Sharpening a drill for metal can be done without contacting a specialist. It is well known that drilling tools become dull during use. The more it is used, the sooner it deforms.
How to determine if a tool is dull
Many people do not pay attention to the signs that indicate the need drill sharpening but with your own hands. They use the tool until it breaks completely, after which they buy another one. This is most often due to a lack of understanding of how to properly sharpen a drill for metal. It must be remembered that sharpening can be done with your own hands, at home. You will need special tools.
It is possible to make a hole in steel if the tool is well sharpened. If, when drilling, the area where the drilling fixture touches the part squeaks, it means the tool has become dull. It will begin to scroll and rub against the steel. In addition, heat dissipation will increase significantly.
Specialists usually use small instruments with a radius of less than eight millimeters. To sharpen blunt drills at home, you can use:
- sharpening device with an abrasive wheel;
- grinding device;
- electric drill with appropriate attachment.
You can use any other device on which you can place a special stone and ensure its torsion. The rotation speed must exceed eight hundred revolutions per minute.
Preparation
Before you start sharpening, put on glasses, gloves, and prepare a container with liquid. The smallest particles and sparks will fly from the sharpening device in different directions. If you do not cover your hands and head, they can injure skin covering. The organs of vision will be particularly affected. IN best case scenario You will get away with minor problems with your eyes, or at worst, you will go blind.
The container with water is intended for cooling the instrument. When sharpening, it will begin to heat up from friction against the rotating surface of the abrasive. If the tool is not cooled, it will overheat and break.
Sharpening procedure
How to sharpen a drill for metal? It's not too difficult. It is required to strictly follow the algorithm by which the procedure is performed. First of all, decide what type of drill sharpening to choose. The choice depends on the shape that the cutting parts of the tool should have.
To make sure that the device is sharpened correctly, look at it. If you did everything correctly, then:
- the cutting parts are of identical length relative to the axis of the drill;
- The sharpening angles of the elements do not differ from each other.
Drill sharpening should begin from the base of the tool, located at the back. It is necessary not to deviate from the angle set at the beginning. If you haven't done anything like this before, you may need to repeat the sharpening a couple of times. After each sharpening, carefully inspect the tool. The procedure must be repeated until the back becomes cone-shaped (when viewed from the left/right).
If you sharpen in one plane, then the rear base is processed at an angle of twenty-eight to thirty degrees. This is a simple method that is used for instruments of small thickness (radius no more than one and a half millimeters).
The device must be applied at a certain sharpening angle to the abrasive element. Do not allow the tool to turn over or move. This will cause the cutting parts to scatter, especially when the metal is of low quality.
The cutting elements of tools with a large radius must be sharpened conically. This method is more difficult than the previous one. If you're not sure you can do the procedure correctly, practice on a part you don't need before sharpening.
How to sharpen a drill bit conically? With your left hand, grab the main one, and with your right hand, the tail section. The base should be near the fence cone. Otherwise, sharpening will not proceed correctly. Use your right hand to rock the instrument. A cone-shaped base will form at the back. A similar procedure must be carried out for the other part of the instrument. Make sure that the pen does not move away from the abrasive element even for a second.
Peculiarities
How to sharpen a metal drill correctly? Ensure that the rear of the drilling jig retains its original shape. This technique will allow you to accurately withstand set angles drill sharpening. You will be able to sharpen tools with a radius of up to five millimeters with your own hands. How to sharpen drills bigger size? Sharpen the main parts of each nib separately.
When sharpening, the front and rear angles of the tool decrease, and the angle of the cutting edge increases. This ensures an extension of the operational period and a reduction in the width of the transverse edge.
When using the conical sharpening method, the nib becomes stronger. IN production conditions fine-tuning is often carried out, which provides the opportunity to eliminate the smallest irregularities that remain after sharpening a metal drill with your own hands.
Using a template to set the angle
How to sharpen a drill yourself? This was written above. To eliminate errors, you need to check the correctness of sharpening with a special device - a template.
The template can be made from a sheet of metal (copper, aluminum, steel) having a thickness of approximately one millimeter. It is advisable to use steel sheets because they last longer than others. Using the template, calculate the sharpening angle of the wood/metal drill at the tip, the size of the cutting parts, the angle between the bridge and the edge. Instead of the back angle, which is quite difficult to calculate, it is necessary to measure the point angle.
If the lengths of the cutting parts and their angle of inclination to the tool axis are uneven, the load will be distributed incorrectly. As a result, the operating period will be shortened due to wear of the cutting parts, which are constantly in a state of overload.
Differences in the load on parts of the tool provoke its runout when processing the part. Because of this, the radius of the hole is larger than necessary. The easiest way to determine whether sharpening is correct is to try to make a hole using a drilling device. If the chips fly out unevenly, it means that the wood/metal drill was sharpened incorrectly.
Sharpening device
It is possible to make a sharpening unit yourself. It contains a large base and a small part with holes for drilling devices of different sizes. The device cannot be intended for sharpening any one tool. It must provide the ability to process tools that have different diameter and length.
The base of the device, through which twist drills are sharpened, can be made of planed slats 3-4 centimeters thick. You need to attach them to them at an angle of 32 degrees. wooden plank, having a side bevel at an angle of 27 degrees. This bar is intended for the correct orientation of the holder with the drill relative to the grinding element. The holder can be made from a block with a bevel at an angle of 62 degrees.
You already know how to sharpen a drill bit for wood/metal. It's not too difficult. You will need to be focused, patient and persistent, and careful. Only in this case will you be able to maintain the required sharpening angle of the metal drill. If you doubt your abilities, contact a qualified specialist. However, remember one of the main advantages of sharpening yourself - savings Money. The master will not sharpen your tool for free. The exception is when the specialist is your friend. You can also watch a video of sharpening a metal drill. Nowadays, on the Internet you can easily find and download similar videos that clearly explain the process of sharpening a drilling device.
Sharpening metal tools allows you to fully restore their functionality. The operation can be performed using various auxiliary devices.
How to properly sharpen a drill for metal and not spoil the cutting surface of the product will be discussed in the publication.
Sharpening should be started only when obvious signs of dullness of the cutting edge are detected.
Among the main manifestations of the disease are the following:
- increased noise during operation;
- metal shavings have a fine fraction;
- tool overheating.
When drilling metal with a dull drill, a high-frequency sound occurs from the friction of the working edge against the workpiece. Therefore, if increased noise occurs, you should postpone work and start sharpening. If you continue to drill metal, the cutting product will heat up to too high a temperature due to excessive heat.
Before the above-described signs appear, a decrease in sharpness may be indicated by the absence of spiral-shaped chips. Such a sign cannot always be detected in time. Ate the drill with correct delivery forms too small chips during operation, it is recommended to immediately begin debugging the tool.
How to sharpen a drill for metal
A correctly selected device will significantly reduce time costs and perform the job as accurately as possible. Find out below how to sharpen a metal drill using a sharpener.
In addition to the main unit with an electric motor and a wheel, you will need to purchase special devices that hold the drill in a stationary state. Such stands allow you to control the angle of inclination and feed of the tool during turning.
Many devices allow you to debug metal cutting products with a diameter of 3 to 19 mm. To turn twist drills, you can use special machines that have a built-in electric motor and a feed mechanism.
Unlike using a conventional sharpener and holder, professional equipment can cost tens of thousands of rubles. Therefore, if sharpening drills is not a profession, then you can get by using the above-described tandem of a sharpening wheel and a holder, or straighten the tool manually.
You can sharpen a drill with a file without experience. The main thing is to choose the right file. Considering the fact that even cheap drills are made of high-quality cutting steel, you will need to select a diamond-coated needle file. In addition to the file, you need to prepare a vice in which to fix the tool.
In order not to waste time and energy on manual method, you can use a grinder with an abrasive wheel.
Sharpening a drill with a grinder
Almost every home workshop has a grinding machine, so the method will be one of the most budget-friendly.
In addition to the grinder with the grinding wheel installed, you need to prepare a vice in which to hold the drill during sharpening. The room where tool debugging is carried out should be light so that the process of removing metal from the surface can be controlled. cutting surface.
Debugging is carried out in the following sequence:
- the drill is installed in a vice in a vertical position;
- a grinder is used to remove part of the trailing edge to completely eliminate signs of wear;
- The cutting edge is sharpened at an angle of 120 degrees.
To prevent the drill from overheating during the turning process, the contact of the emery wheel with the metal should last no more than 2 seconds. Repeating removal many times small quantity metal from the working edge, it is possible to adjust the tool to the required angle.
It is more convenient and safer to carry out work using a grinding wheel and a special holding device.
Sharpening a drill with a sharpener
Determining the amount of damage to a cutting product and debugging by eye is possible after many years of practice.
In other cases, you can install a special drill holder in close proximity to the emery wheel. The fastening must be strong so that the clamp does not move during work. If grinder fixed on wooden base, the installation of the clamp must still be carried out using a bolted connection.
To perform sharpening: the tool is securely fixed in the holding device, the sharpener motor is turned on and the drill comes into contact for a short time with the grinding wheel at a pre-selected angle.
- If nicks have formed on the surface of the cutting product, then before debugging it, it is necessary to remove the damage evenly on both sides.
- Caution should be exercised. Products of large diameter are heated from contact with the abrasive wheel to a high temperature, which leads to a decrease in mechanical strength metal
Sharpening using a drill attachment
Without an emery machine, using a special attachment for a drill, you can perform the operation efficiently and with less time.
You can purchase the attachment at any specialized store, but the device can only be used for sharpening medium-diameter products. Most of these attachments allow you to effectively turn tools with a diameter of 4 to 10 mm.
For beginners, the method is the most preferable. Drill sharpening is performed as follows.
- install the attachment on the drill;
- the drill is inserted into a hole of a suitable diameter;
- the drill is turned on and the product is sharpened on one side;
- By turning the drill 180 degrees, the opposite edge is sharpened.
To use the device effectively, consider the following features:
- Only slightly dull tools can be sharpened using a drill attachment. If there is deep damage to the cutting surface and the drill is overheated, it will not be possible to restore the product.
- The sharpening angle in such devices is fixed. Therefore, to restore drills for working with non-ferrous metals, you will need to purchase original device, or refine the products with a file.
Despite some disadvantages of this design, its use simplifies and speeds up the process of restoring cutting edges, and its low cost explains its popularity.
How to sharpen small items
Unfortunately, to sharpen thin drill using mechanized methods, including attachments for a drill, is unlikely to work. All work to restore a small-diameter product will need to be done manually.
The first attempt may end in failure, so you should first select an inexpensive thin drill that needs restoration and perform the operation on it. To work, you will also need a small diamond file and glasses with 4x magnification.
The process occurs in the following sequence:
- the drill is ground down to about 1 mm;
- The file is used to consistently sharpen the edges of the tool to the required angle.
The entire operation is performed “by eye”; it is important to use magnifying glasses and a powerful lighting device when working.
If your first attempt is unsuccessful, you should know that any skill can only be developed over a certain period of time. If you fail, don’t give up trying to learn a useful skill, like sharpening thin drills with your own hands.
Sharpening products of other designs
In addition to twist drills, tools of other designs are used for metal processing. You can debug the following tools at home.
Cone gimlets
You can sharpen using a regular file. The cutting edge of the product is sharpened at a right angle.
If a cone drill becomes dull in a limited area, then sharpening should be done without going beyond the damaged area.
Crowned
When debugging core tools, it is used special device and you need to know at what angle the metal should be removed from the cutting surface. Considering all the difficulties and time spent on performing the procedure, it is better to turn to experienced craftsmen for sharpening.
Then you won’t have to contact a specialist every time, and you yourself will be able to maintain the desired sharpness of the drill.
Sharpening requires a special device, which is used in professional work.
However, if you don't have one, you can assemble the sharpening device by hand and do all the work yourself correctly.
From the article you will learn how to make a machine necessary for sharpening metal, as well as how to properly sharpen a drill for metal. The instructions in the video will help you cope with this work faster and do everything correctly. You will also learn how to sharpen core, step and other types of drills.
Preparing for work
You don't have to be a professional to know how to sharpen metal drill bits. This requires a sharp tool to help keep it in optimal working condition.
Since you have to sharpen a metal device regularly, if you often work with this tool, some people prefer to buy a ready-made sharpening machine rather than assemble it themselves.
The most effective adaptation for sharpening core drills - a machine on which a sharpening stone is installed.
It's very easy to use and you don't need complicated instructions to get started.
However, it is advisable to know some of the nuances of how sharpening is carried out before starting the process: the tool is processed from behind along the edges, and the most important role is played by the angle at which the tool is positioned when fed to the machine.
If the angle is incorrect, the tool will be damaged and it will be impossible to correct it - you will have to buy a new one.
During sharpening, the greatest attention should be paid to the edge that makes up the cutting part of the device - it should be the sharpest, since it interacts with metal parts: screws, jumpers, etc.
Watch a video on how to properly sharpen your jigs before you begin this process yourself.
After this you need to collect necessary tools, which you will need to make a sharpening machine. You won’t be able to make it from improvised means - you’ll have to visit a hardware store.
First of all, you will need special wheels that are needed for sharpening.
You will only need to install one circle on the device itself, but they quickly become unusable, so it is recommended to buy several parts at once, so as not to spend a lot of time replacing them later.
This is especially true if you use the tool constantly - then you will have to sharpen it often. The purchased circle is installed on a rotating shaft.
In addition to these parts, you will need a cooling liquid - this can be water or machine oil. You also need a container into which the liquid will be poured.
If you do everything yourself, then you must remember about the liquid, because during the sharpening process the tool becomes very hot.
If you cannot cool it, its properties will deteriorate, and each time it will fail faster and faster.
A homemade machine for core tools must have correct angle, and this is the most the hard part in creating a device with your own hands.
To make the angle correct, you need to make difficult calculations, so consumers often decide to purchase a ready-made sharpening tool to save time and effort.
The most important angle is at the front, it is determined based on the main cutting plane.
The rear angle has parameters similar to the front one, but in accordance with the rear plane.
In order to determine how the upper corner is located, you need to look at the device from a side position: in correct position it is located between the first and second edge.
Typically, the first corner should have a slope of about 20 degrees, and the back - 10. The top angle always has the same value on all devices: 118 degrees.
Before work, you need to prepare gloves and goggles, since this work can be traumatic.
If you have little experience in creating such machines with your own hands, then pay more attention to how the circle is positioned, because if its feed angle is incorrect, the circle will simply break out of your hands.
Watch a video on how to assemble a sharpening machine - it will be very helpful if you have little experience.
The sharpening process and advantages of the machine
Core, step and other drills are sharpened in the same way, in several stages. The back of the device will be most involved.
First you need to turn on the device equipped with emery and bring a stepped drill to the circle, for example, which needs to be sharpened. In this case, the cutting part of the stepped drill should be directed towards the sharpener.
When working, the drill must be held very tightly so that it does not slip out.
If you positioned the drill correctly, it should be parallel to the mechanism.
In this position, all that remains is to sharpen it, and then you will get a quality tool that can be used again.
This sharpening method is only suitable for small drills, the diameter of which does not exceed 10 mm.
If the diameter of the drill turns out to be larger, then you need to extend the time spent on sharpening, and also pay more attention to the front side of the tool.
How to sharpen drills with different diameters, look at the video.
To sharpen core drills with a diameter of more than 16 mm, you will need a full-fledged machine.
In this case, doing it yourself will be more expensive and longer, but using a machine will make it better quality, since in this case you can easily set the correct inclined angle.
If you use drills frequently different sizes, then the machine will quickly pay for itself, because they have to be sharpened constantly.
There are several characteristics of core drills and other drills that can only be sharpened using a machine. Read them before you start working.
Firstly, if a stepped or other device is designed to work with a blind hole where the axial cutting force is reduced, then such a tool must be sharpened on a machine.
The same applies to drills designed to work with durable metals, or tools that have a small point and are designed for drilling deep holes.
A proper straightening machine must not only sharpen the drill, but also orient the tool towards the surface being processed relative to the grinding wheel.
That is why the machine is equipped with a sharpening plate that allows you to do this.
The device itself is fixed on the grinding plate, as well as the shaft and motor, thanks to which the machine is started.
The machine drill is installed on a rotary column, which is also located on the base plate.
The stove is easy to rotate the way you need and conveniently - this is another plus in using a full-fledged device.
The machine is started using a motor, so the column can be made from any bearing unit equipped with a shaft.
You will need to attach a mount to the shaft where the sharpening drill will be installed. You can fix it with ordinary bolts - they will give the tool the necessary reliability.
After you have installed the drill, you can turn on the machine: after starting, the column will automatically approach the circle and turn it around with the back part that needs sharpening.
This system is very convenient because it allows you to independently set the angle needed for high-quality processing tool.
Large machines are used for processing twist, core and other drills that have a diameter of more than 16 mm; for smaller tools, compact attachment machines can be used.
It is more convenient to work with such devices, because they can be moved or installed where you need them.
The design of such a machine is similar: on one side there is a connection unit responsible for installing the drill on the spindle, and on the other there is a hole into which the drill is installed.
Working with this device with your own hands is much easier: you need to fix the drill all the way, and then start the machine.
The simplest, but the least effective method sharpening a tool - do it with a grinder, or with a device on which a movable wheel is installed.
This method can only be effective if you manage to fix the drill in the correct position, which is quite difficult.
This method is dangerous because during operation the drill can easily slip off the wheel.
It makes sense to use a grinder only if you need to process a drill with minimum diameter, and there are no other devices for this.
In addition, sharpening with a grinder does not imply the creation of finishing, which is very important part process. Finishing is needed to make the tool even and smooth.
When professionally sharpening, finishing is required, as this increases the service life of the device.
If you have a silicon carbide wheel, then the finishing process can be done with your own hands at home.
Despite the fact that the process of sharpening a drill is not too complicated, without specialized devices, although it is not recommended to do it yourself, because you can not only damage the tool, but also injure yourself if you do not follow the work technology or use tools not intended for sharpening , for example, a grinder.
Twist drills must be sharpened along the back edges. It is worth noting that both cutting teeth should be treated in the same way. Don't forget that you need to sharpen the tool's feathers the same way, and creating the desired configuration of the back edge by hand is quite difficult.
It is customary to use special machines for sharpening. However, at home, you can use a regular sharpener as a sharpening tool.
Depending on the shape of the back surface, there can be several types of sharpening:
- Single-plane.
- Two-plane.
- Conical.
- Cylindrical.
- Screw.
In the first case, sharpening of the rear surface of the cutting blade is performed in the form of a continuous plane. Typically, the clearance angle should vary between 27-31 degrees. With single-plane sharpening, there is a high probability of chipping the cutting edge. This method must be done manually using a gimlet with a diameter of 2-3 mm.
Universal drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm are usually subjected to conical sharpening.
In order to more clearly demonstrate the features of such sharpening, let's look at the diagram.
The illustration shows the grinding wheel, the back surface of the gimlet and the cutting edge.
Imagine a cone whose generatrix is directed along the cutting edge of the drill and the end grinding wheel. The angle at the top of the figure is 26 degrees. The axis of the cutting tool intersects with the axis geometric figure and forms an angle of 45 degrees. It can be seen from the figure that if you begin to rotate the gimlet around the axis of the cone, a conical surface is formed on the rear edge. If the axis of the cutting tool and the imaginary cone are in the same plane, the clearance angle of the drill will be zero.
In order to form the correct back angle, it is necessary to slightly shift the axis of the gimlet in relation to the cone. The larger the offset, the larger the clearance angle will be.
It is no secret that it is practically impossible to comply with all these conditions when sharpening by hand. But if you still decide to sharpen the drill yourself, proceed as follows:
- Take the drill that will be sharpened by the working part with your left hand. With your right hand, grab the ponytail.
- Then press the cutting edge and back surface of the gimlet against the end of the grinding wheel.
- After this, with smooth movements right hand, without lifting the drill from the whetstone, rock it. This will create a conical surface at the rear end.
- Repeat this operation and for the second pen.
The next sharpening method will be a little easier.
- As in the previous method, take the working part of the gimlet with your left hand and the tail with your right hand.
- Press the cutting edge of the tool against the grinding wheel and rotate the drill around its axis. It is very important not to tear the gimlet away from the sharpening machine and maintain desired angle tilt towards the end of the grinding wheel.
As a result of sharpening, conical surfaces should form on the back surface of the cutting feathers. It is no secret that due to friction with the grinding wheel, the tool overheats. This leads to the tempering of the hardened part of the drill. As a result, the metal begins to gradually lose the necessary hardness. Therefore, it is better to sharpen with repeated cooling of the gimlet.
As a coolant for ordinary drills (for example, for wood), you can use simple distilled water or a water-soda solution.
However, you should not use it if your tool is made of carbide materials (for example, concrete drills). Also, under no circumstances should you use oil to cool the drill.
If you sharpen a tool dry without cooling, you need to remember a few rules:
- Do not remove too much metal in one pass.
- The rotation speed of the grinding wheel should be moderate.
- Do not overheat the gimlet.
- Sharpen the tool against the movement of the grinding wheel. This is necessary so that the cutting edge of the drill does not break off or become wrinkled during operation.
Is finishing required after sharpening the drill?
As practice shows, without fine-tuning it is impossible to achieve smooth surface cutting tool and remove small roughness. In addition, drills that are fine-tuned become wear-resistant.
For finishing it is best to use grinding wheels made of green silicon carbide. During the finishing process, it is very important to ensure that the axes are symmetrical. The cutting feathers must be the same length and have the same apex angles.
It is worth noting that the correct sharpening of the gimlet must be checked using special templates. They are made from sheets of the following metals:
- Copper.
- Aluminum.
- Titan.
Using a template, you can check the point angles and the length of the cutting feathers. The clearance angle is almost impossible to measure, so your best bet is to observe the angle of the point.
If cutting edges have uneven length and slope, loads of different modulus appear over the entire surface of the tool. Because of this, the drill will wear out faster. Therefore, immediately after sharpening, perform a test drilling. It will help you determine the uniformity of the cutting edge feathers.
How to sharpen a wood drill correctly
Wood drill bits are less susceptible to wear than metal cutting tools. To sharpen a drill for wood, you need to get a sharpening machine. Don't forget to stock up on water. It will be needed as a cooler.
If you don’t have a machine, wood drills can be sharpened even with a file, but this process will be long and painstaking.
You can also adapt for this a homemade machine from a drill, into the chuck of which a circle with fine emery cloth is clamped.
Basic rules for sharpening
- When sharpening, be sure to follow geometric dimensions and cutting tool configuration. If you use a sharpener to sharpen a wood drill bit, use the edge of the sharpening wheel to sharpen the entire process.
- To avoid hand burns, use protective gloves.
- After you have completed the preliminary sharpening, you need to bring the cutting edge to perfect condition. To do this, reduce the speed of the grinding wheel. Do not forget that you need to remove chips only along the body of the drill.
In conclusion, we note that sharpening drills is easy to do at home.
For correct processing cutting tools for metal and wood, it is necessary to ensure compliance with geometric configurations. Also, do not forget to cool the drill from time to time.
Drills come in different varieties, but in practice we often use those designed for working with metals. Despite the fact that such a tool is made from special grades of steel and is subjected to special hardening, it becomes dull over time. A thrifty owner will never throw away even the cheapest twist drill, since its functionality is easy to restore on his own, especially since in a private house or garage such a person always has an “emery machine” (a simple sharpening machine). How to sharpen a metal drill correctly will be discussed in this article.
Sharpening varies, and this largely depends on both the diameter of the drill and the specifics of its application. For example, on the type of metal with which you are supposed to work (“hard” or “soft”).
What to pay attention to
- During operation, the edge is positioned strictly parallel work surface stone (the grindstone axes).
- The main thing is gradual sharpening. It is not advisable to “press” the drill too hard against the circle.
- The length of all edges must be the same.
- An indicator of the completion of the work is the absence of reflective glare on the surface being treated.
You need to know that there is no universal meaning. For each type of material processed, its own sharpening angle is selected. Approximate values are shown in the table.
Types of sharpening
Single-plane
Typically used for drills no larger than 3 mm. The disadvantage is that during the work, partial “chipping” of the edge may occur, so this technique requires special care. The point is that the tool is applied to the circle and moves parallel to its working surface.
Conical
Suitable for drills larger than 3mm. The tool is held with both hands, while sequential sharpening of the feathers is carried out (light pressure against the stone with a slight “swing”).
Finishing
It is advisable to do this after the drill has been sharpened. The task is to remove the smallest nicks and polish the cutting edges. For this, an appropriate stone (“soft”) is used.
For many people, self-sharpening a tool using electric sandpaper is associated with certain difficulties or becomes impossible. The reason is poor vision.
Judging by messages on various forums, neither good lighting nor glasses with large diopters help. Those for whom this is really a problem can be advised to purchase a special machine. For example, made in China. It is inexpensive - about 1,500 rubles.
And despite the fact that our attitude towards products from this country is, to put it mildly, “wary”, such products (for example, “Caliber-ezs 200s”) are spoken of very well by those who have already worked with them. The range of machines is quite large, so there is always a choice (Mikra-10 and a number of others).
To ensure greater sharpening accuracy and facilitate this process, a special device can be made. Its meaning is clear from the picture.
If you don’t have electric sandpaper at hand (and strict requirements for the angle), then you can use a grinder to sharpen the drill.
A video from respected master Viktor Leontiev clearly demonstrates the entire process, so if some of the nuances of sharpening remain unclear, it’s worth watching:
