Any home owner needs to have a place where he can do various things. handmade. If there is a need or desire to often swear something, then the best option for creating a workplace would be a workbench.
A workbench is a work table, which is a rather massive and heavy structure, wooden or metal parts.
According to their purpose, workbenches are divided into 3 types:
- carpentry workbench;
- metal workbench;
- carpenter's workbench.
A carpentry workbench is usually assembled from wooden parts and it is intended for wood processing. It is possible to work with metal on it, but it is not recommended, since metal is much stronger and can leave wooden surface workbench dents and scratches.
Therefore, to work with metal workpieces, a metal workbench made of metal is often used. It is also suitable for working with wood, so this option is considered universal.
A carpenter's workbench looks like a table up to 600 cm long and 100 cm wide. It is equipped with stops for fastening workpieces.
What should a carpenter's workbench be like?
Depending on the tasks performed, a carpentry workbench can be single or multi-seat. In the latter case, several people can work on it at once. Most often, workbenches are single and double.
The size of the workbench depends on the number of jobs it provides and on the individual parameters of the working person.
Factory-made workbenches may have various sizes. If the owner makes a workbench on his own, then it’s “for him.” The dimensions of the desktop should be such that it is convenient for a specific person to work on it:
- The height of the workbench is directly dependent on the height of its owner and averages 70 – 90 cm.
- Size work surface and the configuration of the workbench depend on exactly what operations are supposed to be performed on it.
- The length and width of the workbench also depend on the area of the existing workshop. Optimal sizes are as follows: length – 200 cm, width – 80 – 100 cm.
In, it is necessary to take into account the frequency of use of the workbench and the availability free space to install it:
- If you plan to work on it constantly and there is a place to install it, then it is better to build a stationary workbench.
- If the work will be carried out from time to time, and there is not much space for a workbench, then it is better to use a collapsible structure.
To do this, the worktop can be made removable - bolted, and the legs - folding. In addition, it is better to select a thinner material for the workbench; this will lighten the weight of the parts and simplify the assembly and disassembly operation.
Currently on sale you can find folding workbenches consisting of a tubular frame and chipboard or MDF boards as a tabletop. Typically, these structures are light in weight and rigid, so working on them is not very convenient.
To connect electrical equipment located on a workbench, you must have several electrical outlets nearby. All wires located near the working surface must be separated with a special box or enclosed in a corrugated pipe.
Materials used for self-construction of a workbench
Before starting work, design the future desktop and, based on the drawings, prepare all the necessary materials.
To assemble the workbench frame, it is better to choose a wooden beam:
- for the legs you will need material measuring 100*70 or 100*80 mm;
- for jumpers you can use thinner material – 100*50 mm.
For the countertop, it is better to choose wood from such species as: maple, beech, oak. You will need smooth boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. After manufacturing, the countertop should be well sanded and covered with a protective solution (oil or drying oil).
In addition, you will need the following components and tools:
- glue;
- screws and bolts;
- hammer;
- drill with drills;
- mallet;
- chisel;
- square;
- building level;
- sander or sandpaper.
In order to make sure that you can work on it after assembling the workbench, you can do the following: stand close to the workbench, extend your arms and rest your palms on it. If the dimensions are correct, then you will not have to bend your back.
Workbench equipment
Just have a work table, because the parts being processed need to be fixed somehow. For this purpose, the workbench must be equipped with a vice. Usually they are installed on both sides of the table: on the right, at the end of the table, one vice (transverse) is attached, and on the left, along the long side of the table, there are longitudinal ones.
The longitudinal clamp is used mainly to secure the workpiece during planing. Its jaws should be level with the table surface, parallel to its leading edge. On the bottom side, where the vice is attached, you need to install a plywood gasket, which will protect the bottom surface of the table from crushing.
The installation location of the vice and other equipment also depends on which hand is working - left or right. Basically, recommendations on the placement of equipment are given for “right-handed” craftsmen.
The work board is also equipped with a number of holes located at the front edge of the table. They are designed for installing metal or wooden stops used when working with parts of various lengths. Metal stops last longer, and wooden stops are safer for woodworking tools.
A tray or trough is made on the opposite long side of the table, which can be placed in while working.
The underbench part of the table can be used to store workpieces and tools. It can be equipped in several ways, depending on the personal preferences of the master:
- open shelves;
- closed shelves with doors;
- drawers.
The base of the workbench can be fixed to the floor, this will make it more stable. In addition to the vice, the workbench can be equipped with the following devices:
- wooden clamps;
- stationary drill;
- turning and milling equipment.
In this case, it is necessary to ensure the reliability of all fastenings and the presence of safety devices.
If the workbench is intended for use in the country, then it can be additionally equipped circular saw and Bulgarian.
Thus, if it is necessary to equip a workshop, any master has a choice: purchase a ready-made workbench or make it yourself. The second option will be cheaper and will allow you to build workplace most convenient for you and equipped with those devices that perform specific tasks.
A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out metalworking, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.
Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.
Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.
Workbench design
If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding work.
Materials
Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for the table top. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm
Guides for desk drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large table top allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.
The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. Profile pipe intended for the manufacture of frames. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which they will be mounted side panels. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
Second step - welding power frame workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will serve as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.
Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.
The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.
The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls plywood tables will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.
The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 boxes, if large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
You can place drawers on both sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and regular open shelves on the other.
After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes with inside the slides for the drawer guides will be attached.
The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. Welding seams need to be painted especially carefully. Drops of metal and uneven surfaces are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will simplify installation metal sheet on top of the tree. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach steel sheet for hidden screws wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like transparent paintwork, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.
The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to side walls , shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.
To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a bench
A vice is an indispensable attribute mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for the anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
- Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clear the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
- If a homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Plywood for board
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
Not a single workshop is complete without a workbench, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, since it must have a number of features that distinguish it from simple table and do it an indispensable assistant In workshop. How to make a simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands from wood will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:
- Stationary. The desktop is installed in a specific place, it is integrated into the interior of the workshop and is not intended to be moved.
- Folding. The workbench is installed in a specific place in the workshop, but it has several positions and can be easily transformed. For example, one position can be working, the second folded (retracted), or the workbench can be transformed to perform different technological operations.
- Mobile. Simply put, it’s a table on wheels. It can be easily moved to any convenient location in the workshop. As a rule, it can also be foldable, so it has the ability to transform to change operating states.
The design of a wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.
General description of the workbench design
This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side and has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) into a vertical position. Thus, this design well suited for rooms that have limited area, since free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.
A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:
| Name | Purpose and description |
| Tabletop | Working surface of the table |
| Frame | The supporting structure on which all other elements are based. |
| Support element | It is firmly attached to the wall and is one of the supports of the working surface. |
| Legs | Two support legs, structurally interconnected |
| Retainer | An element that is attached to the wall and serves to secure the folding workbench in the folded position |
All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.
Pre-production
Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare everything necessary tools and materials.
Tools and machines
During the production process, the following tools and devices will be required:
- or ;
- Miter saw;
- Drill or ;
- Level;
- Hand tools (screwdriver, hammer, etc.).
Materials and accessories
During the production process you will need following materials and components:
- 15-30mm thick (as an option or as a last resort);
- Beam (pine) 80x40;
- Piano loop;
- M10 bolts with nuts and washers (alternatively, you can use a hairpin);
- Self-tapping screws.
The process of making a carpentry workbench with your own hands
We will divide the entire production process into a number of simple technological operations.
Making a countertop
A sheet of plywood will be used to make the tabletop. There is no point in giving dimensions, since in each specific case the dimensions must be selected individually to suit the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at a given workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - it should be clear from the photos and videos general idea and concept.
- Surface evenness. If the tabletop shows signs of deformation and does not have a flat surface, then working on such a homemade workbench will be difficult, to say the least;
- Mechanical strength. The tabletop must be durable, that is, have greater resistance to mechanical loads. Since quite massive objects (machines or large-sized workpieces) can be installed on the desktop, the tabletop must withstand such loads and not deform during operation.
- Surface strength. Surface resistance to external mechanical influences. Since various works related to processing materials, painting, etc. are performed on the work table, the presence of a protective layer on the table top will be an advantage and will protect the surface from wear.
At this stage, marking is made required sizes future tabletop and trimming along the intended contours.
Frame - the base of the future homemade workbench
The frame is the main load-bearing element of a wooden workbench. It must be durable, since the entire load will fall on it. We recommend making it from solid wood, for example, 40x80mm timber.
The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, but if you make the base with a denser material, for example, beech, birch or oak, the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.
The frame has a “U-shaped” shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.
To fasten the bars together you can use different kinds fasteners, but the simplest and most universal way is to fasten them with self-tapping screws at the end. In this example, the method of hidden fastening with self-tapping screws is used.
Yes, with this option the screws are hidden and cannot be seen, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as a fastening with self-tapping screws at the end, and also using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.
In this example, the frame is fastened to the tabletop using self-tapping screws that go “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this type of fastening is the simplicity and concealment of the screws. However, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three fastening methods described below:
- Are being done through holes Self-tapping screws pass through the tabletop and through the tabletop into the frame. With this option there will be the maximum strength of the structure. The disadvantage is obvious - the heads of the screws will be visible on the tabletop, although, of course, they can be easily recessed and hidden “flush”.
- WITH internal corner Several (6-9 pieces) corners are installed between the tabletop and the frame, which are attached to self-tapping screws. The top surface of the tabletop will not be damaged and the appearance will be neat. However, fastening with self-tapping screws that do not go through the tabletop is not so reliable. Below is a picture of an example of using an inner corner.
Installing the support element
The supporting element is a simple block of the same cross-section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which needs to be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main support point of the future homemade bench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it’s difficult to suggest anything better than “planting” it on screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation we will use a level for leveling.
The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is being created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85 standard height 720–780 mm from the floor level is considered. Usually, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.
Fastening the frame with the tabletop to the supporting element can be done different ways. The simplest is to use a roller loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).
In addition to the piano loop, you can use various options movable joints - simple door hinges, "frogs" furniture hinges etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our DIY folding workbench.
Installing the feet
In addition to the supporting element, our homemade wooden workbench will rest on a couple of legs. They need to be made foldable so that when folded they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.
Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a section from a stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to add much variety to the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same 80x40mm block. In order for the legs to fold, they must have curves on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.
Set the axis of rotation of the leg. It is absolutely clear that if you simply tighten the bot, it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a pair, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when tightening the bolt, the washers will sink into the soft wood and just a third of the washer will be needed to ensure clearance.
Thus, you can make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. The design is simple and can and should be modernized by each master to suit himself, his workshop, his technological operations, but this is only a basis that can serve as an idea for further development of technical thought.
Video
Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have strived to arrange the workplace as comfortably as possible and, to put it simply, modern language, ergonomic, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not correspond to the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost the same as industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and we'll tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.
The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, and it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:
- The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.
Carpentry workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to take it into account design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, optimal solution will make it easier due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:
- A mobile workbench designed for minor repair work and manipulation of wood workpieces;
- Stationary workbench used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
- Collapsible or “transformable workbench”, convenient for its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.
Carpentry or metal workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since the creation of a metalworking bench is associated with a number of difficulties, in this manual we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box
Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, to build a workbench optimal material there will be planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For the tabletop, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or solid canvas, such as old wooden door or chipboard characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequencing
Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Installation of countertops;
- Installing equipment on a workbench.
Base assembly
Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.
Making a countertop and installing it
- When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which long nails are used, driven into the inside of the boards. The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws. drawers.
- The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.
- In addition to the vice, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps, stationary high power drill, selected varieties turning equipment, milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from the electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the simultaneously connected equipment, as well as to correctly carry out the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not examine in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.
To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin of stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only the upper part of the tabletop, but also its end elements.
- Design features
- Types of workbenches
- Material of manufacture
- Preparatory stage
- Tools and materials
- Assembly instructions
A carpenter's workbench, or lathe, is a massive, stable, stationary or portable workbench. It processes workpieces of various calibers using manual or electrical equipment. To ensure reliable fixation of the tool, the tabletop is equipped with technological holes.
Design features
Workbenches for home workshops should be easy to use and include shelves and drawers. Design:
- supporting frame on four legs;
- tabletop made of wood or metal sheet;
- a bedside table (one or more) for storing accessories and spare parts.
Bedside tables are installed along the edges of the working surface, often equipped with shelves and drawers.
The garage or workshop where the carpentry table will be installed must have an outlet for turning on a stationary rotating directional lamp. The lamp is usually mounted on the wall or directly on the work surface - a workbench board.
Types of workbenches
Tables are:
- carpentry,
- locksmiths.
In the first case, the structure consists of metal or wooden frame And wooden table top. Not suitable for processing metal blanks, when turning which it is used machine oil: The wooden workbench absorbs oily liquid. In addition, metal shavings quickly render the lid unusable.
The second option is a universal workbench. Its galvanized iron worktop is suitable for working with wood and metals. The design is more stable, durable, and can withstand increased pressure. It can be used for sharpening, grinding, sawing, and cutting workpieces. The workbench can be monolithic or folding. A drawing of a homemade workbench is shown in the image.
Material of manufacture
To make a homemade carpentry workbench, you will need an edged board or sheet metal. Metal table more resistant to mechanical stress, but difficult to assemble.
To make a workbench from metal, you need to draw up a drawing with dimensions individual elements. When assembling a folding or solid workbench from a board, you will need a regular set of tools.
The metal sample is heavy, the wooden one is not very durable. You can combine these two materials in one product: make a desktop from wood, reinforce the tabletop with a thin sheet of iron.
Preparatory stage
First you need to determine the shape and dimensions of the workbench and choose the location for its installation. To ensure that the workplace is always well lit, the light should fall from the left or directly. Often, sockets with extension cords are mounted on the surface of a workbench.
The length of the table top must be sufficient for processing workpieces and placing tools.
The optimal width parameters are 50–60 cm. One edge of the table is usually used for working with a circular saw and other power tools. Therefore, a safety strip with a protrusion of 20–30 cm is fixed there.
Convenience during work depends on the height of the workbench. In order to determine this parameter, you need to stand up straight and bend your elbows. The distance from the floor to the arms bent at the elbows is optimal for a stationary or folding workbench.
Tools and materials
Required:
- welding machine;
- corner Sander with a saw wheel designed for cutting metal;
- drill, screwdriver;
- level, roulette
- welding machine, set of electrodes;
- electric jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Materials:
- Metal corner, steel strip 4 mm thick.
- Sheet steel 2 mm thick. Guides for drawers and the top covering of the tabletop are made from it.
- Board wooden thick 50 mm, 25 cm wide for work surface.
- Plywood 15 mm thick. Designed for drawers, workbench walls.
- Fastening elements: metal screws, anchor bolts, screws.
- Two-millimeter square pipe.
- Paint for painting wooden and metal surfaces.
From edged boards construct a table top, shelves, strips of steel will be useful for making edging sides.
Assembly instructions
To begin with metal corner make 4 identical legs. The supports in the upper part are connected by a similar angle using welding machine. The resulting structure should be 50 x 100 cm. To provide the table with additional rigidity, pieces of corner are welded at a height of 10–15 cm from the floor. If desired, you can provide racks that serve as fastenings for drawers and shelves.
Wooden boards must be laid on the frame, securely secured with bolts, having previously provided metal carcass and the boards themselves have technological holes for fastening elements.
Wooden countertops cannot withstand increased loads. For protection, galvanized iron of suitable size is used. It is secured on top of the boards with self-tapping screws.
When cutting, metal edges often become covered with burrs. For safety, it is recommended to sand them with a file.
For greater stability, the legs at the bottom can be equipped with metal plates with holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to screw the workbench to the floor. On the side of the structure adjacent to the wall, they are often installed metal screen. It is convenient to place small tools on it.
