The stove is the pride of any bath attendant. And a correctly installed heater is the subject of tireless admiration for the skills of the master and the directness of his hands. The place for the stove must be prepared from the very moment the walls are laid and appropriate changes must be made at each subsequent stage, so let’s look at the process in more detail.
What will we bet on?
The key is proper preparation places to install the stove, or, to be more precise, the base on the floor. The metal stove itself weighs about a hundredweight; add to this a load of 200-300 kg of stones; sometimes the weight is further increased by the water heating tank.
Due to its significant mass, the oven should be placed on a durable and always hard surface. It can be conditionally combustible: there are no high temperatures in this zone, with the exception of a small area in front of the firebox, where burning coals can wake up.
In any of the options, it is better to prepare the place for installing the furnace at the stage of laying the foundation. This can be a cabinet made of brick or a block of reinforced concrete, cast along with the base of the building. This area is finished together with the main floor, but the presence of a massive block in the substrate will not allow the screed to be pushed through.
The requirement is not so critical for light electric heaters with a load of 60-80 kg of stones. They can even be installed on a wooden floor in dry saunas, but it would not be amiss to place a piece of 3-4 mm thick sheet steel under the stove. When installing on a wooden floor, it is important to pay attention to the shape of the stove legs. If it is supported pointwise, there is a high probability that the wooden floor will be pressed through and the stove will sag unevenly.
Fireproof lining
Not all modern heaters come with a heat-reflecting screen. Since the upper part of the stove can heat up to 200-250 °C, installing it closer than 35 cm from the walls cannot be considered safe. In any case, from intense thermal radiation wood trim will dry out a lot and lose durability.
Other methods for constructing a heat-reflecting screen include lining with soapstone tiles, natural stone volcanic rocks or magnesite slabs. The final choice is best made based on the availability of materials and their decorative value for your steam room. It is also not forbidden to use sheet steel coated with heat-resistant non-toxic paint and a basalt cardboard backing up to 2 cm thick. Obviously, the fireproof lining of the furnace should be carried out before covering the walls with wood.
The edges of the screen should be brought under the rectangular side and plastered with cement mortar so that the wood trim can be decorated with a gate with end strip. Ultimately, the lining should cover the walls 35 cm on either side of the stove body. The height of the lining on top is at least a meter, but usually it is extended all the way to the ceiling.
Fire door passage
A remote firebox for a sauna stove is an ideal option. When burning, oxygen does not leak from the steam room and warm air, no wood dust and debris, more free space. This installation is the most difficult to do on your own.
There is an opinion that a bathhouse is built around a stove; at least it is strongly recommended to install a partition between the dressing room and the steam room only after final installation heaters. It is noteworthy that before the construction of this wall, a heat-reflecting screen should already be laid out to the height of the stove.
At a distance of 50 cm from the walls of the firebox neck, two 100x60 cm beams are installed vertically; they are tightly adjacent to the furnace lining. The beams are aligned in the plane of the partition and secured with steel angles to the floor and ceiling. From these beams in both directions it is arranged frame wall with a 100 mm layer of insulation, the wooden lining is sewn on a horizontal sheathing of 20 mm planks.
The space between the beams is filled with hollow clay bricks; the neck of the firebox must be carefully lined on both sides. The binder for masonry is a mixture of cement, sand and fireclay clay in a ratio of 1:2:5. The mixture of clay and sand is soaked for a day, cement is added immediately before use. Please note that both sides of the wall will be visible, so it is recommended to carry out the masonry using steel rods 10 mm thick, and carefully trim the extensions with a grinder.
The fight for aesthetics and safety
There should be a stove in the steam room in the right way ennobled. We are also talking about stoves located far from the walls without a protective lining; the whole point of the subsequent work is to correctly fit the metal body into the surroundings of the steam room and at the same time prevent accidental contact with heated surfaces.
The first option is the simplest and best suited for ovens with convection chambers. The arrangement consists of installing a parapet 15-20 cm high above the heater. The fence is installed 20 cm from the body if there is a standard heat shield and 35 cm without it. The parapet itself consists of 20x80 mm pickets exposed with drying oil, possibly with milling of the edges and shaped trimming of the heads. The planks are nailed with an indentation of 25-30 mm for sufficient ventilation. The basis of the fence is a frame assembled from 40x40 mm timber: pillars at the corners and two horizontal crossbars in each span.
If the heater does not have convection, it is very common practice to completely cover it with bricks. To do this, a reflective screen or a thin chrome-plated body is dismantled; these parts can be used in cutting the ceiling for a chimney. All that remains - the firebox and frame with a container for stones - is lined first with half fireclay bricks on pure fireclay clay, and then with a quarter of red clay brick on cement mortar. The top outer row is laid out in half a brick with a fold inward. With such a device, the heating inertia increases: the steam room will heat up a little longer, but the temperature at different combustion intensities will become approximately the same.
We install a chimney
To remove combustion products, it is recommended to use sandwich-type chimney pipes. In this case, it is better to arrange an area 1-1.5 meters from the stove uninsulated steel pipe: it is easier for her to make turns, and the possibility of installing a tank or coil remains possible.
For the passage, two cuttings are performed: in the ceiling and roof; in the absence of an attic, they are combined. An opening in the ceiling is cut 25 cm from the chimney insulation casing, the space is filled with basalt wool.
The passage through the roof is made with a standard roof cut with a tin flange. This will require cutting wooden parts battens 30 cm from the pipe and strengthen rafter system. When assembling chimney elements, it is not recommended to seal the sockets; they are already compressed when heated.
If the moment is missed: stove in an operating bathhouse
In conclusion, we will talk about installing a stove in an already built bathhouse with interior decoration or replacing the heater. You know the basic installation requirements; all that remains is to think about the possibility of making changes to the design of the wall and floor.
In general, stoves up to 120 kg can be installed on wooden floors on joists, cement screed- up to 200 kg. For more massive heaters, you will need to cut out a fragment of the floor and remove the top layer of soil. Next, a brick pedestal is laid 40-50 mm above the floor level. The junction areas of the floor are covered with a wooden plinth.
To remove the firebox, you will need to cut a meter-long opening in the wall and separate it with two racks of wooden beam. To install a fire-resistant lining, several vertical strips of wooden sheathing should be removed; this is exactly the case when it is easier to lay the masonry up to the ceiling.
Proper installation of a stove in a bath requires compliance with the rules fire safety. Existing PPB standards stipulate the need for fire breaks, insulation of walls adjacent to the body and chimney pipe, as well as a non-combustible base for installation.
The best location of the stove is determined - safe and at the same time ensuring uniform heating of the steam room.
Where to put the stove in the bathhouse
Choose a place to stay sauna stove several factors influence:- Type of construction - installation of an iron sauna stove with an external firebox in a bathhouse somewhat limits the possibility of choosing a place for placement. Modern models equipped with a telescopic firebox. If necessary, you can increase the length of the firebox by adjusting the size to the thickness of the partition.
- Operating principle - with rare exceptions, sauna stove equipment uses the principle air heating premises. To ensure uniform heating of the steam room, the stove is installed in a place with minimal interference in the path of convection currents.
- Warm-up efficiency– it is recommended that the combustion chamber be as close to the base of the floor as possible. This placement will ensure improved air flow and uniform heating of the steam room.
Some owners install a stove, deepening it by 10-15 cm, which allows increasing heat transfer and heating temperature of the floor covering. The solution is effective. But, installing the stove significantly below floor level, although theoretically possible, is inconvenient. You will have to make a pit of sufficient size to make it possible to put firewood into the firebox from it.
If you correctly install the stove in a bathhouse with a firebox from the dressing room, it will be possible to simultaneously heat two adjacent rooms. For safety, the tunnel under the elongated combustion channel is made 5-10 cm larger in size. The gaps are filled with non-flammable insulation. After which they are closed with special linings that come with the furnace equipment.
A detailed diagram of the installation of the stove in a bathhouse with a firebox from the dressing room is described in the operating instructions.
Fire safety when installing a sauna stove
Rules fire safety during installation iron stove the bathhouse stipulates requirements related to mandatory compliance with fire breaks and measures aimed at preventing emergency situations.The body and chimney pipe become very hot during combustion. Over time, wood, under constant thermal stress, oxidizes, which causes ignition, even without the presence of an open fire. For this reason, fire safety requirements when installing a stove in bath room, require compliance with three important rules:
- Provide safe distances between the stove body and walls made of flammable materials.
- Install the stove on a non-combustible base.
- Use fire-retardant material to reduce the thermal load on walls located near highly heated parts of the stove.
Use fire retardant material to insulate the stove and chimneys, required condition for safe operation.
Distance from the stove to the wall of the bathhouse
The PPB specifies fire-safe distances - gaps that prevent a possible fire. The standards state:- A gap of 110–125 cm is left between the stove body and the wall made of flammable material. After thermal insulation, the distance is reduced to 50–80 cm.
- In the direction away from the opening door of the combustion chamber, the minimum distance is 120 cm.
Furnaces with a remote tunnel into an adjacent room are physically impossible to remove to a sufficient distance. Therefore, the partition between the steam room and the dressing room is made of non-flammable material: brick or gypsum fiber boards.
How to install a stove on a wooden floor in a bathhouse
The stove in the bathhouse is installed from the floor, at a level as close as possible to the base, or 10-15 cm below it. It is easier to comply with this standard if the foundation and installation site are prepared in advance.In the case of concrete floors lined with ceramic tiles, the stove is installed without the need for additional protection of the base. Wooden floors will need to be protected from fire: 
Metal stoves weigh up to 80 kg. The rules for installing a metal sauna stove on a wooden floor in a bathhouse do not indicate the need for a full foundation for installation. The standards are aimed at protecting wooden floors from fire.
How to insulate the walls around the stove
Thermal insulation of the stove from a wooden wall is a mandatory standard. The surface of flammable materials is protected in several ways:- Brickwork.
- Ceramic tiles - you can line the walls around the stove by covering them (in the case of wooden walls) with pre-gypsum fiber board (GVL).
- Thermal insulation material - for protection, special heat-resistant boards for wall cladding or basalt wool are used. The material is fixed to the surface using hardware. The surface is covered with galvanized or stainless steel.
Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse
There are basic installation recommendations chimney. Temperature flue gases reaches 450-550°C. Regular metal pipe heats up red hot.Safety standards stipulate that it is not enough just to isolate the stove from a wooden wall; it is necessary to protect the surface in places of contact with the chimney.
Fireproof cutting is required where the chimney passes through the floor slabs and roof.
Choosing a chimney type
For connecting a sauna stove and stainless steel. Each option has its own advantages and purpose:- Ceramic chimney is used for internal connection. The pipe passes through the floor slab and roof. The advantage of ceramics is durability, resistance to aggressive and acidic environments, and the almost complete absence of condensation.
- Sandwich chimney - provides both internal and outer gasket. In the second case, the pipe is led out into the street through the side wall.
The sandwich chimney and ceramics are assembled like a construction set. Self-installation not complicated. To facilitate installation, manufacturers provide step by step instructions With detailed description works
All component materials used when installing chimneys must comply with existing SNiP and PPB. Not recommended for use
Throughout the entire passage chimney, adjacent walls protect against thermal load. The right technology wall insulation includes:
- Treating a wooden surface with antipyrine.
- Laying thermal insulation.
- Heat-resistant cladding finishing materials for cladding heated walls.
Compliance with fire regulations protects the bathhouse from fire and makes visiting it safe and comfortable.
Popularity of private small baths is growing daily. Today, anyone who has even superficial skills in handling tools and experience in construction can build their own bathhouse. Here, as with the construction of any other object, it is important to take all precautions. And protection from the effects of the stove is no exception.
The heat from the stove, spreading throughout the room, harms the upholstery of rooms and furniture. Of course, in large baths this problem does not arise - it is enough to maintain a minimum distance from the stove to the walls and to benches, tables and other objects. In rooms where space is limited, it is necessary to use additional protection– special partitions for the furnace.
Features and Functions
The protective partition in the bathhouse near the stove is a universal item. Modern manufacturers There are many options for barrier screens available for similar equipment. New products will suit any needs and different budgets.
The partition plays an important role because it performs the following functions:
- eliminates the possibility of burns;
- used as additional room decor;
- Using a protective partition, you can control the flow of heat not only into the steam room, but throughout the entire house.
Brick baths are in great demand. This material has a fairly low thermal conductivity, so brick walls heat up much more slowly. But such a property does not brick walls in the bathhouse are completely safe - here it is also necessary to protect the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove. Wood is used as the most popular material for building a bathhouse. Under influence high temperature the risk of fire increases.
Use of barrier screens in wooden baths becomes a requirement.
What materials can be used to create a protective partition?
The enclosure of the stove in the bathhouse is designed to reduce the effects of heat. Brick or metal are used to make it. Each material has its own advantages and is used depending on specific conditions.
Metal partitions
Steel or cast iron are more often used. To provide maximum effect The device must be installed at a distance of 2 cm from the stove. Manufacturers of furnaces and boilers often complete their products with protective partitions. Depending on the purpose, they can be lateral or frontal.
The use of heat-resistant screens allows you to reduce the surface temperature of the stove to 100°C, due to which the zone of intense heat exposure is reduced by 50 cm. Install it yourself metal partition won't be difficult.
Brick screens
The brick partition is a kind of casing. It completely covers metal surfaces to protect the walls from heat. In some cases, brick screens are used as partitions between walls.
Characteristics of a brick partition
To install the screen, just take an ordinary red brick and lay it with mortar. The thickness is half a brick. In some cases, you can use a quarter brick.
Instructions for creating different types of protection from oven heat
A fence for a stove in a steam room made of a sheet of metal will be the most effective and simple solution for a home bath. It is better to use a polished panel, since a smooth, shiny surface is much more reflective. This property also means that heat will not accumulate in the metal, but will spread throughout the room.
The metal fence for the stove in the steam room must be attached to the brickwork or directly to the floor using special fasteners or components. The process will not take much time, but you will completely protect your vacation.
It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the metal that will allow air to circulate freely.
The brick partition is laid in half a brick. Here it is also necessary to leave a gap between the floor and the first row. Most often it is made in the form of a door. With its help you can regulate the degree of heat accumulation in the oven.
Start laying from the bottom row, and gradually rise to the height of the stove. The level of the screen should be 15–20 cm higher than the stove. Many experts recommend making such a partition all the way to the ceiling.
Protective non-combustible wall coverings
The wooden walls of the bathhouse are constantly exposed to high temperatures, which in a short period of time leads to their complete wear. You can sheathe them thermal insulation materials. They are also divided by type and effectiveness.
Reflective trims
Widely popular metal finish along with thermal insulation. First, thermal insulation sheathing is attached to the wooden walls, and then the partition is completed with a sheet of metal. Between them you can place an additional layer of insulation made of basalt wool, basalt cardboard, asbestos board, mineralite, and so on.
Fire resistant structures
A special heat-resistant cladding is used as protection for the walls. To do this, the fire-resistant cladding is covered with heat-resistant tiles. Non-flammable glue is used for its installation. The following facing materials have good fire-resistant qualities:
- terracotta tiles;
- tiles;
- porcelain stoneware;
- soapstone and so on.
In addition, fire-resistant plasterboard, mineralite, glass-magnesium sheet and other fire-resistant boards for a bathhouse can be used as fire-resistant protection for walls. It must be taken into account that for each type it is necessary to provide ventilation in the form of a gap at the bottom. Practice shows that the use of cladding as heat-resistant protection for walls in a bathhouse has almost the same thermal characteristics as reflective cladding. The only drawback– a cost that is several times higher than standard options.
Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove requires a careful approach and selection of the right materials. Modern manufacturers already offer ready-made solutions in the form of metal protective screens that are easy to install and use. Brickwork also has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is also popular.
A metal stove is an excellent option for a sauna. But one of the most basic advantages of this stove - the ability to heat up quickly - simultaneously turns into a significant drawback. Its metal body emits harsh infrared radiation, which can cause heat stroke, and accidental contact can cause burns. This is doubly dangerous if you take children with you to the bathhouse.
Brick screen for a metal stove: for what, from what and how
To make bathing procedures safe and comfortable, it is necessary to install a protective screen - a fence - around the stove body. Protective fences for sauna stoves must be made of fire-resistant and safe materials that do not emit harmful chemicals when heated. Of course, brick is best suited for these purposes.
You can easily make a brick fence yourself. It can be laid in a continuous layer as in this photo, but this option significantly increases the required time to warm up the steam room and, accordingly, the amount of fuel consumed. This option is considered more acceptable for the atmosphere of a Russian steam room - you can achieve a gentle temperature (up to 70 o C), and if the heater in the stove is closed, then the steam should be “light”. But for a sauna, this option is somewhat inconvenient from the point of view that you will actually have to spend more time and firewood preparing the steam room, but being in a room where the stove heats and does not burn even at high temperatures is much easier and more pleasant than where The oven is not protected by a screen.
Therefore, some bath attendants, based on operating experience, recommend laying bricks in a quarter, half, or in a checkerboard pattern, leaving “windows” between the bricks as shown in these photos. This method of laying the protective screen will provide both safety and will not have a significant effect on reducing the heat level in the steam room. It should be taken into account that the distance from the stove to the brick fence is not critical and can be 3–5 cm.
The brick heats up slowly and gradually accumulates heat, but then transfers it to the steam room for a long time, acting as an additional thermal battery. The brick enclosure of the stove converts intense heat into lighter heat, creating comfort in the bathhouse.
For laying a brick protective fence, it is better to use clay-cement mixtures with a cement content of 5–10% - such masonry seams will not be washed away by water and will not crack from high temperatures.
Wooden safety fence
You can prevent accidental touching of the oven by using wooden fence for the oven. This type of protection is equally applicable in both the bathhouse and the sauna. It is important to follow fire safety precautions and use suitable materials, for example, abashi wood, which is characterized by high moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity and heat capacity: its surface is always warm to the touch, not hot. But this exotic wood is very expensive. Of our domestic species, alder and linden are perfect for these purposes. It is undesirable to use pine: it contains a large amount of resins, which, when heated, can cause burns.
A wooden fence for a stove in a bathhouse or sauna can be purchased either ready-made or built with your own hands. We present you some options for installing it. If the steam room will be visited by small children, then create a fence in the form decorative fence, leaving very small distances between the boards so that even the smallest cannot stick his hand in and get burned. If the steam room is visited exclusively by adults, you can make a barrier of a simpler design - several longitudinal and transverse guides, as in this photo.
The distance from the stove to the wooden fence is usually indicated in the factory instructions for the stove. According to fire safety standards the distance from the stove to combustible materials must be at least 500 mm.
Important! Be careful when using wooden fencing. If darkening of color or other signs of heating appear, move the fence a little further.
Screens for protecting combustible (wooden) walls
It is necessary to protect not only people from the harsh radiation of a metal stove, but also the walls located near it, especially if they are wooden. For this, heat-resistant screens are most often used. Most often, screens are metal. Moreover, it is desirable that the metal be polished: in this case, heat rays are reflected back into the room. But metal screens cannot be attached directly to wooden wall: they have a fairly high thermal conductivity and effectively transfer heat to the walls, but we don’t need this. Therefore, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation under the sheet of metal. Most often used mineral or basalt wool small thickness (1-2 cm is enough), cardboard made of the same materials; earlier they could use asbestos sheet, but today they have come to the conclusion that it is harmful. Glass wool was also previously popular: it is an excellent heat insulator, but it is difficult to work with - protective suits and gloves are required, and a respirator is required.
Another way to attach a protective metal screen is with a ventilated gap of 2-3cm. A frame made of a material that tolerates high temperatures but has poor thermal conductivity is stuffed onto the wall. You can use small pieces of plastic or metal-plastic pipes for hot water: screw the pipe sections with self-tapping screws to a wooden wall (vertically), and then a metal sheet. In this case, the bottom edge of the sheet should be placed a few centimeters above the floor so that air flow moves between the metal and the wall, cooling both the sheet and the wall.
Another type of protective screen is brick. A second wall is laid in the floor or a quarter of a brick. Its height is usually recommended by stove manufacturers, but it is usually 40-50 cm higher than the top panel of the stove. Can protect a wooden wall ceramic tile. It looks great, is durable and easy to care for.
Often, manufacturers of metal furnaces offer ready-made screens to protect walls. These are structures made of two sheets of metal with an air gap between them. They are covered with heat-resistant paint, often with a decorative design applied to them, so that such a screen not only serves as protection for the wall, but is also a decorative element.
It can be mounted on a wall or in a place specially reserved for it (taken into account when planning and building a steam room). You cannot paint metal screens made by yourself: you need a special heat-resistant paint, which is applied in a factory using the hot spray method.
Proper installation of a stove in a bathhouse requires laying out its main elements at the stage of planning and designing the steam room of the bathhouse. It is very difficult to build a full-fledged brick stove with a heater in any other way, and the result does not always meet expectations. Another thing is installing a metal stove in a bathhouse. This stove design is lighter and simpler; it can be installed in almost any steam room.
Does it make sense to install a metal stove?
It's no secret that the vast majority of home baths are heated with metal wood-burning or electric stoves. Professionally made stove good quality lined with a brick screen has a number of advantages over traditional way construction:
- This design in a bathhouse is installed faster, easier, and most importantly - much cheaper. In addition, for a small-sized steel box there are many more options how to install the stove so that it is comfortable to use at any time of the year;
- To install a stove, you do not need to dismantle half of the bathhouse and spend a lot of money on rebuilding the floor and ceiling;
- The sealed steel or cast iron shell of the stove makes using the sauna much safer, since the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning due to a cracked firebox wall is practically eliminated.
For your information! According to statistics, two thirds of fires in private households occur in bathhouses with wood stoves made of stone.
Installing a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands is no more difficult than any other heating system. Even if there is no experience, but there is a desire, most of the work can be done, guided by the recommendations and instructions of the manufacturer. You can install a homemade wood-burning stove in a bathhouse in the same way, but only on condition that the firebox and all the main components have passed the fire test and been heated full cycle at least 20 times.
Where and how to install a metal stove in a bathhouse
There are no particular problems in installing a stove with your own hands; it is enough to ensure that several conditions are met during installation:
- Provide maximum fire protection and precautions;
- Create optimal conditions for normal combustion of firewood in any weather and wind direction;
- Provide availability supply and exhaust ventilation, guaranteeing protection against the most dangerous enemy in the bathhouse - carbon monoxide;
- Install the stove so that the heat generated is used in the sauna in the most efficient way.
Advice! Before looking for a way to install a stove, you will need to solve two problems. ?First, find the optimal location of the chimney for the stove. The design of the chimney can greatly affect the operation of the stove itself and its efficiency. Besides, steel chimney heats up to a very high temperature and often causes a fire in the bathhouse. Secondly, it is necessary to determine how it is most convenient to service the stove, where it is most convenient to install it, and, accordingly, come up with lining the steel body with a brick screen.
The bodies of steel and cast iron sauna stoves tend to heat up to a very high temperature, at which the concentration of air oxygen in the steam room atmosphere quickly drops. Therefore, it is imperative to install a screen around any metal firebox, preferably a brick one. Moreover, ordinary red brick, unlike metal screens, always plays the role of a heat accumulator, this solution allows you to level out the heat output and not have to run to the firebox every five minutes to load firewood, which is not very convenient, especially if the loading opening is located outside or in the utility room of the bathhouse.
The most rational solution would be to install the stove in the wall of the steam room so that the body with the screen and the heater are inside the steam room of the bath, and the “face” with the doors of the combustion chamber and ash pan opens into the dressing room or onto the street.
The last option is very convenient for summer country baths, especially if the bathhouse design is combined with summer kitchen or a terrace.
Selection of base for installing the furnace
After you have previously selected a place in the bathhouse where it is most convenient to install and maintain the stove, you need to make a small estimate of the weight of the future stove and determine the type of base or foundation for the building.
Existing SNiP standards set a limit on the weight of the structure; a stove with a heat-insulating layer, foundation, brick screen and chimney can be installed directly on reinforced wooden joists provided that the total weight does not exceed 750 kg. The weight of the future sauna stove must be checked by calculation.
The weight of the steel or cast iron furnace body can be taken from the product passport. Typical steel structure a stove with a remote firebox and a mesh for stones weighs about one hundred kilograms. A cast iron stove for a bath, like the one shown in the photo, weighs about 200 kg.
In addition, on steel and cast iron options the furnace is supposed to install up to 100 kg of stones to produce steam. As a result, the total weight furnace design for a bathhouse it can easily reach 300 kg.
The chimney pipe is made of thin sheet steel; its weight together with the hot water tank rarely exceeds 30 kg.
The weight of a brick screen depends on its size. For laying half a brick on 1m2 of surface, you will need to use 53 pieces of solid single brick. Accordingly, for a screen with a total area of 2 m2, 106 pieces will be used. With one stone weighing 3.5 kg, the mass of the screen is 321 kg. In total, the total weight of the stove that is supposed to be installed in the bathhouse is 550-650 kg. This is less than the ceiling of 750 kg, but even with such a mass it is not always possible to install the stove on logs.
First of all, it is necessary to check the cross-sectional size of the joists and the method of their installation. To install a sauna stove weighing 650 kg on the floor, you will need to distribute the load across at least two beams with a cross-section of 70x100 mm. Otherwise, you will have to make a real foundation.
How to install a stove in a bathhouse according to science
After completing the calculations and selecting a location for the stove, the further installation procedure will include the following operations:
- Preparing the base area for the stove in the bathhouse;
- Arrangement of an opening in the wall, thermal insulation of the body and fire protection of the walls;
- At the final stage, you will need to install the chimney pipe.
Experts advise making a full-fledged foundation for the stove in two cases, if the construction of the bathhouse is not completed at the time of installation, and it is technically possible to painlessly cast the foundation. In the second case, the stove can be installed on the floor of the bathhouse if the safety margin is at least 1.5 units.
Construction of a base for installing a furnace
The easiest way is to install the housing on a wooden bath floor. The vast majority of steel and cast iron sauna stoves have special supports that raise the firebox body above the floor level. To ensure the stability of the stove, a durable heat-protective cake will need to be installed in the base of the structure. First of all hammered nails and floorboards we find the location of the joists in the bathhouse.
Next, we mark the site relative to the joist beams so that it is possible to install the stove with an even distribution of the load on the supports. Using an electric planer, we remove a 3-4 mm part of the surface of the floorboard to remove protective covering and make it as rough as possible. We impregnate the wood with an antiseptic and fire retardant, which increases the wood's resistance to high temperatures.
At the next stage, the area on the floor must be covered with a coating of white clay, cement and liquid glass. Without waiting for the applied mixture to harden, place a thick sheet of metal on top of the coating. Next a layer is laid mineral thermal insulation and a layer of brick. For the bond, use ordinary masonry mortar for fireplaces from a ready-made cement-sand mixture. You can install a sauna stove.
To install a full-fledged foundation, you will need to remove the boards and dig a pit for casting a base of brick and concrete. We make a hole for the foundation in the form of a square, with a side 10-15 cm larger than the maximum size of the oven with a screen. We dig a pit to a depth of 50-60 cm. Next, we pour and tamp a sand cushion at least 150 mm high, and cover it with a layer of rubble stone with crushed stone. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to waterproof the walls and pits from roofing material. Fill the last layer in the form concrete slab 20 cm thick, of which at least 15 cm must be above ground level.
A couple of hours after pouring, it is necessary to walk along the horizontal surface of the foundation in order to level the supporting plane with the horizon.
Installation of the stove body and chimney pipe
The place where it is planned to install the furnace body must be coordinated with the direction and location of the chimney pipes. An opening 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the firebox and ash pan is cut out in the wall of the bathhouse using a hammer drill or electric saw. The surface of the wall, located at a short distance from the furnace body, will need to be covered with mineral bulk thermal insulation and a sheet of metal installed. The remaining surface adjacent to the body is finished with heat-resistant tiles, as in the diagram.
If the walls of the bathhouse are made of timber, then the adjoining area will need to be laid out from red brick on cement masonry mortar, without clay, and only after that stick on the heat-protective tiles.
The stove can be installed and secured to the base using spring loops screwed to the anchors.
A layer of thermal insulation must be laid at the base of the flood area and steel sheet 2-3 mm thick. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the dimensions of the firebox by 30 cm in each direction.
Ideally, the first section of the chimney should be made without turns or bends. The first one and a half meters of pipe length are made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Since it gets very hot, all fastenings to the walls will need to be made of a sliding type, so that the expanding pipe does not tear off the fastenings. It is advisable to install a housing with gaskets made of heat-insulating material, and cover the chimney itself with a protective casing.
The rest of the chimney can be manufactured and installed using sandwich technology with basalt wool insulation.
The most convenient would be a remote chimney design, which can be installed on almost any wall of the bathhouse, even on a surface sheathed wooden clapboard. But for this you will need to specifically select the configuration and location of the stove in the bathhouse. A hole is punched in the wall and a special steel adapter with thermal insulation around the perimeter of the device is punched.
To exhaust the chimney through the roof into ceiling and installation windows are marked and cut out in the roof along a plumb line, as in the photo.
After installing the adapters, the space between the pipe is covered with sheet asbestos and filled with mineral wool. On the roof of the bathhouse, the chimney pipe is covered with a protective metal cover, which is attached to the sheathing through a layer of heat-resistant rubber.
Conclusion
In general, installing a stove in a bathhouse takes two to three working days, but it is recommended to postpone the test for at least a week so that all masonry materials of the foundation and brick screen gain the required level of strength. It is recommended that the first launches of a stove with a heater mesh filled with stones be carried out no earlier than two weeks later, when the foundation gives the first necessary settlement.
