Growing cherries in the middle zone. Growing cherries in central Russia Preparing the planting pit

Cherry for central Russia is a new crop that came from the south. Cherry fruits have a harmonious, sweet taste and contain a lot of dry matter and sugars, mainly glucose. And also: carotene, nicotinic and salicylic acids, magnesium salts, potassium, iron, phosphorus and trace elements. Dark-colored fruits containing many P-active, phenolic and coloring substances, coumarins, have an antisclerotic effect. Fresh cherries are an excellent remedy for improving digestion and maintaining immunity.

ABOUT CULTURE
Cherries are decorative not only during flowering, but throughout the entire summer. The crowns of the trees are transparent, symmetrically folded, with large, beautiful leaves that play in the sun. In mid-summer, the branches bend from the abundance of ripe fruits, colored yellow, pink, red and black. In addition, cherries are a good honey plant. But one of the main advantages of cherries is the trees’ high resistance to such dangerous fungal diseases as moniliosis and coccomycosis. That is why it is gradually replacing cherries, which are severely affected by these diseases, although they are more winter-hardy.
« Right choice varieties are the main factor determining the success of cultivating fruit and berry plants,” pointed out I.V. Michurin. It must be regionalized and tested by specialists in the area. Now in the Central region of Russia, one and a half dozen varieties have been zoned. The most common ones, bred at the State Scientific Institution VSTISP Rossel-khozakademi and the All-Russian Research Institute of Lupine, are such as: Fatezh, Chermashnaya, Tyutchevka, Teremoshka, Revna, I put, Bryansk pink, etc.
According to the leading cherry breeder N.G. Morozova, these varieties perform well in the Moscow region. We worked with the varieties Fatezh, Chermashnaya and Teremoshka in the Demonstration Garden of the State Scientific Institution VSTISP of the Rossel Economic Academy (Moscow region) and in the garden of the Scientific and Production Center of Biotechnology “Fitogenetics” (Tula region). The main test for them was the harsh winter of 2005-2006, when frosts in the Moscow region after a thaw reached -34.5°C, and in the Tula region - up to -39°C. The studied varieties withstood the frosts satisfactorily: freezing did not exceed 2 points, while in other varieties of cherries and sour cherries complete freezing of the generative buds was observed. But in the Tula region, cherry varieties suffered more severely from the frost of -39°C. The Fatezh variety turned out to be the most winter-hardy here, which in subsequent years completely recovered and was distinguished by abundant fruiting.

Characteristics of the studied varieties.

FATEZH. The variety was obtained by H.K. Enikeev and A.I. Evstratov (GNU VSTISP Rosselkhoz Academy) from free pollination of the Leningradskaya yellow variety. Zoned for the Central Region in 2001.
It is characterized by winter hardiness and productivity. The fruits are of high quality, mid-early ripening (July 9-15), weigh from 4 to 6 g, round-flattened, pink, with a red blush. The pulp is dense, gristly (bigarro type), juicy, light pink. The taste is sweet and sour (4.7 points), dessert. The fruits contain 19.8% dry matter, 12.3% sugars, 0.5% acids, 28.8 mg/100 g of ascorbic acid.
The stone is small, well separated from the pulp. The connection between the fruit and the stalk is weak and the separation from it is dry. Fruits of universal use.
Trees up to 5 m high begin to bear fruit at 4-5 years of age and bloom in the 1st decade of May. Despite its self-sterility, thanks to pollinating varieties such as Chermashnaya, Krymskaya, Sinyavskaya and other simultaneously flowering varieties, Fatezh cherries can produce up to 50 kg/tree. more than 20 years. Its winter hardiness is higher than that of other cherry varieties, and its resistance to moniliosis and coccomycosis is close to absolute.

FUCKING. The variety was obtained by H.K. Yeni-keev and A.I. Evstratov from free pollination of the Leningrad black. Regionalized in the Central region in 2004. The variety is different early maturation and high productivity. Fruit good quality, ripen in the 2nd half of June, weighing 4.5 g, round, yellow. The pulp is yellow, juicy, tender. The taste is sweet with sourness 4.4 points, dessert. The fruits contain 17.0% dry matter, 11.5% sugars, 0.6% acids. The stone is small, well separated from the pulp. When ripe, the fruit is easily and almost dry torn from the stalk.
It begins to bear fruit in the 3rd-4th year, blooms in the 1st decade of May. The variety is self-fertile, pollinated well by the following varieties: Fatezh, Sinyavskaya, Krymskaya, etc. Fruits up to 18 years, yielding 25-30 kg/tree. Resistance to winter frosts is slightly lower than that of the Fatezh variety. Immune to moniliosis and coccomy goat. Resistance to spring frosts is above average. Trees up to 5 m high.

TEREMOSHKA. This variety was bred at the All-Russian Lupine Research Institute by breeders M.V. Kanyina, A.A. Astakhov, L.I. Zueva and zoned in the Central region.
The variety is distinguished by its moderate tree growth, productivity and large bigarro-type fruits.
The fruits weigh 5-6 g, oval-heart-shaped, dark red (almost black). The pulp is dark red, dense. The taste is harmonious, sweet and sour (4.7 points). Fruits of medium-early ripening (2nd decade of July), contain 17.5% dry matter, 15.5% sugars, 0.4% acids, 14 mg/100 g of ascorbic acid. The stone is small, well separated from the pulp. The separation from the stalk is dry. Fruit cracking in wet years is insignificant.
The variety begins to bear fruit at 4-5 years of age, blooms in the 1st decade of May, and produces 15-20 kg/tree. Winter hardiness and frost resistance are average. Highly resistant to moniliosis and tolerant to coccomycosis.

LANDING
To successfully grow cherries, it is necessary to follow certain rules when choosing a place for planting, as well as during planting and subsequent care of the plant.
Place. Currently, cherries can be cultivated in the European part of Russia up to the latitude of St. Petersburg. It is better to plant it next to the cherry tree or where it grew, on the upper or middle parts of a gentle slope (5-8°), southern, southwestern and southeastern sides. It is useless to plant cherries in lowlands or river valleys.
Drafts are contraindicated for cherries, especially from the north and east, so before planting it is necessary to provide appropriate cover
(in the form of shields, or better yet, forest strips of birches and other tall trees). It should be borne in mind that the groundwater level should not exceed 1.5 m.
The soil texture should be light, medium loamy or sandy loam, well drained, cultivated, with a pH close to 6.
Landing. Dig a hole 70x70x60 cm, on clay soils- at least 100x100x90 cm. The top fertile layer of soil (20-30 cm) is thrown to one side, the bottom - to the other. A stake is placed in the center of the pit. 2/3 of the hole is filled (in a mound) with the top layer of soil mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers: 15-20 kg of rotted manure or compost, 1 kg of simple or 0.5 kg of double superphosphate, 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate (potassium chloride, or 1 kg of wood ash - to reduce acidity. To avoid burns, lime should not be added).
Planting is carried out by two people: one installs a seedling on the north side of the stake, spreads the roots over the mound, and the other fills them with fertile soil. To fill the gaps between the roots with soil, the seedling is slightly shaken when backfilling and the soil is carefully trampled down. After planting, the root collar (the place on the seedling where the roots end and the stem begins) should be located 3-5 cm above the soil level. A hole is made around the seedling and the plants are watered (1-2 buckets of water). When the water is absorbed into the soil, the hole is mulched with peat or humus to preserve moisture. The seedling is tied to a stake with twine or film in the shape of a figure eight. When the level of groundwater is high, plants are planted in flower beds with a diameter of 2.5-3 m and a height of up to 1 m. It is better to plant a cherry orchard according to a 5x4 m pattern.
Cherry is a self-sterile, cross-pollinated crop, therefore, for regular and good fruiting, it is necessary to plant at least 2 (and preferably more) trees of different varieties. One of the best, universal pollinators (according to N.G. Morozova) is the Crimean variety. Although it is small-fruited, this drawback can be neglected, because it guarantees high fruit set in other varieties growing nearby.

CARE FEATURES
Fertilizers. In the first year after planting, there is no need to apply organic and mineral fertilizers. In the next three years, they are limited only to the spring application of 20 g of urea per 1 m2 of the trunk circle. When trees begin to bear fruit, annually add per 1 m2 of tree trunk circle: 10 kg of manure or compost, 25 g of urea, 60 g of simple or 30 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate (potassium chloride) or 200 g of wood ash.
During the period of full fruiting (at the 7-8th year of life), the norms of organic fertilizers are increased to 15-20 kg/m2 of the trunk circle, and the same amount of mineral fertilizers is applied. Urine is applied in the spring, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied in the fall; the tree trunk circles are immediately dug up to a depth of 15-20 cm. Closer to the trunk, the digging depth is reduced so as not to damage the roots.
Depending on the acidity of the soil, liming must be carried out every 5-6 years, adding 400-800 g of slaked lime per 1 m2. On light soils the lime rate is reduced, on heavy soils it is increased. In autumn, lime along with potash fertilizers are scattered over the soil and dug up.

Watering.
In dry summers, especially before the harvest ripens, trees are watered. Closer to autumn, watering is limited or stopped completely.

Trimming.
Cherry trees must be pruned annually: shaped, thinned and rejuvenated (as the tree ages). Remove all branches growing inside the crown, forming sharp forks, rubbing neighboring branches, shorten long branches that violate the symmetry of the crown, remove standard and root shoots. When a tree ages, its growth is greatly shortened (up to 15 cm), the fruits become smaller and fall off early, and the general condition of the tree deteriorates. In this case, it is necessary to shorten the branches of the 1st order (growing from the main trunk) to a side branch directed outward. They also carry out sanitary pruning, removing dry branches. Cuts on the tree must be made, without leaving stumps, on a ring, with a well-sharpened tool and processed garden varnish. To reduce growth, trees, after entering abundant fruiting, are pruned at a height of 2.5-3 m to a strong lateral branch.

Disease prevention.
When cultivating cherries and other stone fruit crops, gardeners in the Moscow region often encounter the following phenomenon: in May the trees bloom profusely, then, after a short period of growth, individual skeletal branches or trees dry out entirely. Most often this is associated with damage to the forks of skeletal branches or the trunk by a fungal disease - cytosporosis, the mycelium of which easily penetrates through the loose tissue of the bark of the forks and trunk. Therefore, one of the main measures for caring for cherries is the spring and autumn whitewashing of the trunks and the bases of skeletal branches, which will protect the trees not only from this fungal scourge, but also from sunburn. It is better to use it as a whitewash mortar(3 kg of freshly slaked lime + 2 kg of clay per bucket of water). If it is difficult to find freshly slaked lime, then you can purchase a special one in gardening stores. water-based paint, intended for whitewashing fruit trees. It is good to add to both lime mortar and such paint for better protection against fungal infection. copper sulfate.
Of the cherry pests, the most harmful are the weevil, cherry fly and aphids. To combat the weevil in the spring, it is good to use special glue, applying it in wide rings to the trunk and the base of the skeletal branches. A soap solution (300 g of soap per 10 liters of water) or preparations: Decis, Inta-Vir, etc. are used against cherry flies and aphids. To protect against pests, you can also hang traps on trees in the form of small containers with fermented kvass slurry or jam.

Read about this topic on the website:

How to develop sandy soils Greenhouse shelter “Shalashik” Compatibility and successful placement of plants

When growing cherries on summer cottage V middle lane it is necessary to take into account that these trees are less cold-tolerant than other fruit and berry crops. Because of this feature, plants are more often damaged by frost both during the winter cold and during short-term spring frosts. Otherwise, the technology for growing cherries is in many ways similar to the agricultural technology for cultivating cherries.

Sweet cherry belongs to the bird cherry species; it is found wild in Central and Southern Europe, Asia Minor, and the Caucasus. In these regions, selection occurred in prehistoric times best forms and their domestication. Today, about a thousand varieties of cherries are known in the world.

You will learn about how to grow cherries in the country and which varieties are most popular among gardeners on this page.

Cherry is a southern fruit crop; due to the lack of winter hardiness of most varieties, it has not become widespread in the Central region of Russia, but recently varieties with increased resistance to frost have been created. They are successfully grown in central Russia.

The description of the cherry is as follows. The plant is a large tree with an ovoid crown. It can reach a height of 20 m, modern varieties - about 12 m. Cherry roots can go to a depth of more than 2 m, but the bulk of the roots are concentrated in a layer up to 1.3 m.

The leaves of the cherry are petiolate, elliptical, up to 16 cm long, 6-8 cm wide, with a sharp tip, double-serrate along the edge. Flowers with a reddish calyx and a white corolla, about 3 cm in diameter, are collected several times in umbel inflorescences. The fruit is a spherical drupe with white, yellow, red or almost black skin and juicy pulp. The stone is spherical or ovoid, smooth.

When growing in central Russia, keep in mind that cherries are among the early-bearing fruit crops; they are distinguished by annual fruiting and early ripening (certain varieties in the southern regions of the country are harvested in mid-late May). In favorable conditions, a tree lives up to 100 years and begins to bear fruit at the age of 4-7 years.

How to grow cherries: planting and propagation

The plant is heat-loving, not winter-hardy enough, inferior in these characteristics to apple and cherry, but superior to apricot and peach. Flower buds freeze slightly in winter at a temperature of -24-25°C. During the flowering period, temperatures below -2.2°C are destructive.

Trees also suffer winter time from temperature changes and sunburn, which leads to damage to the trunk and the base of skeletal branches. It grows poorly in areas with very hot summers. Cherry is demanding on soil moisture, but does not tolerate stagnant water. It needs loose, breathable soils.

The technology for growing cherries, agrotechnical measures when preparing a site for planting, applying fertilizers, planting and caring for this crop are similar to those for caring for cherries.

Most cherry varieties are self-sterile, so at least 2-3 varieties are planted on the site, taking into account the presence of pollinators. For proper care behind the cherry tree, the feeding area when growing trees should be 6x8 m.

This crop is propagated mainly by grafting. The longevity and productivity of a crop largely depends on the selection of a rootstock for its propagation. The best rootstock for most varieties of cherries are seedlings of wild cherries, and for crops grown on sandy loam and sandy soils - Magaleb cherry. On heavy soils, the best rootstock for cherries is common cherry.

Basic agricultural techniques for growing cherries are shown in this video:

Caring for cherries: pruning and crown formation (with video)

Crown formation and pruning when caring for cherries are somewhat different from similar techniques for cherries, since this crop has strong growth and low shoot-forming ability. Young trees develop a well-developed trunk, on which strong skeletal branches grow, extending at an acute angle. Cherries are grown, like most fruit crops, in a sparsely layered system.

When caring for cherries, shoots that extend at an angle of at least 45° are selected for laying the first tier. Due to the low shoot-forming ability, shoots are greatly shortened to prevent exposure of skeletal branches. Skeletal branches are shortened by half their length.

In varieties with good shoot-forming ability, the shoots are shortened by a third of their length.

Shortening the skeletal branches of the first tier allows you to lay 2-3 skeletal branches of the second order on them. The second tier of skeletal branches is laid at a distance of 80-90 cm from the upper skeletal branch of the first tier. Subsequent skeletal branches are laid at a distance of 50-60 cm from the previous ones.

When forming the crown, strong branches growing inside the crown and located between the tiers are cut out. The height of the cherry crown is limited to 4-4.5 m, cutting out the central conductor at a height of 2.5 m from the ground and reducing the crown by transferring it to the side branches.

Note: thinning significantly improves illumination internal parts crowns, increases the durability of overgrowing formations, which helps to lengthen the fruiting period on older main branches.

Anti-aging pruning. When the growth of annual shoots in mature trees dies down and does not exceed 15-20 cm, they begin rejuvenating pruning, to which cherries respond well.

When rejuvenating pruning, along with thinning the crown, overgrown branches are cut into 2-3-year-old wood, which causes the growth of new young shoots. With the help of pruning, new top shoots are transferred into overgrowing branches, on which bouquet branches are formed. After rejuvenating pruning, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the tree trunk circles for digging.

During the fruiting period they carry out sanitary pruning.

Watch a video about caring for cherries, which provides recommendations from experienced gardeners:

The best varieties of cherries for different regions: photos and names

IN State Register selection achievements included more than 70 varieties of cherries, the names of the best of them are presented below.

The best varieties of cherries for the Central region:

  • very early: Chermashnaya.
  • early: Gronkavaya, Iput, Raditsa, Sadko.
  • mid-early: Ovstuzhenka, Fatezh.
  • mid-season: Gift of Ryazan, Rechitsa, Teremoshka.
  • mid-late: Odrinka, In Memory of Astakhov, Revna, Tyutchevka.
  • late: Bryanochka, Bryanskaya pink, Veda, Lena, Lyubimitsa Astakhova.

See how these varieties of cherries look in the photo:



The best varieties of cherries for the Central Black Earth region:

  • very early: Beauty Zhukova.
  • early: Ariadne, Italian, Oryol fairy, Early pink.
  • average: Adelina, Orlovskaya pink, Poetry.

The best varieties of cherries for the North Caucasus region:

  • Early: Valery Chkalov, Early Dagestan, Improved Caucasian, Beauty of Kuban, Memory of Pokrovskaya, Sashenka, Morning of Kuban, Yaroslavna.
  • Mid-early: Goryanka, Dagestan.
  • Mid-season: Alexandria, Velvet, Bereket, Rosinka, Rubinovaya Kuban, South.
  • Mid-late: Scarlet, Annushka, Golubushka, Lezginka.
  • Late: Contrasting, Mac.

These photos show the varieties of cherries whose names are given above:




Useful properties of cherries

Cherry fruits contain a large amount of biologically active substances necessary for humans: dry substances - up to 20%, sugars - up to 15%, organic acids - up to 0.9%, vitamin C - up to 15 mg%, as well as a large set of mineral salts. Cherries also contain vitamins PP, Bi, B2, E, K, and carotene, which are useful during pregnancy and lactation. Due to the large amount of valuable substances contained in the fruits, they are recommended for children.

Thanks to high beneficial properties Cherries are recommended for stimulating the activity of the kidneys and liver, improving blood circulation and blood clotting, and stimulating intestinal activity.

Cherry cultivation is practiced for the use of berries in cooking. Compotes, jams, candied fruits, juices, wines are prepared from them, frozen and canned. The kernel of the seeds contains up to 30% oil, which is used in the perfume industry.

Gone are the days when cherries were grown only in the southern regions. Now varieties have been developed that allow residents of the Moscow region and even the Leningrad region to enjoy berries from their garden.

  • Read about.

Choosing cherry varieties

When solving this important issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the flowering period of the tree and the fact that many varieties are self-sterile. That is, for good fruit setting, it is necessary to plant not one, but at least 2 trees of different varieties that would bloom at the same time. A photo will help you see what this beautiful tree looks like, although who hasn’t seen it in person...

In the southern regions, warmth sets in early, so flowering trees there are practically not affected by frost. In cooler areas, early ripening varieties may be susceptible to this problem as cherries bloom in the spring. But, if you want to taste the berries as early as possible, then, during frosts, you can cover the cherry trees with non-woven material, make smoke fires near them, etc.

  1. Homestead yellow. Fruitful, winter-hardy cherry. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is self-fertile.
  2. Orlovskaya amber. Winter hardiness is average, the variety has good yield, and is resistant to coccomycosis. The average weight of tasty, large yellow-pink fruits is 5.5 g.
  3. Iput has excellent winter hardiness, is resistant to coccomycosis, and is partially self-fertile. The fruits weigh 6–9 g, dark red, almost black in color. Growing Iput cherries is preferred by many gardeners.
  4. Raditsa. The fruits ripen very early. The variety is winter-hardy, high-yielding. To obtain fruits that are dark red in color, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby, since this variety is self-sterile. The tree is low-growing and has a compact crown.
  5. Chermashnaya has high winter hardiness. Fruits weighing up to four and a half grams are yellow in color. The berries are sweet and juicy. The variety is self-sterile and has good resistance to fungal diseases.
  6. The trees of the Ovstuzhenka cherry variety are low, with a spherical dense crown. The fruits weigh an average of 5 grams and are dark red in color. The variety is winter-hardy and productive.
Mid-season cherry varieties:
  1. Fatezh. Winter-hardy, high-yielding variety. The tree is medium-sized, self-sterile, with a spherical-spreading, drooping crown. The fruits are pink-red and shiny. The taste is sweet and sour.
  2. Pobeda is a productive variety that is resistant to fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is good. The fruits are large, excellent taste, red in color.
  3. The cherry variety Revna is winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, and has excellent resistance to coccomycosis. The fruits have a sweet taste, dark red, almost black, and do not crack when ripe.
Late ripening cherries, varieties:
  1. Tyutchevka is winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis. The tree is medium-tall with a spherical, semi-spreading crown. The fruits are dark red in color, large, weigh 5.5–6 g, and have excellent taste.
  2. Revna is a partially self-fertile variety, highly resistant to coccomycosis. The tree is pyramid-shaped and medium-sized. The fruits are almost black in color - dark burgundy, and have an excellent taste.
  3. Bryansk pink is one of the most late varieties. Resistant to diseases. In the fifth year it begins to bear fruit. The tree grows to medium size. The fruits are pink on the outside and light yellow on the inside, and do not crack.

Planting cherries

Like many fruit trees, cherries can be planted in autumn and spring. Each term has its advantages and slight disadvantages. In the spring, you need to have time to plant a cherry seedling before the heat sets in. In the middle zone it is the end of April. That is, the period is short. But in the fall it lasts longer. At this time, cherries are planted from the beginning of September to the end of October. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root before the onset of frost, then it will overwinter better.
It is important to choose the most optimal place in the garden. Since the cherry tree is a guest that came to us from the south, it is necessary to plant it where it will be warm. You need to choose a place that is not exposed to cold northern winds. It is better to place the seedling on the south side of other garden trees. Also, on the north side, the tree can be covered by the wall of a building or fence. The place for growing cherries should be well warmed by the sun; shadows from other trees should not fall on it.

In the lowlands the tree will feel uncomfortable. Usually there high level groundwater, so the roots of the tree will become damp, and the tree itself may die.

Once you have decided on the location, you need to consider the timing of planting cherries. Even winter-hardy varieties cannot be planted if the air temperature is below 0°C. At the same time, when planting in spring, it is necessary to carry out work before the buds swell. Therefore, autumn planting is most optimal. However, if you purchased a young seedling with a closed root system, then it can be planted almost at any time - from the end of April to the end of October, but it is better to do this when there is no extreme heat, then the cherry will take root better.


The hole for the seedling is dug in advance, this will allow the soil to settle. It is made large - with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 70 cm. 2-3 buckets of well-ripened compost, humus, or a combination of these organic fertilizers are poured here. Minerals also need to be added. Pour 200 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of potassium sulfate into the hole. Mix mineral fertilizers with organic ones, shape the humus and compost into a mound. Place the seedling on it, straightening the roots. Drive a peg nearby and tie a tree to it.

Fill the hole with fertile turf soil. Carefully water the cherry seedling with 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch trunk circle peat. Press this area with your foot, placing the sole perpendicular to the seedling - with the toe towards it. Make sure that the root collar is at soil level.

This completes the planting of cherries. Of course, it is better to carry it out in cloudy weather; if the morning after planting it is hot, cover the seedling with non-woven material. If you are planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between them.

Formative pruning of cherries

It is necessary to trim off unnecessary branches and shape the tree annually, since cherries are different rapid growth. This is done only in early spring, before the buds have yet opened.

Until the tree begins to bear fruit, its annual shoots are shortened annually by 1/5 of their height. When the cherry tree enters the fruiting stage, shortening pruning is stopped. Only branches that grow incorrectly are cut out - directed towards the crown, half of the shoot is removed if two branches form an angle of less than 50°. It is necessary to cut out diseased, dry branches.

To increase the yield, the following technique is used: the sharply growing branches are bent so that they are at an angle of 90° from the trunk. To do this, weights are hung on the branches of a young tree or the ends of the branches are tied to pegs driven into the ground.

Cherry care

It is imperative to weed the ground under the crown, since cherries do not like weeds. Gradually increase the diameter of the trunk circle. In the second year it should be 1 meter, after another 3 years 150 cm. This entire area should be cleared of weeds.

Cherries are watered and then fed three times a season. This should be done this way: first loosen the soil around the tree trunk, while simultaneously choosing weeds. Then, in several steps, water the tree with water heated in the sun, then water it with a nutrient solution.

IN initial period After bud break, dissolve 5-8 g of urea in 10 liters of water and water the tree with this fertilizer. You can see this feeding organic, diluting 800 g of manure in 10 liters. water. Make sure that the fertilizer does not get on the root collar, otherwise it may rot.

Next they make 2 mineral supplements cherry - the first - during the budding period, the second - at the beginning of fruit set. For this fertilizer, dilute 1 glass of ash and 30 g of double superphosphate in 10 liters. water.

For better pollination, you can spray the flowers with a sweet solution, placing 1 tbsp. l. liquid honey in 1 liter. water. Bees will flock to the smell, and the harvest will be plentiful.

Sweet cherries and cherries are close relatives of the rose family in taste and appearance. It is not surprising that many people confuse them, and some peoples do not even have a separate name for cherries. And yet these cultures are different - cherries have a sweeter taste and are more whimsical. She loves the sun and warmth, but if desired, she can. The main thing is to approach the matter correctly.

The most important thing is to choose. You need to focus on the winter-hardy varieties Severnaya, Tyutchevka, Fatezh. In order for the trees to bear fruit well, you need to plant several seedlings of at least 2 varieties - cherries do not like being alone. You can select varieties of seedlings so that the cherry orchard will bear fruit from late May to early August. Early varieties include Mayskaya, Rannyaya Duki, and late varieties include Amazon.

If the size of the plot is limited, it is worth grafting several different varieties of cherries onto one tree, choosing those that differ from each other in terms of ripening time and frost resistance. It is necessary to vaccinate before active sap flow begins.

Correct landing is half the success

Cherry is a capricious crop. For her the most best place is a highland, since in the spring the earth warms up there faster, in the summer cold air masses do not accumulate, as in the lowlands, and groundwater is far away. Cherries should be planted in the south or south-west side of the plot on sunny place. Under no circumstances should you plant it in the shade of a house - it will bear fruit poorly.

Cherries are planted in autumn or spring. The pits are prepared with a depth of 60 cm and a width of 80 cm. The distance between them is 3-3.5 m. At the bottom of each pit it is necessary to pour 1-2 10-liter buckets of humus or rotted manure, 300-400 g of superphosphate, 120 g of potassium sulfate. Cherries love fertile lands.

Care

Care consists of periodically fertilizing the soil, careful pruning, etc. In order for a plant to bear fruit well, it is necessary to attract pollinating insects to it. Therefore, at the beginning of flowering, you can spray the flowers with a solution of honey - for this, stir 1 tbsp in 1 liter of water. l. honey

It is necessary to feed cherries before flowering (one-time feeding is enough), so that the tree receives maximum nutrients even before fruit sets. Cherries are very fond of this mixture: mix 4 parts clay, 1 part mullein, 1 part ash and dilute with water until it becomes thick sour cream. Water the tree with this mixture.

To make cherries lighter, in September you need to feed the plant with superphosphate (50 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m).

Cherries must be trimmed very carefully. You should not be overzealous with formative pruning; it is enough to carry out sanitary pruning - when dry, diseased and broken branches are removed. They should be pruned in early spring before buds appear. All cuts must be immediately covered with garden varnish - cherries are easily affected by pests.

Green (summer) pruning is also acceptable. It involves removing the tops of green (current year) shoots, as well as shoots growing inside the crown.

Diseases and pests

Sweet cherries are very often affected by pests, especially aphids. To get rid of it, you can spray with tobacco infusion with soapy water (40 g of soap, 200 g of tobacco crumbs diluted in 10 liters of water). This must be done 20 days before fruiting, no later.

Cherries are also affected by the fungal disease coccomycosis. With this disease, the leaves become covered with red spots, turn brown and dry out. To cope with it, you need to remove the affected branches and spray the tree with a fungicide.

Nadezhda Yablokova, Moscow region.

Fruit trees (cherry, apricot, peach and others) are particularly demanding of climatic conditions and soil.

Despite this, there are many varieties of stone fruits that do well not only in southern regions, but also in cooler climates. In central Russia, growing cherries is not at all difficult if you provide the tree with proper care.

Compliance with certain rules will help not only to get a healthy, strong tree, but also to increase its productivity. Thanks to large selection varieties of cherries, you can choose the most suitable for any climate zone.

Following the advice of care experts, growing this fruit tree won't cause much trouble. Some simple secrets They will help you grow a magnificent cherry orchard in just a few years and get an excellent harvest.

The best varieties

When choosing seedlings for growing in a garden or country house, it is very important to pay attention to the zoning of variety and species. Southern varieties may not tolerate frost and die, so it is best to pay attention to breeding varieties.

Bred specifically for the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow, Tula, Ivanovo and other regions), cherry varieties have all necessary qualities to get a good harvest.

Factors to pay attention to when purchasing a seedling:

  • Frost resistance level. The higher this indicator, the better.
  • Tallness. U low growing plants lower chance of freezing. These varieties are also characterized by high productivity.
  • Timing of flowering and fruit set. It is recommended to choose seedlings of not too early varieties. This reduces the risk of freezing during spring frosts.
  • The need for pollination. It is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties. Even when planting one plant, there is no need for cross-pollination, so you can get a good, abundant harvest.

Taking into account all the factors, as well as the characteristics of the soil and the size of the plot, you can decide on the most suitable varieties of cherries for growing in the garden.

"Adeline"

The medium-ripening variety is perfect for growing in small areas. garden plots. The tree grows up to 3 meters in height, has a comfortable pyramidal crown and does not thicken. Productivity of "Adeline" is above average - healthy mature tree produces up to 60 kg of juicy berries.

The advantage of this variety is its good winter hardiness and disease resistance. At good care Cherries very rarely get sick with coccomycosis and moniliosis. In dry summers it may be vulnerable to pests.

The first fruits appear in the 4th year of the seedling’s life. The yield will increase as the cherries mature to 45-60 kg. The heart-shaped berries have an average size weighing 5-6 g. The pulp is juicy red and easily separates from the seed.

The cherry variety "Adeline" takes root well in the Middle Zone and in the climate of the Central Black Earth Region. For planting, it is recommended to choose 2-3 year old seedlings - this will ensure their better survival rate and reduce the risk of contracting diseases from other fruit crops.

"Gronkavaya"

The medium-sized variety is characterized by high yield and increased resistance to disease. Excellent for growing in large gardens. The “Gronkavaya” cherry was bred by Belarusian breeders from the “Severnaya” variety.

The large, dark red fruits are quite shelf-stable and easily transported. Suitable for universal use.

Due to the fact that the variety calmly tolerates even very low temperatures, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone and other regions with cold climates.

Varietal characteristics and features:

  • High yield (up to 70 kg per mature tree);
  • Winter hardiness index - above average;
  • Early ripening, self-fertility, high disease resistance.

Care requirements:

  • Since the tree is tall with a spreading crown, it is recommended for growing in large areas. To obtain maximum yield, it is advisable to provide good lighting and regular soil moisture.

"I put"

The cultivation of Iput cherries in the Middle Zone and the Central region began in the early 90s. The variety was obtained by crossing the hybrid forms “Leningradskaya Chernaya”, “Pobeda” and “Zhabule No. 15”.

Thanks to excellent varietal characteristics and simple care, has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Medium-sized trees have high yields and are capable of producing more than 90 kg of juicy berries.

Sweet cherries have large, juicy, dark red fruits. The stalk is short, thick, the stone is separated with part of the pulp. The average weight of berries is 6-7 g, can reach 9 g. The pulp is juicy, sweet, of medium density.

Caring for and growing cherries of this variety does not require special skills or conditions. Due to its high winter hardiness and resistance to coccomycosis, it is excellent for growing in the Middle Zone.

Planting seedlings

The place for planting cherry seedlings should be prepared in advance. A well-lit place, protected from drafts, is selected on the site. In the autumn, even before the onset of frost, a hole is dug 70 by 70 cm or more, depending on the growth of the selected variety.

It is advisable to plant several seedlings of different varieties at once, but at the same flowering time, so that they are natural pollinators of each other.

The soil should be fertile, light, well permeable to moisture. The most suitable areas are with loamy or sandy soil. It is not advisable to plant any variety of cherries on clay or peaty soil!

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole prepared for planting to avoid stagnation of the inputs. A third of the hole is filled with a soil mixture of fertile soil and humus. In this form, the planting hole remains until spring - the most optimal time for planting cherries in the Middle Zone.

In early spring, when there is no longer any danger of frost, fertilizers are added to the hole and mixed well with fertile soil. 2-3 year old seedlings are planted so that the root neck protrudes several centimeters above ground level.

After planting the tree, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. For better survival of cherries, the top of the soil is covered with mulch.

Caring for young and mature trees

Young seedlings should be pruned immediately after planting (at approximately 100 cm height). Next season, side shoots will develop from dormant buds to form a crop.

In the 2nd year after planting, the tree is pruned by about 1/3, leaving only well-developed skeletal branches at a level of 90-110 cm. In the next season, the crown is formed depending on the plant variety.

Most an important condition for caring for cherries is proper watering. It is very important to provide the tree with moderate moisture so that it develops properly and to avoid the development of diseases.

Stagnation of moisture can be detrimental to the plant, so in case of high groundwater, it is recommended to choose varieties with a small root system. Most optimal solution There will be columnar and ornamental trees.

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle zone in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

Sweet cherries: the best varieties for a personal plot

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

  • Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
  • Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
  • Late flowering. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
  • Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick shortened petioles with three to four flowers white. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Name Ripening time Weight Color Taste Tree height Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia mid-early large, 8 g Yellow-pink dessert average No
Fatezh Early July 4 g Rose red dessert average Yes
Bryansk pink End of July 4-5 g pink-mottled sweet average winter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery Chkalov Early July 9 g raspberry excellent dessert medium height winter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
Veda July 4-5 g dark red the pulp is dense, sweet low-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, rounded Yes
Olenka early Up to 10 g red to black dessert stunted increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky June 4-5 g Red to black sweet and sour tall winter-hardy
Revna mid-late 5 g Bordeaux sweet Medium height winter-hardy
Motherland June July 6 g Bordeaux sweetish Medium height very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Gold June July 6 g yellow sweet with honey aftertaste low-growing Yes

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and cover them from sunburn with plywood, boards, and non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove with their upper part to the south, with their roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

  • During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
  • Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
  • Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

  • remove “soaked” roots;
  • trim very long root ends;
  • cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
  • tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings are dealt with, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high groundwater levels, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

  • humus - 3 buckets;
  • ash – 1 l;
  • superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
  • potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers at autumn planting do not apply to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, they tie the plant to a support and, stepping 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

  • The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
  • In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened - for reflection sun rays and for disease prevention purposes.
  • During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
  • The first 2-3 years in the spring they add only nitrogen fertilizers– they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
  • Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset warm period there is no risk of freezing. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

Cherries are valued by gardeners for their high yield and unsurpassed taste of the berries. Many people consider this crop to be too demanding in terms of growing conditions, but this is a misconception. In order for cherries to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, the planting and care of which are covered in detail in our material, you only need to choose the right variety, protect it from frost and ensure timely watering and fertilization.

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and Moscow region good harvests They produce the following varieties: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:

  • Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;
  • The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

Growing cherries will be successful if the seedling for planting is chosen correctly. His age should not exceed three years (optimally two years). The recommended height of the purchased seedling is at least 80 cm, and it has 3-4 strong shoots. There must be a grafting site on the trunk, which indicates the varietal identity of the seedling. Bark healthy plant smooth, without signs of disease or freezing.

Cherry seedlings from the nursery prepared for transplanting

Root system planting material The cherry tree is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If root system the seedling is very dry - when cut, the light brown core is visible, you can revive the seedling. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

Cherries bear fruit well in a sunny area on the south side

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils Not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to reduce the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Sweet cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. Optimal timing spring planting V open ground- end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

Preparing a planting hole for cherries

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After planting, you need to water the tree abundantly and mulch the tree trunk.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvesting

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional care.

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

It is recommended to grow several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers(superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Cherry trees are pruned in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees; summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Protecting cherry fruits from birds using old computer disks

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries as preventive measures They use early spring (during the swelling of the buds) spraying with a urea solution. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

Cherry affected by clasterosporiosis

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Ascarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Autumn whitewashing of cherries

Young seedlings need shelter. You should not wrap them with artificial materials (lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

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