There are many blackberry lovers and they have a question: when do blackberries bear fruit (why don’t they bear fruit)? This agricultural crop has won such love thanks to its fruits, which are full of various vitamins. Also, during the period when blackberries bloom, they can decorate any garden. There is a unique blackberry smell in the garden. And the fruits have unsurpassed taste.

This berry crop bears fruit on the shoots of previous years. There are exceptions remontant varieties, which produce crops twice in one year. Fruiting of several shoots can occur over many years.

The shoots that have already produced a harvest will also continue to bear fruit next year, only the weight and quality of the berries will be significantly lower.

Planting blackberries

This berry crop in most cases is planted at the end spring period(May), because during this period the soil cover warms up. Garden blackberries prefer to grow in well-drained and breathable soil. Before planting, the land must be prepared. Therefore, still in autumn period, the area where the plant will then be planted must be cleared of weeds and various pests. For good fruiting, the soil must be filled organic fertilizers. The fertilizer can be regular manure, compost or humus.

Important: the soil must be fertilized moderately, otherwise, due to the irrational use of minerals, the blackberries will begin to rapidly turn green, which will negatively affect fruiting.

For planting blackberries, it is best to use annual seedlings that have well-developed root system. The size of the hole where the seedling will be placed depends on the variety. The distance between blackberry bushes also depends on this factor. The seedling is placed in a dug hole, and its roots are straightened into different sides. Next, the seedling is covered with fertilized soil. After filling the soil, it is necessary to leave a hole for future watering of the plant. Once the seedlings have been planted, they are pruned at a height of 20 centimeters. Fruit branches are completely removed.

Caring for this crop is not so difficult, but it is still necessary to take into account several nuances. Two-year-old shoots bear fruit, after which they stop doing so. Therefore, it is necessary to get rid of them by cutting them out. To harvest an excellent harvest, blackberries need to be pruned. This procedure includes shortening the stems, which are left to bear fruit, and eliminating damaged shoots. At first summer period(June) it is necessary to form shoots that grow back. Seven pieces are left on one bush, while eliminating underdeveloped shoots. As soon as the shoots reach ten centimeters in height, they need to be cut off.

The most important procedure for increasing the yield is eliminating the top of the shoot. This event helps the lateral buds to awaken and branches to form. Thanks to this, the fruiting zones increase. In the very first year, when the plant reaches 130 centimeters in height, the top of the shoot is cut off by ten or twelve centimeters. How many centimeters should side shoots be cut? The growth of side shoots is reduced by 45 centimeters. Thus, the bush does not grow and remains compact, which leads to increased fruiting.

Almost all creeping blackberry varieties have a fruiting zone in the middle part of the stem. Therefore, the top of these varieties can be cut off calmly; you do not risk reducing the yield. If you eliminate half the stem, each individual berry will become larger in size.

During the period when the berries begin to ripen, the plant especially needs watering. It is necessary to add to the soil mineral fertilizers. The amount of substances depends on the fertility of the soil cover. Watering is also necessary when blackberries bloom.

The blackberry harvest is not harvested immediately, but gradually, as the fruits ripen. This agricultural crop has advantages over raspberries: blackberries are not deformable, they are more transportable and have a longer shelf life at zero temperature.

Once you have harvested the fruit, loosen between the rows of blackberry bushes to a depth of ten centimeters. Also don't forget about watering.

Blackberry varieties that are not resistant to winter frosts must be covered at this time of year. When the first frosts begin in the fall, the plant is removed from the supports (trellises), after which it is tied into bunches and covered with straw or earth.

In one area, blackberries can grow and bear fruit for fifteen years or even more.

This plant has excellent resistance to various pests and diseases.

Blackberries begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting, then regularly. In the first year, the plant does not produce any fruit at all.

It may be that this crop produces a small harvest of berries or none at all. What are the reasons for such modest fruiting and why does this happen? Perhaps the reason lies in the blackberry variety. The variety is not fruit-bearing. Not all blackberry varieties produce a huge harvest. Many varieties have large berries, but there are not many of them. The reason for low fruiting may be a simple non-compliance with the technique of cultivating a given crop (agricultural technology). It is important to remember that this berry crop needs shelter. Shoots that should bear fruit next season may simply freeze out. Or the flower buds, which have virtually no frost resistance, may freeze.

It may be that the gardener makes a mistake. The mistake is that he can prune new shoots in the spring, that is, the vine that should bear fruit is eliminated. Due to this error, a significant reduction in yield occurs. It is necessary to prune in the autumn those shoots that are already dying and will not bear fruit in the future.

An important point: the vine may be green, but it does not bear fruit, since it does not have flower buds. This green vine will prevent other shoots from bearing fruit.

Another reason for the reduction in blackberry yield is a violation of the watering schedule. When the berries are filling, watering is definitely necessary. Otherwise, the fruits will become dry and shrink in size. When you water, be careful not to splash water on the berries as they ripen.

Blackberry clusters should not touch the ground. If these conditions are not met, the plant is affected by gray rot, which also leads to a reduction in yield.

Shoots that bear fruit must be tied to trellises. The height of such a support should be approximately two meters. In many ways, the cultivation technique for this crop is similar to that of raspberries. The plant must be planted on a piece of land that is well lit by sunlight, but a little shade will also be favorable for blackberries.

Blackberries should be planted in rows. If the blackberry variety you are planting is prickly, then the distance between the bushes of this berry crop should be three meters. If the variety does not have thorns, then this distance is halved and amounts to one and a half meters. Before planting, it is best to add several buckets of manure or humus and half a glass of ash to the hole.

Bottom line

Blackberries can be grown in southern and northern regions. In the southern regions, the plant should be planted in the autumn, in the northern regions (in the Urals, Ufa, and so on) planting should occur in the spring.

We wish you success in growing this wonderful berry crop!

Why do blackberries sometimes bear fruit modestly?
The blackberry harvest, like any other crop, depends on varietal characteristics plants. The yield from an adult bush of varieties with a multi-berry cluster is often expressed in double-digit kilograms. Bushes of the Doyle, Evergreen, Thornfree, Black Satin, and Smutstem varieties are especially productive.
A multi-berry cluster (up to several dozen berries) is usually characteristic of erect and semi-erect varieties. Creeping varieties and raspberry-blackberry hybrids bear fruit much more modestly. Their berries are usually larger and juicier, but the number of berries in a cluster is most often no more than 5-6 pieces, as in Tyberry, Loganberry, Texas, Boysenberry, or up to 6-12 pieces in the Silvan variety. It is not difficult to understand that with the same number of flower buds on the shoot, the yield of varieties of the first group differs from the yield of varieties of the second group by several times. The yield of hybrids due to the power of the structure is higher or comparable to the yield of modern raspberry varieties. The value of hybrids is not so much in the yield, but in the unusual taste and size of the berries. In addition to varietal characteristics, the reason for low yields may also be non-compliance with agricultural technology. It must be remembered that culture requires shelter. Without shelter, shoots that should bear fruit next season may freeze. Even if they are not frozen, flower buds, which are usually less frost-resistant, can often freeze. In this case, in the worst case, even necrosis of the tissue around the kidney can be observed. Some gardeners themselves deprive themselves of part of the harvest by pruning in the spring or shortening new shoots in the fall. That is, part of the fruitful vine is simply thrown away. In the fall, only old fruit-bearing vines should be cut back. Some people don’t even do this, believing that since the vine is green, it will last another year. It won't work. There are almost no flower buds on it, it will produce a dozen berries and will significantly shade the fruiting shoots, delaying the ripening of the crop. You can lose a ripening crop by violating the watering regime. Watering while filling the berries is necessary, otherwise the berries become dry and small, but when watering you need to make sure that splashes do not fall on the ripening berries, and the berry clusters themselves do not touch the ground. If this happens, the berry may be affected by gray rot, the same one that can often be seen on strawberries. Therefore, compliance with agricultural technology is very important.
The agricultural technology of garden blackberries is in many ways similar to the agricultural technology of raspberries. Fruiting shoots, just like raspberries, are tied to a trellis.
New replacement shoots that appear during the summer will bear fruit next year. They are placed on the ground. After harvesting, fruit-bearing shoots are cut out. Separate cultivation allows you to freely harvest, since replacement shoots are not confused with fruiting shoots, which is especially important for thorny varieties. Separate cultivation also avoids the transfer of pests and diseases from old shoots to new ones.
Most varieties of garden blackberries are not frost-resistant enough in the conditions of the Middle Zone, so they require bending down for the winter, and some, especially thornless ones, require light shelter. For covering I use one layer of plastic film. Instead of film, you can use organic insulation - foliage or spruce branches. In the conditions of the Middle Zone, shelter is necessary in case of a severe snowless pre-winter with temperatures below - 20 degrees. Garden blackberries laid on the ground, covered with snow, winter well even without shelter. But the trouble is that snow often does not have time to cover the laid bush before the onset of severe frosts, so it is necessary to cover it. The number - 20 is not a critical temperature - there are varieties that can withstand up to -30. Mature plant It will not die even without shelter, but the above-ground part of some varieties may freeze or become frozen. During the summer, new replacement shoots will appear, but the harvest from last year's shoots will be lost. If the blackberry variety is creeping, then bending it down to lay it on the ground is easy. It is impossible to lay mature upright and semi-erect varieties - their shoots have such a powerful lignified stem that it is impossible to lay them on the ground without breaking. In order to lay such plants, this must be taken care of in advance. New replacement shoots that develop vertically, when they reach a height of 40–50 cm, are bent so that the shoot develops horizontally at 20–30 cm from the ground. To prevent the shoot from straightening, its position is fixed with a hook stuck at one end into the ground. Bending the grassy fragile shoot is done carefully to avoid breakage. The end of the shoot is pinched (I pinch off the growing point). Typically, each bud on the main shoot grows into a long, thinner, more pliable side shoot. As a result, instead of one straight (without branches) shoot 3 to 5 m long, a branched shoot 2-2.5 m long is obtained. Pinching is needed in order to create a more compact bush with the maximum number of buds. Replacement shoots formed in this way are easily pressed to the ground when covered in the fall, and can be easily, without breaking, lifted for gartering on a trellis in the spring. Previously, I pinched a new shoot at a length of 1.5 m, but practice has shown that a bush formed in this way is less pliable for lifting and gartering. Each bud on the shoot is flowering. Therefore, the harvest subsequently turns out to be large, and for varieties with a multi-berry cluster, huge.
This branched shoot will bear fruit next year, but this season, weighed down by its own weight, it already falls to the ground without a hook. All that remains is to cover it lightly (if the variety requires it).
The shelter is removed after the snow melts in the spring. The branches are carefully lifted and tied onto a flat trellis (two posts and horizontal wires between them). The height of the trellis depends on the height of the gardener. Usually no higher than 1.8 m. Do not try to tie the shoots vertically. With such a garter, lignified shoots may break. The shoots are tied at angles that the plant itself can support. Usually from 30 to 60 degrees. Blackberries, unlike grapes, do not rot under cover. I don’t limit the number of shoots in a bush. Most varieties do not produce more than 10 pieces. The ground under the bush is cultivated with shallow loosening within a radius of up to 1 m from the center of the bush. Then your plant will not produce offspring. In that huge advantage blackberries compared to raspberries.
Layers and annual bushes can be planted both in spring and autumn. It's better to plant on sunny place, but blackberries also tolerate slight shading. However, bushes growing in the sun develop better, the berries are sweeter and the ripening period is earlier. It is better to plant plants in rows. If the variety is prickly, then the distance between the bushes in the row is 3 m. The distance between thornless bushes can be reduced to 1.5 m. Plants in a row can be of the same variety - no cross-pollination is required. Because a blackberry bush can grow and bear fruit in one place long years, the soil is prepared before planting as follows. Contributed to landing hole several buckets of humus and half a glass of ash (mixed with the removed soil).
If these conditions are met, this most grateful plant will delight you with a rich harvest.

The Attractiveness of Blackberry Cultivation- high and stable productivity. Rich chemical composition The fruits of the bush make them especially important for the human diet. This is a worthy alternative to garden raspberries and the opportunity to diversify culinary preparations. At correct landing and care taking into account all biological features blackberries will bear fruit for at least 10 years.

When is the best time to plant garden blackberries - in summer, autumn or spring? Choice of terms

The potential for productivity and benefits of blackberries is much wider than that of its close relative, raspberries. However, gardeners are not eager to plant and grow this magnificent shrub on their property.

This is set apart by the fact that for a long time plant varieties bred from southern forms were cultivated. They found it difficult to take root in the planting region and led to massive disappointment among gardeners.

The situation changed after new relatively winter-hardy varieties , which are able to withstand temperatures down to -30 C.

Therefore, for growing in middle lane or more northern regions (in Siberia and the Urals), it is important to purchase varieties of modern selection.

Despite this, in the northern regions, blackberry cultivation is somewhat limited. This is due to uneven fruiting, the final period of which often coincides with the first frost and some of the fruits do not have time to ripen.

In addition, insufficient lighting leads to loss of quality in ripened fruits.

Autumn planting of blackberries has more benefits and is most optimal in the middle and southern regions. After planting the shrub, a period with stable and cool temperatures will follow, high humidity will promote root development until the soil temperature drops to -4°C.

Blackberries emerge from a state of relative dormancy very early, and shrubs that have taken root in the fall will immediately begin to develop vegetative mass.

When planted in spring, the plant does not have time to take root. due to too rapid warming and the onset of sap flow, after which active growth of shoots begins.

A weak root system is not able to provide the necessary nutrition to the increasing vegetative mass. This greatly weakens the bush and affects overall development.

Spring planting is preferable in northern regions and if the blackberry variety is characterized by poor winter hardiness.

In autumn, the plant should be planted at least 20-30 days before the first frost, in spring before buds open, when the air temperature rises to +15°C.

For growing in personal plot planting material must be purchased from reputable nurseries. Annual seedlings with two stems, the thickness of which is at least 0.5 cm in diameter, have the best survival rate.

An important criterion is the formed bud on the roots. The optimal length of tap roots is at least 10 cm.

Preparing a place for planting a seedling: where is it better to plant, in the sun or in the shade?

For growing blackberries you need to choose a place well lit by the sun and protected from northern winds. In the shade, the young shoots of the plant will grow poorly, become elongated, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.

A good option is to plant along the fence, where the bushes will be protected from the winds and the stems from breakage. In this case, you need to retreat 1 m from the fence so that the plant is not heavily shaded. It is better to place the bush on the south or southwest side of the site.

To plant blackberries, you need breathable and well-drained soil. Loams are ideal with a humus layer of at least 25 cm.

Occurrence groundwater Location on should be no higher than 1.5 meters. If these indicators are violated, the roots of the plant will be damp and cold, which significantly affects winter hardiness and yield indicators.

To plant thorny shrubs, the planting area must be prepared in advance. All weeds are removed and destroyed vegetable waste, preventive spraying against pathogens and pests is carried out.

For growing blackberries Salty, rocky, sandy and marshy areas are not suitable.

Severely depleted soils need to be replenished with essential macroelements. To do this, the area is dug up to a depth of 30-35 cm, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

How to plant in open ground

Planting pits and substrate are prepared in 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

The blackberry root system is more powerful and penetrates deeper than that of other berry crops. Therefore, the pits need to be made more voluminous. The best option - adhere to the parameters 40x40x40 cm.

Upright varieties of shrubs are placed at a distance of 1 m, creeping plants at 1.5 m. 2 m are left between rows.

Organic matter and minerals must be added to each hole:

compost or humus 5 kg;
superphosphate 120 g;
potassium sulfate 40 g.

Nutrient ingredients are mixed fertile soil and fill the hole 2/3 of the volume with the resulting substrate.

The shrub is planted vertically with root collar depth 1.5-2 cm. In light sandy loam soils, deepen up to 3 cm.

Blackberry roots are placed in a hole, straightened and covered with substrate. In this case, the hole is not completely filled, leaving a distance of 1-2 cm to the soil level.

Thus, there will be a recess under each bush, which will contribute to the rational hydration of blackberries.

Then the surface of the substrate needs to be compacted and water the seedling with 5-6 liters of water. After spring planting The blackberry plant must be provided with regular watering for 40-50 days. After soil compaction trunk circle mulch with sawdust, peat or straw.

Mulching the soil surface under the bushes with peat or rotted manure with a layer of 15 cm will protect against weeds and will prevent the appearance of dense crusts. Additionally, it is a source of balanced supply of nutrients to blackberry roots.

Planting blackberries:

How you can and should care for a bush in the garden - advice from agricultural technicians

Blackberries are more drought-resistant and easy to care for than raspberries. The only drawback culture- relatively low winter hardiness and frost resistance. Therefore, you need to care for the plant taking into account its biological characteristics.

At proper care and subject to preparation for winter, blackberries will grow and delight high yield , according to the indicators of which among berry crops it is second only to grapes.

The golden rule of care is pruning

Throughout the life of the blackberry you need to control the density of the bush and make formative prunings.

These activities include:

Removing inflorescences in the first year of growth. This is done to stimulate the development of the root system.
In the second year after planting, you need to shorten the stems, leaving a height of 1.5-1.8 m. The procedure is carried out in the spring before the buds open. Sections should be made above the kidney.
After each winter you need to cut off frozen areas stems to a living bud.
In summer, at the beginning of June, the bushes are thinned out. At the same time, young shoots are removed, leaving an average of 6-8 strong stems for creeping varieties and 4-5 for erect ones. The tops of young shoots are cut off by 5-8 cm.

Bush blackberry is a shrub with a biennial fruiting cycle.. During the first year, the stems of the plant develop, become woody and form fruit buds. On next year they bear fruit and only in rare cases can they form new fruit buds.

Agricultural technicians advise removing biennial shoots that have spawned, thereby stimulating the development of new growths and thinning out the blackberry crown, which will only make it look better.

Prickly bush garter

For creeping types of shrubs you will need a trellis with 3-4 rows of wire with a distance between them of 50 cm.

In the first year of development, 2-3 shoots are fan-shapedly tied to the lower wires. Annual shoots are directed to the center of the bush, tied to the topmost wire.

Before the onset of cold weather, young shoots are removed from their support and sheltered for the winter.

Stems of erect blackberry varieties tied to a trellis with a slight slope to one side. When new shoots grow during the growing season, they also need to be tied up. This time the slope is made in the opposite direction from the fruiting branches.

A peculiarity of growing blackberries is the need to shade the bush while the fruits are ripening. Impact of direct sun rays negatively affects the commercial quality of the fruit. To do this, shading nets are stretched along the rows of bushes.

Fertilizer and fertilizing are the key to a good harvest

Blackberries need fertilizing every spring nitrogen fertilizers that will stimulate the growth of annual shoots - this is another golden rule. To do this, apply 50 g of ammonium nitrate under each bush, covering it to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Every 3-4 years, shrubs in the garden need to be fed and other macroelements. This procedure is carried out after harvesting. Per 1 m2 the following is added to the soil under the plant:

compost or humus 10 kg;
superphosphate 100 g;
potassium sulfate 30 g.

It should be remembered that nitrogen fertilizers applied only in spring. Also this mineral is large quantities contained in pig manure and chicken droppings.

Measures for fertilizing blackberries can be combined by spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture, which will suppress the development of microorganisms. For additional disease prevention, the area under the bushes should be cleared of fallen leaves.

When to water, do you need to loosen?

Deeply buried compared to others berry bushes, The blackberry root system makes the plant drought-resistant. But this does not mean that the plant should be left without irrigation and not watered.

Watering is especially necessary during the fruit-filling period. and when hot weather sets in. At this time, the wide leaf plates of the plant evaporate a large amount of moisture.

The optimal volume of water for an adult bush during fruit filling is 15-20 liters per week. At other times, you need to focus on the condition of the substrate and not let it dry out too much.

Several times during the growing season it is necessary to loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 10 cm, while simultaneously removing weeds.

It is especially important to carry out the procedure in the fall, at the end of August, in September. The looser the soil, the less the soil in the root layers will freeze.

Shelter for winter time

Before winter season the bush will need shelter. For this plant stems bend to the ground. It is important to do this until the air temperature drops to -1°C. Otherwise, they will lose elasticity and break.

To do this, the branches are tied into bundles, bent to the ground and secured with hooks. Upright blackberry varieties are quite difficult to bend down without breaking the stems.

Many gardeners have found a way out of the situation and at the end of the growing season, weights are tied to the tops of the stems, under the weight of which they gradually bend to the ground.

Regardless of the frost resistance characteristics, all varieties of blackberries need shelter for the winter. To do this you can use:

hay or vegetable tops;
roofing felt;
sawdust;
peat or humus.

Blackberry shelter for the winter:

The most dangerous time for blackberries is the snowless beginning of winter.. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the plant before the onset of the first cold weather, and in winter, pull snow towards it. Blackberry stems are not prone to overheating, so the plant can also be covered with polyethylene.

Foliage fruit trees not suitable as a covering material. It often hides pathogenic microorganisms, which in the spring can begin to actively develop on the bush.

Spruce branches are well suited for shelter, which will additionally protect against rodents.

Blackberry fruiting unevenly and can cover a whole month. The fruits of the bush are characterized by good transportability and a long shelf life at low temperatures.

Leaves and roots of the plant have bactericidal, sedative properties and will take their rightful place in the home collection of herbal remedies.

Blackberry classification

Useful tips

5.Many barren flowers
2. Freezing of the kidneys
Firstly, in order for the blackberry to bear fruit, its branches are buried in soil. You also need to know what variety you bought; late varieties do not ripen here.

Growing on a trellis

The lifespan of a group of blackberry bushes depends on soil and climatic conditions, methods of its cultivation and the thoroughness of pest and disease control measures. So, all other things being equal, blackberry bushes are more durable in the temperate climate zone.

Blackberry plants are fed only in the third year after planting; for the first two years it is provided with the fertilizers that were added to the planting hole. Subsequently, after a year or two in the fall, 4-6 kg of rotted manure (compost) are added, and in the spring, nitrogen fertilizers (30 g per bucket of water) or mullein solution (diluted 10: 1), and in the summer - complex fertilizers (30–50 g per bucket of water). 1 plant).

Lighting

To obtain a bountiful harvest of berries, the plant needs feeding. An excellent result can be obtained by mulching the soil in early spring with a layer of 5 centimeters. For mulch, use rotted manure or compost. You can also add urea or ammonium nitrate.

Watering

Cuttings for propagation are taken 5-7 centimeters long and planted in spring or autumn in fertilized soil, deepened by two-thirds. If you decide to root the shoot, then sprinkle it with soil at the end of summer. In the spring, transplant to a permanent place.

In summer, pinch off the tops and remove excess young shoots. In autumn, fruit-bearing shoots are pruned.

Trimming

This will save space, the plant will receive enough sun and air, the berries will be able to ripen completely and can be easily picked (blackberries do not bear fruit all at once, but over the course of a month and a half), and young shoots will be able to spread unhindered along the ground. They are often attached to a fan-shaped trellis. If desired, you can tie the bush to a pole or pipe.

Everyone knows this beautiful wild berry, distinguished by its original taste and health benefits. And also because it is not very pleasant and convenient to collect, since blackberry thickets are usually difficult to pass through and very prickly. But modern breeding science doesn’t care. And now we can pamper ourselves garden blackberry, which is distinguished by the absence of thorns on the shoots, and its berries are large and sweet.

To ensure that strawberries bear fruit the next year after planting, plant them in early August. Then she will have time to lay flower buds until autumn.

Wintering

This phenomenon occurs on old strawberries, as well as bad varieties. Therefore, buy planting material from trusted sellers. Choose the variety that suits your climate zone, otherwise the strawberries will not bear fruit.

It happens that 2-3 year old strawberries do not bear fruit. This may happen due to poor care last year when the buds were forming. Therefore, be sure to feed the plantings from August to September. This is exactly the period when strawberries are preparing for the new season and forming buds. Another 2-3 year old garden strawberries may not bear fruit if there was a harsh winter and some or all of the buds froze. To prevent this from happening again, cover the beds with pine needles, straw or other material, and also cover them with snow.

The strawberries are blooming, but the long-awaited berries are still missing. What could have happened?

Reproduction

The strip method of growing blackberries almost doubles its productive life compared to the bush method. This big difference is explained by the following. When blackberries are grown in the form of individual bushes, the latter are formed mainly due to replacement shoots developing from the buds of the upper part of the rhizome (at the base of the fruiting shoots), and only individual shoots that are part of the bush develop from the buds located on the younger parts of the root system .

When growing upright blackberries, young replacement shoots are pinched. Pruning fruit-bearing blackberries has its own peculiarities: the growing shoot is cut off when it reaches 60–90 cm (removing the top 5 cm long), and in the south the side branches that appear after this are also shortened so that they branch well.
But keep in mind that blackberries are not fertilized for 2-3 years after planting.

Landing

It is advisable to plant blackberries in a place that is lighted and protected from the winds. It is better to plant in the spring to prevent freezing.

Many gardeners are frightened by the low frost resistance of this garden culture, but if you know how to care for blackberries in the autumn-winter period, they will delight you with a bountiful harvest.

The plant loves illuminated areas. It also feels good in partial shade, but in this case the ripening period of the berries is extended by 5-7 days, they become smaller and lose their taste.

All varieties of blackberries (over 300) are divided into 3 groups:
Creating a strawberry plantation for a rich harvest

Top dressing

6.Pests

3.Strawberries have black flowers

Pests and diseases

There are several reasons why strawberries do not bear fruit.

Harvesting

The passage of nutrients (absorbed from the soil solution) through the rhizome is complicated by the presence of numerous stumps - from biennial shoots that die annually. This, in turn, leads to the fact that over the years the nutritional regime of replacement shoots deteriorates, their length and productivity decrease. The bush, which consists mainly of replacement shoots, becomes very old by the age of 10–12 years and the area loses its fruitfulness.

In the spring, the lateral branches of the blackberry bush are shortened to 20-40 cm (leaving 8-12 buds on each branch) - depending on the variety, the length of the growing season, and the ripening period of the berries. Fruiting stems are tied to the upper trellis wire, and newly growing stems are tied to the lower one. An erect blackberry bush is often formed in a fan fashion, when the fruiting branches are placed and secured on the opposite side of the growing young ones; in this case, the distance between seedlings when planting should be about 3 meters.

OgorodSadovod.com

How to care for blackberries

Blackberries are resistant to pests and diseases. Sometimes it can be attacked by raspberry beetles. To prevent this from happening, try to pick ripe berries on time. With a lack of iron and magnesium, chlorosis develops.

Feeding

The plant prefers slightly acidic or neutral soil. Limestone soil should not be used for planting.

Shaping and trimming

It should be taken into account that dewberry does not tolerate winter well, while bramble can withstand twenty-degree frosts. But it’s still better to cover any blackberries for the winter.

Blackberries are drought-resistant because their roots are located at a considerable depth.

Bramble - straight-growing (the most common);

Autumn care after fruiting

Growing sweet fragrant strawberries

Pests, such as the strawberry weevil, can reduce the yield. It lays its eggs directly into the bud. Fight strawberry pests, as well as others garden plants, needed from early spring. To do this, use insecticides.

In the spring there are return frosts, and the strawberries have already begun to produce shoots with buds. And if they freeze, then almost every blossoming bud has a black center. Such a flower will not produce berries. Therefore, cover the strawberries in the spring during freezing with a covering material, for example, acrylic.

Strip method of growing blackberries

Instructions

The advantage of the blackberry strip culture is that in this case the planting is created with the inclusion of a significant number of the strongest and most well-placed (i.e. at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another) root shoots that arise within the strip on the younger part root system. In addition, this method allows you to use the most powerfully developed replacement shoots and root suckers to form a bush and, due to more complete use of the biological characteristics of the plant, have fruitful blackberry plantations up to 20 years of age. This period of existence of a normally fruit-bearing plantation is sharply reduced by the spread of numerous pests and diseases of the bushes, especially viral ones.

Most often, an erect blackberry bush has 4-5 fruit-bearing branches. In May - June, pruning is carried out, leaving 6-8 shoots up to half a meter high near the main bush, and cutting off all weak ones just below the soil surface.

The berries ripen at the end of summer. They are collected in several stages.

sad-dacha-ogorod.com

Why don't blackberries bear fruit?

Marina Nikolaeva

First, dig holes to a depth of 45-50 centimeters. Fertilizers mixed with soil are placed at the bottom: rotted manure or compost (5-6 kilograms), potash fertilizers (45-50 grams) and superphosphate (130-150 grams). Then the blackberry bush is planted so that the root collar is 2-3 centimeters below the soil level. Plants are watered, mulched and trimmed, leaving 20-30 centimeters.

PoFIGISTK@

Most varieties bend to the ground, and if you have a straight-growing blackberry, then they bend it gradually during the growth process, as if accustoming it. For particularly sensitive varieties, covering is used. More often plastic film, but you can use leaves or spruce branches. It is advisable to cover it with snow on top. If the plant is not prepared for winter, the adult bush will not die, but the above-ground part may freeze, which will undoubtedly affect fruiting.

Why don't strawberries bear fruit?

During flowering and ripening of berries, it requires watering. But do not overdo it: overly moist soil can cause the death of the bush.

semi-creeping (rare);

And here we are indulging in strawberries Please note4.Poor pollination 1.Old strawberries

Laying plantations with healthy planting material, high level agricultural techniques in combination with the strip crop method will contribute to obtaining high and sustainable yields.

In the fall, remove old blackberry stems (without leaving “stumps”). It is recommended to remove them immediately after harvesting, since new shoots better conditions lighting more successfully complete development and preparation for winter. At the same time as the fruit-bearing stems, all weak, broken, heavily diseased and pest-damaged young shoots are removed, leaving well-developed and healthy ones.

If you take care of blackberries and care for them properly, they will certainly delight you with a bountiful, tasty harvest.

Plants are planted in rows. Erect bushes are placed at a distance of 0.9-1 meter, row spacing is up to 2 meters. Leave 2.5 meters of distance between creeping plants.

The plant propagates by seeds, green and root cuttings, rooted shoots and by dividing the bush.

In the spring, before the buds swell, it is necessary to do formative pruning: remove frozen, dried, diseased, underdeveloped shoots and shorten too long ones.

dewberry - creeping along the ground.

for you Galimax

Strawberries and garden strawberries are the same thing, it’s just more common to call these berries strawberries.

In bad rainy weather, strawberries bloom, but the berries do not set or set poorly, because bees and bumblebees do not fly. There are no tips here, because everything depends on the vagaries of the weather.

Strawberries produce their largest harvest until they are five years old, and then they need to be replaced with new, young plants. Therefore, if your garden bed is many years old, do not expect many strawberries from it. Without sparing, dig up old bushes and plant rosettes from the most productive varieties. It is better not to take planting material from your old strawberries, but to buy seedlings or grow them yourself from seeds. Fortunately, store shelves are full of seeds of fruitful and promising varieties of garden strawberries.

I sympathize...me too. The berries have never ripened before frost.

Creeping and semi-cresting young annual shoots are covered for the winter, bending them to the ground and covered with film and other materials, and in the spring they are lifted and placed on a trellis. For erect blackberry shoots, installing a trellis and bending down the bushes for the winter is not carried out, since rigid shoots almost do not lie down. In the fall, water-recharging irrigation should be carried out.

The next year after planting, in the spring, the plants are watered abundantly (up to 5 buckets per bush). The soil around the plants is kept loose and free from weeds. The loosening is shallow. In dry summers, water once a week during the growth of shoots and ovaries, otherwise you may lose the harvest.

In one place, blackberries can bear fruit for 12-15 years.

- Two years ago I purchased blackberry seedlings. As I was assured, this is an upright variety that grows as a bush. I planted the plant, it took root, but still does not bear fruit, although it even bloomed last year. Explain why blackberries don’t bear fruit?

Valentina Yavlenskikh.

Galina Ivanovna Salova, foreman of the nursery of the Altai Flowers agricultural company:

Blackberry shoots have a two-year development cycle: in the first year they grow, lay buds, and bear fruit in the second year. She is unpretentious - she grows on the most various soils. All blackberries are self-pollinating plants. Therefore, after flowering, berries should appear on your bush. Possible reason The reason why blackberries do not bear fruit is because they are oversaturated with bait. Since the main factor for the fruiting of self-pollinating plants is pollinators - bees, you should attract them to your bush. When the blackberries begin to bloom, mix water with honey and sprinkle on the bush. This will attract their attention, and according to all the laws of biology, your plant should bear fruit.