Shuttle mechanism of a Janome sewing machine. DIY Janome sewing machine repair. Causes of needle breakage

"A-Iceberg" - 25 years with you. 5 million repairs completed.

We repair Janome sewing machines quickly, efficiently and at an affordable price.

Service Center "A-Iceberg" offers professional repair Janome sewing machines at home in one visit. Technicians with many years of experience eliminate faults of all complexity categories in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Applications are accepted online on the website or by phone: 8 (495) 213-33-33 .

Inexpensive repair of Janome sewing machines any day of the week

Departure upon request on any day to all districts of Moscow and the Moscow region. We use modern equipment that allows us to carry out high-precision diagnostics and eliminate any breakdowns in the shortest possible time, without causing the loss of functionality of other components of the unit. Our engineers are well versed in the design of sewing machines of all types and brands, including Janome.

We repair both mechanical and electromechanical models with equal quality, as well as machines with complex electronic and microprocessor (computer) controls. All faulty parts replaced with original spare parts. Consumables purchased from reliable suppliers. A warranty card is issued without fail, and all consultations regarding the rules of operating and caring for the sewing machine are provided free of charge.

Common breakdowns

Malfunction
The electromechanical sewing machine does not start and there is a burning smell.	Break internal wiring or motor windings, packet switch failure
The electronic sewing machine does not start, there is no burning smell	Failure of the computer or control module integrated into the machine
The needle breaks	The needle is loosely secured in the needle bar or is not securely twisted, as a result of which its length is artificially increased, and it breaks when it hits the shuttle (it is necessary to insert the needle all the way), the number of the needle and the shape of its blade do not correspond to the type of fabric being sewn; wear or poor fastening of the foot, displacement of the needle bar, incorrect installation of the shuttle touching the needle with its “nose” or upper plate. Perhaps the user installed an industrial needle instead of a regular one, or forcibly advanced the fabric with his hand
The stitched material is difficult to advance	Misalignment of the foot, due to which the material is pressed only by part of its surface, wear of the teeth of the lower conveyor rack, incorrect technological dislocation of the rack, incorrect adjustment of the stitch length
The upper thread breaks	The threads are not threaded correctly or their quality does not meet the requirements of the machine, the thread number is incorrectly selected to match the needle number, the bobbin case lock spring is weakened (it will need to be replaced). Perhaps the thread breaks, clinging to burrs encountered along the path of the thread to the needle
The lower thread breaks	The screw or spring that regulates the tension of the lower thread has a protrusion or pointed edges; the bobbin case pulls the bobbin thread too tightly, the edges of the bobbin are worn out, the threads are of poor quality
Stitches are skipped	Incorrect needle height adjustment, as a result of which the loop is not captured by the “nose” of the shuttle; the needle is bent or its tip is worn out, the settings for the synchronous operation of the needle and the shuttle are off, the needle does not match the type of machine. First you should check whether the needle is installed all the way and on the wrong side.
The lower and upper threads go in a zigzag, the machine sews poorly	Blockage or formation of a slot under the leaf spring of the bobbin case; the threads wound on the reel and bobbin are unevenly distributed over them; clogging of the space between the washers of the upper thread tension adjustment device with pieces of fabric. Perhaps the top thread is not tensioned enough and the bottom thread is too tight, and vice versa, or both threads are not tensioned enough or too tight
The fabric is “picked up”	One of the threads is not tensioned correctly, the presser foot does not press or pinches the fabric, the sole of the presser foot is worn out, the teeth of the lower conveyor rack are in a high position
The car is hard to pick up speed	The unit is clogged with dirt, hardened lubricants or waste sewing products; the space between the bushing and the flywheel is filled with threads

Guarantee for the work of the master

We provide full cycle services for affordable prices, including post-warranty service, providing technical support, preventive maintenance and repairs of any level of complexity. Our specialists perform:

• repair and replacement of the motor, packet switch, display and its cable, integrated computer and control unit
• replacement of wiring and power cord
• adjusting the position of the needle bar and shuttle
• replacing the foot, bobbin case, needle and front thread guide
• repair and replacement of the upper shaft, zigzag block and copy lever block, friction device, manual, foot and electric drives
• replacing the lower conveyor rack and adjusting its position
• stitch length adjustment
• setting needle and hook synchronization settings
• eliminating blockages under the leaf spring of the bobbin case, between the washers of the upper thread tension adjustment device, between the bushing and the flywheel
• general cleaning of the unit

Trust the repair of Janome sewing machines in Moscow to engineers Service Center“A-Iceberg”, and you can significantly extend the life of your “home assistant”.

Once a week I always get a call and a completely upset girl’s voice informs me that the newly purchased machine is completely broken and does not want to sew.

1. The most common “problem” is that the car suddenly starts to weave heavily. Loops 2 centimeters long are formed from below, they are wound around the shuttle and everything gets terribly tangled. Simple logic tells the young lady that since the loops are from below, then there is a problem with the bottom thread. After which, on the Internet there is advice about adjusting the lower thread and the inspired fairy unwinds the bobbin case, the parts scatter on the floor, and a sobbing, trembling voice is heard in my phone.

If you don’t get to the point of unscrewing the bobbin case, then the situation can be easily saved. All you need to do is correctly fill the top a thread.

The trouble is that many instructions do not clearly describe the procedure for threading the upper thread into the thread take-up. General principle Refills are most easily understood from the page from the instructions for Pfaff 1142:

The most important thing here is to raise the presser foot, turn the handwheel so that the thread take-up is in the upper position and thread the thread into the thread take-up.

If the machine still makes giant loops on the wrong side, check the threading again. More than once I have met ladies who swore with all the treasures of the world that everything was threaded correctly, that she had been sewing for a hundred years and could not make a mistake, and upon arrival our specialist discovered that the thread had not gotten into the thread take-up. After this, the ladies turned very red in the face, apologized profusely and gave him a hundred rubles for the trouble.

Correct threading allows you to cut off 99% of cases of strong looping on the wrong side. The remaining percentage may indeed be due to machine malfunction. Usually this effect is caused by burrs on the needle plate or in the shuttle and is best addressed to a qualified mechanic.

2. The second “problem” often arises among buyers of the Janome MyExcel w23u machine. Symptoms of a breakdown are as follows: the LED does not light up and the needle lift button does not work.

This “malfunction” can be treated very simply - you need to move the bobbin winder axis to the left position.

Another one is connected to the winder frequently asked question- Why doesn’t the bobbin snap off when winding is finished? Having become accustomed to this behavior of the winder on the Chaika, the buyer waits for a click and presses the pedal with all his might. However, in most modern machines, the bobbin does not unlatch. As winding proceeds, the rotation speed simply slows down and the winder stops.

3. Owners of machines like Janome 7518a (1221, etc.) often come to us with the question “Why does the machine sew slowly and growls loudly?”

These machines have a limiting switch on the pedal. maximum speed. You can accidentally press it with your foot and not notice it. If the car growls at you, just check the position of this switch.

4. If the stitching turns out to be “loose”, there is no tension in the upper thread, pronounced loops are visible from the inside, and the lower thread is stretched by a string - rethread the machine with the presser foot raised. Perhaps the thread did not get into the tensioner plates. Another reason is that a piece of thread or other debris has gotten into the tensioner plates and is preventing them from coming together. Try, with the presser foot raised, to clean the space between the plates with a piece of thick thread.

If the bobbin thread tension is lost, check to see if debris has gotten under the tensioner spring on the bobbin case (bobbin holder). Do not attempt to clean under this plate with a needle or other metal objects. If you scratch the shuttle, you will be tortured to repair it. Better take a toothpick.

5. I have two favorite questions - why the stitching is herringbone and why you can see the “dots” from the top thread. There is only one answer to these questions - you need to use threads of the appropriate thickness.

I like the seams on my shirts. Smooth, straight, you’ll just admire them. Now you can see what threads are used to sew a good men’s shirt and compare their thickness with a “magpie” from the store. It turns out that the threads on the shirt are twice as thin. At the same time, shirt fabric is not the thinnest. The problem is that it is very difficult to find high-quality threads on sale with a thickness less than No. 50. On suiting fabrics and with a stitch length of 3 millimeters, the “magpie” gives an ideal stitch on almost any machine. And if you try to sew thin silk with a needle No. 90, threads No. 40 and stitches 1.5 mm long, the “Christmas tree” will appear in all its glory, regardless of the design of the shuttle.

“Herringbone” must be on any lockstitch machine, since the upper and lower threads are intertwined with a “rope”. It is enough to mentally remove the fabric from the seam and imagine how the threads are intertwined, it becomes obvious where the “herringbone” comes from. The herringbone becomes almost invisible if the interweaving of threads is formed deep between the layers of fabric, and for this the thread should be no thicker than the warp thread. Also, the visibility of the Christmas tree is affected by the length of the stitch. It is possible (on industrial machines) to reduce the visibility of the “herringbone” on the front side if you slightly rotate the needle around its axis, but then on the back the “herringbone” will become more noticeable.

6. Pulling of the fabric when sewing zig-zag and decorative stitches is also not a malfunction. The laws of physics cannot be abolished, and if you try to perform a wide zig-zag with a “magpie” pattern on a thin and loose fabric, then only an adhesive stabilizer will help to avoid contraction. You can, of course, try to loosen the tension of both threads and take thinner threads, but a radical method is a stabilizer.

7. A knocking sound when sewing at the time of puncture is in most cases caused by a dull or unsuitable needle. Correct selection needle gauge is especially important when sewing from thick fabrics. A universal needle with a rounded tip cannot move apart the tightly woven fibers of the material, and punches a hole with a knock. For such fabrics you need to have in stock sharp needles labeled Jeans and Microtex. After replacing the needle, the knocking, in most cases, disappears.

8. Another “problem” that customers regularly encounter is the lack of a foot for making buttonholes in the kit. It's easy to find - it lies separately from the main set of legs, in a removable table under a hinged lid. Janome overlockers often “lose” the converter for two-thread seams. It is unsuccessfully packaged in a bag, separate from other personal belongings, and hangs on a pin for installing coils.
In Husqvarna Emerald computer machines, sometimes an entire pedal is “lost”! The manufacturer has provided a convenient place for it inside the case.

9. I also remembered the “problem” with turning off the teeth of the fabric conveyor. The teeth are perfectly turned off by the corresponding switch, they fall down, but they don’t want to come back, no matter how much you click the button. The casket opens simply - the conveyor teeth rise to the working position after a full revolution of the flywheel. All you have to do is move the switch back and start sewing.

If I remember anything interesting, I’ll add it here.

19 May 2011
www.site

A. Removing the top cover

2. Close the protective cover, lift the handle and remove the screw to the left of the handle.

3. To remove the cover, press the latch inward at the base of the handle and remove the cover and handle.

B. Removing the side cover

2. Remove the screws from the bottom of the machine A And B. Screw B the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

3. Position the machine upright, and remove the plug from the side cover below the flywheel using a small screwdriver.

4. Remove the screw WITH.

C. Verification

1. After checking the relative position of the parts, look at the upper shaft from the side of the right support, between the support and the shaft limit washer. Check for any darkening or scuffing of the shaft. If there is any darkening, the shaft and support bushing must be replaced.

2. Loosen the locking screw on the left end of the upper shaft. Try to move the shaft from left to right. If the shaft does not move, this also indicates that the shaft and bushing must be replaced.

D. Shaft replacement

1. To begin the shaft replacement procedure, place the upper counterweight shaft in front of you so that you can access the locking screw and the positioning washer screw. Note that the single blade on the positioning washer is on the right (remember the position). Remove the fixing screw and the positioning washer screw.

3. Remove the screws A And IN.

4. Remove the thread drive unit (thread take-up unit) and place it behind the machine.

6. Using a hammer and 3.0mm core, remove the pin from the counterweight.

7. Position impact screwdriver or a core at the end of the upper shaft in counterweight (see inset). Knock out the shaft to the right about 1.5 cm.

10. Remove the upper shaft. Remove and set aside the retainer, retainer screw, positioning washer and its screw.

11. Lightly tap and use a small screwdriver to knock out the upper shaft bushing towards inside cars. Be careful not to damage the molded parts of the seats when doing this.

12. Install new bushings, install the bushings with the rounded end into the mounting hole...

13. ...make sure the bushing is flush with the seat casting.

14. Remove the retainer, bushing and counterweight onto the new shaft.

15. Remove the flywheel by pulling it out.

17. Remove the balance wheel and the metal and plastic washers.

18. Remove the belt pulley by turning it clockwise and pulling it out.

19. Remove the clutch springs from either end of the shaft ( A) or belt pulley ( B) by rotating clockwise and pulling out.

20. Use a 2.5 mm screwdriver or hexagon to drive out the upper camshaft camshaft pulley pin and remove the pulley, washers and clutch shaft bushing.

22. Remove the shaft from the ring coupling. Use an impact screwdriver...

23. Install the pulley onto the new shaft using a 1.5mm hex driver.

24. Install the oil seal washers, clutch bushing and ring coupling with right side shaft

25. Hold the clutch bushing with a 2.5mm hex screwdriver and position it so that the bushing moves no more than 0.5mm from left to right. Then tighten the 2 clutch screws.

26. Install the clutch springs inside the clutch bushing by rotating the springs clockwise. The spring must be installed in the groove of the clutch bushing.

27. Install the belt pulley by rotating it clockwise until it stops.

28. Install the plastic washer, followed by the metal washer. Install the balance wheel with the flat side facing the belt pulley.

30. Install the flywheel, making sure that the tabs on the flywheel fit into the slots on the balance wheel.

31. Insert the left end of the upper shaft through the belt into the mounting sleeve.

32. Thread the end of the upper shaft through the positioning washer, clamp, seal and counterweight. Remember that the single blade of the positioning washer should be on the right.

34. Move the release lever toward the front of the machine to protect it from impact from the clutch bushing.

35. Install the counterweight pin through the shaft (a 1.5mm hexagonal screwdriver can be used to strike). If the pin does not fit through the shaft, remove the pin, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall the pin.

36. Position the machine with the counterweight facing forward. Move the shaft to the right, slide the lock to the left and tighten the lock screw.

37. Place the positioning washer in such a position that it is positioned with a single blade to the right and up. Install the washer and screw, move the positioning washer to the right or left so that the blades pass through the sensor without hitting it. Tighten the screw.

38. Install the winder with screw. Make sure the end of the spring fits into the molding hole as shown in the picture.

41. Place the white thread guide between the two black parts of the thread holder.

42. Secure the thread drive unit with screws A and B.

Settings

1. Remove the presser foot, needle and spool cap plate. Loosen the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

2. Before adjusting the hook, make sure the presser foot is in the down position. Insert the needle from the left.

3. Adjust the hook and needle so that the nose of the hook is approximately 1 mm above the eye of the needle in the left needle position.

4. Tighten the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

5. Install the bobbin case, needle plate and presser foot. Plug in the power cord and turn on the machine. Select a Zig Zag stitch (stitch #8). Turn the handwheel so that the needle begins to swing left and right. The needle should be 7.8 to 8.2 mm above the surface of the needle plate when rolling.

6. As a reference point, the needle should swing at the level of the presser foot when the presser foot is in the raised position.

7. To adjust, loosen the upper shaft positioning washer screw.

8. Turn the positioning washer in direction A if the needle tip is more than 8.2 mm above the needle plate and in direction B if the needle tip is less than 7.8 mm above the needle plate. Tighten the screw.

Installing the Side Cover

3. From the bottom of the machine, install screws A and B. Screw B is the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

Installing the Top Cover

1. To install the cover, press inward at the base of the handle and install the cover together with the handle.

Good luck with the renovation!

All the best, writeto © 2011

What are you going to fix on your sewing machine? Nothing regarding products from Stalin's time... It still works today. Modern ones are tormented by breakdowns, a lot of settings go wrong, requiring correction to get the desired result. We have nothing against progress, but historians consider a society preoccupied with consumption to be an intermediate stage. Like a tax on bridges built by medieval feudal lords to impose tribute on pedestrians. It got to the point of insanity: structures were built out of the blue to make a profit. Poor quality things, akin to ancient savagery, will become a thing of the past. Repairing sewing machines with your own hands is a pleasure! The weaker half is strong in needlework when there is a strong helper at home.

History of the sewing machine

In 1953, Clifford Simak's short story, A Ring Around the Sun, was published. Plot gist: There are countless myriads of Earths in orbit, located in parallel universes. Events developed against the backdrop of the curious invention of the eternal light bulb. Then the evermobiles appeared. Clifford described the fall of the consumer society, a product was bought once, used for a lifetime, remember Stalin... A revolution happened, working people, afraid of losing their jobs, began to destroy modernized factories, the most interesting thing was that they were built by people moving between dimensions. In a ring around the Sun.

Until 1829, inventions in the field of sewing machines will be called unsuccessful, although Leonardo da Vinci created the first drawings that future generations would follow. During the era of manufactures, the French tailor Thimonnier created a wooden model, which immediately began to be copied and reproduced. One replaced several apprentices. There were mass demonstrations of artisans who saw a threat to existence (I wonder what the rulers will do if scientists create a computer that makes decisions and can grimace, and they will immediately destroy it?). Things went far: 200 local tailors destroyed the workshop of new mechanical sewing machines, Timonier had to flee, fearing for his life. This is not the first time: the inventor of the loom suffered a similar fate.

Surviving Fruits of the Technological Revolution

During his life, Thimonnier created a billion modifications of the sewing machine. Some technical solutions are still used in household and industrial modifications. 300 stitches were made every minute by today's machines electric models capable of delivering three times more. For 200 years! The frequency of computer processors doubles every two to three years (growth has decreased since 2010). The Thimonnier sewing machine worked with silk and other delicate fabrics.

At the same time, in 1834, Walter Hunt invented a model with a shuttle, reminiscent of modern ones. By 1848, Elios Howe created the first sewing machine containing the features of the current ones. The fabric feeder appears. The sewing machine is equipped with a horizontal curved needle, makes 300 stitches per minute, and replaces three tailors. US workers rebelled and destroyed the workshop. The inventor had to flee, fearing for his life. The last stitch was probably made by Singer. I gave the needle vertical movement by introducing modern look jagged strips pressed with a foot. In 1900, a Podolsk workshop was built, where October revolution 5000 people worked. Initially, Singer spare parts were imported from the USA, then they began to be manufactured in Russia.

Brother, Janome, Bernina, and other brands of sewing machines appeared. People are afraid of change, but change is inevitable. Revolutionaries slow down progress. Imagine if inventors gave up on promising technologies. Humanity will continue to explore caves and trees instead of cities with multi-story buildings.

Setting up the sewing machine

I immediately remembered modern energy-saving light bulbs. I had a chance to talk to an old sewing machine, and it became clear that the technology had probably retained the principle and settings since its invention. The quality of the parts is not what it used to be. Although they opened smooth surfaces(nanotechnology), created strong alloys. The main shaft with a crank transmission is inserted inside. It powers moving parts sewing machine. What will be indicated below affects the repair of manual sewing machines:

1. The needle is directly connected to the shaft. To ensure translational movement up and down, a cranked transmission is installed inside. The needle has an eyelet where the thread is threaded. When moving downward, the fabric is pierced, the loop is captured by a shuttle moving in a circle, in one direction, in the other. In 1 revolution of the main shaft it manages to run back and forth.
2. The shuttle is driven by a separate shaft connected to the main one via an elbow. The movement phase is adjusted with a screw. You can rotate the auxiliary shaft relative to the main one. Synchronous movement is achieved. Let's discuss repairing the sewing machine hook.
3. The third component that ensures the movement of the fabric along the seam in the desired direction is the serrated strips. Made of steel, they move like human legs when walking. They go down, go forward, go up, go back. There is one cycle for each stitch.

It is important to set the vertical position of the gear bars correctly. When the needle is inserted into the fabric, the top edges of the teeth will be level with the sewing machine table.

Unlike other devices, gear bars are driven by two shafts. One is responsible for horizontal movement, the other for vertical movement. The adjustment method is the same. A tightened screw on the axis of the corresponding shaft, changing the position of the segment relative to the phase of the main shaft. The correct setting of the gear bars is achieved.

It is important to ensure the correct position of the needle relative to the shuttle. Remember three guidelines to follow. Please note: concerns modern models, the old ones are designed differently, and adjustments are required once every hundred years (twice since the invention)!

1. In the lower position, the eye of the needle is 4–6 mm below the nose of the vertical shuttle.
2. The nose of the shuttle is compared with the edge of the needle - the distance between the upper edge of the hole and the nose is 1 mm.
3. When the upper edge of the eye coincides with the lower edge of the hook nose, the latter should extend beyond the needle by 1 mm.

Approximate guidelines, you can use, decorate the horizon, the need to repair sewing machines with your own hands.

Wise mother correctly instructs her daughter

What is regulated in sewing machines?

Repairing the electric drive of a sewing machine is not the only thing you can do. The heel pressure is adjusted so that the fabric stops sliding. This is done with a special screw. There is a spring inside, so the adjustment can be approximate and will rarely be needed. The above concerns the length of the stitches. For thin fabrics, more frequent strokes are recommended; for thick fabrics, sparse strokes are recommended. In mechanical machines, the reverse is often turned on by hand; it’s inconvenient when you need to sew on a patch; it’s better to forget about the inscriptions altogether.

It is much more important to correctly set the tension of the lower and upper threads. If done incorrectly, a number of unpleasant effects will occur when using a sewing machine:

1. If the top thread tension is loose, there will be loops at the bottom of the seam. Corrected by a special adjustment mechanism until the result is satisfactory. You can loosen the bobbin thread using the bobbin screw. It is important to know: the tension is not allowed to be too weak - the seam will not work at all - too strong - the thread may break. The last two cases are malfunctions, take note.
2. If you pull the top thread too tightly, the fabric will begin to tighten. Visible by the jagged, billowing edges. You can release the top thread and tighten the bottom thread. Please note: don't go too hard. Overstretched the thread breaks, as mentioned above.

Ideally, the interlacing of two threads occurs inside the material. When the needle rises from the lower position, the loop is captured by the shuttle. A turn is made, an interweaving is formed. The needle rises and tightens the stitch. If the thread is inserted incorrectly, it breaks. YouTube shows a video: a working sewing machine was taken for repair, the master did nothing, took 1000 rubles, and returned the product. Then the situation came to light, dissatisfied clients disturbed the guru. The money was returned, accompanied by a little verbal parting words.

With a dull, thin needle, skipping stitches occurs. The thread number corresponds to the needle number. In modern sewing machines one feature to consider. For each needle, a guide stop was placed under the table surface to prevent the tip from moving to the side. The thicker the fabric, the greater the distance to it. Unfortunately, we cannot provide any indications of a malfunction, just keep in mind: a similar setting has been noticed. Repairing a foot-operated sewing machine has a special feature: the drive is turned on remotely. Except for the button there is little difference. Repairing a sewing machine pedal is more akin to carpentry and soldering.

Basic, typical malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of sewing machines: poor stitching, thread breakage, needle breakage.
Skipping stitches in the stitching of a sewing machine and overlocker appears if a low-quality thread or needle of the wrong thickness is used. The size of the gap between the needle and the nose of the shuttle (loopers in an overlocker) also affects this.
Defects such as “bias stitch” and broken upper and lower threads can usually be eliminated by adjusting the tension of both threads. But, if, after adjusting the tension, stitch defects do not disappear, then you will have to adjust the interaction of the shuttle stroke and the needle, the mechanism for advancing the fabric, etc. This is especially typical for the Chaika sewing machine. Moreover, if the installation parameters of the “Seagull” shuttle are off, then it is quite difficult to make such an adjustment yourself. But mostly eliminate sewing machine malfunctions and problems can be done by correctly adjusting the thread tension, replacing the needle, lubricating and cleaning the machine.

After disassembly, the upper thread tensioner is not assembled correctly.
- Incorrect threading.
- Poor quality threads.
- The thread number does not match the needle number.
- The spring of the bobbin case lock has weakened.
Inside the bobbin case you can find a very small screw, and if you unscrew it, the lock mechanism can be removed and you will find a long spring. Try to stretch this spring slightly, but it is better to buy a new bobbin case.
- There are nicks and burrs along the path of the thread to the needle.
Carefully follow the path of the thread and, after detecting nicks, remove them with a small needle file. In older Podolsk-type machines, there may be thread cuts on the tensioner rod. Disassemble the tensioner and inspect the rod; if there are such cuts, remove them with sandpaper.

2. Reasons for breaking the bottom thread

The reason for the bottom thread breaking may be a low-quality thread, for example, cotton thread from Soviet times.
- The screw that presses the spring (plate) on the bobbin case protrudes excessively.
The tension of the lower thread is often adjusted, and sharp nicks appear on the screw head. The lower thread, wrapping around the bobbin case, clings to them and breaks off.
- The lower thread tension in the bobbin case is too tight.
- There are nicks on the edges of the bobbin.
The thread gets between the bobbin and the walls of the bobbin case and breaks. Change bobbins as soon as the first nicks or chips appear.
- The edges of the bobbin are bent, there are gouges from the needle and nicks.

3. Looping the lower and upper threads. Bad line

The thread on the spool and bobbin is unevenly wound. Do not wind the thread onto the bobbin by hand, use a special device. Evenly laying the thread on the bobbin ensures the same uniform thread flow. Hand-wound thread can get caught in other turns and pull the upper thread more than it should. As a result, loops appear at the bottom.

Dirt or fuzz or thread trimmings have gotten under the leaf spring of the bobbin case.
- A slot has formed under the leaf spring on the bobbin case. This happens after many years of intensive use of the sewing machine. You should not fix bobbin case malfunctions yourself, except for cleaning and adjusting the thread tension. The best solution to troubleshoot a bobbin case is to buy a new case.
- Weak tension on both threads.
- Strong tension on both threads.

4. Poor fabric advancement

Weak foot pressure.
- The sole of the foot is skewed, and it does not press the fabric with its entire surface.
- The teeth of the rack are dull.
- is set to embroidery mode or the teeth of the feed dog are too low and do not catch the fabric well. Correct position teeth when sewing medium thickness fabric: with the maximum rise of the feed from the needle plate, the teeth should rise completely, but not higher than the height of the teeth. Their position too high will create a “fit” in the fabric or tighten it.

5. Reasons for needle breakage

The needle number does not match the thread number or fabric thickness.
- The needle is bent.
- The needle is not inserted into the needle bar all the way.
- The needle does not pass through the center of the needle hole of the plate. The needle must pass exactly in the center of the hole in the needle plate. Make sure that the needle does not touch the rail while using the sewing machine. Incorrect needle position may be caused by a bent needle bar.
- The needle bar position is set too low or high.
- Incorrect sewing. While sewing, do not pull the material by hand; find the reason why the machine does not advance the fabric well. Adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric.

6. Skipped stitches

The needle is too high when it meets the nose of the hook and it does not catch the needle loop. See Setting up the shuttle of the Chaika sewing machine.
- The needle is bent or the needle point has become dull.
A curved needle can be identified in the light by twisting it on a flat and dark plane.
- The needle is not installed all the way or incorrectly, on the wrong side.
- Using a needle that is not intended for this sewing machine. Often, industrial-style needles are used in household sewing machines. They do not have a cut on the flask and are absolutely not intended for such machines.
- The settings for the interaction of the needle and the shuttle are misaligned.

In this video you will learn the reason for the expensive repair of a sewing machine caused by a broken toothed drive belt. You will also learn recommendations on how to avoid this sewing machine breakdown.

If the foot drive is, one might say, a complete antique, then here it is manual drive can be used, especially for beginners learning to sew. Read this article to learn how to repair this device yourself.

The main malfunctions and malfunctions of these sewing machines, as a rule, are not related to its adjustment. Sometimes it is enough to install the needle correctly, replace low-quality threads, select the correct tension of the lower and upper threads, and the machine will work perfectly again.

A broken needle on a sewing machine is a sign that it requires “serious” tuning or adjustment. But, often, setting up the sewing machine is not required; it is enough to stop pulling the fabric while sewing. The second common cause of needle breakage is sewing thick fabrics that are not intended for sewing on this model of sewing machine.

Skips occur due to the fact that the nose of the shuttle “meeting” the needle does not pick up the upper thread from it. Either it is located far from the needle ( big gap), or the top thread loop is formed too early or late, or too small size. That's all the reasons, simple, isn't it? All that remains is to find out why this happens and how to eliminate these malfunctions.

The line loops, which means that the top thread “slows down” during movement and an excess of it appears. There are many reasons for this, ranging from the uneven thickness of the thread itself to the shuttle stroke. Start by carefully tracing the path of the thread. Perhaps it just clings to the fine notch of the thread guide.

It's rare, but sometimes you can find foot-operated machines. The best decision Instead of repairing the drive, install an electric drive on the machine. This is done quite easily and anyone who has a screwdriver can install it with their own hands. But, if you need recommendations on how to carry out repairs, adjustments foot drive, this article is at your service.

Sewing machine faults and problems It will be easier to fix if you understand how the sewing machine works and which part is used for what. Study carefully the structure of your machine according to the instructions or using our article.

The machine must be lubricated at least once a year. But don’t overfill it with oil. Oil tends to dry out over time, and the resulting clumps of dried oil can cause some sewing machine malfunctions.

The bobbin is that inconspicuous detail that no one pays attention to. And it is this that causes many problems and malfunctions of the sewing machine. You can disassemble the entire machine without finding the reason for the “looping” of the stitching. And as soon as you replace the bobbin with a new, smooth and light one, the stitching will be even and beautiful.

A sewing machine needs lubrication like oil for your car engine. But we take care of the car and wash it with shampoo almost every week. Why not then wipe the body of the sewing machine from dust and clean it with a brush? internal mechanisms so that they are clean and dry, without traces of oil and thread frays.