In order to drill different kinds stainless steels at home, use special drills and liquid cooling. This allows you to improve the technological process and obtain high-quality metal hole without damage to the power tool and the main surface of the material. Such metal is drilled both on industrial machines and with conventional construction electrical appliances according to a pre-drawn template.
Features of stainless steel and choice of drill
Stainless steel is widely used in household and industrial applications. It is a high-quality metal alloy that is resistant to corrosion and various aggressive environments. In everyday life, this material is often used to make plumbing fixtures, countertops, pipes, etc. In the process of repair or construction, sometimes it becomes necessary to drill one or another part made of this metal.
An important nuance when drilling stainless steels, along with the correct selection of coolants and work technology, is a high-quality drill. Many experts to this day prefer the time-tested and very durable cobalt options (CO-5), which are also suitable for making holes in heat-resistant metals or cast iron without the need for pre-centering.
These models were previously made on the basis of steel alloys with 5% cobalt in their composition or from high-strength steels such as R-18 with the addition of this chemical element. These days they are difficult to find on the market. building materials those types that met Soviet standards GOST - 10902-77, since they are practically not produced on an industrial scale.
Most often the majority domestic producers They simply cover the parts with a “golden” layer of cobalt, but at the same time it is contained minimally or not at all in the workpiece. This technology allows for improved sliding parameters, but does not add any strength to the rod.
There are analogues on the market of “real” cobalt versions of foreign production, the characteristics of which correspond to DIN standards - 338 or 336, and the marking contains the abbreviation HSS-C or simply NHSS. These types of drills are also made from high-strength steels with a mandatory content of at least 5% cobalt in the alloy (among the manufacturers it is worth noting such companies as Bosch; Ruko; Gross; Hagwert; Hilti, etc.
Their advantage is the high hardness of the material from which they are made and a specially blunted tip sharpening angle, which makes them suitable for working with any type of “heavy” metals. The only downside may be the price, which is noticeably higher than usual options standard drills.
Steel core bits and conical drills for stainless steel
In addition to cobalt options various diameters and strength similar to stainless steel, other drills are used from metal alloys of high hardness with the sharpest sharpening for dense materials, which, as a rule, is made on only one cutting side. The choice of drill and working tool depends on the brand of stainless steel, thickness of the workpiece being processed and selected technological process.
If it is necessary to make a large hole (from 14 mm in diameter and above), use special ring drills or crowns. They have additional clamping equipment, a chuck and a drill head various sizes, which according to the tables correspond to inch and metric standards for pipes and other popular stainless steel products.
For small thicknesses (1-2mm), you can drill out stainless steel with a simple steel drill, but only if its cutting part is sharpened at an angle of 120 degrees. In this case, the power tool is set to the lowest possible speed (100 rpm) in order to prevent the cutter from breaking, as well as overheating and failure of the tool itself.
For drilling processing of sheet metal, food grade and especially thin stainless steel (less than 0.9 mm), special stepped or conical drills for metal are used. Their peculiarity is that the working part of the part is made in the form of a spiral with annular transitions of various diameters.
This allows you to accurately determine during drilling what size hole was made at a certain stage of the work. In such cases (with very small thickness), such types can replace a whole set of parts for stainless steel, including round bits and conventional drills with different types sharpening.
Application of cooling and lubricants
Drilling holes in products that are made of stainless steel with a standard metal drill and using simple technology is not recommended due to the special structure of the alloy, which is characterized by high viscosity. The use of a conventional drill results in excessive heating of all elements that participate in it during operation, which can negatively affect the working tool and the finishing quality.
To avoid difficulties when drilling yourself and to make the hole correctly and as evenly as possible, use high-quality coolants, which at the same time act as a lubricant.
IN industrial scale There are powerful drilling machines and equipment that is equipped with an automatic fluid supply system. Some craftsmen equip old or homemade mills with a similar device, constructing it based on a pump from a car pump or other suitable option.
A common and serious mistake made by novice craftsmen is to dip the drill in water while working. That is, first they make a hole dry, then the hot rod is dipped into a cold solution. It is absolutely forbidden to do this, it reduces the properties of the part, and at a certain stage the workpiece will break, and this also applies to the working tool itself.
The composition that is used when drilling stainless steel is most often made on the basis of a mixture of technical oil or other types with high viscosity and colloidal sulfur, ground into powder (which is often used for the fumigation procedure in gardening and viticulture.). These two elements are mixed together in equal proportions and obtain the necessary for quality work cooling material.
More effective option cooling is a solution based on sulfur and fatty acids. The latter can be easily obtained independently using the following technology:
- a small piece of standard brand laundry soap is ground to a powdery state;
- add to container hot water(70-80 degrees) and mix everything properly;
- add a few drops of technical acid (hydrochloric acid) to the slightly cooled solution;
- after a few minutes, when characteristic fatty bubbles form on the surface, they are “extinguished” big amount chilled or ice water.
The resulting hardened layer contains the fatty acids necessary for the work, which are subsequently mixed with sulfur powder in a ratio of 1 to 6 and used as a heat compensator when drilling. If it is impossible to carry out such a procedure or for lack of suitable materials can be purchased ready-made options liquid cooling, which are sold in special stores (but their cost will be much higher than those that you get yourself).
In order for the hole to be smooth and of high quality, several simple rules, which allow you to perform quality work on stainless steel, namely:
When drilling parts that are located in a horizontal plane, the drill is pushed through a rubber washer or other material of suitable size and properties (for example, a plastic plug), which in turn is filled with a cooling compound and installed directly above the location of the required cut. Or additionally spray the area universal means for metals in the form of aerosols.
For vertical surfaces, you can install a paraffin ball, which is a good lubricant. To facilitate work in any plane, experts recommend making preliminary markings (axial marks) or a special template with already marked contours.
Regardless of the type of part, thickness and other parameters, a household power tool or machine is adjusted using adjustments to the minimum speed feed (100-450 rpm). This will ensure uniform and precise drilling. An indicator of a correctly selected speed is the long and uniform metal shavings that appear during the work process.
If the thickness of the steel product is more than 7 millimeters, the procedure is performed in several technological passes. First, make a small preliminary hole with a suitable drill (for example, 4-5 mm), and then carefully drill it to required parameters. This allows you to get the most even and neat edges, which is especially important when working with food or plumbing stainless pipes.
Drilling stainless steel at home is not difficult if you have theoretical and practical understanding of it and choose reliable power tools and a set of high-quality drills. Do not forget about constant cooling of the metal, safety precautions and technological breaks.
How and with what to drill through stainless steel? I think you have asked this question more than once. Of course, such a need does not arise often, but when the question of drilling stainless steel arises, most craftsmen are unprepared.
You cannot take stainless steel with ordinary drills, although this primarily depends on your skill and knowledge in this matter. So let's deal with the problem))
Stainless steel differs from ordinary metal in that it is very viscous and when drilling, the drill instantly heats up. That is why the key to successful drilling of stainless steel is drill cooling. To do this, you can use either a special coolant for drills, or unscrew it yourself.
There are a lot of options, for example, you can use oil, which you can easily buy at the pharmacy, as an option - castor oil (ordinary castor oil), if you follow the instructions, then you need to drill stainless steel with oleic acid. And of course you can use regular machine oil.
When drilling a horizontal surface, take some kind of plug or rubber washer, pour oil into it and drill through it. If you need to drill vertically, for example, a stainless steel sheet is fixed vertically, then you can use paraffin, roll it into a ball and stick it on the drilling site. We drill through it.
When drilling a diameter larger than 6 mm, you need to use the “double” method - this means that first you drill with a small diameter drill, then use a drill of the required diameter. For example, if you need a hole with a diameter of 5 mm, then first use a 2-3 mm drill, then 6 mm.
Well, the main one, the most important tool- these are drills. Drills are different, however last years their quality has noticeably deteriorated. If you decide to try to drill stainless steel with ordinary drills made of R6M5 steel, then you are unlikely to be able to make a hole. Although, if the stainless steel sheet is not thick and everything is in order with cooling, then the case may burn out.
For trouble-free drilling of stainless steel, high-strength drills are used. There are also plenty of options. From personal experience- I think that the most best drills for stainless steel - these are old ones with a quality mark, with the addition of cobalt. The marking of such drills is P6M5K5. They are very strong, after all, in the USSR the quality mark meant a lot.
Until now, in our store they ask for exactly Soviet drills; of course, you won’t find cobalt drills during the day, but you can find standard P6M5 drills of some diameters.
Also, good results were demonstrated by ancient Sovdepov drills made of the now rare P18 steel. Finding such drills, especially with a quality mark, is now simply unrealistic. However, it is still found in stocks. Such drills sell like hot cakes even at a high price.
What to do if you can’t find Soviet drills, but you need to drill stainless steel? There is a way out, but be prepared to spend more money. Special stainless steel drills from the Ruko company are sold in stores; they have proven themselves to be excellent, but they are quite expensive.
For example, a drill with a diameter of 3 mm costs about 100 rubles. Not weak, to be sure. And large diameters already cost several hundred rubles. The drills are cobalt, although the marking is already imported - HSS-Co DIN338 (Co - cobalt). Its composition is similar to R6M5K5 steel, that is, the percentage of cobalt in the steel is also 5.
Well, the “coolest” version of drills is carbide for metal. They differ from one-sided sharpening, the angle is sharper. True, finding such drills is even more problematic than Soviet cobalt ones.
As an option, if you have some emery at home, you can independently resharpen a regular carbide drill for drilling stainless steel. It's a simple matter if you know how to sharpen drills.
Industrial development and high requirements for product certification in international markets lead to the widespread use of high-quality stainless steels. When creating projects, designers prefer welding connections of individual components.
The bolted and rivet connection was not affected by this and is often used in modern designs. Drilling of stainless steel may be necessary to create process holes. The material presented in this article will give general concepts and features of this process with anti-corrosion alloys.
Preparatory work
Preparatory work consists of eliminating some negative factors associated with drilling stainless steel. Let's look at what properties make this process difficult:
- The chemical composition of stainless steel grades helps to increase the ductility of the metal. When drilling such steels, chips stick to the drill, causing cutting edges are excluded from the process, and hardening is formed on the walls inside the unfinished hole. Such surface hardening makes it difficult further processing and changes physical properties in this place.
- Heat is removed from the drill heated by rotation and cutting along the surface of the metal. Without taking preventive measures, you can end up with a tarnished area around the drilling. Except for the spoiled one decorative surface, this reduces corrosion resistance and requires additional technological operations to restore the specified parameters.
To avoid the disadvantages described above, before drilling it is necessary to decide how the surface will be cooled and what to do to prevent chips from sticking. Among effective methods Water will do. If the volume of metal being drilled is more than one hole with a diameter of 10 mm in a sheet of 2 mm thickness, then you should consider cooling with oil or a special emulsion.
Attention. Cooling with water when drilling stainless steel occurs during the process itself. Cooling by lowering a hot drill into a jar, standing nearby, leads to hardening and tempering of the metal and loss of basic properties. Coolant is supplied to the contact point when drilling. To reduce consumption, you can place a rubber ring on the surface, surrounding the contact point. 
Drilling modes
The correct choice of drilling mode is the key to obtaining a high-quality hole. The main components are speed, feed and torque.
Cutting speed- a conditional value that determines how quickly a point located on the surface of the tool rotates relative to its center. This means that for different drill diameters you need to choose different speeds to achieve the same cutting speed.
Example. For steel 08Х13Н with a thickness of 10-15 millimeters, the reference book indicates a cutting speed of 20 m/min. If necessary, drill a hole with a diameter of 1 mm spindle speed drilling machine should be 6366 rpm. If a hole is drilled with a diameter of 10 mm, then the revolutions should not exceed 637 revolutions in 60 seconds.
Drill feed into metal means the amount of movement into the depth of the hole being drilled for a certain number of revolutions. That is, this is the sinking speed. Measured in millimeters per revolution. It is important to maintain the recommended values to obtain a high-quality result and reduce the impact of chips on the cutting edges. 
Torque, transmitted to the drill during the drilling process, is important factor for the drill and material, determines the choice of steel for the drill and the composition of the coolants. In ordinary words, this is the load on the drill resulting from the resistance of the material to deformations created by the edges of the drill.
The choice of each parameter is determined by the grade of stainless steel, the thickness of the sheet or part, the choice of equipment, the selection of cooling method, drill material, surface roughness and other factors. There are many reference books and regime maps for the main brands. Correct selection and the high qualifications of the technologist who draws up the regime maps will avoid additional processing operations and finishing, reducing production costs.
Drills for stainless steel.
The variety of drilling equipment today can confuse even experienced professionals.
The most common are cobalt drills. Their name indicates the presence of cobalt in chemical composition alloy A stainless steel drill is a high-speed steel product. Increasing the percentage of cobalt increases the red-hotness; the alloy will retain its properties after heating to red-hot temperatures. These include tool steel R6M5K5, the main material for manufacturing cutting tool for stainless steel in domestic and foreign markets. 
In addition to the material, the design of the drill itself is important. The most expensive and high-quality ones are made using technology when grooves are formed on grinding machines. The absence of deformation stresses makes them stronger and expands drilling parameters. These grooves do not have microscopic burrs and facilitate chip exit, preventing the grooves from sticking. The sharpening angle of the drill should be 135 degrees. This leads to a reduction in load. 
Drilling technique
Drilling a hole larger than 6 millimeters must be done in two stages. First, a hole with a diameter of up to 5 mm is drilled, and then brought to the required diameter. The absence of internal stresses before drilling will simplify and expand the range of operating parameters. This will extend the life of the drill and avoid overheating of the surface.
Before drilling into stainless steel, find out its grade, thickness, and recommended drilling parameters. Decide on the coolant. If there is none, you can use vegetable oil(olive or sunflower), lard, emulsion of laundry soap in water.
Stainless steel is widely used in household and industrial applications to create various items due to the significant amount positive qualities. It is an alloy various materials, which gave the stainless steel resistance to corrosion and aggressive environments. Based on their percentage, it is possible to create in the alloy different types material.
At home, items from the so-called food grade stainless steel, taps and mixers, sinks and sinks in the kitchen, tableware and other things. Therefore, it is often necessary to drill through stainless steel for some purpose. However, you should prepare for the process. That is, study the recommendations more experienced craftsmen, if the procedure is being performed with your own hands for the first time, and also select suitable drills and lubricants.
In addition to experience, you will need a bit of sensitivity and attentiveness. This is far from the only thing a master needs. What helps most when drilling is lubricating fluid, without which the master risks damaging the drills and the material. The lubricant consists of machine oil and sulfur, so it is easily recognized by its viscous form and increased fat content. Except the right choice material, you need to know some features of how to drill a hole in stainless steel.
Nuances when drilling
What needs to be done is to decide on a tool. What exactly to use depends on the diameter of the holes needed. If up to 12 mm, then at home you can use a hand drill.
Nothing else will help you drill holes in stainless steel as efficiently as preliminary marking. It is especially effective when making single holes or processing hardened and sheet metal. Axial marks are applied to the workpiece under the drill, and then a small recess is made in the product. Later they are deepened to the required size.
A template is another thing that will help save time when drilling, because the contours of the holes are pre-marked on it. Craftsmen have to resort to tricks when the work is done from the edge of the surface. Usually, half-holes are needed here, which are made as follows: a plate of the same material is attached to the workpiece, which is clamped in a vice. After which you can drill out a standard recess, and upon completion of the work, simply remove the attached plate.
Useful drilling techniques
Every master who has gotten his hand in this business has a couple tricky tricks, significantly simplifying the drilling process. Many videos and photos on the site will clearly demonstrate what needs to be done and how.
First of all, you should pay attention to what plane the working surface. When you need to drill a hole in a horizontal object, coolant is poured into a small plug, through which drilling is carried out.
If the structure is installed vertically, then a paraffin ball is attached to the site of the future hole. Thanks to this trick, you can quickly get the job done even in the most inconvenient places.
Another important nuance Something to remember when planning to drill stainless steel is to set the drill to minimum speed. To obtain standard holes, a speed of up to 150 revolutions is sufficient. If the speed is too high, the lubricant simply will not have time to cool the drill.
What to do with equipment that does not have a speed switch? Press the “Start” button and release after 1-2 seconds. If you work with such short presses, the drill motor will not develop high speed.
If you have to drill a lot and often into stainless steel, you should buy a special stand for the drill. IN financially expenses will be small, and the process will be greatly simplified.
You can determine that the drill is dull or the material is overheated by the darkening of the chips. Therefore, skilled craftsmen first use small-diameter drills, for example, a four-piece. Then the hole is brought to the right size, obtaining smooth and neat edges. This is especially important when drilling stainless steel pipes. In this case an ideal result can only be achieved using a special stepped cone drill. When it is necessary to make a hole of a large diameter, from about 15 millimeters, a crown hole is used, in other words, a crown.
Use of lubricants
To prevent the procedure from ending in failure, you need to use cooling materials. The thing is that stainless steel has high viscosity. During operation, the load is placed simultaneously on the drill and the material, as a result of which overheating of either one or the other may occur. Therefore, it is so important to consider how to cool the instrument.
When you have to drill a lot, it makes more sense to attach an automatic supply of lubricants to the machine. If drilling is a single and rare case, then the drills are processed immediately before drilling. As lubricant use a mixture of machine oil and sulfur. In this case, sulfur can be taken both colloidal and for fumigation, well known as “sulfur color”.
If it was purchased in powder form, then the substance is simply mixed with machine oil. When the sulfur is lumpy, it still needs to be ground. An effective cooling lubricant is a mixture of sulfur and fatty acids, which can be obtained at home from ordinary laundry soap.
To do this, perform the following steps:
- a bar of soap is rubbed, and the resulting mass is poured with hot water;
- technical hydrochloric acid is carefully poured into the soap solution;
- when fatty acids float to the surface, pour in cold water;
- wait until they harden and remove the top layer.
When creating a cooling material, fatty acids and sulfur are taken in a 6:1 ratio. The effort and time spent are justified, because this composition will help drill through even the thickest stainless steel.
Drill selection
Choosing a reliable drill is an important step when preparing for drilling. On sale you can find foreign tools manufactured according to the DIN-338 standard and marked HSS-CO. It makes it clear that the composition contains at least 5% cobalt, as in old Soviet drills. You can recognize a stainless steel product by its obtuse sharpening angle, which makes alignment easier when starting work. Such a tool is easy to obtain in any specialized store at an affordable price.
As for carbide tools, they are suitable for processing stainless surfaces and products made from this material. But problems may arise with its acquisition, since such drills are not available in every hardware store, plus they cost much more.
When choosing tools, you should purchase only high-strength products. You can look for old cobalt drills, which are still considered the best. If you fail, then you should stick to products from Ruko, Bosch, Gross, Hilti, which are available in most stores. The price depends on the diameter, for example, a 3 mm tool can be bought for about 100 rubles. The larger the diameter, the higher the price. It will not be difficult for real craftsmen to adjust the angle of a conventional drill if they have a diamond wheel at home.
Our brother, the peasant, inevitably has to be able to do everything that is needed in the house. I'm not saying that a man should be able not only to eat, but also to cook, even if a woman cooks excellently. Sometimes you need (and can) surprise a woman: she came, and everything is already ready, just sit down. At worst - not everything, but something very tasty, so that a woman will miss at least once her second (third, fourth...) job, shift, shift, or whatever they call it. Despite the fact that they like to say that they love to cook (some...), but still this (cooking) is not a very simple thing in terms of organization and time. If a man only eats, this spectacle and this fact will someday come out in conversation, and then there will be countless reproaches. Some time will pass, and again we will be inclined in all cases. Who will like it? Therefore... you need to take part in the “process”. Although often you don’t even want to accept it... But you need to understand it too... Not everyone just files their nails. Not everyone.
You will be “well done” if you do something necessary, as they say, “socially useful” - take out the trash (especially on your own initiative), peel onions, potatoes (the list is long). Before this, you can even bring all this from the store, including some chicken (the list is huge). You just need to spend some time together on cooking, cleaning (here is the list again...) And then everything will be OK in the relationship (most often, I hope)
They say women can do anything, but this is not true. If a woman can do everything, then it’s probably worth taking a closer look at her, or better yet, asking her what her man is doing. Or she spoiled him so much that he doesn’t do anything. It’s good if he earns a lot at the same time. But then... Yes, let's not talk about sad things...
But there are things that a woman cannot do. Not women, but a woman. Women can do anything, especially when they are all together. Then they can give one guy a head start. All together... But it happens that a woman is faced with being electrocuted, as it happens to me, and not for the first time, by the way. It’s strange, he hits her, but he doesn’t hit me. Paradox... Elephant skin or something, or drum skin... In short, it doesn’t penetrate me. But her...
But since the thunder struck, we must... not be baptized, but quickly eliminate possible reasons electric shocks. Turning on the voltmeter, I once saw 188 Volts, and after a couple of minutes only 5... It beat between gas stove and a sink in the kitchen. Stainless steel sink... It is possible that some eccentric, with the letter “mu”, they are also sometimes called wise men, put his electricity problems on the water supply system, because he is too lazy to do grounding, and it costs a lot of money. And here I somehow tied the wires to the water pipe, and that was the end of it. Maybe they won't get caught. And who will catch it, who needs it? But on others we have...
I went to Google regarding how grounding should be done correctly, I was interested in what the resistance should be on the grounding loop. The fact is that I had a grounding loop made by my predecessor. Of course, some time has passed, but over time the value of this resistance, according to the rules equal to 0.05 Ohm, unfortunately, does not become smaller.
The laboratory kindly offers to measure this very resistance for only 2000 rubles. And I’m almost sure that this resistance is not 0.05 Ohm.
The solution was born immediately and a long time ago: you need to connect with a thick wire “6 square” those cases between which tension was noticed. Obviously, the wise man turned on his installation for a while, but then only 5 Volts remained. You can try to navigate by these 5 Volts. The most important thing is that now there is time to do this - the problems with the roof have now faded into the background - the workers did the roof, although not everywhere well, but this can already be corrected, because their omissions, which were not reported by me in time after the calculation, become mine. Now I need to pay off, well, you know, with whom... Therefore, now we can fall on... electrical safety, which is what we are doing.
The six-square wire, of course, was purchased a long time ago. I have long ago purchased everything that is needed to correct the consequences of the activities of that possible asshole who created this situation at my sink, which is beating some people... And now I need a trivial thing - to connect an electric sink with the body of a gas and also an electric oven produced by the company I respect, Bosh. . The description, as always, was not in place and on time. I called the store where we bought this miracle stove. The question was: where is the point to which the grounding can be connected in this device? The seller said that you need to connect the ground to the plug, to its ground pin.
To be honest, this contact always seems insufficient to me, somehow ephemeral. Consciousness begins to imagine large currents that can flow through this, in my opinion, frail contact, which is carried out in such a strange way. It’s another matter when there is a petal on the case, or some place where you can connect this very grounding.
But since we are being pushed to take such a step, we have to try, connect to this wire on the plug, which is precisely the grounding contact and the body of our stove is connected to it.
In order to join the sink, you need to create constant contact with the sink. Connecting a clamp with a grounding wire to the sink will be ugly, they will immediately blame me for this, I know this very well. This means you need to drill into the stainless steel to create the connection.
But here’s the problem: stainless steel cannot be drilled, especially from the side direction where this very connection will not be visible. I go to Google with a question: how to drill stainless steel? It turns out that you need to use... and sulfur (?!) for drilling, and to prepare all this, you need laundry soap mix with hydrochloric acid and... Read there how it all becomes complicated, although all this probably should be done, but where should you run for acid in the evening?
Fortunately, someone smart advised to drill, firstly, on very small rpm (this was all advised, advisers from former country Soviets, and what they did not advise, in particular, to use... Soviet drills made of P9 and P18 steels). Well, where can you find them now, in the evening? Everything we have is imported, even... drills.
It is necessary to use drill cooling from oil and other liquids. But I have nothing except a screwdriver and a couple of drills. And the surface that needs to be drilled is located vertically and you cannot lift this very sink in order to provide yourself with at least some convenience, so that you can at least press the screwdriver with the drill... In a word, there is a problem.
And secondly, clever man I recommended such exotic things for drilling as... lard. I reached into the refrigerator and didn’t find lard, although I know for sure that we have it somewhere. Let me try, I think... smoked-boiled brisket, which I chew almost every day. Before this, I tried drills, both high-quality German ones and cobalt ones, yellowish in color. All in vain. And the speed changed from minimum to maximum. Nothing helped, we only managed to make a tiny hole on the stainless steel, and then the drills refused to do their job. But I took a piece of brisket, plunged the drill into the place where the fat was, turned on the speed, put the fat on the drill and began to drill my recalcitrant stainless steel with a “cobalt” drill. I had to “gain fat” on the drill a couple more times and, lo and behold! I got a hole in the stainless steel. And the thickness of this stainless steel is just a little bit, but it stubbornly refused to be drilled...
After a couple of minutes, the hole was expanded in the same manner to three and a half millimeters, then a bolt with washers was inserted, and between them a wire, at one end of which a cable lug was pre-soldered for a bolt with a diameter of 4 millimeters. On the other side of the bolt, a lamb was placed so that it was possible to conveniently strengthen contact with the stainless steel of the sink, which turned out to be practically slightly disfigured by the protruding ball head of the bolt. Everything else was hidden in the space under the sink.
Why am I describing all this in such detail? After all, I still need to make a wire on the other side, connecting it to the electric stove. I just wanted to emphasize in this way that such exotic things as salo, in my case played a key role. If lard had not helped, laundry soap and machine oil would have been used (the list is small, alas), but lard helped here too. In general, I really respect lard, especially with streaks of meat, taken from the freezer and thinly cut on a machine
So, if anyone has to drill stainless steel, then this is what you need for success: a sharp new high-quality drill that is harder to the point of dental burs, low speeds and... lard, as... a coolant. (I even looked on the website at how the British drill, or rather, burn holes in stainless steel. But that’s them...)
Well, and then, after everything that has been done, everything that needed to be done, maybe as an appetizer, the Woman won’t beat you, I hope... The winners of the problem are usually not judged. Although, anything can happen...
