Any person who has experience working with woodworking tools can make it with their own hands. However, if you do not follow the technology, there will be drafts in the room, heat will begin to escape outside, and the hygiene procedure will not be so comfortable.
Material selection
If you decide to make a door leading to the bathhouse, then know: not just any type of wood is suitable for this. For this design, it is best to use birch, exotic varieties, oak or aspen. Affordable traditional pine, in principle, can be used to make doors, but it is better to use this material for the entrance structure, and not for a washing room or steam room. Glass doors are often used today as they are excellent at withstanding high temperatures, humidity and are easy to maintain. The only drawback The cost is high, and making such a canvas yourself is quite difficult.
You can make it with your own hands from metal, which is characterized by durability and strength. Most often, such doors act as entrance doors. Heat-resistant plastic also has excellent performance qualities, including: durability, strength, resistance to temperature and humidity changes, as well as reliability. If you wish, you can order a canvas whose surface imitates natural wood or any other materials.
Preparatory work
It is still recommended to make doors to the bathhouse with your own hands from wood, despite the fact that modern market Similar products are presented in a wide range. To do this, you should prepare a tongue and groove board, the dimensions of which are 30x200 mm; you will also need timber for tying the canvas square section with a side of 30 mm, self-tapping screws, reinforcement timber 30 x 20 mm, glue for filling the grooves and hanging hinges. If you are planning to build an entrance door, then you should additionally prepare thermal insulation, nails for fixing the dermantine, the dermantine itself, fishing line or wire, as well as fittings. will be made from 11x6 cm timber. You will need polyurethane foam, trim strips, clamps, a screwdriver, a plane, a tape measure, a hammer, a hammer drill with a set of drills, as well as anchors. You can use a plane to cut wood and a plane to process the material. You can’t do without a caliper, a level and scissors.
Sizing
Before you make a bathhouse door with your own hands, you must decide on the size of the canvas. Previously, the dimensions of this design were smaller compared to those common today. Not big sizes helped reduce heat loss. Old Russian baths were insulated only with moss, which is why the need to preserve heat was urgent. Modern buildings are distinguished by high thermal insulation qualities, so they can install doors in full height. The standard dimensions of this design are 2000x800 mm.
Working on the door leaf
So, you are thinking about how to make a bathhouse door with your own hands. What will be the order of work? At the first stage, the tongue and groove boards are opened along their length. The height dimension mentioned above also includes the strapping of the canvas; for this you should use a beam 30 mm wide.
The timber is fixed along the perimeter of the canvas, so it is necessary to make a fairly simple calculation: from 2000 you need to subtract 60, which will allow you to get 1940 mm; it is with this parameter in mind that the boards should be cut.
At the second stage, the number of boards in the canvas should be determined. The width of the element together with the strapping will be 800 mm, while without the strapping this parameter is 740 mm. Standard width tongue and groove board - 200 mm, so one such unit must be cut lengthwise using a jigsaw. The protruding tenon should be removed from the board, which is done using a plane. The end part should be made perfectly flat, there should be no deformations or depressions on it. After the boards are ready, they must be assembled into one sheet, which will allow for a control check. The timber for strapping is cut into 4 sections, two of which will have a size of 2000 mm, while the other two will be 740 mm each.
Gluing boards
Now we need to assemble the door (to the bathhouse). It’s not difficult to do this with your own hands. At the next stage, you can glue the boards together using white glue. Glue should be poured into the groove, securing the elements at the corners with clamps. When assembling, craftsmen advise using a wooden mallet to connect the grooves more tightly. If you have a workbench, the canvas is placed on it, and it is possible to recreate the effect of a press for better gluing. After this, the canvas is left for several days for the glue to dry. Then it is processed with a plane. Please note: you don’t need to remove a lot of material; it will be enough to process the surface a little so that it becomes smooth and free of splinters and cross-layers.
Fabric binding
When making a door to a bathhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to consider the technology step by step in advance. At the next stage, it involves tying the fabric. The timber is fixed to the ends with self-tapping screws, and at the corners the workpieces are fastened with an overlap or using a tenon. Self-tapping screws should be selected so that their length is greater than the width of the beam. The fittings should be immersed in the boards by 3 cm.
In order to increase rigidity, it is necessary to strengthen cross bars. If you are making an entrance door, the strips should be installed on the outer surface. In the future, it will be possible to place insulation between them. If the door will separate the rooms inside, then two strips will be enough, which are attached at the same distance from the bottom and top.
Final works
If the master decided to make the door to the bathhouse with his own hands, he can consider the technology step by step in this article. On final stage you can begin attaching the fittings, namely handles and door hinges. If the structure will be located inside, then it is best to abandon the use of metal handles, as they will heat up under the influence high temperature. This may cause burns. Better to use wooden crafts, which are safe to use, and you can make them yourself. To finish the canvas, it is best to coat the wood with impregnation. deep penetration, the composition must be environmentally friendly, not emit harmful substances and protect the material from decay processes.
Door installation
Do-it-yourself installation of doors in a bathhouse is carried out in such a way as to prevent tilting or skewing of the racks, otherwise the door will close and open with tension. For racks, it is best to use an 11-centimeter beam, the thickness of which is 6 cm. The width of the racks should be 7 cm greater than the width of the canvas. It is recommended to prepare the beam by cutting out a groove in it in which it will be placed door leaf. The gap between it and the box should be several millimeters, since the wood will expand under the influence of humidity and temperature. As you can see, it is not so difficult to make doors for a bathhouse with your own hands. You can prepare the drawings yourself or borrow them from the article.
By the way, the doors can open outward, and the slats must be placed there. This will reduce heat loss and minimize drafts.
If, when making a groove, you notice that it is too large, then you can use ones that are located around the perimeter of the box. The latter is attached to the opening using long anchors; the holes between the frame and the wall should be sealed construction foam and decorate with platbands. The entrance door to the bathhouse can be hung with your own hands when the frame is completely ready. If the structure is heavy enough, then you should purchase reinforced curtains in the amount of three pieces. Two of them are located on top of the canvas, while the third is located below. In order to prevent unauthorized removal of the door, one curtain is attached in the opposite direction, strengthening the fittings in weight.
Making doors from lining
You can make a door to a bathhouse from clapboard yourself using the same technology described above, but the next step will be finishing the material. For this, a lining is prepared, the length of which should be slightly greater than a line running at an angle of 45° from one long side to the other. The material is secured into the groove with self-tapping screws, and subsequent installation of all boards is carried out using the same method. The lining should not interfere with the strapping, and the cut ends should be hidden. Each plank is numbered from top to bottom, after which the trim is disassembled and cut with a hacksaw along the drawn lines. Such work should be performed on both sides of the canvas.
If you are making wooden bathhouse doors with your own hands, then after cutting the finishing material you need to put the cut pieces back in place, attaching the elements to the panel with three self-tapping screws in the grooves at an angle of 45°. The outer boards should be fixed at the top so that the strapping hides their heads. It is important to prevent cracking of the groove; to do this, holes are drilled in it 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the screw.
Finishing
The door to the bathhouse can be treated with fine grain sandpaper with your own hands. It should be passed around all corners, eliminating the surface from unevenness, as well as rounding sharp edges. Some craftsmen advise using this tool to effectively process the edges with shaped cutters.
The doors to the bathhouse are now ready! You can decorate the structure with your own hands. To do this, the canvas is trimmed with decorative strips, shaped materials and slats.
Conclusion
The best option would be if you make the door from one type of hardwood. It could be a linden tree. These materials are supported by the coefficient of thermal expansion, which affects the deformation of products. When making a structure from wood of one species, it will be possible to ensure that the deformation is minimal. The only exception can be the case when the canvas is made of pine boards, and the remaining elements are made of linden. The canvas will be covered by sheathing from exposure to moisture and steam, so the coefficient of thermal expansion can be neglected.
Particular attention is paid to the quality of lumber, which should not have through knots or defects. Their presence is permissible only if the wood will be used to make a door leaf covered with finishing. If you don't have it in your arsenal circular saw or a router, then you can replace these tools with a chisel and a hacksaw. But only a true professional can make a door “on the knee”.
A reliable door to a bathhouse, made with your own hands from wood or other material, not only serves to retain heat inside the building. This is also an element general design, which must meet the aesthetic needs of the owner. The choice of material for a bath door needs to be given Special attention: the entrance can be made of treated tongue-and-groove boards or lining, lined with insulation. Internal doors do not need thermal insulation properties, therefore both wooden and glass doors to the steam room are considered equally good.
You can make a classic wooden bath door with your own hands without any special skills. But for this you have to choose quality wood, which requires minimal processing. The lumber should not have knots, cracks or traces of rot, and its surface should be smooth. The boards must be well dried, otherwise the door made from them will move.
The best materials for making doors:
- boards that are processed at the enterprise so that they have a groove and a protrusion (tongue and groove);
- eurolining, which is a ready-made wooden elements with a groove and a tenon for connecting the canvas;
- plywood and bars (suitable only for the entrance area).
If the owner has the skills of a carpenter and necessary tools and equipment, then he can afford to independently make a paneled structure from edged boards.
When making a door for a bathhouse in entrance group you can choose any type of wood: it is less exposed to high temperatures than entrance structure to the steam room. It is better to make internal panels from hardwood (oak, linden, etc.), which do not emit resin.
To insulate the fabric, you may need an EPS sheet, roll insulation And upholstery(leatherette). When making internal doors in a bathhouse, they are not needed.
How to make doors to a bathhouse with your own hands?
There are several ways to make a door leaf that are accessible to a person with minimal woodworking skills:
- assembly of a massive shield from boards and bars;
- production of typesetting cloth from cross members(eurolining);
- frame-panel fabric made of sheet material.
Installing a door in an opening consists of the following steps:
- making a box;
- securing the box in the opening;
- hanging canvas;
- insulation front door.
To make a door to a bathhouse, you need to perform all these operations sequentially. The final result depends on the accuracy of the work and the accuracy of the fit of all parts door block.
Tools
To complete each stage of work, you need your own tools, but if the farm does not have complex instruments, you can rent them. To collect input or inner door to the bathhouse with your own hands step by step, you will need the following:
- hand saw or circular saw for cutting wood;
- plane and sandpaper;
- jointer (for selecting quarters);
- chisel and hammer;
- drill with screwdriver;
- hand router;
- fasteners (screws, nails);
- measuring instruments and building level;
- polyurethane foam.
The fittings for bathhouse doors may differ from those used for hanging doors in the house. The loops serve as a decorative element, and the design wooden bath allows the use of forged and shaped products. You can make your own handles from wood. When buying ready-made ones, you should prefer the same material, because in a steam room it does not heat up as much as metal.
Measurements
The size of the door for a bathhouse is determined by the size of the opening. For accuracy, measurements are taken in two places, vertically and horizontally. If the door needs to be inserted into a log bathhouse, then the opening should be prepared first, and then measurements should be taken:
- a groove is made at the ends of the logs facing the opening;
- a 50 mm thick block is inserted into it so that part of the casing protrudes into the opening;
- make a crossbar and threshold from a thick board with a recess for casing bars and secure it at the top and bottom of the opening;
- measurements for the box are made between the side bars and the upper and lower casing strips.
It is easier to determine the dimensions of the door leaf after installing the frame in the opening, measuring the vertical and horizontal distances in the vestibule.
Fabrication
The simplest option DIY doors to the steam room - solid wood panel. To make it, you need to select tongue and groove boards and lay them out on a flat surface. At the ends there are curved stripes - traces of the annual rings of the tree. Adjacent parts should be positioned so that the direction of the rings is opposite to each other. This way the door strips will not be damaged by moisture.
The grooves of the boards and their protrusions must be connected so that a minimum gap remains. Cut 2 bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the door leaf. The bars are mounted on a board panel at the top and bottom of the structure. The connection can be made different ways:
- Place the block on the surface of the boards in the transverse direction. Fasten with self-tapping screws, screwing them in from the side of the block so that there are no traces of fasteners left on the front side. Sometimes they do it differently and drive the fasteners into the front side of the door, recessing the heads into the wood. The recesses are covered up special composition from glue and small sawdust. For the strength of such a structure, it is advisable to install a jib located diagonally between 2 parallel sections of the bar.
- Connection without fasteners is more difficult. To make a canvas, connect the boards and place a 5x5 cm block on top, cut on both sides. Its profile resembles a trapezoid. The narrowing is 1.5 cm and is performed smoothly along the entire length of the part. Draw lines on the canvas corresponding to the profile of the bar. Cut out a groove, deepening it by ½ the thickness of the block and observing the angle of inclination of the side surfaces. Remove the wood from the groove with a chisel and level the surfaces. Push the bars in from the wide side of the groove. In a room with high humidity, the mount will not dry out.
From lining
To assemble a door from a lining, you need boards at least 2.5 cm thick, with selected quarters on the sides facing the inside of the panel. The length of the vertical bars of the strapping should be equal to the height of the canvas, and the horizontal bars - to its width. Connect the frame parts using the half-timber method, selecting part of the wood at the ends of the planks. Lubricate the recesses with glue, connect the parts and tighten them with clamps. After drying, drill through holes and insert wooden dowels into them using glue.
Cut the lining into equal sections. Their length is equal to the distance between the boards in the selected quarters (vertical or horizontal). Cut off the side with the groove at the outer lining, and place the part in the frame, in the groove of the selected quarter. The remaining elements are joined, pressing the tenons tightly into the grooves. Cut the last board so that it fits tightly into the remaining gap. Attach a wide glazing bead around the perimeter of the frame.
Frame-panel
When making such a sheet, it is worth considering that in order to insulate it, a heat-insulating layer must be placed inside the door. Therefore, you need to prepare an EPS sheet or other material in advance. Make the frame from a 3x3 cm block:
- choose ½ thickness at the ends for a length of 3 cm from the edge;
- connect long and short bars into a frame, placing the selected parts on top of each other so that the joining surfaces form one plane;
- screw the screws into the joints of the planks;
- make 1-2 transverse spacers, choosing a groove in the long planks in the same way as at the ends.
Attach plywood or MDF to the frame on 1 side of the door. Place insulation between the bars and foam the gaps between the EPS and the slats. Cover the top with a sheet of plywood and attach it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter and to the crossbars.
Insulation
If the entrance door to the bathhouse is made of boards or lining, then it must be insulated to reduce heat loss during heating. For insulation, felt, batting or polyethylene foam is used. The material must be measured according to the size of the door, cut and secured to the canvas with furniture staples or nails, leaving free edges at least 5 cm wide.
Leatherette is well suited for door trim. The material is cut in such a way that the edges can be folded under the insulation by 2-2.5 cm. To ensure that the upholstery lies flat, the material must be fastened from the middle. The fasteners are decorative upholstery nails with large heads. To form a convex pattern between the nails, you need to pull the line tight.
Along the perimeter of the door you need to attach leatherette rollers, inside of which there is insulation. The edges of the rollers are nailed to the door with decorative nails in small increments (5-10 cm). The seam can be made decorative: hammer nails tightly, in 2 rows, in a zigzag, etc.
Making a box
The door frame to the bathhouse is made of thick block (at least 5 cm thick). Along the outer edge of the parts, on the side where the door will open, you need to select quarters along the entire length. Their depth should be equal to the thickness of the canvas, and their width should be about 3 cm. Connect the door frame parts in the corners with screws or nails, having first removed part of the internal projection in the vestibule.
Installation
The door frame is installed using anchors if the bathhouse is made of concrete or brick. The box must be fixed in the opening with wedges, aligned vertically in two planes. Check the horizontality of the threshold and the top bar. Drill 2 holes in the sides for the anchors and insert the fasteners. Fill the gaps with polyurethane foam.
If the bathhouse is made of a log house, then on the inside of the sidewalls you need to make a groove for the previously installed casing. To do this, parallel cuts are made, and the wood is selected with a chisel. The box is attached to the beam, and not to the logs of the log house. The threshold and top cross member must be nailed to the casing strips. This design of the doorway in the bathhouse is not ventilated, and the gaps cannot be foamed.
After installing the frame, you need to hang the bath door. When using shaped hinges, the blade should be installed in the opening and secured with wedges to obtain a uniform gap of 2-3 mm around the perimeter. Attach the hinge bracket to the frame with nails or self-tapping screws, and the shaped strip to the canvas.
If the hinges are overhead, then you will need to make recesses for them on the edge of the canvas and in the vestibule. Attach the hinge cards in the recesses so that they do not protrude above the surface of the wood. The pin parts are fixed on the frame with the pins facing up, and the mating part is fixed on the canvas.
Finally, platbands are attached around the box, which cover the junction of the wall and the box. Door handles are placed on comfortable height. If necessary, install the padlock, latch or hook for locking.
Anyone who has the necessary tools, special skills, and quite a lot of time and desire can make their own bath doors.
In any bathhouse there are several rooms that perform different functions, so each will need its own door to enclose it. There should be at least two doors in the bathhouse: the entrance and the one from the steam room to a special relaxation room.
There are three varieties bath doors:
Main features of bath doors
When creating these doors, two main criteria should be taken into account - high temperature and humidity level inside the bathhouse. First distinguishing feature such a door is its size, the second is the materials used, and the last is the fittings used.
Bath door size
When making bath doors, all sizes are determined according to the principle of greatest heat retention at the moment of closing and opening the doors. In this regard, all bath doors are smaller in size when compared to ordinary ones. The required height of sauna doors is 165–185 cm from the floor itself, and the width is 65–70 cm. It is worth paying attention to the threshold, the height of which should be more than 15 cm. However, such small door sizes are used exclusively for steam rooms.
Materials for the correct manufacture of bath doors
For bath doors you can also use glass, And wood. Glass must withstand very high temperatures. However, the most best material for bath doors it is still wood.
Here, as a rule, it is used - linden, larch, aspen, oak.
Accessories
Fittings for bath doors must be made of materials with very low thermal conductivity, as well as resistance to high humidity. If you use, for example, metal latches and handles, you can easily get burned from touching them. In this regard, fittings are usually made of wood.
This applies to latches and handles, but it is advisable to take brass hinges, but if you couldn’t find similar ones, then metal hinges should definitely be painted with a special anti-corrosion paint. Since the sauna doors open outwards, the possibility of getting burned is almost impossible.
Manufacturing of bath doors
After determining the type of doors, you can begin special work by creation. For beginners, this process may well seem quite complicated, but this is purely a matter of experience. If you have never made a door before, then first you can buy cheap boards and practice on them at will. Next, this will allow you to make bath doors without problems.
Since the most optimal door for a bathhouse is considered to be a door made of wood, we will use its example to look at the entire process of creating bathhouse doors. Before making bathhouse doors, as a rule, you need to make purchases. Here you can't do without materials:
- tongue and groove floorboard (width 50 mm, thickness 30 mm);
- special pins and screws;
- linings (dimensions - 12x96 mm);
- loop (three pieces);
- timber for strapping (dimensions - 60x80 mm).
The tool you can't do without is:
- hand circular saw;
- hammer and mallet;
- milling cutter with a set of cutters;
- screwdriver;
- clamps;
- level, caliper, depth gauge, tape measure.
Making a door leaf
Making a door should always begin with the formation of the leaf. To do this you need to do this:
- It is necessary to take special tongue and groove boards and cut them to the required length.
- Then you need to cut off the tenon from one of the boards, after which the surface is jointed on both sides of each board, you need to get an absolutely flat surface. As a rule, it is enough to remove 2 mm to achieve the desired result. Ideally, you should get smooth boards with a thickness of 26 mm.
- You can start assembling the door leaf. First, you should make a rough assembly, insert the tenon of the board into the groove of another, and connect them as tightly as possible. As a result, you can get a canvas slightly larger in width than necessary. It's not scary. To get the canvas of the required width, you will need to cut a little from the last and first boards.
- Having measured right size, smaller by 60-70 mm from the width of the entire door, and having marked it on the canvas, you need to remove the last and first boards. On circular saw everything unnecessary is cut off from them. It is important not to cut off the side on the last board where the groove is located, but on the first board the side where the tenon is located.
- Next, the boards are assembled into one sheet. To do this, you need to lay out the boards on the surface of the workbench and insert the tenon of one board into a special groove of the previous one, having previously coated the groove inside with ordinary PVA glue. For good connection Each board should be hammered with a mallet.
- The canvas is left to dry for two to three days. To ensure that the canvas does not move at all during the drying period, it must be securely fastened to the workbench. To do this, you need to fix two strips of wood on a workbench, between which the door leaf is placed longitudinally. For normal fixation, you need to drive wooden wedges between the door leaf and the strip. A special sheet of chipboard is laid on top of the canvas and pressed against the table with clamps.
- After drying, you need to check the canvas for minor defects. The cracks are sealed with a special mixture of sawdust and glue, and all irregularities are smoothed out with a regular plane.
We make fittings and door trim
While the canvas dries, you can start creating bolts and handles, as well as a special trim for the door:
- In the previously obtained bar blanks, you need to select a groove. To do this, using an end mill and a router, you first need to select a deep and narrow groove. Its width is approximately 26 mm, depth - 25 mm. After this, a wide but shallow groove should be selected on top of it (depth is 10 mm and width is 50 mm). A similar stepped groove in the trim is needed for fabric that has been lined with clapboard. The wide one should fit the lining, and the deep one should fit all the tongue and groove boards.
- On the horizontal bars of the strapping, a stepped tenon is made using a cutter, which corresponds to the groove. When finished, you need to assemble the trim box and check the correctness of the angles with a square. If necessary, sharpen the groove with a milling cutter to obtain absolutely right angles.
- To make bolts and handles, it is necessary to use scraps of boards and bars or pre-purchased blanks.
Cladding, door assembly
Now all that remains is to cover the canvas with clapboard, assemble the wooden bath doors together and make a door frame. To do this you need to do the following:
After all this, you can begin creating the door frame. To do this, we use beams with dimensions of 100x100 mm. To create boxes from them, it is enough to cut them to a certain length and select the quarters using a cutter. It is important that the depth of such a quarter is approximately 5 mm greater. This is extremely important, since in a bathhouse under the influence of constant humidity wooden door will swell and can easily jam. In addition, you need to remember that the vertical top bar will be slightly smaller than the width of the box, and the threshold should be at least 10-15 cm in height. To combine the box beams, you need to cut grooves along all the edges of the racks from the bottom and top, and along the edges of the top cut out tenons for the trim and threshold. Before installing the door frame, you need to assemble it and check with a square that all the angles are correct. If necessary, you need to sharpen the grooves and process special means from rotting and begin installing the door in place.
How to easily install bath doors
When the doors are completely ready, they can be installed. Installation begins with making doorway special grooves. We make them approximately 10 mm larger than the width of the door frame, this is necessary so that during installation you can easily adjust the vertical position of your doors and spread them out using wedges. Then the box is installed in the grooves. It is important not to confuse exactly where the doors will open.
Important! It should be remembered that the doors in the bathhouse should swing outward.
Then you need to install a horizontal top beam and support it with vertical posts. After this, you need to place the threshold on the bottom. Using a level, we monitor the absolutely vertical position of the box. Having been well aligned vertically, wedges should be driven into all gaps between the frame and the wall, this will fix the box in place. We fix door frame to the wall using dowels, having drilled special holes for them in advance. When the frame is well secured, you can begin installing hinges for the door leaf. The very first hinge should be at a height of about 25 cm from the top of the door, the second - 50 cm, and the third - 25 cm from the bottom edge. This will help protect your doors from skewing, especially if your door is very heavy. Now you need to hang the door leaf, fill the entire perimeter of the frame with a felt roller and seal all the cracks.
Making a sauna door is quite a difficult task, and it must be approached responsibly. True, the result can exceed all the wildest expectations.
A bathhouse in the country is as integral an attribute and a source of pride for our person on vacation as a barbecue. And just like a solid device for preparing delicious meat, good bath you can build it yourself. As a last resort - order finished log house assembled, and make the doors and windows yourself. The sauna door should be perfectly steam-tight and easy to open. If it is poorly fitted to the box, then heat will be blown out through the cracks. Achieve this High Quality quite possible if you make it yourself.
Types of bath doors: pros and cons
There is a huge difference between the door from the dressing room to the street and the door to the steam room or washing room. Although all these doors are bath doors.
Doors to the street
Such a door can be anything - wooden, metal with some kind of cladding, plastic, MDF or chipboard. The main requirement is that it must have good thermal insulation. It is unlikely that you will like to sit on a bench, relaxing, after a steam room and a font, and at the same time feel the cold from the door. But it does not have to be resistant to high temperatures and very high humidity.
- Door made of metal. It is very convenient both in operation and installation. Pros: provides excellent tightness, does not change shape, withstands deformation of the log house to a certain extent, does not corrode if properly processed, retains heat well. Cons: such a door is quite expensive, there is no good insulation Condensation will definitely accumulate. If you have a swimming pool outside, then in winter, when you run back after water procedures, you risk freezing to this door if you touch it with a wet hand. However, you can choose an option covered in wood or with wooden handles. It is impossible to make a metal door yourself - you can only install a ready-made one.
On metal door with a well-insulated box, condensation will not accumulate, but in winter it is dangerous to touch it wet hands With outside
- The door is made of plastic. It has the same advantages and the same disadvantages as metal, although it is relatively cheaper, and it is impossible to freeze to it in winter. You won’t be able to do it yourself either - all you have to do is install a ready-made one.
A plastic door does not freeze like a metal one and is cheaper
- Door made of wood. A wooden bathhouse is the most logical option. Pros: environmentally friendly, with proper fitting - airtight, has the ability to deform along with the log house without collapsing, provides excellent thermal insulation, and is quite easy to install. Cons: without proper treatment, it is susceptible to infection by fungus and mold. You can make such a door yourself, but it’s quite difficult process, accessible only to people with carpentry skills.
TO wooden log house A wooden entrance door is most suitable, but it must be protected from rotting
- Door from metal frame with filling. The door is made of a welded “skeleton”; any non-flammable insulation can be placed inside; it is sheathed on both sides with plywood, chipboard or board. The advantages are the same as those of a metal door, but it is much cheaper, and its thermal insulation properties are much better, it is impossible to freeze to it, and making it yourself is much easier than a wooden one. There are practically no downsides.
When choosing insulation for a metal entrance door to a bathhouse, you need to remember its purpose and operating conditions.
Corrugated cardboard, which is positioned as insulation, cannot be used as insulation. Its thermal conductivity is very high.
Corrugated cardboard does not retain heat well, so it cannot be used as insulation for an entrance door
In the same way you can't use foam blocks, they are very flammable and emit a lot of toxic gases when burned.
Foam blocks emit toxic substances when heated and are very flammable, so bathhouse doors are not insulated with them
Insulation can be done polyurethane foam, which will penetrate into all corners of your structure, but it is also flammable and also emits gases when burned.
It is also not recommended to use polyurethane foam to insulate a bathhouse door, because it releases harmful substances when heated
It is better to use non-flammable mineral wool, it is environmentally friendly and cheap, but due to its high hygroscopicity, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier on both sides - foil or polyethylene. However, it can “settle” inside the door during operation.
When insulating with mineral wool, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier frame
Excellent insulation for such doors is heat-reflecting insulation “Isover” made of polyurethane foam with one-sided or two-sided foil coating. It has minimal thermal conductivity and is not flammable.
Fiberglass insulation Izover “Sauna” retains heat well and has a special foil coating to protect against wet steam
The most The best decision- ready-made Rokwool insulation. This mineral wool basalt rocks, non-flammable, produced in the form of timber or canvas, therefore not subject to deformation.
Rokwool insulation is made from stone wool and is sold in the form of slabs or timber
Doors to the steam room
Doors to the steam room are used in much more difficult conditions, and their material is subject to more stringent requirements.
- Door made of metal. Metal is not used as a door to the steam room.
- Glass door. It's very beautiful and quite comfortable. Pros: the inside of the bathhouse and the thermometer are visible, it is clear to what state the steam has been accelerated, what the temperature is and whether anyone has become ill; in terms of its heat-resistant qualities, glass is a leader among door bath materials, it does not heat up or burn. Fungus will never grow on such a door, and caring for it is quite simple. Cons: it is almost impossible to make a glass door with your own hands, and buying it is quite expensive. In addition, such a design requires a mandatory clearance of about 2-3 centimeters at the bottom, due to which a draft will appear in the steam room. In addition, due to temperature and seasonal deformations of a wooden bath house, the door will warp slightly, which can lead to cracking of the glass. For all these reasons, glass doors are more often used not in steamy wooden baths, but in saunas or hammams.
Glass doors are not used in steam rooms due to possible damage due to temperature deformations
- Door made of heat-resistant plastic. In terms of its qualities, pros and cons, it is very similar to glass. The only difference is that it is more resistant to deformation than a glass door.
Heat-resistant plastic is more resistant to deformation, so it can be used as a material for a steam room door
- Door made of wood. This is the most logical and correct option for a wooden bathhouse on the site. Pros: the ability to build it yourself at a low final cost, equally low cost when buying a ready-made door, ease of installation, good thermal insulation, environmental friendliness, beauty. Cons: relative fragility, susceptibility to swelling, deformation, rotting and fungus. But such a door must satisfy the most stringent requirements. Any gap will be a path for steam to escape and heat loss. On the one hand, the door must withstand extremely high temperatures, on the other - quite low. Therefore, there is a high probability of condensation forming on it inner surface, and perhaps, if it is a sandwich with poor thermal insulation, then on the inside, which is really bad - it will begin to rot quickly.
The wooden door to the bathhouse must be absolutely airtight and withstand large temperature changes
- Wooden door with insulation. When making a door from thin boards, insulation is used. Frame assembled door laid with insulating material and then covered with a sheet of plywood or chipboard. You can cover the door with insulation boards. Many ready-made wooden doors for a bathhouse are already a sandwich of frame, cladding and insulation inside. The requirements for insulation are exactly the same as for a metal frame.
Wooden bathhouse frame door It is better to insulate with mineral wool
- Combined door - wood + glass. A wooden door with a heat-resistant glass insert has the advantages of wooden and glass doors, although it is cheaper and has no gaps at the bottom. It’s easier to make it with your own hands than pure glass. But it is more expensive than a wooden one and much more labor-intensive to manufacture: such a door can only be made by a true craftsman.
It is much more difficult to make a combined door to a bathhouse than a wooden one
Photo gallery: samples of bath doors
It is most logical to install a wooden door in a log bathhouse 
The door in the bathhouse can be decorated with a wooden carved handle 
Craftsmen create unique designer doors for a bath 
glass door with a pattern can be placed at the entrance to the sauna 
Narrow door in the steam room helps reduce heat loss 
Doors made of wood are often a real work of art 
Plastic doors do not heat up like metal ones and last longer than wooden ones
Making a wooden door for a steam room
Let's assume that our bathhouse is a log house. This is the most common and optimal design.
Doors and windows can only be inserted into a frame, from the moment of manufacture of which sufficient time has passed, ideally at least a year, i.e. after its complete shrinkage. But even after this, you have to constantly caulk the building, since the logs are constantly moving relative to each other.
Choosing a door size
The door will be exposed to extremes of heat and humidity. It is very important that steam not only does not escape when closed door, but also so that it goes out to a minimum when people enter and exit. Therefore, the door to the steam room is traditionally made low.
Its height depends on the height of the finished ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of “floors” - shelves. But very high ceiling it never happens in the bathhouse - usually it is at the level of 220–230 centimeters.
The steam is at the top, and if it is not dispersed with brooms and towels, you can easily notice that its thickness is usually 60–70 centimeters. With a well-designed bathhouse, this is enough. The steam cools and sinks, fresh portions take its place, but the thickness of this layer is practically unchanged. The height of the door lintel should not reach the vapor layer, preferably even with some margin.
We count: 230–60 = 170 centimeters, subtract the “reserve” of 10 centimeters, the result: optimal height doors -160 centimeters.
Another condition is a high threshold. It prevents the coldest air, which is usually located near the floor, from entering the steam room when people enter and exit and protects against drafts when the door is closed. There is another funny advantage: when we raise our leg, we involuntarily remember the low ceiling and avoid unnecessary head impacts.
The width of the door depends not only on the above factors, but also on your convenience. Usually it is not very wide, but not too narrow so as not to squeeze through. Let's take the width to be 70 centimeters.
The drawing indicates the dimensions of the door and door frame
The door to the steam room should always open outward. This is the most important safety requirement. In case of fumes or heatstroke, it is much easier to push the door out than to pull it towards you.
Preferred Materials
The door should not be greatly deformed, swell or dry out due to changes in temperature and humidity. Therefore, it must be made of dense, high-quality wood.
Wood selection
There are several options for choosing wood for making a bathhouse door:
We choose coniferous pine - this is a harmonious relationship between price, properties and ease of processing. She has quite high density- 520 kg/m.
Selecting the profile of boards and timber
A purely wooden door can be two- or three-layer - the middle is made of tongue-and-groove boards, sheathed on both sides with clapboard, in this case a vertical frame is required. But this is a labor-intensive and material-intensive task.
It is quite difficult to make a door from a tongue-and-groove board with a vertical frame
It is especially difficult to correctly make a strapping profile: this requires professional carpentry tools.
The profile of the strapping must be very precisely adjusted to the existing tongue and groove board. For this you need professional tools and special skills
We will make a single-layer door without insulation. This means that it must be assembled from thick boards without cracks. This in turn means that the board must be tongue-and-groove.
A tongue and groove board is a board with a groove on one side along its entire length and a protrusion on the other. Products from such a board are assembled like a Lego set: a tongue and groove is inserted into a groove, often with glue. A correctly produced tongue and groove board has no roughness, knots or defects and is not deformed in a helical manner.
The tongue and groove board must be straight and level, without helical bends
Knots will fall out over time, and when exposed to temperature and moisture this will happen very quickly. If you still couldn’t buy a board without knots, you can restore the boards - cut out the knots with a so-called Forstner drill and insert plugs with glue in their place. But this can only be done for the outside of the door.
Any knots in the board can be drilled out using a special tool and wooden plugs can be inserted in their place.
To produce a door, we also need a beam with a cross-section described by the formula c/d<2, где c и d - стороны бруса.
The beam must be rectangular in shape with an aspect ratio of 1:2 or less
Table: material calculation
| Position | Name | Specification | Quantity |
| 1 | Pine tongue and groove board | 46x125x3000 mm | 4 pieces |
| 2 | Profiled pine beam for strapping | 50x50x3000 | 1 piece |
| 3 | Pine timber for door frame | 60x130x3000 | 4 pieces |
| 4 | Simple pine board for platbands | 25x100x3000 | 4 pieces |
| 5 | Wooden bath handles | 2 pieces | |
| 6 | Beam for pigtail | 100x200x3000 | 2 pieces |
| 7 | Wood glue | ||
| 8 | Door hinges brass hinged | The orientation of the hinges is selected depending on the location of the door | 3 pieces |
| 9 | Wooden bath door locks | 2 pieces | |
| 10 | Anchor bolts, self-tapping screws |
Required Tools
We choose a tool that is familiar to us. Not every household has a milling machine, although it is more convenient and quicker for them to select grooves when staking and tying. But you can get by with a chisel and hammer. True, then the process will take much longer.
- Milling machine (or chisel).
- Hammer.
- Mallet.
- Clamps for fixing the door leaf (or a workbench with stops).
- Electric saw or jigsaw (or regular wood saw).
- Drill with a set of drills and grinding discs.
- Screwdriver.
- Planer, jointer (preferably electric).
- Vernier calipers, tape measure.
- Hydraulic level (or plumb line).
You can buy tongue-and-groove boards, or you can make them yourself - provided that you have a milling machine or a hand cutter and you know how to work with them.
Making a wooden door
- We cut out the required number of tongue and groove boards along the length of the door with a small margin. We calculate the number of boards by simply dividing the width of the door by the width of the board. The resulting fractional number is rounded to a whole number.
- We process the cut boards with a plane or jointer.
The tongue and groove board must be processed with a plane
- We assemble our door on a flat surface. It is better to do without glue, carefully aligning the tongues and grooves board by board and tapping each board with a mallet. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 millimeter.
- We secure the assembled canvas with clamps or stops with wedges. Once again we process the canvas with a plane and a drill with sanding attachments.
The tongue and groove boards are connected to each other so that the gap between them is no more than 1 mm
- Now you need to make a keyed connection. The cross-section of timber for dowels may be different. For example, the so-called “dovetail”.
Dovetail keyway connection
- We insert two beams cut according to the chosen shape, starting from the side, into the grooves selected with a saw on the future door leaf from the outside and fix them on each board with self-tapping screws.
- We mark the exact size of our door on the assembled structure and cut off the excess with a jigsaw. We remove the edges of the keys at 45 0. The leaf of a simple door without strapping is ready.
Video: door leaf assembly
Now you can start assembling the box and decorating the doorway.
Assembling the door frame and door frame
- Select the required grooves in the timber for the door frame. We assemble a door frame from timber using self-tapping screws according to the dimensions of the door leaf. We put the canvas in it. If it works out exactly, then we mark the places for the hanging loops - usually they are located 25 centimeters from the top and bottom, and the third one is in the middle.
- We select recesses in the door frame and door for hinged hinges so that they are on the outside. We put the hinges in place. We have a door assembled and ready for installation.
After assembling the leaf and door frame, hinges are inserted into them and a ready-made kit for installation is obtained
- Now you need to make a frame for the doorway. Since the log house is constantly “walking”, an ordinary door frame will not withstand the changing load. There is a special technology in which only vertical parts are fixed on the log house, which eliminates its deformation. We mark the hole for the door using a hydraulic level or plumb line and remove the wood according to the intended profile. The height of the opening should be 5–7 centimeters greater than the height of the door, so that there is freedom for deformation. We will then fill this gap with tow and cover it with platband. We trim the edges of the logs so that the platbands can be secured.
The opening is cut according to the existing dimensions of the already assembled door.
- We prepare timber of the appropriate profile for the casing. This must be done extremely accurately so that the jamb fits tightly onto the tenon. If the connection is too loose, you can add tow.
- Installation of the casing begins with the threshold, then vertical parts are installed - jambs, then the upper spacer element is installed. We fix the vertical parts on each log with nails. Horizontal ones cannot be fixed.
The casing is attached to the bathhouse frame only vertically
Wooden door installation
Video: installing a wooden door in a bathhouse
Making a glass door
It is almost impossible to completely make a glass door for a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, if the opening is completely non-standard and completely excludes the purchase of a ready-made door, then they cut the glass sheet of the required size, select and order the door frame, hinges and handles in the store. And it’s really good if you can buy a standard ready-made glass door. But you can install such a door yourself.
A glass door in a sauna house made of logs is absolutely impossible due to the deformation of the frame. It can only be installed in brick or block buildings.
Selecting glass door size
The size of the glass door is usually predetermined during the construction of the bathhouse. In addition, such doors are used not in steam rooms, but in saunas and hammams. Therefore there is no need to reduce the door height. There are preset dimensions for finished doors.
Ready-made glass doors have standard sizes
But sometimes, knowing in advance the desired size of the door, you can create the required opening when laying the bathhouse.
When building a bathhouse, you can lay an opening for a door of a specific size
Required Tools
- Drill, hammer drill.
- Set of hexagons and screwdrivers.
- Hammer.
- Hydraulic level (plumb line).
Table: required materials
Glass door installation
- To install, we disassemble the door, separating the glass from the frame, for which we unscrew the screws on the frame and the bolts on the hinges.
The finished kit is disassembled into two parts: glass and box
- Remove the threshold from the box.
- Using a hydraulic level, the top crossbar and vertical posts are placed in the doorway and secured to the opening with anchor bolts. Their heads, recessed into pre-made recesses, are closed with plugs.
The door frame elements are adjusted to the hydraulic level and fixed with anchor bolts
- If the box is absolutely vertical and the angles between the sides are exactly 90°, you can install glass. This must be done by two people - one holds the glass, the other fixes the hinges.
- Our door is ready.
A glass door made of tinted glass looks great in any bathhouse, the main thing is that it is not subject to stress when the building deforms
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Beautiful wooden handles complement the elegant glass door design
Doors to the bathhouse are the finishing touch in building your own health complex. The comfort of your holiday depends on their correct selection and installation, so do not be lazy to learn all the nuances and follow the step-by-step technology when installing them yourself.
- High degree of water and moisture resistance. It is important that not only the material itself does not collapse under such conditions, but also that the door does not become a place of settlement for fungi and bacteria.
- Good sealing. A poor fit of the door in the steam room will make it difficult to maintain the desired temperature in the room and make it more expensive. If the entrance door to the bathhouse is leaking, a hot person leaving the steam room will quickly catch a cold.
- Resistance to significant temperature changes. It is necessary that the door material can withstand severe frost during unheated periods (when the bathhouse is not in use) and does not suffer due to the strong heating of the steam room during relaxation.
All the described requirements are met by solid wood doors. In addition to them, metal-plastic (for the entrance) and glass (only for the steam room) are used. Options made from MDF, metal and other similar materials cannot be used in a bathhouse, since in such conditions they turn out to be impractical and unsafe.
Photo gallery: options for bath doors
Typical design of a sauna house with a modest door 
Fabulous bath and health complex 
Such a complex paneled door with carved platbands would be appropriate in a traditional bathhouse 
The modest entrance lobby looks good in a log house 
The entrance door to the bathhouse can be double-leaf 
The door to the steam room is traditionally made lower 
A metal-plastic door with a French layout is a very effective solution for a bathhouse 
Glass doors to the steam room look stylish in both transparent and matte versions
Table: comparison of doors made of different materials
| Door type | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|
| Solid wood |
|
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| Frame with wood cladding |
|
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| Glass |
|
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| Metal-plastic |
|
|
Video: how to choose the right door for a bathhouse
Determining the dimensions of the structure
Openings in self-built baths, as a rule, differ from standard ones. Therefore, before making a door and frame for it, it is worth carrying out basic calculations:
- Using a tape measure, measure the width and height of the opening according to the level to avoid errors due to skew.
- Subtract 6 cm from the resulting width and 3 cm from the height. This way you will get the external parameters of the box without taking into account the threshold. It is better to determine its thickness when the door is ready in order to level out possible errors.
- From the width of the box, subtract the thickness of the timber that you plan to use (the most popular is 110x60 mm) and another 6 mm (the required gap on both sides). This will be the final width of the finished door.
- To determine the height of the door, subtract the thickness of the beam and another 18 mm from the height of the frame (3 mm gap at the top and 15 mm ventilation gap at the bottom).
If the result obtained differs from standard models by only 1–2 cm, you can make a standard door and simply use thicker bars to secure the frame in the opening.
How to make a wooden door to a bathhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
A wooden door is the most common option for a bathhouse. Despite the existence of new technologies, wood remains the most popular material for all types of bath doors: entrance, interior, and steam rooms. In order for them to last a long time, you should not be satisfied with inexpensive models, as they will quickly swell from moisture. It is necessary to choose the right breed, for example:
- Oak. This is a very dense wood that is not prone to swelling, but it is difficult to process and is prone to cracking.
- Larch. Solid wood of this species is optimal for wet rooms; it has natural antiseptic properties, so it does not rot, does not become moldy, and is not attacked by wood-boring beetles.
- Aspen. The material is inexpensive, is not afraid of overdrying and is well preserved in damp rooms.
Sometimes light, fragrant linden is used for doors, but it rots quite quickly. Pine analogues are also popular, but along with a pleasant smell, such wood emits a sticky resin. Spruce is not as resinous, but less moisture resistant, so it is also not suitable for a bath.
Regardless of what type of wood you prefer, the solid wood must be of high quality, without knots, otherwise they will all fall out during use. The optimal moisture content of the material is 15%.
Stacked wooden doors
Wooden doors of the type-setting type are assembled from identical parts, for example, a tongue-and-groove floorboard. This is the optimal way to make doors for a beginning craftsman. Despite the simplicity of work, typesetting canvases can look very attractive, especially if you choose decorative forged hinges and handles for them. They look best in traditional log cabins (real or imitation) in a rustic style.
Photo gallery: stacked wooden doors
The original entrance to the bathhouse is complemented by a simple inlaid door 
Varnishing the front door makes it more noble 
A simple door to a bathhouse looks stylish thanks to brutal fittings 
Such an original door to the bathhouse can be made from the remains of lining and boards 
This brutal door is perfect for a rest room
Manufacturing instructions
Required tools:
- jigsaw for leveling the length of boards;
- screwdriver for working with self-tapping screws;
- plane for leveling the thickness of the door leaf;
- clamps for fixing the door leaf while gluing the boards;
- sandpaper for sanding wood;
- hammer drill for drilling holes for hinges and handles;
- feather drills for hammer drills;
- a router with a handle for making grooves;
- tape measure;
- building level;
- mallet;
- calipers.
Necessary materials:
- tongue and groove boards 25–30 mm thick and 2100 mm long (the quantity depends on the desired width of the door and the width of the material itself);
- wooden beam 30x20 mm, which is needed to reinforce the door leaf;
- wood glue for sealing joints;
- wood screws;
- hanging loops (2–3 pcs.);
- handle with a locking mechanism (1 pc.).
Let's consider the process of manufacturing a stacked door of a standard size of 0.8x2 m:
- Cut the boards so that each has a length of 2 m +/- 2 cm. The final alignment can be done after gluing the canvas.
- Assemble the canvas by connecting boards one by one until the width of the canvas reaches 0.8 m or slightly exceeds it. Make sure that the structure is level by placing it on a horizontal plane without bending. If you notice that one corner is raised or a hump has formed, it is better to choose smoother boards for the door. When everything is done correctly, number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the canvas.
- Reassemble the canvas, carefully gluing each groove with wood glue. The boards should be connected one at a time, following the pencil marks. The tightness of the connection is ensured by light blows of the mallet through the block so as not to damage the board.
- Secure the canvas with clamps so that all connections are tightly compressed. The gluing period is indicated on the package of wood glue; it usually ranges from 1 to 5 days. If necessary, the thickness of the finished canvas is leveled using a plane and sandpaper. After this, a blank is cut out from a single layer to the size of the door - excess fragments are cut off in length and width.
- After this, you should select grooves for the key in the monolithic sheet at a height of 1/3 of the height of the door, counting from the top and bottom edges of the sheet. The shapes of the keys are demonstrated on the general diagram of the inlaid door; only the trapezoidal one is available to beginners.
- If you do not have enough tools or experience to create such a connection well, the key does not need to be recessed. In this case, its fastening is carried out by drilling through holes in the canvas and driving in wooden choppers of slightly larger diameter (dowels). Connecting with self-tapping screws in such cases is extremely undesirable.
- If the design of the web is not rigid enough, you can fasten a diagonal brace (jib) between the dowels using a similar technology.
The finishing treatment of interior doors for a bathhouse is carried out with environmentally friendly impregnations, mineral oils, and waxes. But it is better to leave the door to the steam room untreated, since there is always a risk that harmful components will begin to be released due to the temperature.
Let's start making the door frame:
- Select a quarter on the blanks of a wooden beam with a cross-section of 11x6 cm. The depth of the cut groove should be equal to the thickness of the door.
- Assemble a box from the timber so that the door leaf fits into the created recess with a gap of 1–2 mm. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry of the box; if the angles are not 90°, the door will not open and close well.
- The frame is installed in the opening with the recess facing outward, so that the gap between the door and the frame is covered with a protrusion. At the same time, heat loss in the bathhouse is minimized. It is important that the opening is noticeably larger than the door frame (3–4 cm on each side). This will make it possible to more accurately align the location of the box and prevent its deformation due to shrinkage of the house or swelling of the material from humidity. To level the position of the box, small wooden blocks are placed.
- The leveled door frame is attached to the wall with anchor bolts (2-3 on each side) or long self-tapping screws through placed bars/wedges.
Let's move on to installing the door leaf in the frame:
- Make markings for the hinges on the door leaf and frame so that the hinges are placed at the same distance from the top and bottom of the leaf (standard - 20 cm). You can attach them at the level of the dowels, and for a heavy structure it is worth adding a loop in the middle.
- Secure one half of the hinge to the door, and then secure the second half to the door frame using the screws included in the kit or wood screws. For beginners, it is best to choose butterfly hinges, since they do not require making grooves at the attachment points.
- It is better to hang the door with an assistant who will help you align the marks and hold the door while attaching the hinges with self-tapping screws. If you don’t have an assistant, you can place several wedges under the canvas and use them to fix it in the desired position.
- After fixing the hinges, set the handle at a comfortable height. For the front door, you should choose a handle with a locking mechanism, under which a groove of an individual size is selected in the door leaf (depending on the model of the handle). A wooden handle for a steam room is usually overhead, so you don’t have to choose grooves for it. The most convenient way is to make sure that the hinges are attached correctly and remove the door leaf to insert the door mechanism, and then reattach the door leaf.
- Fill the space between the wall and the frame with polyurethane foam. After complete drying, the foam must be trimmed so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the box.
- Decorate the junction of the frame and the wall with platbands of the selected model. You can make them yourself from unedged boards with a live edge, and secure them with small nails.
Now your door is ready for active use.
Video: review of the experience of making a stacked door
Paneled wooden doors
Wooden doors with panels are much more difficult to make than composite doors. Here you will have to connect many curved parts together and maintain the geometry very clearly. Therefore, you should take on such work only after you have experience in manufacturing other types of wooden doors.
Since the joints of the parts are especially sensitive to increased humidity and temperature, such models can only be installed in the locker room and rest room. At the entrance to a bathhouse, steam room or shower room, they will last much less than the prescribed period.
Photo gallery: paneled doors for a bathhouse
A steering wheel on the door is a simple way to make it unusual 
Classic doors with simple panels are suitable for dressing rooms and rest rooms 
By changing the size and proportions of the panels you can create completely different doors 
A door with asymmetrical panels looks very stylish 
This door design is the most durable option for a bathhouse.
Video: manufacturing instructions
If making a paneled door is not yet within your capabilities, you can order a simple panel and mount the frame yourself. It is made using the same technology as in the case of stacked doors.
Frame wooden doors
A frame door with insulation inside is most often assembled to create an entrance group. It consists of an internal frame, divided into cells to accommodate insulation (preferably stone wool) and external cladding. Its manufacture is a little more complicated than assembling a panel door, but easier than a panel door.
Wooden planks, lining, thin tongue-and-groove boards, MDF panels, and metal sheets can be used as external decorative cladding.
Manufacturing instructions
Required tools:
- drill;
- manual or stationary milling cutter;
- chisel for making grooves for fastening hinges and locks;
- yardstick;
- building level;
- plane for leveling the thickness of the boards;
- hammer/wooden mallet;
- construction stapler;
- sandpaper.
Necessary materials:
- boards for the frame;
- stone wool for thermal insulation;
- wind and moisture protective membrane;
- wood glue;
- wood screws;
- wooden lining for cladding.
Let's consider making a door measuring 1.92x0.82 m for a frame with parameters 2x0.9 m:
- Assemble the frame from 5x11 cm boards, as shown in the figure. Carefully ensure that all angles are 90 degrees.
- Check whether the structure is assembled correctly by placing it on a horizontal plane. If necessary, trim the thickness of the boards and seams with a plane and sandpaper.
- Secure the wind-moisture membrane to the frame using staples.
- Fill the resulting cells with non-flammable and safe stone wool.
- Cover the structure with a wind and moisture protective membrane on the other side.
- Finish both sides of the door with wooden clapboard, attaching each plank to the frame with a self-tapping screw inside the groove so that its head is completely covered by the next plank.
- If necessary, trim the ends of the door with a plane and sandpaper.
- The gaps formed after assembly can be filled with a mixture of PVA glue and fine sawdust (you can make wood flour yourself in a coffee grinder).
If the doors will be at the entrance, you can treat them with stain, high-quality antiseptic and cover them with several layers of varnish.
Manufacturing and installation of glass doors
In the shower and steam rooms of the bathhouse, it is best to install doors made of tempered glass or triplex (glued together from two layers). To manufacture such structures, you need a specialized machine for processing the edges of sheets with large thickness, as well as a furnace for hardening the material after drilling the mounting holes, so it is impossible to make them in artisanal conditions. But you can order the canvas from a glass company and supplement it with fittings yourself and install it in the opening.
Glass doors are always a winning decorative solution, as they give the bath a modern and stylish look. It also maintains the temperature in the steam room well: when the inner side of the fabric heats up to 80 o C, the outer side remains warm to the touch (about 40 o C). In addition, a glass door is an additional source of natural light in a small, cramped steam room/shower room, where there is not always a separate window.
The transparent glass door of the steam room looks good next to the same shower stall 
The glass door can be decorated with any sandblasted pattern
Choosing glass
The thickness of the glass should range from 6–12 mm, but the most preferable is 8–10 mm. A thinner fabric will be easier to break, but a thick one will be too heavy and will lead to faster wear of the hinges. The width of the door is limited by the wear resistance of the fittings; experts recommend choosing door leaves no wider than 0.8 m. Such a wide, heavy door will last longer if it is hung on 3 hinges. If you want to enclose a steam room with a glass wall, the door can be made narrower or double-leaf, and the additional panels can be installed permanently. In such cases, the width of the paneling is limited only by the area of the corridor (workers simply will not be able to carry a very wide and high panel inside).
The glass does not have to be transparent; it can be decorated with a sandblasted pattern, or completely frosted. In addition, manufacturers offer colored glasses painted in the mass (throughout the entire thickness of the material): graphite and bronze. There are options made of clear glass, without a greenish tint at the end.
Glass companies also often offer engraving on the canvas, but since such decoration weakens the canvas, it is better not to use it in steam rooms. Options decorated with film, photo printing, and glued fragments should also not be considered, since high temperature and humidity have a bad effect on such decorations.
Installation features
Glass companies produce doors of different types of opening: swing, sliding, pendulum. It is best to give preference to the swing version, since they use the most compact and durable fittings. The use of other mechanisms carries an additional risk of getting burned on the guide.
Before ordering a glass door, completely design the opening to the steam room. Only after this call a measurer and let him take measurements himself with an accuracy of 1 mm. If after such preparation the door does not fit, you will have the right to exchange the door under warranty.
Required tools:
- a screwdriver for installing hinges in the box;
- building level to check the geometry of the box;
- handle with rubber suction cups for working with glass.
If you already know how wooden doors are installed, you only need to familiarize yourself with the main differences:
Video: instructions for installing a glass door
Important to remember
Mandatory details:
Now you can make a beautiful and reliable door for a bathhouse on your own. Follow the instructions and try to perform all actions as carefully as possible, and then the new door will delight you with its appearance and impeccable performance for decades.
