Prefabricated houses are attractive because once the foundation is ready, the house itself can be erected very quickly. For example, building frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, it is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly occurs step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to correctly assemble each unit. Having instructions, understanding the principle of construction, frame house Anyone can assemble it themselves.

Frame construction is no less attractive because it can be done at minimal cost. How much money will be required for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more thing. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is yes, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. The following wintering options are also possible:

• foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection;
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

It is dangerous to leave windows and doors unattended over the winter. In other options, delaying the completion of construction is even a good idea: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already assembled part.

After pouring the piles, a grillage is installed, and the reinforcement is laid and tied into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement outlets from the piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert pieces plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner, 30 cm are retreated in both directions. Here, studs are required, the rest depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Please note that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. That’s why it’s better to deliver more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there must be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring the concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gains strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (look at the photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains within +20°C, construction can continue after about 3-5 days. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with it freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at +17°C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest way to do this is with bitumen mastic. And it’s better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Roofing felt is cheaper, but it breaks over time. Waterproofing or other similar modern material is more reliable.

You can coat the grillage once with mastic, and roll out waterproofing on top. Another option for shut-off waterproofing under a frame house - two layers of waterproofing coated with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

First layer - liquid waterproofing, While it is not dry, you can glue a layer of rolled paper onto it

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is placed so as to cover the joint of the first row. It turns out to be a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, you can lay one beam of 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a larger bearing capacity, although it takes longer to install them. To make them work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We install the harness and logs

The next stage is installation and installation of the logs. These are the same 150*50 mm boards placed on edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the trim board, two nails on the right and left to the bed. So each lag is on both sides.

The photo shows that the first joist is installed close to the second - this way the load is better transferred to the foundation. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the cross-section of the lumber used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, to prevent the logs from “moving away,” jumpers are placed above the cross beam. Their length is equal to the step of installing the logs minus the double thickness of the board: if the step of the log is 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring has been installed, it is time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show you an economical option - with polystyrene foam boards with a density of 15 kg/m3 (more is possible, less is not possible). It is, of course, not environmentally friendly, but it is the only one that is not afraid of moisture and can be installed without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they shift).

To begin with, a 50*50 mm cranial block is packed along the lower edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

The foam is cut with a regular hacksaw. You can take the blade for wood - it cuts faster, but it turns out torn edge or on metal - it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut slabs are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they seal the perimeter with sealant to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the subfloor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). To prevent the rough flooring of boards from warping, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to look up and down (see photo).

You can do without plank flooring. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your region and choose.

In any case, the sheets must be laid apart - the seams should not coincide (as in brickwork). Also, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size when humidity changes.

The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws 35 mm long (preferably white ones - less waste) around the perimeter in increments of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part, depending on the size) on the floor, then raised, positioned and secured. Sometimes with this method, OSB, gypsum fiber board, plywood with outside frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-panel or “platform”. Factories generally operate according to this principle: they build ready-made panels according to the design in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But frame-panel house construction is possible with your own hands.

The second method: everything is assembled gradually, locally. The beam of the lower trim is nailed, they are set corner posts, then intermediate ones, top harness, etc. This is the technology called “frame house construction” or “balloon”.

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract help. Working on the floor is faster and more convenient than jumping up/down a stepladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult even for two people to lift it. The solution is either to call help or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150*150 mm or 100*100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner posts, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will be insulating with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, no gaps and cracks through which heat will escape. The density of installation of insulation in frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Fastening the racks is possible in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. The corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels - old technology, but difficult to execute: long dowels are planed, a hole is drilled diagonally through the stand and beam of the lower trim, a wooden tenon is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity is possible. Installation on reinforced corners much easier.

By Canadian technology The beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore the support must be more powerful.

Reinforced counters near windows and doors are a must. This is the only way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer cladding is planned to be made of high-strength slab material - OSB, gypsum fiber board, gypsum fiber board, plywood - temporary slopes are installed from the inside of the room. They are needed to level and maintain geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is sufficient to create the required structural rigidity.

If the cladding is planned to be made up of linings, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Please note that in the photo above the racks are prefabricated: two boards are nailed together along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But construction time increases: you have to hammer in a lot of nails.

Corners of a frame house

The most questions arise when constructing corners. If you place a beam in a corner, then there seem to be no difficulties, except that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winter This is not a problem, but already in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so it’s clearer.

After assembling the frame, it is most often sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Covering

The floor beams rest on the beam of the upper frame. There are several mounting methods:

• on supporting steel brackets;
• on the corners;
• with insert;

Notching - the depth of the cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top frame timber. It is hammered in from above with two nails, which must go into the harness at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily perforated staples - the shape may vary

The dimensions of the beams and the pitch of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the cross-section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and attic on top are assumed to be non-residential, these are completely different calculations and dimensions.

If a second floor is being built, the ceiling is sheathed with the subfloor of the second floor. This will make it easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first one. The only reason is that all the lumber has to be hauled to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation concerns weight roofing: it must be lightweight material, the load from which they can withstand wooden beams and floors.

To fix the rafters in a given position before the sheathing was filled, temporary jibs were used

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Insulation

A frame house can be insulated with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the pushing force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the frame posts. The mats, of course, are additionally fixed special fasteners, but it’s more convenient to work with than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected on all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

On the street side, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown through, does not allow moisture in liquid and gaseous state, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only Finishing work. Actually, that's it, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detailing of some processes is far from complete, but general sequence you have the assemblies. Perhaps another video from a professional carpenter who has been building for decades will help you frame houses(see below).

Video instructions for installing frame houses

These are three videos of excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each of them lasts more than an hour. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to this instructions self-construction possible without any questions: all stages of building a frame house and small details are commented on and explained, down to what nails, what length, how many pieces in what increments, should be hammered into each node. The main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them are demonstrated. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clearer to you.

The first part is the lower trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the design and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is building the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether to build a frame house, it’s probably because you’ve heard that this is a bad technology, that it doesn’t work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are built from dry wood, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill with almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. That’s why the houses twist and turn, they become cold.

But if you are planning to build a house with your own hands, what will stop you from using dry wood? Kiln drying is expensive, the difference per cubic meter is very significant - almost twice. But by stacking the wood on the site in ventilated piles, it can be dried to the same 20-22% within a year. You decide for yourself whether or not to impregnate it with bioprotection before drying. Dry wood does not rot or be damaged by fungi, but it is advisable to impregnate it with bioprotection against insects.

An example of this opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

This method allows you to solve housing problems in rural areas and quickly build up dacha areas.

In addition, the frame walls of these houses make your home reliable, warm, environmentally friendly and quiet.

The first timber frame houses

This type of construction has gained particular popularity and fame due to the possibility of using more economical materials.

When erecting and installing frame walls, several times less wood is required than for cobblestone and log walls. Thanks to this feature, their weight is reduced and the house can be installed on.

For the inside of the block, a special polyurethane is used, or. Thermal insulation characteristics these materials are very high. This ensures less heat loss when heating the room. All layers can be joined into a monolithic panel using polyurethane glue. Holes for doors or windows in such blocks can be cut at the construction site.

According to their own design features frame walls made of small-sized panels are no different from the features of standard wall partitions. The only difference is that during installation, the panels are laid in one piece, and their joints are reinforced with a special silicone compound. To firmly grasp and fix individual parts and elements with the lower beam, the fastening is fixed strictly along the seams and the inside of the assembled frame wall.

Installation of frame house walls

Installing a wall alone

The installation and installation of frame walls begins with the bottom frame. Wooden beams are also prepared for this. The lower trim is laid in a strictly horizontal position. All splice connections at joints and corners can be made half-timber if necessary. During installation, be sure to check the squareness of all constructed contours through measurements of the lower diagonals. Fasten the bottom trim with twists to the anchors embedded in the foundation.

Install the racks with a minimum step of 600 mm.

The distance between the racks for and doors can be determined by the size of the box of these elements. If necessary, their number is increased by adding window sill and overhead racks.

For strength and rigidity load-bearing structure in places where the wall partition is adjacent to the frame house, a special additional support is installed, which is reinforced with struts.

An upper frame is placed on top of the racks, connecting them together in half a tree. When building up the harness, its fastening is carried out strictly above the racks. The resulting frame wall structure, as a rule, is sheathed with wood or other selected materials with obligatory laying and.

In our country, until recently, houses were mainly built from log house, brick or concrete, but now the time has come for new technologies, and frame houses have appeared in this segment. They are very popular due to their unique combination High Quality and small financial costs. But the main thing is the opportunity to make a durable frame house with your own hands without the use of special equipment. Therefore, we have made detailed step-by-step instructions for you.

The guide itself consists of 7 steps:

• choosing a location for a home;
• design;
• foundation installation;
• frame assembly;
• walling;
• thermal insulation;
• roofing.

The construction of a frame house has the main advantage over other technologies - the rapid pace of construction without the involvement of special specialists in the work lifting mechanisms. Inexpensive frames are put into operation in one season, but such speed in no way worsens the comfort and quality of living - these parameters are no worse than those of wooden and stone houses.

Choosing a location on the site

In accordance with the urban planning standards of the Russian Federation, your residential building must be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the official border of the site. Also, in most cases, local regulations regulate a 5-meter setback from the red line of the street to the house.

It should be noted that all frames belong to IV and V degrees of fire resistance, therefore, in accordance with fire safety standards the distance from your building to the house on the neighboring plot should be at least 10 meters.

The remaining requirements for placing the house are presented in this image:

We are drawing up a project

According to the Federal Law, the developer is obliged to be guided by the project created by professional design organizations. The documentation drawn up must also be agreed upon by authorized officials of various services, where changes and/or additions may be made.

In fact, local authorities only require a preliminary design, including a general plan diagram, plans, section, facades and basic technical and economic indicators. Such a project costs no more than 10,000 rubles, and it can be ordered after construction and before commissioning.

However, for your convenience and saving on rework, we recommend choosing a suitable standard project or creating an individual one, taking into account personal preferences and wishes. In both cases, it is necessary to mark out all communications and include them in the plan engineering systems.

Example of a typical preliminary design

Please note that standard projects Traditionally they are cheaper, and individual ones allow you to realize your own ideas. Custom drawings from project documentation are drawn up taking into account the reference to the topography and other features of the site - only such scrupulousness can guarantee the long-term operation of the home without problems and major repairs.

Engineering systems

To build a frame house, it is necessary to include all utility networks in the project. They are laid in strict sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. In case of use concrete base All technological holes for communication systems must be made at the time of pouring, so that after hardening you do not have to deal with complex drilling of holes.

The electrical system consists of a distribution board, electrical wiring, outlets and grounding. The distance between points for sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with covers are installed near water sources. Ventilation system includes air ducts with holes. Is it worth reminding that from correct wiring pipes and wires depend on the ease of access and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and sewerage?

Foundation installation

Construction technology involves the use of, or. The strength of the base is increased with the help of reinforcement and monolithic piping. It is possible to make a high-quality foundation only after conducting a geological analysis of the soil.

In most cases, a simpler foundation is sufficient for a frame house, which can easily withstand light loads. The most appropriate one is . Such a foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the cost construction estimate on average by 15-20%.

When monolithic foundation it is necessary to dig a trench, compact the soil and pour a sand cushion. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make formwork and install reinforcement bars. The solution must be compacted during the pouring process. Half a meter long vertical studs are placed in the liquid concrete of the base every 2 m - the lower frame frame will be attached to them. The surface of the resulting grillage must be leveled with cement mortar.

Bottom harness

Seven days after the work of pouring concrete, a lower frame made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 15x15 cm is laid over the entire surface of the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing felt are laid along the bottom, which plays the role of .

The timber can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation studs. If bolts are used, then technological holes up to 10 cm deep must be drilled for them.

Floors

When all the wooden beams are laid and connected to each other and to the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor joists are placed (board 50x150 mm). The upper part of the logs is aligned horizontally, and boards are nailed along the bottom - they will serve as the basis for constructing the subfloor. Membrane insulation is laid on the resulting board base (prevents the insulation from weathering and getting wet, and does not prevent water vapor from escaping outside). In the gaps between the lags you need to press in insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) and cover it with a vapor barrier. Lays on top edged board(40x15 mm).

Creating a frame

From the very name of the technology it is clear that the main element of such a structure is the frame, and it is on it that the entire structure is supported. The frame consists of vertical posts fixed with crossbars and horizontal strapping. As before, here the entire construction process is carried out in stages.

Wood is used as a material. It is recommended to choose coniferous timber with a low degree of humidity, ideally chamber drying. The height of the racks must correspond to a similar parameter of the room. The racks are connected with nails 10 cm long. After adjusting the elements, there should be no gaps.

Depending on the load that will affect the load-bearing supports, as well as based on the size of the insulation and cladding material, the distance between the posts is planned. The universal section of the racks is 150x50 mm; double beams 150x50 mm are placed in the openings. The most popular pitch is 600 mm (allows you to install the insulation “in tension” to densely fill the wall). To connect the racks with the lower frame, temporary braces are used, which is why the structure acquires the necessary rigidity.

Layout of wall corners

The installation of the upper trim is carried out after installing all the racks. Fixation occurs using the same grooves that fastened the lower beam. The upper fastening to the racks is carried out with two nails, which must penetrate the material at least 10 cm. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by permanent bevels installed to replace the dismantled temporary ones. Read more about this in the article ““. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device of the most important.

We insulate the walls

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with imitation timber, wooden clapboard, plastic, as the owner of the house wishes. Insulation is best done using mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly, durable and does not burn, which makes frames even more profitable and in demand.

Scheme proper insulation frame walls

The material is pressed into all the cracks between the beams to remove voids. A hydro- and windproof membrane, which is attached over the insulation to the studs, will help protect the tree from moisture, and only then the slatted sheathing for the ventilated façade, which will be hidden under the outer cladding, is installed. On the inside, OSB or gypsum fiber boards mounted on top of a vapor barrier are suitable for wall cladding.

Constructing a ceiling

The ceiling is attached to the floor beams, which in turn are fixed with nails or steel brackets on the top frame beam. Where installed interior partitions, you need to install support beams, in the place of which a wooden ceiling panel is nailed.

Roof

Before you start work, determine the degree of slope, the number of slopes, the type of roofing cladding, the design rafter system.

Roof with complex shape It looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement, so it is not cheap. Most often found, allowing or attic space. Here it is necessary to install only one ridge; there are no valleys at all, which eliminates the accumulation of sediments and leaks. To prevent snow from staying on the roof, plan a slope of more than 28º, but not more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.

The cross-section of the rafters is determined according to the thickness of the material placed between them. insulation material. It is best to take a board with a caliber of 150x50mm and a length of 6 m. Two boards need to be knocked down in the shape of the letter L, and then they are lifted up and the angle is determined, making sure that the overhangs extend beyond the level of the wall by 30-50 cm. Now the boards can be assembled using a crossbar, and we get something like rafters.

The upper trim acts as a Mauerlat here. Based on the manufactured sample, rafters are created for the entire roof, not forgetting about a pitch of 600 mm. The rafters on the ridge are installed on the pediment and the installation of the remaining elements continues along them. The type of roofing material determines what type of sheathing will be used.

Roofing material

Step-by-step instruction ends at the stage of installing the roof cladding. You can choose , or . All of these materials are easy to work with, affordable, and look decent. After facing works All that remains is to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for draining precipitation outside the site.

Now you can imagine the whole process of building a frame house with your own hands , so that the structure is durable and warm. If you do not ignore the construction rules and assembly technology, you will become the proud owner own home, which one can only dream of.

Filimonov Evgeniy

Reading time: 10 minutes

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How is a frame house constructed? Stages of work. Step-by-step construction instructions. Myths of framers. Types of materials for interior and exterior decoration.

Before creating a house made of wood, you need to know in detail the structure of a frame house. What are the features of creating a foundation? How a frame house is built. What does the construction of frame walls look like? Recommendations for frame construction. What are the advantages and disadvantages of frame walls. Features of construction frame structures. How to work on corners and top floors.

How finishing is carried out. How do they happen? interior work in a frame house. Features of the external cladding. Wall thickness depending on the region. How is waterproofing and vapor barrier performed? What does vinyl mean? metal siding. Nuances of lining and blockhouse. When using brick, tile and plaster. The nuances of using artificial stone and thermal panels.

Frame construction technology using Canadian and Finnish technology. Step-by-step instructions for construction frame structure. Myths about frame buildings.

Frame house construction notable for the fact that houses are built very quickly.

They can be placed on almost any ground due to their light weight. There is an opinion that frame houses are temporary houses. However, it is not. If a building is built according to all the rules, it will last for quite a long time, and it will be comfortable to live in.

It’s not difficult to build such a house even by yourself. But for this you need to know the structure of a frame house.

Like every house, a frame house also begins with a foundation. Since the weight of the building is small, they usually build a shallow strip foundation, which is inexpensive and easy to make.

To build the foundation, a site is marked in the place where the house will stand. The site is being leveled. Marking is done using rope and pegs.

A strip foundation is called a strip foundation because it is a concrete strip that runs under each wall of the future house.

If the soil is good, then it is enough to deepen the strip foundation by 80 cm - 1 meter. But still, it is recommended to deepen the foundation to the depth of soil freezing. For Russia, middle zone, this is 1.5 meters.

Using the completed markings, trenches are dug to the required depth. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the trench, and sand is placed on top of it. This pillow is carefully compacted. The formwork is then constructed from boards or other suitable material. Reinforcement is installed inside the formwork.

For reinforcement, use a metal rod 10-12 mm thick. The rod is knitted using knitting wire so that the reinforcement is a lattice with a pitch of 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to use welding to attach the rod. The formwork is raised above the ground by 50 cm. This is how much the foundation will rise above ground level.
When the reinforcement is completed, you need to prepare a concrete mixture. Since the foundation needs to be poured at one time, it is best to use a concrete mixer to prepare the concrete. The proportions of cement, sand and crushed stone are 1/3/5.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Ask a question to an expert

In order for the concrete to be of high quality, washed sand with medium or large grains and cement of a grade not lower than M200 are used.

After concrete mixture ends up in the formwork, it is compacted with a vibrator so that the solution is evenly distributed between the reinforcement bars. If you don’t have a vibrator, you can use an ordinary bayonet shovel.

Now the foundation should gain strength. This is also a very important stage of construction, since the strength of the entire structure depends on the strength of the foundation.

The structure dries within 4-6 weeks. During drying, in hot weather, it is recommended to cover the concrete strip with rags soaked in water. When it rains, cover with plastic.

After the foundation tape has dried and gained strength, you can begin building the house.

Construction of a frame house

The house is called frame because it is wooden frame, installed on the foundation. This frame is insulated and sheathed finishing materials. Outside and inside.

It is quite simple to build a frame house with your own hands. Below, around the perimeter of the house, a square wooden beam. This is the so-called lower crown. It is placed on the foundation strip, on which two layers of roofing felt are previously laid for waterproofing.

Then, the frame racks are attached to the beam using a tongue-and-groove connection.

Use for fastening metal parts Not recommended.

Racks are made of timber and boards. The timber, which is installed vertically, gives the house additional strength.

But sometimes they make do with boards alone. The dimensions of the board depend on the planned thickness of the walls.

It is recommended to install racks of boards at a distance of approximately 60 cm from each other. The same distance is subsequently left between the roof rafters. Triangles of rigidity are made in the corners, which also give additional strength to the structure.
After the racks are installed, the upper crown of timber is mounted on top. The ceiling will be attached to the upper crown, and the floor boards will be attached to the lower one.

Floor installation in a frame house

Before laying the floor, a layer of expanded clay is poured between the foundation strips.

The floor can be made of wood or concrete. In the case of a concrete floor, a layer of concrete is simply poured onto the expanded clay, a cement screed is made, and linoleum, carpet, or some other covering is installed on top.

To make a wooden floor, you need to lay joists on the bottom crown, and lay floorboards on the joists.

It is recommended to do additional insulation from sheets of any suitable insulation. You can use both polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Penoflex or some other material with good thermal insulation characteristics.

In the case of a wooden floor, the insulation is placed between the expanded clay and the floor boards.

If the floor is cement, then the insulation can be installed both under the cement screed and above it, under the floor covering. Of course, in the second case, the insulation sheets must be quite rigid.

Wall insulation

The manufactured frame of the house will be clad inside and out. Thermal insulation is attached between the cladding. This is the construction of the walls of a frame house.

Moreover, we must not forget that with inside foil polyethylene is installed at home for vapor barrier. It is mounted between the insulation and inner surface finishing.

On the outside, reliable waterproofing must be made, which would protect the insulation from atmospheric precipitation and moisture. This may be roofing felt, or other suitable material. There should also be a vapor barrier, just like on the inside.

If used as insulation mineral wool, then these must be dense slabs. Otherwise, the vata will sink down under its own weight.

The choice of insulation must be approached responsibly. After all, the house should be warm.

External cladding

Many materials can be used as exterior cladding. For example, it could be lining or tongue and groove boards. The boards should be tongue-and-groove so that there are no gaps between them. You can also use ordinary boards, but they need to be mounted with an overlap, in a herringbone pattern. You can also use facing bricks. You can clad the outside of the house OSB boards and cover it with siding.

Interior decoration

For interior finishing, plasterboard is most often used. This material is easy to install, and all defects that may arise during the installation process can be easily puttied. A smooth surface is formed, suitable for both wallpapering and painting. However, for interior decoration You can use both chipboard and plywood. It's just preferable to use drywall.

Roof installation

First, the so-called “black ceiling” is made. To do this, a flooring made from various waste wood products is attached to the upper crown. A layer of expanded clay is poured on top of the flooring.

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The rafters are attached to the top beam. The distance between the rafters is also 60 cm. This gives even greater integrity to the entire frame.

Roofing material is attached to the rafters. His choice depends only on the desire of the owner and the budget. This short description roof installations for a frame house.

Construction of a frame house is a popular technology for winter or summer country houses. This technology is distinguished by its simplicity, budget cost, efficiency, comparative ease of assembly, and the ability to quickly complete all work. It is important to design and calculate the labor intensity of the work, the amount of materials, taking into account the climate and individual budget.

The basis of a frame house is the walls; their correct design is one of the factors for successful construction. Frame houses can be built with your own hands.

Whether you do the work yourself or prefer to turn to contractors, knowledge about the correct structure of the walls of a frame house will be useful, it will allow you to calculate the cost of work, determine the quantity necessary materials and choose the best option.

Do-it-yourself construction requires a lot of free time: people with full-time jobs will not be able to quickly cope with the volume of work.

A frame house is based on a rigid structure in which vertical posts are connected by horizontal lintels.

Construction of the wall of a frame house (pie)

Insulation is placed in the free cells, then the surface of the walls is finished from the inside and outside. The frame is installed directly on the foundation, but during construction you must first assemble each wall as a separate frame on a level area next to the foundation. The walls of a frame house form a kind of “pie”, assembled according to strict rules.

• Calculation of wall thickness is carried out taking into account the climate and purpose of the building;
• When choosing insulation, it is important to achieve good sound insulation, as well as thermal insulation, while calculating its quantity and optimal cost;
• It is important to protect the insulation from moisture and other adverse effects using special films;
• The correct technology for laying insulation will prevent heat loss; saving energy also requires calculation and planning.

Builders are looking to reduce heating costs by better insulation building. Calculating the dimensions of the walls and selecting insulation is the key to success.

Calculation of wall sizes and selection of insulation

To do this, the frame racks must be made of timber with a thickness of 200 mm. A cross frame made from bars measuring 50x50 mm is also allowed.

The calculation of wall thickness depends on the climate: in warm areas, with hot summers and mild winters, the wall thickness can be reduced.

Calculation of indicators for a country house that is visited only in summer time, will be simple: a wall thickness of 40 mm is sufficient, and for the frame, an edged board about 15 cm wide, called a “magpie,” is suitable.

Foam plastic, mineral wool, as well as ecowool and polyurethane are used as insulation materials. Polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest materials, but it is fragile, insufficient in terms of sound insulation, flammable, and can be damaged by rodents. Mineral wool is popular in modern practice.

Insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool and polyurethane foam are quite expensive, but have better protective properties; their use will allow you not to worry about vapor barriers, but during the construction process they will require special equipment for their application.

Since the surface of a frame house, as a rule, for rigidity and strength, is covered with sheets of plywood or chipboard during construction, the insulation can be attached directly to these sheets. Great importance has a calculation of the amount of materials: it is recommended to use a double layer of insulation. Mineral wool sheets and sheathing material are separated windproof film. The insulation is attached special glue, stronger fixation can be achieved using disc dowels.

For external protection of the wall “pie”, a vapor barrier inside the building and its waterproofing from the outside are necessary.

Vapor barrier inside the building and its waterproofing on the outside

Vapor barrier is necessary to avoid condensation of wet vapors inside the walls and their entry into the insulation. If moisture penetrates, mineral wool will significantly lose its thermal insulation qualities, and large energy costs will be required for additional heating of the structure. The film for waterproofing is laid outside, on the side of the facade, this allows you to protect the wall structure from wind and precipitation. For vapor barrier, foil materials are used, for example, penofol, for waterproofing you will need glassine, it is possible to use membrane boards. Such boards are overlapped during construction using a construction stapler, and the nodes must be carefully taped at the joints with special tape.

Vinyl siding

Vinyl siding is used in country houses.

Vinyl siding

Its cost is inexpensive, it is not susceptible to rotting or exposure to rodents, it is easy to carry out work and convenient for subsequent use (easy to clean, looks neat), and has a long service life. Often used for cladding country houses or if the developer wishes to reduce the cost of finishing.

Metal siding

Metal siding is also used for facade cladding; it is durable, resistant to impacts and has an attractive design - creating the image of a fairy-tale hut.

Metal siding

Galvanized steel with polymer coating does not rust, tolerates temperature changes well.

Cladding with clapboard has a number of disadvantages characteristic of wooden materials - a tendency to dry out (swell) and be affected by bark beetles. Apply modern impregnations, reducing the effects of harmful effects and the fire hazard of the structure, making possible fires self-extinguishing.

Wooden materials for façade cladding include a blockhouse that imitates timber, which is used for both interior decoration and exterior cladding. This material is stronger than rounded logs, it is attractive in design, but over time it still changes its shape, since it is a modified lining.

The sheathing should not be attached directly to the frame during construction.

Block house installation diagram

For summer houses such a solution is possible, but if you need to spend time in such a house in winter period even a few days, steam condensates will begin to destroy the wood and moisten the insulation. To build a winter house, pay attention to the good ventilation of the facade: for this, bars 30-40 mm thick are nailed over the entire surface, then work on wall cladding is carried out. It is important to calculate the load on the foundation and accurately fill it, then air circulation in the gaps for ventilation will allow condensation to erode naturally.

Brick

It is possible to cover the facade with facing bricks, but careful calculation of the significant load on the foundation and walls in this case is necessary so that the structures can withstand its weight.

Scheme of façade cladding with facing bricks

This material protects well from harmful influences, but the cost of such cladding is among the most expensive.

Tile

Tile cladding facade is reliable and has a long service life, but tiles cannot be attached to wooden elements with glue.

Tiled facade cladding

The technology of attaching tiles using self-tapping screws is expensive and labor-intensive; if you choose this material, an accurate calculation will be required: it is necessary to determine both the amount of materials and the cost of the work.

Plaster

Plastering walls is also not very popular in Russia due to its fragility.

Plastering walls

It is recommended to use three layers of plaster technology. For one-layer plaster, it is best to use a composition of Portland cement, white cement (lime) and sand. To prevent cracks from occurring, it is better to add fiberglass.

Fake diamond

Facade cladding artificial stone It has an attractive design; this material is quite light in weight and convenient during installation, and does not create a significant load on the foundation.

Facade cladding with artificial stone

A house lined with artificial stone looks very attractive.

Thermal panels

Facade cladding wooden houses thermal panels are recommended in regions where the temperature in winter drops below - 25 degrees.

Cladding the facade of wooden houses with thermal panels

For interior decoration, lining, wood-fiber boards are used, plasterboard is possible, but it does not tolerate temperatures below zero.

Railcar finishing

It cannot be used for finishing work on summer houses whose heating is not planned in winter.

As seen, frame technology construction optimally combines quality and cost. The construction of the walls of a frame house is excellent for high-quality insulation of a living space.

It is necessary to carefully design a frame house, perform accurate calculations of work for the durability and reliability of the house.

This technology is simple and will ensure low cost.

Video

In this video you can learn a lot of interesting and new things about how to avoid mistakes and build correct frame walls.