Led interior door how to fix it. Adjusting interior doors with your own hands. How to replace door hinges. Photo instructions

After moving to new apartment or carrying out repairs in your own home, a person will sooner or later be faced with the question of how to level. The quality of installation of interior or front door. If there is no door leaf in the opening, smooth slopes are needed to create a beautiful visual effect. Finishing work can be carried out independently, having certain information.

It is necessary to prepare for finishing work. Before you level the doorway with your own hands, you need to carry out. You need to remove the wallpaper, remove the layer old plaster, if it is in unusable condition (cracks, holes, scratches). Dust must be removed from the surface of the walls. In order for the new layer of plaster to stick better, it is necessary to open all the seams. To do this you will need a hammer drill with a spatula.

Measuring linear dimensions

After preparatory work, you need to measure the walls by level and using a metal square. These measuring instruments will help determine how different the walls are from each other. If the difference is large, you will need to install beacons or make metal structure to create a box from plasterboard.

Necessary materials and tools for work

Before starting any finishing works it is necessary to prepare the tools in advance and Construction Materials. List of tools:

Metal measuring angle.
Construction level, preferably large and small.
Plastic or metal container for mixing plaster.
Perforator for sewing seams.
Two spatulas - large and small.
A grater for smoothing out unevenness.
Perforated corners.
If there are seams - serpyanka.
Stationery knife.
Scissors.
A screwdriver if you are working with drywall.
The attachment for the hammer drill is a mixer for mixing plaster.

This is an approximate set of tools. The list may change depending on the situation. For example, when working not in a panel house, but in a wooden house, for finishing work you may need Sander, manual a circular saw, sandpaper, hand saw on wood.

If we talk about materials, the list will change depending on what a person is going to use to level. For example, when using drywall, you will need a certain number of sheets of this material, corners to create a frame, plaster for surface treatment and putty of joints. When working in a wooden house, you will need bars, lining or edged boards.

Doorway alignment methods

Both in apartments and in private houses, leveling the doorway can be done in several ways using different materials and technology. The list of materials and tools will depend on the chosen method.

Using drywall

If a person wants to use drywall to level a doorway, then he will need the following tools:

Metal profiles.
Roulette and level.
Drywall (meterage must be measured in advance so as not to buy excess material).
Electric drill.
Metal scissors.
Glue (when fixing directly to the wall).
Insulation (optional).

After preparing all the tools and materials, you can begin work.

Drywall installation technology

First of all, you need to check the walls for level. If there are no large differences, you can mix glue and attach sheets of drywall to the wall without additional elements. In this case, it is necessary to set each sheet according to its level.

If there are large differences in level on the walls, you need to make a frame from metal profiles. Sheets of plasterboard are fixed on top of the frame, and the seams are covered with plaster. To fill the space between the wall and the drywall, you can use insulation (foam, mineral wool).

Important! The frame needs to be made depending on the pitch between the screws. It should be no more than 40 cm. After tightening the fasteners, it is necessary to cover the resulting holes with plaster.

Using plaster

To work with plaster you will need the following tools and materials:

Mesh for plaster.
Basic finishing mixture.
Primer.
Two spatulas.
Rules.
Roller or large brush for applying primer.
Lighthouses (if there are large differences in level).
Perforated corners for slopes.
Container for mixing plaster.
Drill with whisk for kneading.

Now you need to figure out how to level a doorway with plaster and what composition is best to choose.

Which plaster to choose?

There are three types of mixture for leveling walls:

Cement is a cheap composition that is moisture resistant. It is used to make a base on which putty or paint is applied to hide the gray color. It is important to remember that such plaster shrinks during operation.
Gypsum is an easy-to-apply composition that is uniform. The surface is smooth after application. Gypsum plaster is afraid of moisture.
Polymer - the high price of this composition is determined by its characteristics. This plaster is evenly applied to work surface and at the same time not afraid of water.

The plaster must be applied in two layers - base and finish. The first can be coarse-grained, the second only fine-grained.

How to plaster correctly

After choosing a leveling compound, you can begin the main work:

First of all, you need to prepare the work surface. To do this, it needs to be freed from wallpaper, the old layer of putty and plaster. Deepen the seams by 1 cm using a puncher. Sweep dust off the walls.
Apply primer to the walls with a roller or brush. Let it dry.
The next step is to install beacons. If there are no large differences in level, you can do without them. Beacons are placed strictly at level.
Perforated corners are installed at the corners of the opening. When the wall is smooth, a reinforcing mesh is fixed to it and another layer of plaster is applied.

Important! If you need to apply several layers of leveling solution, you need to wait until the previous one dries.

Using a wooden beam

In most cases, doorways are leveled using timber in wooden houses. Also using wooden beam ok, you can make a high threshold or reduce the opening itself in size. To carry out the work, you will need a hand saw for wood, anti-fungal impregnation, sandpaper, varnish or paint for wood, wood screws, and a screwdriver. If there are gaps between the main wall and the installed beam, you can close it with an additional cover.

How to reduce the width of a doorway?

During redevelopment or large-scale construction work, situations may arise in which it is required. You can use several materials for this:

Brick. The material most often used for wall construction. With its help you can quickly reduce the width of the opening. You will need mortar and red brick. Its quantity will depend on the value being reduced. For additional fixation You can use metal rods that are fixed in the main wall and in the seams of fresh masonry.
Drywall and wood. Using drywall you can make openings of any shape. For this purpose it is created metal carcass in the form desired by the owner of the home. Sections of drywall are secured to the resulting sheathing with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to level uneven places and holes with screws with plaster. Wood is used to reduce the openings of entrance doors.
Plaster. If you need to reduce the opening by a small amount, you can use a layer of leveling compound. Experienced finishers recommend strengthening it with reinforcing mesh.

The choice of material will depend on the desired shape of the future opening.

How to widen a doorway?

To increase the width of the doorway, you can use several methods:

Rude. A method involving the use of a sledgehammer, a jackhammer and a hammer drill. Before using the tool, you need to mark required size opening. You cannot use the rough method for thin and weak walls. The impact load may cause cracks to form or the wall to collapse.
Dry. This method involves using a grinder or a gas cutter. When using a grinder, you need to change diamond wheels frequently. When this tool is used, a large amount of dust is generated.
Wet. A method similar to the previous one. Only when cutting concrete or brick is a special cutter with a built-in spray gun used.

When carrying out any expansion work, it is worth initially dismantling the previous door frame and determining where the wiring, pipes and metal elements in the walls go. If tools get into metal, you can break it or harm your health.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we can say that any person who does not have additional skills can carry out construction work to level, expand or narrow a doorway. It is enough to choose the right materials and follow the sequence of actions.

U installation interior doors in the apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors, fittings and opening sizes, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.

Door opening dimensions

Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

Opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door widths for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that the door can easily pass through washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with the passage into the kitchen.
in the dressing room they usually make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be matched, for example, to an MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme for opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity When carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in adjacent rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tiled or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, takes quite a long time to dry, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake repair teams make is openings that are too high, because maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling out the platbands from the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden beam with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the joint of the floor when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors with a height of 2 meters. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom made from a wooden door frame, as aesthetics and ventilation are compromised wet room, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily needs to be laid dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the mate, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those who want to install sliding doors The opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door, it surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between flooring and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. Most common door hinges There are several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional, familiar to all of us mortise hinges. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

— time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

It is best to choose locks and latches based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high-quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.

You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
The canvas should fit evenly along the entire length to the vestibule or rubber seal. When closing the door, the rubber band should not be crushed by the canvas.
The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only by construction foam, but also with the help of fasteners
The canvas should not close or open on its own.
The fittings must rotate freely
The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.

1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide professional equipment: a miter saw, sawing table or manual Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, hammer drill, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

Correct most defects in the door frame internal door not difficult. The biggest difficulty that awaits the master is dismantling the canvas and correcting the shape of the box. Other types of repair work are more likely to be cosmetic in nature, and do not require special skills.

Types of problems and damage

All types of internal door problems are divided into two categories: damaged appearance of the product and improper functioning.

To correct defects decorative cladding the canvas will need to be reconstructed. Such work is carried out in the same way as restoration of cabinet wooden furniture.

Malfunctions of the door are expressed as follows:

The sash closes unsatisfactorily and loosely, resulting in abrasions on the floor covering. It is necessary to repair the hinges and adjust the position of the blade;

Important! When the sash often comes into contact with the frame, it is necessary to adjust the position of the leaf relative to the frame.

Uneven gap around the circumference of the vestibule (slits appear on one side, and on the other the panel rubs against the frame);
Sagging of the sash. Its own weight causes such deformation. If the deformation is not corrected for a long time, this will lead to distortion of the box;
When the blade moves, a creaking noise is heard. In this situation, you simply need to lubricate the hinges. If the creaking does not go away, then it is worth checking the frame for distortion;
The door doesn't open. If the humidity in the room is high, this will negatively affect the door frame. Moisture causes the frame to deform and misalignment occurs. A breakdown of the locking device can also lead to such a malfunction.

Sometimes a specific type of door deformation becomes a consequence of several factors, so you need to consider all the options for problems that arise with the doorway and be able to eliminate them yourself.

Causes of defects:

Incorrect door installation;
Poor quality or weak loops for heavy fabric;
Wear of loops or deterioration of their fixation;
Building shrinkage;
Poor fixation of the frame in the doorway.

Important! If the problems are related to faulty hinges, repairing the door will not be difficult. It is much more difficult to correct errors made during installation or eliminate the effects of shrinkage. We have to re-install the box and canvas again.

How to fix a door frame

The most difficult damage is deformation of the door frame; it is not always possible to fix it yourself, since you have to completely redo the frame.

Important! If the damage is not repaired, the canvas will soon shift diagonally, begin to rub, and with prolonged and intense pressure, the stand may also become deformed. This risks repairing not only the door, but also the wall.

How to align and adjust a door frame after installation

To repair the internal door frame, you will need to remove the panel from the hinges. Next, measure and determine the location where the displacement occurred. To determine the sagging, you need to check the diagonal.

Removing the fabric from the hinges, photo

Remove decorative elements from the door structure and screw additional bolts into the door leaf. This manipulation will help to fix it more firmly in correct position structure.

The old polyurethane foam will need to be removed and spacers wedged in.

By using special knife get rid of the old layer of foam

After this work, the structure can be foamed.

Foam the box again

Restoration of the internal door frame

Restoration work is carried out without removing the door. This is not required for puttying and masking scratches formed on the surface.

One of the simplest repair processes is adjusting the locking of the lock - the latch. Rubbing the “tongue” against the end plate on the box is a common defect. There are many reasons for this type of problem to occur. The most common:

A slight violation of the shape of the canvas or opening;
Minor sagging of the sash.

To eliminate such a problem, sometimes a few gentle blows with a hammer on the end of the plate window on the rubbing side are enough. A more decisive and time-consuming method is to remove the plate and increase the dimensions of the recess in the frame, seal the old mounting holes and reinstall the plate.

Incorrectly or poorly supplied frame, shrinkage of the building, which led to direct deformation of the shape of the doorway, require dismantling old design and its new installation.

Dismantling the door product, photo

Important! If the dismantling process is carried out as accurately as possible, then all elements of the box can be installed again.

The removed trims reveal the mounting seam, and the hinges and end strip on the box, on the contrary, “hide” the fastening points.

After releasing the mounting seam, unscrew the fasteners and remove the box. If the frame is fixed with foam, then the dismantling process is greatly simplified.

Sometimes it happens that the mounting bolts cannot be unscrewed. In this case, they are cut off and the box is shifted slightly so that the new attachment points do not come into contact with the old ones.

The door frame is reinstalled, observing all requirements regarding levels in the vertical and horizontal planes and the size of the gaps between the door leaf and the frame.

Installation and fixation of the box

Important! Be sure to maintain a gap between the floor covering and the canvas for supply and exhaust ventilation.

The final step is hanging the canvas and checking the functionality of the structure, securing the end plate of the locking device and platbands.

Repairing a door frame when fasteners are loose

Installation of platbands, photo

If the wood screws that hold the frame become loose, you can simply tighten them. Sometimes this method does not bring results, because the screws do not hold well in loose holes.

In this case, it is advisable to replace the fasteners. You can also equip old holes with plugs and install self-tapping screws in them.

If the door frame was fastened with nails, it is worth strengthening the structure with additional screws.

If the door frame is fixed in brickwork, then holes are drilled in the slopes and dowels are used for fastening.

When the door does not close tightly and vibrates in the frame renovation work consist of rearranging the locking device. For this purpose, unscrew the fastening screws and carefully remove the mechanism. To move the lock locking device, you need to expand its socket. This is done using a chisel, the old mounting holes are sealed, and the device itself is installed in a new location.

If the sash swings open and closes with difficulty, the leaf rubs against the threshold, which means the fastening hinges have become loose. To correct the situation, tighten all the screws so that the hinges stop moving.

Adjusting hinges, photo

Important! If the subsidence continues over time, the screws will need to be replaced.

Door frame trims

if the platbands are worn out, have acquired an unpresentable appearance, or are moving away from the jamb in some places, this indicates the need to replace them.

New trims are purchased taking into account the immediate dimensions and type of connection.

The platbands are removed and the surface of the frame is sanded. When removing the platband, a gap may form between the wall and the frame. During repairs, this gap is foamed.

Algorithm for replacing the platband:

Perform markings. The part is applied horizontally so that the upper edge deviates from the outer border of the vertical casing by approximately 5 mm, and the edge with inside from the edge of the frame - 5 mm. If necessary, the structure is leveled;
Holding the part, place a mark 5 mm horizontally from the inner edge of the frame. Similar manipulations are carried out with the other casing;
The workpieces are cut at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the applied markings. Then they are fixed on the box;
The vertical casing is also made and attached;

Important! The corners of the new design are also fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door and its adjustment should be carried out as accurately as possible so as not to deform the panel or frame.

Experts recommend that if you have wooden interior doors, you should do preventive maintenance, at least once a year, and then the door product will last a long time. If there are doubts about your own adjustment and repair, then it is better to entrust all manipulations to specialists.

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Ecology of consumption. Estate: A collection of tips with which you can heat external stairs, storm drains and gutters, and also calculate the power of an electric heated floor.

Due to installation errors or simply due to dilapidation, a metal door can significantly lose its stability. Depending on the type of awnings and design, doors may be used various methods elimination of distortion, including those requiring serious surgical intervention. Let's talk in more detail about how to eliminate the distortion of a metal door.

Determination of deformations

Curvature of the door leaf, wear of the awnings or deformation of the installation frame? Damage to metal door block may have a number of reasons, each of which manifests itself nearby characteristic features. Therefore, you should start with an accurate diagnosis.

For heavy safe doors, sagging of the door leaf is most common due to deformation of the hinges or their attachment points. In this case, there is an uneven gap along the contour of the narthex between the frame of the canvas and the inner edges of the box. The end result of such a defect will be the appearance of abrasions, usually in the upper part on the hinge side and the lower part on the lock side.

Deformation of the metal door leaf is also a very common phenomenon. The problem is that a thin steel sheet is reinforced with stiffeners, and the connection is made by electric arc welding. With this manufacturing method technological process production must include a low tempering procedure to eliminate residual stresses near the welds. If the steel structure does not undergo heat treatment, lens-shaped and helical twisting of the leaf is only a matter of time, especially when making a door from thin (0.75–1 mm) metal. The most intense twisting occurs during dynamic temperature conditions operation. The most obvious consequence of such a defect will be problems with locking the locks, as well as the uneven formation of through gaps along the contour of the vestibule.

If, when opening, the door eventually begins to touch the floor, and when you try to lift the door, there is noticeable play, most likely the reason lies in a violation of the installation technology. In this case, one can note the accumulation construction dust on the floor at the edges of the door frame, as well as the formation of cracks in adjacent sections of the wall and loose fit platbands. The essence of the problem is simple - the fastening of the door in the wall has weakened, a complete reinstallation is necessary.

Type of hanging system

Wear and deformation of hinges are the most common reason door skewing. Usually, damage to canopies is clearly visible to the naked eye: the hollow cylinder of the hinge has an uneven indentation from the surface of the box. The problem becomes more complicated when the door is hung on hidden hinges, as well as when the supporting rubbing surfaces wear out. In the latter case, the door sags evenly, that is, in the upper part the false gap is significantly wider than in the lower part. In some cases, the situation can be corrected by adjusting the hinges, but for this, the pin must have a threaded fit in the glass.

Hinges that are mechanically attached to the canvas and the box are easier and more difficult to fix at the same time. The ease of repair lies in the fact that there is no need for welding work. Problems arise when it is not the swivel mechanism, and there is a bending of the door body or frame. These types of defects are typical for cheap hollow tin doors. Manufacturers of heavier products often rely on awnings to consumables and structurally provide for a simple procedure for replacing them.

The narthex and gaps from the door frame

The production of metal doors has its own system of tolerances for compliance with dimensions and geometry. The most stringent requirements apply to the preservation common plane in two places: the protrusions of the door leaf behind the frame and on the front edges of the door frame. Safe doors require alignment of the general plane of the door leaf and trim, as well as parallelism of the ends of the leaf and the internal edges of the frame. In other words, in closed position adjacent parts should fit together as closely as possible.

You need to understand that deviation of clearances from the norm is not always a consequence of operational wear. Quite often, the door block initially has incorrect geometry, which is simply not paid attention to when accepting the door. You can check the coincidence of key planes using laser level, it is enough to build a vertical axis and align it, taking one of the vertical edges of the door frame as the base. By hitting all the corners and sides of the door frame on a target, you can find out which part of the door frame is curved. It is even easier to check the door; for this, use the correct ruler with an accuracy class of 0.5 mm/m. The dimensions of the door leaf and doorway are checked both along parallel sides and diagonals.

The factor of violation of shape and size during manufacturing must be excluded, because if it is present, attempts to correct the position of the door will not lead to a positive result. A mismatch in the basic geometry is a direct reason to contact the door manufacturer about replacing a substandard product. However, remember that for each metal door there is also a tolerance for reversible deformation that appears due to the temperature difference on both sides of the leaf. Therefore, a geometry control check should be carried out at least twice during the year.

Replacing awnings

Installation of new hinges with mechanical fastening can be done independently with only one hex key. First you need to support and fix the door in a half-open position with a sufficient opening width for comfortable work. The hinges are changed sequentially, so there is no significant subsidence. Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to make an adjustment, the process of which is carefully described in the instructions for a certain type of hinge. Additional difficulties may arise when the metal in the door frame or door frame pillars is deformed. In such situations, it is necessary to cut out repair windows, straighten the deformed area and strengthen it with a steel plate applied from the inside, extending onto the undamaged parts for at least a third of the total length in both directions.

Heavy external hinges are more difficult to replace. The first problems are observed already at the stage of selecting spare parts for replacement. If the hinges are made to order, take the trouble to ensure that they are hardened at the end of production, because the pins tend to bend precisely due to the dampness of the metal. It is also recommended that hinges be manufactured to accommodate the installation of a support ball bearing.

When replacing hinges, it makes sense to install more of them, which will help compensate for the heaviness of the door leaf. The procedure is as follows: the door is removed from the hinges, the canopies are cut off with a cutting wheel on both sides and the weld marks are carefully cleaned. Next, the door is pressed tightly against the frame, while from the inside, using mounting wedges, an equal gap is established on all sides of the rebate. You must first weld the hinges onto tacks in four points, then make sure the installation is correct and remove the doors from their hinges. You can even scald the awnings with an ordinary coated electrode, the main thing is to do it in the lower position with a seam with frequent tearing. The hinges are welded to the door frame in a vertical position of the seam with the direction from bottom to top. In order not to damage the rolling body, it is first removed from the glass along with the lubricant packed inside.

Correction of installation box geometry

While the metal door leaf cannot bend in its own plane due to its high rigidity, the installation frame can be noticeably deformed. The reason for this may be either pressure from the unsupported opening, or simply deflection under the weight of the hung door. Usually, to eliminate this effect, the door block is equipped with distributed anchor fastening, which remains entirely at the discretion of the installers.

Correcting the geometry of the steel frame is quite simple. To do this, you need to determine the base - the smoothest side of the box, located as close as possible to any of the normals. Using the laser axis plotter method described above, you need to create a deformation map to know exactly which way and how much to move the remaining ribs.

The curved sides of the door frame are subject to partial cutting: you need to clean the foam or cement seam and provide a gap sufficient for alignment. Next, you need to drill into the ends of the opening and place a number of anchors directed along the axes to counteract the efforts aimed at aligning the frame. For concrete walls It is recommended to use expansion anchors; for loose and cellular anchors - chemical ones. The thickness of the studs in both cases should be comparable to the overall cross-section of the box profile. Further actions are obvious: using levers and spacers, the frame is given the correct shape, after which the entire block is attached to the anchors by welding.

Straightening the web

The door leaf itself can be bent in directions parallel to its own plane, that is, by a propeller, twisting and swelling. Typically thickness steel sheet in the canvas is small enough to carry out leveling, albeit with the preservation of residual stresses.

This will require removing and disassembling the door, removing the internal lining, insulation, locks and bolt locking system. The essence of straightening is to install additional stiffening ribs located in the direction of bending. That is, if the central part of the door is curved outward, and the upper and lower edges are turned inward, the stiffener is installed vertically. Accordingly, when bending along a vertical axis, the installation of one or more horizontal ribs is required, and when helical twisting, diagonal ones are required.

Straightening the canvas in this way does not just require subsequent painting and replacement of the filler, this work must be carried out with feeling and understanding of the matter. First, it may be necessary to completely or fragmentarily remove all stiffening ribs with the exception of edging ones. Before installing new reinforcing elements, the door must be laid on flat plane, and then, using linings and bending, bend the canvas in the direction opposite to the direction of curvature. In this case, the reverse deformation must be carried out with a certain margin to compensate for the elasticity of the metal.

When is door block reinstallation necessary?

Summarizing the above, it can be argued that even very severe distortion and deformation of the door can be corrected. However, there are situations in which half-measures are not enough.

We are talking about installation defects in which the door jams or is not firmly secured in the opening. Thus, the design of the frame of a heavy safe door must necessarily include external gussets in the corners that absorb compression and tension loads from the massive door leaf. The side of the frame with hinges must be reinforced with multi-directional crossbars or anchors extending into the body of the wall at least 25–30 cm.

If these and similar requirements for the installation of metal doors have not been met, then even very careful leveling work will be useless over time. The correct solution would be to carry out complete dismantling with temporary installation of the cheapest door, and then correct the geometry of the removed door block and mount it back, observing all the rules and requirements. published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

The annoying problem of doors sagging

The annoying problem of sagging doors, especially wooden ones, can occur for a number of reasons.

The root causes may be different, but each of them leads to the fact that over time the door may not close at all, scratch the floor and completely stop working. It is possible to correct the situation with your own hands.
The interior door sank, what should I do? Video

Replacing or adjusting doors if interior doors sag

Replacing and adjusting doors
Repair of doors is required over time for any overlap of the opening of adjacent rooms.
The door structure is not only a decorative element of the interior design of a home, but also the main functional detail, which is simply indispensable in everyday life for a comfortable stay at home. After all, a door is so necessary in buildings of any type of use:
Protects the room from drafts;
Separates adjacent rooms relatively functional purpose;
Creates a cozy atmosphere and plays a decorative role in the stylistic design.

Not only can a used door fail, but also a completely new product due to failure correct installation, shrinkage of the structure as a whole, and so on.
In many cases, households begin to think about quickly replacing a door that has ceased to be visually attractive and has lost a number of functionality. If the question arises about whether you need to replace the block with something new, or start repairing the doors, then know that even an inanimate interior detail requires attention and care.
A product may no longer please you for a number of reasons that you can fix yourself:
The door leaf made of natural solid wood has cracked.

Such a visual misunderstanding is corrected by restoration work or decoration, a list of which is simply inconceivable to choose from. The entire process, both restoration and decorative finishing of the door structure, can be reproduced with one’s own hands in everyday conditions with low financial costs.
If restoration involves a thorough list of work, then decorating the sash can be done with your own hands without even removing it from its hinges: decoupage, painting, and so on.
The ceiling structure has become loose.

You can also strengthen the door frame with your own hands at home. Why just disassemble the block using a simple tool that everyone has? home handyman or borrow for a short period of time from a neighbor. In this case, you may only need to strengthen the door frame at the installation site, tighten the hinges, or tighten the leaf itself, that is, strengthen the loose or cracked panels of the wooden structure.
Nasty, cutting to the ear and nerves, creaking.

Lubricate the door

The creaking of a sash opening or closing is often caused by the friction of the pins, which are elements door hinges. The cause of the creaking may also relate to poor fastening of the hinges themselves to the hinge beam or the end of the canvas.
To eliminate the harsh sound, it is recommended to check the fastening of the hinges and lubricate them machine oil, or use graphite, pieces of which are inserted into the hinge gaps.
The doors don't close well.

A wooden door does not open or does not close, then its problem is hidden in the conditions of internal operation. Over time, any product made from natural solid wood can swell, that is, significantly increase in size around the perimeter. The door does not close due to a violation of its geometry: the door has swollen, the door has sagged, the hinges have become loose, the frame has moved, and so on.
There can be a lot of reasons why the sash does not coincide in geometry with the frame. If the door is seriously sagging, then it is recommended to take the issue seriously, which we will discuss below.
Possible reasons malfunctions

If the structure has sagged slightly or significantly, then this is indicated by the following visual circumstances: functional activity block:

The first slight abrasions on the door sill, due to the fact that the doors do not close well;
Damage to the flooring when the door does not close at all, that is, it does not fit tightly around the perimeter of the frame;
Clear gaps appeared around the entire perimeter.

If at least one of the above violations in the quality service of the floor block is confirmed, there is only one conclusion - the door has collapsed with a violation of the fit geometry. Before any adjustment of the doors is undertaken, it is worth examining the unit for malfunctions, and only then getting to work.
The main reasons why an interior door made of natural solid wood or other material does not open internal use use, the following misunderstandings include:

The hinges have moved away from the installation site;
Deformation of the door frame;
Violation of the geometry of the sash itself;
Swelling of canvas made of natural solid wood.

Many defects can be corrected with your own hands, but the work will require in all of the above cases:

PVA glue or other adhesive composition for working with wood;
Screwdriver or screwdriver;
Self-tapping screws;
Planer, chisel;
Hammer.

You may also need other simple household tools, which, if you don’t have them in your pantry, you can borrow from a neighbor.
Inspection and repair of hinges

First of all, if the door has sagged, it is recommended to inspect the hinged awnings, since the reason is most often hidden in them. To correct and return the functionality of the sash, door repairs will not be required; you just need to remove the door leaf from the hinges, inspect them and make adjustments. The answer to the question of how to remove a door from its hinges is simple:

Open the door;
Place a crowbar or other convenient object under it;
Using a crowbar (or your hands), lift the canvas from bottom to top.

This way, the sash will be freed from its hinges, but now it needs to be held safely so as not to be damaged. For these purposes, if such work is being reproduced for the first time, invite a member of the household to help, who will at least support the canvas so that it does not fall over.
Usually, hinges are secured to the hinge beam (door frame post) using wood screws. If the door sag significantly, then:
It is recommended to drive wood wedges under the unscrewed screws into the holes, then install the hinges on the screws in place.

First dip the wedges in PVA glue (or wood glue). To secure the hinges, use longer fasteners, and hang the door itself 24 hours after the adhesive has dried.
If the situation with the sagging of the ceiling has not been corrected after strengthening the hinges with wedges and new screws, then it is recommended to change the previous location of the hinges.

In this case, you can use the old hinges, but place them on the hinge beam in other places, as well as at the end of the sash itself.
Insertion of loops in new installation locations is done in the same way. The main thing is to correctly calculate the vertical axis of the location of the loop canopies and the distance between each other. The grooves in the wood are made using a chisel and impact with a hammer. It is better to use a chisel with a straight blade.
If the door sags in a short period after installation, then the problem lies in the large weight of the door itself, which the hinges cannot support.

The situation can be corrected simply by adding additional loops. You can embed a third loop, placing it at a distance of about 10-20 cm under the upper canopy. Or install an additional loop, moving the top one slightly higher.
If the door shrinks after a long service life, this may indicate wear on the hinges.

Over a long period of service, the core in the hinges wears out, which can simply be replaced. But this may not improve the functionality of old hinges, since they also wear out over time. It's better to buy new hinges.
If the door leaf is slightly sagging, the hinges do not need to be replaced, but slightly adjusted.

In this case, the door adjustment is made using a steel ring, which must be placed under the metal core of the element. A ball from a bearing of the appropriate size relative to the diameter can also help.
If this is not enough to correct the situation, then you can make a backing under the hinges that will slightly raise them from the hinge beam.
Do not forget that after manipulating hinge awnings, it is recommended to lubricate them with machine oil for prevention.

Detecting door frame deformation

After you have managed to adjust the door on its hinges, it may happen that it does not open or closes poorly. This means that the loops were not entirely to blame.
The problem, most likely, is the lack of the necessary functional gap between the frame of the structure and the sash.
To identify such a problem, you will need a building level, which checks the vertical and horizontal of the structure. As the door closes, it can cling to the frame in any part. If a clear violation in the installation or slight deformation of the box is determined, which is possible after a long period of operation of the unit, then the problem is solved by lightly trimming the structure at the exact location where the problem occurs.
It is worth noting that before you start trimming the door leaf, you need to thoroughly make sure that the frame itself has not succumbed to severe deformation. Otherwise, your efforts will be in vain, and the canvas will be damaged.
Major deformation of the frame is the most difficult problem associated with the door structure of the floor. Adjusting the doors will not help in this case unless the frame is completely redone. After all, how can you adjust the door if the base of the ceiling has succumbed to movement? If you ignore the deformation of the box, then in addition to the diagonal displacement of the canvas, over time the racks will move out of the plane of the opening.

Frame distortion can be corrected by the following manipulations:

The ceiling fabric itself is removed from loop awnings;
Vertical and horizontal measurements of the installation of racks are carried out;
The diagonal of the opening is checked;
The location of the displacement is found;
All decorative elements are removed from the ceiling: additions, platbands;
Fixing bolts are screwed into the frame structure to correct the situation;
Construction materials are removed from the gaps: plaster, polyurethane foam;
Spacers for the frame are installed in the necessary places, which in the future will hold it in the correct position;
Finally, the gaps are re-foamed and plastered;
Platbands and extensions are installed in place.

Violation of the geometry of the door leaf

Natural solid wood is a very valuable product, especially in home environment.
Materials of natural origin have always been valued. If the table is made of solid wood or other item decorative design the home does not require a certain degree of attention and constant care, then if the wooden door is damaged, it may be you who are to blame.
Doors made of wood do not close well due to their swelling or, conversely, drying out. This may happen because:

That the humidity level in the room is not maintained;
The block may not be processed protective equipment or special impregnations;
The installation itself could take place, for example, in winter time years when the unit did not have time to acclimatize in the internal heated room;
Installation of solid wood structures is not recommended in the openings of rooms with constant temperature changes and humidity fluctuations: bathrooms, showers, and so on.

If the door is already sagging, then you should not immediately run to the construction center for a new replacement made of a combined material. Repairing doors made of solid natural wood is very easy to do with your own hands using a regular plane or more modern instrument.
You can adjust the sash to the parameters of the frame using the trimming method problem areas on canvas. Before starting work, you need to take at least visual measurements:

Close the door;
Assess the size of existing gaps;
Remove the door from the awnings;
Sew the binding in certain places.

Any defects in the design of covering the openings of adjacent rooms can be corrected with your own hands. If correction methods are not possible, then it is better to invite a specialist to your home. After all, it is cheaper to eradicate faults right away, since over time they turn into major breakdowns.

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