The need to set the ignition timing on modern cars is extremely rare. The use of microprocessor systems allows you to get rid of the adjustment of the moment of spark formation. Most often, setting the angle is necessary when replacing the timing belt, distributor (if any), control unit, as well as when installing a gas equipment system. But in order to carry out the correct setup, you need to know the main components of the system, their varieties, as well as the adjustment and adjustment algorithm.
Contact ignition system
This type of system is obsolete and is currently not used in the automotive industry. But in order to understand the principle of operation, it is necessary to consider it. It contains the following elements:
- Ignition distributor with eccentric shaft.
- The breaker is a small switch with two contacts (hence the name of the system).
- High voltage coil. To put it simply, this is a step-up transformer. It converts voltage from 12 V to 20-30 kV.
- To transmit high voltage, armored wires are used (from the coil to the distributor and from the latter to the spark plugs in the cylinders).
- Spark plug.
When the contacts of the breaker are closed, a pulse is generated, which is supplied to the coil. The latter carries out the conversion and supplies high voltage to the distributor, which carries out timely transmission to the spark plug electrodes. The distributor is driven by a camshaft or an oil pump (for example, in VAZ classic series cars). Before setting the ignition timing with such a system, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of it.
Contact transistor
It has one advantage - there are no large currents on the contacts, which saves the entire system from the formation of carbon deposits. Therefore, when using such a system, there is no need for cleaning. Like simple contact, it is not used at the moment; it is only a transitional link to the BSZ. Its reliability is slightly higher due to the fact that no spark gap is formed during operation.
But there are also shortcomings that cannot be hidden. During operation, the contacts are still erased, it is necessary to adjust the gap, and sometimes complete replacement. Friction is main enemy similar ignition system. Its setting and adjustment is carried out in exactly the same way as similar operations with the contact ignition system.
Contactless ignition system
The difference from the previous ones is high reliability. Firstly, there are no breaker contacts that switch a circuit under a sufficiently large current. Secondly, there is no need for adjustment certain parameters. For example, in previous designs you always need to monitor the gap between the contacts, otherwise the motor will not work normally. Instead of a contact group, a Hall sensor is installed in the BSZ. It reacts to passing near its core metal plate. Adjusting the ignition timing comes down to installing the timing belt according to the marks and minor adjustments by turning the distributor housing.
The ignition distributor has an iron “skirt” that rotates near the sensor. It has four slots (according to the number of cylinders). When metal passes near the sensor core, a pulse appears, but it is not enough to excite the primary circuit of the coil. Therefore, an electronic switch is connected between these two devices. It is able to amplify the signal coming from the sensor to the minimum required level. Unlike the previous system, this one requires using a coil with different parameters. The output voltage should be about 30-35 kV. Some car models use secondary voltages up to 40 kV.
Microprocessor control
This is the most advanced system, it is now used everywhere. Its advantage is that the controller collects all the parameters characterizing the operation of the engine. After this, a diagram is drawn up that describes the functioning of all systems depending on speed, load, crankshaft speed, and fuel quality. Everything is taken into account, and there is no need for a mechanical ignition distributor. The ignition timing is set entirely by software.
All functions that the distributor performed in previous systems fall on the shoulders of the microprocessor. It monitors the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, and therefore the pistons in the cylinders. Based on these data, low voltage is distributed to the ignition coils (in modern cars, one coil is used for each spark plug). During operation, the angle is adjusted thanks to installed sensors air flow, oxygen (primary and secondary), throttle valve position, etc.
Adjusting the contact system
A good example is the cars produced until the mid-90s in our country. These are the famous VAZ 2106, 2107, 2105 models and their varieties. In them, the distributor is driven by an oil pump. How to set the ignition timing, what actions need to be taken?
- Align the crankshaft to the mark on the cylinder block. There are three of them, in the process of setting up for power supply with AI-92 gasoline, you need to place the pointer on the pulley opposite the middle mark.
- Loosen the distributor and remove the cover.
- Install the distributor slider opposite the contact corresponding to the first cylinder.
- Install the distributor and its cover.
- Start the engine and, if necessary, adjust the angle by rotating the distributor around its axis.
Please note that adjusting by ear is extremely dangerous and can ultimately lead to destruction of the piston group. Therefore, it is advisable to use a strobe light or motor tester (if available).
Adjustment of BSZ and microcontroller
Its operation is affected by the timing drive. Of course, for the normal functioning of the ignition system in classic cars, gas distribution is also important, but there is a drive chain there. And its reliability is higher; the likelihood that it will jump 1-2 teeth is extremely small. With a rubber belt everything is a little sadder. If the tension is weak, it can slip and shift by several teeth, causing the valves to malfunction. Therefore, adjusting the ignition timing should be carried out after you make sure that the timing marks are installed correctly.
The belt is necessary to drive one or two camshafts from the crankshaft (depending on whether the 8- or 16-valve engine is installed in the car). Be that as it may, it is necessary to align all these three mechanisms strictly according to the marks on the cylinder block. It is worth noting that more precise installation can only be done if you focus not on the marks of the crankshaft pulley, but on those marked on the surface of the flywheel. You can see them through a special viewing window in the clutch block.
Basic malfunctions of ignition systems
In all types of systems, high-voltage coils can fail. But if in the contact and BSZ this results in a complete failure of the motor, then the microcontroller will continue to work. True, intermittently, since failure of all coils is almost impossible. As a result, 2 or 3 cylinders will work. It depends on what type of ignition is used - using a module (in which there is 1 coil for 2 spark plugs) or a circuit in which one coil is installed on each spark plug. The VAZ ignition timing is adjusted, for example, using software code embedded in the control unit.
In BSZ, switch failure often occurs. As a result of this phenomenon, the entire system simply ceases to function. Sometimes an electronic switch simply begins to malfunction due to the failure of some passive element. In this case, it is possible that the engine will begin to gain speed poorly and its throttle response will deteriorate. In contact systems, the main cause of all breakdowns is the breaker. Over time, the contact surfaces wear off or become covered with a layer of soot. Only cleaning, adjusting the gap or completely replacing the element can help.
Is it necessary to adjust the ignition angle when switching to gas?
The octane number of gasoline used in modern cars does not exceed 98. The gas, depending on what kind of gas it has chemical composition, has an octane number of more than 102. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the advance angle in order to normalize operation. For these purposes they are used special devices. They are called octane correctors. Allows advance or delay of spark breakdown without alteration of the ignition system. Often, an ignition timing variator for gas equipment is used for this purpose.
It will not be possible to use such devices on cars with microprocessor control, and there is no need. But in contact and BSZ, you can use such devices to manually make adjustments from inside the car. You just have to do this every time you change the type of fuel. If the 4th generation gas equipment is used, the adjustment is made by software - the equipment control unit automatically adapts. First, the opening time of the gasoline injectors is read, then the obtained values are multiplied by a coefficient and recorded in the fuel map for operation on gas.
Setting the angle using a strobe light
You will need one device - a strobe light. It allows you to set the ignition timing, injector or carburetor at the heart of the fuel system. The device is a lamp connected to a control circuit. This device has three wires:
- General (vehicle weight).
- Power supply (connected to the positive terminal of the battery).
- Signal - connects to it capacitive sensor, or to put it simply, it is a small piece of copper plate mounted on an alligator clip.
To carry out the setup, you must connect power to the device. The ignition timing is set using a pulse coming from the signal wire. It is attached to the armored wire that goes to the spark plug of the first cylinder.
The principle of operation of the device is such that when a high voltage passes through the wire, a small charge is formed in the capacitive plate, which opens the thyristor for a split second and supplies power to the lamp. To control, it is necessary to clearly mark a mark on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley so that it can be clearly distinguished. When this mark passes near the arrow on the cylinder block, the lamp in the strobe light will flash.
Adjustment using a motor tester
The latest developments in the field of diagnostic equipment make it possible to carry out such simple procedures quite quickly. But the most important thing is that the tuning accuracy is always high. Of course, a lot depends on the qualifications of the person carrying out all the work. As in the case of adjustment using a strobe, in this option needs to be connected signal wire to the first candle.
By using software can be obtained on the screen personal computer graphs characterizing the operation of each engine cylinder. Depending on what ignition timing you need, make the appropriate adjustments. When connected to the computer, the main parameters are displayed on the display - crankshaft speed, air and fuel consumption. You can also track all errors that are present during engine operation. And if you place a gas analyzer sensor in the exhaust system, you can even analyze the operation of the fuel system and determine the amount of harmful substances in the exhaust gases.
Correct setting of the ignition timing ensures reliable and effective work engine. Every driver should understand how the engine works internal combustion and be able to identify its incorrect operation. If the ignition is set incorrectly, fuel consumption will increase and the emission of harmful gases into the atmosphere.
What is ignition timing and why is it needed to be adjusted?
In the operation of an internal combustion engine, it is important that the fuel mixture is burned at a certain point in time. When the piston position is at the top point, the spark plug gives a spark and the combustion process occurs. It pushes the piston and causes the crankshaft to rotate. The ignition timing is a certain degree of TDC (top dead center) position. If it moves, then ignition will occur earlier or later than the required time.
Today cars use different types power units. There are certain calculation methods for each type and, accordingly, installation instructions correct angle ignition timing. The adjustment is made using a strobe or control lamp. Depending on the type of fuel and engine model, the advance angle is set differently.
Tip: Before starting work, make sure that the instructions are suitable for your car model and type of power unit.
Instructions for installing UOZ on different engines
The ignition timing can be set to various types engine, whether carburetor or injection.
How to set if you have a distributor
Since in our country there are a large number of owners of VAZ 2108 - 2109, which use carburetor engines with a distributor, it is worth starting with them. From the working tool we will need:
- strobe;
- tachometer (autotester or multimeter in tachometer mode);
- ring and open-end wrenches.
The adjustment must be made on a warm engine to a temperature of 85-90 degrees. Next, set the minimum speed to 800 rpm.
- From the ignition timing regulator, remove the tube that fits from the carburetor.
Remove the tube that goes to the UOZ regulator
- By placing your finger on the hole, we check the vacuum and, if necessary, reduce the engine speed.
- We turn off the engine.
- Close the hole on silicone tube a bolt of suitable diameter.
- We press out the three nuts on the distributor body using a wrench.
We press back the nuts on the distributor so that it can be rotated. - There is a special scale with marks on the gearbox housing. If it is closed with a rubber stopper, remove it.
The adjustment will be made on a scale with marks that shows the ignition timing - Using a screwdriver, set the flywheel to 0 degrees (when the long mark is opposite the triangular cutout on the scale).
- We connect the strobe as shown in the diagram.
We connect the strobe according to the diagram
How to set ignition timing on a carburetor engine
The adjustment process is as follows:
- We start the engine and control the speed using a tachometer.
- We direct the strobe beam to the scale with marks.
- We set the required angle for the brand of gasoline used.
For A-92 gasoline, the advance angle is +- 1 degree. For A-95 +-4 degrees. Each division on the scale represents 1 degree.
- We set the position of the distributor to the desired degree by simply rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise.
- After completing the adjustment, turn off the engine and secure the distributor by tightening the nuts.
How to make the adjustment correctly (video)
How to adjust on the injector
Majority modern models equipped with injection systems that are controlled by an on-board computer. In this case, for adjustment you will need a laptop with a special program. A violation of the safety regulation can be determined by the warning light on the instrument panel coming on.
The adjustment process itself is the same as in gasoline engine. The main difference is the absence of spark plugs. The algorithm is as follows:
- Removing the decompression mechanism.
- Dismantling the engine meter and the neck housing.
- Checking the oil supply level by moving the lever to its extreme position.
Tip: In addition to the adjustment itself, it is necessary to measure the voltage of the on-board network and the sensor. Normal voltage it is considered 0.45-0.55 V for the sensor and 220 V for the network.
Working with diesel
With diesel engines everything is much the same. One has only to say that the concept of “ignition timing on a diesel engine” is not entirely correct in terms of terminology. On a diesel engine with an injector, you can adjust the timing of fuel injection. The operation of non-injection diesel engines is associated with normal functioning fuel injection pump ( fuel pump high pressure).
We especially note that manual adjustment of the ignition timing of injection engine types is not recommended for novice motorists, since handling the programs requires certain skills, sometimes expert ones. Don't damage the car!
The process of adjusting the ignition timing is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to know what degree you need to set for the fuel you are using. The adjustment itself takes little time, you just need to do the work according to the instructions and in the correct order.
Furniture manufacturers always carefully measure it rectangular shape, but in apartments sometimes the geometry of the room turns out to be incorrect, and you need to decide how to make straight corners when plastering. After all, hardly anyone needs problems when arranging the interior, when a wardrobe, made taking into account the presence of baseboards, does not fit in a narrowing corner, or, conversely, there are huge gaps between the furniture and the walls. Therefore, let’s deal with practical stereometry, that is, working with a three-dimensional figure, which, in fact, is the room.
How to make even corners when plastering if the curvature is small?
Most often, owners of houses and apartments are faced with the problem of fairly crumbled external corners that have lost their shape, at the turns of corridors, in niches and alcoves, on vertical beams (reinforced concrete crossbars). It’s quite simple to check how big the error is; just take a regular metric square and place it on the converging surfaces of the walls. If curvature occurs, either one scale will not touch the wall, or vice versa, both will touch, and at the junction of the walls between them and measuring instrument there will be a gap. In other words, our external angle is acute or obtuse, respectively.
If deviation from correct geometry small, up to 2-3 millimeters, to correct it it will be enough to use a counter-shultz (perforated corner-overlay) and putty mixture. With a very small error (up to 1 millimeter), one putty is enough. Before making even corners when plastering walls, a primer is always used, the same applies to other finishing materials.
After priming, generously cover the entire vertical joint of the walls with the mixture and apply the perforated part so that part of the leveling compound appears through the holes. Next, use a regular spatula to smooth out the visible finishing material so that the counter-shultz disappears almost completely under it. From the corner, use the same putty to level the entire wall using the rule.
Aligning external corners with a large error
If the situation is much more serious than we would like, you will need a three-line laser level, according to which we will level the wall, as well as a couple of old two-meter rules and a plaster mixture. It is advisable that the beam level be supplied with a tripod, with which you can set marks at different heights. We will also use the counter-shultz, but as a fastening element, to increase the reliability and durability of the corner, so we take a perforated overlay with wider shelves or with a mesh. Now regarding the finishing itself.
How to align external corners when plastering - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Making the fixture
Using lasers, between which the angle is exactly 90 degrees, we make a two-meter square from the rules, folding their ends overlapping so that the rays pass exactly along the inner edges along the entire length up to the far ends. We screw in three self-tapping screws at the connection point. Such a device for checking the geometry in the layout is only suitable if both walls are longer than two meters. If one of them is significantly shorter than the rule, we either saw off the excess part of one of the sides of the square, or do not make it at all, but use exclusively a laser, which is more difficult, but no less effective.
Step 2: Setting up beacons
If the walls, the convergence of which needs to be set at 90 degrees, are longer than two meters, we rest the laser beams on their far ends and use self-tapping screws along the luminous lines (twisting to the required depth) to place beacons under the far ends of the connected rules. Next, we screw the screws into the holes specially made for them at equal intervals along the square, first on the same plane, then we rise a meter and a half higher. We try to drill on different levels holes one above the other, for which a laser level is also useful.
Step 3: Installing beacon profiles
So, along the entire wall we have self-tapping screws screwed in even rows, and either gypsum plaster or putty. Now we need to make sure that they are all at the same level, for which we resort to a laser, installing it at the lower corner screw on the plane of its head. All other screws should also light up, those that are slightly lower, we unscrew, and those that go beyond the line, we screw in. We fix it vertically using self-tapping screws with plaster plaster mortar beacon profiles 6 mm thick. To do this, apply the solution in vertical stripes along the screws, put profiles on it and press it along the entire length with a rule until it touches the screws and lies on them. We remove the excess mixture, being careful not to touch the lighthouse.
Step 4: Forming the Outer Corner
Then you can apply the primer, and when it dries, apply the plaster. In general, this primer layer should be the second; the walls should be coated first after placing the screws in one plane, having previously cleaned off the excess mixture that fixes them. Plaster mixture applied in a layer of about 3 centimeters, compacted along the beacon profiles using the rule (for this we disassemble our device). When both walls are ready and we reach their connection, we put the two rules together again and with their help, sketching out the mixture, we form a corner. Next, apply the contra-shultz with the mesh, lightly pressing it into the mixture, which we spread on top. The second layer should lie on top after the first has dried.
Between each layer finishing material It is advisable to apply a primer, even before laying finishing layer. It follows from this that you should wait for each layer to dry completely.
Plastering internal corners, setting geometry with laser
The error in the degree of internal closure of the walls is somewhat more difficult to determine, since it will no longer be possible to use a laser level; the housing will interfere. Therefore, we still use our same giant two-meter goniometer, but first we still take a level and with its help we prepare the “starting” supporting wall, that is, the one in relation to which we will set the second plane. To do this, you will need a three-line level, whose rays diverge 180 degrees from the body installed in the center of the wall.
How to plaster internal corners - step by step diagram
Step 1: Beacons on the supporting wall
First, we screw in the laser screws along the floor. Then we move to a higher level, fixing the screws exactly above the lower ones. So we move upward, exposing the plane with beacons, which should eventually line the vertical surface into even squares with sides of about 1 meter.
Before execution facing works tiles The question always arises - how to create a 90 degree angle on the walls?
After all, even a slight deviation, which is imperceptible on the wall and clearly manifests itself in the corner, will lead to the need to increase the layer of adhesive solution in some places and decrease it in others.
Therefore, before we start finishing works vertical and horizontal angular indicators are measured using: a plumb line, building level or laser level.
After alignment, the beacons do not need to be dismantled The best way to measure laser level, as the most convenient and accurate control tool, and then set up beacons along which to draw a right angle between the walls:
- made from steel profile. They are not afraid of water, are easily mounted on the wall, have a perfectly flat surface and cannot be dismantled after completion of work;
- from wooden slats cross section 20x30 mm. Despite the fact that they have a number of disadvantages, due to their availability they are used more often than others. After leveling the wall must be removed;
- the oldest type is exposure from fragment mortar mixture. There is no need to remove them, but this method is often used by experienced plasterers.
With the help of which beacons, as well as to make the walls in the premises smooth, the specialist decides individually.
How to make a right angle
The walls are leveled one by one It all depends on the magnitude of the wall slopes. Minor deviations include deviations of no more than 20 mm. When carrying out work, you should adhere to some rules:
- Displaying vertical beacons is mandatory.
- Compliance with the sequence when applying the mortar: first, a sketch is made with a liquid mortar, and after it sets, the final leveling of the wall surface is carried out.
- Applying a thick layer of mortar is not recommended, since the mixture will fall off under its own weight before it has time to set.
- Initially, one wall is aligned using the beacon rule, then the second.
- If there is a rule in the form of a large metal square, alignment occurs by moving the tool up and down along the beacons. Excess mortar is cut off and applied in missing places.
For large differences and deviations, use reinforcing mesh If the deviation is more than 2 cm, additional operations will be required:
- reinforcement by installation;
- by braiding wire over pre-hammered dowels, nails or screws. Depends on wall material: concrete, brick, shell rock, foam concrete, foam block;
- filling shingles in wooden houses.
If the walls have a slight deviation, then alignment is carried out directly between them, as well as between the wall and the ceiling. In this case, the solution is applied to the corners and leveled using the corner rule. Further from the corner line, the mortar on the wall is reduced to nothing. For more details, watch this video:
Aligning corners is the most labor-intensive construction process, which is best left to professionals.
Leveling Tools
Leveling without a standard set of tools is impossible. These include:
- The rule is 100-120 mm wide. Made from aluminum slats up to 150 cm long. Allows you to evaluate all the unevenness of the wall, its bulges and depressions.
- Wooden grater 50-70 cm long. Can be made of plastic or metal. Used to level the mortar on the wall.
- Grater. Used in hard-to-reach places for leveling and grouting.
- Corner in the form right triangle. Made from wood or metal. It is used to check the evenness of the surface and corners. The longer the sides that make up the rectangle, the more convenient it is for performing work on constructing a 90-degree angle.
The table shows construction angle meters that differ in design and measurement method:
| № | Name | characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | electronic | The display displays the results of vertical and horizontal deviations |
| 2 | laser | Liquid crystal display, angle measurement, memory of the last 20 measurements |
| 3 | optical | Consists of glass: dials and plates with an index of arc minutes |
| 4 | mechanical | Inexpensive, accurate measurement of internal and external angles |
| 5 | pendulum | The pendulum is rigidly connected to an indicating arrow, which shows the deviation of the measured angle from the vertical or horizontal base |
Before that, the mortar is applied to the wall with a trowel, and small irregularities are eliminated with a spatula.
It is impossible to align the corners without mortar. To prepare it, use a container of suitable volume, sand with cement or dry mortar in a ready-made proportion.
Every car owner should understand the theory of the internal combustion engine. So, it tells us that during the combustion of the air-fuel mixture, a large amount of gases arise, which by their force produce pressure on the piston. As a result of this, useful work. Ignition system in in this case acting essential element, which is needed in order to set fire to the mixture at a certain moment. It is as a result of this that the combustion process starts. That's why this system is very important in the overall structure of the car, since the level of harmful substances in exhaust gases, engine power and fuel efficiency depend on it. For this reason, every driver should know what adjusting the ignition timing is and be able to do it, since stable operation of this system will ensure more years life to the whole car.
Ignition timing is usually determined by the position of the crankshaft in accordance with its position relative to TDC. As for the designation, this is a degree before TDC. From this it follows that this angle is called the ignition timing angle. If the ignition timing shifts from TDC, then the angle increases, that is, the ignition becomes early. If, on the contrary, it moves towards TDC, then the angle, accordingly, decreases, and ignition is considered late.
It should be noted that in injector type engines the system is capable of self-installation ignition timing and its calculation. It depends on the operation of the engine at one time or another. In this case, the described indicator is determined based on a three-dimensional function and data such as engine load, engine operating mode and crankshaft rotation speed. As a result, the engine control system selects the most suitable ignition timing.
What ignition timing will be effective depends on many factors:
- Crankshaft rotation speed: than large quantity revolutions it carries out, the earlier the ignition fuel-air mixture necessary to reach the peak maximum level pressure at the required point.
- Temperature: the lower it is for the engine and mixture, the lower the oxidation reaction will be, as a result of which the angle should be earlier and vice versa.
- Engine load: the greater it is, the more high level in cyclical filling of the cylinder, as a result - the need for a smaller ignition angle in order to prevent detonation (unpredictable explosion in the engine).
Perhaps it will not surprise anyone that this indicator is the most important in general work engine. Therefore, the process of adjusting the ignition timing is undoubtedly something that every car owner should understand. If, of course, he values his car.
Signs of Incorrect Adjustment
Correctly adjusting the ignition timing will not only improve general dynamics operation of the car, but will also be able to significantly save fuel. Therefore, when identifying the very first symptoms of an ignition disorder, I recommend first of all diagnosing the entire ignition system, and then adjusting it, if necessary.
The following signs may indicate a cause of concern regarding the functioning of the analyzed system:
- Loss of power level;
- Loss of pickup level;
- Implementation of car instability idle move;
- A certain failure if you press on the gas pedal, as well as the appearance of knocking fingers;
- Problems when trying to start the engine;
- The inability of the car to develop maximum speed;
- Increased fuel consumption;
- The occurrence of shots in the carburetor or muffler;
- Motor overheating;
- Engine detonation after stopping its operation.
All this will help to find out what ignition timing was set, and it was set incorrectly. But similar signs can also be observed in the presence of faulty or incorrectly adjusted valve mechanisms and carburetor. Therefore, here it is necessary to understand in detail on the spot.
DIY adjustment
Each driver can adjust the settings of the described system independently. To set the ignition timing you will need the following tools:
- Strobe. Moreover, it doesn’t have to be some kind of “sophisticated” one, maybe a simple one that doesn’t have a built-in tachometer and is inexpensive. A more advanced one, which is distinguished by the presence of a built-in tachometer, costs more accordingly.
- Tachometer. In this case, you can use the devices built into the dashboard, as well as connect external devices (for example, a multimeter or autotester in tachometer mode) and focus on sound signals. The latter is recommended to be carried out only if you have considerable experience in this matter.
- Open-end or socket wrench. As alternative option an L-shaped wrench or a ratchet head may protrude. But optimal size about 10.
- Slotted screwdriver.
So, answering the question of how to set the ignition timing, first we should note the importance preparatory work. So, I advise first:
- Warm up the engine to about 90 o, that is, to the optimal operating temperature, and set the idle speed to a minimum level (this is about 800 per minute). To carry out the last action, you need to rotate the screw responsible for the amount of fuel mixture and located on the carburetor.
- You can set this minimum number of revolutions by ear or using a tachometer - whichever is more convenient for you. If they comply with the norm, then this action does not need to be performed.
- Remove the silicone tube from the fitting located on the housing of the vacuum ignition timing regulator on the trembler.
- Check if there is a vacuum in it by placing your finger on its hole. Nothing like this should happen. If this is not the case, then the speed should be gradually reduced until the vacuum disappears. To do this, you need to smoothly rotate the previously mentioned screw.
- Turn off the engine and use a knot or small bolt to remove the hole in the pipe.
- Using a slotted screwdriver, turn the flywheel (before this, carefully unfasten the distributor body by loosening its fastening nuts with a wrench), as a result of which a long transverse alignment mark should become visible.
- Connect the strobe depending on the instructions for it.
To set the ignition timing close to ideal, I recommend following the following instructions:
- Start the engine, and once again check with the tachometer that the speed is minimal.
- Direct the flashing beam from the strobe into the hatch with the scale.
- As a result of this, the highlighted mark, which is placed on the flywheel, should be opposite the required division on the scale.
- Each division on the scale is the corresponding degree of ignition timing.
- To adjust the ignition timing, rotate the distributor housing.
- After the required value has been achieved, disconnect the strobe and securely fasten the distributor.
For a better understanding of the above steps, I recommend also familiarizing yourself with such concepts as ignition timing regulators, as well as its sensor, clutch and ignition timing variator.
So, there are two regulators: centrifugal and vacuum. The centrifugal ignition timing regulator is designed to change this indicator at an automatic level, and this depends on the number of revolutions produced by the crankshaft. The vacuum ignition timing regulator is used for the same purpose, but its activity only depends on the speed of the engine.
The ignition timing can be changed by also changing the crankshaft position sensor data. And a device such as an ignition timing variator can help with this. The use of an ignition timing variator is necessary due to the fact that the burning rate of gas is lower than that of gasoline .
The main feature of ignition timing variators is that they can be configured with computer programs and change this indicator with an accuracy of 1 degree. Also, this device does not need to be connected to the pedal and allows you to create a car acceleration schedule. Therefore, an ignition timing variator is a necessary mechanism, which, in addition, can be used as a generator.
The ignition timing sensor is also an important mechanism. There are two of them in the car (on top and with right side), and if they are absent, the engine simply will not be able to start.
And the last mechanism, but not the last necessity, is the ignition advance clutch, the operating principle of which is, as a rule, mechanical. This ignition advance clutch is needed in order to provide better engine dynamics, as well as to advance the ignition of the fuel at higher speeds. As a result, the engine operates more powerfully and efficiently. 
Checking the settings
To check what ignition timing was set and whether it is correct, you need to be guided by the following signs:
- No “dips” in the operation of a warmed-up engine should be felt when it is idling.
- A short detonation (about 3-5 seconds) should be present if you sharply press the gas pedal, and the movement should take place on the most flat section of the road in fourth gear and a speed of about 50 km/h. In other words, the sound of fingers should be heard. If this is not observed, then the ignition was set too late, but if this is present, but cannot go away, then the ignition is too early. The situation can be corrected by small rotations of the distributor in different sides, after which the check must be performed again until optimal results are obtained.
Ignition timing is undoubtedly an important phenomenon in the overall picture of a car’s operation. Jokes and an irresponsible attitude towards this can lead to a quick breakdown of the entire iron unit. So keep an eye on this process.
Video “How to correctly adjust the ignition timing”
The recording shows a method for adjusting the ignition angle using the spark method.
