Quiver
It's the turn of the quiver (tula)
Actually what is a quiver:
A quiver is a traveling container for arrows.
Which functions it should do:
1. Be comfortable to wear.
2. Allow you to quickly remove arrows from it.
3. Be a beautiful, harmonious element of the costume (armor)
4. Maintain arrows in proper quality.
In this article I will consider three questions:
1. what kind of quivers there are.
a) Historical quivers.
b) Quivers adapted for role-playing games.
c) Belt and shoulder quivers.
3. Carrying a quiver (behind your back).
A quiver is an indispensable attribute of an archer. Everyone has one in one form or another, some have it as a bag on their back, while others have an inlaid quiver made of patent leather stretched on a blank. This article is for those who either do not yet have a quiver, or have a quiver of the “bag on a strap” system.
It is strictly not recommended for anyone who has decent quivers to read the article!
So, a little about classification
Let's start with the types, or "what they were."
What was the quiver on early stages development of archery skills is not known for certain. The rock paintings of distant ancestors do not provide any accurate information for reflection. But we can say with confidence that subsequently the quivers were frame, on which it was fixed shell quiver.
The frame was usually made of either wooden slats/rods/rings, or horn plates, or whalebone plates, or bone or metal.
The shell, as a rule, was some kind of bendable, but at the same time quite strong and able to hold its shape material: leather, birch bark, dense fabric with impregnation.
At a later time, quivers appeared, hollowed out entirely from wood or carved from bone or horn, as well as quivers made of leather, brought to such a state by various rubbings, impregnations and other anointings that it did not bend at all and was more like wood. These are frameless hard quivers.
Here is an example of a typical historical quiver:
(here I absolutely blatantly scanned an illustration from a book, I won’t say which one from, so that its author wouldn’t find me and judge me!)
And here is an example of Japanese quivers:
In the center there is depicted a frameless horse quiver with a door (pull the string, my child, the door will open (c). Such closed quivers were used to ensure that arrows, when galloping over difficult and rough terrain, would not fall out and spoil even in severe bad weather, but, alas, it was very inconvenient to shoot quickly from such quivers.
I won’t give examples of other quivers; they, of course, differ in shape, materials and beauty of execution, but in essence they are the same box, quite rigid and light.
Quivers adapted for role-playing games
The main difference between them and historical quivers is that they need to store not thin arrows with tips, but arrows with a huge fig at the end (humanizer).
Moreover, the main problem is that almost all arrows should be humanized at the bottom.
How no need to do it in no case.
1. Some unfortunate archers make narrow quivers, for example, from a tube for drawings, where the arrows lie in humanizers at the bottom, the next four lie on these humanizers, lying tightly between the shafts of the first arrows, and so on. In the heat of battle, when one of the lower arrows is taken out, it usually falls out of the quiver into best case scenario half. Arrows from such quivers are difficult to obtain, since the humanizer has to overcome the intricacies of the shafts on the way to the exit. And therefore, it is often very difficult to hold them when removing them, grasping the shank with two fingers.
2. Other would-be archers, usually female, sew themselves a long bag with a strap, the “knapsack” system. Such a quiver, if hung loosely on the back, will fall down and twist. The arrows will dangle in it anyhow, and finding at least one arrow shank behind your back will be a huge problem. If such a bag-shaped quiver is tightened tightly on the back so that it fixes the arrows in the exact position, then, due to the fact that the quiver is soft, the back will feel every arrow in every detail when running. I have never been able to quickly get an arrow out of such a quiver. You need to pick it out from there, preferably with both hands.
Now about how it should be role quiver. It should have fairly rigid walls and a neck, as well as a large bottom, onto which, if not all humanizers, then at least most of them will fit. The manufacturing system for a role-playing version of a quiver can be the same as for a historical one.
Either it's wooden or metal carcass with shell; or it is a one-piece papier-mâché made of fiberglass on a blank with epoxy resin, imitating ancient frameless quivers made of hard leather, horn or wood (I hope that it doesn’t occur to anyone to hollow out a quiver from a solid tree trunk over the course of many years?). Either these are instant quivers from modern materials for example, from hard linoleum covered with leatherette. Or, if already at the game you feel the urge to make a functional quiver, then a tube made of stitched foam with a round wooden bottom in the form of a thin cut of a block of wood, nailed to the foam with small nails, in this case will be the best option. In principle, such a quiver does not look so great, but it performs its functions within one game with a bang. Drape it, and it will be much better than a bag with a strap or a narrow quiver. The second version of the quiver that can be made at the game: a quiver made of birch bark, similar to the historical one shown in the very first picture. It will, of course, take half a day to make and sew such a quiver, but you can be proud of the result.
Hanging Quivers
Quivers were hung on the belt and on the back, some warriors various countries(usually horsemen) carried two quivers, one on the belt and the other on the back.
I want to tell you the advantages and disadvantages of each of these types of quivers.
Belt Quiver
Advantages:
1. You can see every arrow when you take it out. On the one hand, this is good, as some guys say: “You can choose a better arrow,” - I usually answer: “But aren’t all your arrows the same and good, as it should always be?”
In fact, if you monitor the removal of the arrow with your eyes, the arrows will be pulled out more slowly than if you practice the reflex.
2. Throughout the history of different ethnic groups, different types of tips were used. Therefore, in order to select the tip suitable for each specific shot, it had to be selected visually. To do this, either the arrows were placed in a belt quiver with the tips up, or their shanks/fletching were marked, for example, with different colors or a patterned (meaning, a deliberately unevenly shaped edge of the plumage) beard. In the context of role-playing games, it makes no sense to mark the same humanizers, so this fundamental advantage simply does not exist.
Flaws:
1. When moving, especially fast, over rough terrain, the waist quiver gets in the way and gets tangled in the legs. In the role-playing movement, horses are not used, and, therefore, there are no horse archers, so you have to run on your own two feet all the time, and this is where the quiver gets in the way.
2. While crossing rivers, the waist quiver gets wet in the water.
3. Raising an arrow from the belt quiver up to the bow is always more difficult than lowering it from the shoulder quiver down onto the bow - the rate of fire is lost.
Back Quiver
Advantages:
1. Arrows are better stored behind the back and interfere less with moving and fencing in the event of close combat.
2. It turns out to be possible to lay arrows faster than from a belt quiver, because reflexively finding the shank, pulling it out and lowering the arrow onto the bowstring is much faster than lowering your gaze to your hip, choosing a shank, pulling out the arrow, lifting it into the bow, lowering it onto the string, and subsequent search for the target with a look away from the process of laying the arrow.
Flaws:
1. Impossibility of choosing an arrow (as already mentioned, unimportant in RI conditions)
2. Inability to visually determine the number of arrows in the quiver.
3. If hung incorrectly, it is difficult to find the arrows behind your back, as well as to remove them due to long length arrows with a narrow quiver (if done correctly, the disadvantage is eliminated).
Conclusions: Historically, horse archers benefited from hip quivers. Foot archers were free to choose, for the advantages and disadvantages different types each other's suspensions were compensated equally.
In terms of role-playing games: the belt quiver has only one advantage and two significant disadvantages. The shoulder strap has two advantages and one disadvantage. Therefore, I personally think that wearing a quiver on your back is more convenient and effective than on your hip.
In order to make a quiver, it is necessary, first of all, to imagine how many arrows will fit there, and even better - to have these arrows. This is necessary in order to determine the bottom area. We take the arrows and place them with humanizers on a piece of paper lying on a flat surface. We place them as tightly as possible - so that together they represent one of these three forms:
I have given here bottom shapes with the same perimeter, that is, with approximately the same consumption of shell material.
1. Oval. It does not stick out with a hump and does not roll over the back. Not many arrows fit
2. Semi-oval. Doesn't stick out too much, doesn't roll over the back. An average number of arrows fits.
3. Round (ellipsoidal). It sticks out very strongly and rolls over the back. Most arrows fit.
Conclusion: I use it myself second option, a trade-off between volume and convenience. First better use, when you need to climb into narrow gaps (between trees, for example) and it looks more aesthetically pleasing.
The third option is best worn on a belt. Because it doesn’t matter whether it rolls or not, you still can’t feel the shank, but find it by looking.
So, we put the arrows on a piece of paper and traced them, getting the shape of the bottom. Then the shape of the bottom was brought to an aesthetic completion, that is, it was outlined evenly and symmetrically.
The bottom can be made either soft or hard. The hard bottom is usually made of wood (plywood/board). The walls of the quiver are nailed to it. The soft bottom is made from the material of the quiver walls and is sewn to them.
Now about what to make the quiver shell from.
The shell of the quiver must meet two requirements: be moderately rigid and at the same time moderately elastic, must not be afraid of bad weather and be resistant to abrasion.
Sufficiently thick leather from 2 to 5 mm thick can serve as such material. Thinner will not work, it will not be rigid enough to hold its shape. A thicker one will not work, because it will be difficult to bend and give the desired shape.
That is, the leather of the saddlery or saddle system is suitable for us.
Next, you can successfully use birch bark for a quiver. But this will complicate the frame, because it is difficult to find a fairly even, large piece of birch bark.
And finally, you can use various modern materials to make the shell, changing their appearance accordingly.
For example, hard linoleum covered with young leatherette leather (faux leather) works well. But to be honest, linoleum is not much cheaper than the same leather, that is, the use of modern materials, despite the complexity of masking the appearance, can cost money (if, of course, you buy everything, and do not take pieces left over from repairs), maybe not more expensive, but at least comparable in price to the same leather. But there is less work to do with leather than with linoleum; it does not need to be sheathed and draped.
For the frame you can use wooden slats, thin sheet metal, or thick steel wire.
How to make a quiver.
Quite a simple way, but general principle will be clear. If you want some frills, the only difference will be in the patterns.
All specific dimensions are given for my globally two-meter height and the corresponding length of arms and arrows. And also in accordance with large requests for the capacity of arrows in a quiver.
We will need:
Materials:
1. Thick leather, saddlery system (3mm) or linoleum, glued on one side with leatherette (we glue it with Moment glue according to the instructions).
Dimensions approximately 60x65 cm (depending on the size of the quiver + a small piece for the bottom 25x12 cm, which is better to take from thicker leather, for example from a saddle cloth 5-6 mm, or a collar 3-5 mm, but if from the same saddle leather, it’s not scary) .
2. Wood plank for a frame with a cross section of 40x8 mm and a length of ~ 650 mm - 2 pieces. In principle, you can get by with just one.
3. Thick strong threads and a huge needle in order to sew it all.
4. Thick steel wire ~2 mm thick.
Tools:
1. Sharp knife shoemaker systems or large stationery systems.
2. Scissors.
3. A device for punching holes in leather, either an awl or a drill with a thin drill bit.
4. Furniture stapler, or small nails and a hammer.
5. Pliers.
Actually, we'll start from the bottom. We cut it out or oval within the boundaries of a 20x10 cm rectangle. This will make a quiver for 15-20 arrows. Or semi-oval within the boundaries of a 20x12 cm rectangle (in fact, it is better to cut the bottom according to the specific number of specific arrows that you need. How to do this is described above).
After cutting out the bottom, we punch or drill holes in it around the perimeter, stepping back from the edge 3 mm every 5 mm.
Pattern:
Where:
x is the perimeter of the bottom of the quiver, which is measured very carefully, either with a bending ruler in segments, or bent from a thin wire. Then the wire is straightened and measured. It’s better to take a centimeter more, and then, if there is excess, it’s easy to trim.
y - the height of the quiver at the maximum point, as a rule, it is equal to 2/3 of the length of the arrow, if the length of the arrow was measured in the same way as described in the article about making arrows.
z - approximately 3/5 of the arrow length. In short, a little more than half an arrow.
Now we punch holes along the upper edge of the walls in the same way as on the bottom, and we start punching holes along the lower edge from the middle. First we do the first five in one direction and the first five in the other. Here it is important to ensure that the holes in the bottom of the quiver correspond to the holes in the walls.
To the upper edge we sew a curved steel wire with a harsh thread.
Then we sew the bottom starting from the middle, piercing several holes in the lower edge of the walls of the quiver. This is done so that the holes in the walls correspond to the holes in the bottom.
This is what should happen.
The edges of the quiver walls should meet at the top. If they overlap, you need to carefully trim them (that centimeter of reserve). Ideal - if the edges meet exactly.
Now we make the longitudinal frame. These will be the two wooden slats inserted on both sides. We place one of them on the inside of the seam, the other is simply nailed on the other side for structural rigidity. If the leather is already thick, then you can completely dispense with the second rail to make the quiver lighter. We nail the slats to the leather using a furniture stapler. We begin to nail along the seam from the bottom, grabbing both edges of the leather with a paper clip.
Next, saw off the excess slats. After this, the paper clips can be sealed with a strip of leather, or you can leave everything as is. I won’t talk about appliques, patterns and waxing here; everyone does this themselves to the best of their creative talents.
How to secure all this art behind your back
For this purpose, we will need three belts and two buckles, as well as a rivet machine in order to secure the belts to the quiver and attach the buckles. Or, as an option, an awl and a needle with thick threads so that these belts are not riveted, but sewn.
The two belts should be about 35 cm long; we will immediately fasten a buckle at their ends.
One of the belts (with a buckle without a fastener) is attached to the quiver on the right side (for right-handers!)
The second (with a buckle and clasp) is attached to the left side of the quiver.
One belt should be about 80 cm long.
It is attached to the quiver from above on the wall adjacent to the archer’s back.
The straps are wide enough and the buckles are large enough. This is done so that the straps do not cut the shoulder under the weight of the quiver of arrows.
It should look something like this:
Please note that the lower straps are attached at different heights relative to the quiver, this is done so that the quiver tilts towards the right shoulder, then the arrows in the quiver will collect near one edge, where they need to be snatched.
We attach the straps to the quiver with rivets, or sew them with strong threads.
Actually, such a mount makes it possible to adjust the quiver in height and tilt, achieving the most convenient position for removing arrows from the quiver. This fastening quite rigidly fixes the quiver relative to the back, while leaving a certain degree of freedom so as not to restrict movement.
At first I didn’t think that I would do some kind of Worklog on making a quiver, but then the thought crept into me that the topic was generally relevant and I had long since stopped seeing normal quivers at games. In connection with this, at some stage of working on the quiver, I began to record my actions in detail with a camera.
First, the shape of the quiver was invented. In general, everything was selected based on the length of the arrow, shooting style and general aesthetic preferences. As a result, something like this was formed:
The diagram shows that I planned to make the quiver in such a way that the arrows lying to the left along the bottom with their shanks would be higher than those arrows that are to the right. This is done with the goal of finding by touch those arrows that lie most freely. The cross-sectional shape of the quiver is indicated by gray “ovals”. I also had the task of making the bottom large so that many arrows with humanizers could fit there, and the mouth of the quiver small so that the arrows would not fan out like a fan in a huge pipe. The slanted bottom is made so that the arrows always roll to one (right) side of the quiver. Everything else is purely my vision of the aesthetics of this issue.
Next was the construction of the pattern. I divided the quiver into lines and then “unfolded” these lines onto a plane and smoothly connected them.
This is how it turned out for me:
This is already a mirrored drawing; in fact, I only built the left half; on it I immediately made both the front and back sides of the quiver. then the image was mirrored and a pattern was obtained. The blue color shows the shape of the quiver with the marking lines applied, and the black lines are where I already built the pattern itself using a measuring compass, a pencil and a ruler.
Next, a drawing was invented. I wanted to draw a kind of tailed phoenix. What happened is for you to judge:
After a sober look, it was decided that the long feathers on the wings weigh down the composition and generally create unnecessary additional ripples, and I decided to get rid of them.
Then I drew the entire drawing in Corel to get more elastic and dynamic lines.
Then thick, dense, undyed leather was taken from the back of a cow, also known as Cheprak. and the main plate of the quiver is cut out according to the printed pattern. It was cut out with an additional flap so that the edges overlapped by about 5 cm. Later you will see why I did this. Moreover, I did not place the connecting seam on the back side of the quiver, because it will be visible from the inside. and on the side surface on the bend closer to the back. Then I transferred the drawing using carbon paper to the skin and began to burn the contours of the drawing with a burner.
Around the same time, I became interested in what the professionals were burning and I ordered a pyrograph from RAZERTIP, but it arrived from Canada only when all the burning had long been completed. If I had a new professional pyrograph then, the pattern would have turned out much smoother and more beautiful. But in general, using the old-fashioned burner method, Vyaz also turned out well.
This is how I started:
And this is how it turned out for me:
Then I ground off the thickness of the leather from the underside of the leather into a wedge the five centimeters from the edge that I laid on the seam that turns my flat plate into a pipe. I did this using tape grinding machine. This work is dirty, so I didn’t take any photos, I’ll only show you the result. Shoemakers and other saddlery masters do this using special knife. I don’t have a knife, and I don’t know how to wield one. That's why I used a more technological solution. This is what the edges of the skin looked like:
But here is the entire pattern from the inside out. On the right and left you can see how the colors of the skin change, these are the edges that have been ground down.
Then the very long stage of painting the plate began.
For painting I used a special acrylic paint for skin. In theory, you can use regular acrylic on fabric, but I did a lot of experiments and found out that Jacquard paint is the best for painting leather. Moreover, the paint is of quite high quality and can be poured into an airbrush if diluted according to the instructions. Excellent coverage, a large palette and most importantly, after drying the paint adheres very firmly to the skin.
If you try hard, you can erase it, but overall, the paint gave the most best result of all the ones I've tried. To paint the quiver, I used Neopaque color palettes and several different gold metallics from the Lumiere series. I started by selecting paint to darken the edges of the drawing and the edges of the plate.
These are the colors I used:
I hung the plate on vertical plane together with the backing so as not to cover the wallpaper.
Then he carefully and quickly blew out the contours:
Then the most dreary part began: using a brush and gold paint to paint the actual drawing itself. The difficulty lies in the fact that if you move awkwardly, the paint tends to pour into the burnt groove and ruin the result. This happened in several places, and then we had to touch up all these rubble on top.
After quite a long time, the drawing was ready, and small strokes of bronze paint remained.
After painting, it's time to glue the quiver into a pipe. For this purpose, I covered with masking tape all the places where the glue was not supposed to get, smeared the edges of the wedge with Moment-Crystal glue, held it in accordance with the instructions and joined the edges, placing cardboard tube. Then I carefully rolled the seam with a rolling pin for strength. I turned the quack in such a way that the front side of the quiver would wrap over the back and form a seam on the side closer to the back, and the back would form a seam on the side, which would not be visible due to the protruding wing of the high part of the mouth.
This is how I glued it:
Then the masking tape was torn off and a clean seam was obtained, which will be practically invisible when the quiver is on
This is the pipe that came out:
In the photo you can see that the seam from the inside of the quiver is almost invisible; it is only visible in the neckline from one angle.
It's time to make the bottom. Using the same pattern, I cut out (remember the gray spots of sections) three identical pieces of the same saddle cloth. They were very reminiscent of insoles) I glued them together over the entire surface and got a thick “oak” bottom. My previous quiver had a single-layer bottom that very shamefully stretched out like a bubble and ruined the shape of the entire quiver. So this time the bottom will be hard and thick.
It turned out to be so hard that the punch could not take it and holes had to be drilled in it. Here I forgot to take a photo of the process itself and I ask for your forgiveness, so I’m showing a photo where the bottom of the quiver has already been ground on a belt sander, with the ends exactly to the size and shape of the walls of the quiver, holes have already been marked and drilled in the bottom. The same holes were made with a punch exactly opposite in the walls of the quiver and the bottom was already glued to the walls of the quiver using Moment glue. I tapped the glue line with a hammer:
In the photo you can see how thick the bottom of the quiver is; the holes on the walls start exactly where the bottom ends from the inside.
Next I cut strips of leather and made a needle from a piece of wire. The needle must be blunt so as not to injure your hand:
And he began stitching the joint between the walls and the bottom of the quiver. I ended up with two pieces of leather tape at the very end.
To connect them, I carefully cut the ends of the tape into a wedge with a sanding knife on a marble plate:
And he glued them momentarily towards each other so that the joint was not visible:
If you don’t know that there is a joint there and don’t look closely, then it’s practically invisible. By the way, leather tape is extended in exactly the same way if its length is not enough to sew the entire seam. In this case, I increased it once.
Then I glued on the rhinestones. Swarovski glass thermal crystals were purchased different sizes. At first I wanted to make only the eye of the bird, but then the idea came to support this motif on the wings and tips of the tail. I think that with rhinestones it turned out to be a very controversial point from the point of view of a quiver for a man, but overall it looks good, maybe it’s just my prejudices. At first I wanted to make all the stones red, but after laying them out it was decided to replace them with golden-orange ones.
This is how I glued them using a soldering iron.
To complete the shape of the quiver and give it final rigidity. Must do wire frame at the mouth. For this purpose, steel wire 3 mm thick was taken. and then, over the course of the evening, a frame was carefully bent out of it to exactly fit the mouth. Here it is very important not to make mistakes and do everything very accurately. If you approach the issue carelessly, then the edges of the leather tied to the frame will stretch somewhere, and somewhere they will swell with a bubble. Therefore, you need to bend the frame very, very carefully.
The ends of the wire using a Dremel (although you can also use an ordinary grinder) were ground onto a wedge, again with an overlap:
Then be sure to rinse everything to remove acid residues and degrease again. Then the entire structure is wrapped with thin tinned copper wire. For this purpose, I use wires stripped of insulation from broken computer power supplies. Power supplies burn often, and before throwing them away, I always free them from wires, which then come in very handy, not only in this case for a quiver, but also for ordinary electrical crafts and devices. This is what the wrapped joint looks like:
Then I soaked everything with regular flux so that the tin would not burn out of the wire prematurely. I carefully heated the joint on a gas burner and, using a wire of solder, I imbued this entire “silkworm larva” with molten tin until it began to collect in drops from below.
I shook off the excess tin and then cooled the soldering area. When soldering, be sure to keep a container of water on hand just in case. It comes in handy to cool the joint or shake off excess tin. As a result of soldering, after cleaning with alcohol from flux residues, the following joint was obtained:
Quite neat and very durable. The fact that it is a little thick is not a big deal; everything will be covered with braid and will not be visible. If it turns out to be very thick, then you can thin it out a little with the help of skins. This will weaken the connection a little, but for the purposes of the quiver it is not critical. I decided to leave everything as is.
I tried it on and finally bent the frame under the mouth:
In the photo it lies a little crookedly, otherwise the frame falls inside the quiver. Believe me, everything is adjusted exactly. You can start flashing the firmware. Exactly the same as the bottom, and extending and finishing the braid in exactly the same way.
On outer corners, sometimes you need to pass the braid twice, and in my case, even pass it through one hole three times:
Holes in the edges were also punched using a hand punch and tongs. The holes were marked using a measuring compass. First, it was carried out with a needle at a certain distance from the edge of the quiver; in the case of the mouth, this distance was slightly greater than the thickness of the wire. and then, at regular intervals equal to the thickness of the tape, notches were made.
I'm almost done:
Visible in the Photo inseam at the bottom of the quiver. The turns of the braid must be tightened very tightly, literally with force to the point of breaking the leather braid. Otherwise, during the operation of the product, the coils may weaken and the frame will dangle. As a result, the quiver is almost finished. All that remains is to make the fittings to attach the belts to it:
I cast the fittings quite a long time ago, even before I started making the quiver, so I’ll show you an old photo, unfortunately it’s the only one. A detachable plaster mold was made using a plasticine model with a long sprue to create pressure from liquid tin so that all the details would flow.
I took the photo on a slipper then, so forgive me for the quality.
These cast sanded tin elements had holes made to suit the thickness of the leather. and from the same wire from which the frame was made, locking L-shaped dowels were made.
I needed three of these elements to subsequently attach three belts to the quiver.
Rectangular holes were marked for the lugs of the fittings on the quiver:
They were then cut out with a modeling knife.
The elements were inserted and secured from the inside with dowels.
In the future, I plan to master electroplating and cover all cast tin fittings with a layer of copper or, if possible, brass. That's why they are made removable. In the final form, the dowels will also be bent on the other side of the fittings' ears.
I plan to write more about how I will make the quiver pendant and cast the breast buckle. I don’t think it will be very soon, but I will definitely write. In the meantime, this is how the quiver turned out today, for your consideration:
That's all, thanks for your attention.
Archery for Beginners Sorrells Brian J.
Quiver
Today, there are several types of quivers: belt-type quivers, capacious back quivers that allow you to carry 25–30 arrows at a time, and shakos installed directly on the bow itself, thanks to which your arrows are always at hand.
As for me, the choice of quiver depends on the nature of the shooting. For example, when hunting, especially in a forest area, I prefer a good quality shako. Shakos are lightweight, attach directly to the bow and can hold from 4 to 7 arrows. Such quivers are especially convenient if you have a backpack with rations and other hunting equipment on your back, which naturally excludes the possibility of using a back or belt type quiver. In addition, if you have to move through a dense forest, with a shako it will be easier for you to monitor the safety of the plumage and protect your arrows from damage by a random branch.
Quivers are found in different options, and each of them has its own advantages. But above all this is the most safe way carrying several arrows at the same time. 1) back quiver; 2) belt; 3) mounted on the bow.
If, for example, I'm shooting at flat or 3D targets, I take a back quiver with me because it holds more arrows. It is much easier to get or put away an arrow in a back quiver than in a shako. When hunting, back-type quivers have one significant drawback: when shaking, the wide blade tips very often become dull due to constant contact with each other. In addition, when moving through the forest, you can accidentally scare an animal with the unexpected rattling of your arrowheads, and arrows tend to catch on branches every now and then. The famous archer Howard Hill used back quivers both in tournaments and on hunts. He solved the problem extraneous sounds and constantly dulling his tips is very simple: he filled the quiver 1/3 with dry oats. I always wondered what was going on in his quiver when it rained? Another problem associated with using back quivers for hunting is the additional movement required over the shoulder to get the next arrow.
Belt type quivers are perfect solution for those who don't want to bother with a back quiver, and for those who don't want to carry the extra weight of a shako and arrows on their bow. There are two types of belt quivers: one designed to carry both broad blade and practice quivers, the other for target quivers only. The latter can very often be seen at numerous archery competitions, they are usually attached to a wide belt with many pockets for cards with earned points, pencils, etc. As a rule, such quivers have special recesses for each individual arrow and can accommodate as many arrows as possible. , as much as necessary. The Hunting Belt Quiver is a simple pocket that securely holds 5 to 8 broad-bladed arrows and hangs comfortably on the hip. In order to get the arrow, you just need to lower your hand and feel for the shank. However, belt quivers still have one drawback: in the forest, arrows keep getting tangled in dense branches. If you still decide to take a belt quiver with you when hunting in the forest, I advise you to take a model with a clasp on a belt loop. Then, if necessary, you can easily unfasten the quiver without any fuss with the belt buckle and hang it on a tree next to you. Another option is possible: you can make a comfortable quiver yourself using a shako for a compound bow. For example, I made my belt quiver using a small piece of leather that I bought for next to nothing at the local leather store. This is done simply: bend a piece of leather so that you get a loop for a belt, and attach it to the upper bracket-clamp of a shako from a compound bow.
For example, shakos from the company " KwikeeKwivers" are excellent for this purpose because the quiver itself is attached to the clamp by simply tucking the material. Now you can easily take your quiver on and off without having to fiddle with a belt loop.
Pocket quivers are not really quivers in the true sense of the word. It's more of a pocket protector for archers. This “quiver” is Leather Case, which is tucked inside the hip pocket and allows the shooter to carry arrows in it without fear of tearing the lining or the pants themselves. Similar option The quiver is only suitable for use in the most informal shooting conditions in your backyard, since arrows tend to fall out of such a quiver when walking long distances, and, of course, it should never be used to carry arrows with wide blade tips.
In the article, you will learn how to make it yourself Back quiver for arrows, such a quiver will be convenient both for clay pigeon shooting and for hunting with a bow (crossbow); the back quiver will not get in the way and the arrows are always at hand, and the fact that you make it yourself and independently develop the design of the quiver will give it individuality, and also such a quiver will become a great gift lover of shooting or hunting with a bow (crossbow).
Quiver, or tul, - equipment for throwing weapons, a special bag-case in which arrows or bolts were carried. It was located on the belt or behind the back of foot riflemen; for horsemen, it was usually on the belt or suspended from the saddle. The arrows were placed with the feathers facing up to make them easy to retrieve and load.
Materials and tools:
- PVC pipe (wide from 10 cm in diameter);
- fabric (of your choice);
- pieces and strips of leather;
- needle and thread for sewing;
- nylon belt (from a briefcase, equipment, or buy at a sports store);
- board;
- fabric glue and epoxy glue;
- sandpaper;
- stationery (construction) knife;
- drill and drill bits;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- jigsaw
Step 1
Take a PVC pipe and cut it to the required length, depending on the length of the arrows (approximately from 60 to 85 cm). Let's measure the inner diameter PVC pipes, draw a circle with the resulting diameter, and cut along the circle with a jigsaw - this will be the bottom of the quiver; Let's try to put the “bottom” inside the pipe and, if necessary, trim and adjust the “bottom” with a file. Use sandpaper to sand the edges of the pipe, making them smooth and even, and thoroughly sand the surface of the “bottom” of the quiver.
Step 2
Take a PVC pipe and the “bottom” of the quiver, apply epoxy glue along the edge (rib), carefully and evenly install the “bottom” of the quiver inside the PVC pipe and leave until the glue dries.
Take the selected fabric and cut a piece: in height - the length of the PVC pipe + 1-2 cm; in length - pipe circumference (can be measured with a flexible meter) + 0.5-1 cm.
Clean the surface of the pipe from dust and dirt and degrease, gradually applying glue to the pipe, glue the fabric to the pipe; the fabric protruding beyond the length of the pipe is glued to the bottom of the quiver blank, so we gradually cover the entire surface of the pipe with fabric. When everything is finished, leave until the glue dries.
We will finally secure the “bottom” in the pipe; to do this, we will drill several holes (3-4) in the pipe (in the area of the bottom) and hammer in nails (or better yet, tighten the screws).
Stepping back 10-15 cm from below (your distance may be different), drill 2 holes at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other; We'll do the same on top of the pipe.
We will pass the leather strips (belts) through the holes.
Step 3
Decorate the top and bottom of the quiver. Let's take another fabric (in this case, black velvety fabric). Cut 2 strips for the top and bottom of the quiver (the bottom strip is approximately 2 times narrower than the top) long enough to wrap the quiver around (the circumference of the pipe). Fold the strip in half, mark and cut out holes on the edge (bottom strip - 2; top - 3) to tie with leather strips.
We simply wrap the bottom strip around the bottom of the quiver and lace it with leather strips, tightly enough so that the strip of fabric does not fly off. We don’t cut the leather laces, we leave them like that - it looks more beautiful.
We also wrap the top strip around the top of the quiver, but leave a few centimeters on top to fold the fabric inside the pipe, and lace it with leather strips. We cut the fabric that remains on top with scissors, smear the edge of the pipe and inner part glue the pipes and bend the fabric inward, gluing it to the pipe.
Step 4
Take a nylon belt and make loops at both ends. It is better if you find or buy in a store a belt with loops or carabiners at the ends and the ability to adjust the length of the belt.
Let's close the seam and at the same time make an attachment for the belt. Take a wide leather strip (or nylon belt) and cut it to the required length. Starting from the top, fix it (with glue) inside the quiver, then pass it through the belt loops (or the belt is then attached to the strip using leather laces), and glue the leather strip in the middle exactly along the seam (so that the belt loops are fixed at the top and bottom of the quiver) , bend the strip down and use glue (a construction stapler) to attach it to the bottom of the quiver.
Back quiver for arrows ready. You can give it to a friend who loves archery (crossbow) or wear it yourself. The quiver will not interfere or restrict your movements during shooting and when moving and will emphasize your character and individuality.
August 20, 2014Archery, like many other hobbies, requires all kinds of equipment, and sometimes very expensive ones. For example, every fan of this type of shooting needs to acquire a quiver for arrows - a quiver is needed for their safe storage.
Instead of spending money on this item, you can make it yourself. Thus, as a result, you will receive a unique quiver at minimal cost.
This article will tell you how to make a quiver. Two DIY projects will be presented: a simple arrow quiver and a quiver with an interesting finish. Let's start with a simple quiver.
Simple arrow quiver
In order to make such an arrow quiver, you will need the following materials:
- PVC tube (approximately 30-40 centimeters);
- a plug to block one of the ends of the pipe (materials such as wood or foam plastic are suitable for the plug, but only dense enough);
- a nylon belt (it can be cut from an old unnecessary briefcase);
- good glue;
- textile.
You can also make a wooden stopper for your quiver yourself. Here's how it's done:
Once all the parts for a simple quiver are ready, you can proceed directly to its manufacture: using glue, you need to fasten the cork and PVC tube, and then you will have to sit down at the sewing machine. 
Take a nylon belt. From it you should get a part, as in the picture. This part is necessary to support the arrow quiver itself and to attach the quiver to the belt. To make it, cut a piece from the belt, slightly longer than the girth of the PVC tube, and sew a ring from the cut strip. Then sew one of the ends of the remaining part of the belt to the resulting ring, insert the second end into the ring and sew it, but already retreating some distance, as in the picture with the image of the part.
As soon as this part of the arrow quiver is ready, we proceed to making a fabric cover. You need to take enough fabric to wrap the PVC pipe, and still have a small supply left.
First, measure a piece of fabric such that its length is equal to the length of the tube, and its width is equal to the circumference of the tube. After this, we place the tube vertically on the remaining piece of fabric and trace it around the perimeter, we will get a circle. Once the outlines of the pieces on the fabric are marked, they can be cut out. 
But you just need to cut it not along the contour itself, but retreating from it about five millimeters on all sides, that is, expanding the boundaries of the parts so that they can be sewn, and the resulting cover will fit the tube.
When the parts are cut out, we take our rectangular part and sew it into a tube, then sew a round bottom to the tube. As a result, you should have a cover for your arrow quiver, as in the picture.
Now the sewing is done and you can stretch the nylon belt piece onto the PVC tube, and then the fabric cover. Please note that the fabric cover must first be turned inside out - then all the ugly seams will disappear. Once all this is done, all that remains is to attach the carabiner keychain to the nylon belt. And now the simplest quiver for arrows is ready. As you can see, it wasn't that difficult to make.
The carbine can then be attached to the belt, so the new arrow holder will ensure that the arrows will not interfere with marksmanship, but at the same time will be in an accessible place.
Finished arrow quiver
If the simplest quiver for arrows does not suit you, and you are ready to spend a lot of time and effort, but as a result get a beautiful, intricate quiver, then the following master class will suit you. Of course, the quiver will not only be beautiful, but also comfortable. 
First of all, we need to think about the shape of our arrow quiver. When designing the shape of the quiver, the following aspects must be considered:
- length of arrows;
- individual shooting characteristics of a particular shooter;
- own taste.
As you can see in the images, the shanks of arrows placed in such a quiver will be at different heights. This is actually a little trick. Different heights of arrows will allow you to determine by touch which of the arrows lie more freely in the quiver.
In addition, you may notice that a quiver of this shape has a widened bottom and a narrowed neck. The first is necessary so that a large number of arrows with humanizers fit into the quiver, and the second is necessary so that the arrows do not stick out from the quiver in a wide fan.
The inclined bottom of the quiver should be made so that as space becomes available in the quiver, the arrows move to one side, in this case to the right. You can make your own adjustments to the shape of the quiver, which, in your opinion, will make the quiver more convenient and beautiful. 
Once the shape of the quiver is thought out to the smallest detail, we move on to the next stage of work on the manufacture of devices for arrows. Next we will need to make a pattern for the quiver. When unfolded, the quiver shown above will look like the picture below. This pattern requires the use of a compass, pencil, ruler and drawing skills.
At the next stage, you can come up with an interesting design to decorate our arrow quiver. For example, in this master class we present to your attention a drawing of a bird. As you probably already guessed, this is a phoenix, fictional character, who has the ability to be reborn from the ashes. 
The drawing should initially be drawn on plain paper. Draw and then try to discard all unnecessary details. This way you will greatly simplify your task: firstly, you will spend less time drawing the picture, and secondly, you will have a greater chance of drawing a neat and legible drawing.
The basis of the quiver for arrows will be thick and dense cow leather taken from the back. It is necessary that this leather is not dyed.
The drawing of the quiver drawn on paper must be cut out and then the contours drawn on the skin. Please note that the arrow quiver pattern must be made with an additional flap and cut so that its edges can be overlapped by approximately five centimeters. Later you will find out why you need to do this. The connecting seam will be located on the side surface of our arrow quiver on the bend, it is placed closer to the back. It is this placement of the seam that will make it less catchy.
Next, you need to transfer the design from the paper to the skin as carefully as possible. This can be done using carbon paper. As soon as this step is ready, you can begin to cauterize the contours of the pattern transferred to the skin using a burner. The result should be something like the arrow quiver in the photo below. 
Next, you need to grind off from the inside of the skin those five spare centimeters that were left earlier. This procedure can be done using a belt sander; you need to grind it diagonally. It is worth noting that this is quite a dirty job. By the way, shoemakers carry out this operation using a special knife. 
To make it clearer what the essence of such a procedure is, look at how the edge of the workpiece for the quiver should look like as a result, it is clearly demonstrated in the image below. 
Fully back side Patterns for a quiver for arrows are shown in the picture below. In the photo you can see that at the edges the color of the material is slightly different from the color of the central part. And all precisely because along the edges we ground off areas of skin five centimeters wide. 
The next stage in the production of an arrow quiver is dyeing the leather. It is worth noting that this is a rather long and labor-intensive stage. To give the quiver a nice color, you can use special acrylic paint for leather. You can also use regular acrylic fabric paint. It is best to carry out the painting itself using an airbrush. Choose colors to suit your taste. 
Immediately before painting, the blank for the arrow quiver should be hung vertically. You can mount it directly on the wall of the apartment, but first hang some protective material so as not to paint the wall itself along with the workpiece. How to paint the quiver is up to you, but do not forget about accuracy.
Now we proceed to the next stage of making the quiver: we make a pipe from the blank. Pre-helpful with masking tape completely seal all those areas where it is extremely undesirable for glue to come into contact. 
After this, we smear the ground edges with glue and connect them. To make gluing more convenient, you can place a cardboard tube inside. By the way, it is useful to thoroughly roll the seam with a rolling pin, which is found in every home; this simple procedure will make the seam more durable. In the picture below you can see exactly how the arrow quiver should be glued together. 
Now we can start making the bottom of the quiver. To do this, we need to cut out three completely identical oval pieces. If you look at the very first drawing of the quiver, you will see gray ovals - sections of the quiver, which is exactly what we are making now. We glue all three ovals together, the result is a very strong and thick piece of leather - this is the strong and reliable bottom of the quiver for arrows. An arrow quiver must have a sufficiently strong bottom, otherwise the bottom will simply bend and sag during use.
The bottom, made according to the instructions above, is so hard that all the necessary holes will have to be drilled in it. In the image below you can see the bottom, which has already gone through the process of turning on a belt sanding machine from the ends. In addition, you can see many holes that were made using a punch. The bottom itself is glued into side walls our arrow quiver using Moment glue. By the way, it is useful to tap the glue seam with a hammer for reliability.
Then you need to make many strips of leather. Make your own needle by bending a piece of wire properly, as shown in the picture below. Please note that the needle should not be sharp, otherwise you risk seriously injuring your hand during the process of making the quiver.
The next stage of work is stitching the bottom and side walls of our quiver. At the end you should be left with two short pieces of leather tape sticking out, like in the photo below.
To connect these ends, carefully cut the tape at an angle using a sanding knife, and then glue the ends together using Moment glue.
If everything is done carefully, the gluing area will not even be visible. But if you suddenly did not have enough length of the tape when you passed it along the perimeter of the quiver, then you can extend the tape in the same way: by cutting the ends diagonally and gluing them with Moment glue.
Complete appearance You can use rhinestones to make a quiver for arrows. In the picture below, for example, Swarovski thermal crystals were used. They are glued using a soldering iron. However, of course, not all representatives of the stronger sex will approve of rhinestones. 
When the appearance of the arrow quiver is ready, you should take care of its rigidity. The rigidity of the quiver will be provided by a wire frame at the mouth. The wire should be made of steel, about three millimeters thick. You will have to bend the frame out of it yourself. 
A neat frame for the quiver under the mouth will require a lot of time and patience from you. However, it is worth spending time on this, since due to a poor, inaccurate frame, the skin fixed to it can stretch and swell in places.
The ends of the wire must be ground off diagonally using a Dremel or an ordinary grinder. Please note that you need to grind with an overlap. After this, the ends of the wire must be thoroughly degreased so that they can subsequently be tinned with a gas burner and soldering acid. After the work has been done, wash everything thoroughly so that there is no acid left anywhere, and degrease again. Finally, you need to wrap everything with thin copper wire, as was done in the photo below.
During the manufacturing process of this part of the quiver, the tin may burn out prematurely; to avoid this, soak everything with flux. Then using gas burner The joint area should be carefully heated, and using a solder wire, the wrapped joint area should be filled with molten tin.
We fill until the tin begins to flow down, forming a drop. Shake off all excess tin and cool the place where the soldering was done. During soldering, keep a vessel with water somewhere nearby, this is necessary in order to eliminate excess tin and cool the joint area.
Next, we stretch the leather piece onto the frame and begin stitching our arrow quiver. The top of the quiver is stitched in the same way as its bottom was stitched. 
Please pay Special attention on the outer corners: in these places you need to pass the braid through one hole two, or even three times. All turns must be tightened as tightly as possible so that during operation the arrow quiver does not lose its attractive appearance.
Finally we are coming to the finish line. The only thing left to worry about is how to secure the straps to the quiver. To do this you will need the appropriate fittings. The fittings presented in this master class were cast; the photograph below shows plaster molds made from a plasticine model. 
Using these molds, tin parts were cast and subsequently sanded. It was also necessary to make holes in the elements, which resulted in the parts shown in the picture below. Three parts for three belts.
To fix these parts, you need to make some holes in the quiver, as in the picture below. 
Inside the quiver, the parts are attached using dowels. And finally, our beautiful, comfortable and durable arrow quiver is ready! 
