Exterior plastering of walls made of gas silicate blocks. Plastering gas silicate blocks. Prices for various types of decorative plaster

Recently, using blocks from cellular concrete not only carry out thermal insulation, but also build houses. This material is somewhat “capricious”, so plastering walls made of aerated concrete indoors and outdoors should be carried out taking into account some nuances.

Many craftsmen believe that finishing work on walls made of cellular concrete must be carried out immediately after the construction of the building, but this undertaking is quite risky. It is better to carry out this procedure after a year. The fact is that aerated concrete must have time to dry before the onset of cold weather, which can be hampered by the plaster layer. If moisture remains inside in winter, it will freeze, which will lead to cracking of the material.

The first step is to carry out internal plaster for aerated concrete, after which you can begin finishing the external surfaces. You can even delay the time a little by completing interior work in the fall, and exterior late spring. The only exceptions may be buildings on the sea coast. In this case, the first step is to protect external walls from atmospheric influences.

Internal plastering is carried out first, and then external

Important! It is strictly forbidden to plaster a house made of aerated concrete from November to March.

Is it necessary to plaster aerated concrete blocks on the outside?

External plaster for aerated concrete is completely optional. On the contrary, many craftsmen recommend immediately ordering walls of such thickness that would be enough to ensure comfortable temperature inside the home without using plaster on the outside. An incorrectly selected composition or violation of application technology can lead to destruction of the entire structure.

Many craftsmen are against external plastering of aerated concrete walls

Some advise using polystyrene foam for insulation, but this material practically impenetrable to water vapor. This leads to condensation accumulating at the junction of the insulation and gas blocks. During the cold season, it freezes and leads to cracking of cellular concrete. If, after all, it was decided to use foamed polystyrene, then you need to lay a layer of 80 mm, while the thermal resistance thermal insulation material should not be lower than this indicator of aerated concrete.

On a note! To get rid of the need for additional procedures, it is enough to order a wall 10 cm thick in warm regions, 30 cm in cold regions, and 20 cm is suitable for baths.

How to plaster gas blocks

The question of how to plaster aerated concrete outside and inside is not an idle one. It should be immediately noted that plastering on aerated concrete cannot be carried out using cement-sand mortars.

To properly plaster aerated concrete walls outside or inside the house, you must use the following compounds:

Internal work on plastering walls made of cellular concrete

Before plastering aerated concrete, attention should be paid to thoroughly preparing the base. To do this, remove all irregularities using a plane or a special tool for processing cellular concrete blocks. This process is recommended to be performed at the stage of wall construction, but some builders simply forget about it in order to save time. Treatment with a plane does not affect the performance properties of the future coating in any way, but with its help it can be significantly reduced during finishing.

After this, you need to apply a primer. Some craftsmen dilute the primer with water, but this is fundamentally wrong. This way you can save a little on the solution, but at the same time the adhesion of the treated blocks will drop significantly, which may affect the life of the coating. To save primer, it is better to first moisten the roller with water and pass it along the wall, then repeat the procedure, but with a primer. For wet areas it is better to use impregnation deep penetration, for dry ones - simple.

For better adhesion of the plaster to the blocks, it is necessary to pre-treat the walls with a primer

Then they begin to install the plaster beacons. This is one of the simplest operations, since the blocks processed by the plane do not have large differences. Using a building level, you need to find the maximum protruding point, add the profile height to the value, and according to the obtained value, install beacons over the entire cultivated area at intervals of 130-160 cm.

Installation of plaster beacons will allow you to apply the plaster perfectly evenly

When the preparatory work is completed, they begin plastering the aerated block walls. It is carried out using the following technology:

First of all, apply using the casting method. It is called spray, and its thickness is no more than 3 mm.
After the spray has set, you can take on the base layer. It is called primer, and all indicators of the finished coating depend on the quality of application of this layer. The material is picked up on a spatula and transferred to the wall, and the entire area between the two beacons is treated in this way.
Then you need to take the rule, press it against the beacons at the bottom of the wall and lift it up, while making zigzag movements from side to side. The solution will remain on the blade of the rule; it should be thrown up the wall. The procedure must be repeated until the blade remains clean after lifting.
After the material has set, the beacons are removed from it, and the resulting grooves are filled with solution. Next, the corners are processed and hard to reach places, after which the entire wall is left to dry.
After the main layer has dried, the last one is applied - the covering. It is considered decorative, so its thickness is 1-3 mm. It is carefully leveled, and when it dries, it is rubbed with sandpaper.
You need to wait for the material to gain strength (the time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), and you can begin finishing.

The plastered surface is covered with wallpaper or painted. It is better to use materials based on acrylic, latex, cement or organic solvents as paint.

Plastering external walls made of aerated concrete

Plastering aerated concrete on the outside can be carried out using two methods: applying one layer or several. The single-layer option is somewhat inferior, so it is recommended to opt for the second method. Before plastering a concrete wall, you need to carry out the same manipulations with it as with internal wall. After this, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh.

External plaster of aerated concrete walls is made using reinforcing mesh

For these purposes they use hardware with a wire with a diameter of 1 mm and a side of 16 mm or a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 cm. This product is cut into fragments of such an area that it is convenient to work with them. After this, apply to the surface plaster mortar a layer of no more than 5 mm, while it is fresh, press the mesh onto it and recess it.

Then you need to pause and wait for the solution to dry. This is easy to check: you need to splash a little water on the coating; if the liquid is quickly absorbed, you can continue working.

In turn, with an interval of 3-4 days, two more layers of material of 10 mm each are applied. After drying, the plastered surface is rubbed down in the same way as internal ones.

The last stage of wall finishing is grouting the plaster.

On a note! Before plastering concrete walls, it is important to immediately decide on the type of finishing. Under different types paints require different types of plaster.

Blocks made of cellular concrete rarely require any finishing other than decorative, but if such a need arises, then, first of all, you need to choose the right material for plastering aerated concrete, and also follow the above rules and technologies.

Aerated concrete blocks have become a trend in individual housing developments. Increasingly, they are also used in multi-story construction, when they are used to lay out internal as well as external walls in frame-block buildings.

Attention: this material discusses aerated concrete. Another material with a similar name is used in construction - gas silicate concrete (gas silicate). This is a completely different material both in components and characteristics. It contains very little cement, only 14%. Therefore, all recommendations for aerated concrete blocks are unacceptable for it - there is practically no adhesion to cement-sand mixtures.

Aerated block is a compact and lightweight building material. Its masonry when constructing walls does not require special skills, which allows people without special construction education to build warm and inexpensive housing with their own hands. At the same time, this material is very “capricious” in matters of finishing.

Features of aerated concrete in terms of plastering

The peculiarities of aerated concrete lie in its production technology. This is the only building material that has small channels through it, which create two serious problems for walls:

easily blown by moderate winds;
have high vapor permeability.

The first problem can be solved by finishing the walls both indoors and outdoors, and therefore the question “is it necessary to plaster walls made of aerated concrete blocks” disappears by itself. High vapor permeability can only be achieved with the proper use of finishing technologies.

There are even minor mistakes due to ignorance of the nuances finishing works may have fatal consequences. For example, the order in which walls are plastered inside and outside a building directly determines its durability, which will be discussed below.

When preparing to plaster the surface of walls made of aerated concrete blocks, the following points must be taken into account:

Even the densest aerated concrete under concentrated impacts, for example, with a hammer on a chisel, breaks off and cracks. Therefore, the preparation of such walls for plastering differs significantly from the same work in relation to brickwork.
The presence of open pores in aerated concrete blocks does not allow the use of putty for finishing walls - it thin layer It simply won’t stay on them, although the quality of the surface allows this method to correct minor errors in their installation. Therefore, it is necessary to plaster with a layer of at least 5 mm.
The low adhesive properties of porous structures, which include aerated concrete, require the mandatory use of either expensive primers or fiberglass reinforcing mesh (other materials dissolve in the alkaline environment of hardened plaster).
The high vapor permeability of the material dictates the following order of work on plastering walls: first, the plastering is carried out indoors, and then, after the inner layer of the mortar has dried, outside. If the order is reversed or work is carried out simultaneously on both sides, then moisture will be trapped inside the wall, which will destroy it during frosts.

How to plaster aerated concrete

How to plaster aerated concrete walls inside a house? There is no clear answer to this question. If you buy ready-made plaster mixtures, then there are no problems other than the financial component. Dry plaster on various bases is always available for sale:

lime and cement - the most popular mixture for plastering aerated concrete walls;
liquid glass (silicate mixture) - the most cheap look dry mortar, but incompatible with decorative plaster based on acrylic, silicone, latex;
silicone - the highest quality plaster mixture with, naturally, the highest price;
cement and mineral chips that replace sand.

For reference: there are also acrylic mixtures on sale, but they are best used for decorative plaster.

Buying ready-made plaster will seriously affect family budget, so options need to be considered self-cooking solution. So which plaster is better for plastering aerated concrete walls? There are two blocks of answers here, depending on the type of prepared adhesion between the wall and the plaster.

The plaster mortar is applied directly to the wall, pre-treated with a penetrating primer with the slots cut with a chainsaw (the slots are necessary for better adhesion of the mortar to aerated concrete).
Plastering the wall is done using a plaster mesh mounted on a special glue, which has become fashionable lately.

In the first case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material:

the presence of cement and lime components;
porosity;
high vapor permeability.

This unusual combination properties near the wall, cement mortar with sand is immediately removed from the list of mixtures. It adheres very poorly to such a surface, even when applying a high-quality primer.

Here you need to use:

gypsum with light perlite sand;
gypsum with lime;
lime with cement, fine sand, aggregates and plasticizer.

In the second case, any combination of mortar components is allowed, including cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 5.

Calculation of material consumption

When starting work on applying a plaster layer, it is important not to make a mistake with the amount of material purchased. Let us immediately note that it is impossible to calculate absolutely exactly how much of something will be needed - it is impossible to take into account all the differences in height of the wall surface, as well as the presence of a vertical wall. But, with a slight error in any direction, calculations can be made.

You should start by determining the area that needs to be plastered. To do this, multiply the length of each wall by its height and add the results together. From the resulting number, subtract the area of doors and windows. We multiply the final result by the average thickness of the plaster, resulting in the amount of mortar in m3.

For reference: the last multiplier is the average result of adding the thickest and smallest layers of plaster, which is determined during the installation of the beacons.

Tools required for work

To work you will need the following tools and accessories:

stepladder (you can prepare a special portable platform - sawhorses);
Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver;
metal profiles for lighthouses;
roulette;
plumb line;
rule with a level 2.0-2.5 m long;
metal scissors (grinder);
hammer:
paint brush (spray gun or roller);
primer tray;

Attention: experienced professionals use two rules. A short one, no more than 1.5 m, is more convenient for leveling the applied plaster, a long one is for checking the quality of the work performed.

construction (bubble) level;
steel brush or scraper (another name for cutting);
container for preparing plaster;
hacksaw or chainsaw;
falcon;
trowel, also has other names - trowel, plaster spatula;
grater;
grater;
fry;
ironer;
set of spatulas.

Attention: details about the purpose of each tool and their photos can be found in the material “”.

Surface preparation

Plastering aerated concrete walls indoors should begin with preparing the surface. From quality preparatory work The durability of the plaster largely depends. Many years of experience show that work should be performed in a clear sequence:

all general construction and installation work for floor installation, installation of door and window units, etc.;
the walls are cleared of old plaster, paint, wallpaper and whitewash;
wall blocks are repaired (if necessary);
various types of contaminants are removed.

Attention: the technology for performing the above work is described in detail in the material “Preparation of surfaces for plastering”.

The next, most important stage of work when plastering aerated concrete is ensuring adhesion (adhesion) of the plaster to the wall. There are two options: apply the solution to a primed wall or to a plaster mesh. The second option is gaining popularity, so we will consider it in more detail.

To work, you need to buy a deep penetration primer for aerated concrete (Ceresit), tile adhesive (for ceramic products - Knauf, Yunis 2000, etc.) and fiberglass plaster mesh.

The step-by-step instructions are not very complicated.

Two layers of penetrating primer are applied to the wall. For the first layer, in order to saturate the aerated concrete with moisture, the soil is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. For the second layer, its consumption should be in the range of 150-180 g/m2. To apply the solution you can use everything known methods: roller, brush, garden sprayer, compressor, etc. The second layer is applied only after the first layer has completely dried.

The diluted glue is applied to the dried primer with a trowel. The work is carried out from the bottom up, with a width slightly larger than a roll of reinforcing mesh. The thickness of the layer after leveling should be within 5 mm.

Attention: dilute tile adhesive and work with it in strict accordance with the instructions printed on the package.

A mesh cut to length, flush with the ceiling, is sunk into the glue, and then the same is done below, near the floor. Using a spatula with teeth 5-6 mm long, the plaster mesh is pressed as deep as possible into the glue. Work is carried out from top to bottom. At first, the movements of the spatula can be chaotic, but in the final stage they can be strictly horizontal. This is necessary to form horizontal ordered strips about 5 mm high from the glue squeezed out through the mesh, which will serve as an ideal connecting element between the wall and the plaster solution.

Missing the glue surface is not allowed. Work is carried out one by one on each mesh sheet. Each subsequent mesh should overlap the previous one by 10 cm. For ease of joining, several vertical stripes are drawn along the edge of the glue-treated strip with a spatula (later, during the work, they should be converted into horizontal stripes).

How to plaster aerated concrete walls inside a house when reinforcing a wall plaster mesh And tile adhesive? This combination of reinforcing mesh with glue allows the use of any type of plaster currently used in construction.

When can plastering begin after masonry?

When building a house from aerated concrete, you should not rush to finish the walls both inside and outside the building. Even when placed on glue, the blocks will still shrink - this is their property. There is no need to explain what will happen to the plaster on the wall that has shrunk - continuous cracks and complete replacement plaster layer.

Experts say that after the construction of the wall you need to wait 7 months, and only then start plastering work. However, we cannot agree with this recommendation. Simply erecting walls does not lead to their shrinkage - there is no pressure on the blocks. Only after the roof is erected does the full shrinkage process begin. Therefore, the countdown should be carried out from the moment the roofing work is completed.

Plastering technology

How to plaster aerated concrete walls indoors? The technology for plastering aerated concrete walls indoors is the same as for other types of walls.

For reference: in the overwhelming majority, beacons are not installed for walls made of aerated concrete. This is due to the flat surface of the wall after laying the blocks - the strict geometry of the material and the thin connecting seam make it easy to maintain the vertical. Beacon guides are used only when there is a loss of verticality, which occurs as a result of settlement of the foundation. The process of installing them on the wall is outlined in the work “”.

The solution is mixed in small portions.
Before work, the plaster should “rest” for a few minutes.
When applied to a bare wall, plastering work is carried out in three layers, on a mesh with glue - in two (primer and covering).
The spray solution is prepared in a 1:2 ratio to the consistency of sour cream.
Applying plaster begins from the lower left corner. They lead from bottom to top, from left to right. The thickness of the spray is 4-5 mm. Apply with a trowel with a sharp stroke small quantity mortar on the wall.

The soil is placed with a thicker solution (approximately like bread dough) and a different ratio of cement and sand - 1:5. Apply after the spray has completely dried. The thickness of the soil should not exceed 2.0 cm. It is applied to the wall with a trowel. Then the rule is leveled. The final treatment of the soil is carried out with a trowel. They can work left and right, up and down. If the soil layer thickness exceeds 2 cm, then correct solution- apply twice.

Treating walls with plaster: advantages and disadvantages compared to other types of finishing work
Construction and repair technologies are changing, new materials are appearing, but plaster remains a popular method of wall finishing that has stood the test of time. Reliability, thoroughness and durability of the result obtained are strong arguments in favor of plastering.

Drywall, which gained popularity due to its ease of installation and became an excellent option for perfectly leveling walls, could not completely displace its “fundamental” competitor. Although communications are conveniently hidden under sheets of plasterboard and a thermal insulation layer can be placed - these are undoubted advantages, but they do not withstand loads, reduce the area of the room and require finishing - these are disadvantages.

The process of plastering aerated concrete inside a house, like any other room, is labor-intensive, it takes more money and time, you have to go through a rather “dirty” period, but as a result, the walls acquire a high-quality coating that can last for several decades. Of course, it also requires decorative finishing, but unlike a plasterboard base, its strength will withstand almost any load - shelves and canopies can be mounted on these walls and any design and renovation experiments can be implemented.

Plaster can be applied to any surface, except very uneven walls, which require a thick layer to level concrete mixture. In this case, it is easier and more profitable to use plasterboard finishing.

Selection of material for plastering aerated concrete walls

Aerated concrete (gas silicate blocks) is a relatively new building material, but it has gained incredible popularity and the title of “revolutionary” on the market. Thanks to its cellular structure, it provides good thermal insulation combined with excellent air and moisture conductivity.
Its excellent air and vapor conductivity characteristics place special demands on the technology, quality of finishing and materials used.

Firstly, the finishing material should not drown out these valuable qualities, completely blocking the pores and depriving the house of the ability to “breathe”.

Secondly, porous aerated concrete, while providing good air exchange, can quickly “dry out” a plastered wall and cause cracks to appear on it.

Therefore, the choice of material for plastering aerated concrete surfaces is approached with special care. It is necessary to use specially formulated plaster mixtures marked “For aerated concrete”. They have added components that bring the properties of the plaster as close as possible to the properties of cellular concrete and improve its adhesion, adhesive and vapor-permeable characteristics.
In addition, the solution prepared from these mixtures acquires elasticity and durability and can be applied to the walls in a thin layer.

Sequence of work

For the same reasons, the sequence of work has its own specifics: first, the interior walls are plastered, they wait until they are completely dry, and only then can the exterior finishing work begin. The moisture must completely escape from the inside to the outside, and not vice versa.

The plastering process consists of three stages:

preparation of the base;
applying the base layer;
applying the finishing coat.

Preparing the base. Gas silicate walls They have a smooth, uniform surface with very thin seams, since glue, rather than concrete, is used for laying. A smooth surface necessarily requires the application of a primer layer, which strengthens the adhesion of the plaster and the wall and reduces the moisture-absorbing properties of aerated concrete so that drying occurs evenly.

Applying the base layer. After the primer has dried, the dry mixture is diluted with water in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and a base reinforcing layer of plaster is applied to the wall using a notched comb trowel. It is reinforced with alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh: it is simply pressed with a trowel into the upper third of the layer and smoothed. The mesh sheets are embedded in the plaster with a one-on-one overlap of 8-10 mm. They prevent the occurrence of deformations, shrinkage and cracks.

A sufficient thickness of the base layer is about 4 mm - special additives in the mixture for aerated concrete work make it possible to obtain a durable coating with a minimum thickness. The plaster takes a long time to dry - you have to put up with this. As a rule, 1 mm is given 1 day to dry, i.e. The entire layer will dry for about 4 days.

Applying the finishing coat. It is recommended to prime the base reinforcing layer before applying the topcoat. The decorative layer is applied with a metal float. Its thickness depends on the size of the fractions in the mixture - solid particles that give the plaster a relief pattern. For example, if the size of the fractions is 2 mm, then the thickness of the decorative layer should not be more than 2 mm.

Having leveled the plaster and waited a little until it “sets”, they “texture” it with a plastic trowel - giving it relief. Some topcoats do not require further painting because... already contain color pigments.

It would be useful to know that finishing work in a house made of gas sand-lime brick It is not recommended to start immediately after erecting the frame. The humidity of a “fresh” aerated concrete block from the factory is high - about 30%, it is advisable to wait about six months for it to dry to 15%. Aerated concrete walls do not require special insulation, so the house can be used at first without finishing.

Finishing begins with plastering the aerated concrete inside the house, i.e. from the internal walls, and finish with the external ones, and in no case vice versa. Drying should take place through the outer wall.

Work is carried out in compliance with temperature regime within the range from +8 to +30 C. Optimally – at 15-20 C.

If you follow the recommendations, the right technology works and selection of appropriate materials, plastered aerated concrete walls will last for decades, providing comfortable air exchange, absence of dampness and cracks on the surface.

Before plastering aerated concrete inside the house, let's understand the properties of this material for building walls. Aerated concrete blocks have a number of advantages, low specific gravity (2 times lighter than sand-lime brick). But their plastering is done according to the rules.

Advantages of aerated concrete blocks

The construction of houses using aerated concrete blocks is carried out quickly, since due to the light weight of the material, the labor intensity of wall installation is reduced. Aerated concrete has a low thermal conductivity, so the thermal resistance coefficient of the material is 2-3 times less than that of ceramic brick.

The cellular structure of aerated concrete and wood creates the same microclimate in the house. An increase in the density of aerated concrete blocks during their production causes a deterioration in the heat-saving properties of the material. This requires appropriate wall finishing. The porous structure of this material provides excellent sound insulation in rooms. The walls “breathe” and allow water vapor and carbon dioxide to pass through.

Aerated concrete - good thermal insulation, since it has an open porous structure and great strength, and also it is a fireproof material. Adhesive compounds are used for laying blocks, this helps to maintain precise geometric dimensions the buildings. The process of building walls itself does not require professionalism.

Another advantage of blocks is reduced sensitivity to the negative influences of the external environment. The disadvantage of aerated concrete is considered to be low flexural strength. If we take into account this characteristic of the material, then the construction of a house from it is carried out on the basis of a number of measures.

These include:

arrangement of a monolithic type foundation;
reinforcement of floors, masonry, rafter structures.

Rules for finishing aerated concrete surfaces

Before finishing walls made of aerated concrete, take into account that they are very different from brick in their properties. Cellular lightweight concrete always played the role of insulation. After the insulation of aerated concrete houses from the outside began to be carried out using special heat insulators, the use of blocks was associated only with the construction of the building structure.

Since aluminum powder is mixed into the raw material for aerated concrete, the structure of the blocks becomes cellular, which increases their vapor permeability. This is taken into account in the process of finishing the walls of a building made of aerated concrete blocks.

Plastering is the most common method used for interior and exterior finishing vertical surfaces. Before insulating a house made of aerated concrete, you will need to plaster the surface of the walls. They begin this work from the inside of the building, after which they move on to finishing and begin insulating the facade of the house. It would be a mistake to first plaster the building on the outside and carry out work on interior decoration on cold period of the year.

Most of the water that is used for finishing work on interior walls comes out both through the walls and through ventilation ducts. Subzero temperature leads to the formation of condensation from steam particles of water inside the walls, as well as on the exterior. When water freezes, the plaster cracks and peels off. This is proof that plastering aerated concrete walls is necessary from the inside of the house, and not on the facade.

Which plaster option to choose

The layer of plaster on the wall should not interfere with its vapor permeability, so a solution of a mixture of cement and sand is not used for plastering walls. When performing work, one of the methods of interior wall finishing is used. The first of them is based on the fact that the material has special property, ensuring vapor permeability of the walls.

If, when plastering aerated concrete blocks, you will use cement-sand mortar, then due to their structure they will quickly absorb moisture. As a result, the surface of the walls will dry out and become covered with cracks. It will not be possible to correct the situation even after using a deep primer or putty.

Another reason why cement-sand mortar is not used for interior plaster premises - low vapor permeability of walls. When a brick house is already built, the quality of the plaster is no longer important. If aerated concrete rather than brick was used during the construction process, then improper plastering of the walls will cause a deterioration in the microclimate inside the building.

IN construction stores or special mixtures are sold on the market, with the help of which high-quality plastering of aerated concrete blocks is performed. Finishing is carried out according to the principle of maximum vapor barrier of blocks. The microclimate conditions inside a house made of aerated concrete will not differ from reinforced concrete buildings.

The outer layer of plaster will be durable. This is explained by the fact that after the time it takes for the humidity balance to be established in the aerated concrete wall, there is a reduction in the flow of steam into the aerated concrete wall. external environment. As a result, the plaster will not peel off from the surface of the facade.

Materials for the vapor-permeable layer of wall cladding

The use of plaster compositions based on gypsum and gypsum putty increases the vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls. This figure should be high, since customers and builders choose cellular concrete. Decoration Materials based on gypsum, they are produced containing slaked lime and light perlite sand. After plastering with these compounds, there is no need to prime the surface of the walls. The finished plaster can easily conduct water vapor.

Plastering walls inside the house using ready-made mixtures with fillers creates a high-quality cladding layer. It includes the following types of fillers:

limestone;
dolomite;
marble.

It is necessary to choose the right fillers and pay attention to the size of their component parts. All fractions must be combined in a single lining solution. Manufacturers producing such mixtures have achieved ease of use. The compositions are easy to rub and have a maximum degree of whiteness.

Polymer additives with a high coefficient of vapor permeability provide a better coating than external plaster. Aerated concrete has a porous structure, so there is no point in applying putty immediately, otherwise a lot of primer will be required. It will no longer be possible to save on it, since this will lead to the putty starting to crack and fall off.

Making a vapor barrier with your own hands

Polyethylene is often used for vapor barrier when finishing the interior surface of a room. This is the simplest method. But often after work is completed, there is an accumulation of water particles and swelling of the plaster.

When constructing and finishing walls made of aerated concrete blocks, good vapor barrier is required. Here they use plaster made of sand and cement without special additives - dolomite flour or lime. This type of interior plaster can significantly reduce the conductivity of water particles. In this case, the plaster will peel off, but the choice of this technology remains with the developer.

Before plastering the surfaces, the blocks are primed using a special solution. It is applied 3-4 times. Remember that the use of modern compounds for finishing blocks leads to a decrease in the level of vapor barrier by 25 times. High-quality adhesives, which are widely used in construction, can eliminate the transmission of water particles. There is no point in using putty.

What tools will you need?

It is necessary to carry out finishing work on aerated concrete walls with the same tools that are used for conventional plastering. To prepare the solution, use a suitable plastic container in which it is convenient to dilute the plaster. You will need a construction mixer with a mixing attachment.

After adding water, the dry mixture is brought to homogeneity and the required thickness. The proportions of the components of the composition are indicated in the instructions for the mixtures. The plaster is applied to the aerated concrete using a trowel using the throwing method. You can use a plasterer's ladle. In some cases, a trowel is used.

The plastered surface is rubbed with a float. To remove excess mixture from a wall that has large area, use a grater. Level the wall using beacons. The plaster is pulled together between the guides using a rule.

Vapor-permeable finishing is also performed using plasterboard panels. Be sure to follow the process technology:

the inner finishing layer should not consist of vapor-permeable compounds;
the outer finishing layer should not be made of vapor-tight materials.

After completing the finishing work, the quality is checked using a strip, the length of which corresponds to the height of the ceilings. It is applied to the wall surface in different places horizontally and vertically. This way all inaccuracies are revealed. A deviation in the range of 6-7 mm is considered acceptable.

Technology of applying plaster to aerated concrete

To finish the interior of walls made of aerated concrete, use different ways. The simplest of them is applying a vapor-permeable finish, that is, plaster. Before using it, a series of preliminary work. The technology itself for finishing walls made of aerated concrete indoors is reminiscent of plastering walls.

Before starting work, the blocks are cleaned of dirt and also leveled. After this, proceed to applying a layer of primer. It is necessary to take into account that materials that absorb moisture will then be used. The drying time of the primer depends on its type. Usually it does not exceed 3 hours. When the applied composition has dried, proceed to wall cladding.

The choice of gypsum mixture for plaster is carried out taking into account the purpose of the room. If this is a living room, plaster, which is intended for cellular concrete, is used to cover the walls. The gypsum composition for plastering is fixed to the wall mechanically.

Gypsum plaster is used only for finishing dry rooms. Use it in an environment with high humidity not recommended, as well as on highly vibrating surfaces. Gypsum plaster is used finishing premises, after which aerated concrete blocks may not be subjected to putty.

If the aerated concrete surface of the walls is constantly in contact with moisture (in the bathroom), then it is treated with special drugs, which resist exposure to wet environments. 1 hour after application, the composition is leveled on the wall and the surface is completely dry and smooth.

There are several ways to plaster aerated concrete walls. If you understand the properties of this material, you will decide on the choice of mixtures and get good result you can do it yourself.

Aerated concrete has recently been used to build houses. Lightweight material, warm and vapor permeable. But there are also several shortcomings, to remove which the base must be covered with a finish. The fastest and reliable way- this is plastering.

But since the gas block is whimsical, not all mixtures are suitable for these purposes. This means you need to carefully choose the best way to plaster walls made of aerated concrete in order to get the desired result.

The material is created from natural ingredients. When mixing the components, it occurs chemical reaction, as a result of which a large number of gas bubbles are formed. After the mass hardens, voids remain, and they are the main cause of all positive and negative qualities aerated concrete.

Thanks to this structure, the following features of the material are distinguished:

high vapor permeability - moisture that is released during human activity does not accumulate in the premises, but goes beyond the boundaries of the house;
low coefficient of thermal conductivity - walls made of aerated concrete retain heat perfectly in winter, and summer time- coolness. But when choosing a material for construction, you should pay attention to its density. The higher the indicator, the more heat will evaporate;
soundproofing properties - thanks to the same voids filled with air, aerated concrete does not transmit sounds well in any direction. Therefore, noise on the street will not disturb the residents of the house;
hygroscopicity is the biggest drawback. The material quickly absorbs moisture from environment and it takes a long time to dry completely. In the hot period of the year, moisture is not harmful to gas concrete, but when the temperature drops to negative levels, the water will freeze in the pores and destroy them;

This material should not be used to build walls in rooms with high humidity, for example, in the kitchen or bathroom.

Since aerated concrete is capable of absorbing moisture, it is simply necessary to protect it from the outside from harmful influences. The most common choice is plaster. Such finishing can both protect the building from all kinds of influences and embellish the facade, especially if a modern textured composition is chosen.

Choosing a method, how, with what mixture and what is the best way to finish?

Aerated concrete is a very demanding material, so the technology for applying plaster to aerated concrete walls has its own nuances and subtleties. It is better not to do such work yourself, but to use the services of professionals. Although anyone who has encountered this process can handle it themselves.

In order for the process to be as productive as possible and bring the result that the home owner wants to see, it is necessary to decide on:

Plaster application method.
A composition that is most suitable for aerated concrete.
Plastering technology.

Each of these points is very important and it is simply impossible to treat them irresponsibly. Otherwise, all pipes will be in vain.

Plastering the outside of the house, and then inside

As mentioned above, aerated concrete is hygroscopic and, according to all the rules, the first step should be to protect its facade, and then proceed to interior decoration. But professionals know for sure that this is not worth doing. Let's find out why.

For interior works plaster is also used. In this case, moisture will be absorbed from the solution into the building material. When the walls are already covered with plaster on the outside, evaporation takes much longer. Therefore, the applied inner layer may become covered with small cracks or even fall off.

In some cases, moisture can condense at the junction of the layer external plaster and walls. The consequence of this will be “shooting” of the layer - this is what professionals call flaking. So that the building can easily move winter period, the façade is covered with a water-repellent agent, which will repel precipitation from the walls.

Attention! If the house is built near the sea, river or lake, then this method will be preferable. Wind with an abundance of moisture will quickly destroy the constructed foundation, so the façade should be protected first.

Plastering inside the house and then outside

This finishing method is the most common. The first step is to plaster the walls inside the house. Then the moisture from the solution, which has been absorbed into the base, can freely come out without being trapped in the thickness of the wall.

It is important not only to start with the rooms, but also to wait for the treated surfaces to dry completely. If this is not done, there is a high probability of cracks or peeling areas.

Simultaneous

But it’s better not to use this method at all. The reasons are as follows:

moisture is absorbed both from the facade and from the interior;
there are no ways to remove moisture from aerated concrete;
V winter time water will freeze in the voids building material which will lead to slow destruction.

Someone will say that they will use plaster with high vapor permeability. This means that moisture will still come out.

And this statement will be correct, but the drying time of both layers will increase several times. Then the whole finishing process will also be delayed. In addition, here there is a high probability of a web of cracks appearing.

Types of plasters

After choosing the right method, it is worth asking the question: what is the best way to plaster walls made of aerated concrete? Not all known species plasters are suitable for these purposes. Therefore, when choosing a mixture, check out the characteristics.

If something confuses you, then seek help from a consultant in the store or go shopping with a master who will do the finishing. Pay attention to the following:

Vapor permeability coefficient. It must match the indicators of aerated concrete.
The amount of water required to prepare the mixture.
Adhesive properties.
Maximum and minimum layer thickness.
Resistance to temperatures below zero is also important for the façade.

Now let's take a closer look at the different types of plasters.

Gypsum plaster

This option is more preferable for interior work. What does it matter if the room is different? high humidity, then it is better to choose another option. This is due to the fact that gypsum quickly and abundantly absorbs moisture from the environment.

In addition, the gypsum solution also requires a lot of moisture to seal, and this is not very good for the mixtures that will cover aerated concrete walls. But despite this, gypsum plasters have several positive aspects:

Cement-sand plaster

Ordinary cement-sand mortar is categorically not suitable for finishing aerated concrete walls both outside and inside the house. If other bases work perfectly with concrete, then in this version it’s the other way around:

The mixture is poorly distributed because it has low adhesion rates to cellular structures.
High water content in solution. The hygroscopic aerated block quickly absorbs moisture, and this leads to a deterioration in the quality of the applied layer. In order for the cement-sand mixture to become good even layer no disadvantages, requires uniform and slow drying. In this case it is impossible.
The frozen layer has low vapor permeability. For buildings made of aerated concrete this characteristic very important.

If you really want to use it cement mortar, then it is advisable to add lime to it. This action is insignificant, but will improve the quality of both the solution and the frozen layer. Some craftsmen mix cement-sand mortar with a special one for cellular surfaces and treat the base with this composition. But such an event will not make the mixture of the highest quality.

Facade mixtures

Range of mixtures for plastering different surfaces presented in options that are specially designed for aerated concrete and foam block foundations. Therefore, experts in their field recommend choosing this option. Manufacturers have selected components that, when mixed, result in a composition that fully meets the characteristics:

the same vapor permeability indicator;
excellent adhesion to the base;
resistance to external influences;
aesthetic appearance.

The cost of such compositions is a little higher, but the result is worth it. All components are already mixed in the required proportions, which means the work will progress much faster.

Application technology, is a mesh needed?

If you decide to do plastering yourself, be sure to familiarize yourself with the technology of applying mortar to aerated concrete walls. To do this, you will have to look for special literature or articles on the Internet. Even if the work is carried out by professionals, it will not be superfluous to monitor the process.

Preparing the base

To reduce the layer of applied mortar and reduce the likelihood of cracks, be sure to carefully prepare the base. These events include:

Removing stains, if any, on the surface of aerated concrete.
Removing excess mortar that may have remained in the seam area. To do this, choose a special grater. By the way, it is much easier to remove excess mortar during the construction stage, but many people ignore such actions.
Dust removal of the base. To remove dust, use a damp brush, rag or roller. We use the tool as if we were applying a primer.

Applying primer

This treatment is needed not only to increase adhesion, but also to protect the base from high humidity. Choose formulations with antiseptic, antifungal and hydrophobizing effects. Such soil can protect the base from fungus and mold.

This is especially important for rooms with high humidity, as well as for the facade. Apply the primer with a roller or brush in a dense layer. It is prohibited to dilute the composition with water, since such a solution no longer has all the necessary properties.

Some people wonder whether a mesh is needed when plastering aerated concrete? There is no clear answer to this question. But if we consider the advantages of its use, we highlight the following:

increasing the adhesion of the solution and the base, especially if you plan to apply a thick layer;
reducing the risk of cracks.

Advice! If the house is new and the walls are shrinking, then reinforcing mesh is a mandatory attribute.

Installation of beacons

If you plan to apply a solution with a thickness that exceeds 5–7 mm, then it is necessary. They will help make the layer more even. There will still be some disadvantages, but they will be minor. They can be easily corrected by applying a layer of putty.

Often the distance between the beacons is 60–70 cm, but it should not exceed the size of the rule that will be used to level the applied solution. The beacons are fixed with the same solution as the walls are plastered. Then the layer is very small, then you can do without beacons.

Throwing on a “fur coat”

To throw the solution, use a ladle or trowel. Fill the space between the beacons starting from the bottom of the wall. They adhere to the following plan:

Portions of the solution are placed as close to each other as possible.
After treating an area one meter high, it is necessary to level the mixture.
The rule is carried out in the direction from bottom to top, making oscillatory movements from side to side.
The tool is pressed tightly against the beacons.
If there are areas that are not filled with solution, they are filled again.
Once again you need to go through the rule.

The same plan applies to the entire surface. And wait until the layer
will dry out.

Processing the first layer

At this stage it is necessary to remove the beacons. Although some are inclined to believe that it is not necessary to remove beacons, since this will require additional time. After removing the beacon, there will be a recess that needs to be re-filled with mortar, the surface leveled and again wait until it dries completely.

If they are left, they will become cold bridges, and as a result, frosty air will penetrate into the premises. When the layer is dry, it is moistened with water using a spray bottle. Next, remove the unevenness using a grater.

Forming corners

Such measures will not only allow you to quickly create beautiful and even corners, but also protect the area from chipping. After all, in a given place the load is always high (impacts, friction when moving furniture or other heavy objects).

To do this, use special perforated profiles with reinforcing fiberglass mesh. The devices are attached to the mortar and covered with putty. By the way, a layer of putty is laid not only on the corners, but also over the entire surface to be treated.

Finishing

Depending on the type of decorative finish, finishing is carried out in several ways:

coloring. In this case finishing layer rub with a special grater so that the surface is perfectly smooth. Then the paint will apply without problems, leaving no bald spots;
decorative plaster. In this case, without waiting for the solution to dry, they create interesting and original patterns on the facade, which will help distinguish the building from the overall picture. Decorative compositions also available in tinted colors;
use of tiles or other material for curtain façade. In this case, finishing treatment is not necessary at all, since the walls made of aerated concrete will be covered with decorative material.

If you have already built a house from aerated concrete, then do not do the finishing yourself. Select a team of craftsmen who will definitely do everything right. In addition, adhere to these rules:

Plaster the house, both outside and inside, only in the warm season, when at night the temperature does not drop below +5 degrees Celsius.
For the winter, cover the outside walls with a water-repellent agent, and cover the door and window openings with film if the equipment has not yet been installed.
To ensure that the plaster does not crack, use a reinforcing mesh and give the aerated concrete masonry time to settle.