This year, we have had quite a lot of snow in the Altai Territory since the fall, in almost a couple of weeks. Apparently the winter will be snowy, so don’t throw it. It’s good that last year I assembled a small but reliable snow blower with an engine from an old chainsaw. In the spring I only had time to test it: it proved itself to be, in general, quite good, although not without its shortcomings. Based on the experience of using it, I made some changes to it in the summer and now I present it to your readers.
The power unit is from an old Ural-2T chainsaw. This motor was used because it is light and quite powerful (5 hp), and also has a 1:2 reduction gearbox and an inertial clutch. This clutch engages whenever a foreign object enters the rotor, and it disengages the transmission without damage. And also the motor can be easily removed and used according to direct purpose(or on a lawn mower, scythe, etc., say in the summer, when the snow blower is not used in any way). The mountings of the power unit on the frame allow you to use the engine from the Druzhba chainsaw, only the power of this engine is slightly less, which is undesirable. These engines can still be purchased inexpensively today.
I also tried to use a minimum of turned parts, non-scarce materials and spare parts. As a result, the snow blower turned out to be very inexpensive and easy to manufacture.
It was decided to place the motor along the longitudinal axis because shifting the center of gravity to the left or right would lead to a skew of the gripping bucket in the horizontal plane. And then, having sung or on the right, there would have been an unfinished trace from under. And this placement also eliminates steering 8 in one direction or another. Although this placement led to the use additional details transmission, but the snow blower in this form looks more organic. Which in itself is also important!
The gas tank is a standard one, from a Ural-2T chainsaw with a volume of 1.6 liters, and is attached with two bolts to the steering support, which has two mounting eyes for this purpose. The gas handle (throttle control) is used from a Ural motorcycle.
The snow blower actually does not have a frame, or it can be called a combined one - a pair of levers with a steering cross member welded to the bucket frame.
Almost the entire frame is welded from square pipes of 20*20*1.7 mm, with the exception of the upper part of the bucket. A square pipe measuring 10*10*1.7 mm was used there. The bucket is “covered” with galvanized sheet metal 0.5 mm thick, the sheet of which is riveted to the frame with aluminum rivets with a diameter of 5 mm. The frame design uses a metal plate 600*40*4 mm, it is welded at the bottom of the bucket. And a polyethylene strip measuring 600*60*5 mm is riveted to it. This was done for better sliding of the bucket along the surface being cleaned (mainly on paving slabs).
Rotor-auger with strip-wings without blades
Rotor-auger assembly:
1 - shaft (1/2" pipe); 2 - driven sprocket of the rotor-auger shaft (z=33); 3 - support bearing in the housing (2 pcs.); 4 - rotor wing (metal plate 30x4); 5 - blade rotor (2 pcs.); 6 - auger blade (8 pcs.); 7 - wing of the auger blade (4 pcs.); 8 support angle (2 pcs.)
The working body consists of a shaft on which two counter-directed screws and a rotor are placed. The shaft is made of water pipe diameter 22*2 mm and length 568 mm. Steel tips are inserted and welded into the ends of the pipe - trunnions for support bearings. The screw rotor is mounted on two support bearings in housings. Bearings with dimensions 40*16*16 mm - closed type, ball. The bodies are cylindrical, machined from steel and each welded to its own piece of metal corner 25*25*4 mm, which is screwed to the bucket frame with two M8*40 mm bolts and nuts.
A driven sprocket is also installed on the auger and rotor shaft; it is secured with four M6*30 mm bolts and nuts to a flange welded to the shaft. This sprocket has 33 teeth for a chain drive with a pitch of 12.7. The chain is used from the Ant motorcycle. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the chain drive is installed inside the bucket body for the purpose of: firstly, to hide the moving chain with the sprocket, and secondly, given the dimensions of the snow blower, the bucket will have a larger snow-covering width, and thirdly, there will be fewer dead zones at the bucket (places from which it is impossible to capture snow, or limiting it). Twelve steel wing strips are welded to the shaft for attaching the auger blades and rotor.
The auger blades are made of 4 mm thick duralumin sheet. They are composite. Each part (in the shape of a horseshoe - to save material) is cut out with a jigsaw. This design of the blades simplifies their fastening, as well as replacement in case of breakdown. The blades have teeth cut into them to cut through dense snow. The “horseshoes” are secured to the auger wings with MB threaded bolts and nuts. The protruding parts of the screws are cut off and riveted so that they do not catch on anything and do not unwind. A duralumin sheet was used specifically to facilitate the rotating structure of the rotor-screw. Operation has shown that the 4-mm duralumin sheet provides sufficient strength.
Snow blower chassis (frame with engine and wheels):
1 - gas tank; 2 - engine; 3 - wheel; 4 - cardan shaft; 5 - bearing unit; 6 - drive sprocket (z-17)
The rotor blades (there are two of them) are made of sheet metal of stainless steel 2 mm thick. I didn't use it on purpose, but because I didn't have a simple one at hand. steel sheet required thickness, and the duralumin sheet has run out. The rotor blades are screwed, if possible, at the same distance from the shaft to eliminate runout during rotation. It is necessary to manually balance the rotor by placing it on the bearings. But if the wings and blades of the auger rotor are installed the same size and identical, then nothing will have to be balanced. But you still need to check.
The drive chain can be tightened or loosened by installing the auger-rotor shaft on the frame closer or further from the drive sprocket.
A cardan transmission is installed in place of the drive sprocket of the chainsaw engine gearbox. It connects the gearbox to the driving 17-tooth chain sprocket (with a pitch of 12.7 mm). The drive sprocket is installed at the end of the second bend of the propeller shaft. The driveshaft itself rests on two sealed ball bearings measuring 40*16*17 mm, installed in housings. The bodies are machined from steel and welded to corners measuring 40*40*4 mm and 120 mm long, which are attached to the frame using two threaded bolts M 10*40 mm with nuts.
Wheels measuring 3.25*8 inches with bearings built into the disc hub, used from Chinese wheelbarrows. The wheels are mounted on a tubular axle made from a water pipe with a diameter of 26 mm and a length of 550 mm. At the ends of the pipe, two axles with an outer diameter of 20 mm are welded, on which the wheels are directly installed and secured to them with two M10x30 mm bolts. I installed these wheels this winter (at first they were of a smaller diameter). These wheels are more convenient to use, as they have a larger diameter and width and do not sink so much in the snow. However, the quality of the rubber leaves much to be desired.
They haven’t started making wheel drive yet, and I think that’s right. Since the snow blower is lightweight and there will be little traction with the ground.
When working, if you come across a dense area with compacted snow, you need a lot of traction. But you can’t create it even with good tires, and you can’t install steel lugs - you’ll ruin it paving slabs. But there is a way out: with increased resistance to movement, you need to rest one foot on the wheel axle and push the snow blower. In this way, I can clear a meter-high (depth) snowdrift without any problems.
At first there was also a sleeve on the bucket that directed the snow to the side, but I abandoned it, since wet and sticky snow got stuck in it. And the sleeve also contributed to the creation of snowdrifts, and this led to snow retention. And when working, the sleeve did not save me from snow flying in my face. Fine snow dust is driven by the wind in the appropriate direction. Without a sleeve, snow from the rotor, rotating at high speeds, is thrown high up and forward and sprayed. Since the air is constantly moving, even when there seems to be no wind, snow dust falls neatly nearby. And if the wind blows, it generally carries it far away. At low, idle engine speeds, the snow is not sprayed so much and it is denser, flies out and lies in front. This is necessary to work in any “corridor”.
In general, the snow blower turned out to be small in size; lightweight - its weight was only 35 kg; economical - consumes little fuel - one liter of gasoline is enough to clear a fairly large area, and most importantly, quite productive and easy to use.
Total consumption of basic materials:
Square pipe 20x20*1 mm - 7.8 m. Square pipe 10*10x1.5 mm - 0.6 m. Pipe with a diameter of 22x1.7 mm - 0.6 m; pipe with a diameter of 26x1.7 mm - 0.55 m. Steel pipe with a section of 40x4 mm - 1.2 m; cross section 30x4 mm - 1.8 m. Half a sheet standard sizes galvanized sheet. A gasoline engine, two wheels and a few other things.
And among the identified shortcomings: this is a manual portable starter, which is inconvenient to carry with you all the time.
D. Slonov, Altai region
Severe weather in Russia they force owners summer cottages or private sectors to purchase snow removal machines. Severe snowstorms, snowdrifts of a meter or more in height, all this brings great inconvenience to transport and pedestrians. To eliminate such problems, many home craftsmen make a snow blower with their own hands from improvised materials. Thus, they have a reliable and economical unit in their assortment of equipment.
Types of technology
There are many different snow blowers on the market. All variations are divided into several types according to the method of work. Since rotary variations are the most popular, we will consider three classes in this category:
- Rotary auger - used to clear a small area of fresh and compacted snow. This technique is capable of throwing the mass to the sides or collecting it in a snow collector. A self-made auger cleaner has simple diagram, taking into account the presence of screws.
Design of the screw-fan unit
- The rotary plow unit is most suitable for removing fresh snow. The homemade device is placed on a mini tractor, mini loader or chassis and is equipped with a plow with 1-2 rotors.
- The rotary milling harvester has capabilities identical to the first option. This is a powerful snow blower with parameters that allow you to overcome three-meter snowdrifts and throw the snow mass at a distance of up to 20 m.
Before you make a snowblower, you need to know that the types in question are equipped with cutters-feeders and a rotor-thrower. This important aspect, which must be taken into account when designing a construction drawing.
How does a snow blower work?
The diagram of each homemade snow blower with your own hands includes a number of components and mechanisms. The components of self-propelled devices include:
- Power unit. A snow blower is made from a friendship chainsaw, a powerful trimmer, a gas mower or another device that has a gasoline or electric type with high torque.
- Chassis. Before you make your own snowplow, you need to decide on the chassis, whether it will consist of wheels or tracks.
- Casing. This part is located in the nose area of the equipment. For its manufacture, as a rule, durable plastic or metal is used. A functioning part of the snow blower, for example a special plow or auger, is placed in the inner part.
- Snow collection unit. This part is directly responsible for collecting snow; the models can use different working elements - a plow, an auger, a cutter.
- Outlet chute. There is plastic or metal type. When the device is operating, a volume of snow will circulate through it directly to the ejection area.
- Handles. Using the handles, the operator will be able to control the equipment or change modes.
- Rotor. Only used in rotary snow blowers with your own hands, it generally looks like a roller with many blades.
How to make a snow blower from a chainsaw? It's easy if you follow the steps and follow all the recommendations. For homemade snowblowers for the home with your own hands, you do not need the entire Ural chainsaw, but only its engine.
What you need for a DIY chainsaw snow blower:
- roofing iron;
- plywood sheet 1 cm;
- metal pipes ½ inch, ¾;
- metal corners;
- plastic pipe 16 cm;
- conveyor belt 1 cm thick;
- closed self-aligning bearings 205.
The steps to create a homemade snow blower from a chainsaw are as follows:
- First of all, you need to figure out how to make an auger body for a snow remover. Roofing iron is used for this. The sides are made of plywood. Weld a frame from strong metal corners according to the prepared drawings. Prepare a handle from a ½-inch pipe, and prepare an auger shaft from a ¾-inch pipe.
Drawing of a car made from a chainsaw
- In the middle of the shovel for discarding the snow mass you need to make through hole so that it can be attached to the pipe. For a 2-way auger, you need to prepare 4 rings from a conveyor belt with a size of 28 cm.
- Fix the metal corner on the pipe in a T-shaped position in relation to the plate. This is necessary to install the quick-release power unit platform. In order for the shaft to sink freely into the bearings, it must be equipped with two cuts at the edges. Also, on one side of the shaft you need to create a groove for installing a key under the star.
- It is recommended to use skis made from wooden blocks as a running shoe. Such a chassis will perform much better in operation than a wheelbase. To ensure that your DIY skis glide well on the snow, equip them with plastic pads from the electrical wiring box.
- To make a rotary chute, use plastic pipes. A pipe with a smaller diameter is fixed on an element with a larger one, while a narrower tube is attached to the auger frame. Fix the cut part from the finished rotary chute sewer pipe. When working as a homemade cleaner, she will set the direction where the snow mass should be thrown.
In order for the volume of snow to circulate freely through the system to the outlet, the size of the auger blade must be smaller than the diameter of the chute itself. Otherwise, the equipment will regularly clog.
- The length of the chute affects the direction of the snow throw and its flight distance. This should be taken into account when determining the size.
The final stage of creation snow blower Do it yourself from a chainsaw by treating the structure with an anti-corrosion agent and coating it with a paint and varnish substance.
VIDEO: Making a homemade snow blower using a Ural chainsaw
Schematic and assembly of the screw unit
Auger - required element any snow removal equipment. Structurally, it is a drum with twisted legs rotating in a spiral. At the base of the spiral there are metal blades, which, when rotating, rake snow from the sides to the center, after which they push the mass through the nozzle.
In order to make an auger with your own hands, you will need a shaft - it is made of a metal pipe with a diameter. The length is determined by the planned capture area. On average, this is from half a meter to 80 cm. Less is ineffective, more - the equipment will be difficult to move.
Two steel plates are welded to the center of the pipe rectangular shape- these are the future blades of the structure. The legs can be made from steel, the sidewalls of used tires or conveyor belt. Next, cut out 4 disks with a diameter of 28 cm from the metal sheet and cut a circle in the center along the diameter of the shaft. The rings are sawn on one side and carefully stretched to the sides - these are spiral turns, which, as indicated in the diagram, are welded to the shaft towards the blades.
It is important to maintain the same distance between the turns of the spiral, otherwise the snow blower will wobble to the sides.
Trunnions are welded along the edges of the shaft, onto which closed type bearings No. 305 are placed. This is necessary so that during cleaning the drum does not become jammed with a stone.
For the ladle you will need a 2 mm sheet of the same length as the auger + 2-3 cm at the edges. Bend it in a spiral so that the radius is 2 cm larger than the diameter of the knives. Side walls It’s better to make them metal too, but thick plywood will do. The hubs are inserted in the center and the made auger is placed. First, a belt drive pulley is placed on the axle. On the top of the bucket you need to make something like a sleeve with a visor to direct the thrown snow in the right direction.
Now it’s time to connect the electric motor, for which a frame measuring 48x70 cm and 50 cm wide with jumpers for installing the engine is prepared.
The runners are screwed along the lower edge of the frame (pre-cut 2 corners and bend the edges). Now all that remains is to install the motor, make a pulley and connect the cable.
Before the first start, turn the auger by hand and check that it moves freely. If there are no obstacles, you can start cleaning.
VIDEO: Converting a trimmer into a snow blower
Nowadays, markets are simply full of all kinds of equipment that can greatly facilitate work around a private home. IN winter time Equipment such as snow blowers is very popular. They have a fairly significant variety of models.
Some equipment is presented in the form of walk-behind tractors, while other models are manual type snow blowers, but in any case, such a device is very useful, especially for residents of the northern regions.
Features of assembling a snow blower from a chainsaw
If you understand the structure of the snow blower system, you can easily find that there is nothing complicated here, and anyone can assemble such equipment with only necessary tools and materials. Most materials are improvised materials that can be found in any garage. The only problem may arise when searching for a power plant, but there is no need to be upset here either, because you can make snow blowers yourself using even a simple engine from a Soviet Ural chainsaw.
Necessary materials
To assemble a snow blower from a chainsaw, you must first prepare all necessary materials, which will be needed to create elements such as a frame, auger, snow drain and housing.
You will need materials such as:
Advantages and disadvantages
Naturally, before you decide to make a snow blower with your own hands, and not just buy this equipment on the market, you need to understand what the difference will be. That is, it is necessary to highlight a certain list of advantages and disadvantages of a device made from a chainsaw, and, taking these factors into account, compare it with industrial models.
Let's start with the benefits of homemade snow blowers.
Disadvantages of a snow blower assembled by yourself.
- The main disadvantage is low technical capabilities, since the unit is assembled from old Soviet chainsaws to minimize cash costs. This can be easily corrected if you install a power plant from a more powerful chainsaw, but then the savings will be insignificant.
- DIY snow blower does not have a structure for movement, so you’ll just have to push it using your own strength, and this can get very tiring after a while.
Manufacturing the main elements of a snow blower
It is simply impossible to consider the assembly of a snow blower as a whole. Yes, some parts are already ready and, for example, you can use a power plant from a chainsaw, but the remaining structural elements will have to be made independently, and you will even have to use welding machine. If you do not have sufficient experience in welding, you will need to find a specialist.
Frame and powertrain design
If you decide to actually assemble a snow blower with your own hands using an old chainsaw, then first of all you need to understand the basics of the frame and power plant design.
The frame, as a rule, is assembled independently, and you will need Prepare all the necessary tools in advance and materials. The quality of the frame will determine the operation of all equipment, because all other parts of the snow blower are attached to it.
First of all, you need to find pipes of the same diameter and weld them to each other. Special attention It is worth paying attention to two longitudinal pipes, which not only serve as one of the parts of the frame, but also represent the skids of the snow blower.
That is why the front parts of the pipes must be cut at an angle and weld the holes to prevent snow from getting in there. If this is not done, the snow clogged in the pipe will melt over time, and the humidity will begin to form a corrosion process on the inner walls of the material. Naturally, it is difficult to clean the rust inside the pipe, and, most likely, by the beginning of next winter the entire frame will simply fall apart.
Two sections of pipes are installed longitudinally, and the remaining 2 parts are welded on the frame in a transverse position. Crosstubes are installed at the rear of the frame as they serve as a mounting location for the powertrain. The first pipe is usually installed in the rear position, and the second - at a distance of 200 mm. You can choose any distance between two transverse sections of pipes, but it should not exceed 700 mm. The result should be a frame in the shape of the letter “P”, only two longitudinal pipes are installed on the lower part of the structure.
Instead of a standard power plant, you can choose a motor from any Soviet chainsaw. They, of course, give in modern models in terms of power, but at the same time have good working traction, and this is exactly what is necessary for quality work snow blower.
All the parts of the chainsaw are not needed, you just need to remove the motor from the main frame and modify it a little. Need to put instead standard drive sprocket on which the chain is mounted, an ordinary small star. The small drive sprocket can be borrowed from the systems of motorcycles such as Minsk or Voskhod. If you do not need to remove the star in the future, then it is simply welded, but the part must be centered in advance.
Features of the auger housing and drive
After the manufacture of the frame has been completed, and the power plant has been safely converted into a future snow blower, it is necessary to move on to the main working parts, or, more precisely, to the auger. To begin with, you need to take a pipe with a small diameter, although a regular shaft with a length of 800–850 mm may be suitable. This shaft length is necessary in order to install the drive, which is located in front of the main part of the housing, that is, actually outside it. Important condition in the manufacture of a screw - this is the selection of bearings that are suitable for the shaft.
Next you need to take sheet metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm and cut out 4 circles same size. Their diameter should be exactly 300 mm. After this, holes are cut out in all four circles, which equal 220–230 mm. The next stage is cutting the circles, which will subsequently help make a coil out of them. That is, after an incision is made on sheet material, the circles are simply bent into turns according to the principle of a spring. This work must be done with all circles.
The next step is to identify the central part of the shaft, but it is necessary to take into account the distance that the drive will use. Two plates 130 mm long and 150 mm wide are welded onto the central part of the shaft. The sheets should be parallel to each other, but small errors are allowed. The main purpose of these sheets is to throw snow aside when the snow blower is operating.
Next you need to weld pre-prepared screw strips onto one side of the blades. After this, spacers are installed on the shaft, to which the second side of the screw strips is welded. The arrangement of the screw plates must be such that all 4 parts were directed to the central part of the auger. More precisely, the tapes should be placed on the blades, 2 pieces on each side, and their position should be parallel to each other and they should all look into the central part of the system. This entire structure must fit into the length of the shaft, which is 700 mm, since the rest is used for installing the drive.
Case manufacturing
The main part of the body is made by hand from round sidewalls, which should exceed the size of the auger by 70 mm. Next, a sheet of metal having a thickness of about 1 mm is welded around the circumference of the sidewalls. As a result, the metal sheets should form a semicircle, so they must be bent in advance under the required form. Holes are made in the sidewalls on both sides along the central part. After this, an auger is installed in the holes.
WITH outside Before fixing the screw, it will be necessary to put bearings on the shaft, which are eventually pressed and secured. It must not be forgotten that the auger must be centered. In order to secure the bearings you will need to use cages, although there is another installation option. The outer races are simply welded together with the bearings installed on them, but then the snow blower cannot be disassembled.
Collecting snow removal
The basis of the snow drain is made by hand, and you need to find an aluminum pipe that has diameter not less than 150 mm and length 100 mm. You will also need to find sheet metal from which the box will ultimately be formed. As mentioned earlier, the segment aluminum pipe will be the basis for snow removal. Therefore, to install it, you will need to make a hole in the auger, taking into account the diameter of the pipe section, but it should be located behind the auger blades. A pipe is inserted into the holes made and secured with ordinary bolts, and a pre-made box is put on top of the structure.
We must not forget about the small sprocket, which was safely unscrewed from the motorcycle. It is put on a section of the shaft, which was allocated just for the drive.
Assembly of the entire structure
The last stage of assembling a snow blower from a chainsaw with your own hands is assembling the entire structure. First of all, the housing together with the auger is installed on the longitudinal parts of the manufactured frame and welded to it. The power plant is fixed to the transverse part of the structure, but so that the driven and driving sprocket are located strictly in the same plane.
A chain is installed on the drive, and you can even use a part from a motorcycle. Tensioning the chain is quite difficult, but this can be done in two ways. The easiest way is tensioning the chain by moving the power unit, but this is only allowed if it is possible to move the motor longitudinally and then secure it at the desired point. The second option is to install a tension sprocket, which is installed using bolted fasteners to the auger.
All that remains is to make a handle from metal pipes, which the snow blower will be controlled. The handle also controls the throttle valve on the engine.
Before checking the operation of the snow blower, you need to make sure that the entire structure is assembled correctly, all wires are connected, and the screw blades on the auger do not touch the body.
Conclusion
It’s quite simple to assemble a snow blower from a chainsaw with your own hands, using additional materials at hand. All you need for this is patience and time. As a result, you can get a high-quality device for the household, which will not be inferior in terms of technical specifications industrial models. A snow blower is an excellent assistant for quickly and comfortably clearing snow.
In the territory Russian Federation In winter there is a large amount of snow. In some places the precipitation reaches a height of a meter or more. It is in such conditions that a snow blower is simply an irreplaceable thing. The market offers a large assortment of snow removal equipment of varying power, household and semi-professional types. However, not everyone will be able to allocate a sufficient amount of money to purchase expensive foreign cars. One of the options for obtaining a snow blower could be homemade version made from a chainsaw.
How to assemble a snow blower with your own hands?
Having understood the design of snow blowers and familiarized yourself with the drawings from the Internet, you can build a snow blower with your own hands using a chainsaw. Even a beginner can easily master this homemade product. Having a number of necessary components, tools and spare parts on hand, you can construct a homemade snow blower.
The only difficulty you may encounter is finding a power unit. However, any motor of domestic or foreign chainsaws is suitable for these purposes. On forums and on many websites you can find various diagrams and drawings that show what components are needed and how to connect them together.
Choosing a chainsaw for a homemade snow blower
The power and performance of a snow blower directly depends on the engine you choose. This main element is removed from the chainsaw. The higher the power of the saw, the better. The engines in household models are two-stroke, power varies from 2 to 10 horsepower. For a homemade snow blower, 5 horsepower will be quite enough. Below we will look at the most popular brands of chainsaws that are often used for homemade snow blowers.
Chainsaw “Friendship”
This chainsaw was developed during the USSR, in 1950, after which it began to be produced en masse in the Soviet Union. Since then, the technical indicators and characteristics of the saw have become significantly outdated. The weight of the unit is 12 kg, in addition, the saw has large dimensions. Experienced owners say that the first saws, which were assembled in the first decade of the plant’s existence, still work properly.
However, chainsaws produced after 1990 are characterized by frequent defects, regular breakdowns, malfunctions and a short service life.
Gasoline saw “Ural”
Another representative domestic production chainsaw “Ural” tools can be called a kind of improvement on “Druzhba” saws. With the same weight, the Ural has more power from a two-stroke gasoline engine (5.5 horsepower) and smaller dimensions. In this regard, the performance of these devices is much higher.
German chainsaw “Stihl”
Imported sawing equipment is often much better in quality and performance. Foreign factories, such as the German concern Stihl, always try to produce technological innovations. Of course, this also affects the cost of the equipment. “Shtil” is one of the most popular companies among the Russian population, because it has high power, excellent quality, long term service and a relatively low price.
What does it take to make a snow blower?
Next, using an example, we will look at assembling a snow blower with our own hands based on a Ural chainsaw. The fact is that in this particular chainsaw the inertial clutch in some cases acts as a kind of fuse, protecting the rotor from breakdowns and malfunctions. The equipment motor is equipped with a 1:2 reduction gearbox.
Our goal is to create reliable and productive snow removal equipment with our own hands on a budget.
To do this, we will try to use accessible and cheap materials:
- aluminum and metal pipes;
- metal sheets;
- bearings and fastenings;
- chainsaw motor;
- welding;
- improvised tools.
The assembly process itself is not particularly difficult, so every man could successfully make a snow blower with his own hands at home. You don't need any special skills to do this. If you don’t know how to properly operate some tools, you can watch a couple of video lessons on this topic.
Schemes, drawings and principles of assembling a homemade snow blower
On the Internet, on forums and discussions, you can find many drawings of a snow blower made from a chainsaw with your own hands. In our example, consider the following diagrams:
The engine itself must be placed on the longitudinal axis for reliability and quality of operation. In addition to the motor, use a fuel tank from a Ural chainsaw, securing it to the steering support with two bolts. The control handles can be taken from the motorcycle. To create a bucket you will need pipes with square section 20x20x1.7mm, from which the frame is designed and covered with a tin sheet, the thickness of which is not less than 0.5 mm.
Below are drawings for assembling the most important part of the snow blower - the auger rotor.
You can make an auger with your own hands from the following parts:
- shaft in the form of a ½ pipe;
- a driven sprocket mounted on the shaft;
- two bearings mounted on the housing;
- rotor wing 30x4 mm;
- rotor blades, 2 pcs;
- auger blades, 8 pcs;
- wings for blades, 4 pcs;
- support corners, 2 pcs.
The blades can be made from duralumin sheet, the thickness of which is 4 mm. Using jigsaws you cut out a kind of horseshoe. You will make the fastening process much easier if you cut them individually rather than as a single piece. Below are drawings of the rotary auger blades.
As described above, when creating blades, it is better to cut them separately, in the form of horseshoes, and attach them to the shaft. However, some users cut out rings from a metal sheet using a grinder and a jigsaw, and then stretch them into a spiral with a vice. This method is more effective, but significantly more difficult in terms of physical activity.
Video reviews and lessons on how to make a snow blower
Sometimes in winter there is so much snow that it is impossible to remove it with a regular shovel. When living outside the city we're talking about about fairly large areas. To facilitate cleaning work, you need to use special equipment. However, acquiring it is very expensive. Many home craftsmen recommend making a snow blower from a chainsaw with your own hands.
This solution will not only allow you to quickly and inexpensively get rid of snowdrifts, but also give a second life to an old tool instead of throwing it away.
Advantages of the device
Homemade snow blower from a chainsaw has several advantages. In particular, the following should be noted:
Do-it-yourself snow blowers can be made from other products, in particular, walk-behind tractors and more. The most popular option among craftsmen is to make such a device from a Ural brand chainsaw.
What do you need for work?
Snow removal machine assembly process will differ depending on which unit this is based on. If we consider the Ural chainsaw as a working material, then it is good because it includes a high-quality transmission that protects the saw from damage. Thanks to the inertial clutch, the insides are reliably protected from external influences. For example, if a foreign body gets inside, the saw immediately turns off, so it can be cleaned and avoid damage.
This chainsaw is good because the machine based on it does not require the use of complex parts and tucks or the purchase of complex mechanisms.
To work you need to prepare the following:
There is no need to purchase any expensive new materials; most of the listed tools and parts are available in the arsenal of almost everyone home handyman. If they are not available, then you can buy them at a flea market for a very affordable price or ask your friends.
A homemade snow removal design includes several key components. Among them:
- engine;
- wheelbase;
- cardan shaft;
- bearings;
- leading star.
First you need to provide strong fastening of the structure. The motor should be placed strictly in the center to prevent uneven snow scooping or distortions. It is supplemented with a gas tank, which for convenience is attached to the steering support using bolted connection. You can take a throttle handle with a cable from an old motorcycle, which will allow you to easily control the engine throttle.
In order for the snow removal device to work, you will need to weld the frame. There is no need to use complex drawings for this; everything is much simpler than it might seem.
For the bucket you will need square pipes with parameters 20 by 20 by 1.7 mm. Based on them, you need to assemble a frame, then cover it with galvanized steel so that the bucket does not rust or rot in the future. The steel must have a thickness of 5 mm to avoid mechanical damage. Metal sheets
attached to the frame aluminum rivets. For easier use, the structure needs to be welded to the bucket metal plate, which will allow him to move more easily in the snow. The plate should have a size of up to 60 cm in width and up to 4 cm in length, respectively. It is better to cover it with polyethylene: then snow will not stick to it.
Shaft design
The shaft is one of the key elements in the design of a harvesting machine. It consists of a pipe base to which screws are welded.
For the shaft you will need to take:
- steel pipe;
- a driven star welded to it;
- bearings for mounting inside the screw pipe;
- wing rotors and two rotor blades;
- augers;
- blade wings;
- two support corners.
The cardan shaft is a rotor to which screws are welded parallel to each other, which face different sides. First you need to take a steel pipe, at the ends of which bearings will be installed. For this purpose, a trunnion is welded to the end of the pipe, and then closed-type bearings are mounted on it.
Then you need to install it in the center of the shaft extra star, which will transmit torque from the motor to the shaft. The elements will be connected by a chain; it can be taken from an old motorcycle. Such a star must have 33 teeth, observing a pitch of 12.7, and it is secured with special bolts. To ensure that the circuit and other parts of the system are not exposed to negative external influences, it is recommended to provide a housing for the structure.
Once the star and bearings are installed, snow clearing blades are welded to the shaft. You will need 6 steel strips located on each side of the shaft.
Augers are manufactured in different ways. They can be solid and can be ordered or made yourself. The easiest way is to cut the steel into “horseshoes,” which makes it easier for the auger to attach to the pipe. In terms of strength, the design will be practically no different from the factory one. To improve the performance of the machine, it is necessary to provide teeth for the auger blades. You can cut them with a grinder. The blades are then attached to the wings using M6 bolts. All bolts will need to be unscrewed; accordingly, the ends of their connections must be riveted.
The finished rotor should have two duralumin blades based on steel 2 mm thick. Instead of steel, you can use stainless steel, which will be more durable.
The blades are placed symmetrically, thanks to which they will be reliably protected from mechanical influences. After installation, the structure should look balanced and symmetrical. To connect the gearbox and transmission sprocket during engine improvement, it will be necessary to replace the gearbox drive sprocket with a 17-tooth design in a pitch of 12.7. It is placed on the cardan shaft at the end of the second bend. When working with a wheelbase, you need to take into account that it must have an axle with a pair of bearings; rollers or axles are placed on them. They are welded onto the ends of pipes.
The wheels can be equipped with built-in bearings, in which case replacing or repairing them is much easier and faster. The axle and wheels are secured using M10 bolts.
The final touch to assembling the machine is installing the snow guide. A sleeve is welded to the bucket; after assembly, the snow will come out through it. If your snow blower engine is rated at 7 horsepower or less, it may fail during heavy snowfalls.
The Ural chainsaw and other brands can also be used for homemade production others useful devices. For example:
- lawnmowers;
- sawmills;
- water pump.
The key requirement for a particular device that is planned to be manufactured is that it must have a small-sized, powerful engine. Armed simple tools From a home workshop, you can make useful devices to make household work easier - in particular, tools for removing snow in winter.
