Fence construction: distance between posts. Correct calculation of fence posts is the key to structural strength. Optimal distance between fence posts

Owners of country houses, summer cottages, as well as residents of the private sector in cities, often face the problem of installing fencing. A high-quality fence on a concrete foundation requires a significant investment of effort and financial resources. This may be justified if you have large plot outside the city, where you want to be reliably protected not only from neighbors and passing traffic, but also from stray animals. Small areas within the city or in a holiday village are most often fenced with chain-link mesh, which does not shade green spaces, and its installation takes little time even without the involvement of professionals.

What you will need

To ensure that the installation of the fence takes as little time as possible, you need to prepare in advance and calculate the quantity required material and tools.

To install a chain-link fence you will need:

• Chain-link mesh in calculated quantities with a small margin.

• Pillars.

• Wire for attaching the chain-link to the posts.

• Fastening elements (plates, brackets, clamps, nuts, bolts) - depending on the chosen installation method.

• Hammer.

• Pliers.

• Bulgarian.

• Welding machine.

• Materials for preparing concrete (if necessary, concreting pillars).

To determine the required number of chain-links, posts and other fasteners, the first thing you need to do is measure the perimeter of the fenced area. The simplest and most reliable measurement option is using a stretched cord.

To do this, you need to drive pegs into the corners of the area that will be fenced, and stretch a strong thread, fishing line or wire, the length of which will subsequently be measured. The measurement result will be equal to the required number of linear meters of mesh.

However, you definitely need to add a couple of meters of reserve. Fence posts are installed on average at a distance of two and a half meters from each other, but no closer than two meters.

Knowing the size of the perimeter of the fenced area, it is easy to calculate required amount supports and, accordingly, the approximate number of fastening elements, which, however, varies depending on the selected type of fence structure.

Types of structures

The main types of chain-link fence designs:

• Tension fence without guides. The easiest to install and affordable option. To install such a fence, it is enough to dig in the posts and cover them with mesh, attaching them to the supports with wire. For such a fence, pillars of any shape and any material are suitable. This design is perfect for a temporary fence or fencing within a site.

• Tension fence with guides. This type differs from the previous one in the presence of two longitudinal guides, which can be either wooden (beam) or metal (pipe). This design looks more solid and holds its shape better, however, on heaving soils, installing a fence with metal guides is not recommended due to possible ruptures when the soil moves.

• Sectional fence. This type of fencing is a series of metal frame sections welded to posts, into which a chain-link is mounted. Frames for the mesh are made by welding from a metal corner. The mesh is also installed by welding. This type of fence is the most stable, visually more presentable, but also more expensive option.

Net

Today, chain-link mesh is produced in several types:

• Non-galvanized. The cheapest and shortest lasting. Such a mesh requires mandatory painting, since after a short time after installation it will certainly begin to rust. Service life when unpainted is no more than three years. Suitable for temporary barriers. Recently, it has hardly been used for more substantial structures.

• Galvanized. It does not corrode, is durable, easy to install, does not cost much more than non-galvanized chain-link, has become widespread and is firmly a leader among other types in terms of sales.

• Plasticized. This type of chain-link appeared relatively recently and is a wire mesh with a special protective coating. Combines everything positive traits galvanized mesh with greater aesthetics. Very durable, but also more expensive.

• Plastic. This mesh is made entirely of plastic and is available in different colors with various shapes cells. It can be used for boundary fences between neighbors or for fences within a site. As a fence from the street plastic mesh not suitable due to its insufficient strength.

Important! When choosing a plasticized chain-link, you should familiarize yourself with the quality certificate of the product for sale, since a low-quality coating may not withstand the test of weather conditions, as a result of which it will crack and rust.

Another criterion for distinguishing types of chain-link is the size of the cells. Basically, the cell size varies from 25 mm to 60 mm. However, there are also meshes with cell sizes up to 100 mm.

The most suitable size for an external fence is considered to be 40-50 mm, but it is better to fence the poultry yard with a net with smaller cells, through which even the smallest chicks will not be able to crawl through.

Having decided on the type of chain-link and selected an option that is suitable for all parameters, it is necessary to carefully inspect the roll for damage and deformation.
Even a slight bend or curvature of the wire when installing the fence can result in a serious problem.

The edges of the chain-link must be bent. Moreover, the “tails” of the wire should not be shorter than half the length of the cell.

Did you know? The mesh was invented and patented at the end of the 19th century by the mason Karl Rabitz, and at first it was used for plastering walls.

Pillars

The basis for a chain-link fence are pillars, which, depending on the type of structure and the soil underneath, are either simply dug into the ground or concreted.

The following types of supports can be used to install chain-link fencing:

• Wooden. Since wood is a short-lived material, such supports are only suitable for a temporary fence. An undoubted advantage is their low cost. Before installation, wooden poles must be leveled in height and the underground part must be treated with waterproof mastic. The above-ground part of the support must be painted to extend its service life. The desired size of a wooden post is 100x100 mm.

• Metal. The most optimal type of supports for chain-link fencing. They are characterized by strength, reliability and durability and most often represent a hollow profile of round (diameter from 60 mm) or square section (recommended size 25x40 mm). The recommended metal thickness is at least 2 mm. The treatment of such pillars consists of priming and painting. Any fasteners can be easily welded onto them. You can also buy ready-made poles with hooks to secure the mesh.

• Concrete. You can make such supports yourself or purchase ready-made ones, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. The disadvantages of this type of support include the inconvenience of their installation due to the weight and complexity of attaching the mesh.

Step by step installation

Installation of chain-link fencing is carried out in several stages.

Territory marking

To mark the area for the future fence, you need to drive pegs into the corners of the fenced area and pull the construction thread. At this stage, the necessary materials are also calculated.

Then you should mark the places for installing the supports, which will stand at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other when installing the tension fence. When installing a fence with slabs or a sectional fence, the step between the posts can be 3 m.

Installation of pillars

The installation of supports should begin with the corner ones, which are recommended to be dug deeper, since they will bear the main load of the entire structure. To install a post (let’s take a metal one as a basis), you need to dig or drill a hole in the previously marked place.

The depth of the hole should be 15-20 cm greater than the freezing depth of the soil. On clay and loamy soils, it is recommended to increase the depth of the hole by another 10 cm. 10-15 cm of gravel should be poured onto the bottom of the hole to drain water, and a layer of sand on top.

Then a post, pre-treated with an anti-corrosion compound, is installed in the hole. If the design light fence, and especially temporary, supports can be installed without concreting.

In this case, after placing the pillar in the hole, the free space is filled with alternating layers of stone and soil, each of which is carefully compacted. If you are installing a sectional fence or tension fence with guides that will increase the load on the supports, it is better to concrete the posts.
To do this, prepare a cement mortar from sand and cement in a ratio of 1:2, to which, after mixing, two more parts of crushed stone are added. When all the loose parts have been added and mixed, water is poured.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution does not turn out to be too liquid. Ready solution poured into the hole around the pipe. The concrete must be shaken and compacted using a bayonet shovel and left until it has completely hardened, which usually takes up to seven days.

After installing the corner pillars, the rest are installed in the same way.

Important! It is necessary to control the vertical installation of the support using a plumb line. To make it easier to adjust the height of the pillars relative to each other, it is recommended to stretch the cord between the corner supports at a distance of ten centimeters from the top.

Tensioning the mesh and securing it to the supports

Different types of fastenings are used for different supports. Fastening the mesh to metal poles is carried out using hooks and welding, for wooden poles Staples and nails are suitable, and the chain-link is attached to concrete supports with clamps or wire.
Let us consider in detail the option of stretching the mesh over a fence with metal posts. It is necessary to start tensioning the chain-link from the corner post.

It will be more convenient to do this if you insert reinforcement into the mesh cells at a distance slightly greater than to the support, which will be pulled by two people - one closer to the top edge, and the second to the bottom.

A third person can attach the chain-link to the support hooks. After which the mesh can be welded to the post using one or more rods threaded through.

If the roll runs out between the supports, it is enough to simply connect two netting sheets by removing the outermost spiral-shaped element of one sheet, then overlap both parts of the mesh and reinsert the removed element.

Important! To reduce the load on the corner supports, it is better not to go around them with a mesh, but, having separated the cells, secure the chain-link using welding machine and stretch further with a separate fabric.

After tensioning the chain-link in the manner described above, in order to avoid sagging of the upper edge of the mesh, it is recommended to thread thick wire or reinforcement through the outer cells, which should also be welded to the posts. The same can be done with the bottom edge. This fence will be stronger.

Upon completion of the installation of the chain-link, it is necessary to bend and weld all the hooks on the supports, and also paint the posts to prevent metal corrosion. If you are installing a fence using a non-welding method, then you can paint the supports even before installing them.

Installing a fence with guides is not much different from a simple tension fence. The only difference is that in addition to the mesh, guides are also welded to the supports.

Important! It will not be possible to install a tension fence made of chain-link on a sloping area, since in an inclined position it is very poorly attached. The way out of this situation would be to terrace the area or install a sectional fence.

The procedure for marking the territory and installing supports for a sectional fence is the same as for a conventional tension fence. Metal plates with a cross section of 5 mm (width - 5 cm, length - 15-30 cm) are welded to the installed pillars at a distance of 20-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the support.

The sections are formed from rectangular frames welded from metal corners (30x40 mm or 40x50 mm), into which a part of the chain-link of the required size is welded using rods.

The sections are installed between the posts and welded to the plates. After installation work is completed, the fence is covered with paint.

22 times already
helped

Just as a theater begins with a coat rack, a well-groomed area begins with a fence. Presence of a fence - necessary condition completion of landscaping of the site. The type of fence, of course, depends on the functions assigned to it.

Types of fences: corrugated, brick, stone, concrete, picket fence, chain-link fence.

Its first and main function is protective, that is, preventing unauthorized entry of people and animals into the territory of the site. Decorative function, as a rule, refers to additional functions, but hardly secondary ones, which means it can lead to heated discussions regarding the materials and technologies used for its construction. The type of fence also depends on the amount of planned investment.

But no matter what fence you choose, you can’t do without pillars (supports).

The strength of the fence depends on the main material of the fence, the correct choice of supports, adherence to the technology for their installation, fastening of the elements (or sections) of the fence, and the optimal distance between the posts must be maintained.

Let's look at the most popular ones and determine what distance from the support post to the post will be the most correct from the point of view of the reliability of the fence.

What can it be built from? The most popular manufacturing materials: board ( wooden picket fence), corrugated sheets, concrete sections, stone or brickwork, chain-link mesh (tensile or in the form of sections).

Choosing the material for the fence

A wooden fence is short-lived, its service life is approximately 8-10 years. But such a fence always looks aesthetically pleasing and blends harmoniously with almost any stylistic design plot. The ease of installation is also impressive.

A fence made of corrugated sheets is durable, copes well with its barrier function and is durable, given its performance characteristics. The variety of colors and profile shapes of corrugated sheets allows you to show your design imagination at the stage of fencing the site. At correct installation such a fence looks not only neat, but also presentable.

Fence from chain-link mesh It belongs to the transparent type of fences, it looks light and neat. It is strong, durable and easy to install. The chain-link mesh, if desired, can be painted, which can add attractiveness and harmony to the fence general design plot. Dyed chain-link is less susceptible to adverse effects atmospheric precipitation. Such a fence can be made even more reliable by making sections from a metal corner, inside which a chain-link mesh is fixed.

A reliable, beautiful and even slightly monumental version of a fence is a fence made of brick or stone masonry. This fence is installed on the foundation. But it is not at all necessary that the spans between the pillars be brick or stone. Between the brick pillars, which are very strong and durable, a transparent or translucent type fence can be installed on a concrete base.

These are the most common fencing options for sites. Based on the above materials, we can offer such types of fence supports as a metal pipe, a concrete pillar, or brickwork. It is not recommended to use wood as a support due to its relatively short term services.

When starting any work, you must first stock up on everything necessary tool and materials. It is necessary to take into account that tools and materials must be selected depending on the type of fencing and supports being installed, and only some of them are universal and will be required in any case. We will need a trowel, a special drill attachment for preparing the mortar, high-quality dry mixes and cement, a bayonet shovel, logs, log holders (x-brackets), a drill (if, of course, it is possible to use a drilling and piling rig - the drill can be excluded), rope, meter tape. Depending on the type of fence being built, you may need pliers, a hammer and nails, self-tapping screws, rivets, and a screwdriver. To protect the metal pipe-post from atmospheric precipitation, we will prepare plastic or metal covers: we will close the end holes with them. If there are supposed to be supports, then you will need brushes and paint.

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Wooden picket fence

When erecting a wooden fence for supports, as a rule, a metal profile pipe is used; transverse crossbars - veins (joists) - will be attached to it. The distance between the posts corresponds to the length of the logs to which the picket fence strips will be attached. The distance between the slats should correspond to the width of the picket fence. If it is necessary to make the fence denser, the distance between the picket fence is reduced to half its width. The presence of such gaps between the slats reduces the windage of the fence. To ensure the strength of a wooden picket fence, it is enough that the distance from post to post does not exceed 3 m. But you should not skimp on the supports: if the supports are installed closer than 2.5 m from one another, it becomes more costly and labor-intensive.

To begin the work, it is necessary to make markings, outlining the location of each corner post. Using a stretched rope between the installation marks for corner posts, we mark lines for placing supports along the perimeter of the site. This marking technique is used in the construction of all types of fences.

If the base of a metal pillar is to be concreted, then it is necessary to prepare a hole 1-1.5 m deep. You can use a less expensive method of installing supports - by driving in metal supports. In this case, this deep hole not needed - 40 cm is enough, given that the total depth should be approximately 100-120 cm, and the hole around the pipe should be sealed with stones or broken bricks. The openings of the metal pipe must be covered with covers to prevent the penetration of precipitation. This effective method protecting the pole from corrosion.

After strengthening the pillars, cross members are attached to them parallel to the ground (x-brackets can be used for this). The crossbars serve as the basis for the picket fence, which is nailed perpendicular to the joists. Don't forget that wooden fence it is necessary to cover it with an antiseptic, which will extend its service life.

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Chain-link fence (tension and sectional)

Chain-link mesh has long and firmly taken a position among the favorite materials for fencing areas: such a fence is reliable and does not require special skills for installation. Metal posts are most often used as supports for chain-link fences, and less often wooden ones. The use of wooden posts simplifies (it is possible to attach the mesh to the support posts using nails), but significantly reduces the service life.

Upon completion of marking the perimeter of the site for the location of the pillars, the pillars are installed in the holes prepared with a drill and concreted using a sand-gravel mixture and cement. The cement mortar must be thoroughly compacted. Since the windage of such a fence is minimal, it is enough to immerse the pillars to a depth of 1 m, and the resulting concrete pig will act as an anchor.

Having secured the edge of the chain-link mesh to the support, in order to avoid its sagging, you need to stretch a metal cable, wire or reinforcement along the upper and lower contours of the chain-link mesh. The broach is also attached to the support posts, between which the mesh is stretched.

To prevent the mesh from sagging, you can also make sections from a metal corner to which the mesh is attached, and then install the sections to the supports. This type of fence is more durable, but its installation is also more labor-intensive. Moreover, to perform such work it is necessary to master metal welding techniques.

In order for the fence to be strong, the distance between the support posts should not exceed 3 m.

Metal grid - convenient option demarcation of the area. This is due to the availability of the material, ease of installation, and minimal labor costs. High-quality installation of a chain-link fence has certain nuances on which the durability of the fence depends.

Chainlink fence

Choosing the right grid

The mesh differs in cell sizes, as well as in the material used. The cheapest is considered to be a mesh with large cells, woven from black wire. It is not suitable for a permanent fence, but is suitable for temporary fencing. Black wire corrodes easily, so it will only last three to four years. Sometimes its service life is extended by painting or treating it with bitumen.

Galvanized wire makes the mesh strong, durable, and more attractive in appearance. This kind of chain-link is more expensive, but it can be used to build permanent fences - light but durable. Nowadays, manufacturers additionally coat galvanization with protective polymers, which give the mesh a different color.

In order to choose correctly and not overpay, you must first decide on the purpose of the mesh. If you need to temporarily fence or demarcate an area, you should not take an expensive chain link; the most ordinary one will do. If you plan to install a permanent fence, be sure to choose high-quality galvanized mesh. To make the fence decorative, you can purchase colored mesh.

Galvanized mesh

Fine mesh netting is usually purchased for fencing poultry to prevent chickens from crawling into other areas, such as the garden. If the fence is needed for demarcation, a chain-link with large or medium cells is suitable. Everyone chooses the height of the fence separately; The mesh width is from a meter to 1.8 m, the standard length is 10 m.

How to choose support pillars

High-quality installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands implies not only technology, but also a competent choice of load-bearing supports.

They are:

• metal;
• wooden;
• reinforced concrete;
• asbestos.

The light weight of the fence allows it to be used metallic profile cross section 60x40 mm, thin pipes and channels. Such supports have a relatively high price, but they look neat and last a long time. Iron fence elements need to be treated with anti-corrosion mixtures and also require painting periodically. If hollow posts are used, they must be covered with canopies or special covers on top.

Columns from profile

Wooden posts are not as strong, but are much cheaper. The processing of wooden stakes for mesh is simple: they are cleared of bark, thoroughly sanded, the lower part is coated with bitumen, the rest is painted or primed with an antifungal compound. This allows you to significantly extend the service life of the columns.

Reinforced concrete pillars, like asbestos pipes, the most convenient supports for such a fence. They are cheaper than metal ones, more durable, do not require processing, and they also do not need to be repainted annually. In any weather conditions, concrete supports are consistently reliable.

Fence installation

The installation process includes the following steps:

• perimeter markings;
• digging holes;
• installation of poles;
• mesh fastening.

Despite the simplicity of execution, the installation of a chain-link fence still has certain subtleties on which the reliability of the structure depends.

Making the markings

It is necessary to determine the location of the corner posts by marking them with pegs. Then connect them with a stretched cord, fishing line or rope. If the fence has turns, measure the required distance from the post, drive in a peg and pull the cord again. This is how the perimeter of the future fence is marked. Next, you need to outline the locations of the remaining supports. To avoid unnecessary sagging, the posts are placed every 2 m, maximum 2.5 m. This means that 2 meters are measured from the corner and a mark is placed, and so on until the end of the fence.

Fence marking

How to dig holes correctly

For such a light fence, it is not necessary to dig the posts very deeply. Sometimes they are simply driven in if the soil is dense enough and there is no risk of flooding of the area. This method is justifiable to use temporarily, but for a permanent fence it is better to dig the posts and concrete them. The easiest way to dig holes is with a garden drill; it is convenient, quick and saves energy. You won't be able to dig a narrow hole with a shovel; then you'll have to fill it up a lot and compact it. The depth of the holes is approximately 1 m, on loose soil - 1.2 m. Often the installation of mesh fences is carried out this way: holes are dug only to half the required depth, after which the supports are driven in.

Installation of pillars

To prevent the supports from sagging or warping, a sand cushion is placed at the bottom, on which a little gravel is poured. You can also sprinkle crushed stone or broken bricks.

• level;
• concrete solution;
• spacers

The pillars are lowered and leveled, in addition, they are leveled in height. Crushed stone and earth are poured into the hole and compacted with a crowbar. If the column is hollow inside, it is filled with solution; then they are leveled again, strengthened with spacers and concrete is poured.

Important! Posts for wickets and gates must be concreted especially securely, since they are subject to the greatest impact. In addition, such supports should be thicker than others, and they need to be buried deeper.

Mesh fence diagram

Chain link fastening

The better the preparation, the easier it is to install chain-link fences. The first roll of mesh is placed vertically near the corner post. Using a knitting wire, the edge of the fabric is attached to the support in three places along the height. Unwinding the mesh, the roll is moved to another post and pulled tightly. Again they fix it with wire and move on. Another way: the roll is unwound completely along the line of the pillars, then with a sharp movement the mesh is lifted vertically and one end is screwed to the support. From the other end of the roll, a section of profile is threaded vertically into the cells - this will help to properly tension the mesh and not damage the shape of the cells.

Attaching the mesh to the stand

The second option requires the presence of an assistant, otherwise the chain-link will get tangled. It is very important to tension the canvas evenly, or some spans will be level, others will sag. You should not attach the mesh close to the ground - you need to leave a distance of 15 cm from the ground. When the canvas is completely secured, a thick wire must be threaded along the top of the mesh to prevent possible sagging. If you need to connect two pieces of mesh, unscrew the wire spiral and tie both pieces together with it.

Using chain link mesh for fencing

27.05.2012 08:11

The most popular country fence today is a chain-link fence. Mass recognition and interest of summer residents
deserved it for a reason. The most important advantage is the price of a chain-link fence. The cost of installing a chain-link fence, in comparison with other types of fences, it differs significantly, of course, to a lesser extent. The low price of a chain-link fence is due to two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of chain-link mesh, or to be more precise, one roll today ranges from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a polymer-coated chain-link mesh. The color of the polymer coating of the chain-link mesh has virtually no effect on the price of the product. As for installing a chain-link fence, we can say - “a chain-link fence can be easily installed with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools.” ASK Egida company will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.

Instructions for installing a chain-link fence

Before installing the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation location. entrance gate with a gate. Corner posts It is recommended to concrete them, since the main force from the tension of the mesh will be distributed on them. Posts for installing chain-link mesh are mainly used with a round section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common height of a chain-link mesh roll is from 1200 to 1500 mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we stretch the twine between them along the top and bottom. The bottom twine is necessary for straight-line marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The top twine will later serve to mark the height of the fence and horizontal alignment. The next stage of installing a chain-link fence is to determine the equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:

• Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent pillars should be 2.5 meters.
• We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We received the required number of posts - 14.5 pieces. Next, we divide the distance between the corner pillars (36 m) by the number of pillars obtained (14.5 pieces) 36:14.5 = 2.48 meters. We have determined the distance through which the pillars need to be installed from each other. It was 2.48 meters. You don’t have to catch millimeters, since visually on such a flight they will not create problems with asymmetry.

Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the chain-link fence. There are three of them. The first is the simplest: driving a post into the ground. Performed using a unified device. If you hammer with a regular sledgehammer, there is every chance of denting the pipe heads and ruining the presentation of the future fence. Be careful. The next type of installation of a fence pipe is layer-by-layer crushed stone with a tamper. Refers to the cheapest and at the same time in a reliable way installations. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing of the pole out of the ground. The last type of installation includes the two previous methods, only together with them there is a parallel process of concreting, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of soil freezing.

Well, the pillars are installed, and it’s time to install the chain-link mesh. Installation of chain-link mesh begins with unrolling the mesh rolls along the installed posts. Next, you need to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that you get a single mesh equal to the length of one side of the section. Tying the ends of adjacent rolls is performed as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outer wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of the adjacent rolls are aligned with each other, and the unscrewed wire is screwed back in, connecting both ends together. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.

After weaving the chain-link mesh, we proceed to the final stage installing a fence, hanging the mesh on mounted poles. Here you will need an assistant; stretching the chain-link mesh alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are pre-prepared mustaches on the pillars, then the chain-link mesh is put on them. If there are no such whiskers, then the chain-link mesh is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Next, one person goes ahead and lifts the net, and the second tightens it and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is hung out. To avoid wire sagging in the future, this especially happens in winter period When the mesh is covered with wet snow and it sags under its weight, it is necessary to pass steel wire along the top of the mesh fence. It is passed between the upper mesh cells along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sagging of the fence. Article prepared by the company ASK Egida, who will be happy to help you with installation of any types of fences at a reasonable price If you can’t install a fence yourself.

Comments

2014-05-12 08:40:02Sergey Ivanovich

Well written. It is especially useful about weaving two rolls together. When I made my fence at the dacha about ten years ago, I connected the mesh together with wire and didn’t know that it was woven so simply and there were no seams left. I found out a year later when an acquaintance suggested who they came to the dacha with to drink firewater. He laughed for a long time at my fence.

Reply / Quote

To: Sergey Ivanovich, [email protected], #791006

2014-05-12 08:40:46ASK Egida

))) Thank you

Reply / Quote

To: ASK Egida, [email protected], #791206

A simple and inexpensive way to mark property boundaries is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example, a fence made of corrugated board. But they are more expensive and labor-intensive to install, and are more suitable for permanent external fencing of a country house.

What if you need to fence off a building plot, a summer cottage, separate a business area from a residential area, or make an enclosure for animals?

Is it wise to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, attracting specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The manufacturing technology, calculation and installation are described below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

Advantages of a chain-link fence

• saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is almost the lowest of all possible fence options. Only a fence made of branches can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

• light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or pouring a foundation;

• strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, fire, mechanical damage;

• light transmittance. A chain-link fence does not create barriers to entry sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

• low maintenance and no need for repairs;

• ability to withstand significant load. For example, it is easier to break a wooden fence than to break a metal network;

• availability. You can buy chain-link mesh at any hardware store or on the market;

• a large assortment allows you to choose the one that is best suited for your specific needs;

• high installation speed. Two people can install a chain-link fence in one day.

Of course, a mesh fence is not without its drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, “transparency” of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings can be easily eliminated if you know how to choose a chain-link mesh correctly.

Types of chain-link mesh for fences - which one is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Material of manufacture:

• low carbon steel (the mesh is more ductile);
• stainless steel (hard mesh).

2. External coating:

• non-galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. This mesh is prone to rust and needs painting;

• galvanized chain-link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, cell size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has long term services;

• plasticized (metal with polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate confirming the quality of the coating. Simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet radiation and frost, it will soon become unusable.

3. Chain-link mesh dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will fit through the mesh. This is relevant when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But such a mesh will be heavier, more metal will be needed to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For the fence the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it’s time to move on to the main work, namely, creating a sketch of the fence, calculating materials and installing the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Drawing of a chain-link fence

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

• location of installation of the fence, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

• relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help you decide what is more appropriate: leveling the soil or making a cascading fence;

• fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the mesh, there is no need to take the length into account;

• Place of installation of support pillars and supports.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

Types of chain-link fences

When designing a fence, a decision is also made regarding what chain link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

• tension fence– easy to install. The price of a tension fence made of chain-link mesh is minimal. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the mesh. The design flaw is that the mesh will begin to sag over time;

Chain-link tension fence

• tension fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support that supports the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

Tension fence made of chain-link mesh with broach

• sectional fence. Requires more costs to purchase a corner for the frame and longer time to manufacture sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made from chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Sectional chain-link fence

Note. If the terrain on the site is uneven, it is better to give preference to a fence made of sections; this will allow you to install a chain-link fence, taking into account height differences, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main components, incl. arrangement of corners.

Drawing of a chain-link fence

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will only take one or two days if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the work in advance.

Construction Materials:

1. Rabitz. The requirements for it are described above.
2. Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. For fence will do galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm. (from 130 rub/m.p.).

   As a more durable alternative to wire, reinforcement is used, which is welded between the posts or a thin pipe. These materials prevent theft of the mesh.

3. Support posts for a chain-link fence.
4. Profile corners (for making a sectional fence). Using corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles/m.p.
5. Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
6. Cement and sand (for concreting support pillars).
7. Protective compounds for wood or metal processing.

The tools you will need are: tape measure, rope for marking the area, shovel or drill.

What kind of posts can be used for a chain-link fence?

Metal posts for a chain-link fence

Metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square cross-section is used. The versatility of the metal pole is beyond doubt. The iron support does not require any treatment during installation (only priming and painting); any type of fasteners can be welded to the metal.
Chain-link fences are suitable for a fence made of mesh round post with a diameter of 60 mm. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles/m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles/m.p.).

Wooden posts for a chain-link fence

Wooden pillars

Despite the fact that this is the simplest solution, wooden supports have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather influences and the activity of microorganisms. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper treatment and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain link fence posts are used for temporary structures. A post with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles/m.p.) is suitable for a fence.

Brick posts for a chain-link fence

Brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive a solution for a mesh fence, therefore, in practice they are not used. In addition, a foundation must be poured under them.

Material prepared for the website www.moydomik.net

Concrete posts for a chain-link fence

Concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can do it yourself or buy ready-made ones (approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles/piece). This is relevant if the store is in close proximity to the installation site, otherwise transport costs will significantly increase the cost of a chain-link fence. At the same time, attaching the mesh to a concrete pillar has its own specifics.

Asbestos-cement pipes for chain-link fence

Asbestos cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (pipe price 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to rotting. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient and requires the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow; they simply need to be closed with plugs, otherwise frozen water will simply rupture the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of a chain-link fence

1. Number of m.p. (linear meters) mesh depends on the size of the area. Usually, chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of galvanized chain-link mesh 50x50x2 mm is from 54 rubles/sq.m. The price of non-galvanized chain-link mesh 50x50x2 mm is from 48 rubles/sq.m. The price of polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm is from 221 rubles/sq.m.
2. The length of the tensioning wire is equal to two fence lengths (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are sufficient.
3. The number of pillars depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that maximum distance between adjacent pillars is 2,500 mm. This rule remains the same for a fence with tension and for a sectional fence.
4. The length of the profile angle is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
5. Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

1. Preparing the soil surface

The fence installation site does not require serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. In this case, plants that will grow near the mesh (and not near the support post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the mesh.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. Filling concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a mesh using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

Chain-link fence on foundation Foundation for a chain-link fence

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Preparatory treatment of fence posts

• Processing of wooden poles– the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood from rotting) at the level of its depth in the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

• Processing of metal poles– iron supports must be cleaned of rust and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (preventing the development of rust). The products of the company Conferum, which supplies several types of primers, are in demand.

How deep should I bury chain-link fence posts?

Despite the minimal windage of the mesh, the chain-link is heavy; with a length of 2.5 meters (between supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter; under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum pit depth is 50-80 cm.

Methods for installing fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

• Firstly, by hammering or screwing in the supports to the required depth. This method has a significant drawback, which is that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when driving and it is easy to deform the top of the driven pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

• Secondly, by drilling/digging a hole for it and then pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is selected taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more labor-intensive; here the craftsmen also distinguish two installation options:

• First, install the support 20 cm below the soil freezing level. Then the heaving of the soil will not push out the pipe.

• Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the surface of the soil, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes over the heaving of the soil and levels it out. In this case, the pole will definitely not lead.

Advice. Manual drilling, especially with a large number of holes for posts, is a very labor-intensive task. It is better to find/rent/buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (column) are hammered with a sledgehammer.

Drill for digging holes for fence posts Drilling holes under fence posts with a motor drill

How to install chain-link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from installing other types of fencing. Installation procedure:

• First, the corner posts are installed. When tensioned, they are subject to the greatest load, so it is advisable to strengthen them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the spacers is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

• pillars are installed where the fence breaks (at the corners of the fence, at corners);

• a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, the supports for the gates and wickets are mounted;

• settling in entry group(gate, wicket). Please note that the entrance group of a chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

• after this, row pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and causing rust.

4. Guide wire for tensioning the chain-link mesh

The purpose of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by the following methods of fastening the chain-link:

• tensioner;
• lanyard;
• hook with long thread;
• staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

Tensioning the chain-link with a lanyard Tensioner for chain link

The order of tensioning the chain-link: one end of the mesh is tied to the corner support pillar, and the second one is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise running a guide wire through the mesh cells. But this option is only suitable for installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length and then installing the mesh on the supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Attaching the chain-link mesh to the posts

Methods of attaching mesh netting

• install on the stretched tension wire;
• secure to the fittings;
• install into a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a tension fence

A roll of chain-link mesh is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal poles). In this case, the curved edges of the mesh should be oriented upward. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground level by 100-150 mm.

The mesh is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is tensioned and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is finished, the mesh is pulled over the lower jumper. It is important to untangle all the tangled spirals of the mesh.

After this, a second roll is screwed to the first roll (two rolls are connected to each other), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be done in a canopy. If you do it yourself, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not fully stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes binding is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

Connecting two rolls of mesh into one

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed to the middle lintel.

When stretching the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid distortion of the mesh fabric.

How to stretch the mesh between support posts when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a chain-link fence

• You need to make a frame from a metal corner. Frame parameters: length equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

• the corner is opened into blanks using a grinder;

• the blanks are welded into a frame;

• Next we work with the grid. The required size is unwound from a roll of chain-link and separated by twisting the wire;

• A reinforcing rod is inserted into all four sides of the mesh. The rod allows you to pull the mesh to the edge of the corner;

• the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is attached to the corner.

There is another option that involves welding inside corners of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and the mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to form a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the mesh slipping.

Stretching a chain-link mesh onto a fence section Manufacturing fence sections from chain-link mesh

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To attach a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. Difficulties arise from the fact that:

• it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

• it is difficult to install a piece of mesh stretched, without sagging;

• the need to perform welding work;

• difficulty in installing fence sections.

Decorative decoration of a chain-link fence

A chain link fence is no different. bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it can be decorated, the result will be a nice and strong fencing for the site.

Ideas for decorating a mesh fence

• openwork weaving. It is made with thin wire on a mesh with large cells. A simple pattern can be made with your own hands;

Decorative weaving on chain-link mesh Openwork weaving on a chain-link mesh

• decorative landscaping. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

Gardening with weaving or climbing plants chain link fence Landscaping with hanging pots on a chain-link fence

• in order not to wait for the greenery to grow and braid the fence, the mesh can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

Decorating a chain-link fence with fabric and wire flowers Decorating a chain-link fence with decorative flowers

• creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and funny decorations for a chain-link fence.

Original design of a chain-link fence Original decoration of a chain-link fence

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

Cost of a chain link fence

The total costs of constructing a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of materials was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work and installation is per 1 m.p. is given in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fencing that you can make with your own hands.

Tags: Mesh Chainlink Fence Fences

GOST standardizes many things, including how areas can or cannot be demarcated. For example, regulations require that neighboring areas be demarcated with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or a wattle fence. The wattle fence, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so all that remains is a mesh fence. In general, it’s correct to say “chain-link fence,” but it’s more common for the ear to incline the name.

Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence

Whatever this fence is called, it has a significant amount positive aspects. The first and most important advantage is low cost. This applies to both the filling itself - the mesh, and the rest of the structure. To tension the mesh, no foundation is required. It is enough to drill holes about a meter, insert a post and, filling it with crushed stone, compact it well. That's it, nothing concrete works. On most soils, this method of installation for this filling works “five”.

Designs and installation methods

The fact is that a chain-link fence is lightweight. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. No matter how strong the winds blow, the pressure transmitted by the mesh to the poles remains insignificant. Due to their low weight, this technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, backfilled with sand or crushed stone, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with a high level of groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.

Without guides

Here's how it works. It's about about the simplest design: just pillars with a mesh stretched between them. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that drain water normally? All water located near the column goes down through the sand or crushed stone to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves naturally - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or crushed stone around the post freezes, the moisture contained is not enough to have any significant impact on the post.

The simplest design of a chain-link fence

On clays and loams you can use the same principle, but you must fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install the post. What happens in this case? Water still accumulates below, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time it freezes, the crushed stone will still be wet, or even in water.

What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the crushed stone. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the crushed stone becomes mobile and compensates for most of the pressure created by the soil. As a result, if movements of the pillars occur, they are very small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the structure is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the pillars will lower into place. But such a scenario only occurs if they are positioned perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the pillars may tilt and everything will have to be corrected.

With guides (slugs)

Sometimes, to make the fence more solid and hold its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They may be made of pipes, or they may be made of timber. Wood, as a plastic material, will withstand ground movements remarkably well, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.

Chain-link fence with metal guides

The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and during heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent such a situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your region. Everything else remains the same: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is crushed stone at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted and filled with well-compacted crushed stone.

Sectional

There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are made from the corner, onto which the mesh is then stretched. The finished sections are welded to the exposed posts.

Sectional chain-link fence

As is clear from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loams) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also advisable to do this without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the likelihood that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.

Types of chain-link mesh for fences

Even such a seemingly simple material as chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is significant both in price and in service life.

Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer

In addition to different materials, the chain-link has different mesh sizes. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the mesh, but the less load-bearing capacity it has. If you are installing a chain-link fence at the boundary with a neighbor, take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.

What to look for when choosing a mesh

Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should have curved “tails”. Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the bent part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to stretch.

The edges should be smooth and curved

Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.

If the mesh is polymer-coated, check the warranty period provided by the manufacturer. With the cheapest ones, not only does the wire often bend, but they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, after a couple of seasons becomes brittle and begins to crumble. Normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, there is no need to chase cheapness.

Read how to make a fence from corrugated sheets here.

Which pillars to use

There are several options:

The most convenient option of all those mentioned is a profile pipe, and better - rectangular section. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, install these. The optimal cross-section for a pillar is 25*40 mm or so. There is no need to take a larger cross-section - the fence is light.

The order of installation of pillars

First, the pillars are placed in the corners of the site. If you want to fence only one side, place one post at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, and the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is leveled along the upper cord, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by applying a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.

Installing posts under a mesh fence

The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is no point, the mesh will sag. When installing a grid without a guide wire, it makes sense to place posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to tighten the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slugs (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.

Example of corner post reinforcement

If the mesh is pulled between the pillars, the outer ones will bear a considerable load. To prevent them from being led away, they put up jibs. They are placed, dug in, and welded to the installed pole.

Installation of chain-link mesh

It’s only at first that it seems easy to install a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the mesh on a pole, how to tension it, everything is not so obvious and simple... First, about the general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.

Methods for attaching the mesh to the pole

The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is at the dacha, during the absence of the owners, the mesh can be easily removed and taken away.

You can at least secure it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel rod with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the post, grabbing each 40-50 cm (pictured on the left).

Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is placed on them and they are bent.

Weld the rods, stretch the mesh, bend

If you are still paranoid about the mesh being removed, you can drill two holes in the post through holes, insert a rod bent in the shape of a horseshoe - U, grasping the mesh with its “back”. On the side where the ends come out, twist and rivet them, or weld them.

Tensioner

There is another problem: how to tension the mesh. If the design is simple - without slugs (transverse guides that are fixed between the pillars), you can simply stretch the mesh from one pillar to another. Just note that it must be attached sequentially to each post. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.

How to tension a chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. You need to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.

With wire

This type of fence is good because it can be installed quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely become wrinkled. It is unlikely that it will be possible to straighten it. To prevent the top from sagging and “creasing,” a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.

To prevent the mesh from sagging, a wire is pulled on top

If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end and throw it over the outermost post. They unwind the wire, trying to tighten it; after two or three posts, make another loop, wrapping the wire around the post. So until the end of the flight. If you use muscle force, you won't be able to pull it enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod and use it to twist it, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. This way you pull up all the “spans”. Afterwards, you can begin to “pull” the mesh, tying it to a stretched wire.

If you weld “ears” at the top of the post - a metal strip with holes, the wire can be attached to them. It is easier to stretch a piece of 2-3 meters, but the work is slower.

Another way to attach wire

You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having secured the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into a device such as in the photo. It is secured in a clamp, and then using a key, the excess is screwed onto the drum.

Special wire tensioners

You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with ties-clamps (at a rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole and secured with a clamp. A lanyard is placed on the other. Its middle part has a thread, thanks to which the cable can be tensioned.

Lanyard with cable - another option

Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells it’s normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.

With welded rod

A steel rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or just below. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the post.

Welded rod threaded through the cells

Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. This photo clearly shows that it has already begun to bloom. This is precisely the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel and even without wire or rod it holds the edge well.

With slugs (guides)

In even more rigid structures, after installing the pillars, slugs are welded to them. Are these cross pipes or wooden planks, attached between the pillars. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.

Chain-link fence with slugs

As you can see in the photo, in this case the mesh can also be secured using wire. It is clear that all the methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another method - with plates screwed on with bolts, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.

Another way to attach chain-link to metal posts

Read how to make a wooden wicker fence here.

Decoration of a chain-link fence

No matter how happy the fence may make you at first, after some time you will want to either decorate it or make it less transparent in order to hide from prying eyes.

The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not object, you can plant bindweed or any other annual or perennial plants.

Most natural way- plant plants

If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do “embroidery”. The cells have same sizes, so you can embroider as if on canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.

A decorated chain-link fence looks incredibly beautiful

The good thing about colored twine is that you can “embroider” colored pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.

Embroidery on mesh with colored twine

Like this)))

Not very aesthetic, but quite effective way- pull the camouflage or shading mesh. The good thing about these methods is that they require a minimum of effort: just pull it on and grab it in a couple of places.

Camouflage mesh on the fence significantly reduces visibility of the area

The shading mesh is almost opaque and the wind load will hardly change

The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is its high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.

Weave reeds or thin twigs into the mesh

Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is roll it out and secure it. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.

Reed mat

Another way is to use artificial pine needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be used on a fence.

Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial pine needles

Not long ago, another way to decorate and, at the same time, reduce the visibility of a chain-link fence appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fences) or fragments (for sectional fences). Attached using eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see the approximate effect in the photo below.

There are fences various types- from modern fences with horizontal metal pickets, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, to brick or chain-link fences. The choice always remains with the owner of the summer cottage, but when installing or constructing it yourself, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depends on this.

The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. The greatest demand is for enclosing structures made of the following materials:

• brick (stone);
• corrugated sheeting;
• tree;
• Rabitz.

Brickwork

When building a fence made of brick or stone, the posts are usually made of similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly ensured within 2.5-3.5 m. They are found with spans of up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase the strength characteristics of the structure, it is recommended to additionally reinforce it - additionally lay steel wire with a cross-section of 4-6 mm in the seams between the rows of bricks (over their entire length). It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.

There are many design options for brick fences - with forged sections, inserts made of corrugated board, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way affect the span length between the load-bearing supports - it should be no more than 3.5 m.

Installation of posts for mounting a fence made of corrugated boards, boards and chain-link mesh

It is advisable to use a profile pipe with a cross section of 40×20 or 40×40 mm as posts for fences made of these materials. It is allowed to use a round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or an angle No. 63.

To install the supports, it is necessary to prepare a hole 500-600 mm deep and 300-400 mm wide, place the prepared post in it and drive it a little into the ground. Compact to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and fill the base with concrete level with the ground surface. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.

When creating a fence between the posts, you need to maintain a distance of 2-3 m. This optimal values, which, if observed, ensures high structural strength and minimal labor intensity of the process. Increasing the pitch leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased propensity to deformation, and as a result - unjustified financial costs for restoration.

One of the obvious advantages of fences made from a material such as corrugated sheets is that it is quite possible to build these fences with your own hands, without resorting to the help of expensive construction crews. The work is quite simple; after studying the instructions, in fact, any person who is familiar with the tool first-hand will probably be able to cope. But there are also relevant nuances. For example, one of the key problems is the correct installation of poles. How to cope with this task effectively? What should be the distance between corrugated fence posts, and how to calculate it correctly? After all, this is the main parameter that is designed to ensure the strength and durability of the structure. After all, even the most reliable material won't withstand the pressure weather conditions or accidental mechanical shock if it is not securely supported by posts. And they, in turn, will not bear the load when they are not installed according to the rules.

The basis of every “self-respecting” fence is posts with logs. And their installation is the most labor-intensive component of the entire work. Of course, the maximum possible distance between corrugated fence posts significantly reduces the overall cost and saves money. But too long runs make it difficult to install the corrugated sheet and “undermine” the strength of the structure. The optimal golden mean would be about two and a half, three meters. This figure may vary in one direction or another, but, as a rule, no more than 3. Also, the gaps between the supports directly depend on the materials from which the pillars themselves are made, and on the installation method (we’ll talk about these two nuances below). In addition, the more firmly the supports are rooted, the longer the distance between them can be. And when they build a fence with a height of more than 2.5 meters, then vice versa - shorter. Greatest strength have structures with brick pillars. Metal pipes, profiles, wood and asbestos products are used as elements. So for those under construction the choice is quite large. It is important to follow some marking rules with installation, and an important safety function for your home or site is at your service.

An example of marking posts for a fence made of corrugated sheets

The pillars are the basis of the fence

In general, the structure on which the corrugated sheet is attached consists of:

• The main supporting elements that are installed at the corners of the site and on the sides of the gate. Typically, these pillars are slightly thicker, as they experience increased loads.
• Intermediate support elements. Often, for economic reasons, they are chosen thinner because they are less loaded.
• Raskosov. These elements are used to level the supports in cases where soil parameters do not allow concreting to be carried out with proper efficiency.
• Horizontal joists. They are constructed from beams, or from small section profiles (30x30, 20x40 millimeters).

Fence design drawing

All elements must be rigidly connected to each other. For this purpose, both welding and mechanical connectors are used. How to choose the right supports, since the modern market provides products of various types?

A Question of Choice

Which supports are commonly used for corrugated sheet fences? The following types are widely used:

• metal;
• wooden;
• profile;
• reinforced concrete;
• with brick pillars;
• asbestos-cement.

Their length can be determined depending on the height of the canvas (as a rule, it is selected individually). The pillars are usually slightly longer than the selected height (per meter). The upper sections, if the supports are hollow inside, are welded, sealed, or a plug is installed - depending on what material they are made of. This prevents liquid from getting inside the racks.

Metal

This is the most common material for fence posts. Such supports are made from sections of round or profiled pipe with fairly thick walls (thickness of at least 2 millimeters, for tall structures - up to 3). The second option is more technically robust and looks much more presentable and modern. The length of the parts depends directly on the height of the fence. Depth into the soil - from a meter (on dense soils) to one and a half. The metal must be subjected to additional anti-corrosion treatment. And the upper segment of the support must be updated annually, covering it with protective compounds (for example, paint or varnish). The profile cut should be welded or an appropriate plug should be installed to prevent water from entering the product.

Profile posts for a fence made of corrugated sheets

Tree

This pole material is used in temporary structures. Wooden supports, of course, are inferior in their characteristics to those of metal or brick. But when it comes to saving, they are applicable quite often. Usually these are coniferous species: pine and spruce. The material itself is chosen with a sufficient cross-section and without large knots and cracks, even. Don’t forget to treat the supports with an antiseptic agent against pests. And lubricate the lower part with mastic to prevent moisture penetration.

Example of a base for a brick pillar

Concrete and brick

Factory-produced concrete structures are an alternative to the above supports. The product is made of sand, cement, construction crushed stone. The post itself is divided into 2 sections: the lower one is embedded in the soil (0.8 - 1.2 meters), and the upper one is equipped with grooves for fastening the logs. Such products have reduced deformation from the effects of windage. As an option: with brick pillars, as well as in combination - brickwork and round pipe. This method is excellent in terms of strength and aesthetic appearance, but erecting a structure “on brick” will require more significant costs and additional work.

Asbestos cement pipes

Supports from of this material still hold a fairly strong position. After all, asbestos-cement pipes coated with a special compound can last for decades, requiring almost no attention - painting, processing! Low cost, resistance to humidity and pests - excellent a budget option. But each material has its drawbacks. Asbestos-cement products also have them. They are highly fragile, which makes them difficult to transport. The pipe is heavy and bulky, which makes installation difficult. You also need to prevent liquids from getting inside the product: when they freeze, they will expand and the column may split.

Asbestos cement pipes for supports

Pipe plug option from above

Work order

Let's say you have decided on the choice of supports, and now you need to proceed directly to installation. The simplest option is concreting (unless it is a short-term construction). Here is an approximate work plan step by step.

1. We start by marking the area to be fenced. We mark the perimeter of the area with a measuring cord (we also use wooden or metal pegs).
2. Next, let's start applying markings, actually under the supports. The optimal distance for fences made of corrugated board, according to many craftsmen, is 2.5-3 meters - from pillar to post. This is directly related to the nuance that the profile used for installing horizontal joists on the structure is six meters long. Thus, when marking spans of the specified length, it is easier to join the logs.

Drilling holes for supports

1. Using a drill (see photo), we make holes in the soil at the marked points. The diameter of the holes for the pillars should be at least one hundred millimeters larger than that of the supports.
2. We fill the drilled holes with crushed stone. Compact with a tamper. We place each element separately, aligning it with a plumb line/level.
3. Fill the gravel on top (up to half) and fill in the cement solution.
4. We fix the pillars with boards or braces. When the solution has completely hardened, remove the fixation. Only then can the logs be attached.

Please note that installing corrugated fence posts according to the rules is an indispensable condition; it determines the durability of the structure and its strength. Experts advise not to rush at this stage, but to do everything thoughtfully - as described in the instructions. It’s better to spend a little extra time than to rebuild a “collapsed” fence later!

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