How to polish iron to a mirror shine. How to polish a knife: sharpening and polishing knives, effective methods at home How to polish to a mirror shine

The surfaces of metal products are finished not only to give them a beautiful appearance, but also to protect them from rusting, corrosion by acids, alkalis, etc. In one case, it is enough to file the product, in another, it is necessary to bring the surface to a shine by grinding and polishing , in the third - cover with paints and varnishes; all this can be done yourself at home.

Fig. 1. Finishing of metal surfaces: A - sanding; B - grinding with a file; B - grinding of round products; G - polishing with paste.

After processing metals with a file, more or less deep marks from the notch teeth always remain on them. To make the surface cleaner, smoother and even shiny, it is sanded and polished.

METAL GRINDING

At home, metals are polished with emery cloths after carefully treating the surface with a personal file. To make the skin comfortable to hold, it is wrapped around a wooden block (Fig. 1, A) or a wide file; The ends of the skin are held with the thumb and forefinger of both hands. Convex cylindrical surfaces can be sanded by wrapping sandpaper around them.

First, the surface is processed in different directions, with coarser, coarse-grained skins, then with finer ones. The final grinding is carried out in one - longitudinal - direction using sandpaper with the finest grain. When grinding, the product must be fixed motionless.

METAL POLISHING

A mirror-like shine is imparted to metal products by polishing. Without preliminary grinding, only surfaces that have been carefully processed with personal and velvet files can be polished. The file should be rubbed with chalk. The surface is first processed across the strokes on it. When the strokes along and across are the same, the direction is changed by 90° and this is repeated several times. The surface treated in this way, as well as the grinding surface, is polished with special polishing pastes.

The industry produces polishing pastes under the GOI brand. They consist of fine abrasive powders (chromium oxide, iron oxide, etc.), soft plastic substances composed of wax, stearin, kerosene and other materials. GOI pastes come in coarse (dark, almost black), medium (dark green) and fine (light green). First, they polish with a coarse paste, which makes the surface matte, then with a medium and, finally, a fine paste, bringing it to a mirror shine. The paste is applied to a felt swab, cloth or linen cloth and rubbed onto the surface to be polished.

You can make your own polishing pastes. For polishing steel products, the following composition is recommended (in parts by weight):

Stearine - 32

Beeswax - 6

Technical lard - 5

Lead oxide - 3

Chromium oxide - 80

For polishing and glossing brass and nickel-plated surfaces, use pastes of the following composition (in parts by weight):

Stearine - 5

Technical lard - 1

Chromium oxide - 14

The polished surface is wiped with a rag soaked in kerosene, and then dry with a clean rag.

Polishing metal using an angle grinder

Polishing is a type of metal processing that returns shine to the metal surface. On modern stage The following grinding methods are distinguished:

What tools and machines are used? Mechanical methods involve the use of the following tools and devices:

polishing machine;
Grinder;
electric sharpener;
drills with clamps.

This finishing method has several advantages. Firstly, it allows you to change the rotation frequency of circles and belts, which has a positive effect on the quality of processing of the metal plane; secondly, the polishing machine can be equipped with additional attachments made from fabric, leather, wool, etc.

Special Sander– angle grinder

Manual grinding differs from automated grinding in that its effectiveness depends on the quality of consumable polishing materials. In manual finishing, diamond paste and additives based on chromium or iron oxide are used. Smooth metal surfaces are polished with an ordinary file - a wooden block covered with a cloth, onto which polishing paste is applied.

Polishing metal with a special device

Combined processing methods

Metal polishing can be carried out using combined methods, in the case of an unprepared and rough surface with rough relief. In this case, a long-term electrolyte-plasma finishing is prescribed, which consists of removing a significant layer of metal.

This processing method is used in extreme cases when quick restoration of the shine of a metal product is required. Among the disadvantages of the technology, high energy intensity should be highlighted, especially in initial stage processing when 100% more energy is used than usual.

An electrolytic plasma polishing machine processes the part in two stages. At the first, the surface is degreased, and at the second, the grinding itself occurs, which, in turn, also consists of two cycles: cutting off the rough layer and grinding the metal. Cleaning from grease is mandatory, since a viscous surface leads to oxidation of the metal and deterioration in the quality of its finish.

Classification of metal polishing pastes

To a mirror state metal surface you can finish it yourself without using machines, just pay attention to special means, divided into the following groups:

Aquatic. The substance does not contain fat and does its job perfectly;
Organic products - contain paraffin and various oils. They are diluted with various oils and fatty acids;
Diamond paste is a revolutionary solution that allows you to instantly achieve shine on any metal surface.

Let's take a closer look at the last version of grinding. Diamond paste is so effective that it completely replaces a polishing machine. Diamond Substance is available in two types: ASN and ASM brands (expensive).

Diamond paste has the following advantages:

Accuracy. Synthetic diamonds allow you to polish any metal product to a shine as accurately as possible;
Wide range of grain sizes. On modern market you can find more than 12 types of grain;
Simple operation allows you to carry out cleaning procedures yourself without the use of special tools;
Diamond paste required minimal tool: rags, water and rubber gloves.

The main disadvantage of the cleaning product in question is its high price. On average, diamond paste on the consumables market costs more than 500 rubles per 35 grams of the substance.

Working principle of diamond paste

Diamond paste affects metal product mechanically and chemically, forming dispersed films. The cleaning agent contains active substances that promote adsorbing processes, which facilitates grinding of the material.

Diamond paste is applied to different types of fabrics (felt, microfiber or jeans), paper, rubber, plastic and other types non-metallic materials. It is worth noting that diamond paste can also be applied to polishing wheels to increase the efficiency of metal surface processing. In this way you can achieve a mirror effect. Circles made of felt, felt or leather are installed on the polishing machine.

Description of the polishing process

To grind a metal surface you will need: laps and several tubes of diamond mixture with different grits. Diamond paste is evenly distributed over work surface rags or other material. Experts have noticed an interesting pattern that makes it possible to improve the quality of metal processing.

It turns out that you need to add castor or olive oil to the polishing substance. Ideal ratio It is considered a mixture consisting of 40% diamond dust and 60% oil. After dilution, the mixture is immediately applied to the metal surface.

Experts recommend starting work only with large grains, gradually moving to abrasives. During processing, make sure that no unnecessary elements - dust, sawdust, hair or pieces of rags - get into the mixture. The presence of foreign objects greatly impairs the polishing to a shine. It is also recommended to wash your hands after changing from one grit to another.

Types of Diamond Dust

On the modern market you can find products not only for polishing metal, but also other materials, for example, wood, glass, stone, etc. They can be classified by color, for example:

Huge range of diamond paste

Yellow packaging indicates that the substance is intended for polishing ceramic materials and glass products. It is worth noting that this dust can also be used for finishing metal;
Blue packaging. This type of product is used for finishing glass. The abrasive has enough wide choose abrasive elements - from 60 to 10 levels;
The red packaging is suitable exclusively for treating metal surfaces.

As for the packaging itself, diamond paste is sold in compact plastic jars with a volume of 35–45 grams. The average cost of a jar depends on the size and quality of abrasive materials. The finer and higher quality the polishing material, the cheaper the paste costs. The average price is 450–600 rubles.

Paste GOI

GOI chrome paste is universal remedy, which is used to polish metal and non-metallic surfaces. Although it was invented in the early 1930s, it is still used to polish metals today.

Polishing paste GOI

The GOI product comes in different grain sizes (classified according to the size of the abrasive materials). There are different types of grain size: fine, medium, and coarse. Fine dust is used for polishing soft and non-ferrous metals, coarse grains are used for rough finishing of ferrous metals and steel.

Features of use. Initially, the polish has a solid structure, which can be diluted with a few drops machine oil. If you need to polish an uneven metal surface with bends, it is recommended to apply the paste diluted on a rag.

The second polishing method is intended for processing smooth metal surfaces. Its peculiarity is that on wooden block a small amount of abrasive material is applied. Then it is recommended to make methodical movements back and forth along the surface being treated.

Video: Polishing aluminum

Fig. 1. Finishing of metal surfaces: A - sanding; B - grinding with a file; B - grinding of round products; G - polishing with paste.

After processing metals with a file, more or less deep marks from the notch teeth always remain on them. To make the surface cleaner, smoother and even shiny, it is sanded and polished.

METAL GRINDING

METAL POLISHING

The industry produces polishing pastes under the GOI brand. They consist of fine abrasive powders (chromium oxide, iron oxide, etc.), soft plastic substances composed of wax, stearin, kerosene and other materials. GOI pastes come in coarse (dark, almost black), medium (dark green) and fine (light green). First, they polish with a coarse paste, which makes the surface matte, then with a medium and, finally, a fine paste until it reaches a mirror shine. The paste is applied to a felt swab, cloth or linen cloth and rubbed onto the surface to be polished.

You can make your own polishing pastes. For polishing steel products, the following composition is recommended (in parts by weight):

Stearine - 32

Beeswax - 6

Technical lard - 5

Lead oxide - 3

Chromium oxide - 80

For polishing and glossing brass and nickel-plated surfaces, use pastes of the following composition (in parts by weight):

Stearine - 5

Technical lard - 1

Chromium oxide - 14

The polished surface is wiped with a rag soaked in kerosene, and then dry with a clean rag.

Definition of the concept of “polishing” and its types

Polishing metal using an angle grinder

Polishing is a type of metal processing that returns shine to the metal surface. At the present stage, the following grinding methods are distinguished:

What tools and machines are used? Mechanical methods involve the use of the following tools and devices:

polishing machine;
Grinder;
electric sharpener;
drills with clamps.

This finishing method has several advantages. Firstly, it allows you to change the rotation frequency of circles and belts, which has a positive effect on the quality of processing of the metal plane; secondly, additional attachments made of fabric, leather, wool, etc. can be installed on the polishing machine.

Special grinding machine - angle grinder

Polishing metal with a special device

Combined processing methods

This processing method is used in extreme cases when quick restoration of the shine of a metal product is required. Among the disadvantages of the technology, one should highlight the high energy intensity, especially at the initial stage of processing, when 100% more energy is used than usual.

Classification of metal polishing pastes

You can bring a metal surface to a mirror state with your own hands without the use of machines; just pay attention to special tools, divided into the following groups:

Aquatic. The substance does not contain fat and does its job perfectly;
Organic products - contain paraffin and various oils. They are diluted with various oils and fatty acids;
Diamond paste is a revolutionary solution that allows you to instantly achieve shine on any metal surface.

Diamond paste has the following advantages:

Accuracy. Synthetic diamonds allow you to polish any metal product to a shine as accurately as possible;
Wide range of grain sizes. There are more than 12 grit types available on the market today;
Simple operation allows you to carry out cleaning procedures yourself without the use of special tools;
Diamond paste requires minimal tools: a rag, water and rubber gloves.

The main disadvantage of the cleaning product in question is its high price. On average, diamond paste on the consumables market costs more than 500 rubles per 35 grams of the substance.

Working principle of diamond paste

Diamond paste acts on a metal product mechanically and chemically, forming dispersed films. The cleaning agent contains active substances that promote adsorbing processes, which facilitates grinding of the material.

Diamond paste is applied to different types of fabrics (felt, microfiber or jeans), paper, rubber, plastic and other types of non-metallic materials. It is worth noting that diamond paste can also be applied to polishing wheels to increase the efficiency of metal surface processing. In this way you can achieve a mirror effect. Circles made of felt, felt or leather are installed on the polishing machine.

Description of the polishing process

To grind a metal surface you will need: laps and several tubes of diamond mixture with different grits. Diamond paste is evenly distributed over the working surface of a rag or other material. Experts have noticed an interesting pattern that makes it possible to improve the quality of metal processing.

It turns out that you need to add castor or olive oil to the polishing substance. The ideal ratio is considered to be a mixture consisting of 40% diamond dust and 60% oil. After dilution, the mixture is immediately applied to the metal surface.

Types of Diamond Dust

On the modern market you can find products not only for polishing metal, but also other materials, for example, wood, glass, stone, etc. They can be classified by color, for example:

Huge range of diamond paste

Yellow packaging indicates that the substance is intended for grinding ceramic materials and glass products. It is worth noting that this dust can also be used for finishing metal;
Blue packaging. This type of product is used for finishing glass. The grinding agent has a fairly wide selection of abrasive elements - from 60 to 10 levels;
The red packaging is suitable exclusively for treating metal surfaces.

Paste GOI

GOI chrome paste is a universal product used for polishing metal and non-metallic surfaces. Although it was invented in the early 1930s, it is still used to polish metals today.

Polishing paste GOI

Features of use. Initially, the polishing agent has a solid structure, which can be diluted with a few drops of machine oil. If you need to polish an uneven metal surface with bends, it is recommended to apply the paste diluted on a rag.

The second polishing method is intended for processing smooth metal surfaces. Its peculiarity is that a small amount of abrasive material is applied to a wooden block. Then it is recommended to make methodical movements back and forth along the surface being treated.

Video: Polishing aluminum

With force, the rolled bundle retains its shape. 5 nozzles marked P400, P500, P800, P1000, P1200 have been prepared. There are large transverse scratches. The torque on the shaft is highly dependent on speed.

Up to 12,000 rpm, the speed drops when pressed, and above 20,000 rpm, the skin quickly wears out. Sand perpendicular to the scratches until they disappear. This attachment is quickly updated and provides required pressure to the surface.

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The erased and greasy part is cut off. The grinding direction periodically changes to perpendicular. This way, the material is removed more efficiently and chaotic scratches are better removed. We increase the paper number. During the grinding process, the paper wears out, its aggressiveness decreases, and the coarse abrasive chips away. Therefore, less pressure needs to be applied to the new paper so as not to get deep scratches. Coarse paste for fine grinding. 320 is all that was indicated on the package.

Before switching to a thinner paste, the polishing area must be cleaned of its residues. Another no name pasta. The composition contains a dye. The type of abrasive can only be guessed at. There is no need to do this; the paste is applied only to the nozzle. Noticeable grinding on a quick fix. Higher quality sanding.

Metal polishing is more than sanding with fine abrasives. Here, both chemical processes (dissolution of oxide films by substances included in the pastes) and thermal processes (thermal softening of the material and spreading it on the metal) take place. Before polishing, the surface must be cleaned from scratches, gradually reducing the size of the abrasive. Before moving on to finer sandpaper, you should make sure that all scratches are removed. Depending on the depth of the scratches, select the number of sandpaper from which to begin sanding. If you have medium GOI paste No. 3, sandpaper with a number greater than P1200 can not be used because Their grain size is comparable, and sandpaper itself with a small grain size quickly becomes greasy.

For polishing steel optimal pressure nozzles 1-2 kg/cm^2 and peripheral speed 30-35 m/s. Circumferential speed formula. V=(3.14* D* n)/60 (m/s); D-nozzle diameter (m); n-rotation speed (rpm). In the case shown, V=(3.14* 0.01* 15000)/60=7.8 m/s. This is 4 times less than recommended. Those. You can increase the diameter to 4 cm without loss of quality. At the same time, cotton wool will quickly crumble, but leather or cotton threads will withstand.

Polishing at a higher speed and pressure than recommended reduces the quality of the surface, but increases the amount of metal removed, therefore initial stage polishing this can be used. To obtain better polishing, speed and pressure are reduced to values lower than recommended.

During the polishing process, the binders included in the paste melt and act as a lubricant during the process of cutting the material with an abrasive, and also remove heat from the surface. At the same time, the polishing attachment itself heats up and the binder begins to penetrate deep into it, leaving the abrasive grains without lubrication and heat removal. After this, the grains, having lost their binder, fall off and leave scratches on the metal being processed. For the same reason, the paste should not be applied to metal. The nozzle passing through the metal cannot capture all the material, and the captured abrasive grains are not retained well enough, and the grains themselves are not distributed evenly throughout it. Excess paste also does no good. It simply slides along the layer of binder between the metal and the nozzle, and the abrasive grains float in the layer without coming into close contact with the surfaces.

Because for normal operation If the paste is used, the binder must melt, then such pastes will only work in a certain temperature range, when the binder has already melted, but is still thick enough to hold the abrasive grains on the nozzle. For most pastes, the range starts at 70 degrees Celsius. And it is for this reason that polishing by hand is extremely ineffective. For normal operation, you need to melt it, add any liquid oil and stir. Conventional softening solvents are not suitable because... evaporate quickly and the product thickens.

Well, I’ll continue in the same spirit, sharing my ordeals in polishing steel. What is written below is just my personal experience, if I’m wrong, correct me, I won’t be offended. Not long ago I made myself a katana, although more precisely, a tachi with variations. The idea was to make an elongated katana and feel what the medieval short Japanese felt. Those. approximately for them a katana is what a tachi is for us Europeans, and a wakizashi is for them what a katana is for us. I think that if anyone has been involved in sports, he will understand how problematic the mechanical transfer of martial arts, designed for short and strong Asians, to Europeans is. In general, I made something with a blade length of 85 cm, with a thickness of 8 mm at the thickest point and a blade width of 29 mm at the border with the handle. To facilitate the design, the butt had to be made very, very sharp, but in the end the result was something with a completely classic center of gravity at 1/3 from the beginning of the blade and a weight of 1.05 kg (hand spring scales). After all, the question of polishing arose; The main tool is a grinder with 8500 RPM. Tried almost everything Consumables, right down to the bronze end brushes. Of course, I used Velcro sanding wheels. Personally, it was important for me not to kill the edges on the katana, because... The grinder cuts them off too easily. Before the grinder, I used a new small and relatively soft whetstone, moistened with water so that an abrasive paste was formed. Using it, I refined the edges and refined the tip. Then I used the following grinding wheels: 80->120->180->400. How smaller size particles of the circle, the faster it becomes unusable. 80, 120 - it took 2 laps; The 180s took three or four. The 400s are a different story. There were exactly 10 of them. How to polish them? First, each circle must be walked on an unpolished 400-degree surface. The wheel wears out very quickly, large abrasives fly off from it, but the remaining particles form a real mirror. So when the circle starts to leave mirror surface, it must be put aside “for later” and a new one installed. When the entire surface is polished with 400 grit, we put the old circles on the grinder and get a real mirror, albeit with some scratches. Final stage- paste GOI. As for the name, the paste was developed by the State Optical Institute, and not by a Spanish artist of modern times (not Goya or Goya paste); it was not made by Jews for non-Jews (goyim; this is not “goyim paste”, although Google knows such a request :). I bought a felt circle for her, but such a circle is heavy and there is no point in putting it on the grinder - the vibration is so strong that either you will feel unwell, or the grinder will break down. I put this circle on a drill, especially since it had a speed controller. We rub the circle with GOI paste, if it has hardened (long-term storage), then drop a few drops of kerosene onto the circle of paste and wait. until it is absorbed, after that the paste is easily rubbed into the circle. Drop a few drops of kerosene onto the surface to be polished, for example, using a glass tube (if available) or an eye dropper (sold in pharmacies). Which kerosene should I take? Roughly speaking, there are two grades of kerosene on sale - one is light, the other is heavy. The first is a lighter-boiling fraction of oil; it smells more like gasoline and boils at a lower temperature. He won't suit us. The second is a heavier fraction, boiling at a higher temperature. high temperature; it looks like old "aviation" kerosene - it has a characteristic smell. This is what we need, because... it evaporates much more difficult. drop kerosene onto the surface of the part to be polished and begin polishing. You don’t need a lot of GOI paste, sometimes you need to add kerosene, but without fanaticism. With kerosene, the procedure is absolutely not dusty, but if someone doesn’t like kerosene, get ready for its smell. In the end we get a completely mirror-like surface, but do not forget to wipe it with a clean cloth, because... it is hidden under a layer of polishing products. The specularity is approximately the same as that of chrome surfaces, but small scratches are still present. Unlike chrome or nickel plating, the color is not white, but gray. To remove black deposits after polishing, I recommend “Galosha” gasoline - cheap analogue petroleum ether (yeah, who needs it for anything, use this gasoline), which evaporates quickly. Finally, you can wash it with soap and warm water, wipe dry and wipe with alcohol, which dries perfectly.
By the way, does anyone know of a household item with a hardness of 60 HRC? I checked the hardness of the tip - it scratches two types of glass, i.e. more than 70 HRC (some will say that I overheated it, but IMHO this is exactly what is needed for the edge), but the blade, of course, is not. But I don’t know of an object with a hardness of 60. I think for all lovers of making edged weapons, it would be good to compile a table of household items in the hardness range of 45-75 HRC in increments of 5, so that one could immediately say that the hardness of the blade is such and such.

SITE SEARCH

METALS CLEANING

1. CLEANING GOLD

a) Gold rings can be cleaned of iodine stains by immersing the ring for a quarter of an hour in a solution of 1 teaspoon of hyposulfite per glass of water.

b) Cleaning matte gold. Take 80 bleaching lime, 70 bicarbonate salt and 20 table salt. Pour the mixture into 3 circles. distiller water, it is stored in sealed bottles. The blackened objects are placed in a cup and doused with pre-shaken liquid and left alone for a while. Sometimes the mixture is heated. Having taken out the objects, wipe them, rinse them with alcohol and put them in sawdust to dry.

c) Gold objects are cleaned with a powder consisting of 16 chalk, 6 1/2 clay, 4 lead white, 1 1/2 magnesia and 1/2 bloodstone, or 80 iron oxide (kolkotar) and 30 ammonia.

2. CLEANING SILVER

a) Silver items can be cleaned by placing them in a hot aqueous solution of cream of tartar (creamortartar) for several minutes and then thoroughly wiping them with chamois leather.

b) Silver spoons will always be clean and shiny if, immediately after use, they are washed in boiling water to which a small amount of soda has been added, and poured over with clean hot water, then wipe dry with a soft towel. Once a week you should wash the spoons in soapy water with a small amount of ammonia. Thanks to this, even a completely tarnished spoon acquires shine and looks just like new. Dark stains on silver spoons, originating from eggs, are removed by wiping with ash. Damp stains come off by washing in warm vinegar followed by rinsing in clean water and wiping dry.

c) It is known that both silver and silver-plated items tarnish relatively quickly in the air and become very beautiful view. To eliminate such tarnishing, a trace is recommended. remedy: prepare a liquid solution of collodium and apply this solution to silver or silver-plated objects with a thin and possibly even layer: the alcohol quickly evaporates and a thin film of collodium, completely invisible to the eye, remains on the metal surface, perfectly protecting silver from tarnishing under the influence of air or gases in it . As experiments carried out in foreign museums have shown, silver coated with a thin layer of collodium retains its color, shine and polish for a long time. If necessary, this thin protective layer can easily be removed with hot water or, even better, alcohol.

d) Silver items are first cleaned with water and soap and their still warm surface is lubricated with a solution of 1 sulfate-acid soda (hyposulfite) in 3 water, after which they are wiped with a rag.

3. COPPER CLEANING.

a) Objects made of polished copper are first wiped with a soft rag soaked in kerosene, then cleaned with a woolen rag with chalk powder or Vienna lime. Heavily neglected copper objects can be restored to shine by wiping the object with a rag soaked in diluted hydrochloric acid. Then clean as indicated above, or dissolve 30 g of oxalic acid in 1 liter of water, add 4 tablespoons of alcohol and 3 tablespoons of turpentine. After this, the liquid is shaken well and poured into bottles for storage. When used, the item to be cleaned is lightly wiped with this liquid, and then wiped with a dry linen rag: the copper quickly cleans and becomes shiny. b) Mix 1 oxalic acid, 25 red iron oxide, 20 tripoli, 60 palm oil, 4 paraffin. The result is a paste that is excellent for cleaning things made of copper and brass.

c) Red iron oxide (Caput mortuum) in the form of a fine red powder for cleaning copper and brass objects is obtained by heating iron sulfate until it disintegrates into a white powder. This latter is then heated in a crucible, and a delicate red powder of iron oxide is obtained.

d) Mix transparent powder of iron sulfate with the same solution of potassium oxalate. The resulting yellow precipitate is washed, dried and heated as described above.

e) Mix 9 crude oleic acid with 1 kerosene, which can be colored with an alkane or infused with an alkane root.

f) You can refresh the surface of small copper products by boiling them for 30 minutes in a solution of soda ash (40 g/l).

g) Products made of copper and brass retain their shine if they are thoroughly waxed.

h) Darkened copper can be cleaned well by raw potatoes.

4. CLEANING GILDED BRONZE,

a) Take 5 glasses of water and dissolve alum in it until saturated, then boil the solution over a fire while it is hot, rub the darkened area with it using a cloth until the stain comes off. b) Boil yellow peas, grind them until a thick dough is obtained and, while still warm, stick them around the bronze thing. After a few hours, when the pea dough has shrunk, the bronze is washed clean with boiling water and wiped dry with a clean rag. All the rust and all the stains come off.

b) Bronze parts can be cleaned raw potatoes or a stiff hair brush soaked in hot vinegar. After this, the part must be wiped with a soft cloth,

5. CLEANING NICKEL.

Nickel items to be cleaned are first moistened 2-3 times with a mixture of 50 alcohol (or vodka) and 1 sulfuric acid, then they are rinsed with water and, after rinsing with alcohol (or vodka), wiped with a thin linen rag.

Nickel-plated surfaces of various objects can be cleaned with cigarette ashes, pouring it onto a damp cloth.

Rust on nickel is removed as follows: smear the object with some kind of grease and leave it like that for several days, then wipe thoroughly with ammonia. If the rust has penetrated deeply, you can use diluted hydrochloric acid instead of ammonia, which, however, is left on the metal for no more than a minute. The object is then washed with water and polished with chalk and crocus.

If the nickel layer is covered with a bluish coating, then it is washed with a mixture of alcohol and sulfuric acid in equal parts by volume. The rinsing lasts only a few seconds, then the item is washed with water and alcohol and wiped until dry.

6. ZINC CLEANING.

Zinc items can be cleaned perfectly with a solution of 1 hydrochloric acid in 2 water. This solution is rubbed with a brush over the item being cleaned until the dirt comes off. Then, when the object is not yet dry, lightly grease it with wood oil and rub it with finely ground chalk using a cloth until it shines.

7. CLEANING THE STEEL.

Simple and good composition A mixture of paraffin and oil can serve for this purpose. Add 1 paraffin to a bottle containing 20 oil, shake thoroughly until the paraffin is completely dissolved and, having first wiped the object to be cleaned, cover with a brush with the indicated mixture; then leave for 10-12 hours. in place, protecting from dust, after which the item is wiped with a dry woolen cloth. If a steel tool or any other item requires thorough cleaning due to significant rust, etc., then use the following composition: prepare a mixture of 5 turpentine and 25 stearin oil. This mixture is diluted with alcohol until a thick liquid is obtained, with which the object is coated, and when the alcohol evaporates, the metal surface is wiped with a mixture of 45 animal charcoal and 25 kolkotara (mummy) powder.

8. CLEANING METAL PARTS OF MACHINES.

"Moniteur Industriel" indicates the following best way, practiced in France. Add 10% paraffin to one liter of kerosene and, having thoroughly sealed the vessel, set it aside for a day, shaking it from time to time, after which the mixture is ready for use. Then, using a cloth, moisten all metal parts of the machines that need to be cleaned. Having wetted it, leave it in this form overnight (or even better, for a day) and only the next day wipe it dry with a clean cloth.

With this method of cleaning, rust, greasy resin dirt, etc. disappear, and the metal parts of the machines seem to be newly polished. There is no other way to clean them so well, not to mention the extreme cheapness of this method, which makes it quite suitable for cleaning all kinds of machines, tools and generally products made of steel and polished iron.

POLISHING OF METALS

POLISHING OF METALS ASSOCIATED WITH CHEMICAL CLEANING

1. POLISHING IRON.

Iron items to be polished are immersed for some time in a mixture of 1 sulfuric acid per 20 volumes of water, then the item is removed, thoroughly rinsed with water and dried in sawdust. Once dry, it is immediately immersed for one or two seconds in nitric acid, after which they are rinsed again with water, dried again in sawdust and then wiped thoroughly. In this case, the surface of the object becomes shiny, like glass. According to Cosmos, no other method can achieve such perfect polishing as the above.

2. POLISHING THE STEEL.

Steel products are polished using a leather circle coated with a mixture of 16 tin and 1 zinc. A crocus or bloodstone moistened with alcohol is applied to the flat side of the mug and, after moderate drying, it is polished with agate.

3. POLISHING BRASS.

Equal parts of water and ox gall, boiled together, make a good polishing agent. The liquid, after cooling, is bottled and stored there. When used, it is applied to brass and bronze objects with a brush or objects to be polished are immersed in it.

4. NICKEL POLISHING.

The mixture consists of 8 stearin, 32 lard, 2 stearic oil and 48 finely ground Vienna lime. Objects are polished with this paste using a circle covered with cloth (according to Hildebrand).

5. POLISHING ALUMINUM.

a) Aluminum is first immersed in a strong solution of potassium hydroxide or sodium, and then in a mixture of 2 nitric acid and 1 sulfuric acid. After this, it is placed in pure nitric acid and, finally, in vinegar diluted with water. After rinsing thoroughly in running water, dry in hot sawdust and polish with a polish. Aluminum treated in this way acquires its natural pure white color.

b) 1 stearic acid and clay, 6 tripoli. If it comes to polishing smooth surfaces, then the paste is applied to a leather circle. After this treatment, the object is polished with more crocus using a leather circle, which makes the shine even more beautiful.

c) If polishing by hand, then the most suitable is a mixture of petroleum jelly and ceresin or a solution of borax in hot water, to which a few drops of ammonia are added.

6. POLISHES FOR METALS.

a) 90 g of finely sifted tripoli and 90 g of guinnomasic acid are ground with 450 g of liquid paraffin. After vigorous shaking, rub in with a woolen cloth and polish with suede.

b) 60 Paris paint (pure iron oxide), 10 wax, 30 oleic acid and 2 rosin. With the addition of gasoline, iron oxide is mechanically distributed in the liquid, with large grains of polish sinking to the bottom, and when drained, a washed-out mass is obtained that does not form scratches on the metal at all.

c) Equal parts of iron sulfate and table salt grind thoroughly in a mortar and the mixture is heated in a flat crucible or other vessel until red heat. Various chemical glassware By affordable prices can be ordered on the website moslabo.ru. In this case, vapors are formed and the mass turns into liquid. When the vapors no longer rise, the vessel is removed from the heat and allowed to cool. The resulting brown mass is washed with water to remove all undecomposed particles of iron sulfate. The residue is an excellent polishing powder.

7. ALUMINUM POLISHING PRODUCTS.

According to Morni, equal parts are mixed by shaking in a bottle olive oil and vodka until the liquid resembles an emulsion. The polishing stone is dipped into the emulsion, and the aluminum is polished like silver, but without applying much pressure. The black streaks that sometimes form from the polishing stone are not harmful, but can be removed from time to time with a soft cloth.

8. POINTING THE MAT ON ALUMINUM.

First, aluminum objects are launched for 20 seconds. into a hot 10% solution of caustic soda, which is previously saturated with table salt in a cold state. Then the items are rinsed with water and wiped with a brush, after which they are immersed a second time for 30 seconds in the above solution. After a second rinse and rinsing in hot water, the items are dried in sawdust.

9. POWDER FOR MATING JEWELRY.

Consists of 40 g of saltpeter, 25 g of table salt and 35 g of alum. Mix into a homogeneous mass and heat in an enamel vessel, stirring constantly with a glass rod until water vapor leaves. Then cool the mass by placing the vessel in cold water, turn it into powder and store until use in well-closed glass containers.

If objects should be only partially made matte, then the parts that should remain shiny are covered with a layer of the following mixture before matting: 50 g of powdered lime carbonate, 5 g of sugar and 5 g of gum arabic are ground with water into a paste, which is applied to the surface with a brush. remaining shiny areas.

10. FINAL FINISHING OF FITTING PRODUCTS.

To give plumbing products a beautiful look, they resort to various means depending on the nature of the work. Small artistic forgings acquire a beautiful appearance if they are finished with an intense black color. But for such work, the paint is not applied by spreading, but the following operations are performed: a fire is lit in the forge, corresponding in size to the size of the object being processed. The fire should not smoke (it is best to use coke for this). Then lubricate the object with ordinary linseed oil and expose it to fire, but only for such a time until the oil evaporates and its residue burns to the iron. After cooling, rub the object firmly with a cloth lightly soaked in linseed oil.

The more smooth surface received iron during processing, the more beautiful the deep black color will look. This coloring is extremely durable and perfectly protects against atmospheric influences.

To etch iron parts black, they must be clean, brightly straightened and polished. Then they are greased with liquid oil and sprinkled wood ash, then they are held over hot coals until they turn black. After cooling, the objects are washed in water to which a few drops of sulfuric acid have been added, and immediately wiped thoroughly with a coarse, clean cloth.

Rubbing with oil protects the product from exposure to air.

Traces of flies on scales, panels and other parts are very difficult to remove with gasoline, alcohol and other solvents. At the same time, these stains disappear without a trace if you wipe the contaminated areas with a cloth or cotton wool moistened with saliva.

To make iron especially soft, it is heated red-hot, quickly cooled in soap, heated again to red heat and, after adding lime powder, allowed to cool slowly. When processed in this way, the iron becomes very malleable and soft.

CLEANING GOLD PLATE.

Cleaning gilding, especially on wood, requires very careful handling. First, all dust must be swept away from the gilding, then the gilding is carefully wiped with a soft sponge, or even better, with a piece of cotton wool slightly moistened with wine alcohol or turpentine.

Instead of the above-mentioned liquids, good strong beer, a solution of the so-called Marseilles soap, or a mixture of 10 parts of ammonia and 40 parts of soap alcohol are also used.

Egg whites are also considered a good way to clean gilding, and gently wipe the object with a piece of flannel.

You can eat a mixture of proteins (2-3 eggs) with 18 g of javelle water; Using this liquid mixture, use a soft brush to lightly wipe the gilding, especially the most tarnished areas.

Finally, pure wine vinegar, which is used to cover the gilding with a soft brush, sponge or piece of pata, can serve the same purpose. After 5 minutes, the vinegar is carefully washed off clean water without wiping with anything.

For cleaning gilded bronze, in addition to ammonia diluted with water, the following method also gives good results: the gilding is wiped first of all with a brush moistened with water. Then cover with a soft brush a mixture of 60 parts water, 15 parts nitric acid and 2 parts alum, after which the liquid is allowed to dry without wiping it off.

CLEANING METAL PARTS OF MACHINES.

We present the best method, currently practiced in France, for cleaning metal parts of various types of machines. Add 10% paraffin to one liter of kerosene and, having sealed the vessel well, leave it for a day, shaking it from time to time, after which the mixture is ready for use. Then, using a cloth, moisten all metal parts of the machines that need to be cleaned. Having wetted it, leave it in this form overnight (or even better, for a day) and only the next day wipe it dry with a clean cloth.

This cleaning method removes rust, greasy resin dirt, etc. and the metal parts of the machines seem to be newly polished. It is impossible to clean them so well in any other way, not to mention the extreme cheapness of the method itself, which makes it quite suitable for this purpose in relation to all kinds of machines, tools and generally products made of steel and polished iron.

Polishing the metal will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the product. If it is not possible to turn to professionals, then you can polish it yourself, at home, the main thing is to follow the technological process.

The process of polishing to a mirror at home

There are several proven methods for polishing metal at home. One of them is chemical (without the use of mechanisms). It does not require much effort, the main thing is that it follows safety requirements. Polishing metal at home using a chemical method occurs in the following order:

Sulfuric acid is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20. The volume of the resulting mixture should be sufficient to completely cover the item being polished;
Dip the object to be polished into the resulting solution for a few minutes, and, after removing it, rinse it in running water. Next, place it in a container filled with sawdust;
Dried in sawdust metal object dip in nitric acid for 2-3 seconds, then rinse thoroughly again;
After the next drying in sawdust, carefully wipe the metal.

After such simple procedures, the metal object will look like new. A smooth and shiny surface will be perceived by the eye as a mirror.

TIP: Before putting a metal item into acid, you need to remove all elements made from other materials from it. Acid can have a detrimental effect on other materials and destroy them.

One of the most popular types of home polishing of metals is processing using GOI paste. This paste was created in the last century and is successfully used to this day. Initially it has a solid form and comes in varying degrees of granularity. For better application, it is recommended to dilute it with a few drops of machine oil.

For hand polishing of soft metals, it is recommended to use a soft flannel cloth with a fine-grain paste applied to it. Ferrous metal can be polished with a piece of tarpaulin or denim with a coarse paste. To get results faster, instead of a rag, you can use a felt circle attached to hand drill, or a small wooden block.

Required equipment and chemicals

For getting good result at home you will have to spend a little and stock up on some chemicals, devices and mechanisms. Depending on the method by which you will polish the metal to a mirror shine with your own hands, you will need several items from this list:

Sulfuric acid;
Nitric acid;
Water;
Sawdust;
Paste GOI;
Felt circle;
Drill;
Wooden block;
Textile.

Polishing process

Polishing metal to a mirror shine at home is a rather lengthy process; the main thing here is not speed. If you carry out the process (mechanical) without the use of electrical assistants (after all, some metal objects can be “wiped”), then you should carefully and for quite a long time, with extreme caution, “wipe” every square centimeter of the product.

Advice! For items with indentations, you can use an old toothbrush coated with GOI paste. It is convenient for her to reach hard-to-reach places.

Safety precautions

Using chemical method When polishing, be sure to use special gloves, respiratory protection, and special utensils that do not react with acid. Polishing metal to a mirror shine with a grinder or drill should be carried out using eye protection. And most importantly, you must strictly adhere to technological process. It is necessary to always have a medical first aid kit on hand, with which you can provide first aid before the arrival of the ambulance, although it is advisable to prevent such cases.

Result

Grinding and polishing metal at home, carried out in compliance with all technical requirements, can completely restore appearance metal object. With minimal financial costs and a certain skill, you can achieve high results.

If you need to compare your work with the ideal result, you can always watch a video on the Internet - “Grinding and polishing metal at home”, where you can find lessons on various polishing methods. They tell in detail about all the nuances of polishing metals at home.

Typically, metal polishing is done when color has been lost, rust has appeared, or some tarnishing has occurred. This labor-intensive operation is performed only on a sanded surface. Its main task is to give the product a mirror shine. Any room that has well-polished metal objects will appear most attractive. Such things will play with light, like a mirror. However, to make this a reality, you will need a special metal polishing paste or powdered substances that are mixed with a viscous solution.

At the first stage, metal polishing involves cleaning various contaminants. To do this, use a soft cloth soaked in water. You can also use them to remove not only dust, but also stubborn dirt. It is enough to apply just one drop of the product onto a napkin. Next, the metal product must dry so that the paste or powder is successfully distributed over the surface. A soft towel or hair dryer will help speed up the drying process. As for polishing agents, they can be purchased at almost any hardware store.

Next, the metal itself is polished. Apply a small amount of paste to a soft cloth. This is quite enough for a not very extensive surface. The paste is rubbed from both sides to the center. Not a single centimeter of surface should remain without it. Using this method, it is quite possible to bring a metal product to a mirror shine. To eliminate gaps and achieve maximum results, it is necessary to reapply the polishing agent. If you do this every six months, then all metal objects will be in perfect condition and sparkle in the sun.

You need to know that polishing precious metal requires the use of a special polishing pad made of hematite or high-quality steel. This tool is a rounded working part with a wooden handle. You can make it yourself if you take rollers and balls from bearings. Thanks to this process, the treated surface acquires a rich shine. The polishing pad moves only in one direction, but after finishing the work is repeated in the transverse direction. In this way, metal objects gain their true beauty.

However, in order to make any metal object, metals come to the rescue, allowing you to achieve efficiency and high level productivity. Recently, more and more attention has been paid to it, as it has managed to prove its worth in practice. The plasma arc, which performs the main function, arises as a result of the use technical gases. Argon and helium are especially popular, as they provide high-quality protection in the welding zone.