When making a boat from plywood, you will face two main problems. First, you need to correctly size and manufacture the parts. Secondly, it is important to correctly assemble the boat frame. Later in the article I will describe in detail how to calculate the sizes for everyone components, and as we build the frame I will focus on particularly important points.
Dimensions and drawings
The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 mm wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the frame base. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.
We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.
Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the frame base.
L=3000-(h*tg(a-90)+h*tg(b-90))=2623,where h is the height of the boat
Now let's find the length of the bow and transom. Since they are inclined, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.
Transom L= √(〖(h*tg(a-90))〗^2+h^2)=508
Nose L= √(〖(h*tg(b-90))〗^2+h^2)=577
You need to decide on the width of the bottom. Let's take half the width of the boat - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width 1/3 from the transom.
In our case, the maximum width will be at a distance of 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam so that the maximum bend is at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.
The length of the plywood for the side will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (upper and lower, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.
Other sizes depend on the situation.
Boat frame
The basis will be timber 50*50*2523 mm. We screw a 50*50*630 mm transom to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. We screw the deformed beams from the ends of the transom to the bow (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).
We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50*25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25*25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The lower part of the frame is ready.
We screw on the bow and transom. Between the bow and the transom we again attach the deformed beams, but now along the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm in height and 350 mm in width. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (an angle of approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).
Making a frame for the sides
Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the top to the edge of the bottom beam. It is important!
For this we use 25*25 mm timber.
Frame covering
We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First we attach the sides. The plywood should fit snugly to the frame.
Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat
We glue all the joints of the plywood with waterproof glue. Apply glue to all areas of the boat that, in your opinion, are vulnerable.
Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We cover the boat with inside(optional). You can make the floor and not cover the sides, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Do not plank the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.
All remaining details are to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.
DOCOO - Specially for
Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats made from one sheet of plywood
I present to your attention project, sketches and description of the technology for making a boat from a single sheet of plywood. The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 similar boats. If you do as written, avoiding long smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for the “not rich Pinocchio”, who also does not have the experience of a master carpenter for which his dad Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.
Basic materials needed to build a boat:
- coin (no matter what denomination or what country);
- waterproof plywood brand FSF - 1 sheet measuring 1500x3000 mm and thickness 4 mm;
- slats for sides: 3-meter with a section of 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
- meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
- slats for the bottom: 2.5-meter with a section of 20x40...50 mm - 2 pieces;
- 90-centimeter sections 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
- boards: semi-bulkhead - stop for a can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
- jar (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
- transom trim (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
- support for the rower's feet (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
- epoxy glue - 5 kg;
- dye;
- fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
- copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.
Tools: saw, drill with drills, clamps, plane, emery cloth.
P.S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (Fig. 1). I make these myself from stainless steel. So far there have been no complaints about their quality.
Technology for building a boat from one sheet of plywood
I want to say right away that we will build a boat with flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.
1. Take a sheet of plywood and mark the bilge line and part of the transom of one starboard side according to the sketch using a strip (line ABC in Fig. 2). You can hammer nails into the “reference” points. The dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit; they could also be given in centimeters. Yes, and dimensional accuracy is not particularly needed here. A little more or less... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.
2. We cut out part of the transom and the right cheekbone along line ABC (see Fig. 2).
3. We place the resulting trimmed part (in Fig. 2 - the right side) on the left side, fasten the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not move out of place, and with its help, as if using a template, we mark the bottom separately and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the cutting operations carried out, we were left with two pieces from the plywood sheet, which will be used to make the sides, and the transom.
4. Along the edge of the stern, bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, we drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.
5. We fasten the transom to the bottom with wire (using holes).
6. Place the bottom on a stool and three chairs (Fig. 3). Using classical techniques and classical literature(“Queen Margot”, “War and Peace”) we create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired transom inclination. (It is good to place slats under the bottom, which will then go on the sides, especially if the plywood is 4 mm thick).
7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood we mark the contours of the side, taking into account the inclination of the transom. To do this, the blank for the side is pressed against the cheekbone of the bottom. For convenience, you can drill holes in the top of the transom and screw the workpiece to it with wire, but still, to mark the side, you will need an assistant who will hold the bow of the workpiece of the future side, and draw with a pencil the remaining line of contact between the workpiece and the bottom and the stem line with a pencil.
8. We cut out the side, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other side. We remove the resulting irregularities with a plane or, better yet, with a coarser piece of sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. They try to make the sides as identical as possible.
9. Along the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, we drill holes in increments of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, “Senezh”, which will significantly increase the service life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and sew the boat with copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm . We form the twists from the outside. Please note that when docking with the bottom, the side is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.
10. We upset and tap the wire of the paper clips with a hammer.
11. We insert the can and the bulkhead, temporarily securing them with screws, and glue the strips along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for oarlocks, are pre-cut on the side and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood side. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm away from the can (seat). We glue the brackets (structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting individual parts of the hull located at an angle to one another), fixing them temporarily with clamps, nails or screws on the “Flies”. “Fly” or “Crusk” is a wooden or plywood washer of any shape for a temporary nail (screw) to make it easier to remove later.
12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (top) strip is 50 mm. Before gluing these joints on the outside, the paper clips should be bitten off. Using a plane and sandpaper we smooth out the unevenness and round the cheekbone from the outside. We drill holes in the brackets so that an anchor rope, mooring line, fish tank, etc. can be tied to the ends. We finally glue the can, and attach a coin “for good luck” to the bottom with glue. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who don’t believe it. We glue the stop and strips under the legs and on the bottom to protect the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these strips across the inside of the body, and along the outside.
13. Cut and glue the board onto the transom.
14. In all the holes left from the “temporary” screws and nails, we hammer dowels (wooden nails) lubricated with epoxy. When the epoxy has hardened, the excess is cut off, and the location of the dowel is puttied and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for external surfaces. Just check if the anti-rot liquid used is compatible with this paint. In general, it is useful to read what is written on the paint can.
15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If you don’t have a drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then widen it with some suitable piece of hardware. A stainless steel or brass tube of suitable diameter (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) approximately 70 mm long with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with fiberglass soaked in epoxy. The top of the tube is recessed flush with the side so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger in diameter than necessary, the inner rail will have to be thicker. It is desirable that these tubes be the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). You can raise the subkey higher with the help of a “pillow” - a block 30...40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with dowels. Then the tube should be taken in a straight line. It will be more convenient to row, but those who use nets claim that such a “cushion” gets in the way.
Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, pipes. English boatbuilders recommend assembling an oar spindle from 14 slats of ash grown on open area southern slope, and only slats cut only from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a result that satisfied me by making a spindle and oar handle from a 2-meter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam, but glued from an inch board, turned out to be better. As a blade, I inserted plywood measuring 400x200 mm and 6 mm thick into the spindle slot. At the blade, the spindle is extended to a diameter of 35 mm. In front of the handle I left the section square. It is easier to control an oar if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes lead is even put into the handles for this purpose. The paddle is 220 cm long, the blade is secured in the slot with glue and two homemade ones (made from wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades in a store, but they cost 750 rubles, and the materials for the whole boat were only 625 rubles.
P.S. Don't forget to stick a coin.
What and why can be changed when building a boat
Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the pond, and every cm of sediment matters; the bottom can generally be made straight (without curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull water along with it and rowing will be difficult. In this case, it is better to make the bottom of a 120 cm wide boat wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.
If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but if its width is less than 70 cm, you won’t be able to shoot and you will have to cast the spinning rod carefully. Especially if the water is cold!
For those interested build yourself a boat from one sheet of plywood, shaped like regular wooden keelboat, in Fig. Figure 4 shows the design of the “keel”, which is formed when the bottom is formed from two plywood blanks connected at an angle of 100°...120°.
Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, like the “optimist”, its carrying capacity and stability will increase. Three people can swim on it if you behave carefully. But rowing against the waves and wind, and also making your way through the reeds will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the bow, which will also increase the weight of the boat.
Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5 hp motor on it. s., but it is much safer to use a motor with a power of no more than 2 liters. With. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, this is additional weight.
Feed can. A constant stern bank, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems like a kilogram. You can store some things in jars in the form of boxes, but remember, in order to get something from there, you need to get up from the jar, and this is not always safe.
Keel. A similar fin in the stern of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, to keep the boat on course, but will be a hindrance when the boat moves away from the shore with a sandbank. Actually, I advise you to make a keel, but if it gets in the way, then the plane has already been invented, but I don’t advise you to make a keel with an axe.
Sail. For our boat, a sail, rudder and centerboard from an “optimist” are quite acceptable. The result will be a small “Ochakovskaya scow”.
However, when starting to modernize a boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole load of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a design for another boat. On the website, for example, there are a lot of them, and. The advantages of this project: minimal cost and labor intensity, absence special requirements to the qualifications of a master performer and very satisfactory (!) consumer qualities of the boat.
What and with what can be replaced when building a boat
Plywood of the FSF brand will completely replace plywood of the FK brand, only the latter, after gluing, will have to be oiled with hot linseed oil and painted over more thoroughly. There are examples where, with careful care, boats made of such plywood served for many years. If there is no wood for slats coniferous species, then hardwood is quite suitable for such purposes. After all, you don’t have to go around Cape Horn, and in a few years, maybe even the birch slats won’t rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, but they serve long years. True, from hardwood it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks).
If there is no plywood the right size, one or another can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom turns out to be shorter than required by only 20 cm, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit yourself to this length. I note that there is no need to tuck the edges of the plywood to be joined; it is easier and more reliable to simply glue them end-to-end. On the inside of the body at the joint you will need to put a strip 10...15 mm thick and 5...7 cm wide, and a strip of fiberglass on the outside. Next, the joint is sewn together with wire, and if there is no wire, you can use thread or twine (preferably synthetic). Holes for the wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but larger, it’s okay, the epoxy will seal them up anyway.
What can you save on?
If there is a shortage of fiberglass, strips of it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will allow you to reliably seal the joint. If necessary, epoxy will be completely replaced by any waterproof glue, but at the same time, at the bottom along the cheekbone, you will need to glue a strip with a cross-section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with the sides on screws, placing the latter in increments of 100...150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the side (with a protrusion of about 5 mm over the edge), and then “removed”, that is, it is pulled through to fit tightly to the bottom.
The slats can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, after having coated them with paint). But then you will have to increase the cross-sectional dimensions of the slats by about a third, and the size of the booklets - by two times, cutting them out of boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm (it is known that a glued part works as one whole, and from knocked together parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seems to be together, eh...).
Good sub-keys can also be made from a steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes that are too large in diameter, then inserts from plastic bottles. With such liners, the rowlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlock axles should not be greater than 12 mm, and less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.
Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without pressing, but simply end-to-end, placing one strip of fiberglass on the outside and a 20x50 mm strip on the inside.
Mistakes when building a boat
If your weight is 90 kg or more, the slats provided for in the project will not hold the bottom. It will bend downwards under your feet, and bend upwards with water (the draft has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease quite significantly, so in this case you will have to use thicker plywood for the bottom (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse slats (flora) with a cross-section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge in increments of 30 cm. Although one of my friends (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight to 80 kg. I lied, of course. However, the boat still serves, but he rarely fishes.
It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, it is impossible to lay the rail - bend it equally, using only three starting points. Therefore, to prevent the boat from turning out crooked, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, a crooked boat will also float on the water, but...!
Using nails when building a boat is faster and cheaper, and with the help of screws the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole for each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable oil). Otherwise, you won’t be able to unscrew this screw later. When attaching slats to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a regular meat grinder. After all, it’s difficult to hold the slats with your hands properly. To fasten the planks, it is better to take larger screws 20...25 mm long with a semicircular head for a flat-blade screwdriver. And place “flies” or metal washers under them.
They begin to fasten the slats from any selected point, subsequently acting in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to begin fastening the outer slats from the middle, and the inner slats from the transom). In this case, nails (screws) are installed in a row, since otherwise “bubbles” may result. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when attaching symmetrical slats to the sides, nails are hammered alternately into the slats on one side, then into the slats on the other.
You cannot “save” epoxy by applying too much epoxy to the surfaces to be bonded. thin layer resin. In this case, the epoxy will simply be absorbed into the wood and nothing will remain on the adhesive layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g per 3-meter strip or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Apply epoxy with a brush or spatula; if, after compressing the parts to be glued, excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, if you hurry, you can use the “extra” resin to glue the seams, apply it to the body instead of varnish, and fill the holes from knots. Based on own experience, I can say that usually it is not possible to use more than 200 g of resin at a time (and this despite the fact that everything is ready for assembly). In a word, hurry up! Otherwise the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in a jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. On the standard packaging of epoxy it is written that you need to work with it with gloves, so don’t skimp on them. Well, if you don’t have gloves, then first lubricate your hands with oil, preferably vegetable oil, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talcum powder or flour, so as not to stain the parts being glued with greasy hands. Or you can simply soap your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands from resin using vegetable oil and rags, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if you soap them, dry them, and wash them with soap and water after work.
Your safety when building the boat and then!
Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different types of hardeners, but the ones I came across included cyanide. I hope everyone has heard about the properties of potassium cyanide.
Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy reserve is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with its load. So it is useful to have pieces of foam or plastic bottles with a capacity of at least 10/7 in the boat. It is best to place them under the can on the bow side in a bag, which should be securely tied to the boat - on lifeboats Under the seats there used to be sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air. In the stern it is good to have a foam plate 5...10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a seat for a passenger, and also for buoyancy. And it’s convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather by placing the same foam board on the jar (on which, by the way, it’s warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag for the stove from an old shirt. The bag with this plate must be tied to the jar. And it is more convenient to tie the stern plate to the footrest.
The distance from the edge of the can to the footrest is average and is 70 cm, but it is wiser to glue the footrest at a distance that is convenient for you.
Remember also that the boat is twice as heavy as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if handled carelessly. In fact, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to capsize at all. However, this is not at all true.
Fiberglass fabric is impregnated (oiled) at the manufacturer to prevent glass dust from flying off it. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do using an electric hot plate with an open spiral. I warm the fabric until the smoke stops coming out. You can also burn the fabric in the oven. electric stove, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! There is no need to anneal special shipbuilding fabric; the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I’ll tell you the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.
Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in their arsenal. At the moment the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.
This article will outline detailed description, how to create your own boat with your own hands.
Self-assembly of a boat from plywood
Many people wonder whether it is possible to make a high-quality swimming device on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.
Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory “brothers”:
- Product weight. When using plywood, weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
- Using solid sheets will allow you to create ideal shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
- Minimum final cost. It will be spent, you will only have to Consumables, such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.
People with carpentry skills will spend one and a half weeks on this work, provided they work in free time or two full days.
Dimensions and drawings
Let's take a closer look at the technical capabilities of the future boat.
Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is greater than that of many motor boats of this class.
To ensure that the high nose does not interfere with visibility, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.
Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. Design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.
This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.
It is possible to install a canopy in case of bad weather conditions for a special aluminum construction for which there are nests on the side of the boat.
Maximum length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34
Side height:
- The nose is 54 centimeters.
- The back is 40 centimeters.
- Stern height 45 centimeters.
- The body weight is twenty kilograms.
- Load capacity 180 kilograms.
Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.
It is possible to use one pair of oars.
Figure No. 1:
- A) View of the bottom.
- B) Top view.
- B) Transom (blanks)
Figure No. 2. External cladding(sheet preparation):
- A) Board.
- B) Cheekbone.
- B) Bottom.
Materials for construction
To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.
Below is a list of tools you will need:
- Screwdriver
- Manual milling machine.
- Hand sander.
- Clamps.
- Electric jigsaw.
List of materials for assembly:
- Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
- Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
- Wooden slats.
- Brass nails.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
- Epoxy resin.
- The varnish is waterproof.
- Fiberglass.
- Beam 50 by 3400
- Beam 40 by 20 by 4000
Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step
Making a frame for the sides
The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. Place the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side the stem.
The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.
You should carefully check for any distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.
Adjustments can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.
Between all connections a thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin.
After the stems have been secured, you can begin installing the frames.
A cutout for the keel should be made on the frames at right angles. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 millimeters narrower than the frame.
The fit should be checked with a stretched rope, which should coincide with the beams. By installing the frames at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the keel, you can finally secure it. After all the operations performed, you should set the deflection angle.
For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular shape, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11-centimeter beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.
To eliminate lateral distortions, the stems and transom, as well as the beams, are fastened with some kind of beam.
Frame covering
After this, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of the plywood sheets prepared for cladding and try on templates on these sheets to minimize the amount of waste.
The contours of parts of natural size when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.
All parts are cut out with a jigsaw fine teeth taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.
Before gluing, you should align the axes of the parts to be glued using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.
After the glue has hardened, identical parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted together with a plane.
Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for the wire fasteners that will be used to connect later.
Fastening the casing should begin from the bow of the boat, fastening it with copper wire through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire with outside two or three turns with a little slack.
Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat
After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily secured in the positions shown on the layout of the skin drawing.
Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and secure it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.
There is a possibility that the sides will protrude aft beyond the transom; in this case, the edges should be trimmed with a plane.
After all the above operations have been completed, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and crimp everything from the inside.
Fiberglass
All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into strips.
The first layer must be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers must be offset by different sides from 10 to 15 millimeters.
After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire fasteners and glue them with fiberglass on the outside.
The bottom should be reinforced with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done this way:
The prepared strips are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After this, the blanks are laid out in place and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.
The marked areas are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.
After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.
After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.
The inside of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use it to paint the bottom and cans of a ship. regular paint oil based.
Glue selection
The following adhesive materials are used in the construction of boats:
- Epoxy resins.
- Vinyl ester resins.
- Polyester resins.
Let's take a closer look at the above listed resins:
- Epoxy resin can safely be called a universal resin used in the production of swimming equipment, and has found indispensable application in composite structures and ship repairs. These resins provide the most high quality glue seam.
- Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Increased strength is provided by epoxy molecules. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost compared to other types.
- Polyester resins can easily be called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The only disadvantages include the fact that it is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.
Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly key point in the manufacture of a quality vessel.
Almost every craftsman can build homemade fishing boats. You just need to choose the right material and connect it according to the diagram. This device can be used not only for fishing, but also for walking along a pond. You can also buy the product in a store, but it is not sold everywhere, and the cost is not at all pleasing. During the manufacture of the product, it is necessary to fix all parts securely and firmly. No joint should allow water to pass through. You should also calculate the maximum weight of people who will be transported by the fishing boat.
Most often, users are interested in how to make a boat themselves from classic wood materials. To do this, you first need to select the appropriate drawing. You will also need plywood sheets 0.5 cm thick.
You can make a boat with your own hands using the following technology:- First, you should draw paper templates according to the selected drawing and apply the contours to the plywood.
- You can cut out fragments using electric jigsaw or fine-tooth saws. Wherein Special attention should be noted at the angles at which the parts will be joined at the ends.
- Fastening frames and transoms. To do this, you can use glue or galvanized screws.
- Fixation of sides, bottom. Here you will also need a special strong waterproof glue. Additionally, the bottom from the inside of the boat is reinforced with slats. Absolutely all parts must match each other in size. The chamfers of those parts that will be in contact must be removed so that there is no gap between the surfaces.
- Seam taping, corner reinforcement. To ensure that the connections do not allow moisture to pass through, they must be well sealed. Here you will need Aerosil and epoxy resin.
- Fastening the oarlock and seats.
- Sanding the outer surface. This is done as soon as the product is completely dry.
- Impregnation of homemade products for fishing protective composition, its painting. It is better to use special paint that is intended for a wooden vessel.
To increase the strength of the product, it is necessary to make the tailgate and frames from several layers of material. If the boat is equipped with a motor, then the side on which it will be installed must be reinforced with hardwood wooden plates and also additionally glued with fiberglass.
To build a home “boat”, it is not necessary to use wood or plywood. You can even build a device from plastic bottles. At the same time, the made device will float just as well and is quite suitable for fishing (in addition, the master will spend less effort, time, and money on it).
For work you will need following materials and tools:- bottles (a small container will not work here; it is better to take products designed for 2 liters);
- glue and tape (they must be resistant to moisture);
- wire;
- stationery knife or scissors;
- plywood;
- wooden or metal crossbars.
The container is first cleared of labels. Next, it needs to be made more rigid. To do this, the bottles are placed in freezer, twist tightly, and then put in a warm place. The lids must be additionally fixed with water-resistant glue.
You need to form “logs” from the container. You can connect the elements with an improvised coupling, which is cut from the center of an empty bottle. The elements are fixed at the bottom. In this case, the protrusions of the other must fit into the recesses of one container. Next, the workpiece is fixed with glue and tape. Now you need to cut off the top parts from two bottles and put them on the necks of the finished design. The rest of the logs are made in this way.
From these products, collected in groups of 8, floats are made. You can connect the fragments with strong wire. The floats are fixed together wooden blocks. After the transverse parts are ready, you can attach the plywood bottom to them.
This ensures the reliability and waterproofness of the joints.
To give a beautiful appearance The product can be sheathed with plywood or metal sheets.
Among all fishing devices, a boat is the most cherished dream of a fisherman. Moreover, the ship can be quite small. For example, folding models can be taken with you when fishing with the least chance of not fitting them into the car. Most often, such structures are made of duralumin.
Additionally, you will need rubberized fabric, linings and rivets, wood, primer, wood, paint.
Installation of such products involves several stages:- Selection of material. You need 4 fragments for the sides and 2 for the bottom. You will also need 3 cross members: 2 spacers to ensure the reliability of the structure, and 1 seat.
- Cutting out fragments, fitting them and bending them.
- Making holes for rivets. The distance between them should not exceed 2 cm. All places where rivets were installed must be thickly coated with paint to seal them.
- Galvanized fasteners are used to secure the seat.
- Priming and painting the fixture.
It is better to fish from this type of boat. It is unlikely to be suitable for a romantic walk. In order not to spoil the duralumin, it is better to first make fragments from cardboard and fit them.
By equipping the device with outboard motors, you can build a real boat. But it is not always needed.
Most often, fishermen prefer oars, because they are much quieter.
Probably every fishing enthusiast has at least once thought about how to make homemade boat. This is not an easy task, but it is still possible to make such a watercraft.
Moreover, you don’t have to be an engineer; all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. You will learn how homemade plywood boats are made from our article today.
Manufacturing difficulties
Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimum set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, a homemade inflatable boat (or plywood) can be easily made in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that all this work requires a minimum of time, you can make a boat even under open air. Well, if the weather changes, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic film.
Why are they good?
Firstly, plywood is light, durable and quite warm material. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogues, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (at the same time, inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing gear). In store versions free space is sorely lacking.
Thirdly, being in wooden boat, you don’t feel any discomfort at all.
Preparation of materials
The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most affordable and cheap material for such work. And it’s very convenient to work with her.
Let's get down to business
First of all, I would like to note that any work related to self-production any means (be it a tractor or something else, it doesn’t matter) must be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. IN in this case you should have drawings of homemade boats on hand. In some cases, drawings can be replaced with a sketch drawing.
So, how are they made? To assemble the body, you will need to prepare dry boards 2.5 centimeters thick and a 6 mm sheet of plywood. The width of the boards for the stern and sides should be 30.5 centimeters. This is the most optimal sizes for a fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and spacers) are made from boards 2.5 centimeters wide. Moreover, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It must be taken into account that the dimensions of all these elements must be precisely maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.
The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties or difficulties. This is due to their simple geometric shape.
During the work, pay special attention to the fit of the joining surfaces and the frill of the boat. All joining edges must be carefully adjusted and have minimal gaps along their entire length. Either tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fastening elements. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:
The bottom of the boat is made of a sheet of plywood 6 millimeters thick. But, since this part of the boat will be constantly exposed to water, to make the boat waterproof, additionally treat the joints of the hull and the bottom with VIAM-B/3 type glue and secure it with screws along the entire perimeter. If there is no such tool (“VIAM-B/3”), it is quite suitable as an alternative Oil paint. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it does provide a durable and waterproof coating. It is worth noting that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. External seams should be carefully taped with canvas or percale using AK-20. In order not to sink the bottom of the boat, a slatted grid is installed between the spacers (the cross-section of the slats is 5x2 centimeters).
The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean drying oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted 2-3 more times. According to its properties liquid paint better, it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, wide soft brushes are used.
Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality finish. However, we do not recommend using them for such boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less durable and unsuitable for use every year).
Important points
If homemade motor boats are made, then an additional drawing of special fastenings for electric or gasoline engine. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use regular oars. They are often made from 35mm birch boards. In this case, a spike with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the oar is primed and painted.
And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, the average service life plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even their rubber competitors can boast of such durability.
