with 3-5 buds are cut off. The same principle applies to red and white currants, as well as gooseberries. The only difference is that not five-year-old branches, but seven-year-old branches are completely removed.
Figure 4. Proper pruning shrubs in autumn using the example of black currant Raspberries also have their own characteristics. Its aboveground stems live only two years, during the first of which buds are formed on the shoot, which bear fruit in the second year of the shoot’s life and die completely in the fall. Therefore, annual pruning of raspberries involves removing dead two-year-old shoots and shortening young shoots to developed buds. Since raspberries tend to grow quickly, it is necessary to regularly thin out the raspberry plant, leaving 1 linear meter from 15 to 18 stems.
Tools for pruning trees and shrubs
By pruning and shaping trees and shrubs on your garden plot, gardeners use special equipment, which includes: pruning shears, loppers, garden knife and garden saw (Figure 5).
The pruner is the most popular tool for pruning trees and shrubs due to its versatility. They can be used to trim small branches of medium thickness (up to 2.5 cm), remove shoots and dry shoots. A pruner with extended handles is called a lopper. It is convenient for working at high heights where it is difficult to reach.
Figure 5. Basic garden tools for pruning trees and bushes A special garden knife is used for trimming stems and branches, as well as for cleaning out irregularities at the cutting and grafting sites. The advantage over a regular knife is a comfortable handle and a durable blade. A small garden saw is equipped with the same handle, having a convenient weight and sharpening with a very correct wiring. It is useful for trimming branches whose diameter exceeds 3 cm. In this case, the cut area will be even and smooth.
When choosing tools for working in the garden, give preference to quality and good quality, because with proper care they will serve you for a long time. Make sure that the springs on the tools are always lubricated and the nuts are tightened, cutting edge only needs to be sharpened on one side. And, of course, do not forget that all tools must be kept clean. Therefore, immediately after use, clean them with a soft, dry cloth.
Sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs makes it possible to restore the decorative qualities of the crown of plants, as well as improve their fruiting quality (Figure 6). In addition, with regular practice of this type of pruning, the risk of wood and bark disease is reduced.
Figure 6. Features of sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs Indications for sanitary pruning are the presence of dry (damaged) shoots, excessive thickening of the crown, broken (or completely broken) branches hanging in the crown, overgrown and intertwined shoots. In other words, the main goal of sanitary pruning is to remove branches (shoots) that pose a danger to both humans and the plant itself.
What's special
In conditions home garden the need for sanitary pruning arises when plants are infected with diseases or damaged by pests. For example, fruit trees are often affected by fungi during the flowering period, when the use chemicals unacceptable. In this case, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing the affected and diseased branches and thus saving the entire plant.
However, this does not mean that healthy plants do not need this type of pruning. Very often skeletal branches fruit trees break under the weight of the fruit or due to strong winds. Therefore, there is a need to carry out sanitary pruning, cutting and sawing out broken shoots.
When needed
As a rule, planned sanitary pruning of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out in the spring, in March - April, when all branches are clearly visible. In addition to the cleansing effect, spring sanitary pruning stimulates the growth of shoots. If it is carried out during the period of mass flowering or after it, then this leads to rapid growth flower buds. However, you should know that summer sanitary pruning interferes with the growing season, so it is carried out selectively, only to remove unnecessary branches.
Lilacs and deutia are pruned in spring and summer, but hydrangea, tamarisk and spirea are pruned only in spring. Trees and bushes that bloom in the spring should be pruned after flowering.
Rules
Gardeners with many years of experience are advised to follow the following rules for sanitary pruning (Figure 7):
- It is carried out only on rooted plants.
- Sick and dry branches are cut off from the healthy part. The branches are removed into a ring, the shoots are removed above the outer bud, without touching it.
- The cut area should be smooth, without burrs or torn edges. In this case, vertical branches must be cut obliquely to prevent water stagnation.
- Large branches are cut down in three steps. The first cut is made 30 cm from the trunk, at the bottom of the branch, a quarter of the thickness deep. The second time the branch is sawn from above, 5 cm further from the first cut. During the third step, the remaining stump is cut down.
Figure 7. Features and rules for sanitary pruning It is customary to lubricate the cut areas with a disinfectant and drying agent, for example, garden pitch. The exception is conifers trees whose wounds cannot be covered.
Growing shrubby plants on local area, cottage or garden, Special attention pay attention to proper care. Pruning shrubs often goes by the wayside, and in vain. After all, as the bushes grow, they become voluminous and their crowns lose their attractive appearance. Therefore, pruning them is an important agrotechnical measure. It is carried out in compliance with deadlines and taking into account the specifics different types crops Read about this in the article.
How is pruning done?
There are two ways to carry out the procedure:
- Shortening branches.
- Thinning the bush.
Both methods have the same goal - to redistribute nutrients throughout all branches. This stimulates them to begin to grow intensively. In the process of pruning, the buds become smaller, as a result of which the path from the roots to the leaves is shortened, and the growth of the plant increases.
Branches are shortened when it is necessary to partially remove the upper part of the shoot. Thanks to this procedure, the thickness of the branches increases, young shoots grow quickly, and the buds develop intensively. Thinning is carried out when all branches need to be removed. This pruning of shrubs prevents them from becoming thicker, preventing the appearance of pests and the development of various diseases.
What types of pruning are there?
It depends on what result is expected from this procedure. In general, there are several types of shrub pruning:
- Sanitary.
- Formative.
- Rejuvenating.
In order for the shrub to delight for a long time with lush flowering, lush greenery, and a beautiful crown, it is important to perform all types of pruning, alternating them depending on the timing.
Sanitary pruning
All shrub plants undergo this procedure. It is held in autumn period. Its main goal is to prevent infectious processes to which plants are exposed and prevent them from rotting. The procedure for pruning shrubs is simple. It is necessary to remove all damaged and broken branches, and to ensure that the crown is well ventilated, it should be thinned out. To do this, some of the immature branches growing inside the bush need to be cut off at a level of two to three centimeters above the bud.
Formative pruning
In autumn, this procedure is carried out only for summer-blooming shrubs. If you prune plants that bloom in spring, their decorative properties will significantly deteriorate, since the flowers form on last year's shoots. With the help of molding pruning of shrubs, ordinary plants are turned into decorative ones, for which several shoots with great growth vigor are added annually to the key branches.
Some shrubs root growth grows quickly, which makes them too wide, so during formation you need to remove shoots around the perimeter. But you shouldn’t be too zealous, as this can affect the density of the plant’s crown; it will become loose and unsightly. First of all, weak branches coming from the roots are removed. It is also possible to trim strong shoots directed into the bush that interfere with strong branches growing nearby. The most correct thing would be to leave those shoots that will be replaced by sick or old ones in the future.
In shrubs with poor winter hardiness, the formation of dry branches is a common occurrence. They should be removed during pruning. The cut should be made above the level of the second bud from the base. If individual branches have fallen down and spoil the decorative appearance of the bush, you need to get rid of them. During wintering, the upper shoots may freeze, although the lying branches are not affected by the frost. In this case, you just need to tie them up and leave them.
Anti-aging pruning
It is carried out on mature shrubs so that their flowering is more luxuriant. Anti-aging pruning is also carried out on plants with an annual growth of less than seven centimeters. This procedure involves shortening old branches. After it, dormant and accessory buds activate their growth. The timing of pruning shrubs is extended over time. This can be done starting from the last month of winter and ending in April, as well as in August and September.
The rejuvenating procedure consists of cutting off the branches by 30% from the very top after the end of the flowering period. To make it even more abundant, remove one, the most old thread in the bush. Shrubs should be rejuvenated once every two years.
Indications for radical rejuvenation
This procedure is necessary if the bush is no longer able to produce both strong and weak shoots. In this case, all branches are cut at the same level with the ground. But if the plant was formed on a rootstock, then the cut is made 10-15 cm above the graft. This is the only way to make the buds activate and produce new growth of shoots. After one or two seasons, weak and poorly placed branches are pruned.
Ornamental shrubs
They are grown for use in landscape design. Pruning of ornamental shrubs is carried out to give them an attractive appearance. The first procedure is carried out during planting, in the spring. The shoots of young seedlings are shortened by 10-15 cm. Three to five buds are left on each. New shoots will grow from them within the first year. During autumn pruning shrubs get rid of broken, diseased, dry shoots and those lying on the ground. If during the first year the growth of the bush was weak, all shoots are cut off at a level of three to five centimeters above the ground.
In the second year of life, the bush forms several powerful branches. In autumn it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning. The cut must be made at the very base. If necessary, this pruning is repeated in the spring. But it should be carried out until the buds swell and the juice begins to flow.
In the future, when carrying out pruning, it should be remembered that only during the first year of life the branches grow quickly, then the rate of their growth decreases, and by five to six years of life it stops altogether. The formation of the crown of shrubs ends in the fourth or fifth year after planting.
The ratio of shoots on a bush-type plant
Looking at a bush, it is very difficult to determine “by eye” how many and what kind of shoots it has. But it probably won’t hurt to know their age ratio. Each bush has four to five one-year-old branches, three-four two-year-old branches, two or three three-four-five-year-old branches. Old branches that are more than five or six years old are completely removed.
When forming an ornamental shrub, it should be remembered that when removing shoots, their physiological state, strength and direction of growth are taken into account. Therefore, the above ratio can always change, but this does not mean that the bush is formed incorrectly.
Hedge trimming
Appearance Such a structure from a growing shrub depends on how it is formed during the first year after planting. Gardeners often do not attach importance to this and do not prune plants for several years, leaving this procedure for later.
Without pruning at the beginning of growth, the branches of the bush will stretch upward, and hedge the lower part will be bare. To prevent this from happening, during the first year of the plant’s life, you need to cut out all the shoots at a level of 15 cm above the ground surface. Powerful root layers will begin to grow.
A year later, you need to do the same pruning again, which will help form the crown correctly. If its density is insufficient, severe pruning will be required next year. In the third year of the bush’s life and in all subsequent years, only cosmetic pruning should be done, since strong basal growth will finally form.
Curly trimming
In landscape design, the most fashionable were once alpine coaster, well-groomed lawns. But as time goes on, the fashion for landscaping is changing. Currently, a new trend in this direction has become very popular - figured pruning of shrubs, which is one of the types of garden creativity and is called topiary. Skillful hands masters transform shrubs into masterpieces that decorate not only gardens and parks, but also palaces. Unusual figures are created, usually from evergreen or small-leaved plants. The crowns of bushes and trees are pruned using geometric shapes.
Cone
This shape is the easiest to trim. It will be easier to give it to a plant if it is naturally cone-shaped. The haircut should start from the crown, from its top, gradually going down. To make the cone proportional, poles are used. They are placed next to the trunk on four sides, and the tops are collected slightly above the crown. It turns out to be a pyramid. Those branches that extend beyond its contour are cut off. Such geometric shape suitable for barberry, juniper.
Ball
This geometric figure can be obtained by pruning bushes such as laurel and gooseberries. The process is labor-intensive, but it can be made easier if you make a wire template in advance, which is a ring with a handle. The main condition is that the width of the device must be smaller than the crown. The ring is attached to the bush, and excess branches are cut off. If the plant has a naturally spherical shape, you just need to maintain it.
Spiral
This element is very effective, but also quite difficult. It can be used on shrubs that have a cone shape. There are two ways to trim the plant to form a spiral:
- Using regular tape that needs to be wrapped around the crown. The areas of the plant located between the turns are trimmed. Great care is needed here.
- Another method is carried out using a stick, which is inserted into the ground at a close distance from the bush and tied to it. You need to take a rope, fix it at the very top of the stick and lower it in a spiral downward. The shoots need to be cut down to the trunk, which is considered the main one, following the shape outlined by the rope.
Gardening Tools
They are needed for “trimming” plants whose branches have different thicknesses. Therefore, tools for pruning shrubs have different purposes.
- Secateurs are devices that are used to cut branches with a diameter of up to two and a half centimeters. They come in two types: with curved and straight blades. The operating principle of the first type is similar to that of scissors. The main goal in working with it is to cut a thick shoot efficiently, without gaps. To do this, the tool must be well sharpened and have a gap between the blades. The second type of pruning shears has a straight blade; during operation it rests against the plate, or more precisely at its end. The advantage of this mechanism is that there is no need to check the gap between the blades, but the disadvantage is the inability to get to hard-to-reach places.
- Lopper. This tool easily copes with thick shoots with a diameter of five centimeters. With its help, you can remove branches deep in the lush crown, where other tools cannot reach. Its variety is a rope lopper, which is used for trimming branches growing at a fairly high altitude.
- Saw. It is used to remove branches that are too thick. The teeth of the saw reach a height of five to seven millimeters and are set wide enough so that they do not become clogged with wood during work.
- The knife is the most sought after garden tools, it is used to trim and clean thin branches, cut off bark, and correct crooked cuts.
- Scissors for trimming bushes. Gardeners use them to form a curly crown, decorative hedge. With their help, shrubs are given an interesting shape.
- Stepladder is garden tools, without which it is difficult to care for the bush. The ladder should be stable and its legs should be widely spaced. This way it will be more stable.
What to feed after pruning?
Regardless of the season of the procedure, plants need increased nutrition, since it is at this time that the vegetative mass increases. The indication for soil fertilization is a decrease in the concentration of nutrients in it. Plants especially need nitrogen and potassium at this time. You can use a solution you prepare yourself. Take potassium nitrate (three spoons) and water (10 liters). Everything is mixed, after which the bush is watered to the very root with this mixture. You can use nitrophoska or a mixture of urea and ash in a proportion of 30 and 100 g, respectively, per bucket of water.
If pruning of shrubs is carried out in August or September, the plants are in dire need of phosphorus, since the active formation of the root system occurs during this period of time. Fertilizer is scattered over the surface of the soil into the plants. Its application is combined with watering.
The most effective feeding for both ornamental and fruit shrubs is compost infusion. To do this, half a kilogram of organic matter is diluted in 10 liters of water, left for two to three days and watered the plants in the evening, when the sun has set. If the summer is hot and drought continues for a long time, first tree trunk circles watered with plain water and then with a solution.
