What material is best to decorate the inside of a bathhouse? Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos. Prices for moisture-resistant drywall

The steam room is the most important place in the bath. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and experience the maximum benefit from its effects on the body, you need correct finishing walls

The effect of the visit will be even more enhanced if the decoration of the steam bath is done with your own hands.

Selection of materials

To the question “How to decorate the inside of the bathhouse?” we can answer unequivocally that the most suitable material is a special panel for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:

good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
no condensation
pleasing to the eye appearance
ease of installation
reasonable cost

The best breeds Deciduous wood (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash) has long been considered the starting material for the manufacture of lining, since walls made of them allow the room to quickly warm up, while at the same time remaining comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not cause harm to health.

Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material.

Linden lining it is advisable to process it first with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Due to its hardness, aspen lining is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceilings and walls.

durable, resistant to decay process is ash, with the help of its beautiful core you can achieve an attractive effect.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy material for finishing ( especially inside a bathhouse made of foam blocks).

It is not recommended to take it Birch is used as a starting material for lining due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during preparation.

If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this rock, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparing for use it will susceptible to drying out.

A relatively new material, which professionals advise using to cover walls in a steam room, is lining made from African oak Abash(or Abashi).

This coating has a number most valuable properties , thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

low level of thermal conductivity;
lightness and at the same time strength;
resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
resistance to rotting;
the presence of a unique, beautiful pattern on the surface.

U of this material there is only one drawback - it's his quite high cost. But it is covered by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever the source material the lining is made from, it must first be well dried and processed so that there are no roughnesses on it.

What can't be used in a steam room?

It is unacceptable to trim steam room with coniferous species (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

when the walls are very hot, touching them can become unexpected and quite unpleasant;
drops of released resins can get on the skin and burn it.

It is not recommended to use hardwoods such as oak and walnut. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are covered with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe. In addition, if you accidentally touch them, you can burn your skin.

You should not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects chemical substances on the human body at very high temperatures Oh.

DIY finishing process

Basic moments interior finishing step by step:

Manufacturing of sheathing;
Fastening steam and thermal insulation;
Installation of wooden panels.

Requirements for installing sheathing

Hydro- and thermal insulation of steam room walls

For vapor barrier Most often, aluminum foil is used, as well as foamed polymer materials (polypropylene). Advantage polymer materials is that they simultaneously have steam and heat insulating qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of dampness and the appearance of fungus.

Sequencing:

Attach to a timber wall (mineral wool is best suited for these purposes).
Attach a layer of foil to the insulation.
Install the sheathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly cover walls and ceilings with clapboard, watch the video instructions:

Features of dressing room finishing

Find out more about the secrets of finishing a bath from the video below:

Log or timber bath has an attractive facade that does not require additional decorative finishing. But buildings made of slag blocks, bricks and OSB panels require external protection and aesthetic improvement of the facade.

Finishing materials for construction market there is a huge number, but choose suitable option It’s quite difficult for a novice master. How to cover the outside of a bathhouse to get a functional and attractive building?

Materials for exterior finishing of baths

The external finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in conjunction with the thermal insulation of the facade. In order to economize usable area buildings, insulating material is recommended to be installed on the outside of the structure. The best option is a ventilated facade, which will provide reliable protection from penetration of moisture and cold.

The following decorative materials are used for the insulated facade:

wooden or plastic lining;
metal and vinyl siding;
block house;
panels for imitation timber;
decorative plaster;
corrugated sheeting

The traditional material for the exterior decoration of a bathhouse is wood, but metal and plastic are becoming more and more in demand. Such materials are characterized by increased strength, wear resistance, durability, and inertness to negative factors and aesthetics.

Covering a bathhouse with siding

Siding - decorative panels of a standard size: width - 22 cm, length - 125 cm. The material can be metal or vinyl, has more than 10 colors.

To sheathe a timber bathhouse with siding, you must first install a profile frame or wooden sheathing on self-tapping screws. All installation work can be done independently. The surface of the walls is carefully treated with antiseptic compounds to prevent the formation of mold and harmful microorganisms.

The siding is installed in a horizontal position with a distance of 20 cm from the foundation of the building.

Covering a bathhouse with siding has the following advantages:

protection of the facade from precipitation;
resistance to temperature changes and fading;
inertness to deformation and mechanical damage;
Fire safety;
absence of toxic elements;
good air permeability;
low level of moisture absorption;
accessibility of installation.

However, the material has some disadvantages:

high cost of individual fixing elements of the structure;
the appearance of deformations and play due to violation of installation technology;
the need to create a flat surface for fixing the panels.

Bathhouse cladding with imitation timber

Imitation timber is a type of lining that is used for cladding facades. Board dimensions: thickness – 1 cm, width – from 10 to 16 cm.

A distinctive characteristic of the material is the presence of a central groove to relieve stress in the wood, which helps extend the service life of the finish.

Imitation wood is made from various breeds, but coniferous wood is considered the best.

The main advantages of the finishing material include:

environmental safety;
affordable and quick installation;
resistance to aggressive substances and damage;
aesthetics;
variety of standard sizes - width, length and thickness;
high thermal insulation characteristics;
long service life.

But even this practical material is not without significant drawbacks:

the need for periodic treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants;
susceptibility to fire and rot;
the possibility of deformation due to insufficient drying or the use of low-quality raw materials for manufacturing.

The log house of the bathhouse is sheathed horizontally with the tenon facing outwards. This type of fastening is resistant to deformation and moisture penetration. The material is mounted on a flat surface using wooden or metal sheathing. Before painting, the imitation wood is carefully sanded sandpaper fine grain.

Covering a bathhouse with a block house

It is a type of imitation wood whose outer side is rounded. The factory technology for drying block house panels provides a standard humidity of 12%.

Advantages of a block house for external cladding:

environmental friendliness and naturalness;
attractive appearance;
affordable price;
simple and easy installation;
convenient sizes.

There are practically no negative aspects to such coverage. In some cases, they are associated with a violation of installation technology or low quality wood that was used for its production.

The panels are installed on a pre-prepared wooden frame at a minimum distance from each other of 65 cm. Fixation is carried out from the foundation to the roof using self-tapping screws. The finished coating is sanded and treated with protective varnishes or paints.

Finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboard

Traditional material for exterior finishing– wooden lining. This facade has an aesthetic and modern appearance and fits well with any architectural style.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse with wooden clapboard has the following advantages:

environmental safety;
durability;
high noise and heat insulation;
low thermal conductivity;
accessibility of installation.

Before decorative finishing The outer walls of the bathhouse are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, which do not contain hazardous components.

The sequence of cladding with wooden lining involves the preliminary preparation of a frame made of thin wooden slats. The lathing is fixed to the bath strictly according to the level to prevent possible deformation of the finishing material. The outer boards are installed first, then the central part is filled.

The lathing is mounted on screws or nails. Additionally, each slatted structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to protect against rotting. The gaps between the slats are filled with wooden inserts or wedges.

Wooden lining strips are mounted on the finished sheathing, with the first part being installed horizontally and strictly level. At the bottom, the lining is fixed with nails or screws, and in the center - with a hidden fastener.

Finally, a properly sheathed bathhouse frame can be treated with varnish or a coloring composition of the desired shade.

Covering the bathhouse with plastic panels

To quickly and cheaply tighten frame bath, you can use decorative plastic panels. The plastic facade has an attractive appearance, and its performance characteristics are not inferior to siding.

Plastic panels have the following advantages:

low cost;
wide choice of colors;
resistance to corrosion and rotting;
low hygroscopicity;
no need for additional treatment with antiseptics;
frost resistance;
practicality and wear resistance;
accessible and easy installation;
simple maintenance.

Despite positive sides, such material is not without its drawbacks:

low air permeability;
susceptibility to mechanical damage, deformation and fading;
high flammability.

Plastic panels are mounted on a pre-installed slatted frame. Before starting work, the surface of the bathhouse is carefully treated with compounds to protect against fire and rotting.

Finishing the bath with warm plaster

An alternative option for finishing the facade of a bathhouse is warm plaster, which is a solution based on cement, expanded clay chips, perlite sand, powdered pumice and granulated foam.

Facade plaster has many advantages:

high sound and heat insulation characteristics;
good adhesion to any type of base;
installation without use reinforcing mesh. Exceptions include deformed areas of the façade;
resistance to rotting, burning, mold formation, infestation by insects and other pests;
does not require preliminary leveling of the surface.

The disadvantages of the material include the following:

impressive weight;
high price;
limitation on the thickness of the decorative layer - permissible thickness no more than 5 cm;
necessity finishing primer and painting;
the need to strengthen the foundation of the building.

The plaster is applied to the cleaned surface manually or by machine. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Decorative design of the pediment

What is the best way to cover the gable of a bathhouse? The answer to this question depends on what material was used to manufacture it and decorate the facade of the building.

The wooden pediment is sheathed with any material with preliminary waterproofing of the surface.
Concrete and brick pediments have no restrictions; the only requirement is leveling the surface and installing sheathing under the cladding.

The pediment cladding is made with the following materials:

professional sheet;
siding;
bitumen shingles;
block house;
stucco.

The finishing material is attached to the pediment on a prepared surface, on a wooden sheathing or aluminum posts.

To decide what material to cover the facade of a bathhouse with, it is important to take into account not only your financial and technical capabilities, but also design features buildings. At the same time, all the work on installing the cladding can be done independently, the main thing is to follow the basic rules and recommendations.

How to line the inside of a bathhouse and how necessary is it? The question that worries the owners of these premises may have several answers. So, if the bathhouse building is built from natural logs, the walls inside do not need to be sheathed, unless you use clapboard for elegance.

After completing the construction of the bathhouse, you should think about arranging it from the inside. For cladding, the most various materials, which are selected depending on the material of the bath itself.

The walls of brick or stone, gas or foam concrete buildings must be sheathed. Firstly, this is the only way to achieve maximum insulation of the room. Secondly, bare walls look unaesthetic.

You can cover the walls of a bathhouse or sauna with different materials:

clapboard made of different types of wood or block house;
wooden boards;
glass-magnesium sheets.

You can make a choice that suits your tastes and material capabilities by familiarizing yourself with the requirements for lining the inside of a bathhouse and the characteristics of different materials.

What should you consider when choosing cladding for a bath?

In steamy rooms, you should never use fiberboard or chipboard, as they emit toxic substances when heated.

Before you start choosing the cladding, you need to consider that wood is the most suitable material for a bathhouse. However, in the steam room, dressing room, and relaxation room, you can and should use different breeds of it.

For rooms with the lowest humidity and stable temperature (dressing rooms, rest rooms), pine can be used. This inexpensive wood does not crack, is characterized by low thermal conductivity and beautiful design. The phytoncides that pine wood has released for many years are very beneficial for health. Pine wood impregnated with resin is not afraid of fungi, dampness, or mold. However, it is completely unsuitable for steam rooms or interior spaces sauna: when heated, pine begins to release resin. Using the steam room becomes inconvenient. And the heavy aroma of pine needles may make breathing difficult rather than easier.

Alder, linden, abashi, aspen, poplar or larch are suitable for cladding rooms with very high humidity and temperature. Firstly, even at temperatures above 100°C, these rocks do not heat up very much. Secondly, such wood dries quickly and is not afraid of mold and mildew. It does not emit resinous substances.

Important: in the bathhouse (especially in steam rooms) you cannot use materials obtained by chemical means. Fiberboard and chipboard, linoleum, laminate and similar materials emit very toxic substances when heated: poisoning can occur. They are also very flammable. The only exception is magnetite, because it is produced without the use of chemical resins and is environmentally friendly.

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Wooden cladding for a bath

It is clear that the best cladding for a bathhouse is wood or materials made from it. But what is the best way to cover a bathhouse? Ordinary boards? Block house? Wooden clapboard? Let's consider the features of all these materials.

Lining for finishing the inside of a bathhouse is an excellent option. It is inexpensive and quite easy to install.

Regular boards. The plank upholstery is attached to the sheathing, always at a right angle. But ordinary boards are rarely used. Untreated with antifungal compounds, they can quickly rot. A ready-to-use board is relatively expensive, but it looks worse than, for example, clapboard or a block house. Planing boards yourself and treating them with special impregnations is time-consuming and expensive. Using them to level walls is not easy. In addition, the boards may contain a certain number of knots, which negatively affects both the operation of the cladding and its appearance. That is why lining or block house is often preferred to ordinary boards.
The advantages of lining are undeniable. It is most often chosen for interior wall cladding in various bath rooms. Here are its main advantages:
- since lining and eurolining are made from different types of trees, you can always choose exactly the type of wood that you like best;
- even amateurs do not have a question about how to line a bathhouse from the inside with clapboard: convenient tongue-and-groove locks allow you to cope with facing works for both the novice master and the experienced professional;
- clapboard cladding looks very aesthetically pleasing, attracting visitors with its unique wood pattern; the panels allow you to visually align any wall;
- The technology of laying the boards requires that tiny gaps remain between them; they improve air circulation in the bathhouse, help the walls “breathe,” and prevent condensation.
A wonderful alternative to lining is a block house. Externally similar to natural logs, this material is many times superior in strength and ease of use, does not dry out, does not crack, and does not warp. How to cover a bathhouse with a block house? The same as with regular clapboard. First you will have to build a sheathing (frame), and then use nails, staples or clamps to secure the block house. Be sure to be at right angles to the sheathing.

When choosing a lining or block house for a steam room and other “hot” rooms, you cannot choose coniferous species (except larch).

Wood is a material that has long been used for cladding baths and saunas. That's where the tree is the best way reveals its properties - the ability to create a microclimate and retain heat perfectly.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to line the inside of the bathhouse with wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for step-by-step cladding of a bathhouse with clapboard inside.

Finishing a bathhouse or sauna with clapboard has its own characteristics that must be taken into account at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for cladding a bath, you need to consider:

high temperature;
temperature fluctuations (drops);
humidity level;
budget.

Which lining to choose for a bathhouse

The selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of the lumber:

1. Board type

When finishing a pair of wooden linings, it is better to give preference to Euro linings.

Firstly, because it has a large tongue-and-groove system (the length of the tongue reaches 8 mm).

Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on back side lamellas, which promotes ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamellas.

Thirdly, because the eurolining is already pre-treated with wood preservatives that can be used in a sauna.

2. Type of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable, in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even living knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Wood species

To understand which sauna lining is best, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those that are recommended by professionals.

The lining of the bathhouse can be made of deciduous and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Linden lining for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are its ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, the undoubted argument in favor of linden lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, and beautiful colour and wood structure. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft, and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining only becomes stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for the lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it begins to darken. And popular belief says that aspen stretches negative energy from a person.

Alder paneling for a bathhouse

In third place was the alder paneling. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this species is hygroscopic and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. However, the high cost prevents its widespread adoption.

Note. Lining made from linden, aspen, and alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length is up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bathhouse and making material calculations.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult material to process is oak lining for baths. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

The situation is similar with ash paneling - very expensive and rare lumber for lining a bathhouse.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Coniferous species are rarely used in steam rooms. Because the resin that the lining releases softwood(pine, spruce), makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by such indicators as moisture resistance and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not require additional processing (except for de-resining). Often the pleasant pine aroma also becomes an argument in favor of pine lining.

Do-it-yourself lining of a bathhouse with clapboard inside

Ways to fasten the lining

The first step is to choose a method for attaching the lining. There is no definite answer on how to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse, horizontally or vertically (lengthwise or across). Each master defends his point of view. But by summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the methods of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to its comparative simplicity, convenience and high speed work, and due to this, lower installation costs. Moisture (condensation) easily flows down vertically located lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up through the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

Vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the sheathing beam interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam mode.

Laying the clapboard crosswise has advantages due to the fact that the board is fastened with the tenon facing upward, which means that water ingress is just as unlikely as with a vertical one. When the lining is mounted horizontally, a vertical frame (lathing) is equipped, which promotes natural air circulation between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of horizontal laying of lining in a bathhouse (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bathhouse is not just a damp place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to faster rotting than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all the vertical ones. In addition, drying out from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of attaching the lining is best chosen by those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the above, everyone can decide for themselves how to attach the lining in the bathhouse - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard involves installing lathing. This is due to the fact that the presence of lathing makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensation drains, and the likelihood of the lining rotting and the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The lathing for the bathhouse lining is made only from timber, which is coated with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

Lathing in the bathhouse makes it possible to organize electrical wiring in the steam room. For example, under lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of a bathhouse consists of several layers. Insulation in this damp room requires special fastening.

First, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or secured with sheathing slats.

Cotton wool is placed between the beams of the sheathing. By the way, it was cut with an overlap of 10 mm. The cotton wool will settle tightly between the frame beams and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is placed on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is stapled to the sheathing beams.

The film is laid overlapping and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats, the so-called counter slats, are stuffed. For counter-railing, boards up to 20 mm thick are used. The purpose of the counter-rail is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for proper functioning is ventilation in the bathhouse.

Therefore, when installing the sheathing and laying insulation, do not forget to mark the location for the ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bathhouse you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Place ventilation holes needed in accessible places to be able to regulate the air flow.

Only non-flammable materials are used in the sauna. thermal insulation material. That is why the use of foam plastic is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in a steam room

Fastening the lining in the bathhouse is done exclusively using a hidden method. Experts explain this by three factors:

Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting discomfort when touching the attachment point.

Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the surface of the lining.

Thirdly, such fastening looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be additionally noted that the self-tapping screw can be screwed onto the front side of the board, but it must be covered with a wooden plug.

This method is quite labor-intensive, so users are advised to fasten the wooden paneling with their own hands using nails and clamps.

How to cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard

The decoration of the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bathhouse, begins from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall slats must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the entrance side and is carried out only with nails or a clamp. And it's not even a matter of visual effect, but that the finishing nail is not able to support the weight of the ceiling made of lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the clamp or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, use a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a head. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished off with a hammer. And the place where the nail is installed is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, splinters.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bathhouse. This is due to the fact that the temperature under the ceiling is higher and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation along the wall.

How to cover walls in a bathhouse with clapboard

Decorating the walls with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented in the same way as installing clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be taken into account that water can rise up the wood to a height of up to half a meter when mounted vertically and half as low when mounted horizontally. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the slats of wooden lining until they stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. Wood swells and shrinks due to humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood.

Consequences improper fastening(deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Installing lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you maintain the joining of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards are adjacent to the ceiling.

Fastening skirting boards for lining and decorative elements

Skirting boards, corners, and other accessories for finishing the sauna cannot be “set” on glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by sanding the installation site.

How to cover a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished using lining, cut to the required length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe slopes on windows with clapboard

They are rarely installed directly into paired windows; more often they are installed in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it won’t hurt to know how to make slopes from clapboard.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using a starting strip for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the plank at one end, and attached to the sheathing beam with the other. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in a bathhouse. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, cover it with clapboard and then decorate the junction of the clapboard with the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in their bathhouse.

If the wall thickness is small and the slope is not wide, then you can line it with a wooden lining for lining.

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Finishing the washing room in the bathhouse with clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards when laid vertically must be at a distance of at least 30 mm. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior decoration of washrooms. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term use of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to cover a bathhouse dressing room with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after a steam bath. In more modern versions The bathhouse dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and equipment are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining is no different.

Due to flammability, the lining is not installed near the furnace firebox. It is better to decorate the fireplace with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that the chimney pipe is also not allowed to join the lining on the ceiling. Therefore, a screen made of of stainless steel. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where the traditional Russian bath stones are stacked) is not only possible, but also necessary. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, wood trim heaters will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in individual rooms of the bathhouse, you know how to attach the lining in the bathhouse correctly. This means there are no obstacles to finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboards yourself.

The bathhouse is an amazing place to relax and recuperate. Therefore, it should not only be hot, but also comfortable. Every owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up a house, the interior decoration of which is no less important a stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then this article will be useful to you. Here you will also find professional instructions for different types finishing, and step by step photos important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your problems at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of construction technologies when performing cladding, cladding, etc.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bathhouse, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bathhouse and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bathhouse requires the presence of several rooms:

vestibule;
steam room;
washing room

If you have built a large bathhouse, then it is quite possible to equip it with an additional recreation room, a billiard room, kitchen area, playground, swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bathhouse, equipped with everything that seems necessary and useful to you. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for a bath:

all premises should have an attractive and practical design;
the steam room should have hot and pleasant steam;
the washing room should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a great influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior finishing, it still needs to be done in the bathhouse. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for comfortable rest, and will also significantly extend the service life of walls, floors, and ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. Read below about how best to finish a steam room, washing room, vestibule.

When planning the decoration of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

The constant presence of heated steam flowing in a concentrated and dense stream;
Temperature changes, heating to high temperatures;
High level humidity.

The conditions in the steam room can be said to be extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern wide range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

Low heat capacity, ability to warm up quickly and not accumulate heat;
Moisture resistance;
High aesthetic characteristics;
Pleasant smell, no resins when heated;
Resistance to fungus and mold;
Air purification.

Today there are several classes of lining:

C-class. It is characterized by low cost. But its characteristics are not high enough for finishing a bath.
B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which there are no more than four knots for every 1.5 m of length;
A-class. Shallow cracks may be present. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m length is allowed on each panel.
Premium class. Highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, there are no cores or knots.

The most common profiles are eurolining, tongue-and-groove, Softline, Shtil.

Excellent results Linden lining is used as interior decoration for a bathhouse. Its density is quite low, so it does not heat up very much in a steam room. At the same time, it does not release resins. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

Lining made from other types of wood is also suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing a particular material for cladding, carefully inspect the panels. The tree must be dry, high-quality processing, it should not have nicks, knots or other obvious defects. High-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

The material for covering the steam room does not require additional treatment with special means. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before you start covering it with clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. She is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last slightly longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then we cannot help but recall cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, and fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is intended not only to take a shower and wash properly at a comfortable temperature. The washing room should have a place to relax so that you can leave the steam room for a while and pamper yourself with a massage, face and body masks and other relaxing and pleasant treatments. It is necessary to think through all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be made taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If you can choose among deciduous wood for the steam room, then only coniferous wood is suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very simple to explain this choice. Coniferous wood is resinous and has high water-repellent properties. Therefore, in washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood and will last for many years, maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of materials for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are: comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, place on the ceramic floor wooden pallets or removable logs. After each visit to the bathhouse, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washing room can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. It copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all rooms of the bathhouse. This most important aspect, which must be taken into account when choosing Decoration Materials. Any type of wood can be used for vestibules and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. For high-quality and stylish finishing of vestibules, rest rooms and others bath rooms Other materials are also suitable:

Porcelain tiles;
Plaster;
Natural stone;
Fiberglass wallpaper;
Majolica.

Wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical finishing Bathrooms offer various combinations of these materials. For example, the combination looks very solid and beautiful natural stone and wood. A do-it-yourself bathhouse will allow you to turn your non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, photos of which are presented on this page, will help you choose optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand high temperature loads, and also cope well with streams of hot, humid steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them airtight, their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. When exposed to high temperatures, this material releases substances that are toxic to humans and is therefore unsuitable for use in bathhouses.

Each joint between the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is taped with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole should be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

Two-millimeter stainless steel sheet;
Galvanized box;
Tie clamp.

The ceiling is cut mainly to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling. In addition, in this way, the chimney elements receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A stainless steel sheet 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, on the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is covered with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the service life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and steel sheet have found their places, inner part the box is insulated and filled with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the box contour.

Steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention instructions that will help you cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

The ceiling is lathed with 2x4 cm slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps 10 mm.
Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
Fastening the panels begins from one of the walls. The first plank is aligned with the groove facing outwards. The tenon of another panel is driven into it. The order of connecting the tenon and groove can be changed, it is not important.

When performing sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material carefully and carefully without damaging it.

Using special clamps, secure the planks. The clamps are attached to the rail with screws or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.
There should be gaps of up to 2.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask gaps, just nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with nails with inconspicuous heads. Such nails must be driven in at an angle, and the head must be firmly driven into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing must be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel a level check is required. If you don’t have a level at hand, you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be tamped so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out uneven and sloppy. Tapping is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness using another method. The wooden overlay is fixed and sharp wood chips are driven under it.

The only material suitable for covering walls in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and rest room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.

Cladding walls with clapboard

According to the main parameters, wall covering with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling finishing.

The first stage is to stuff thick timber along the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step – 80-100 cm.
You need to put insulation in the recesses between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. There is no need to compact the insulation.

Note! All work with mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulating corner joints.

Remember to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the spacer. The sheathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the sheathing must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, slats for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal slats, string can be stretched between the vertical slats near the ceiling and floor.

Separate bars need to separate the door area and the window;
Now you can proceed directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls without getting stuck in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the tenon of the panel should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and remain in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by attaching the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you use screws or nails, insert them at an angle, driving the heads deep into the wood. There should be ventilation gaps of about 2 cm between the ceiling and the casing, the floor and the casing.

A common problem that people encounter when cladding bathhouse walls on their own is the need to cut the material. This is not difficult to do. You can cut the paneling with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is trimmed to the right size and is fixed to the sheathing. Next wall starts with the panel from which the ridge is cut. It should fit snugly against the last batten of the previous wall. In the corners, elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angles before cutting the strip or panel. Draw a pencil line on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints left in the corners of the panels.

The most important point when performing finishing work inside the bathhouse, this is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. If the stove is located close to the wall, the mineralite should be laid in two layers. If there is at least 40 cm between the stove and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
Solid red brick. They need to lay the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tile - best option for finishing all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Considering modern variety models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the actual execution of work.

Preparatory stage

Preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists of removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparation wooden walls consists of performing waterproofing. Using a construction stapler, roofing felt and roofing felt are nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which the concrete mortar.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail down an even beam. It will become the basis for finishing. Instead of timber, it will also do metallic profile. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal ones, use a building level. For vertical ones, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in a bathhouse

You can prepare the mortar for fixing the tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy ready mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles indoors high humidity and with temperature changes. Before laying, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will stick to the mortar much better.

Work starts from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially carefully, because it is this that determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the neatness of the entire cladding.

The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the glue protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber hammer.

It is important to maintain equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you have laid adjacent rows, secure special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will allow you to maintain the same gap both in length and height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After this, you can remove the level and grind the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving them a final aesthetic appearance. appearance.

By using ceramic tiles You can realize your wildest creative fantasies. You can lay it flat, diagonally, offset, or patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or design, then it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where each tile should be located. This will allow you to flawlessly complete the cladding and give your bathhouse a truly original and unique look.

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bathhouse is finishing with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design that is environmentally friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will also work.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

The mastic is spread thickly on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than regular ceramic tiles;
We apply the slab to the wall, press it down and level it;
We continue to work in the same order with the remaining slabs;
To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
10 hours after installation is completed, you can begin processing the seams. It is made with heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until the consistency of sour cream.
Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
The grout is applied using a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not get on the slabs themselves or other surfaces.

Working with a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over larger area. It's better to wait a little until the grout dries. This way you can carefully scrape it off.

The direction of grout application can be any;
Two hours later, you can move on to jointing, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
After this, you need to walk along the seams with a finger wearing a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bathhouse does not require additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying begins from one of the corners. In this case, perfect evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bathhouse is sloping towards the drain. But it’s still worth marking the approximate location of the tiles on the floor level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
Using the teeth of a spatula, a pattern is imprinted on the solution, which ensures it reliable connection with tiles;
The tiles are being laid out. During operation, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget to form a slope! The tiles for the first row must be dry. It is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
Corner elements are cut to required sizes using a tile cutter;