Electrification of residential premises is not an easy task. But if you have some knowledge and skills, and learn certain rules, you will be able to do the electrical wiring in the house yourself.
In any case, if you do not risk contacting an electrician, the knowledge acquired on our website will allow you to monitor the work of the called technician, point out shortcomings and avoid shortcomings. As a result, this will save you time and help you avoid problems and associated waste.
DIY electrical wiring - basic rules
Before starting work, read the Electrical Installation Rules (ELD), which outline the basics of working with the equipment. Electrical wiring in the house, carried out independently, requires compliance following conditions:
- free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required;
- they are mounted at a level of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
- opening doors should not block access;
- the cable is brought in from above;
- The installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes Power supply is provided from below;
- The number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 square meters. This rule does not apply to the kitchen; sockets are installed here according to the number of household appliances. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to reduce the voltage);
- the cable is laid with strict adherence to vertical and horizontal (without bends or diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation);
- horizontal ones are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. Distance to gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
- the wiring must not come into contact with building structures made of metal;
- Special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum ones.
Wiring diagrams
All electrical work in the house begins with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and laying of cables; it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances.
To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups.
The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection diagram, distributes the load and saves materials.
The electrical wiring diagram of a country house differs from that of an apartment in the method of cable installation: in a multi-storey house it starts from the floor panel. Electricity in a private home requires connection from an overhead line or from an external distributor.
Determination of current strength
An important point when planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross-section are needed.
Current strength=Total power of household appliances (W)/Network voltage (V).
For example: eight 60 W lamps, 1600 W electric kettle, 350 W refrigerator, 1200 W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V. Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A.
Typical home consumption does not exceed 25 Amps.
Determining cable size
An equally important task is to determine the cross-section of the cables that will be used for electrical distribution. The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. A mismatch between the cross-section and the load will result in overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and fire.
Define right size cable can be found using the table.
For example, if the estimated current is 16.5A, closed wiring using copper wires is planned, then a cable of at least 2 kV is required. mm. For 25 Amperes - 4 mm 2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.
Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact frequent fluctuations in current strength are observed, a certain cross-section reserve is needed. To determine the cable length, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.
A lighting panel is installed near the entrance to the apartment, into which residual current devices are installed and wires are connected. Typically, for a network of switches and lighting, it is assumed to install a 16 A RCD, 20 A sockets. An electric stove requires a more powerful installation - 32 A and is connected separately.
Electrical wiring installation
After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and follow safety precautions.
The first stage is marking. Use a marker to mark the cable laying line. Next, we mark the location of lamps, sockets and SCHO (disconnection panel).
At the second stage, we tap the walls, if hidden wiring is required, or install it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a hammer drill using a crown attachment. Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond disks) or a hammer drill, make grooves for the cable about 20 mm deep, the width of which should comfortably accommodate the wires.
On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making input/output holes and tighten it there.
Next, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the corner of the room to insert the cable through the wall. Now you can proceed directly to installation.
First, you need to install a circuit breaker into which the RCD is connected. A ready-to-connect electrical system has zero terminals on top, grounding terminals on the bottom, and circuit breakers between them.
Then the cable is inserted inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to install it on the distribution board. To connect the input cable to the ShchO, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow color with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer). The machines are connected from above in series with a jumper made of white wire or a special factory-made copper busbar. Now you can install the wiring.
Open mounting option
Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence:
- According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. We fasten with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters.
- We install distribution boxes, sockets and switches. Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and secure.
- We lay the cable from the sockets to the ShchO, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires.
- We run a VVG - 3*1.5 cable from the lamps and switches to the distribution box.
Wire cores in junction boxes are connected by color using clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals.
VVG cable 3*2.5 V ShchO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wire with a green stripe) is at the bottom. Now ready-made diagram“calls” the tester. If everything is fine, then we invite an electrician.
Hidden wiring
IN hidden version the wiring installation differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations, which are placed in previously prepared grooves, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish. Socket boxes and distribution boxes are installed in the made niches.
Upon completion of all work, the grooves are sealed with plaster; you can use gypsum putty to seal the wiring.
Electrical wiring in a private house
Installing an electrical cable in a private house will require special safety measures, especially if the house is wooden.
Wiring in such a home is carried out taking into account the following requirements:
- Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used.
- Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.
- All connections are sealed.
- Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls or ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators.
- Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes and steel boxes and must be grounded. When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing.
An additional step to increase the safety of a wooden home is the installation of an RCD ( differential relay), reacting to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.
Bottom line
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before carrying out electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.
Every master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting work, you will be able to truly appreciate the quality and know what you are paying for.
The first thing worth saying is that laying electrical wiring yourself is quite dangerous. According to statistics, more than 70% of fires in private sectors occur due to errors made during wiring installation. In case of doubt and lack basic knowledge on how to do electrical wiring in a house, it is better to trust the specialists or at least carry out the work with an experienced assistant.
The electrical wiring of the premises must initially be carefully designed and double-checked before starting installation work.
It is worth realizing that the price of a mistake when we're talking about about electricity, too high. All kinds of installation errors during further operation can lead to serious consequences.
Step-by-step action plan
In general, the entire process of electrifying a private home can be divided into the following points:
- Creating a gasket drawing with all symbols individual wiring components.
- Laying wires in or on walls.
- Installation of a switchboard, distribution boxes, as well as sockets and switches.
- Connecting the contacts of all elements.
- Thorough check of correct connections, testing, and commissioning of wiring.
By by and large, there is nothing super complicated about installing electrical wiring yourself. It is only important to choose the right wires, taking into account the load placed on them and not to forget about the protection devices.
Electrical wiring plan drawing
First of all, before you start laying wires, you should make a detailed drawing of the wiring diagram in a private house. This is necessary to understand the scope of further work and to facilitate the installation process.
When creating a drawing, it will be easier to decide what to do when laying the wire in problem areas. For example, sometimes situations arise when conductors are difficult to move to a safe distance from water supply or heating pipes, and allow even the potential for water to enter electric wires it is forbidden. 
You should never place wires diagonally in wall recesses. Perhaps this will save a certain amount of material, but it will significantly complicate the whole job. According to unspoken rules, wiring is laid only vertically or horizontally.
It is best to leave the drawn up plan with all possible further changes rather than throw it away. Because sooner or later it may be needed during repairs.
Preparatory work
After creating the drawing, for convenience, you can transfer the wire lines to the wall and begin further work. It is important to decide what type of wiring will be - closed or open.
Closed wiring type
Despite the complexity of installation, closed electrical wiring in a private home is most popular, since wires recessed into the thickness of the walls do not require any additional decoration.
The work of creating hidden wiring is very dusty. You will have to work a lot with a grinder and, but after installation, all the wires will be neatly hidden under a layer of plaster or cement mortar.
Making open wiring is much easier and faster. The wires are laid in special tubes and. All devices that are provided for the installation of open wiring are made of fireproof or self-extinguishing plastic.
It is worth remembering that when laying out electrical wiring in a private area with your own hands, you choose exactly open type installation It is prohibited to attempt to run wires inside wood.
Selection of wires
It is important to choose the right wires for installation. To do this, the load placed on them must be taken into account. Calculating electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands is generally simple. Most often, all energy consumers are divided into groups with approximately equal power, and the wires are selected with the same cross-section.
The wire can be purchased aluminum or copper. Despite the fact that the cost of aluminum wires is significantly lower than copper wires, such wiring is now used extremely rarely. This is due to the fact that budget analogues are much tougher and more brittle. Working with copper wires is much easier. They are easy to bend, lay in pipes and channels, without fear of breaking.
You should not try to combine aluminum and copper wires in one network, since there is a high probability of overheating the contact point. This is only permissible when partially replacing the wiring in old houses, where, as a rule, aluminum conductors were used.
To connect and distribute electricity in a private house, it is advisable to use two-core and three-core wires of the same type. They feed through the first ones lighting, and the latter serve to supply voltage to grounded sockets.
It is best to use VVG or PVG wires in a private house with a core cross section of 2.5, 4 and 6 mm 2, which are wrapped in a double insulating layer.
Ground loop
When installing electrical wiring in a private house, it is important to take care of the safety of residents. The main element that ensures safety during the operation of electrical equipment is grounding.
In addition to the outlet to the ground, the grounding loop must have a residual current device (RCD). It is located directly in the shield. The grounding itself is massive metal objects, driven into the ground.
Do not neglect grounding. In some cases, it can save a person’s life.
The wires are connected by soldering, twisting, or using special clamping blocks. Today, the latter method is the most popular, as it greatly simplifies the installation of electrical cables. Twisting is also permissible, but only when using the same type of cores.
Most reliable method connections are soldering, but at the same time, this is the most difficult method.
All switching must be in special distribution boxes. Leave single or multiple connections in open form prohibited even with additional insulation.
When it comes to connecting sockets, switches, and lighting fixtures, the most important thing is to correctly connect all the wires without tangling them. It is advisable to place the phase and neutral in the same way in all sockets. For example, phase is on the right and zero is on the left.
The most difficult stage in electrification is connecting the distribution board. An input power cable is supplied to it, from which branch wiring is distributed to all individual rooms of the building. It is important to understand that the slightest error in the electrical wiring diagram in the panel of a private house will certainly provoke a serious problem.
It is best to entrust work with the switchboard to an electrical supply specialist. It is extremely important to carefully make all the necessary connections.
security check
In order to check the correctness of all connections and make sure that the wiring is safe, it is also better to contact an experienced electrician. To put it into operation, you will need to invite electrical laboratory workers to sign a permit to connect to the general network. If employees identify violations, then after they have been eliminated, the inspection will have to be repeated.
To conclude the topic, it is worth saying that in general, installing electrical wiring in a private house is not difficult. However, it is extremely important to be aware of the danger posed by the electrification process with multiple violations and ignorance of the basics of electrical safety. It is better to carry out all work in the company of a specialist.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the house - video
Do you want to change the wiring in your apartment yourself? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don’t have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself, this article is for you.
Calculations and diagram
One linear diagram according to GOST
First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you don’t need to be an engineer, because you don’t need a complicated linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing by hand. An electrical wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly distribute the cable throughout the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.
Wiring diagram
Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.
It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are pass-through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one busy line, for example in the kitchen; it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.
Define required amount lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.
Cable selection
In order for electrical appliances to operate without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate cross-section. And if there are several consumers on the same line (for example to the kitchen) (and there will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave cable safety margin, that is, select the desired cross-section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.
In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. — For outlet lines, use copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq.mm., for all lighting 1.5 sq.mm, and for hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq.mm - and everything will be fine with you!
Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in Watts.
Simplified power formula
The cable must be three-core (phase, neutral, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because everything modern devices have an additional protective output, and the automatic protective equipment works only with the use grounding .
To replace electrical wiring, it is best to use a VVG-ng cable. You can, of course, use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft ones need to be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller grooves, and it is possible to insert the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5mm)
Uncrimped wire with sleeve
Always take only cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is the Gostov VVG ng cable. This is very important point in preparation for replacing the wiring! You can save on automation or sockets (they can always be replaced), but don’t skimp on the cable - get a good one.
Marking
Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located; the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after renovation will be 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and place a mark every 7 cm (socket box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.
For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for children's institutions, kindergartens and schools, where sockets and switches are installed at height not lower than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially in your home, you can do as you please. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.
Preparing for gating
Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as laying cables under baseboards or ducts.
Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a suspended or suspended ceiling; if these are not planned, then the ceiling needs to be chipped. And since, monolith of ceilings Ditching is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We strongly do not recommend ditching the ceiling yourself, as you need to know the technology correct gating so that the whole house doesn’t collapse someday.
In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen They find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.
Using a 70mm or 68mm concrete crown (attachment for a hammer drill), holes for the socket boxes are drilled. Using a wall chaser or grinder, grooves are cut out for laying the cable. There should be grooves in the walls strictly vertical, not horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.
If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed; the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save on corrugation; if you don’t have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then you don’t need corrugation!
Noisy work
When you start hammering walls, don’t forget about the law. Make noise with a hammer drill apartment buildings It is possible only at strictly defined times; each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan you need to get permission from the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they start beating in response. It's better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.
Grilling
Before you start dabbling, it is highly advisable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since everything socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw the monolith.
Check in advance the places where you will be ditching so as not to touch communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't figure out where it's going old wiring, call an electrician, or simply turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For ease of work, make yourself a temporary carrier (extension).
The hole for the socket boxes is drilled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, then drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown. After which, the cutting with a crown will go noticeably faster, one might say – it will go like clockwork. If it gets on the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown; in extreme cases, you can knock it off with a spatula. It’s better to use a hammer drill for help (don’t forget about neighbors and the police).
Working with a wall chaser or grinder
Grooves for laying cables go from the socket box to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the groove down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these tasks, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder, with diamond blade on stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, wear a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms.
Cabling
Laying the cable on the floor is not difficult; it is enough to hold it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when they make the screed. Usually they lay the cable along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall) so that later they know exactly where the cable goes.
It is worth noting that laying the cable under doorways better not to do it! To lay the cable along the floor, it is better to make through holes between the rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damaging the cable when installing the interior thresholds.
Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can secure the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster ( building gypsum). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use for installing socket boxes. But before you smear the grooves with it, you need to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.
If the cable is securely fastened in the groove and does not stick out anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture; this will save a lot of time.
About junction boxes
Junction boxes (or distribution boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.
Today, professional electricians will tell you that There is no need to install junction boxes in existing apartments! They can play a cruel joke on your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It’s easy to give up junction boxes - do all the switching in the socket boxes! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Typically, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out socket lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.
Electrical panel installation
Most a budget option- this is the installation of all circuit breakers on staircase in the common shield, where your old machines and counter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to route all the cables into the access panel. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.
Built-in or overhead shield is up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the overhead one is easier to install. All lines from the apartment go to the panel, and from it one thick cable goes to the entrance panel, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.
Installation of circuit breakers
Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. According to the rules, you cannot insert more than two lines into one machine; if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.
Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition- this is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short-circuit currents (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).
RCDs are best installed on the lines of high-risk areas: wet areas, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! They install one common RCD only for the purpose of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a fault in the event of a leak, + the entire apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.
Installation additional types protection, this is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection from cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm and so on.
Shield assembly
One of the most crucial moments is assembling the shield. If you are using a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be any color except blue and yellow), all others (zero N Blue colour, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their tires. When using RCDs or difavtomats (automatic and RCD “in one bottle”), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marked N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers made of wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.
For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross-section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and neutrals across the circuit breakers using a cable with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fit into the clamp, or does not hold well in it.
Final installation. Sockets and switches
Sockets and switches are installed last, after clean finishing (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good installation– this is a good contact!
Most of the outlets in your apartment are pass-through, that is, through them the cable goes in a loop to each subsequent outlet. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example IEK), they have a very poor (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumps out of the clamp, it means you did not clamp it properly or the clamp was defective.
Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are produced by LeGrande and Schneider.
To ensure that the frames lie flat and tight, install a group of sockets or switches level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws on two opposite sides, close to the wall. Then tighten the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or screws!
Monitor the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long, as they may touch the wires.
At each stage of repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finishing.
To the person for comfortable life can't do without electricity. Without it, you will not be able to cook food using modern kitchen equipment, use any power tools or household appliances, or provide an acceptable level of lighting.
However, wiring an electrical network is an extremely responsible undertaking. Even the slightest inaccuracy or incorrect connection can lead to dire consequences: damage to equipment, and in the worst case, a fire.
Therefore, even at the planning stage of work on supplying electricity, it is necessary to pay close attention to the power supply diagram.
A detailed electrical wiring diagram is a drawing that shows the main components of the in-house electricity supply system: input line, protective devices, electric meter, distribution boxes and outlets from them, switches and sockets for connecting end consumers.
For each private house, its own electrical wiring diagram is developed, if no standard design was used during construction. However, the purpose of the schema will always be the same:
- Having in hand detailed diagram, it will be possible to plan in advance the list of equipment and materials necessary to create an electrical network.
- With the circuit it is much easier to determine the required input power;
- The drawing will clearly show the nodes with maximum power consumption. This will allow them to be redesigned in advance in such a way as to ensure complete fire safety and not create unnecessary load on the electrical network components;
- In addition, the diagram will make it possible to more rationally plan the work on arranging an electrical network in the house, dividing it into a rational number of stages without the risk of forgetting to install one or another node.
This will not only eliminate the need to hastily purchase the missing items during installation work, but will also allow you to save significantly. Achieving this savings will be an opportunity to find cheaper options and not buy anything unnecessary;
Power input
Properly executed input of electricity into a private house from the power supply line - this is not only a guarantee of stable and high-quality power supply to all household appliances, but also reliable protection from fires.
In addition, its resistance to wind loads, as well as the degree of protection against damage, depends on the thoughtfulness of the input line. electric shock in rain, in snow, and also simply in damp weather.There are two main ways to introduce electricity into a house: through an overhead line or through underground communications. In the first case, it means stretching the wires between the wall of the house and the support of the power supply lines, in the second - burying the wiring in the ground.
The most rational air input may be when the distance between the wall of the house and the power supply pole does not exceed 20 m. If it turns out to be large, then personal plot you will have to install another additional support.
This is done in order to reduce the mechanical load on the input line, which, with a length of more than 20 m, can break either under its own weight or when swaying in the wind.
Settling in overhead line in the following way:
- A hole is drilled through the wall into which a piece of small-diameter metal pipe or special plastic corrugation is installed;
- An insulator on a bracket crashes into the wall of the house;
- A steel cable is stretched between the insulator on the wall and the insulator on the pole;
- The wires are pulled directly;
- The supply wires are fastened every 0.5 m to the supporting cable using metal or plastic clamps;
- The supporting wires are inserted through the wall and the inserted pipe, and then connected to the distribution panel of the house wiring.
This is achieved by tension between the insulators on the pole and on the wall. The section of wire from the insulator to the distribution panel must be laid freely, without tension. The minimum distance between the ground level and the lowest point of sag of the tensioned cable should be 3.5.
Also, this cable should not come into contact along its entire length with any buildings, or with the crowns of trees or bushes.
The entry point requires sealing. To do this, after laying the electric cable through the pipe, all remaining free space in it is filled either polyurethane foam, or tightly compacted non-flammable mineral wool.
As a wire that can be used to supply electricity to a private home, you can use a SIP cable. Its insulation is designed to withstand exposure to atmospheric precipitation And solar radiation, as well as with significant temperature fluctuations.
In addition, this cable does not require the use of an additional support cable, since it already has one. The minimum wire cross-section is 16 sq. mm. For 220 V input, a two-wire cable is used, for 380 V, a four-wire cable is used.
Underground input is generally considered more reliable than its aerial variety. Increased reliability is achieved by completely eliminating the impact on the cable of such unfavorable factors as temperature changes, precipitation and wind loads.
In addition, when entering underground, obstacles such as tree crowns or outbuildings can be ignored.
For all its stability, soil is also a fairly aggressive environment that can, over time, render the protective sheath of an electrical cable unusable. Therefore, wires laid underground need protection.
As a protective element and when arranging an underground input, either steel or plastic pipes small diameter.The pipe must be laid from the exit point into the room and to a level of 1.8-2 m already on the power supply pole.
The depth of laying the electrical cable should not be less than 0.8 m. If the entry is organized through the foundation, then in this case the hole is strengthened by installing an asbestos-cement pipe.
When arranging the electricity input, you should remember that the direct connection of electricity, as well as any work on power poles, can only be performed by employees of the supplying organization.
Electricity consumers in a country house and drawing up a diagram
To facilitate the calculation of loads on the electrical network and correctly draw up its diagram, all energy consumers in a private home can be divided into several groups:
- Lighting;
- Kitchen equipment (microwave oven, electric oven, multicooker, range hood, etc.);
- Bathroom equipment (boiler, washing machine);
- Sockets for connecting low-power electrical appliances and consumer electronics;
- Power tools in the utility room.
Calculation of the total power for which the in-house building should be designed electrical network, is done as follows:
- The rated power of all available consumers is summed up;
- The obtained result is corrected by the generally accepted coefficient of simultaneous switching on of devices, i.e. multiplied by 0.7.
In addition to the total power, it is very important to take into account the load for each consumer group. At the same time, devices whose total power would exceed 4.5 kW should not be included in one group.
If the power exceeds given value, then some of the devices will need to be separated into a separate group and planned to be connected via a separate line. You can use the following table as a guide for your calculations:
To ensure a safe and reliable power supply, it is necessary to determine the type of wires used. For private homes, it is allowed to use only copper wires, which have a long service life.
When calculating the electrical wiring diagram, for each section you must adhere to the following rules:
- The wiring must be absolutely safe during operation;
- Cable losses should be minimal;
- The cable service life cannot be less than 10 years.
Cables of NYM, VVGng, VVG, PUNP types fully comply with these requirements. All of them can be used to supply energy via hidden wiring to sockets and lighting fixtures. If you choose an open method of installing electrical wiring, you can use PUGNP or PUGVP cables.
An example of typical solutions for a country house
To avoid mistakes, even before drawing up the diagram, it is worth fully understanding how electricity should be distributed in a private home:
The circuit should begin with an input switch, which allows you to de-energize absolutely all electrical appliances, including the meter. Next should be an electric meter, the installation of which should be carried out by specialists from the service company.
This is followed by an automatic shutdown with a threshold that allows the maximum possible energy consumption.
In addition, separate protective devices will be necessary for each consumer group. Moreover, for particularly powerful devices it will be necessary to use more powerful circuit breakers (25-40 A), as well as wires with a larger cross-section.
Electrical wiring test
Having completed the installation of the electrical wiring diagram, it will need to be thoroughly tested to ensure the quality of work and correctness general scheme wiring. This will eliminate the risk of overheating of its individual sections, which can cause a fire.
The main tool here is the simplest device for testing electrical lines, and best of all - a multimeter.
The sequence of actions during the test includes the implementation of several activities.
- Check for short circuits. To do this, use the device to determine whether there is any contact between the phase, neutral and ground wires. Along the way, you can find out the quality of the insulation, for which measurements will need to be performed using a megohmmeter.
- The operation of all installed switches is monitored.
- The terminals of lamps and sockets are called.
It is quite possible that mechanical damage has occurred in some area. If it goes unnoticed, then this is fraught with either short circuit, or lack of voltage in one or another power supply line.
Making sure that the electrical network is built in the right way and is fully functional, you can start using it.
Developing a power supply diagram for a private home is a job that requires maximum attention. The slightest inaccuracy or an unattended electrical network node can lead to either the inoperability of the network or the impossibility of its safe operation.
However, with a full understanding of the tasks at hand and knowledge basic concepts electrical engineering, you can implement almost any electrical network diagram.
Watch a video about an already installed circuit in a private house and gain additional knowledge about various little things
Electricity is a serious and responsible matter. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Correct wiring Electrical wiring in a private home is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to proven specialists.
Action plan
Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing works. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Determination of input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
- Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
- Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
- Input of electrics from the pole into the house. Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install it in in the right place automatic input and counter.
- Install the panel, bring electricity into the house.
- Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets and switches.
- Ground loop design and its connection.
- Testing the system and obtaining a certificate.
- Electrical connection and operation.
This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with receiving technical specifications electrical connections and project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.
How many phases
A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to energy consumption standards for a private house, the maximum consumption per house for a single-phase network can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.
Three-phase input is needed only when you need to connect powerful equipment operating from a 380 V network So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380V network are much stricter: higher voltage, greater chance of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think of heating it with electricity, you are better off using 220 V.
Making a plan and receiving a project
Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house, and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.
All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.
For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal location of the switching points is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.
The result of designing electrical wiring in a private house. You should also get a similar diagram. Determination of total power
Having decided approximately what equipment will be installed in your home, add up its power. The average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there are, take into account starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the reserve to the found amount. The result will be the required power.
You indicate it in papers submitted to obtain permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the stated power, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private home.
Average power values of devices for calculating the total load on the electrical wiring of a private house with your own hands Breakdown of consumers into groups
All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch runs electrics to lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.
Then the sockets are divided into groups. How much you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.
As a result, you may have three to seven lines running into the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.
Designing electrical wiring in a private house: counting the number of groups and planning what to connect where There are usually two to four lines going into the rooms: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.
If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.
The wiring plan can be quite small if the house is small Based on the number of groups received, the number of machines on the distribution panel in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.).
Selected by the number of groups distribution board and the number of machines in it: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.
Where to put the shield
The installation location of the shield is not regulated by regulations. There are only restrictions regarding the distance from pipelines; it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.
There are no restrictions on premises. Many people install a panel in the boiler room: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.
Selection of cables and components
Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel.
The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.
Typical scheme electrical wiring of a private house: there can be many different groups If the design load is less than 15 kW, the input circuit breaker is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.
Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.
Cable selection
For electrical wiring in a private home, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least twice as good, therefore the laying requirements are not so stringent, and they are safer to use. All internal wiring in a private home must be made with protective grounding. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.
IN electrical cables the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is rigid, more likely to break, and more difficult to work with. At self-wiring wiring in a private home and lack of experience, this can become a problem. Moreover, in wooden houses It cannot be used internally at all.
Determination of core cross-section
Once you have decided on the material, you can select the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.
Calculation of electrical wiring - the selection of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or power of all consumers connected to one circuit breaker. This is where your home electrification plan, where you have outlined consumer groups, will come in handy once again. You calculate the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross-section of the cores according to the table.
How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then for the internal wiring will do its left part, the corresponding column. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate).
In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. Follow this line to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.
To avoid confusion when counting and laying, mark cores of the same diameter on the plan a certain color(write it down so you don’t forget what color you used). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, and a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.
Shell type selection
There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrical wiring in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double (VVG) cable insulation. In houses of less flammable materials, any insulation can be used.
The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging or other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, bathhouse, etc.).
Selection of sockets and switches
For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers they are standard. You need to know that they exist:
- External - when the body sticks out from the wall. They are easier to install: a backing is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it on top. But few people use such models now, even at their dachas. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
- Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, and an installation box is installed and walled up in it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.
It is internal electrical sockets and switches are the most commonly used today. They are decorated in different style, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are installed in white.
DIY wiring
Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in specially made grooves in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing them with the surface of the rest of the wall.
If the erected walls will then be covered sheet materials- plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then grooves are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The shell with laid cables is attached with clamps to the structural elements.
How should internal wiring be laid? In a private home, when installing it yourself, you must follow all the rules When installing, you need to remember that the internal electrical wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:
- laying wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
- all connections must be made in installation junction boxes;
- horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from which the cable runs down to the socket or switch.
A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during repairs or wiring upgrades. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole or hammer a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.
Wire connection methods
A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:
- Twisting. Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into contact, can combine in this way. chemical reaction. It is strictly forbidden to twist copper and aluminum. In other cases, the length of bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. The two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are laid one next to the other. The connection is wrapped on top with electrical tape and/or packed with heat-shrink tubing. If you want the contact to be 100% and losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.
- Connection via terminal box with screw terminals. The housing is made of heat-resistant plastic and contains metal terminals that are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket and secured with a screw or a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.
- Connecting blocks with springs. In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket and clamped by a spring. Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.
- Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your private security and the safety of your private property. After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking The insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate. After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.
