Preface
So that in early summer you can enjoy young cabbage on your personal plot, you should know the basic rules of planting and agricultural technology.
Before you start planting cabbage, you must first figure out what kind of vegetable you want - early ripeness for fresh summer salads or later, with stronger leaves for. After all, the final choice of variety will depend on this. In the first case, it is worth giving preference to varieties June, Golden hectare, Gift. But they are perfect for pickling Amager, Türkiz, Geneva and mid-season Anniversary. Regarding sowing dates early cabbage, then it starts from the first days of March and ends on the twentieth. The mid-season variety is grown from April 25, and the late variety - from the beginning of April to the middle of the month.
White cabbage
If you have already decided on the variety and planting time, all you have to do is prepare the soil. First of all, it needs to be fertilized. Wood ash and humus will help you with this. Their quantity is one tablespoon per kilogram of soil. The composition of ash is a natural antiseptic that prevents the formation of blackleg on cabbage seedlings. In addition to humus, other natural components, such as peat, can be an excellent fertile base. The main thing is that in the end the soil should be loose and allow air to pass through well. But it is not recommended to use garden soil for seedlings, especially if other sacral crops were previously grown on it.
Remember, such soil can be very dangerous for young seedlings due to the high probability of diseases and pests accumulated in it, even if the vegetable is provided with maximum care. If you do not have time to prepare a nutrient mixture, you can use ready-made complex fertilizer Kemira Lux, adding it to the right amount according to the instructions. Before planting seeds in the ground, they must be warmed up. For these purposes, use water heated to 50 degrees. The seeds are dipped in it for a quarter of an hour, after which they are dipped in cool water for another five minutes. Such a contrast shower increases resistance to the development of fungal diseases.
And to further strengthen the plant’s immunity and enhance its growth, special stimulants are used - Humates, Silk, Epin. It is recommended to soak the seeds in them for several hours. Before doing this, carefully read the instructions; soaking is not necessary for growing some varieties. Next, water the soil for sowing generously, deepen the seeds literally 1 cm and sprinkle them with soil. To ensure that cultivation takes place as intensively as possible, the soil is covered with film. This way, excess moisture will not evaporate. After this, we do not water the soil until the first shoots appear, while maintaining a constant temperature of 20 degrees.
If you did everything correctly, then already on the fifth day after planting the seeds, the first shoots should appear. As soon as this moment has arrived, we remove the film and also create new temperature conditions for the seedlings - 6-10 degrees. Such temperature regime maintain until the first true leaf appears. Usually it takes no more than a week. When the first leaf begins to grow, raise the temperature to 14-18 degrees. During this period, seedlings should be provided with maximum care, in particular good flow fresh air, while protecting it from drafts.
Young cabbage seedlings
To grow a plant successfully, you need a sufficient amount sunlight. Daylight hours for cabbage should be at least 12-15 hours. In a greenhouse, this can be achieved through the use of a fluorescent lamp. As for watering, it should be balanced, avoid drought and waterlogging. Don't forget to loosen the soil better penetration air to the roots. And in order to increase the plant’s immunity during the period of intensive seedling growth, a week after the first shoots appear, water it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate, at the rate of three grams of substance per 10 liters of water.
After two weeks after the appearance of the first shoots and true leaves, a pick is made, which consists of transplanting the seedlings into separate cups. About an hour before such a transplant, the seedlings are watered abundantly, then the soil is allowed to dry a little, and then the seedling is carefully removed along with the earthen lump. In order for it to take root better in the new soil, its root is shortened by a third of its length. The best foundation A peat-humus mixture will be used for replanting. However, you can start growing seeds in individual containers and further caring for them from the very beginning. In this case, the likelihood of injury to the root system of the seedling decreases.
After picking, hardening begins, that is, preparing the plant for natural growing conditions. So, in the first 2 days in the room where the seedlings are growing, open the window for 3-4 hours, while observing measures to protect it from drafts. Then, for a couple of hours a day, the pots with seedlings are placed in direct sunlight, not forgetting to cover the fragile seedlings with gauze. After about a week, watering is reduced, gradually preparing it for the next transplant into open ground.
Before you start planting seedlings in open ground, you should understand the appropriate one. Growing is especially good of this plant not far from groundwater. But the swampy and acidic soils Can't stand cabbage. The best option The soil is considered slightly acidic. If the acidity is higher, be sure to do liming. However, soil fertility criteria also depend on the early maturity of the variety. Early and mid-ripening varieties of white cabbage are considered the least whimsical, which cannot be said about late-ripening crops. Therefore, for the first and second options, growing on loamy and sandy soils is quite suitable, and for the last one, loamy and clayey soil.
White cabbage seedlings
Moreover, this will also not be enough to achieve high yields of late-ripening varieties. Care must be taken to introduce organic and mineral fertilizers. The most demanding hybrid varieties in this regard are those of late ripeness. To obtain high yield, you will need to apply fifty percent more mineral fertilizers than usual. It is also important to follow agricultural cultivation techniques. In particular, this applies to the place where seedlings are planted. You should not choose areas where cabbage crops previously grew (turnips, radishes, kohlrabi, turnips, rutabaga, white mustard). Before such areas can be used again, at least 3 years must pass.
Preparing the area for planting cabbage should be planned in advance. In the first autumn days, dig up the soil thoroughly, but do not try to level it. Thanks to digging and unevenness, moisture will be able to saturate the soil well in winter. But in the spring, after the snow melts, carefully level upper layer soils for rapid evaporation excess moisture. Soon after the first buds, weeds will appear on the trees. They must be uprooted and burned.
Depending on the ripeness of cabbage, the very moment when it needs to be planted in open ground is determined. For example, planting of early cabbage occurs when the seedlings have the first 5-7 leaves and their height reaches 12-20 cm, and mid-season and late cabbage - when there are 4-6 leaves and a height of 15-20 cm. Planting of early cabbage is planned for beginning of May mid-season varieties- at the end of May - mid-June, and later - in the middle and end of June. To make it comfortable for vegetables to grow in a personal plot, a certain planting pattern is also followed:
- for hybrid and early varieties – 30x40 cm;
- for mid-season varieties – 50×60 cm;
- For late varieties white cabbage – 60×70 cm.
Planting cabbage in the garden
Such indicators are the most optimal. Plantings should not be too dense; growing cabbage requires free space and good access to sunlight, so in this case The planting pattern is extremely important. The holes for planting seedlings should be deep enough, approximately the height of a shovel, because mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as other fertilizers. As for the width of the hole, it should be slightly larger than the size of the earthen ball of seedlings.
In each cavity we place two handfuls of humus or manure, a handful of sand or peat, and also 50 g wood ash and 1 tsp. nitrophoska. Lightly mix all these fertilizers and pour plenty of water on them so that they react with each other. If you are planting in sunny weather, leave the soil to dry out, this is especially advisable when using manure. This way the earth will warm up enough and will promote the rapid growth of white cabbage.
Sprinkle a layer of fertilizer on top thin layer earth and plant the seedlings together with a lump of earth in the ground, carefully compact it and lightly press it to the ground so that the roots take the correct direction. If you feel that the root system is weak or slightly damaged, we recommend lightly dusting the earthen ball before planting Kornevin. This root formation stimulator will help minimize the risk of white cabbage not germinating. At the end, the seedlings need to be watered generously around the area, avoiding getting it on the leaves.
First of all, after planting the seedlings, make sure that they do not bend too much towards the ground. If this still happens after watering, the seedlings need to be seated in place. During the first week, water the seedlings every evening using a watering can with a divider. If there is no frost during the growing period, the cover can be removed at night. Further care will consist of regular watering, loosening the soil, weeding, applying the necessary fertilizers and pollinating white cabbage from pests and fungal diseases. And another 21 days after planting, hilling is done, repeating the procedure after 10 days.
Watering cabbage
Due to the fact that the plant loves moisture, maintaining watering is very important. In order for it to remain in the soil longer, it is advisable to water it in the evening. In hot weather, seedlings need to be watered every 2-3 days, and in cloudy weather - once every 5-6 days. After this, be sure to loosen the soil, allowing a flow of fresh air and moisture to better penetrate the root system. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to use soil mulching, lining the seedlings with a layer of peat about 5 cm thick. It simultaneously nourishes the plant and allows it to retain moisture in the soil longer, thus providing maximum care for the plant.
As for fertilizing, they also do not stop after planting in the ground. An ammonium nitrate solution prepared at the rate of 10 g of the substance per 10 liters of water is ideal. This amount is enough for 5-6 bushes of white cabbage seedlings. Further care involves fertilizing when the cabbage heads begin to form; do this with a mineral solution consisting of 4 g of urea, 5 g of double superphosphate and 8 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.
As you can see, growing white cabbage requires uneven application of fertilizers. At first, it actively needs nitrogen, and during the formation of a head of cabbage, it needs potassium and phosphorus. Besides, proper care and the timely application of such fertilizers will have a beneficial effect not only on a high yield, but also on the plant’s resistance to changes weather conditions and fungal diseases.
An important point in caring for white cabbage is also the treatment of seedlings from pests. The greatest effectiveness is shown by dusting the leaves with ash with the addition of tobacco dust, with their preliminary treatment with a solution of laundry soap. This method helps repel garden slugs and fleas that love to feed on the succulent leaves of the plant. Plus, it's absolutely safe.
Infusion against cabbage pests
Among the others traditional methods, which have proven themselves in eliminating dangerous pests, such as aphids, caterpillars, we will extract an infusion from tomato tops. To prepare it, you will need to take 2 kg of tomato tops, pour 5 liters of water into it and leave it to steep for 3-4 hours. After this time, the infusion is allowed to boil for 3 hours and cool slightly. The concentrated infusion is diluted with water in proportions 1:2. In order for such a solution to stick better to the leaves, and therefore have a longer lasting effect, it is worth adding 20-30 g of grated tar soap to it before use.
An infusion of onion peels has similar properties. You will need a liter jar of husks, which will need to be filled with 2 liters of boiling water and left to steep for two days. At the end of the infusion process, filter the liquid and dilute it with an equal amount of water, and for better stickiness, add two tablespoons of liquid soap.
Gardeners fight other cabbage pests, such as the larvae of winter cutworms, cabbage flies and chafers, in a simple but very in an effective way- bait. Moreover, it is arranged not for the pests themselves, but for the ants, who are their first enemies. To do this, add a small jar of sweet water, diluting a couple of tablespoons of honey or jam in it. The ants, attracted by such a delicacy, eat the larvae and neutralize their harmful effects on the cabbage. In addition to spraying and ants, you can also fight insect pests by planting fragrant, aromatic plants. Planting marigolds, sage, cilantro, rosemary, basil, and mint works well to repel aphids, caterpillars, flea beetles and slugs. Take this into account when providing proper care to white cabbage.
From the article, the reader will learn all the details of growing cabbage seedlings at home, and how to sow immediately in open ground. The article tells how to plant seedlings on permanent place and look after her.
Cabbage can be grown in two ways - seedlings and non-seedlings. The first is aimed at obtaining an early harvest. Here are the dates when it is necessary to plant seeds of certain types of cabbage:
- cabbage (hybrids, early varieties), red cabbage - from March 10 to March 25;
- late and mid-season white cabbage - April 5–15
- kohlrabi - March 10–30;
- broccoli, cauliflower - March 15–25;
- Brussels sprouts - late March-early April;
- Savoy - from March 15 to April 10.
Preparing and sowing cabbage seeds
Pre-sowing treatment of cabbage seeds different types the same. First, pour the seeds of the selected variety into a triple layer of bandage or gauze. To disinfect them, they must be placed in hot water, the temperature of which is + 50 ° C, for 15 minutes, after that - for two minutes in the cold.
Next, the fabric with the seeds is placed on a saucer, kept for a day at room temperature, making sure that the gauze is damp all the time. Then the swollen seeds are put on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator so that they harden here for 24 hours.
After this, the seeds are dried until they flow and sown. The quality of the soil is very important. The land should not be “random” - from the street, from the garden. Since such soil contains pathogens of fungal diseases that are dangerous for seedlings. Purchase special soil for cabbage seedlings from a reputable store. You can bake it for 15 minutes in the oven at a temperature of + 200 ° C or 5 minutes in the microwave, turning it on at full power.
The cooled soil is poured into a clean seedling box, previously washed with laundry soap. Spill the soil with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, sow cabbage seeds at a distance of 2 x 2 cm from each other and sprinkle 1 cm of the same soil on top. After this, the box should be covered with a transparent film and put in a warm place.
Growing cabbage seedlings in a box
It is very important not to miss the emergence of seedlings. As soon as the first “loop” appears from the ground, immediately place the box on the windowsill or glass balcony(if the temperature there does not drop below +10 °C).
It is important to prevent the seedlings from stretching so that the seedlings grow strong. This is facilitated by optimal temperature, watering mode. As soon as the first shoots appear, place the box with them closer to the light, where the temperature in the room is +15+17 °C. If it is higher, the seedlings will begin to stretch out. Watering is needed very moderately, since excessive soil moisture at this stage of cultivation contributes not only to the elongation of seedlings, but also to infection with “blackleg”.
If you notice that the stem near the ground has become thin and black, the plant has fallen, which means it has contracted “black leg”. Pull it right up by the roots and remove it, and transplant healthy seedlings into another soil. You can try to save diseased plants. To do this, spray the stem and the ground around them with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, sprinkle the soil around the stem with ash and stop watering the seedlings altogether.
Cabbage pick
When the age of the seedlings reaches 20 days, transplant each into a separate container. Small seedling cups with a diameter of 5 and a height of 6 cm are suitable. Carefully, using a small spatula or coffee spoon, remove the plant along with a lump of earth, plant it in a cup half or 2/3 filled with moist soil, cover the stem with soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Place the cabbage plants to take root on a windowsill that is not exposed to direct sunlight and a temperature of +20 °C.
The seedlings will remain in such conditions for 3 days, during which time they will have time to take root. After that, place it where the temperature during the day is +13+14, and at night +10+12 °C.
Young cabbage plants are planted in open ground from April 25 to May 5 (depending on weather conditions). Cruciferous vegetables - turnips, radishes, cabbage, turnips, radishes, watercress, rutabaga - should not grow in this place for 3-4 years. To do this, dig up the bed, loosen it with a rake, and use a shovel to make holes at a distance:
- 30 x 40 cm for early and hybrid varieties cabbage, 50 x 60 for medium and 60 x 70 for late varieties of red and white cabbage;
- 30 x 40 cm for kohlrabi;
- 60 x 70 cm for Brussels sprouts;
- 30 x 50 cm for broccoli;
- 40 x 60 cm for Savoy;
- 25 x 50 cm for cauliflower.
If the weather promises to be sunny in the following days, be sure to shade the plants. This can be done using newspapers, nonwoven fabric or burdock leaves, if they have grown by this time.
Water the seedlings carefully every evening using a watering can fitted with a spray tip. When the seedlings take root after 5–7 days, remove the coverings. They are left only if night frosts are expected.
If you want to use the seedless method, plant the seeds immediately in a permanent place. To do this, dig up the soil here in the fall. As soon as the snow melts, pour boiling water over it and cover it with film for two days so that the ground thaws.
After this, loosen the soil to a depth of 5 cm, make grooves to a depth of 1 cm, with a distance of 20 cm between them. Fill the grooves with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, sow the seeds prepared as described above.
Place low arcs over the crops and place a high-density transparent film on them. If they come warm days, open it slightly on one side. When the seedlings reach 20–30 days of age, plant them in a permanent place.
Cabbage loves abundant watering. Give her enough moisture. Water in the evening, if the weather is hot and dry, then do it once every 2-3 days. On cloudy days, you can water generously once every 5-6 days.
Combine loosening with hilling. Adding peat to a height of 5 cm gives excellent results. It will become an excellent mulching material, suppress the growth of weeds, help maintain moisture, while simultaneously providing nutrition to the plant.
In hot, dry weather, cruciferous flea beetles damage seedlings. To preserve young plants, they are dusted with sifted wood ash.
In wet weather, slugs become the main pest of cabbage. They can be fought with chemical and folk remedies. If you chose the first, sprinkle the soil on the cabbage plantation special means, created to combat this pest. If you do not want to use chemicals on the site, dust the soil in these places with dry mustard or ground black pepper. You can collect slugs by hand and then destroy them.
Cabbage moth larvae can also cause damage to these plants. Therefore, gardeners try to plant seedlings in early dates when these insects have not yet emerged. From folk remedies We can recommend an infusion prepared from 10 g of white mustard powder, which is dissolved in 1 liter of water. The liquid is infused for 2 days, before spraying it is diluted with water in a ratio of 5:1. The stepsons of tomatoes will also help to cope with this scourge; they are laid out in rows.
Video on the topic - how to grow white cabbage:
Cauliflower growing experience:
Growing early cabbage under covering material. When to plant early cabbage seedlings? Early cabbage using the seedless method. Caring for cabbage. Video.
Last year I wrote an article “How to grow early cabbage without the hassle of seedlings.” This year I wanted to make a video on this topic, because everything has already been written! But the weather made its changes, and as they say, we have experience.
When to plant early cabbage seedlings?
How I plant cabbage every year, you can read “Growing early cabbage without the hassle of seedlings. Harvest in June” – This year the planting dates were later, the snow lay in drifts at the beginning of April. Spring was very late and I planted the sprouted cabbage at the first May holidays. There were no real leaves, but there was a harvest, the cabbage grew normally. And now it’s clear that you don’t have to wait for the seedlings to grow up; you can plant them in the garden as soon as the cabbage sprouts. When to sow cabbage seeds? – Look at the weather, cabbage sprouts in 4 days, but we’ll give it a week for sprouting. The snow has melted, the ground has dried, the night temperature is about zero - you can sow.
Planting early cabbage.
There is nothing complicated, the cabbage has sprouted, and we immediately transplant it into the garden bed. It would be possible to sow seeds in the garden, but then it will sprout later - the temperature at night is about zero.
Caring for early cabbage.
Caring for cabbage is very simple - cover it with spunbond and remove it only for mulching and watering. It is better to water 2 times a week, cabbage loves water very much, but you can water it once.
This year it rained constantly and it seemed to me that I didn’t have to water it - the water would pass through the spunbond. But as it turned out, very little water passes through the spunbond; this amount is not enough for irrigation. Small droplets on the leaves and completely dry mulch, and this during a rainstorm. Don't be lazy, water the cabbage.
This year, due to the rains, there is an invasion of snails and slugs in the Moscow region. I had to select them manually, and sprinkled the perimeter bed with red pepper several times. Boards outside the bed Sprayed with fly and mosquito repellent. You can also use cockroach repellent, but I didn’t have it on hand. I did this so that new slugs from all over the area would not climb into the garden bed.
Hybrid Eliza.The harvest this year was 3-4 weeks later, the heads of cabbage were smaller than always. But last year I planted the Parel hybrid, and this year the Eliza hybrid. While it is difficult to say which hybrid is better, one year is not an indicator. Article and video about growing cauliflower - . Hybrid Eliza rehabilitated, last heads of cabbage 1,600
Video “Growing early cabbage from seed to harvest”
“The secret of growing late cabbage” —
Early sowing, as gardeners know, promotes an earlier harvest. Our reader from the Urals, Natalya Bobkovskaya, uses an interesting and effective method sowing greens, flowers and cabbage seedlings in February-March. Natalya makes sowings at the very end of winter or in early spring V polycarbonate greenhouse under the snow. Sowing in February-March in a greenhouse significantly improves the quality of the resulting harvest of vegetables, flowers and seedlings. This greenhouse growing method is great for cold and snowy regions. Read about Natalya’s successful experience in this article (and, by the way, it’s not too late to do early sowing if the snow hasn’t melted!)
I don’t have the opportunity to grow a large number of different seedlings at home: there is limited space on the windowsills, and it’s impossible to provide all the plants with the proper lighting and temperature conditions. I think many people are familiar with the difficulties of window sills and seedlings in a city apartment. I don't really like purchased seedlings. If we're talking about about large vegetable gardens (and this is exactly what I have), then purchasing seedlings will cost a very decent amount. It’s still more profitable to grow your own. You can’t do without seedlings in the Urals, because our summer is short and spring is quite late (late April - early May). How to get a large quantity? I do at the end winter (in February) or in the earliest spring (in March) sowing vegetables and flowers in a greenhouse under the snow.
Since we got it, I have been growing many plants in it, and for several years now I have been doing sowings in winter. It’s not difficult, you just need to prepare the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, and come to the site for a couple of hours in February or early March. Thanks to sowings done in February-March, plants sprout physiologically normal conditions, the seedlings do not outgrow or stretch, they tolerate replanting much easier and their survival rate is much higher. I’m not even talking about saving valuable time in the spring during the planting period (and in winter too - has anyone tried to calculate how much time we spend at home on sowing, picking and watering seedlings?).
Sowing in February: getting ready for the fall
In the fall, I prepare the soil in the greenhouse for sowing in February-March. Everyone cultivates the land in their own way and no special tricks are needed for early winter sowing. I dig up the soil, add and, mark the grooves and spill the soil generously (I put a waterer in the greenhouse for a couple of hours). Watering at this stage is very important, because there will be no snow in the greenhouse in winter, so it is necessary to create at least some supply of moisture.
Sowing in February - early March
In winter, I choose the right moment - somewhere in late February or early March. In the Urals there is usually as much snow as possible at this time, but it has already compacted, which means it is easier to pour it into the greenhouse than freshly fallen loose snow. These times may move forward or backward slightly in your area.
I simply sow the seeds in prepared beds in the greenhouse. Cabbage, radishes, flowers - in rows; lettuce and dill - in bulk, where there is room left. You definitely need to install plastic labels so that you can then know where everything is planted. I cover the crops with agril or any garden moisture-permeable fabric material medium density. Neither very thick nor very thin covering material is suitable: the first allows little light to pass through, and the second does not protect crops from the cold. I cover the crops with snow over the top of the covering material. The minimum layer of snow is 5 cm, but in general the more, the better.
The entire sowing procedure in February-March takes one and a half to two hours, most of which is spent throwing snow into the greenhouse. This is not an easy job, so a strong assistant will come in handy - :)).
Sowing in February: further development
The next time I come to the garden is somewhere in mid-April. Previously, on this visit, I only sowed lettuce and radishes in the greenhouse. Now, with early sowing in February or early March, at this time the first shoots have already appeared in the greenhouse. The size of the seedlings depends solely on the amount of moisture: if the spring was early and warm, there may not be enough moisture even under agrill. True, nothing has ever dried out for me. I water the crops abundantly directly through the agrill.
On the same visit I sow in a greenhouse under plastic jars, zucchini, specially left free place. I also close the top of the jars with agrill. Cabbage and flower seedlings still have almost a month left before they are planted in the ground; They have enough light under the agrill, but they are inaccessible to pests, which sometimes completely mow down all the crops in the ground. This is another advantage of sowing in February under covering material and snow.
As a rule, by the beginning of May, greens and radishes are completely ready for consumption. By the time the seedlings I grow at home are planted in the greenhouse, all the greens sown in February are already collected for the table, and the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.
Crops for sowing in February - early March in a greenhouse under the snow
For early sowing in a greenhouse under snow, virtually any frost-resistant flowers and vegetables are suitable, with some reservations.
- Early vegetables and greens. Radish, leaf salad, dill, mustard greens, watercress, cilantro (coriander), spinach.
- All types of cabbage for seedlings: early and mid-season white cabbage, red cabbage, Savoy, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, conical cabbage, kohlrabi. Cabbage seedlings prefer bright light and cool temperatures, so they develop better in a greenhouse than at home. See also: .
- Flowers for seedlings. I sow annuals, zinnias, snapdragons, Drummond phlox, and kochia in the greenhouse. Flower seedlings, when sown in a greenhouse in February, turn out strong, stocky and much better than those grown at home. It is better not to grow annuals that do not tolerate transplantation well (cosmea) in a greenhouse as seedlings, but to immediately sow them in a permanent place in the garden. Perennials that require stratification can also be sown in winter, but not in a ridge, but rather in separate deep containers, which are buried there, in the soil in the greenhouse (so that the containers can then be moved to another place).
So, we bought cabbage seeds and it was time to plant seedlings. Here are the dates when it is necessary to plant seeds of certain types of cabbage:
- white cabbage (hybrids, early varieties), red cabbage - from March 10 to March 25;
- late and mid-season white cabbage - April 5-15
- kohlrabi - March 10-30;
- broccoli, colored - March 15-25;
- Brussels sprouts - at the end of March-beginning of April;
- Savoy - from March 15 to April 10.
Since I have a southern balcony and it’s always too hot for cabbage seedlings, I plant my cabbage on the 20th of April directly in the greenhouse or at the end of April directly to a permanent place for bottles.
In the greenhouse I have been preparing the soil since the fall; before the cabbage, peppers grew in this greenhouse, which were mulched with mowed grass from the lawn. After harvesting the peppers, I put all the mulch aside, remove a small layer of the most “delicious fertile” soil, add mulch again, orgavit (I make a mixture of horse and cow), always OFEM, spill everything with Emb-bio and cover it with the soil that was removed. I throw the rest of the mulch and marigolds on top. This is how my greenhouse spends the winter. In the spring (around April 20, sometimes earlier, it all depends on the weather) I water the greenhouse warm water and after a couple of hours I make furrows and plant cabbage seeds. I immediately make the distance between the seeds larger, so that when picking seedlings to a permanent place, there is less damage to the roots. Before picking, I water the seedlings with Embio and Ecofus - this helps protect them from pests, temperature changes, and they receive good nutrition, while the mulch from below rots.
Under the bottles I planted cabbage in early May. The soil there is also very nutritious, more on that below. In the prepared area, using a flat stop, I make indentations about 1.5 - 2 cm, I try to sprinkle a little OFEM along the edge (when the bacteria begin their work, they raise the soil temperature by 3-4 degrees, which promotes better seed germination) and soot directly into the center 2-3 cabbage seeds, cover with soil with vermicompost and put a bottle and lid on top. Why with a lid? Firstly, it is very convenient to ventilate and water the seedlings with Embio and Ecofus, and secondly, when the cabbage grows, I remove the lid, but leave the bottle - this helps to protect our cabbage from the cruciferous flea beetle and butterflies, which by the time the cabbage grows are already looking for everything a place for the larvae to lay. As a rule, all the seeds germinate; there are very few failures. If two or three seeds sprouted at once, then the extra cabbage sprouts can be transplanted to another place, but it is better to choose the strongest one among them, and cut off the extra one of this pair with scissors so as not to disturb root system the remaining seedling.
Now about the cabbage beds. Cruciferous vegetables - turnips, radishes, cabbage, turnips, radishes, watercress, rutabaga - should not grow in this place for 3-4 years. It is advisable that onions, green manure, grains, carrots, cucumbers and potatoes grow here before. Cabbage from a greenhouse grew up on warm bed 2 years, i.e. in this bed, part of the nutritional composition had already rotted, and I did not add a new portion to it. Cabbage in bottles grew in a warm bed that we made in early spring.
So, we transplant cabbage from the greenhouse to the garden bed. We immediately prepare the holes a little larger and deeper, add a little bone meal, ash, vermicompost there and transplant our already well-grown seedlings along with a lump of earth. It is important that the depth of the hole is slightly greater than the height of the plant’s root system. The main thing is that the depth is no less than the root. Otherwise, the plant will fall and take root poorly. Another important point. When planting a plant, you need to make sure that the cabbage rosette is not covered with soil. Otherwise, its growth will stop and the culture will die. If the seedlings are a little stretched out, plant them so that the first pair of true leaves is at soil level. Many people say that you need to water the hole and only then plant the plant there. I do it a little differently, I water the bed generously the day before planting, better evening the day before, then the ground is saturated with moisture and it is very convenient to make holes. We planted and watered our seedlings thoroughly. If the weather promises to be sunny in the following days, be sure to shade the plants.
Cabbage bed under the bottles we cooked in early spring. Red and black currant bushes and old honeysuckle bushes grew in this place. Since all the bushes were already very old and replacements had already been planted, the decision was made to uproot them. After clearing the bushes, a trench was made into which they placed all of last year's compost, leaves from trees, the remains of unused mulch, in general, everything was found at that moment in the garden. Everything was sprinkled well with Radiance 3, spilled with Em-bio and plain water, because... the ground was very dry. We added a little orgavit, rotted manure and soil. Everything was leveled and left just in time for the April rains and snows. And when the time came, we planted our cabbage under the bottles in this bed.
Since there is not enough land), I really love mixed plantings, and this year I also planted a lot mixed plantings. Cabbage in the garden grows with beets around the perimeter and definitely marigolds,
cabbage in bottles generally in close proximity - on one side marigolds and calendula, on the other squash and bush zucchini with peas.
There is enough space and food for everyone.
Further care was the same for both cabbages - feeding with herbal infusion, Ecofus, Em preparations, and in August with ash and fish meal. But the result is different.
So if you want to get more early harvest(late and medium varieties of cabbage) can be safely planted under bottles,
If, on the contrary, you want to harvest the crop later, you can plant it through seedlings. I always plant summer varieties of cabbage in a greenhouse through seedlings.
I came to the conclusion that, after all, cabbage grows better in nutritious soils and when good watering and timely feeding. I am satisfied with both planting methods, so I will continue to use them in the future. 
Try, experiment and have a good harvest!
Oksana Papsheva
"FERTILITY", Chelyabinsk
