How to make grout joints smooth. Grouting ceramic tiles: let's figure out what and how to grout the seams correctly. Technology of applying grout to tiles

Grouting is The final stage when laying tiles, it cannot be neglected. This process is necessary to prevent the penetration of moisture, dirt, and dust into the joint gaps. Correctly applied grout will not allow the glue to deteriorate and will prevent the formation of mold.

From an aesthetic point of view, grouting gives a finished look to the entire surface. And according to the chosen design project, it can be chosen in the same shade as the tile or played in contrast. Correctly selected material extends the service life of the repaired surface.

Types of grout

The main rule is that it doesn’t matter what types of tiles the grout is purchased for, it should not be the cheapest and preferably from well-known manufacturers. If you save money, then after a short time the seams will begin to crumble and crack, and then even elite designer ceramics will look careless.

There are two types of grout:

• based on cement with mineral and plasticizing additives, produced in dry form;
• based on resins, available in liquid form. Some of them are ready for use immediately, others add hardeners.

Each of these types has additional subgroups. It is they who are guided by when purchasing material.

Cement

Depending on the additives, these grouts are divided into cement-sand and cement-polymer. Their purpose is for seams of about 6 mm, but if desired, wider gaps can be sealed.

Pros:

1. 1. Increased strength.
2. 2. Easy to use, can be used even by inexperienced craftsmen.
3. 3. Requires an additional period for setting. This time is enough to correct all mistakes and shortcomings.
4. 4. If the material is cracked for some reason, restoration is not a problem.
5. 5. Budget price.

Minuses:

1. 1. They absorb moisture and are not recommended for use in the kitchen and bathroom.
2. 2. The color scheme is not varied.
3. 3. When dry, they shrink.
4. 4. It takes a long time to harden.

Low moisture resistance is increased by adding liquid latex and antiseptic to the mixture.

Epoxy

These two-component mixtures consist of curable resins and fine aggregate. The latter is sand that has been pre-painted. It will strengthen the seam and add decorativeness.

Before use, a hardener is introduced into the epoxy mass, after which the material quickly becomes similar in consistency to a plastic, waterproof, dense substance. This grout is used not only in bathrooms and kitchens, but also in swimming pools and baths.

Pros:

1. 1. Waterproof and elastic.
2. 2. The surface is non-porous, so fine dust and dirt will not penetrate into the seams.
3. 3. Not subject to aggressive chemical exposure, detergents and abrasives.
4. 4. Resistant to large temperature changes from -20 to +110 degrees.
5. 5. Service life without loss of functionality and color retention for up to 50 years.
6. 6. The color range is not limited to the usual shades - the grout can be luminescent, neon, metallic, or chameleon.

Minuses:

1. 1. Dries very quickly, therefore, when applying, a certain speed of work is required. It will be difficult for a beginner to use this material.
2. 2. Difficult to remove from tiled surfaces.
3. 3. The cost is higher than cement ones.
4. 4. The composition contains a large amount of sand, so the seams between the tiles are rough, animal hair, hair, etc. cling to them.

It is possible to use epoxy grout with virtually no restrictions: in residential and damp rooms, on the street, etc. But if the master does not have enough practical experience, not only the grout mass will be ruined, but also the tile material.

Polyurethane

The grout is an elastic, water-repellent mass designed for grouting joints up to 6 mm. Ideal for ceramic tiles on a moving base. Possessing elasticity, it will not crack or crumble, even if for some reason the tile “floats”.

Pros:

1. 1. It has water-repellent properties; dust and dirt do not penetrate into it.
2. 2. Can be applied even to very thin, about 1 mm seams.
3. 3. Completely ready for application, no need to add anything.
4. 4. Hardening takes time, which means there is an opportunity to correct defects.
5. 5. Excellent removal from tile surfaces.

There is only one minus - it is destroyed by exposure to chlorine.

Latex

Water-repellent properties are above average, used for tile joints about 3 mm wide. IN pure form are practically not used, because they have a high cost. They are added to cement compositions or used as a top protective layer for already worn joints.

Pros:

1. 1. High elasticity.
2. 2. Increased resistance to moisture, cracking, etc.
3. 3. Suitable for seams of any width.
4. 4. Wide selection of decorative colors.

Minuses:

1. 1. High cost.
2. 2. They require immediate removal of excess from the tiles, otherwise cloudy, irremovable stains will remain on it.
3. 3. Do not steam clean.

Latex grouts withstand compression and bending well. They are durable, do not react to temperatures (both high and low), and retain color pigmentation unchanged throughout their service life.

Furanic

The grouting mass is a mixture of an epoxy base with the addition of a hardening resin and latex (Portland cement), which ensures the strength of the joints.

Pros:

1. 1. Waterproof.
2. 2. The joint between the slabs acquires exceptional strength.
3. 3. Resistant to household chemicals, UV radiation and various acids.
4. 4. Elastic and not subject to destruction over time.

Minuses:

1. 1. It is almost impossible to find such material for seams on the open market.
2. 2. The tint palette is presented only in black.
3. 3. Not used in residential premises. Used on building facades and inside industrial facilities.

Despite its own resistance to “chemicals” and acids, with separate elements reacts to release harmful compounds. Used outdoors only.

Grout "Cerizit"

A separate item stands out for the “Cerizit” grouting compound. It comes in 6 varieties:

• for seams up to 5 mm;
• for seams up to 15 mm;
• elastic, especially durable for seams from 5 to 20 mm;
• elastic for joints up to 10 mm;
• two-component, chemical-resistant;
• in the form of a sealant.

Apply "Cerizite" with a spatula or mounting gun, not forgetting to thoroughly clean the surface beforehand.

How to choose the right grout?

Selecting a grout for a specific room and a specific tile from all the available variety is not so easy. In some cases, the fugue (grout) serves not only to protect the seams and create a harmonious appearance, but also to eliminate some installation defects.

Purpose

Each of the presented types of grout has its own purpose. If the surface is dry and only needs a damp, light cleaning ( tiled wall in the toilet, kitchen), then the seams are sealed with a cement composition.

Bathroom walls that are in an atmosphere of high humidity and regularly filled with water, as well as tiles in showers, saunas, and swimming pools, are rubbed down with polyurethane and epoxy. If you have to grout tiles in the bathroom that are not in direct contact with water, we can use both PU and latex.

When choosing grout for the floor, you need to proceed from the material of the floor tiles. Porcelain tiles are not grouted with cement; in this case, an epoxy composition is more suitable. In wet areas use PU. When laying the coating on a “warm floor” system, the grout is chosen to be moisture-resistant, dust- and dirt-repellent.

Seam parameters

Fugue packaging from a reliable manufacturer always contains information about the minimum and maximum joint width for which the mixture is applicable. This is one of the main guidelines for purchasing. Additionally, use the following recommendations:

1. 1. For narrow joints up to 3 mm, purchase plastic grout that does not have mineral additives.
2. 2. Gaps up to 6 mm are filled with material containing fine sand.
3. 3. Large joints up to 20 mm must be grouted with compounds with increased elastic properties or a plasticized cement-based joint with the addition of coarse filler.

Which grout is suitable for which tiles?

The function of the grout is not only to fill the seams, but also to glue the ends of the tiles to each other. Therefore, when choosing a material, the structure of the material is additionally taken into account:

1. 1. Tiles with a glazed surface, decorated with patterns or auxiliary elements, are not rubbed with mixtures containing abrasive particles. Use PU or latex.
2. 2. The seams of glass tiles or mosaics are filled with decorative epoxy.
3. 3. When finishing the surface with ceramics with a textured and porous structure, liquid materials are not used. Cement-based grouts are suitable.

Color selection

The color of the grout joints determines the final appearance of the tiled surface. This is a decorative detail and from the right choice depends on the interior component of the room. They choose according to their taste preferences (either “in the color of the tile” or in contrast). But it’s worth considering the advice of professionals:

1. 1. Making light seams means unifying the pattern and visually enlarging the room.
2. 2. Dark joints will emphasize the texture and highlight every detail in the overall design.
3. 3. Plain tiles are grouted with a color either in contrast or in tone decorative elements, or a little darker/lighter from the main color of the coating.
4. 4. Multi-colored complex panels are treated with transparent silicone compounds or “chameleon” shades.
5. 5. The mixture for the floor is chosen darker; light colors are difficult to wash to its original state.
6. 6. Choosing the right metallic colors is very difficult. They are bought only if the general interior style allows it.

Manufacturers offer many original color solutions– pearlescent, silver, golden, glow-in-the-dark, bright “acid” shades, etc. When you are going to buy grout, you can take several individual tiles to the store and visually make sure that you have made the right choice.

What materials are needed for grouting joints?

In order to grout seams quickly and efficiently, tools and materials are prepared in advance, since some types of mixtures do not tolerate delay and set very quickly. Required:

• small spatula;
• rubber spatula;
• sponge;
• attachment for a drill (mixer), if the mixture has to be mixed with fillers;
• drill;
• bucket;
• water;
• the mixture itself;
• sanitary sealant.

Each package containing the composition indicates the hardening time of the finished solution. When performing work, dilute exactly as much grout as will be used during this time.

Instructions for performing troweling work

All grouting work is carried out in strict sequence:

• filling voids with the selected solution;
• creating a seam line;
• surface cleaning.

It is important to thoroughly clean the surface from dirt, dust and tile adhesive residue. The parts of the tiles bordering the area where the composition is applied are sealed with masking tape.

Preparation of the solution

An important step in preparation grout mixture is to determine its quantity. This is done based on the width of the seams and the total surface area. The manufacturer indicates the consumption value on the packaging, but during the installation process it may require slightly more than the nominal value. The mixture should be purchased with a reserve.

In order to dilute the fugu, it is added to water in small portions and mixed with a drill with a specific mixing attachment. The finished grout is always slightly different from the wet mortar.

Grouting process

Having cleaned the surface and prepared it, begin the application process. Proper execution DIY works:

1. 1. Use a spray to moisten the surface of the slabs.
2. 2. Using a small spatula, apply grout onto a rubber spatula, spreading it along its length.
3. 3. Fill the seams evenly. If a mosaic is processed, then the application is carried out over the entire area. When grouting large tiles Only the joint area is subject to finishing.
4. 4. The grout trowel is positioned at an angle of 30 degrees in relation to the tiles and at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the joints.
5. 5. The seams are filled completely, otherwise after drying the solution will fail, voids will appear, and the edges will open. All this will not only spoil the aesthetics of the installation, but will also reduce its durability.
6. 6. In order for the solution to harden more slowly, it is moistened with a spray and mixed.
7. 7. 5 minutes after application, wipe off the excess from the tiles with a damp sponge.

It is important to protect the tile itself from excess mixture. This saves both the amount of solution and the time spent on cleaning the surface.

How to remove excess solution?

The process of removing grout from tiles is not difficult, but it requires patience, time and accuracy. The cleaning method depends on the composition of the solution used to fill the joints. Namely:

1. 1. A simple cement-based mixture is wiped off with a thick cloth moistened with water. If time is lost and the composition is slightly dry, additionally use a scraper or brush with polymer bristles. You cannot use metal objects for tiles (of any material).
2. 2. The already “set” mass is cleaned with special solutions containing acids. Work exclusively with gloves with access fresh air(open doors and windows) to quickly remove harmful fumes.
3. 3. Acid solutions are applied to the tiles and left for 5 minutes. Using a cloth, pressing lightly, wipe off the grout in a circular motion. Wash with plenty of clean water. If you can’t clean it the first time, carry out 3 more cleanings, one per day.
4. 4. Products with acid are used exclusively on ceramics, porcelain stoneware, stone (except marble and limestone). They clean not only the grout, but also tile adhesive, lime, various industrial salts, and mortars.
5. 5. If it is impossible to remove the fugu with acids, this is done mechanically. Use a drill and a diamond-coated disk attachment. The test is carried out in an inconspicuous place. If cleaning does not damage the tile surface, work continues.

Freshly applied cement composition is cleaned off with diluted lemon juice or vinegar mixed with baking soda. Delete old grout To re-apply a new one, it is best to use a Dremel tool. If it is not available, use a drill or screwdriver.

Cracking of the applied solution - how to avoid?

Even if the grout was purchased from a trusted manufacturer, over time it can become damaged and crack. This happens for the following reasons:

1. 1. The solution is diluted with too much water. After it evaporates, the volume of the grout decreases and it “dries out.”
2. 2. The porous tile material absorbs water from the mortar.
3. 3. The craftsman did not level the surface before gluing the tiles, the elements begin to “walk”, and the grout cracks.
4. 4. Not complied with temperature regime. The tiles are not grouted during temperature changes and high humidity.
5. 5. The grout is chosen incorrectly. Its properties do not correspond to the task.

To prevent this from happening, additional nuances are taken into account:

• when mixing the solution with a drill, operate at low speeds;
• Be sure to pre-prepare the surface for applying tiles;
• if the grout has absorbent properties, moisten all joints and tile edges with a spray bottle;
• The seams are drying naturally, you cannot speed up the process with a heater or hair dryer.

You can grout joints between tiles without any experience. The main thing is to prepare the composition of the desired consistency. Dexterity in using a spatula will appear after 10 minutes of work, and a little later the master will easily determine how much mortar to put on the seam.

Now you can proceed to the final stage - grouting the joints and treating them with sealant. A well-made grout can mask existing installation defects, while a poorly done grout can completely destroy the impression of a flawless installation.

First check that the adhesive on which you laid the tiles is completely dry and thoroughly clean the seams from debris and dirt. Remove any spacers (crosses) left between the tiles after installation. Some manufacturers of dividers state that they can be left in the seams and covered with grout. But in this case, the layer of grout above the dividers will be thinner, so it will have a different color after it hardens and can ruin appearance all the grout.

If you are working with glazed tiles, you can immediately start grouting the joints. If you are laying unglazed tiles, you should first dampen the top and sides of each tile to prevent too much moisture from being sucked out of the grout. Some tile installers use garden sprinklers to spray water over the surface of the tiles.

Regardless of which method you choose, the main thing is not to overdo it. Puddles of water left on the tiles or in the grout can damage the grout, which can then crack. (To avoid doubts about carrying out such preparation of tiles and joints, it is better to consult with the grout manufacturer).

Types of grouting materials

There are 2 main types of grout: cement-based and cement-based. epoxy resin.

Advice: when choosing, do not confuse grouting materials with elastomer sealing compounds that are used in construction - they fill the joints between different building materials. Such seals include silicone seals.

The store will tell you that it is actually used for tiles, and they will be right. Just don’t use silicone sealant to fill the seams between the tiles. It is designed to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. It is sometimes used to fill joints, but it is best to avoid this.

Cement-based grouts are a dry mixture that is diluted with water or liquid latex. Ready-made grouts are also sold, but they usually cost much more. Cement-based grouts are usually made from cement and differ only depending on the additives that are included in their composition. All of them can be divided into 3 classes: industrial cement, dry hardener and latex mixture.

Epoxy grout contains epoxy resin and hardener, which make the joints impact-resistant and resistant to various chemicals. This type of grout is the most expensive, and therefore is mainly used in industrial and commercial premises. In addition, epoxy grout is viscous and quite difficult to work with. If your tiles are no more than 12 mm thick and the joints are less than 6 mm wide, then such grout will not be able to penetrate such narrow joints.

Color selection

When choosing a grout color, rely not only on quality, but also on your aesthetic preferences and tastes. It is best to choose colored grout from the same store where you buy the tiles. Since the “random” buying method does not always meet your expectations of the final result.

Having looked at all possible combinations of finishing options, you can (and even need to) visually transfer this to your surface. It should be remembered that various color combinations affect the perception of the entire pattern. For example, light grout on a dark background (or vice versa) creates more geometrically contrasting patterns in your composition.

This approach emphasizes the merits of each tile. By the way, playing with contrast goes well with mosaics and small tiles. But if you decide to purchase a mosaic panel or photo tile, it is recommended to select a color that matches the cladding.

You can also achieve the color you want by adding dyes to the original white or colored grout yourself. It's difficult, but possible. But here, of course, you can’t do without a bit of luck and risk. As a result, the color may not be very bright, sometimes even unpredictable and less resistant to fading.

In the event that it is difficult for you to choose or make suitable color, then you can’t go wrong by choosing white grout. This is a classic option. Almost perfect for most ceramic tiles. In damp rooms it must be moisture resistant. Additionally, the seams can be treated with a special protective agent to prevent darkening.

But for the floors White color may turn out to be too easily soiled. And after a short period of time it will look dirty. Here you can get by with gray grout, similar in color to cement.

What is sealant used for?

The use of sealant serves 2 purposes:

• it protects ceramic tiles from stains appearing on them and in the joints
• it protects the tiles and grouts to a certain extent from excessive water absorption

To prevent stains from appearing on the surface of unglazed tiles and on the seams, it is necessary to cover the cladding with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are made from silicone, varnish or acrylic. When choosing the right sealant, you need to consider the types of tile and grout, as well as the location where the tiling is being done.

Now let's learn how to grout joints, apply grout and sealant. In addition, always follow the directions of the manufacturer of the product you choose.

Planned time costs: Depends on the size of the area; It takes about 3 weeks until the grout dries completely.
Planned cost of funds: 30-50 dollars.
Initial tips: Consult with the seller regarding the selection of the most suitable grout.
Safety Tips: Cement-based grout can cause inflammation of the eyes, skin and lungs. When working with them, use a respirator, safety glasses and rubber gloves.

Width of grout joints

The width of the grout joint is partly a matter of personal preference; some people like narrow joints, for example. Too wide seams seem to visually suppress the tiles. Square tiles sizes 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and even 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm seams. Irregular tile shapes are less noticeable with wider joints, but try to keep them no more than 12mm wide. The fact is that the wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack.

A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will be more durable if sand is added to the grout. large size particles, but this does not always help protect a wide seam from cracking. (Another reason why grout can crack and crumble is if there is too much liquid when mixing the grout).

Equally, you should not make the grout joints very narrow, because it will be difficult to fill them with grout properly, and as a result, water will seep through such joints into the cladding. Many craftsmen feel more confident that the quality of the cladding will be at the proper level if the seams are wide enough to be filled with latex or acrylic grout, as a result of which the seams will not only become waterproof, but can also serve as shock absorbers during compression and expansion of tiles. This ability of seams becomes negligible when the seam width is less than 1 mm.

Grouting tiles

The grouting process includes several stages:

• Mixing grout
• Keeping the solution for better wetting
• Re-mixing the grout
• Solution distribution
• Cleaning up excess grout

Tools and materials needed to apply grout:

• Respirator (for working with grout containing cement)
• Latex gloves
• Protective glasses
• Rubber scraper or roller
• Grout
• Bucket
• Sponge
• A jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or a toothbrush
• Clean cloth
• Plywood
• Sealant
• Paint roller or small paint brush

Applying grout

First, spread a mound of grout onto the surface of the tiles (you can simply pour the grout out of a bucket if you are working on the floor, or scoop the grout with a square trowel for applying it to the walls).

In order to distribute the grout, a grout float (in the appropriate version for floors or walls) is more suitable than a steel trowel.

Hold it at a 30-degree angle to the tile (as shown in the photo) and apply grout diagonally to the surface of the tile (as shown in the photo). Run the float over the entire surface two or three times, but don’t just cover the seams with grout, but try to rub it in, press it firmly into the seam so that it is tightly filled with grout.

The stronger the resistance, the more densely the seam is filled and the stronger it will be. The main idea is to fill all the corners and voids around the tiles that remain after applying the adhesive to the top with grout. During the grouting process, the liquid will leave the grouting solution, and the seams will be filled with particles of sand and cement - one might say, it will turn out solid instead of liquid cement paste.

Do not grout the entire surface at once; it is better to first distribute the grout over a small area of ​​about one or two square meters. meters until you figure out how quickly the grout sets. So, if you find yourself working with grout that sets quickly, you will need to stop and clean up.

Sometimes it is possible to immediately wipe about 9 square meters. meters before you start cleaning it; in other cases, only a small area can be covered with grout. Working in a small area will help you determine the speed at which you should work.

Using a grout bag

If you are working on a surface that is particularly difficult to clean once grouted, such as an antique brick cladding, use a grout bag to fill the joints. This bag looks and acts just like pastry bag for finishing cakes. A metal tip approximately the same width as the grout joint is attached to the end of the bag. The bag is filled with grout, and then it is squeezed out with force through the tip into the seam.

When working with a grout bag, place the tip of the bag at the top of the joint and slide it forward along the edge of the joint as you fill it. For best results, grout the entire length of the grout rather than around individual tiles. Usually, all horizontal seams (along the x-axis) are filled first, and then the vertical ones (along the y-axis).

You should squeeze out a little more grout than seems necessary. After it has set slightly, tamp the grout into the joint using a jointer or a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the joints being filled. Then let the grout pressed into the joint set for half an hour, after which remove the excess with a stiff brush.

Removing grout

The first removal of excess grout is dry. When all the joints are filled, to remove excess grout you will need a float, which should be held at almost right angles to the surface of the tiles (as shown in the picture). In this case, it is necessary to move the trowel diagonally relative to the seams, otherwise the edge of the tool may get into the seam and remove part of the grout from it (if this happens, just add a little grout to the seam and level the surface of the seam with the edge of the trowel).

Once the excess has been removed, allow the grout to set before cleaning. While you're grouting and cleaning, you'll want to remember to stir the grout in the bucket occasionally to keep it soft before applying it to new areas.

The second grout removal is wet. When should I start? After dry cleaning with the edge of a float (which removes the bulk of excess grout from the surface of the tiles), each cladding requires wet cleaning to one degree or another. The time it takes for grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly from installation to installation.

It may be 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of liquid from grout is affected by weather, type of base, adhesive and tile.

Keep in mind that grout residue on the tile surface may set fairly quickly, although grout may take longer to set in the joints. You can use a sponge to assess the readiness of the surface of tiles and grout joints for cleaning: wet the sponge as much as possible, and then test small plot cladding surfaces. The grout in the seams should be elastic and dense, but not hard.

If the grout sets too tightly, the tiles will have to be difficult to clean, which can damage the seams. On the other hand, if the grout is pulled from the joints behind the sponge, this means that the grout has not set sufficiently. Wait a few minutes and check again. Cleaning can begin when the grout in the joints remains in place.

If it turns out that too much time has passed before you start cleaning, and the grout has dried to the surface of the tile, you can remove it using a special abrasive float. (Unlike other scouring floats, this float does not leave scratches on the surface of the tiles - to be sure, test on a piece of tile first). After cleaning the dried grout residue, go over the entire surface with a well-wrung out sponge.

There are many tricks for cleaning grout, some of them quite unusual. For example, some tilers pour dry grout over the joints (so that the wet grout in the joints dries faster). Others use sawdust so that it will draw out excess moisture so that excess grout can be easily removed. Many of these methods weaken and thereby destroy grout joints, so we do not recommend their use.

It is better to use a combination of proven techniques that is suitable for both commercial and residential cladding. The main principle of this method is to use a minimum of water during cleaning so as not to weaken the grout.

Start of wet cleaning

All you need is a bucket of clean water and a sponge (it is better to take a sponge with rounded edges, this will prevent grooves from forming in the grout joints).

First, use a sponge to quickly remove most of the excess grout. Begin cleaning the grout from the surface of the tiles using a gentle, circular wiping motion to remove sand and cement particles.

Be careful not to create grooves in the grout joints. Rinse the sponge as soon as the pores of the sponge are filled with particles of cement and sand, and then wring it out well. If not too much time has passed before you start cleaning, you can remove excess grout from the surface of the tiles in two or three passes.

Clean only a small area at a time (1-2 square meters in size), wetting the sponge frequently to wash away any grout particles that have penetrated the pores of the tiles. When you rinse the sponge, always try to rinse as well as possible and squeeze as hard as possible to ensure that any grout particles that were in the pores of the tile are washed away. Be sure to shake off excess water from your hands.

If the cladding is no larger than 9 square meters. meters, there is no need to change the rinsing water in the bucket. You can judge by the purity of the water how well the tiles have been washed (of course, some commercial projects require constant water changes).

At the second stage, you need to inspect the grout joints to see if they are all neat. Level and smooth the seams using a jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. Then smooth the edges of the seams with a sponge. Move the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing any ridges and filling any gaps with a small amount of grout using your fingertip (wear tight rubber gloves to do this).

The actual joint size depends on the type of tile used and the industrial or artisanal finish of the top edge of the tile. If the edges of the tile are sharp and straight, the grout in the joints should be flat, flush with the top edge of the tile. If the top edge of the tile is rounded, the tiler must decide how high the joint should be.

Whatever height is chosen, ideally the seam should be smooth on top, not convex, although most of the seams then become slightly concave, which is quite acceptable. It is very important to give all seams the same shape and depth.

At the end, a final thorough cleaning of the surface of the tiles from grout residues is done. As soon as the seams in the cladding are leveled, the surface of the tiles should be thoroughly cleaned again. First, rinse and wring out the sponge well. Then make a straight, vertical pass about a meter long with one side of the sponge, moving it slowly towards you - slower than seems necessary - and without stopping (if you move the sponge quickly or intermittently, you will leave grout streaks on the surface of the tiles).

After the first pass, turn the sponge over to the clean side and make a similar pass parallel to the first, then stop and rinse the sponge. For one pass, use the freshly washed side of the sponge. Continue this process until the entire area of ​​the cladding is completely cleaned, trying to act carefully so that again the sponge does not pull the grout out of the joints.

If this happens, it may mean that there is too much grout in the seams and the seams need to be trimmed, or there is too much water in the sponge. After such cleaning, all grout residues must be removed from the surface of the tiles, and the joints must be allowed to dry for 15 minutes.

During this pause, the moisture remaining on the tiles after cleaning evaporates and the cement particles that were in the water are deposited on the surface of the tiles. If the tiles are covered with a shiny glaze, and the corners are smooth and straight, then grout deposits can be easily removed by immediately wiping the surface with gauze or a soft, clean cloth. If the tile has a matte surface or rounded corners, then you may need another, additional pass with fresh water and a sponge.

If the grout residue is still difficult to clean, you may not have cleaned the surface well enough the first time. If adhesive remains on the surface of the tile, the latex or acrylic additives contained in it may be the reason why the grout has set more than usual.

However, whatever the reason, the longer the plaque remains on the tiles, the more difficult it is to remove. If you were unable to remove the residue using a damp abrasive float, you can try using a special solution to remove plaque, or, as a last resort, resort to acid cleaners.

If you decide to use special cleaners or acids, keep in mind that the grout needs to fully set before you use them. However, don't wait for the grout to fully set until the final cleaning step is completed - removing any traces of grout from the expansion joints.

Applying sealant

Once the grout has hardened, the tiles and joints can be sealed with sealant according to the manufacturer's instructions. Clean the tiles and grout thoroughly and let them dry for a few days. Then apply the sealant following the manufacturer's directions. If you will be sealing both tile and grout, use a paint roller.

If you will only be applying sealant to the seams, use a small brush. Remove any excess sealant that may accidentally end up on the tile surface immediately.

Maintaining your tiles with care sometimes requires that you seal the tiles with sealant every 2 years (sometimes more often if manufacturers require it). Anyway, if you notice. If the tiles become dirty more often and become more difficult to clean, then it is time to cover them with an additional layer of sealant, after thoroughly cleaning them.

End of work

Place a sheet of plywood on the floor and prohibit anyone from walking on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Be careful, some types of grout take up to two weeks to dry (check the manufacturer's instructions for the required time)

Do you know how to grout tiles correctly? What tools to use? How to breed?

Let's look for answers to the questions in order.

Preliminary fugue application

List of tools

• Rubber spatula
• Construction bag
• Piece of cable
• Capacity

Surface preparation

Before grouting tiles, you should prepare the surface. To do this, you need to clean the seams from debris: mortar residues, crosses.

Important! You should start grouting the tiles only at least 24 hours after laying the tiles.

Some manufacturers claim that their crosses do not need to be removed to adjust the seams between tiles. However, our experts assure that if you do not want the fugue to be two shades lighter in these places than in all areas, then you should still remove this element.

Fusion of seams

Before grouting the tiles, of course, you need to dilute the mixture itself.

Pressing the mixture into the seams

Advice! You need to dilute a small amount, not the entire package!

Of course, if you need to grout, then use a larger container than for grouting tiles on the walls.

Why? Let's explain!

It is best to grout tiles on walls with a small rubber spatula, which is used to apply the mixture directly into the joints. But in order to grout tiles on the floor, especially in large volumes, they often use a tool that resembles a “grater” for smoothing the concrete surface. Taking a sufficiently large amount of the mixture onto this spatula, the grout is applied to the tile itself, moving diagonally.

Important! At one time, the area should be 1-2 square meters; more than that at a time is not recommended, since the mixture itself may set, and then it will no longer be possible to carry out high-quality fuging.

However, the method using the above grater is a little poor quality, it is suitable, say, for the work of a master, but then, when you do everything with your own hands, it is better to use a rubber spatula in your apartment.

Why? Let's explain!

When applying grout to the joints with a rubber spatula, you will make sufficient effort to press the mixture. This effort is necessary to ensure that there are no voids when filling, only then will the grout fully justify its protective functions. Seam protection is an important step in laying the tile itself.

Remove excess mixture with a sponge

If the fugue is applied correctly, it will help you avoid many problems in the future. The grout itself does not allow water to pass through, and therefore the mortar on which the tiles are laid will not be subject to the destructive effects of moisture.

Also, if you decide to grout the tiles outside, say, on a terrace or in a gazebo, we recommend using mixtures for outdoor work. And here grouting tiles is a must!

If moisture gets into unprotected seams during the warm season and seeps under the tiles, then be prepared for next year completely re-lay the floor. Why? Yes because in winter time moisture turns into ice, which, as is known from physics lessons, not only has a significantly larger volume than water, but is also completely incompressible.

And as a result, tiles that were laid outside without grouting will simply either “break” from the inside or fall off.

Another way to grout tile is to use a mortar cone. The construction cone in its function resembles an ordinary baker's bag, inside of which cream is placed and, squeezing out, applied to the cake.

Cleaning the tiles

The principle of operation here is similar; a grouting mixture is placed inside the cone, which, under pressure, will be distributed along the seams.

Joining seams

So, grouting tiles is not that difficult. The next stage is unstitching.

To grout, some craftsmen go over the seams with a piece of cable of a suitable diameter; in this case, the excess grout will protrude onto the surface of the tile itself, and all the seams will be neat and equally filled.

However, this stage is not at all necessary, so it will be up to you to grout the tiles this way.

Cleaning tiles

After you have completed the grouting and grouting, you should immediately begin cleaning.

Why do we recommend doing it right away? Until the fugue has completely set, cleaning the tiles will not be as problematic as after the process is completed. Moreover, if your tiles have a porous, corrugated surface, you should remove the excess mixture right there, exactly when you begin to grout the tiles.

Use clean rags and a sponge for cleaning - after all, if your fugue is light in color, there is a possibility that you initial stage, while cleaning after repairs, unwittingly, pollute it.

So, you have learned not only to grout tiles, but also to unstitch seams, which is why, without putting things off, get to work!

21-01-2015

Ceramic tiles are one of the most commonly used finishing materials that can be used to cover walls or lay on the floor. Tile has many advantages, which ensure its popularity. This advantage can be called the aesthetics of the tiles. However, it is quite easy to ruin the appearance of the finish if you do not grout the joints carefully.

To properly grout, you need to correctly select materials, prepare work surface to applying them and sticking to them of a certain order work.

What material should I choose to grout tiles on the floor?

Mixtures used for filling joints are divided into several main categories, depending on the base:

• cement-sand;
• epoxy;
• epoxy-cement;
• polymer;
• polymer cement.

The first type of grout can be used if the room has a gentle atmosphere with moderate humidity. In addition, the tiles must be laid on a solid base (concrete or brick) without the risk of deformation. To produce such grout mixtures, white cement and clean fine-grained sand are used.

Polymer-cement grout mixtures are applicable under the same conditions as cement-sand mixtures. Their difference is the use of polymer additives in manufacturing, which give the composition moisture resistance and strength. Various types of grout are less likely to form in such grouts. minor defects, such as cracks.

Epoxy and epoxy-cement compounds are used to grout joints when external cladding. However, even with internal works their use is permissible. They tolerate any operating conditions and exposure well external environment. They are not afraid high humidity, neither a base prone to deformation, nor an aggressive environment. They are recommended to be used for grouting tile joints on bathroom floors, where humidity is very high and temperature changes are common.

For the manufacture of polymer compositions, silicone is used as a basis. Such mixtures are used when making “seamless” masonry with further polishing. These compositions are characterized by high elasticity, due to which they tolerate temperature changes well. Because of this, they are often used when grouting joints when laying tiles on a heated floor. This mixture is injected into the seam with a syringe.

The optimal material must be selected not only by composition, but also taking into account other factors:

• type facing tiles;
• compatibility with tile adhesive;
• operating conditions;
• seam widths;
• tile colors.

Return to contents

Rules for grouting joints

To grout floor tiles, you will need some tools. The main one is a rubber spatula 6-8 cm thick. But before you use it, you need to clean the space in the seams. There should be no dirt, dust, etc. left between the tiles. To do this, you can use a thin sharp awl. When performing this work, you need to be as careful as possible, since the hard part of the awl can damage the glaze of the tile. If you are planning to purchase a tool for the job, then it is most convenient to buy a special set that includes everything that may be useful for cleaning and rubbing the seams.

When each seam has been thoroughly cleaned, they should be washed with a damp sponge. There should not be even the slightest sign of tile adhesive between the tiles. If you managed to achieve this result, then you can proceed to preparing the grout mixture.

For indoors average size in most apartments 400-600 g of grout will be enough. Its consumption should be indicated in the instructions, so you can calculate how much material you will need. You can also find the proportions of water and powder in the instructions. It is best to dilute the mixture using a special paint mixer. This won't take much time. The density of the product should be the same as that of thick homemade sour cream. When the mixture reaches this consistency, you need to leave it to sit for 5 minutes, mix again, after which you can use it.

To make the grout adhere better, it is recommended to wet the seams before applying it on an area of ​​1-1.5 m². On average, it takes 15-20 minutes to mop 2-3 m² of floor. When this is done, you need to go over the seams with a slightly damp cloth to remove excess filler. This will ensure that the seams are filled to the same depth, and the surface of each will be even and smooth. When grouting, you should strive to ensure that the seams between the tiles are slightly recessed. This will highlight its geometry.

To form a seam, use a special spatula made of thick rubber. For these purposes, you can use not only a rubber cord, but also a piece of cable. It will take 10-12 hours for the grout to completely harden. After this, you need to wash the entire surface with a sponge, which will remove excess mixture. If you grout carefully, you should end up with an attractive floor surface.

Some forty years ago no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles had to be managed to get hold of, and it was not always possible to buy tiles of the same color. It was glued (precisely glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all imaginable and inconceivable ways. And what didn’t they add to glue mixture so that it stays in the chosen place! They glued it without seams, so no one needed grout.

But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas about beauty and practicality.

Peculiarities

Today, it is simply impossible to imagine well-laid tiles without grout. The technology of laying facing tiles in our time implies that seams are made between decorative elements. Seams are the space between the ends of two adjacent tiles that are not filled with tile adhesive. You need to know how to properly grout tiles.

The tile joints have a purely utilitarian purpose:

• They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from physics courses that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow seams or their complete absence, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, squeezing out one another.
• Tiles from different manufacturers are calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for deviation of the size of the finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can be up to 1 mm. When laying such tiles of different sizes without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.

In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, poorly calibrated tiles need to be moved, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.

To ensure that there are no gaps between the laid wall and floor finishing elements into which water and dirt can get in, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of their manufacturing technology.

The glaze that covers the ceramic is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. If the seams are not worn, brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.

A common mistake made by amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tile laying and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden using grout. Just like paint, it only highlights all the imperfections. Therefore, it is better to immediately replace defective tiles or lay them in an inconspicuous place, for example, for a bath or shower.

The composition and base of the grout varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some add special antifungal additives, others add strengthening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others add water-repellent properties.

The more such consumer properties for the grout mixture, the more expensive it is.

Kinds

The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement; the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.

To obtain a transparent or translucent seam, epoxy resin-based compounds are used, which can be tinted in various colors or various fillers can be added. Fillers can be finely ground silver or gold powder and small beads, as well as small holographic glitter, as for decorating nails.

The strength of such grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.

Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its peculiarity is its exceptionally deep black color. In gypsum or cement based grouts, the most dark color– anthracite, black with gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to color correctly.

Today, as a grout in places of high load and humidity, they are increasingly using painted different colors silicone based sealants.

Classic material Grouting of joints was and remains tile adhesive on clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.

Grout is sold in any construction supermarket both in ready-to-use form and in the form of a mixture for preparing mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equivalent replacement.

How to divorce?

Those who make repairs with their own hands should learn the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, and not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the peculiarities of their composition are such that they take a little water, to obtain a solution of the desired consistency, water is added to the dry powder.

Water used for cooking any mortar, in no case should it be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. It is necessary first of all to correctly calculate the proportions.

Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or 1 kg of dry mixture. But this figure is not mandatory. The thickness of the solution depends on the result that you want to achieve in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired thickness.

If, on the contrary, the mixture turns out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.

Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. Such compositions must be mixed thoroughly and for quite a long time until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained.

The shelf life of diluted grout is short, at most half an hour to an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clump, loses its plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If the composition begins to thicken during operation, you can add a small amount of water and stir well.

If you prepare a lot of grout, it is very difficult to use it all without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of mixture at once is logical only if several people are working on grouting the joints at once, each of whom performs a certain stage.

The most suitable container for diluting grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. The flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the hardened grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, the cup is more likely to crack than the grout to come off the walls.

In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used directly from the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours outdoors the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid substance unsuitable for grouting.

Tools

Before you start grouting, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and several thick sponges (like dishwashing sponges) with fine pores, as well as two absorbent cloth wipes. A stepladder is required for ease of work. To directly fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with the finished solution.

If the skills for applying grout have not been developed, it is better to take a tool small size. It’s also a good idea to have a painting knife on hand to partially correct the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.

In special cases, you may need masking tape with good adhesion. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will make your work much easier and you will complete it faster.

How to apply?

Be sure to use gloves, so you can seal the seams without worrying about the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without protecting your hand skin, you risk contact dermatitis.

To ensure that the seams are neat, without any foreign inclusions or color deviations due to tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a generously wet sponge directly during the process of laying the tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it happens that dried glue still remains in the seams, it can be cleaned out using a small spatula or a painting knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, since mechanical stress can damage the glaze. ceramic product. You will end up with chips that are very difficult to repair.

After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to wash them with a damp sponge and joint them.

You need to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and repair all the chips. You can also darken the seam or repaint it. You can change the color by adding special paints.

There are several ways to get beautiful and even seams using grout.

Gypsum or cement based

In any case, you can grout the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile is clearly fixed in its intended place. For floors, this moment is determined by the period when it will be possible to walk on the tiles without pushing the tiles under the weight of your own body.

The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, in continuous strokes along its entire length. The remaining grout is removed from the tiles with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the joint with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. Fill the seams on the entire wall in the same way. Then they return to the place where they started and clean the grout.

Cleaning the grout using this method of applying it has the goal of making all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is performed using a round ebonite stick. If you don’t have such a tool, you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. By running a stick along the seam with slight pressure over the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form it into a slightly concave shape. smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed and even along the entire length.

After forming the seam, wipe the tiles first with a slightly damp and then with a dry cloth. The formation process is very important here beautiful seam start until the grout begins to gain strength.

In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately using a damp sponge or finger, applying a sufficiently damp sponge with slight pressure. With this method, you won’t have to return to an already worn-out area. In addition, the tiles are washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.

Ready composition placed in a grout bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Either vertical or horizontal seams are filled first. When squeezing out the mixture, you need to carefully ensure that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water tend to shrink, that is, decrease in volume when drying and evaporating moisture from them, you need to apply the grout slightly more than it seems immediately at the moment of rubbing the seam.

Sealant

Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special guns. The second option is used for rubbing seams. The sealed tip of the balloon is cut off sharp knife, after which the conical nozzle supplied with the sealant is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the conical nozzle is cut off to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. Excess sealant from the surface of the tile should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth napkin.

Resin based

The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, before mixing the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and selected design filler. Try to apply the mixture directly into the seam. You can use a cooking bag with a nozzle or buy a special grout bag. It is most convenient to level the seams with a bendable plastic spatula.

If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the stained area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.

When grouting joints on tiles that have a textured surface rather than a smooth one, the mixture from the front surface of the tile must be immediately washed off with copious amounts of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into decent shape. When hardening, grout that has become embedded in small depressions in the relief is very difficult to clean. You could ruin your whole job.

If the tiles “do not fit,” then the seams are of different widths along one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after filling the seams as standard, you can use this trick: stick masking tape on both sides to a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be corrected. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest one. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.

Carefully apply the mixture to the seam being formed, immediately smoothing it out and eliminating defects. The tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to harden. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting the grout mixture on it. In this case, you won’t have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. You simply can’t do without adhesive tape here.

After grouting all the vertical and horizontal seams, do not forget to fill with the mixture all the technological cutouts on the tiles near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, taps for connection washing machine and so on.

When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without recess. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise side surface Brown will be visible from under the grout and ruin the whole impression.

For grouting, you can buy a mixture that matches the color of the tiles. But sometimes manufacturers use such colors and designs that it is simply impossible to buy a ready-made mixture of colors. In such cases, you need to buy either just white grout, or the closest color, and bring it to the desired shade by adding tinting paste of the required color range.