Door block plastic GOST. Technical characteristics and GOST standards for PVC doors. Features of balcony doors

During repair work New interior doors are often installed in the apartment. This process is not that complicated, so installing interior doors with your own hands is doable. The main thing is to study the nuances and installation technology.

Do-it-yourself interior door installation

At self-installation There are many nuances and features of an interior door. The most common of them will be announced in the instructions.

Definition with dimensions

The main thing you need to do before installing an interior door is to determine its size. Mistakes are not allowed here.

It is best to measure the prepared doorway when the old panel and frame have already been removed. This is the only way to get the right result. To measure, it is necessary to determine the narrowest place and measure the width and length of the opening along the wall. Yes, the outside dimensions door frame must be less than the value obtained during measurements. If, for example, the resulting value is 78 cm, then the block is installed with parameters of 70 cm, since a wider version will no longer fit into this opening. Usually, in apartments, builders immediately set standard dimensions, so choosing a door from the assortment presented in the store will not be difficult.

If it is necessary to install a door in a non-standard opening, an individual order will be required.

Preparation of tools

After the right door purchased, you must immediately prepare the tools that you will need when working:

or a drill with 3 and 4 mm drills;
drills for concrete walls 4 and 6 mm;
wood screws;
saw or jigsaw;
building level and plumb line;
roulette;
pencil;
polyurethane foam.

Box assembly

The technology for installing an interior door involves initially cutting the posts to the length of the doorway. The evenness of the floor is measured by a level; if the characteristic is satisfactory, then the racks are made identical. When making calculations, it is important to understand that the racks are always 1–2 cm longer than the canvas itself, taking into account the cuts, and there is a gap of 1 cm under the door.

After determining the length of the racks, saw off the lintel part, which is longer than the width of the door leaf. Additionally, the length includes a gap of 7 - 8 mm, which is distributed:

5 - 6 mm - on the hinge structure;
2.5 – 3 mm – compensation type gaps.

Since the doors are made of wood that changes its original dimensions, the gaps will allow the door to open unhindered under any conditions. Then the box is assembled. Methods for connecting planks to each other:

At an angle of 45°. This solution is the most correct and aesthetically correct, but also difficult to implement due to high precision cut to avoid gaps. You can make such cuts using a carpenter's miter box. An unpleasant moment can be the occurrence of chips, so use only the sharpest tool possible. Next, drill three holes on each side. So, it turns out that 2 holes are located on top at a distance of 1 cm from the edge and 1 on the side in the middle. The screws are tightened perpendicular to the connection.
At an angle of 90°. In this option it is more difficult to make a mistake, but you need to remove the protrusions at the junction of the lintel and the racks. To do this, place the lintel in the corner with a fairly large margin. Remove all excess with a chisel. Set an even angle. In a fixed position, drill holes with a diameter several millimeters smaller than the self-tapping screw. Strictly observing the angle and excluding the relief, connect this node.

If you mean setting a threshold, then the box turns out to look not like the letter P, but like a rectangle. For the threshold you need to correctly determine the location. This is done after collecting the U-shaped box and attaching the canvas to it. 2.5 mm are removed from it and a threshold is attached to this place.

Assemble parts on the floor.

Inserting hinges and installing fittings

Installing an interior door with your own hands involves inserting 2 hinges, but in some cases there may be 3. They are placed at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf.

The attachment point should not contain knots if the door is made of solid wood.

To begin with, the hinges are mounted on the door leaf according to the following algorithm:

Place the loops in the desired places, outlining their outline with a well-sharpened pencil or blade.
Making a recess with a router or chisel along the contour.
Install the loop into the recess evenly with the surface of the canvas.
Fixing the hinge with self-tapping screws.

Afterwards, the canvas is placed in a box, the required gaps are set on the side of the hinge mechanisms - 6 mm, in the upper part and on the opposite side - 3 mm, and fixed with wedges. Mark the places on the box where the second part of each loop will be located. After this, a recess is created for the hinges on the door frame.

As a rule, interior doors are sold without handles. Therefore, in the process of installing an interior door with your own hands, you will have to think about this. The location of the handle is determined by the owner depending on his height and ease of use. As a standard, the handle and lock, if one is intended, are attached to the canvas at a distance of 0.9 to 1.2 m from the floor. This is the most convenient place for the average person to use.

Installation of the box

Before installing the door frame of the interior door, you need to knock out everything in the opening that could interfere with installation or fall off. In the case of problematic walls, they are pre-treated with primers deep penetration. If there are large holes, they are sealed plaster mixture. The prepared opening is a step towards the correct installation of the interior door.

After preparation, the door frame is installed and its verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. It is installed in such a way that the canvas subsequently creates a single plane with the wall. If the wall is not flat, then the door frame is not aligned along it, but vertically.

To avoid distortion, before installing the door, temporary spacers are installed on the floor in the door frame, giving it greater rigidity.

After the selected position of the door frame, it is secured with mounting wedges made of wood or plastic, which are placed on both sides of the lintel and above the racks. Check the verticality of the fixed door frame. At this stage, the canvas is inserted into the box and the door can be opened unhindered. If everything is satisfactory, then you can begin fastening.

There are several ways to attach a door frame to an opening:

right through to the wall;
mounting plates.

The first type is more reliable, but leaves behind visible fastener heads on the box. To fasten an interior door, it is quite enough to install two self-tapping screws in the recesses for the hinges in the frame and in the area for the lock on the other side. In this case, you need to ensure that the head of the screws is buried in the material and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges. Door frames with decorative strips that hide the fastening points are also now available.

To install an interior door in this way, you will need to drill holes for screws with a concrete drill. If desired, you can drill through-type holes in other areas of the box, and cover their locations with matching overlays.

The second method is to pre-attach mounting plates to the back of the frame, which help secure the door. This option allows you to avoid drilling the door frame and wall.

Hanging the canvas

Thus, after installing the box, you can begin to foam the gaps between it and the wall. Before this, the wall should be moistened with water for better polymerization of the polyurethane foam. You need an amount of material that fills the space by no more than 2/3. If you squeeze out more, the foam may blow the box inside.

To prevent deformation of the box during foaming, it is worth installing spacers.

The foam polymerization time is indicated on the packaging and may vary among specific manufacturers. Once the substance has completely hardened, the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the operation of the new door is checked.

Finishing the finished door

The doorway after installing the doors in the apartment requires additional finishing to make it more decorative. There are several options here:

If the wall is thin, install platbands covering the foamed area. They are fastened with nails without heads or screws with special plugs.
With a wide wall, install platbands and additional strips, which are cut to width and mounted on construction silicone. In this case, the platbands are installed in the same way as in the previous case.

Installing an interior door step by step instructions- a difficult process that requires some skill. But, if you take into account all the features during installation, then it is quite possible to do this without the need to contact specialists.

Video instructions for installing interior doors

U The installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors, fittings and opening sizes, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.

Door opening dimensions

Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

Opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door widths for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that a 60cm thick washing machine can easily pass through the opening. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58 cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
V dressing room Usually they make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.

If you install it, it will be good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Typically, if your door opens into a room, the frame is flush with room wall, and the additional collection will be in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme for opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows don't forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity When carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in adjacent rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tiled or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, takes quite a long time to dry, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake repair teams make is openings that are too high, because maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions, applying it to the wall long rule, additional or flat board. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling out the platbands from the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam cross-section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint when closed door should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily needs to be laid dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the mate, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those who want to install sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If interior door I don’t want to install it, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door, it surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. Most common door hinges There are several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional, familiar to all of us mortise hinges. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

— time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

It is best to choose locks and latches based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high-quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.

You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
The canvas should fit evenly along the entire length to the vestibule or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only by construction foam, but also with the help of fasteners
The canvas should not close or open on its own.
The fittings must rotate freely
The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.

1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide professional equipment: a miter saw, sawing table or manual Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, hammer drill, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

IN this material will be considered most important points, which you should pay attention to when installing interior doors. How to install an interior door yourself, which interior doors to install - this is a question that novice builders ask.

It should be noted that with great desire, minimal skills and a set of simple tools- this is quite real. Which interior doors to install is an individual matter, which depends on taste and financial capabilities.

Before installing interior doors with your own hands, you need the following tools:

impact drill and drill bits for concrete;
chisel;
hammer;
hacksaw;
building level;
nail puller;
axe;
construction miter box;
tape measure and pencil;
goniometer

Removing the old door

Before installing interior doors, you need to dismantle old door(cm. ). To do this you need to use a nail puller. We lift the door and remove it from its hinges.

It is advisable to do this work together, as it is safer and easier. To remove old trim, you can use a nail puller or an ax. Thus we dismantle the old box.

Size matters

Before you install the interior door yourself, you need to decide on the width of the doorway. Standard width the door leaf becomes 600, 700, 800 and 900 mm.

You need to think carefully before you want to reduce it. After all, furniture will still have to be brought in or taken out through it.

If narrowing the doorway is necessary, then you need to prepare a wooden beam in advance. The width of the beam should be equal to the width of the box. You need to insert it between the frame and the wall, securing it with dowels.

Installation steps

Box measurement

You need to start inserting an interior door by measuring the door frame.

First we attach the top cross member to the top of the door. We measure the distance that needs to be sawed off.
Next, we do the same with two longitudinal crossbars. We fasten them together with self-tapping screws.
Two self-tapping screws at each mounting point will be sufficient.. In this process, the main thing to remember is that there must be a gap of 4-5 mm between the frame and the doors, so that the door can freely fit into the frame and there will be no rubbing.

Important. The distance between the floor and the door should be within 10-15 mm, and between the frame and the doors - 4-5 mm.

The next step in installing interior doors will be inserting the hinges. It's easier to do this when the box is already assembled.

So:

First of all, we cut the hinges into the door leaf. To do this, you need to measure 200 mm from the top and bottom of the door.
We apply the hinge to the door and draw an outline.
Further along the contour, using a chisel and hammer, we make a notch depth equal to the thickness of the loops.
Attaching the doors to the frame and we already outline the outline on the box with further cutting out the recess.
We attach the hinges (see) to the doors and frame using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in them. This is done to prevent the fabric from splitting.
If we install interior doors, then you should remember that there are left-handed and right-handed loops.

Important. You need to understand which side of the door and frame to install the hinges on so that the interior door opens in the direction you want. Screw feet need to be lubricated machine oil or special graphite lubricant.

Installation of interior door frames

The next step on how to install an interior door is to install and strengthen the frame in the doorway.

So:

To do this, place the box in the opening and carefully align and center it. This is a very important and responsible moment.
We secure the box with wedges at the top and bottom. Using a drill, we make three holes in each post of the box. As a result, there will be six marks left on the wall along which we will make holes for attaching the box.
We take out the wedges and remove the box.
Using a hammer drill with a concrete drill, follow the marks on the wall and make six holes for the dowels. Next, insert the dowels into the holes.
We install the box and again center and level it using a level.
We secure the box with long self-tapping screws, which in turn are closed with special caps to match the color of the door.

Installation requires tools and basic construction skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash and the formation of cracks. Door blocks are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, installation will be more difficult due to the need self-assembly ludki.

The installation of doors begins with the preparation of tools. For installation work you will need:

To place the door level, you need a plumb line and a level. For measurements and markings, use a tape measure with a pencil.
The process of assembling and installing interior doors includes final finishing with platbands and, if necessary, extensions. To cut planks, a hacksaw with fine teeth, miter box.
The power tool you need is a drill with a set of drill bits for concrete and wood, as well as a screwdriver.
It’s easier to make cuts for fittings with a milling cutter, but if you don’t have a tool, you can get by with a chisel and hammer.

The materials used are self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, and also many wooden wedges of different thicknesses for spacers. You need to immediately decide how to install interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.

If preference is given hidden installation, additionally purchase suspensions. You can fix the boat with anchors. Sink the caps into secret holes, putty them, and paint over them.

How to install an interior door with your own hands?

If you know how to use the tool, you can install the doors yourself. It is important to initially take all accurate measurements to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:

If the frame is sold disassembled, it will have to be assembled. This work increases the installation time of the interior door and also complicates the process.
All elements of the door block are equipped with fittings: handles, locks, latches. On a system consisting of rollers and guide rails. When installing a swing door, the door leaf is secured to the door with hinges.
After assembling the structure, the installation of doors in the apartment begins with. In the opening, the frame is fixed with anchors or hangers, and the gaps are filled with foam.
The sash is hung on the installed boat, adjustments are made, and it is placed with.

To execute correct installation interior door with your own hands, even before purchasing the door block for sure. The dimensions of the frame must be smaller than the passage, otherwise it will have to be removed. It is optimal to maintain gaps when installing an interior door between the door and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.

Mandatory, but necessary if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. Protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.

Box assembly

The installation of an interior door begins by unpacking the purchased unit and inspecting all components. The door frame can be sold assembled or disassembled individual elements with mounting grooves.

If you purchased a boat with ready-made fasteners, you just need to assemble it. The frame is sold from elements cut to size. There can be three of them: a false and hinged stand, as well as a lintel top bar. If a threshold is provided, then a fourth element is included.

To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out from the ends of the racks along with connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame elements are joined so that they coincide mounting holes. The connecting pins are driven in with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.

When knocking out the plugs, the blows are applied through wooden pads to prevent the destruction of the decorative coating.

Much more complex, sold in the form of blanks made of figured veneered timber. You will need woodworking tools, as well as basic knowledge carpentry. consists of the following steps:

First, measure the sash. The length of the frame elements is calculated so that between internal part between the pan and the canvas, a gap of 3 mm was formed around the entire perimeter. If it is intended to install a sealing rubber, the size of the gap is calculated taking into account its thickness.

The blanks are marked, then sawed with a wood hacksaw with fine teeth at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Direct docking is easier. To properly saw off a corner, the workpiece is placed in a miter box. Connect the prepared elements of the box with long self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes.

It is easier for an inexperienced person to install doors without a threshold, since only three elements will have to be connected. The shape of the box is made in the form of the letter “P”. The edges of the upper lintel are placed on the ends of the racks. Each joint is secured with two self-tapping screws.

The sash is placed in the finished frame. Measure the gaps between the door and frame on three sides, keeping to the required 3 mm. The racks below will rest on the floor. The length is calculated so that there is a gap of 8–15 mm between the floor covering and the lower end of the sash.
To install the threshold of an interior door, the frame is assembled from four elements. The lower jumper is inserted between the posts and then secured with self-tapping screws. The gap between the threshold and the end of the sash is maintained at 3 mm.

After the frame is made, the door leaf is laid. Having retreated 25 cm from above and below, on the hinge stand, as well as the end of the sash, mark the installation locations for the hinges. To prevent the fastening plates from protruding, recesses are selected in the wood using a chisel or milling cutter.

Two ways to install the box

Open way provides anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Displayed vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level and a plumb line. Maintaining a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven between the frame and the walls. By knocking or loosening the spacers, the frame is perfectly level.

WITH inside boxes with increments of 50–60 cm are drilled through holes with countersunk recesses. Holes are made in the wall using a concrete drill. The anchors are screwed in so that the head is hidden inside the secret recess. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is filled with foam. Secret holes are puttied and then painted over.

Second closed method installation of the box involves the use of hangers used in the manufacture of plasterboard frames, or a special mounting system. The metal strip is screwed with self-tapping screws to the underside of the frame. The box is inserted into interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the suspension petals are bent onto the wall, secured with self-tapping screws and plastic dowels.

Installation of additional equipment

When installing a door block in a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to cover the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. Decorative strips are installed on the longitudinal groove of the frame, having previously lubricated the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide a lock for the extensions, the planks are fixed through secret holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastening pitch is 60 cm.

Installation of door leaf

Before installing the door, the door leaf is equipped with fittings. There are different types and colors of canopies available in the market. The place for their fastening is determined before installing the box. For interior doors, it is popular to install butterfly awnings that do not require insertion.

Two hinges are installed on a light sash, with a distance of 25 cm at the top and bottom. The heavy leaf is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. With the open method of fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on suspensions, the problem with the location of the fasteners disappears.

The gap between the end of the sash and the hinge post of the frame should be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. Use a chisel to select a recess under the mounting plate of the hinge. The canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.

The door leaf along with the hinges is inserted into the frame. Wedges are used to push the sash apart to create gaps around the perimeter. Places for making recesses are marked on the hinge stand. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed in with self-tapping screws.

The handle with the lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. Use a pencil to mark the location of the handle and outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the canvas, use drills or a chisel to select a recess. Drill for handle through hole. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. A sample is made on the box stand opposite the lock and a counter plate of the locking hardware is installed.

To install doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the polyurethane foam has completely hardened.

Fastening platbands

The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are installed on both sides interior opening. sell wooden, plastic or MDF. The shape can be simple flat, beveled or curly. to the end interior box locking connection, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed. The planks can be glued, but the adjacent wall must be perfectly flat and finished with durable cladding.

To perform a simple installation of door trims, first attach a horizontal strip level. The edges are pre-sawed off at an angle of 45°. Vertical slats are installed from the floor. Mark a cutting line at the top at a similar angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. If a gap forms, putty is used. After hardening, the flaws are painted over.

Platbands can be joined at right angles. The upper bar is placed between vertical elements or laid on top on the end.

Installation of the stop

A hinged interior door opened as children run and hits the wall with its handles. It's spoiling decorative finishing and even the plaster is crumbling. It helps to install a door stop that prevents the door from opening completely.

The stop is a barrel with a rubber nozzle. The limiter is installed after installing the door block and all finishing work. The interior door is opened to the desired position. The location of the stop is marked on the floor. Use an electric drill to drill a hole, drive in a fastening screw and tighten the stopper.

How to change the canvas?

Often during repairs, only replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much simpler than installing an interior door from scratch.

The old fabric is removed from the hinges. Awnings usually consist of two detachable halves. To remove the interior sash, it is enough to pry it open from below with a pry bar. If the axial rod is inserted from above in the hinges, the canvas will not be removed. First, a screwdriver is inserted under the head of the rod, then it is knocked out of the socket with hammer blows. Dismantling begins from the bottom loop. After removing the rods, the sash can be easily removed.
Two canvases are compared in size, laid on top of each other. If the new fold is larger than the old one, mark the boundaries with a pencil. Excess areas are cut off manually circular saw. The cuts are adjusted with a plane and processed with a grinder.
The door leaf, adjusted to size, is equipped with hinges, a lock, and a handle.
Hanging on the hinges occurs in the reverse order.

If the new canvas has been adjusted, the cut points need to be masked. Paint material choose a similar color or completely repaint the entire canvas.

Sooner or later you have to change your interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is necessary to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few self-tapping screws - you can do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here too there are peculiarities. About all the subtleties - in photos and videos with detailed instructions.

Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and frame is different. The door leaf is:

From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. Represent wooden frame, to which the laminated fiberboard is attached. They have low sound insulation, are susceptible to high humidity, and are easily damaged.
From MDF. They cost much more, but also quality characteristics much higher. They have better sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, are stronger and more durable.
Wood. The most expensive doors. They are made from different types of wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.

Door frames are also made from the same materials. The worst choice is that fiberboard boxes bend even under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is a real pain. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is another material: laminated wood. It is good because it does not need to be processed or painted, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are produced in standard sizes, it’s a pity that the standards are different countries are different. For example, in our country swing doors made with a width of 600 - 900 mm in increments of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here are the most narrow doors 690 mm and further in increments of 100 mm.

Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.

What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to put them. If we talk about standards, the following values are recommended:

V living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.

If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.

How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide you need door block. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.

The most complete set of interior doors - with frame, extensions and trims

When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:

Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.

Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in photo or video material.

Step 1: Assembling the Door Frame

If you did not buy an assembled door block, the first thing you will have to do is assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.

Connection methods

There are at least two options for how to connect these planks to each other:

Regardless of exactly how you plan to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to cut down the pillars and lintels on one side. Then they are placed in a box on the floor, checking the correct connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.

Determining the dimensions

When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the posts will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but this is also enough for the doors to warp.

When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (including cuts). Make a 1 cm gap under the door if you are not planning to put a rug under it. If there is a rug/carpet/carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are necessary for. Please note once again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the cut. Having cut it off, try on the racks in the doorway.

Now you need to saw off the lintel to length and, if necessary, saw on the other side (if the joint is at 45°). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum gap is 7 mm, but more is often done. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. To accommodate these changes, clearances are required. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in damp rooms. For the bathroom, definitely leave a little more, otherwise in high humidity they may have difficulty opening.

So, we have decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:

for hinges - 5-6 mm;
at the top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
bottom - 1-2 cm.

After you have cut all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box on the floor. If you notice any shortcomings in the connection somewhere, correct them using sandpaper, fixed on a block. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.

Assembly

Regardless of the material of the box and the connection method, holes are pre-drilled for the fasteners so that the material does not tear. The diameter of the drill is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.

The box is folded and the angles are set to 90°. Holding the stand and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold it. If you are working alone, temporarily secure the correctly aligned box with two cross bars - closer to the top and one at the bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the correct connection.

If connected at an angle of 45°, make three holes on each side. Two on top - a centimeter away from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.

If you connected at 90°, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, pointing the drill straight down.

Step 2: Inserting the hinges

Most often, 2 hinges are installed on interior doors, but 3 are possible. They are placed 200-250 mm away from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a place so that there are no knots. First, attach the hinges to the door leaf. The operating procedure is as follows:

We apply loops to the selected places and outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise using a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and leaves smaller gaps.
If they have it, if not, take a chisel and select a material for the thickness of the loop. There is no need to make any more sampling, just for the thickness of the metal.
A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Having secured two hinges, lay the door leaf in assembled box, set the correct gaps: on the hinge side - 5-6 mm, 3 mm on the opposite side and on top. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed using wedges. Positioned exactly horizontally and vertical plane(you can use pads if necessary).

After setting, mark the locations of the mating parts of the loops. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove an already installed hinge and then install it in place. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.

DIY door hanging is described in detail in the video.

Step 3: Installing the Door Frame

The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing an interior door, knock down everything in the opening that could fall off. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with deep penetration primers with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are sealed with plaster; very large protrusions are trimmed off. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this on your own, make it easier on yourself.

The box is displayed without the door leaf. It is oriented strictly vertically. Verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. The level often gives an error, so it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.

To prevent the box from becoming warped during installation, install temporary spacers on the floor and bevels in the corners which give a high degree of rigidity. In order for the doors to open, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. This is the only way it will open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.

How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane as the wall

Once the position is selected, you can secure it. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the racks. In this way, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes so that they are not tilted forward or backward.

Then install the wedges at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. Wedge additionally and cross bar- in the middle. Check whether the elements of the box are bent somewhere, and correct if necessary. You can start fastening.

Step 4: Attaching the Box to the Doorway

There are also two mounting methods: through directly to the wall and with mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not afraid of the fastener caps in the box, you can attach it all the way through. It's reliable.

To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the lock mate. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or mating part. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and lining.

Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances regarding the placement of the door frame.

If such a quantity of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to match. Or there is also a special molding made of MDF with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strip.

The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for plasterboard, but there are also special ones that are thicker, although when installing interior doors, plasterboard ones will suffice.

Step 5: Foaming

After all the gaps are set and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled polyurethane foam. For better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. Then squeeze out the foam, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam may cause the box to blow inward. So don't overdo it.

To ensure that the doors are not warped by the foam, spacers are installed. But if you don't overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.

Spacers for fixing the frame - when installing the interior door this way, the frame should stand level

After the foam has polymerized ( exact time indicated on the cylinder) the spacers are removed and hung door leaf and check the operation of the door. Next come Finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - additions.

You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing overly complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.