Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewerage. You can do sewerage in a private house with your own hands. This article will help you complete all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.
When you independently build a sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements for construction and installation work of this kind.
The choice of sewer system layout should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms, etc.). But most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which wastewater will flow into a cesspool or septic tank.
Experts advise, if available big house, which provides several various rooms with drainage and supply of water located in different parts building, give preference to a sewer system design that will have at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.
Types of sewerage
All work on constructing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands comes down to the arrangement of external and internal sewage systems. Work on internal sewerage includes installation fan pipe, riser and pipe distribution to such rooms as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes running from the house to a deep cleaning station (quite expensive ready-made solution) or up to homemade septic tank(with a filtering field or cumulative). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized wastewater disposal system, the task will be greatly simplified. But in this article we will consider precisely an autonomous system, including effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as cesspool.
First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at this stage, it is necessary to think about ensuring that all the rooms to which the sewerage system will be connected are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently this approach will significantly simplify the arrangement of the internal sewerage system. Each house requires an individual sewerage system, which can be very diverse.
In this case, one should take into account the fact that in the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used to drain wastewater. For gray waste that will flow into the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, you should use PP or PVC pipes s having a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be made using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of clogging, which is quite problematic to remove. It is more reliable and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage system, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron. And besides this, installing an internal sewage system using such pipes is much easier.
First of all, you need to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then do further wiring from it.
But before that, you should more accurately understand how you can independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, because in the future, using this scheme, it will be possible to make a full calculation of everything (plumbing equipment and materials) that you will need to arrange a sewerage system.
You can make a sewerage diagram on a piece of checkered paper, but it is advisable to purchase several sheets of graph paper for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp pencil.
For a private house, the sewerage diagram is drawn up in the following sequence:
- First you need to draw it to scale. If you don’t know the dimensions of the house, you will have to walk around with a tape measure and measure everything;
- Next, you need to decide where the risers will be located;
- after this, it is necessary to mark on the plan the locations of plumbing fixtures and decide how they will be connected;
- at the next stage, you need to mark the pipes that will go from the fittings and riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all connecting elements (tees, bends, etc.);
- everything listed above should be done for each floor of your house;
- then you need to decide on the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
- now all that remains is to sum up the length of all the pipes related to the internal sewage system;
- the next stage will be the external system, at which it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the external sewerage system, which includes pipes running from the deep treatment station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all existing SNiPs.
Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes used for these two sewerage schemes are different. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic grey colour. For sun loungers and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewerage, and for external sewerage it is necessary to use other solutions.
Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from a deep treatment station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which can be explained very simply - bright orange is more noticeable in the ground compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from others not only in color - they are subject to completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand significant loads while underground. There are more durable structures, an example of which could be two-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes when constructing a sewerage system for a private house is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be sufficient to drain wastewater from the house.
Cast iron
Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.
Flaws: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness may form on the inside due to corrosion, which can cause a blockage.
Polypropylene
Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most popular for indoor sewerage. They can withstand high wastewater temperatures without problems.
Flaws: If used as intended, there are no disadvantages.
Polyvinyl chloride
Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for external sewerage.
Flaws: They do not tolerate high temperatures of wastewater and are fragile (they do not bend, but crack).
Pipe laying
Probably the most labor-intensive process when constructing a private house with your own hands is the routing and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended to first check the tightness of the system by flushing clean water, and only then, having made sure that all the seams are secure, you can begin full operation.
It was said earlier that the simplest option would be to use PP or PVC pipes for sewerage. Currently, there are a large number of offers of these products on the construction market, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are securely and easily connected at the joints due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.
It is also necessary to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a free-flow system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Don't forget about this, because various points you will need to place the pipeline at different heights to ensure the required slope.
In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewerage systems, it is necessary to begin the installation of sewerage in the house from the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewer system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that leaves the house (riser).
The outlet must be installed through the foundation at a depth exceeding the soil freezing depth that corresponds to your region. You can install the outlet higher, but to do this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after the weather warms up.
If this is not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation that will accommodate the outlet pipe with the sleeve. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe whose diameter is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.
Summarizing the above, we can say that at this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).
It is best to place the riser in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted either openly or hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches or next to walls (fastening with pendants, clamps, etc.).
In order to connect sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that differ in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bathtubs and showers intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, don't forget about water seals, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.
It is imperative to install a special tee (inspection) on each riser, with the help of which it will be possible, if necessary, to clear the blockage. In order to avoid having to carry out sewer cleaning work in the future, it is necessary to install cleaning after each turn.
The removal and installation of the vent pipe plays a very important role, since the vent pipe is needed for:
- maintenance within the system atmospheric pressure so that water hammer and air vacuum do not occur;
- increasing the durability of the sewer system;
- ventilation of the entire sewerage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.
A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is led to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install an inspection. After this, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle into the attic.
It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the drain pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the exhaust pipe outlet away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to place the sewerage ventilation, chimney and ventilation of the house at different levels.
To summarize all of the above, we can say the following:
- at the first stage, you should start drawing up a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from the plumbing fixtures to the riser as much as possible;
- it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser as additional devices are connected. The diameter should not be reduced;
- need to stick to simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
- when installing sewerage in a private house, sharp corners should be excluded, and pipes should be laid with a certain slope;
- where blockages may form in the future, cleaning and inspection must be provided in advance;
- To ventilate the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.
You can install a sewer system in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed below. It is very important to choose the right system that will satisfy all your needs.
It is necessary to select a scheme for arranging a sewerage system taking into account certain parameters:
- temporary or permanent residence in the house;
- the number of people living in the house permanently;
- how much water each person uses daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
- at what level does groundwater lie?
- what size is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
- what type and structure of soil;
- climatic conditions.
To get more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.
All sewer systems for a private home can be divided into two types:
- storage systems (sealed container for wastewater, cesspool without a bottom);
- structures designed for wastewater treatment (aeration tank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural purification, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification).
A cesspool is the most ancient and centuries-tested method of arranging a sewer system. This method had no alternative 50-70 years ago. It is true that in those days people did not use as much water in a private home as they do now.
In essence, a cesspool is a well that has no bottom. In the cesspool, you can make walls from concrete, concrete rings, bricks or other material, and leave soil as the bottom. After sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively pure water will, when cleansed, seep into the soil, and solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When over time the well becomes completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.
Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, it was buried, and another was dug up in another place.
It should be noted that it is possible to install a sewer system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily waste does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case will soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And if the volume of wastewater exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary purification, which will lead to groundwater contamination. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will reduce the bad smell, which comes from it, and will also speed up the process of water purification. But it's still not worth the risk.
Conclusion. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when people do not live in the house permanently, but visit it several times a week, without using a lot of water. Also, it is worth paying attention to the fact that groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even despite this, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.
In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container near the house into which water from the entire house will flow through pipes. wastewater. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal, and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of a sewer system of this type is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.
Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely filled, for which you will have to call a sewer truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the tank and the frequency of emptying it depend on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people live in a house on a permanent basis and use washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bathtub, then storage tank must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.
Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging a sewer system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible contamination. But the downside of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is convenient access to it. The bottom of the container or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the container.
The simplest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank
A single-chamber septic tank is not very different from a regular cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well, in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of crushed stone (at least 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of the crushed stone. In this case, wastewater from the house flows through pipes into the well, where the water then seeps through sand, crushed stone and soil, being purified by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water purification, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.
Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewer system in a private house using single-chamber septic tank, if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with low groundwater levels and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.
The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging a sewer system in a private home; moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.
This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has a sealed bottom, and the second has no bottom, but is sprinkled with crushed stone and sand.
From the house, wastewater flows into the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and fatty waste floats to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clear water is formed. The first well is connected to the second at about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there freely. The second well receives slightly clarified water, which then seeps through sand, crushed stone and soil, purifying itself even more.
The first well serves as a sump, and the second - a filter well. From time to time, the first well will fill with feces and you will need to call a sewer truck to clean it out. This needs to be done approximately once every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, you need to add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.
The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made one from the manufacturer plastic septic tank, in which additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.
Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system based on two overflow wells in a private house only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy loam or sandy soil then it will be ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and crushed stone in the second well will need to be replaced.
Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field
This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which is divided into several separate containers connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system, you purchase a ready-made version.
The first container of the septic tank is designed to settle wastewater, as happens in a conventional settling well. Next, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe into the second section or container, where all existing organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After this, the more clarified water flows to the filtration fields.
The filtration field is a fairly large (about 30 sq.m.) underground area where wastewater undergoes soil treatment. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%, due to the large area. If the soil on your site is sandy loam or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, but otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and crushed stone. After the water passes through the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and sent to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees above the filtration field; you can only make a flower bed.
Over time, the filtration field will become silted and will need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with sand and crushed stone. This is a very large amount of work, and your site may suffer.
Conclusion. The construction of a sewer system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.
With the help of a deep cleaning station, you can carry out a complete installation of sewerage in a private house, even with a fairly high groundwater level.
This station is a container that is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, checking with professionals in advance about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from 1200 USD, which is not cheap at all.
The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues decompose with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily require a constant flow of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. A filter is installed in the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, into which aerobic bacteria are introduced. In fact, this is a filtration field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and small area water movement, water purification occurs more thoroughly (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used for washing a car, watering a garden and much more. A pipe comes from the fourth chamber, which is directed either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.
Conclusion. For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is great solution. Adding microorganisms to the septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station requires permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.
Artificial treatment station - a septic tank with forced air supply
This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes occur artificially. Arranging the sewer system of a private house using an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and air pump.
This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are connected to each other. Water through the sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and settles into solid waste. Next, the partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.
Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank by a special pump.
Thanks to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).
Conclusion. The aeration tank is, of course, quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewer system. Among the disadvantages, we can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.
If your site has a high groundwater level, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can choose several options:
- aeration tank (aeration treatment station);
- septic tank with biofilter;
- an airtight container in which waste accumulates.
There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewerage system facilities.
Septic tank location:
- at least 10 meters from the garden;
- at least 20-50 meters from any water sources (pond, well, well);
- at least 5 meters from residential buildings.
Residential building location:
- 300 meters from stations and drainage wells;
- 50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
- 25 meters from the filter field;
- 8 meters from the filter well.
Be sure to make a design for the sewerage system of a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since sewerage is a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design office, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account operating conditions, climate, site and soil. It’s even better if you do a sewerage project together with a house project, even before construction begins.
The work itself on installing a sewerage system for a private home is not particularly difficult. You just need to correctly route the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and lead them to the septic tank. You can hire an excavator for excavation work, or you can do it yourself. The main thing is to draw up a project and competently select a sewerage system.
The installation of a sewer system requires the most scrupulous attitude to all stages of the process, including depth, slope, and reliability of connections. Each of these factors has a great impact on the quality of operation of the entire system. Negligence is unacceptable here; if you do not have confidence in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.
Laying depth of the sewer system
Modern sewer systems significantly improve the standard of living in a private home. If in previous years a toilet on the street was perceived as an unpleasant necessity, inseparable from a private home, today it is a sign of laziness of the owners or their extremely low income. Moreover, in the first case, you can get out of the situation by hiring professionals who will do absolutely all the work.
The depth of the pipeline depends on the depth of the septic tank.
Advice! The pipe laid between the building and the septic tank must be straight. Knees and turns will cause blockages.
Before installing a sewer system, you should find out what average depth freezing in your region. The pipes need to be laid a little lower than these figures. Typically, the depth at which sewer pipes are located in a private house in the south is more than 50 cm. In the central part of the country, where the climate is harsher, the depth of sewer pipes in a private house is at least 70 cm. These figures are especially significant if sewer pipes are located under platforms or under paths that are winter period freed from snow.
Features of laying sewer pipes
Laying sewer pipes must be conducted in accordance with the following rules:
- you need to use pipes of the required diameter;
- it is necessary to observe the standard slope norm (about 0.03 m per 1 linear meter pipes);
- it is permissible to use pipes from different materials, but in one pipeline the pipes must match in material.
The depth of the pipeline can be determined based on the following points:
- the nature of the site (its topography, soil features);
- The point where the sewer pipe exits the house.
The angle of inclination is needed so that the wastewater flows by gravity, in this case there is no need to install a pump, and excess dirt will not accumulate inside the pipe, which can cause blockages. For the same purpose outer part the system is performed without turning. Inside the premises, the sewerage installation scheme in a private house allows for pipe rotations; this will not become a serious obstacle to the functionality of the system. If you allow the outer part of the sewer system to turn, you will definitely have to tear off these pipes. Consequently, neglecting these rules can create very serious problems that cannot always be solved quickly.
Advice! If it is impossible to lay a sewer pipe without turning, you need to make a well at the turning point, into which you can always penetrate and remove the blockage in this area. This technique allows you to lay a sewer pipeline in any area.
Why is laying depth important?
The main reason for the need to be overly careful about the depth of pipe laying is the possibility of freezing. If this happens in the middle of winter, residents of the house will be left without the ability to use the sewer system until warmer days when the ice melts. Even minimal ice build-up inside the pipes will lead to blockages and a decrease or complete cessation of permeability. This is a natural result of narrowing the lumen of the pipe. Getting rid of blockages in places where pipes turn in external system wells contribute.
This convenient device allows you to monitor the operation of the sewer system and eliminate emerging problems in a timely manner. It is not very difficult to make, but it brings a lot of comfort to the process of operation.
Taking into account the depth of soil freezing is a fundamental requirement. In order not to spend money on constructing deeper trenches than necessary, you need to have a clear understanding of the depth of soil freezing in a given area. Below is a table that will help you navigate this issue.
How to properly install thermal insulation?
In cold regions, it is recommended to supplement the sewer pipeline with thermal insulation. This technique allows you to extend the service life and eliminate the possibility of freezing at very low temperatures. Most often, polyurethane foam is used for this purpose. If you wrap the pipe in polyurethane foam and make a polyethylene shell on top, the pipe will not be afraid of frost.
If you lay pipes below the possible freezing point, the pipes will never freeze. In this case, additional protection is provided in case of extreme cold. When performing thermal insulation Special attention pay attention to joints and turning points. It is these zones that tolerate the effects of cold rather poorly. So insulation of turning points is mandatory.
In Europe, a more technologically advanced method is used. An electric cable is placed next to the pipeline; if necessary, it acts as a heater for the pipe. For many residents of our country, this method is too expensive, because paying for energy is not the smallest expense item. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the depth of pipe laying. In the central regions, it is better to choose a depth of 1 m. And in the northern regions, it is advisable to dig deeper trenches and carry out high-quality thermal insulation. For this you can either use fiberglass. If the pipes are located above the ground, they are also insulated similar materials. Since they can be filled with water, .
Video - Installation of external sewerage and insulation
The interior of the sewer system of a private house
For uninterrupted operation sewerage must comply with the pipe diameter requirements:
- toilet, shower, bath, swimming pool – 10 – 11 cm;
- sink – 5 cm;
- riser – 10 – 11 cm.
Video - Correct installation of sewer pipes
External part of the sewer system of a private house
The main requirement is to ensure proper slope. Only correct drain– gravity flow. Too low a speed will cause blockages. Moving wastewater too quickly will accelerate the destruction of pipes.
The scheme for laying sewerage in a private house includes a description of the characteristics of the pipe exiting the premises. The rules for removing the pipe from the house depend on the type of foundation. With a strip foundation, the outlet is arranged on the side. For slab installations, the pipe is laid from top to bottom; for this, a section of pipe and a 45° elbow are used. To install a sewer system, a sleeve pipe is laid in the foundation in advance, through which the main pipeline is then routed. Such a base is needed to protect the pipeline from excessive pressure and potential destruction.
In the photo - Standard depth for laying a sewer pipe.
In order not to make a mistake about the depth of pipe installation, you need to find out how things are going with your neighbors who have already installed a drain for themselves. If they have problems with pipe freezing, you will need to bury your pipe further. No matter how deep the pipe lies, a slope is required in any case. Usually make 2 - 3 cm per linear meter.
- First, you should make a detailed diagram of the pipeline layout inside the house. This will reduce time and financial costs by providing all the best options.
- The pipes are routed towards the riser or septic tank, sharp corners are excluded.
- The riser on each floor must be equipped with a tee designed to service the sewer system for quick cleaning.
Hard to call comfortable a private house, not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network is subject to requirements for environmental friendliness and efficiency; The drainage system of a private home should be simple to install and easy to use.
Schematic diagram of a sewer system in a private house
One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; How to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will be helped by empirically tested rules.
Types of sewerage systems in a private house
All houses located in the private sector are divided into two categories:
Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases - best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned expenses and water quality control.
Houses where connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is unavailable is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, sewerage installation in a private house comes down to stand-alone option, where water purification and waste disposal occur in locally installed treatment facilities.
You can also combine sewer and drainage systems
The autonomous sewerage system includes:
Internal sewerage responsible for collecting wastewater and discharging it outside. This includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.
External sewerage. Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).
The most suitable type of individual cleaning equipment (in terms of performance) is selected taking into account several factors:
seasonality of living in the house;
intensity of water use;
plot size, soil type and structure;
groundwater level;
climatic conditions of the region.
The first stage of sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary project diagram.
Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram in a house
The sewerage diagram in a private house is tied to the house plan. It must contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drainage points.
When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will cause problems in the future during operation and repair.
Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and ceilings are installed, but Finishing work premises has not yet been completed. External sewerage is installed after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage diagram for a private two-story house:
General diagram of internal sewerage in a two-story house
The procedure for drawing up a diagram:
All drawings are drawn to scale; the installation location of the riser, pipe laying lines, and the number of drain points (connection of plumbing and household appliances) are indicated on the plan.
The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (taking into account the outlet), and the exit point from the main riser structure.
In places where blockages may form, cleaning and inspection are provided.
A separate drawing is constructed for each floor.
Calculate the size and installation location of the fan pipe (in large sewer systems ah prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the sewer pipe)
The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer design and installation services for sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
About the sewerage diagram with a waste pipe in the video:
Selection of pipes for internal sewerage
The following categories of pipes are allowed by building codes:
Cast iron. Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion-resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and blockages. Pipes are ideal for laying in the ground.
Plastic. They are lighter and cheaper than cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for indoor wiring are gray in color; intended for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:
Pipes from PVC(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from high temperature and are mainly used in outdoor work.
Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and wear-resistant. They are valued for their heat resistance (soften only at 140 C°), making them ideal for indoor use.
Plastic pipes for internal and external circuits
Less common ceramic And asbestos-cement analogues.
In practice, installation of sewerage in a private house is in most cases carried out using products made of polymer materials (plastic). The choice is determined by the lack of corrosion (plastic is resistant to the aggressive environment of wastewater), and easy installation of structures.
How to make a sewer line
The most labor-intensive part of the work is considered to be the installation of sewerage for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.
Inside the house
Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are installed parallel to the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.
The sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:
Sewer riser, diameter 100 mm.
Main (between the riser and the outlet); diameter 70 mm.
Branch pipes (connected to a washbasin, bathtub, washing machine) – 50 mm.
Completed installation of the outlet pipe
The drainage system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are installed with a slope, the magnitude of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per linear meter, with a diameter of 100 mm – 20 mm.
Completed ceiling wiring
Horizontal wiring is carried out using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45°; This arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, inspections (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are permissible only in vertically located structures.
Fan pipe
If a large amount of waste suddenly enters the sewer, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of low atmospheric pressure (rarefaction) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.
When the pressure equalizes, without a water plug, the smell from the sewer enters the room through the siphons. To prevent the occurrence of vacuum, a fan pipe is installed with air valve– they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.
Features of the fan pipe:
It is designed and installed 50-70 cm above the roof.
It is prohibited to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.
It is not placed near windows or balconies.
Outlet of the exhaust (waste) pipe through the roof
External part
Installation of the external part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.
Release (the link between external and internal sewerage at the boundary of the room) is laid in the foundation of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not provided for when laying the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the protective sleeve, 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.
Laying external communications
It is reasonable to place wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) nearby and at the same time as close as possible to central riser. This will help reduce the length of sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.
A large project (swimming pool, bathhouse, sauna) and additional plumbing means a large volume of waste. A carefully designed water supply and drainage system, additional risers and septic tanks, and a pump connection will be required.
Sewage pipes in a private house can be located under the floor, in the walls, or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which foreign odors will not be able to penetrate into the premises.
It is unacceptable to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noise. As the slope decreases, the flow of water slows down, which can lead to blockages.
Slope control when laying sewerage
The complex terrain of the site creates additional problems for laying a pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is constructed that allows one to determine the position of the sewerage elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, installing a pump will be the solution.
You can clearly see some of the nuances of sewerage in the video:
Conclusion
A properly designed and organized sewerage system will help create the necessary minimum comfort for the inhabitants of the house. Achieving this worthy goal is facilitated by the involvement of specialized specialists. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a wooden or brick house - the principles of operation of the system are the same everywhere.
It is unlikely that a modern person can imagine his existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or cottage, first of all it is necessary to properly arrange the water supply and, of course, the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.
The installation of a sewerage system allows you not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.
Installation of a sewer system is a labor-intensive process and requires a serious approach; moreover, it is best to design a sewer system for initial stage construction of private buildings.
Before starting work, it is necessary to install a water supply and only then install the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.
Main types of sewer systems
Modern sewer systems are classified into three main types:
- Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
- External, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, treatment stations, cesspool settling wells, and septic tanks.
- The most important stage is the installation of a sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and connections to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage it is very important proper arrangement, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.
Materials that will be needed when installing a sewer system
The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser into which waste water flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and is drained into a sump, which is located on the site.
Necessary materials:
- Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
- Bends for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
- Tees of the required style, which are necessary for branching the system.
- Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of different diameters.
- Audits to monitor the functioning of the sewer system and access for cleaning it in case of blockage.
- Plugs for sockets that cover unused holes.
- Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
- Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun, which is necessary for its application.
Important! The riser will require a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain wastewater from the toilet. Install the riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-arranged shaft.
In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.
The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to level the future locations and joints that will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilets, and bathtubs.
To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leaks, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.
Since plastic pipes are most often used when constructing a sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. The more reliable the fastening, the less likely the sewer pipes will be deformed, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.
Self-assembly of a sewer system
It is quite simple to install a sewer system with your own hands, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to maintain the sequence of work, acquire quality materials, and prepare the necessary tool for the job.
Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time monitoring quality.
It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle, which will prevent them from clogging and ensure the normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination for each meter should be from 2 to 4 degrees.
You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging a sewage system - it is better to give preference to pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connecting and joining. To do this, you need to build a box or trench from plasterboard or other waterproof material. This design will allow for reliable fixation and a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.
Important! When installing a transition between a vertical drain and a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install in this place connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees. This will help to significantly reduce the load on components and pipes from pressure when draining water.
To install the transition unit, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection coupling, which will allow you to clean the system if it becomes clogged.
At the next stage, the drain line is taken outside the house. make a hole in the foundation of the required size and cut out a corner at an angle of 15 degrees and then set a constant level of inclination drain pipe up to and including her entry into drain hole no more than 2-3 degrees.
You should not make a smaller slope or, conversely, tilt the pipe too much. A small slope will slow down the flow of sewage, and a strong slope will cause wastewater to flow too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to blockages and disruption of the sewer system.
Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and if the distance is too large, it can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.
At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your region. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench should be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final filling of the soil.
It is equally important to install several small inspection wells along the entire length of the sewer pipes, which will allow an inspection of the sewer system in case of blockages. Immediately before laying sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.
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When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed with your own hands. There is nothing surprising about this: the process itself is quite simple, and performing the work does not require any special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be followed: for example, it is worth designing the structure carefully and ensuring that one communication line does not interfere with another. How to install a sewer system in a private house will be discussed in this article.
If we talk about sewerage, the first thing you need to know is this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is somewhat easier to install, since the work is carried out in an open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands begins with it.
Installation of internal sewerage in a private house
The first stage of arranging a structure is planning. It is necessary to know exactly how much plumbing fixtures will be installed and where they will be installed. When carrying out work, be sure to have a pre-compiled project on hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be positioned as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is located. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is installed as low as possible so that it is easier for the drains to move there on their own (read also: " ").The riser is usually made of a 110 mm pipe made of plastic. All drainage pipes are connected to the riser, through which wastewater is collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.
Do-it-yourself sewer installation in a private house is usually done parallel to the water line. This installation is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare grooves intended for laying pipes. There is one nuance here: the water supply system operates under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.
The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity principle, so the slope must be maintained in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, average value the slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will very soon begin to create problems.
To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings made of the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. When laying hidden sewers, you need to not only lay the pipes in prepared grooves, but also fix them with clamps for reliability. The grooves themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.
Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage
The elements of the external sewer system include all parts located outside the building.Installing a sewer system in a private house requires attention, especially in the following moments:
- The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire highway should be made as straight as possible.
- If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.
- Large volume of excavation work. It is necessary to lay external sewerage systems, taking into account the level of soil freezing: pipes must be below this level in order to negative temperatures did not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
- Creating a sewer well. Before creating a sewer system in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drainage, which is affected primarily by the number of residents. The large expected volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be quite large.
- Selecting a system type. The quality of collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the ease of operation of the sewer system will be directly influenced by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful station biological treatment will be expensive, but its performance indicators will be at the highest level. Read also: "".
In any case, the external sewerage presents special requirements to its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.
Carrying out excavation work
Excavation- one of the first stages of sewerage installation. You can carry out this work either independently or with the assistance of additional forces(teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work it is necessary to mark the area through which the trench will pass.In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using technology, the required value will not be achieved, so everything will have to be leveled yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.
Construction of a sewer well
This design can be made from different materials:- brickwork;
- metal tank;
- reinforced concrete rings;
- plastic septic tank.
- Devices made of bricks or blocks are quite good elements of the sewer system, but their installation takes a lot of time. With little experience construction work It can take several days to create a brick well.
- A metal structure compares favorably with a brick structure in its ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much shorter: metal is easily susceptible to corrosion, and very soon the device will become faulty.
- Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since their advantages include strength, reliability and durability. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is that it is difficult to install: the finished rings have considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them yourself.
- Plastic septic tanks can also be considered reliable and quality designs: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of the design is slightly higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs of constructing, for example, concrete wells, the price will be almost equal. Read also: "".
How to install sewer pipes
Pipeline installation usually starts from the house - this makes it easier to ensure that the slope of the structure is maintained. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the main line to sewer well. For this purpose, couplings are also used to connect all external sewerage pipes to each other and to the internal sewerage system. When the pipes are assembled and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.
Subtleties of sewerage arrangement
There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer system:Soil freezing level too deep. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the volume of work will increase greatly. This phenomenon can be avoided by using thermal insulation.
It can be done in two ways:
- with help thermal insulation materials performing well this work;
- using electric heating, realized through a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.
Design selection. Selecting a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewer more clear, it is worth reading the article about the types of sewer systems.
Conclusion
Installing a sewer system in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for the work, the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.
