Many people love grapes, so they start growing them on their own plot. Viticulture is a fascinating business, but it has many of its own rules and nuances. You can’t do without certain knowledge here. One of the first questions that a novice winegrower has concerns the placement of bushes.
How to arrange grapes on your plot
The distance between grape bushes in a row and between rows is significantly influenced by the following factors:
- Soil fertility. On fertile soil, grapes will grow more intensively, so you need to leave a greater distance to the next bush.
- The magnitude of the growth force of bushes. If a vigorous variety is grown, it is also necessary to leave a greater distance between the bushes.
- The nature of the intended grape molding. The future shape in the horizontal direction (its size, number of sleeves and their location) is a significant point in determining the interval between bushes.
- The need to cover the plant for the winter. Covered viticulture requires wide row spacing.
- Trellis design. Single-lane options require less spacing between rows than two-lane options.
A two-strip trellis requires greater spacing between rows than a single-strip
From the above it is clear that the placement of grapes is determined by two parameters - the intervals between the bushes and the row spacing.
Exist general recommendations winegrowers according to the arrangement of plants on the site. It is considered optimal to place rows from north to south or from east to west, but in practice this advice is not always followed; it is often based on the shape of the site, the presence of buildings and other objects on it.
Regarding the layout of the grapes, the recommendations are as follows:
- The row spacing should be greater than or at least equal to the distance between plants in the row.
- For a single-plane trellis, an inter-row distance of up to 2.5 m is sufficient, but not less than 2 m.
- When using two-plane trellises optimal distance between them is at least 2.5–3 m.
- From one bush to another in a row, the distance can vary between 1.5–4 m. The feeding area required for each bush can be taken as a guide. It should be at least 5–6 m2.
Winegrowers who are most scrupulous about the issue of planting schemes can use existing methods for calculating its parameters for production purposes. For example, on 10.1 m you can place 5 rows of grapes, each 9.95 m long, with an interval of 2.4 m between them.
In any case, it should be understood that all theoretical recommendations are a skeleton on which you need to build the muscles of reality. They need to be adapted to specific conditions: the microclimate of the site, the composition of the soil, the grape variety, and the nature of its upcoming formation.
When planting crops on your site, you must not forget about the interests of your neighbors.
Clause 6.7. SNiP 30–02–97*, approved edition dated December 30, 2010 No. 849 “Planning and development of the territory of gardening (dacha) associations of citizens, buildings and structures”, states that the minimum distances to the neighboring site should be for trunks tall trees- 4 m, medium-sized - 2 m, bushes - 1 m.
Building regulationshttps://www.crimea.kp.ru/daily/25887/2848140/
*SNiP - building codes and rules.
Regardless of regulatory laws, the grape trellis should not shade the plants behind the boundary. In addition, the need to use chemicals to treat grapes can provoke conflict. Experienced lovers of viticulture advise not to plant grapes along the northern boundary with neighbors at all, but with a different arrangement of trellises, retreat about 3 m deep into your plot. If the trellis is located perpendicular to the boundary, you should form the outermost bush only inside your territory. With this solution to the issue, neither the vines nor the roots of the grapes will penetrate into the neighbors’ plot.
In areas where it is permissible to grow crops without shelter for the winter, bushes are often planted along the walls of buildings, near gazebos, arches, and pergolas. This landing has its own nuances.
The vineyard should be located near the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day
When planting grapes near the wall of a building or structure, it is placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from the foundation so that the roots of the plant do not destroy it, and the walls do not become damp when watering. Bring the crop to the wall using an inclined trellis. It should not be forgotten, however, that this sun-loving plant, so it should be placed near the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day.
For grape bushes near a gazebo, arch, or pergola, the following are important:
- absence of nearby competing plants - shrubs and trees;
- the location of the grapes outside the shadow of buildings and economic facilities.
If these conditions are met, the grapes will not only grow and develop successfully, but will also produce a good harvest of berries.
Video: grape planting schemes
Table: distance between grapes and objects on the site
Planting scheme depending on variety
One of the decisive points determining the grape planting scheme is the growth vigor of a particular variety:
- vigorous;
- medium height;
- undersized.
For vigorously growing grapes, the shoots of which exceed 2 m, a larger feeding area is required - up to 5–6 m2. Based on this, as well as on the method of further formation of the bush, the distance to the neighboring one is determined. Thus, when forming in one sleeve with a row spacing of 2 m, a distance in a row of 2.5–3 m will be sufficient for vigorous grapes. When forming vines in two arms, when the shoulders of two adjacent bushes go towards each other, the distance between them should be no less 5–6 m.
Gross violation of the growing conditions necessary for grapes leads not only to a decrease in yield, but also to a loss of fruit quality.
Table: nutritional areas for different grape varieties
Greenhouse grapes
In many regions with cold climates and short summers, grapes are grown in greenhouses. Solid experience in such viticulture has already been accumulated. But this method is also used in regions where vines are traditionally grown in open ground, since the greenhouse protects the plant from many adversities - the vagaries of the weather, wasps and other pests, diseases.
Grape bushes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance of 2.5–3 m from each other
In greenhouse conditions, as viticulture practices testify, it is possible even with its small area Plant 3 vines in 6 m2. In this case, the planting scheme is no longer as important as the placement of the grapes. To prevent the plant from getting sunburn, in contact with the walls or roof of the greenhouse, a planting hole or trench for planting several vines is made at a distance of half a meter from the wall, and the top wire of the trellis should be no less than 0.4 m from the roof of the greenhouse. Several grape bushes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance 2.5–3 m from each other.
When growing grapes in a greenhouse, the choice of variety is of particular importance. The plant should not be vigorous, prone to forming a large number of stepsons, and in cold regions it is important that its ripening period is not very long. For example, in the Moscow region the following varieties are recommended for greenhouses:
- Michurinsky;
- Russian Korinka;
- Moscow sustainable;
- Northern early.
In the Urals and to the north, preference should be given to grapes:
- The delight is perfect;
- Black Hamburg;
- Bulgaria is resilient;
- Foster's is white.
Features of planting grapes in different regions
No matter how attractive greenhouse viticulture may be, in a variety of regions, regardless of climate, there are still enthusiasts of growing vines in open ground. At the same time, the scheme and process of planting grapes undergo the most minor changes.
Ural and Siberia
In the Urals and Siberia, summers are short and winters are long and cold. In open ground, grapes grow slowly, so there are recommendations not to prune them for the first year or two so that the vine gains growth. Varieties are selected that are winter-hardy and have a minimum or medium ripening period. Recommended early frost-resistant varieties:
- Li-4;
- Alyoshenkin;
- Violet early;
- In memory of Golikov.
The planting density of the bushes also changes - each is allocated about 1 m2 for nutrition, but the depth of the planting pit increases to 1 m. In the trench, the bushes are placed at a distance of 1 m from each other. Of course, in these regions the grapes are covered for the winter.
In the Urals and Siberia, grapes have to be covered for the winter
Central Russia
In these places, viticulture began to develop relatively recently thanks to the emergence of new varieties bred by breeders. Such grapes have a short period of fruit ripening and manage to produce a harvest in a short summer. Here are the recommended varieties to plant:
- Augustine;
- Donskoy agate;
- Alyoshenkin;
- Alexander;
- In memory of Dombkowska;
- Rusevn;
- Kuibyshev's firstborn;
- Ilya Muromets;
- Lucille.
The following planting scheme is used: in the row between bushes 1–3 m, between rows - 2–3 m. Planting depth - no more than 0.4 m.
Moscow region
This region became a springboard for the movement of grapes to the north. Ultra-, super- and simply early varieties are grown here, otherwise they will not have time to ripen, and have frost resistance down to -35ºC. The depth of the planting hole, depending on the density of the soil, can be from 0.2 to 0.5 m. It is recommended to leave 2 m between bushes, and 3 m between rows.
For many regions
Pink table grapes of the Russian Early variety can be recommended for cultivation from Ukraine to the Urals, Siberia and the Far East. It winters well at temperatures of -23ºС, that is, in more southern regions it can be grown without shelter, and in more northern regions it can be grown under careful shelter. They are planted in planting holes 80x80 cm, leaving 2 m between the bushes.
One of the oldest and most northern grape varieties, Amursky, is unpretentious, frost-resistant and perfectly adapts to growing conditions. You can grow it in any natural area. It can be cultivated as a technical one, then when planting, 0.8 to 1 m is left between seedlings. To obtain table grapes, this distance is increased to 1.5 m. The distance between rows is 2–2.5 m.
The correct grape planting scheme, correlated with all other parameters of vine cultivation, can be the key to successful viticulture, subject to further regular care of the plant in accordance with all the rules of agricultural technology.
If you intend to plant grapes on your own plot, you need to know all the features of this crop and follow the order of work. It's not enough to just choose suitable variety, it is also important to properly care for the vine, taking into account its specifics.
At what specific distance should grapes be planted? How to care for it and which varieties are best to choose? You will find answers to all these questions in this article.
Where to plant
Grapes are a perennial plant, for this reason you need to take great responsibility when choosing a place to plant them. You should definitely take into account the characteristics of the variety you have chosen, otherwise you will have to forget about good harvests.
This culture has an extremely negative attitude towards shaded areas. Therefore, we plant it only on the southern or western side of the dacha. Moreover, it is important that there are no tall plants near this location.
For the most part, all grape varieties love warmth and have a very difficult time surviving sudden temperature changes that are characteristic of many regions of Russia. In this case, the problem is solved by planting grapes near the house. Its walls, heated by the sun, will create a softer microclimate, and the vines will grow better here. In addition, this method will ensure fairly rapid ripening of the berries.
Now there are many different varieties, zoned for each region of Russia. So, in Siberia they grow well:
- Savraska white;
- Klyunevsky;
- Thumbelina;
- Pinocchio;
- Sharov's riddle;
- Siberian cherry.
Ideal for the middle band:
- Agat Donskoy;
- Victoria;
- Delight;
- Diana;
- Pleven is resistant;
- Codrianka;
- Queen of the Vineyards;
- Laura.
For the crop in question, it does not play a special role in what soil it grows. However, in order to get good harvests, you should still choose fertile soil. The only requirement for it: high rockiness. Such soils have excellent drainage properties. This avoids stagnation of moisture, accumulation of lime and salts. All the mentioned factors negatively affect the condition of the vine.
When to plant
It is permissible to plant cuttings in the vineyard both in autumn and spring. In particular, from the end of April to the second ten days of May, one-year-old plants that already have a woody trunk are transferred to the ground. At the very end of spring, it is the turn of still green (in the growing season) grapes.
Autumn planting is done in the same way, but here you will need to meet the period from October to the start of frost. It is also important to protect the sprouts from temperature changes. To do this, the plant is covered with a layer:
- sawdust;
- peat;
- dry pine needles.
Inexperienced summer residents should not immediately acquire big amount plants. At first, choose no more than 3 varieties that differ from each other:
- maturation period;
- taste;
- coloring.
Wait for the first harvest and decide which one feels best specifically on your site and you personally like. True, you will have to be patient - grapes open up all the possibilities only after 5-7 years. In general, it is possible to collect from 3 to 8 kilograms of fruit per year from one vine. Decide for yourself whether you can eat that much.
What distance to leave between bushes
Most common mistake is too dense planting of grapes. As a result, the plant:
- develop poorly;
- get sick more often;
- bring a small harvest.
If a decision is made to plant grapes near the house, then the cuttings are buried approximately 20 centimeters from the blind area or half a meter from the wall, if there is none.
In the vineyard, plants are placed at a distance of 250-300 centimeters. Moreover, the height of the trellis should not be lower than 1.8 meters. This format allows you to organize harvesting with minimal labor costs.
Non-covering varieties must be spaced at least two meters apart. These types of grapes grow very actively, and pretty soon their shoots will fill the entire trellis provided for them to support.
Top dressing
Fertilizers are applied for the first time in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. First of all, it is necessary to use nitrogenous compounds. Their volume is as follows (per square meter):
- ammonium nitrate – up to 50 grams;
- superphosphate – 40;
- potassium – 30.
The second feeding is carried out approximately 14 days before the start of flowering (in middle lane it's the end of May). It should be given as a solution. Apply the same fertilizers as above and in the same quantities. Before adding them to the soil, water it thoroughly but moderately. After drying, the crust needs to be loosened.
Fertilizers are applied the third time when clusters have already formed and the berries have grown to the size of small peas. Any complex composition will do here. Two tablespoons of it are mixed with a bucket of water. Each bush requires up to 3 buckets of solution.
By the time the grapes ripen, they are fed for the 4th time. This helps speed up the process and improve the taste of the fruit. Nitrogenous substances are no longer needed here; it will be enough to use 100 grams of a mixture of potassium and phosphate fertilizers.
Growing grapes for beginning gardeners seems difficult at first, but in fact it is a fascinating and rewarding activity. The main thing is proper care.
What does a novice gardener need to do in order to get a good grape harvest? Let's look at it step by step.
Selecting a grape variety
When choosing a variety, it is important that the characteristics contain the following indicators:
- ripening period
- bunch weight
- berry size and weight
- berry color
- saccharine
- winter hardiness
- disease resistance
- what is the growth force of green shoots during the growing season;
- what is the load on the bush (when pruning, it is taken into account what load this variety can withstand);
- how many eyes the fruiting shoot is cut off, i.e. from which eye does this variety produce a bunch;
- what gender of the flower (male, bisexual, female);
When purchasing a variety, you also need to find out:
a) male - a variety that has a high content of male pollen, but it is bisexual, independent, and a good pollinator of other varieties;
b) bisexual - self-pollinating variety, participates in cross-pollination;
c) female - this variety needs additional pollination by another variety, otherwise many of the berries will not develop or will be seedless.
How many grape bushes should I plant?
So, you have decided to grow grapes in your summer cottage. You don’t know how many bushes are needed for this. If you are still new to grapevines, you should not plant 15 bushes at once. To begin with, select 2-3 varieties, different in taste, color, and early ripening. And when these plants produce a harvest, decide for yourself whether you need more new grapes or not.
Usually only in the seventh year in open ground and in the fifth year in the greenhouse the capabilities of the variety are clearly visible. From one bush you get from 3 to 7-8 kg of berries. More is possible - it all depends on the shape, care and age of the bush.
When to plant?
The best time to plant grapes is spring. If the seedling already has green leaves, plant it in the second half of May; if there are none, at the end of April. It can also be planted in the fall. Then this must be done no later than September 15-20, and the seedlings must be grown in an individual container with soil.
At what distance should I plant grapes?
The mistake of many winegrowers is to thicken the plantings: when the bushes are small, the illusion of empty areas is created.
Bushes near the wall of the house are placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the edge of the blind area or 40-50 cm from the foundation.
If you plant grapes on open place, then the distance between the rows should be 2.5 - 3 m, with a trellis height of no more than 1.8 m. If its height is greater, the distance between the rows should also be greater.
Non-covering varieties are planted at a distance of at least 2 m from each other. They have significant growth force, and the shoots quickly fill the entire area of the trellis.
When to start fertilizing grapes?
First feeding
This feeding is carried out in early spring in order to provide the bushes with nitrogen. Therefore, 40-50 g of ammonium nitrate should be sprinkled per linear meter. It is useful to add 40 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium here.
Second feeding
It is carried out approximately two weeks before flowering (at the end of May), preferably in liquid form.
Flowering coincides with the strong growth of shoots. Therefore, to avoid peas, you need to again add 40-50 g of saltpeter and 50 g each of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Watering is carried out before application and, when the soil dries, it is loosened by 5-10 cm.
Third feeding
It is carried out when the berries have grown to the size of a small pea. Take any complex fertilizer. Dilute in a 10 liter matchbox and add 2-3 buckets of solution to each bush.
Fourth feeding
Usually it is carried out at the beginning of ripening. This way we accelerate the ripening of the crop, improve appearance and the taste of berries. Therefore it is important not to call rapid growth shoots, which means nitrogen is contraindicated. We add 50 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Grapes can be grown easily in a summer cottage; you will see this for yourself if you follow our tips on caring for and shaping grapes.
Amateur viticulture is now gaining quite a lot of momentum. It is difficult to find a gardener or summer resident who does not have at least one grape bush growing on his plot. But over time, everyone tries to expand the range of plants grown and get the maximum yield.
Selection of varieties
If you are just starting to grow grapes, then you should not plant many bushes at once; it is enough to opt for a couple of varieties. It is better to give preference to varieties that differ in color, ripening time and taste. At what distance to plant grapes will depend on the selected variety, since each of them has different requirements and parameters of the bush.
Very important indicators when determining a variety are ripening time, size of bunches and berries, taste, sugar content, color. Characteristics such as winter hardiness and disease resistance are also important.
At what distance grapes are planted, you need to think about it at the moment when you purchase this or that variety. If you have a very small area, you will have to give up heavily climbing and growing varieties. It is better to give preference to more compact specimens.
How to choose the distance between bushes?
At what distance to plant grapes depends on the variety and type of bush formation. When using the technique of single posts or a wire trellis, it is recommended to maintain a distance of 1.5-1.7 meters between rows, and in the row itself 1.2-1.3 meters should be left between plants. However, these recommendations apply primarily to wine varieties. However, now many are interested in the question of at what distance to plant dessert grapes, since they are very popular. For this variety, it is recommended to maintain a distance of 1.4-1.5 meters. But if the bushes are lush or planted on fertile soil, then this distance can be increased to 1.8 meters.
Choosing a distance for non-crop and vigorous growing varieties
Many people are interested in the answer to the question of at what distance to plant grapes of non-crop varieties. After all, it forms quite tall stems. For this case, the distance should be increased to 3.0-3.5 meters in row spacing, and in a row it is better to maintain a distance of 1.4-1.5 meters. When grown on an industrial scale, 2.5-3.4 meters should be left between rows, and 1.2-1.5 meters between bushes within a row.
At what distance should vigorously growing grape varieties be planted? This question interests mainly novice gardeners. In the future, such varieties will form powerful bushes. In this case, it is better to leave approximately 3 meters between the rows, and maintain a distance of 2 meters or a little more between the bushes. Dense planting of grapes is not recommended, since it does not allow the development strong bushes and get a full harvest.
No less important is the question of at what distance are grapes planted from the fence? It is recommended to do this approximately 20-30 cm from the edge of the blind area. You should retreat 40-50 cm from the fence itself.
At what distance should you plant maiden grapes?
Maiden grapes have gained popularity as ornamental plant, which does not require significant maintenance. The main thing is to plant it correctly. In this case, the gaps between the plants themselves should be at least 0.5 meters, and it is best to leave 1 meter.
The distances recommended for placing grapes may vary depending on the size of the site and its shape. Also, high temperature and high air humidity contribute to more intensive growth of the bush, so in such conditions large gaps should be made between them. This rule is also followed for varieties that grow in lush, large bushes.
When planting plants on depleted soil, their growth becomes less intense, so it is not necessary to leave too large distances. However, there is no need to thicken the planting, because subsequently the bush will not be able to fully develop and produce a bountiful harvest.
When choosing a distance for planting grapes, an important role is also played by how you will subsequently form the bush. After all, if the trunks are formed in such a way that the ground part of the vineyard will unfold over a substantial area, then the distance between the plants themselves must be appropriate.
At what distance should grapes be planted from each other?
At what distance from each other should I plant grapes?
Our grapevines are located at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, although they could be planted less often - there is enough land.
A well-known grape breeder in our region advised me to make this distance between the grapes. He has 15 different varieties of grapes and all bear fruit perfectly.
He gave me several varieties, but 2 of them froze due to low soil and dampness.
You can’t plant grapes too close to each other; the roots can rot from being too thick, because the foliage in summer is very thick and does not allow the sun to pass through well.
When planting, leave the distance between vine cuttings at least 2 meters (based on own experience), because you will need to straighten the vine for fruiting along the trellis and it is necessary that it does not intertwine, shading and thickening the ovary on the cluster and the brush itself during its flowering period.
When planting vines in rows, leave a row spacing of 2.5 or more for good ventilation and even distribution of sunlight.
The root of the grape goes deep and from the neck on the vine - along, so when planting a new vine I put on a ring of plastic bottle(very loose!) to the place where the cutting comes out of the ground (3 cm up and 7 cm below the ground). This method will help avoid the appearance of superficial roots, which are completely unnecessary for the grapes, and diseases affect the entire vine through these roots.
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Distance between rows and bushes when planting grapes
To receive bountiful harvest grapes it is necessary to choose the right place for landing. Also, it is very important to maintain a certain distance when planting plant seedlings. The grapes should get the maximum comfortable conditions for rapid growth
and development. Such an event requires careful preparation on the part of the winegrower.
Landing dates
The time to plant grape seedlings is autumn or spring. When planting, seedlings and green vegetative shoots are used, and each of them has its own planting time. For example, if you use seedlings in the spring, then they need to be planted from late April to mid-May. Vegetative shoots Usually planted in the ground from the end of May to June. At this time of year, thanks weather conditions, rooting and survival of grapes is going well.
In the autumn season, planting begins in early October and continues until the onset of frost. The plant is already prepared for winter and rapid growth it was suspended by this time. In autumn, grapes more easily tolerate changes in conditions associated with the composition of the soil and a new location.
However, grapes in autumn at risk of freezing. Due to this, he needs additional care. It is recommended to insulate the seedling immediately after planting in the fall. As soon as the first frosts begin, experienced winegrowers recommend sprinkling the bushes with straw or sawdust. You can also use other heat insulators and cover the vine for the winter with polyethylene and a layer of earth on top.
Planting material is of great importance. The survival rates of seedlings will depend on its quality. They will affect fast and active grape growth. If the plants are weak and sick, then their growth slows down and the level of yield, as well as its timing, decreases.
Planting material
It is very important to choose high-quality planting material. He will be able to settle down well in a new place and grow quickly. Sick and weak plants will not bring anything but problems. They will soon die or develop very slowly. Such seedlings will take a lot of time and effort, and it is unlikely that you will be able to get a grape harvest from them.
Annual cuttings should have white root. An indicator of low survival rate and drying out of the plant is brown or yellow cutting the root system. You definitely need to pay attention when selecting vines for the eyes of a seedling. They must be fresh and healthy. If the eyes fall off when touched, then the plant is unhealthy.
The wood of the seedling itself should secrete sap and be wet. These indicators indicate good survival and vigor of the plant. The base of a strong seedling cut should be bright green.
Healthy and strong seedlings are recommended keep in water for at least 12-24 hours. Before such a procedure, it is necessary to shorten their length, so that there are 3-4 eyes left. After this, you need to cut off the edge of the roots to refresh root system. A quick boost to growth will be given by water to which you add:
Gardeners often use seedlings with green shoots. It is recommended to bury them in the soil to prepare them for exposure to direct sunlight. Cuttings are accustomed to sunlight starting in mid-May. Flowerpots with seedlings are displayed on Fresh air in the shade of trees. Also, they can be placed under a canopy in the shade. Once they've been there for 6 days, they can be moved out into the open sun for about a week. This is very important to do because green shoots can get burned if they are immediately exposed to the sun. This attitude will only slow down their development, and it will not be possible to get a harvest in three years.
When the vine finds itself in cold conditions after comfortable, warm conditions, it reacts negatively to such changes and begins to prepare for winter. The bushes begin to ripen quickly, however, the vine quickly becomes woody. Such conditions will not allow obtaining the expected grape harvest.
Preparing for landing
When planting grapes Be sure to prepare the soil. To do this, dig holes that are larger in size than the root system. The dimensions of the holes should be approximately 80x80x80 cm. A spacious hole will allow the bush to develop normally for several years without adding additional fertilizer from minerals.
If you plant grapes in black soil, then lay out at the bottom of the hole layer of nutrient mixture 25 cm height. To do this, mix soil with humus in equal proportions. The layer is placed on the bottom and compacted. Then a supplement of minerals is placed on top:
The mixture is mixed with soil so that its height is 10 cm. The resulting nutrient layer is fenced off with a 5 cm layer of black soil and then everything is compacted. After this, a small earthen mound is poured into the hole and the seedling is placed on it, straightening the roots well. Now you can start filling the hole.
The depth of the hole is greater than the height of the bush, so there is free space left from the level of growth. It will serve as protection young seedling from the wind and active sun. It will be easier to pour water for irrigation into such a depression.
Immediately after planting, the grapes should be watered well. 20-30 liters of water are used per bush. It is recommended to water the grapes every 2 weeks. After absorbing moisture, it is necessary to loosen the soil so that the soil does not become crusty and receives normal air exchange. As soon as the first signs of successful establishment appear, it is advisable to mulch the soil around the bush.
Sandy soils differ in their properties from chernozem, so such soil needs more careful preparation. The hole must be dug to a depth of 1 meter. A layer of clay is made at the very bottom so that it can retain moisture. The clay is laid in a layer of 15 cm, and sides are also made of clay, but thicker. This will help the moisture from leaving the clay ball to the side and down so quickly.
Choosing a site for a vineyard
Before choosing a place to plant grapes, any gardener should take into account the number of available seedlings. It is believed that the optimal distance between the vines should be 3 meters. The distance between rows can be 2-3 meters. If the area is too small, then the distance between the bushes and rows is reduced to 2 meters. However, such a distance will limit the possibilities for normal care of the bushes. Required condition successful cultivation is the illumination of the place. The area for the vineyard should not be shaded by neighboring plantings.
Very important role The grape variety plays a role in determining the distance between rows and bushes, as well as the type of molding. The widest planting with a distance between rows of 4-5 meters and between bushes of 2 meters or more is used for vigorously growing varieties. This is especially important when grapes grow on fertile soils.
Medium growing crops Using simple trellises, they are planted with a distance between rows of 2 meters. An interval of 1.5-2 meters is maintained between bushes.
For medium and low-growing varieties on depleted soils, you can maintain a distance of 1-1.5 meters between seedlings and in row spacing up to 1.5 meters. In this case, use a low trellis or use pegs when planting.
With good and fertile soils and the ability to timely fertilize and water grapes with a two-plane trellis, you can maintain a distance between bushes of 1-1.25 meters and between rows of up to 3 meters.
Using high trellises for growing grapes at a level of 3 meters, the crop is planted more densely. It is better to plant grapes at a distance of up to 1 meter. However, they are formed at different heights - in the ground and standard forming with a height of 1.2-1.5 meters.
If you plant bushes too close, then caring for them becomes more difficult. A large number of bushes will not give a large harvest if you do not take into account its compatibility with other crops. D Trees growing close will draw nutrients from the soil, taking them away from the vine.
What is the correct distance between grape bushes when planting?
Determining the density of planting cuttings is carried out once and subsequently nothing can be changed - except perhaps to create a new place for a new vineyard. Therefore, calculating the seating chart for initial stage is the most important part in viticulture. If an error occurs in the calculations, this can lead to a decrease in productivity, inhibition of development, and complication of care measures.
Factors influencing the distance between grape bushes
The distance between the bushes depends on the growth strength of a particular grape variety.
Main influencing factors:
Time interval
The free arrangement of the bushes allows the grapes to develop better.
The planting event is planned for either spring or fall. In most cases, time does not play an extremely important role in this, but there are exceptions.
Cuttings or green shoots are used for propagation.. The spring procedure involves planting seedlings from April to the first half of May. Young shoots should be planted from the second half of May to the first half of June. In autumn it is worth planting from the first half of October to the second half of November.
Try to imagine how the grape bushes will spread out in the future.
Features of the variety and planting material
An equally important factor is the choice of planting material.
Minimum distances between grape seedlings.
As a rule, annual plants are selected for seedlings. In this case, a white root is noted on the cut. If a brown or yellowish color is found on the cut, the cutting will adapt poorly and develop slowly. This indicates that the plant is at the wilting stage.
To check the freshness and strength of the eyes, you need to lightly run your fingers over them. If the eyes fall off when touched, it means the grapes are sick and will not take root in the new place. The skeleton of the seedling itself should be slightly moist - this indicates that there is juice inside, and the shank will take root well. The cut shows a bright green color.
At the initial stage, it is worth choosing a place for planting. The choice of location should be based on how much planting material is available.
The distance between the cuttings, as a rule, is about three meters, but this is far from essential if the grapes are not characterized by excessive vine density, while the larch is of moderate size and quantity.
In general, if the indicators are average or below average, then compliance with generally accepted parameters is not a mandatory measure.
In fact known methods plantings are used as a trellis. The only difference is the orientation of that trellis. There are three types - single-plane, two-plane, horizontal type. For amateur cultivation they are used universal parameters. If a simple type is used for the crop - single columns or ordinary wire tension, the recommended distance is from one and a half meters to 1 m 70 cm in row spacing.
Between plants, a distance of 1 m 20 cm to one and a half meters is used.
Distance between rows.
Wine varieties are planted a little differently. The row spacing is one and a half meters, the gap between the bushes is usually kept within one meter and twenty centimeters.
When planting dessert varieties, a row spacing of one and a half meters is maintained. However, if the crop is characterized by sufficiently lush vegetation, the width increases to two meters. The bushes are located at a width of about two meters.
tall plants
Vineyard in the field: the distance between the bushes is 1.5 m, and between the rows - 2.85 m (for a tractor).
If the grapes are grown in conditions where they are not buried, the stems will begin to grow rapidly - growing up to 1.50 m in height. In this case, the cutting gap should be left about three and a half meters, the width between the rows will vary within 1.50 m.
In industrial farms, crops with rather tall stems are usually grown, while maintaining the following dimensions: row spacing – up to 3.5 m, cuttings – 1.5 m .
Rapidly growing grapes
Industrial trellis for a vigorous grape variety - the distance between the bushes is 4 meters.
If rapidly growing plants are used, it is worth considering strong growth vines, while the formed stems will have a powerful structure.
The interval is maintained: rows - 3 m, bushes - 2 m. In the case when planting was carried out by isolation, that is, there are no pronounced rows, but only one strip, the cutting interval is maintained at a rate of about 1.5 m.
It should be noted that a closer location reduces the development of the crop and prevents the formation of stems, root systems, stepsons, and foliage systems. Therefore, adherence to the recommended parameters is a must.
Conclusion
Important: if a wider seating scheme is used than recommended in gardening manuals, nothing bad will happen. Free placement will allow the crop to develop more powerful roots and stems.
Form and develop larger clusters and produce larger fruits. Among other things, it will provide free access to light, which is a necessity for such a light-loving crop as grapes.
Video on how to properly plant a vineyard
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At what distance to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground (diagrams)
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Often, even with proper care, tomatoes become rotten and do not produce ovaries. And all because during planting the required distance is not maintained between the bushes. Introducing clear diagrams planting tomatoes so that you get a good harvest.
Last year, the seedlings suffered from crowding, was it inconvenient to care for the plants and harvest? To avoid these mistakes, you need to know at what distance to plant tomatoes, and adhere to these rules when planting in a greenhouse and open ground.
Planting by eye is used when there are few plants - 10-15 bushes. In other cases, you must definitely arm yourself with a centimeter, pegs and ropes to mark the planted area. You can also make a marker from a board that will make it easier to mark the holes.
Planting tall tomatoes
Growing tall tomatoes allows you to save space in a greenhouse or open ground. To get a good harvest, you don’t have to plant a lot of plants, because up to 10 fruit clusters grow on one stem of this tomato. Tall tomatoes will not shade each other and will require less care. In addition, they can become a real decoration summer cottage, thanks to its elegant appearance.
If you grow tall tomatoes, the distance between rows can be up to 1 m, between bushes - 70 cm. In some cases, the interval can be slightly reduced: 70-90 cm between rows and 50-60 cm between bushes, respectively.
Here approximate diagram, which shows the planting of tomatoes, the distance between individual bushes and rows.
Remember that tall varieties of tomatoes require staking to a support.
Planting medium-sized tomatoes
Medium-sized tomatoes are planted at a distance of 55 cm between plants and 70-80 cm between rows. It is permissible to slightly change these parameters taking into account the variety. If you create ideal conditions for plants, you can get 7-8 kg of fruit from one bush! A visual diagram will help you correctly place crops in a greenhouse or open ground.
Planting low-growing tomatoes
Low-growing tomatoes produce an early harvest, so they are highly valued by gardeners. When planting tomatoes of these varieties, you can leave up to 30 cm of free space between the bushes, and 50 cm between the rows. Below is the planting distance for low-growing varieties of tomatoes.
A checkerboard planting will be successful, in which up to 10 bushes can fit per 1 sq.m.
Distance between tomatoes in a greenhouse
The main problem when planting in a greenhouse is to calculate the size of the beds and the passage between them. This depends on the width of the greenhouse. For buildings up to 3.5 m, you can use several planting methods: with two or three beds. Accordingly, there will be one or two passes. Here are some sample diagrams.
The presence of one passage is not always convenient for caring for plants, but it allows you to use the soil in the greenhouse as economically as possible. This is especially true for small buildings up to 2.5 m wide.
Before deciding at what distance to plant tomatoes, keep in mind that one plant needs at least 0.3 square meters of soil. The average distance between bushes is 40 cm, and between rows is 50-60 cm.
Two aisles provide more space for dacha work. But there is another danger here: the plants in the central bed may not have enough light. To solve this problem, plant tall varieties of tomatoes here.
The beds should not exceed 1.2 m in width, so that it is convenient to care for plants close to the wall. Passages less than 40 cm are also irrational. Their optimal size is 50-70 cm.
For large greenhouses with a width of more than 3.5 m, we offer this planting option.
In a large greenhouse you can plant on a grand scale. But it’s worth thinking about lighting and watering the plants in advance. Hybrids usually grow very quickly, so they can be placed on narrow garden bed in one row, and compact varieties - in 2-3 rows on wide beds. Tall tomatoes are placed closer to the center of the greenhouse, and medium- and low-growing ones near the walls. This way all plants will have enough sunny color.
Tomatoes – light-loving plants, so do not allow thickening when planting. If possible, each tomato leaf should receive enough light. Lower leaves and stepchildren need to be removed in time.
Distance between tomatoes in open ground
The distance between tomatoes when planted in open ground differs from that in a greenhouse, because here you are practically unlimited. The main thing is to choose appropriate place – sunny plot where there is no strong wind. Here are some examples of planting that you can implement on your site.
The optimal size would be a bed up to 100 cm wide and 20-25 cm high. Before planting, remove debris from the beds and apply fertilizer: 5 kg of compost per 1 sq.m. It is best to place the bushes in a checkerboard pattern to make it convenient to care for the plants and then harvest them.
The greater the distance between tomato bushes (within acceptable limits), the more beneficial it is for the plants. Each of them receives an equal amount of light, heat and air. The risk of damaging tomatoes during care is minimal. Therefore, do not save space, do not thicken the plantings. And to get more tomatoes, choose productive varieties.
Now you have found out what distance of tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground will be optimal for plants. All that remains is to choose suitable way and land correctly. Share photos of successful beds and secrets of growing tomatoes in the comments!
Because grapes are perennial, as well as heat-loving and light-loving, the choice of a place for a vineyard must be taken very seriously. Light and heat are the alpha and omega of choice. If the location is chosen well, the grape bushes will be long-lasting, productive, and with tasty berries. The culture of your vineyard will ultimately depend on this.
What should you do when starting a small vineyard?
In autumn or spring, you need to level the surface of the area and loosen the soil with a rake so that less moisture evaporates.
Most often, grapes are planted on a vertical trellis. Therefore, you need to try to ensure straight rows of grapes and correctly mark the locations of future bushes.
To plant a vineyard, it is better to choose southern, southwestern or western slopes - they receive more sun, and it has a beneficial effect on the entire bush. The accumulation of sugar in the berries, as well as the ripening of the vine, depends on the amount of sun. If there is little sun, if there is not enough lighting, next year’s crop will not form well in the buds, and the leaves may turn yellow and fall prematurely.
Low areas of the plains, the foothills of mountain slopes, hills or ravines are unfavorable for planting a vineyard, as cold air can accumulate in them during frosts.
On the plains and small slopes It is advisable to direct the rows from north to south, and on slopes above 5 0 C - across the slope. The distance between rows should be approximately 2 m.
To make full use of the grape bushes sunlight, it is recommended to evenly place the shoots on the trellis, remove excess shoots and pinch them 
stepsons.
On the south-eastern side, grapes may suffer from frost (with rapid thawing of the ice crust on the bush during sunrise) and from dry easterly winds. The northern, north-eastern and north-western slopes are unsuitable for vineyards.
If next to the grape bushes on the north side there are stone wall or wooden fence, then the grape bushes can receive more solar heat, since the wall or fence, heating up from the sun, gives off heat to the air. In addition, these bushes will be protected from northern winds in this way.
If the area in which our vineyard is located often experiences northern and northeastern winds, we need to protect the vineyard with building walls, fences, and greenery: for example, currant bushes or fruit trees. Trees need to be pruned at a height of 2 - 3 m.
Grape seedlings should not be planted very close to trees and shrubs, otherwise the soil for the root system of the bushes will be depleted and 
dried out. It is recommended to plant grapes at a distance of approximately 3 m from trees and 2 m from shrubs.
You should not plant grapes very close to the wall of the house. The distance should be approximately one and a half meters. Then it will be possible to bring the grape vines to the house using layering - a bush. A cutting is a shoot, part of a bush or grape bush, removed from the mother plant, buried in the soil for the development of a new bush.
Long shadows should not fall on the grape bushes.
Between bushes in a row for medium-growing grape varieties, leave at least 1.25 m, for vigorous bushes - up to 2 m.
The roots of the grapes penetrate several meters deep, so it is advisable to locate the vineyard so that the groundwater is no more than two meters from the surface of the earth (low groundwater level).
There are several ways to mark an area for planting grape bushes. I 
I usually do this: I mark the places of the outermost bushes, then I retreat about 70 cm in each direction from these bushes in the direction of the row and drive in pegs for future support posts. Next you need to pull the cord from one peg to another - this is how you get a row line. Using a tape measure, I measure the distance between the grape bushes and place pegs in these places. For the next rows, I measure approximately 2 m from the outer pegs of the first row to one side, and mark the bushes in the same way as in the first row.
Question answer
How to make the vineyard as warm as possible?
In my vineyard about ten years ago, several bushes of the Madeleine Angevin grape variety were planted, and they were planted to the southwest of the apple tree, at a distance of just over two meters. When the grape variety produced an excellent harvest four years after planting (up to 11 - 12 kg per bush), the apple tree grew thoroughly and began to shade my Madeleine. In the fifth year the harvest was smaller, and in the sixth the bushes were almost empty. I had to sacrifice the apple tree - trim it thoroughly on the southwest side. In the seventh year I was again with a harvest of Madeleine Angevine grapes. This case very clearly demonstrates how the proximity of trees, and therefore the lack of sun, significantly affects grapes.
The grapes feel the greatest comfort on small slopes that descend at an angle of 20 - 30 0 to the south, southwest or southeast. Here the grapes receive maximum sun.
Grape cultivation is complex and long process, requiring the gardener to pay increased attention to all details and nuances. The grape harvest is rightfully worth being proud of, because to get even a small harvest, you have to work hard over several seasons. However, the result is always worth the effort.
With proper preparation and good care, the first harvest can be harvested in the third year. For cultivation on garden plots Usually seedlings or cuttings are used, since growing a vine from seeds will be unreasonably long and difficult. This planting method is more intended for breeders, since it is easier to crossbreed and hybridize.
In order to start growing grapes on your plot, you should choose the appropriate variety, planting time and place for growing. When choosing a grape variety, you should pay attention to the country of origin of the variety - for example, European varieties are more resistant to certain diseases than American ones. Varies depending on the variety optimal time planting and the best place on the site.
It is imperative to take into account the climatic conditions of your region, depending on which a frost-resistant or heat-loving variety will be selected. The more details are thought out, the higher the likelihood that, along with new responsibilities for caring for the vineyard, you will receive great pleasure and good results from growing this crop.
The location chosen for the vineyard largely determines its future productivity. All grape bushes must be evenly and equally illuminated throughout the daylight hours, must have good ventilation and they should be at least relatively convenient to care for. The most common rules for planting grapes are:
- South, southwest or west side. If there are differences in elevation, you should not place grapes in the lowlands. The distance to the trees should be at least 3 meters; the larger the trees, the further away the grapes should be planted. It is a good idea to place grape bushes next to the walls of the house, and preference should be given to the same cardinal directions.
- The ground should first be loosened and leveled. The best soils For grapes, loams, sandy loams and chernozems are considered. It is recommended to mix the upper part of the backfill of planting holes on clay and chernozem soils with sand for better drainage, and also increase the amount of applied phosphate fertilizers. Sandy soils, on the other hand, do not require drainage. But for sandy loams, you should add an increased volume of manure or humus, increase the amount nitrogen fertilizers, you can add more peat to the soil.
- Straight rows are marked and the planting location of each seedling is precisely determined. The distance between the pits should be at least 3 meters, and between the rows - at least 2 m. It is worth considering the degree of growth of the grape bushes, as well as the size of the trellises to which the vines will be attached. There is no need to plant grapes too densely - this will not allow the bushes to ventilate and it will be difficult to care for them. At frequent landing It’s easy to miss the onset of the disease, as well as the first signs of a lack of certain substances. Between the rows of grapes you can plant low garden plants However, they should not be planted too densely either.
Soil preparation
As we have already mentioned, grapes grow best on black soil, clay and sandy soils. Soil preparation should begin at least two weeks before planting the grapes, so that the soil has time to settle, compact, and minerals and fertilizers can be distributed more or less evenly over it. If you decide to plant in the spring, you need to take care of preparing the soil in the fall.
So, let’s highlight the procedure for preparing the soil for planting grapes:
- Dig up the soil, regardless of its composition.
- Apply fertilizers, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the needs of the selected variety.
- Add additional components - sand for soils with a low degree of aeration, and for dry and infertile soils - humus, peat or manure.
- Prepare holes for planting grapes, the bottom of which can be covered with a drainage layer in advance.
Selection of planting material
You can plant grapes in the form of seedlings, cuttings and seedlings. In any case, the planting material must have at least three roots 7-10 cm in length, which must be elastic and slightly moist. For a good seedling, 4-5 buds are enough; the average length of a mature shoot starts from 20 cm.
Of course, if you expect to get healthy plants, the planting material should not have the slightest trace of fungal diseases, mechanical damage, light or dark spots. The body of the seedling should be dense, not too wet and not dry. Be extremely careful when transporting and planting vegetative (green) seedlings, as they are very easy to damage.
For this site, choose fast-growing grape varieties with good immunity. The colder the winters in the region, the more attention should be paid to the frost resistance of the variety. A good choice for areas with short summers would be varieties with early maturation.
Boarding time
Each gardener chooses the season for planting grapes independently. Both options have their pros and cons; the selection of planting time depends on climatic conditions, region and grape variety, including its resistance to cold. Next, we will talk about the features of planting grapes in both of these seasons, and the specific choice will be left to the winegrowers.
Autumn planting of grapes
It is optimal for autumn planting to choose well-developed seedlings that have managed to form a sufficient root system. Before planting, you should prepare not only the soil, adding necessary fertilizers, but also make sure that the future bush has sufficient thermal protection. One of the main disadvantages of autumn planting of grapes is the potential for freezing of seedlings that do not have sufficient immunity and are not resistant to winter cold.
In the fall, it is quite easy to find seedlings of the chosen variety, since it is during this period that winegrowers dig out branches that have taken root in the summer and also prepare cuttings for planting. Autumn planting of grapes begins in October and lasts until the first frost. Seedlings will definitely need additional protection by cold.
- A hole with a diameter of about 80 cm and a depth of 75-85 cm is dug. Its bottom is covered with crushed stone, into which you need to place a tube (diameter 5 cm, length about 1 m) for root watering, which should be placed closer to the edge of the hole. Next, soil, manure or humus, potassium and phosphate fertilizers alternate in layers; if necessary, you can add about a liter of ash (depending on the type of soil).
- 5-7 cm of fertile soil is poured on top of the fertilizer layer, from which you need to form a mound. A seedling is placed on it, the remaining volume of the pit is also covered in layers, without adding another layer of fertilizer.
- The protruding part of the seedling must be covered with half a plastic bottle, in which several ventilation holes. Water warm water(up to +50 o C, 4 buckets), insulate in the same way as adult plants, you can add a layer of sawdust, spruce branches or peat.
Spring planting of grapes
There is a significant amount of time in winter to prepare planting material, be it seedlings or cuttings. You can slowly choose a place for planting during spring cleaning in the garden, having determined perfect place for grapes. The beginning of spring planting of grapes occurs at the end of March and lasts until the last days of April, and in some regions until June.
Frozen areas of the ground after thawing can stratify and form voids; the roots of the plant will, in this case, be “suspended” and will not be able to receive either water or nutrients. To prepare for spring planting you can water the selected area of the garden with very warm or even hot water(from +50 o C to +65 o C). Watering should be repeated daily after planting to ensure sufficient supply to the seedling. essential microelements and, of course, moisture.
- The size and shape of the pit coincide with the same parameters when planting in the fall, and many winegrowers recommend preparing the pits in the fall so that the soil has time to settle and settle sufficiently. At least 10 cm of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, and an irrigation pipe is also installed.
- The alternation of layers of soil, fertilizer and humus is identical autumn planting, as soon as the depth of the hole is 0.5 m, a mound of black soil should be formed, into which the seedling is placed with its roots to the south. You should not compact the soil with excessive zeal, as there is a high probability of damaging the roots of the plant.
- Then alternate: a layer of manure, a layer of fertilizer, a layer of soil. The surface is compacted and watered abundantly; in the spring, 3 liters of water will be enough; if the region is too dry, you can water the plants with plenty of water.
