It is known that the main tool needed to set up a blacksmith shop is an anvil. It can be useful not only to professional blacksmiths, but also to ordinary blacksmithing enthusiasts, people who love to create. The anvil looks simple and rather primitive, but it costs a lot. Not all blacksmith lovers decide to buy it for occasional use, so in such a situation a homemade anvil can help out.
To obtain a normal width, the rail is turned upside down. The face of the anvil is the sole of the rail. The author made a horn at one end.
At the base of the horn we drill 2 holes F18 and F29. (F18 was made with carbide drills, F29 with burn-through welding to a square).
In order to attach the rail to the stump, a 16-gauge channel was taken. Almost completely cut off one at a time from the shelves, iron is welded onto the plane of the channels to gain a thickness of 25 mm - this is done to compress the neck of the rails.
The structure is tightened with bolts from M22 sleepers. The heads are cut off and new nuts are welded on.
The piece of rail is specially selected with holes. The anvil is attached to the stump with screws using Ø12 mm plumbing screws. True, as the author claims, they are slowly being pulled out of the stump. 
The author also made a certain instrument. Considers the lack of a round horn to be a disadvantage. The edges do not feel very hard, but the face is very hard - the chisel dulls on it.
The author also made a final forge and vice. Well, I bought a factory anvil. 
“From the master class presented by the author, you will learn how to make an excellent anvil for your workshop from a piece of 30 cm rails. At the very least, every self-respecting craftsman is simply obliged to have a small anvil in his workshop for processing metal with cold or hot forging. Because today the topic of blacksmithing and the manufacture of all kinds of forged objects and tools is becoming very popular, which is quite well appreciated among lovers of handmade work.
The anvil can of course be purchased at hardware store, but the price probably won’t please you)) So, there is a great option to make it yourself from a small piece of rail, which will require a gas cutter and an angle grinder. Initially, the contour is marked, and then the final shape of the anvil is cut out with a cutter, and the cutting areas are polished with a grinder. You can also burn holes in the lower part for subsequent attachment of the base to the block.
So, let's take a closer look at the whole process.
Materials
- rail
- block of wood
- wood screws
- graver
- washer
Tools
- cutting torch
- grinder angle grinder
- drill
- wrench
- bus saw
- hammer
The process of creating an anvil from a rail.
An anvil is a supporting forging tool that is designed for hot and cold forging metal by plastic deformation. The anvil is the main and main tool in blacksmithing; it has a large mass and is fixed motionless on a base in the form of a wooden block.
First of all, it is necessary to consider the presented drawings of the anvil. 
Well, we’ve completely figured out the purpose, and now let’s move on directly to the process of making the anvil itself. The author takes a blank 30 cm long. 
And with the help of a gas cutter he betrays her the required form.
Please note that there is also a hole in the middle. The nose part is sharpened in the form of a horn. 
Using a grinder, the master grinds the surface and removes metal deposits and rust. 
This is exactly what happens. 
Working surface It turned out perfectly even and smooth that you can see your reflection. 
The anvil is ready, now it needs to be installed stationary on the stump and secured with bolts. 
The plane is attached to the block with 3 bolts on each side. 
This anvil also has design feature, and this is the presence of a resonator that dampens the ringing from a hammer hitting an anvil, and it is also made of rails and screwed to a block of wood in a vertical position. 
That's all, the anvil made from rails is ready for its subsequent use. Now the author can forge small metal products in his garage, and simply straighten metal when cold or straighten nails; in general, a very necessary tool for a craftsman. If you liked the material, then we invite you to join our group.
Such a simple and simple tool at first glance, like an anvil, is a mandatory attribute of any blacksmith. Without it, it is impossible to carry out even the most simple actions related to .
At the same time, the purchase of this device is not mandatory, because any craftsman can make an anvil with his own hands.
Anvils are the most important tool that allows you to perform various blacksmithing works related to hot forging of metal. This item workshop is quite specific, but it is simply irreplaceable in the case of professional production of forged products.
Such a tool may vary depending on the type of problem being solved. It can have a variety of structural elements, sizes and shapes. There are mainly two types of forging anvils: one-horned and two-horned.
The first version of the device is in greatest demand. Horn is used in the formation of bends metal products in figured forging.
What does the anvil consist of?
The sides allow you to make bends at right angles. The surface of the device itself is smooth and even, and also ground and hardened. This is the working part.
It contains two holes, square and round shape, used in case of execution additional operations with products and when maintaining tools.
Based on weight, anvils are divided into small, medium and large. The best option is the heaviest models weighing 95 kg or more. Such devices allow you to work with large workpieces.
At home, such a tool is not one of the most necessary. However, its presence allows you to easily align various products, such as nails, wire or sheet metal.
Naturally, use for domestic purposes does not require the mandatory purchase of such a tool. However, if necessary, a homemade anvil can be made. It will easily allow you to perform all the simplest functions that are required of it.
Of course, to produce a high-quality figured product at homemade version extremely difficult. In this case, it is better to pay attention to professional models. But for all other needs, hand tool will be the best choice.
Anvil elements
A blacksmith's anvil is a mandatory attribute of his workshop. With its help, a whole series of technological operations with metal. This tool is used for forging, giving metal the required shape, hardening, etc.
This item is made of durable alloy steel, and its weight can exceed 300 kilograms, especially if we're talking about about a stationary blacksmith anvil.
It must be stable and durable, as it bears significant loads. on the anvil results in a smooth, clear sound. A dull ringing indicates the presence of cracks or voids in the instrument.
As noted earlier, there are one-horned and two-horned models. Why does the anvil have this shape? The point is this: the horn allows you to make bends with the necessary curvature, and the flat surface serves to do the main work.
Anvil mounting diagram.
The main elements of the device include:
- shank;
- recess for forming holes;
- holes for installing tools and other forging equipment on the anvil;
- face;
- shoe;
- platform for cutting metal.
The protrusion on the side of the instrument is called a horn. Its shape varies depending on its purpose. In one-horned models it is cone-shaped. Used in forming metal bends and rolling out rounded parts.
The second horn is used in bending products at angles less than normal and is made in the shape of a truncated cone.
A face is a flat surface. It is on it that the main operations are performed.
The classic type of anvil always has holes. One of them is square - used as a tool holder, for example, a hammer. It is usually located at the end of the device. The second is round, fixes the wire when curling it, and is located near the horn.
The anvil should absorb the impulse from a blow to the front part. For these purposes, the device is installed on a durable wooden or sand cushion.
It is important that the face is positioned strictly horizontally. This will allow you to do the work with the highest quality.
Many people are interested in the question of how to set the anvil in height. The height of the anvil from the floor is correct if the hammer strikes the casing horizontally. In addition, it is important that the blacksmith does not have to make additional efforts to adjust the blow, bend down or lift the tool too high.
Types and types of anvils
Types of anvils, their shape and weight can vary significantly.
They are divided into several categories according to the above criteria, namely:
- hornless – massive instruments with a large weight, the value of which is in the range of 96 – 210 kg;
- one-horned - have only one cone-shaped horn, their weight varies from 70 to 210 kg;
- two-horned anvil - a device weighing from 100 to 270 kg;
- single-horned cantilever;
- shperaks are mini anvils weighing up to thirty kilograms.
The choice of anvil is made based on the work that is planned to be performed. Heavier models are perfect for working with large and massive workpieces. Simple, lighter options with one horn a good choice in working with small-sized structures.
Lightweight models are suitable for minor works Houses. If you need to make any homemade product, there is no better option.
An important criterion is the type of work performed. Here you should decide which option is better: a two-horned or one-horned model. In addition, anvils may have additional elements, for example, a vice that allows you to do work alone.
It is worth paying attention to the presence of holes used to place hammers and sledgehammers.
Shperaks, small in size and weight, are widely used in jewelry. In this area, products do not require serious impact processing, so they need an appropriate tool.
Drawing of an anvil for making it yourself.
Quite often, devices for performing jewelry work are made according to individual order. They have various functional elements necessary to solve certain problems.
Sometimes one anvil may not be enough. In large workshops, it is advisable to have two options for devices: one stationary and the other portable.
Don't forget about correct installation. The quality of work directly depends on this. Despite everything this device It is quite heavy and should be installed with due care.
Falling and tipping over are common problems caused by improper installation. In addition, the stand must fulfill its direct functions: in addition to securely fixing the device, it must be able to absorb hammer blows.
A wooden block is the most commonly used type of stand. Its diameter usually ranges from 500 to 600 mm. Hard woods are used. These include oak, birch, ash, etc.
The installation height is determined by the height of the master. To wooden stand did not create additional unnecessary vibrations; it was buried in a hole more than half a meter deep. The bottom of the pit is compacted with a sand lining.
It is important that the chair is installed horizontally. This parameter can be easily checked using a level.
If buying an anvil is not affordable, then it can be replaced homemade device. It can be made, for example, from a rail, channel or I-beam.
Such devices made with my own hands, will last for decades. However, you should not think that they can fully replace the real one, professional tool. Hand anvils will not produce the same quality work as production models.
In this case, it is important to understand: the factory version produced using casting technology will significantly better than homemade ones. Its design contains all the necessary components with a hardened surface.
In addition, in this model the horn has the correct shape, necessary, for example, in skillful figured forging. The factory model will last quite a long time.
Making an anvil with your own hands
The design of the anvil is quite simple. Its manufacture by hand does not require drawings, special skills or special tools and equipment. By by and large the device is monolithic device with a special shape and planes that meet certain requirements.
Currently available in specialty stores forging equipment presented quite widely. There you can choose any tool, including an anvil, from a huge assortment of varieties. So does it make sense to make this device yourself?
When answering this question, you need to decide for what tasks the tool will be used. IN professional production, definitely, you should choose a factory model. Its advantages include compliance with all necessary standards, as well as manufacturing features using casting technology.
Such an instrument is highly hard, has regularly shaped horns and perfectly straight side edges.
However, the price for good model quite high, especially in the case of large-sized options. However, there is no alternative to such devices; making them by hand is definitely not possible, because the weight of a forge anvil can reach 300 kilograms.
But in homework A small, lightweight anvil is perfect. You can just do it yourself. The described option is unlikely to have a negative impact on the quality of work.
One of the arguments in favor handmade fixture is the fact that high demands are placed on anvils. For example, the edges of the device must be strictly straight and undeformed.
During constant use of the tool, quite often the edges become uneven. Of course, everything depends on the type of material used by the master in his work. Nevertheless, this defect must be eliminated. There are two ways to correct such a defect: buy a new device or repair the old one.
Naturally, repairs will cost less than purchase. It should be noted that restoring a hand-made anvil is a simpler task. So this is a great opportunity to save money once again.
Now we can safely move on to the question of how to make an anvil for forging metal? Bring any standard sizes or the drawings are meaningless. There are a large number of different options for this equipment. Everyone can choose what will suit best way.
The main goal is to understand and master manufacturing technology. The master will decide all other points himself, especially since on the Internet you can easily find various photographs of anvils and use them as a template when creating the most optimal option such a forging device.
First of all, the issue related to installation should be resolved. When stationary option, as noted earlier, a solid stump should be used. But in the case of a portable model, a metal frame welded from corners is used.
Do not forget that it needs to be resistant to serious shock loads. This problem is solved by installing additional ribs in the frame, providing increased rigidity.
Although, of course, there are other methods to strengthen the structure. It all depends on the ingenuity of the master and his preferences.
If the base for the anvil is a stump, then it should be tightened with metal rings. Simply burying part of the base of a tree in the ground is not the most good idea. Even if properly treated with antiseptics, it will begin to deteriorate over time.
Suitable for use as a base metal barrel, placed in a hole. Sand should first be poured into the barrel. The amount of sand depends on the preference of the blacksmith. As for the wood, it is selected from strong species. Which has already been mentioned earlier.
Installation of the device on the base is implemented in several ways. The most reliable option is fastening using metal brackets. They must be secured between the side surfaces of the hemp and the tool.
A similar installation method can be implemented using fittings. It must be bent into an “G” shape and welded to the base. Then, when the device is installed on the stump, the reinforcement is driven into its sides. As a result, any possibility of the device falling on your feet is eliminated.
This type of fastening will be very effective. The forging device will be securely connected to the base and will not lose grip even after a long period of use.
The second option is simpler. It consists in drilling holes in the sole. Bolts are subsequently inserted into them and screwed directly into the stump. The disadvantage of this method is the loosening of the tool after impacts. To avoid having to tighten the bolts from time to time, it is better to use staples.
According to industrial technology Forging anvils are made of 35L alloy steel. At home, an anvil is usually made from a rail or channel. One of the sides of the selected material will be used as a base.
Homemade anvils - 5 photos.
A handmade rail anvil will last a very long time. It is perfect for almost any household needs or a small workshop.
It is worth noting one nuance; making such a forging tool from a channel is not the best the best option. On the one hand, it is simpler and more convenient to process. However, its strength characteristics are not high. As a result, the service life of the device will be short.
You can make a horn from an elongated part of the rail, treating it accordingly. However, you will have to spend not only a lot of effort, but also Supplies, For example, angle grinder disks. Much easier this problem can be solved by welding this part to a ready-made tool. Don't forget about the insert that is welded.
Thus, it can be noted that the most the best material manufacturing is the rail. Characteristics of this material meet all the requirements, and it is quite cheap, perhaps the master already has it on his farm.
Replacement for a full-fledged factory device manual option will not, but in case of small volumes of work it will become excellent choice. It is important that during manufacturing no special skills, specialized tools or any drawings are needed.
Materials you will need:
- a piece of rail up to three hundred millimeters long;
- profile pipe;
- stump.
The necessary tools are a grinder and welding, depending on the type of structure.
Finally, after all the manufacturing work has been completed, the instrument can be given a nice final look through painting.
As you can see, to cope with the manufacture of such a simple, but very important tool within the power of every person. This does not require the use of specialized equipment and no special skills are required. In addition, the materials used to create such a device are not so difficult to obtain.
The only problem may be the processing of the rail, in particular its grinding. The material from which it is made is highly durable, so you will have to spend a lot of disks on processing.
However, the result is worth it, because the end result is a reliable and durable anvil made by yourself. She, without any doubt, can become the pride of the workshop.
Bottom line
The blacksmith's anvil is one of the most important and indispensable tools in the workshop of a true professional. It allows you to forge metal, give it the required shape, perform hardening and other technological operations.
Nevertheless, for home needs it is not necessary to buy an expensive factory model, because you can make it from a rail with your own hands.
It is known that the main tool needed to set up a blacksmith shop is an anvil. It can be useful not only to professional blacksmiths, but also to ordinary blacksmithing enthusiasts, people who love to create. The anvil looks simple and rather primitive, but it costs a lot. Not all blacksmith lovers decide to buy it for occasional use, so in such a situation a homemade anvil can help out.
What materials are needed?
The workpiece is made from crane (preferably brand KR 120 or KR 140) or railway rails. It is inexpensive, but is massive enough to make a high-quality and stable instrument.
If the size of the product is not critical, because... small-sized workpieces will be processed, then a metal channel (180x70 mm) can be used for the anvil, but mechanical strength the final product will be much inferior to the version made from rails.
Since the anvil requires a stable base, the following is used under it:
- frame welded from metal corner,
- wooden stump (the most affordable and cheap option),
- box with sand (allows you to remove vibrations when the hammer hits the workpiece).
The second option is considered more successful if the tool is installed somewhere in the yard.
Manufacturing stages
First you need to select the required section of the rail; its base will become the main part of the future base for forging; this place will take on the bulk of the workload.
The choice of the side of the rail for the anvil surface depends on the future work. If you do not need a very wide surface, then a narrow top of the rail will do, but at the same time the anvil itself will be very stable and durable, because The rail head (wide lower part) is subjected to special heat treatment at the factory.
Some craftsmen make one more detail - a horn, it gives the anvil good performance characteristics, but requires a lot of time and effort to produce. To create a horn, the sole of the rail is sharpened on one side using a grinder (a 125 mm grinder and a 125x6 mm circle are suitable) and a file. The end of the horn is not made sharp, but slightly blunt.
After shaping the anvil, the surface is ground using a grinder disc (grit size 40). If you scrape the surface with a regular grinder disc before grinding, then the process will go much faster and easier.
Anvil installation
The next stage of creation is installation of the product on a solid base. To install this element, you need a solid wooden block or stump that is resistant to shock and vibration.
In order to attach the finished product to the stump, you will need a steel channel (the wider, the better). The result is a fairly strong, stable structure. The channel is attached using screws, the diameter of which is 12-14 mm and the length is 150 mm. Screws are taken from stock by length, because during the forging process impacts can cause them to be pulled out of the machine.
For products small sizes and weight, it is possible to weld the base from a metal corner, an example is shown in the photograph.
Here's how I made a small DIY tabletop anvil for my workshop. Below are drawings and instructions on how to make an anvil.
The homemade anvil was made from a piece of railway track. Without the log base, the anvil weighs about 4.5 kg. I plan to use it for tapping hot and cold parts, installing gaskets, stamping leather, and any other kind of light beating or flattening I may want to do.
Step 1: Find a piece of rail
To make an anvil like mine, you will need a small piece of rail. I got my piece, which is about 23cm long, from a blacksmith who teaches lessons in the area where I live.
Also, you can go to eBay at any time - they usually have ready-made anvils, so you can just buy one of them. However, I prefer to spend a little more time, money and effort making my own things as I really enjoy the process of creating.
So, the first step is to ask, search online as well as your local scrap metal dealer and legally purchase some scrap iron.
Step 2: Required Tools
I used angular grinding machine for cutting and shaping the rail. I have a Makita tool set that was fairly inexpensive when I bought it, but still works great today.
To remove large pieces of material I used a 1mm diameter cutting wheel. I used up two of them during the making process.
For light material removal and general shaping I used a 40 grit disc. I also spent two disks.
To smooth the top of the rail anvil, I used a 40 grit corner/edge sanding and polishing pad, which is not actually tapered (see 2nd photo above). Its flatness is necessary to achieve an acceptably flat surface (this is detailed in step 4).
Other tools and materials used in the project:
- Electric drill with paint and rust removal brush and wire wheel
- Orbital sander with sanding discs 100 - 220 grit
- Wet/dry hand sandpaper 320, 400, 800, 1000 grit
For fun I sanded and polished my little anvil to mirror shine. This was definitely not necessary as it immediately began to show marks upon use. But it was a fun experience and I learned a lot by going through the finishing process.
Step 3: Leveling the Top, Part 1: Removing the Dips
There was some pretty deep rust on the top surface of my rail.
Rails like these tend to be slightly convex across the entire width, and I wanted my little anvil to be flat. However, for this first step we are only concerned with removing rust and any other defects.
I started with a 40 grit disc and carefully removed a small amount of material until all the pits have disappeared.
The trick with this and the next step is to stop early and not end up removing more material than necessary.
Always wear appropriate protective equipment: eye protection, ear protection, lung protection.
Step 4: Leveling the Top, Part 2: Hand Finishing
For this step I switched to a flat sanding disc.
To smooth the top of the rail and remove the fine ripples left from the previous step (as well as any remaining bumps), you need to make smooth, full passes with light and constant pressure so that the sanding disc is perfectly level against the top of the rail.
If you move evenly, you will end up with a very flat and smooth surface. I advise you to try to find a work rhythm that suits you. Each pass must be complete from one end of the rail to the other. However, remember that you are not chamfering the ends of the rails and you don't want any unwanted slopes in the surface.
There is no need to press hard as the weight of the tool is all you need.
To determine the correct speed for each pass, check the resulting swirl marks on the metal. Ideally, you should see a fairly narrow, mechanical-looking swirl pattern.
Step 5: Making the Horn
I wanted mine table anvil there was a horn that would allow basic curves to be formed.
I outlined the shape I wanted and used a 1mm cutting wheel on the sander to cut the wedge shape as shown in the picture. Each side took about 20 minutes.
Step 6: Shape the Anvil
The size of this notch is determined by the radius of action of the sander. I made two cuts on each side of the rail and even then the full cut could not be completed.
However, the still connected area was small enough that I could knock the piece off with a quick hammer blow (see last photo).
Step 7: Refining the horn, etc.
To refine the shape of the horn and the cutout underneath, I switched back to the 40 grit disc.
I carefully drew lines on the antler with a marker to mark the areas that needed to be removed. They were ground down in sections, similar to how it was done in step 4.
I worked with the shape of the horn until I was happy with it.
Step 8: Remove Rust
Using a wire wheel on a drill I removed all the rust. There are several ways to do this, but I decided to do it quickly using a wire wheel.
Step 9: Sanding
To begin the process of finishing the metal to a shine, I took to the abrasive disc. I used it to remove all the marks left by the sanding discs.
Then I switched to orbital grinding machine, sanding all shiny surfaces, raising the grit from 100 to 220.
Same as sanding wood projects, the goal is to remove all traces of previous graining.
When all you see are new marks from the current grit, it's time to move on to the next one.
For the hard to reach cutout under the horn, I used my variable speed Dremel with small sanding discs. He did a great job, although it was a little tiring. I used about 10 discs of each grit.
Note on orbital sander discs: I started this step using fairly typical aluminum oxide discs. sandpaper(which I've been fine with in all my woodworking projects) but they wore out almost immediately on the metal. Then I switched to Diablo brand wheels, which are made from a “ceramic compound” and the difference was amazing. The discs lasted much longer and were significantly more efficient.
Step 10: Wet Sanding
After all the shiny surfaces were dry sanded to 320, I switched to wet hand sanding using 400, 800, and then 1000 grit.
At this point, the workpiece began to look quite beautiful!
Step 11: Polishing and Waxing
I didn't have any fancy polishing compounds, so I just used what I had. My polish seemed to be working fine as it turned black when I rubbed it in.
After a series of rubbing and polishing I did the same with the paste wax.
Step 12: Notching the Bolts
To be able to secure the anvil, I machined a notch on each side of the bottom plate.
I made the notches using an angle grinder with a 3mm sanding disc. At the same time, for each recess I ground three discs to achieve a recess about 0.6 cm long.
