Summer water supply at home. Connecting the pumping station to the well. What water sources are used for summer plumbing?

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small reserve.

The calculation must be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water withdrawal, taking into account the amount of constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects must also be taken into account - sauna, bathhouse, area of land allocated for growing vegetables, orchard which in some regions is now difficult to grow without watering.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the expected future source of water supply should become more abundant.

When locating the water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump pressure by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site.

If water consumption is low - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is simple to construct, relatively inexpensive, and all work on its construction can be easily done with your own hands. It is powered by water due to groundwater, the depth of which ranges from 4 to 15 meters.

The construction of a shaft well is the simplest: a head above the ground, reinforced concrete rings underground or a frame made of wooden beam thickness is usually 25 cm.

The shaft of such a country well should be deepened into the aquifer by 3, or even better, by four meters. Layers of sand, gravel, and crushed stone are alternately poured into the bottom of the mine well, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick; subsequently, they will act as a natural filter for purifying the incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it flows from the sides. After which they install it on the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. This can be done after its construction - to do this, they calculate the initial volume of water that entered it by gravity, after which it is pumped out with a pump and the time after which it is filled again to the previous level is measured.

In principle, for a normal water supply to a dacha there is always enough of it; they also dry out extremely rarely; in my practice as a “shabashnik” this happened only a few times, and even then, after pumping out the water and cleaning and disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If the groundwater is deep

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters or deeper, then the option of a well is eliminated; in this case, you will have to drill a well. They drill them “for sand” and “for limestone”.

Let's explain:

Drilling a well into sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much simpler that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this work.

To construct a well in sand, you will only need a pump, a filter mesh, and a steel casing pipe with a diameter of 125-133 millimeters.

Drilling a well “on sand” takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cubic meter per hour. This is not much, but it will be enough for most homestead owners.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well into sand, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even with not very intensive use, the service life of a well “for sand” is 4-5 years.

An artesian well or a well “for limestone” is expensive, takes a long time to complete, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but... It lasts a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspended matter) and can produce “great results” from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour (at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells “for limestone”

The most commonly used method is to lay casing down to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, down to the aquifer itself.

In order to avoid damage to the rock, through which surface water can penetrate deeper, plugging is used, which consists of pouring a small volume cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe upon reaching the limestone layer. This is a kind of filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could enter the “artesian”.

By the way, the water contained in limestone (from 30 m and deeper) is no longer groundwater, but artesian water. To extract it, you must obtain permission from the authorities. Work can only be carried out by a specialized licensed company.

This type of well is even required to obtain a special “well passport”.

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well construction is of a two-pipe nature.

The first pipe with a large diameter is placed on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with the final, working diameter. To avoid contamination of the artesian well surface waters A sealing plug made of compactonite clay is made between the two types of pipes used.

Such a well will cost more than 50% more than an ordinary single-pipe well. As a rule, several neighbors chip in to drill them, but even then it still turns out to be expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained by the very high quality of water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the point of raising water from a well or borehole. To establish a water supply from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps.

The main condition for their use is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can be - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, these are the same surface pumps, but ejector ones. Most often they use submersible well pumps, which can easily “overcome” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are the happy owner of an artesian well, then you will have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If you want to automate this whole thing, you will have to resort to purchasing a CAB (system autonomous water supply), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a regulating pressure switch. The thing is great, but expensive for many.

Pros and cons of different water extraction methods

Mine well The work is labor-intensive. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call in equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, removing earth from the under-well space and lowering it there concrete rings.The advantages of the shaft well design are obvious: the possibility self-repair, cleaning and disinfection as the need arises (may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with close groundwater levels.
What is a driven well, or in other words, an Abyssinian well? This is a design in which a steel pipe is driven into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which water will actually get inside this very steel pipe and be pumped out from there by a pump.
What is a well chamber The option that people move to their dachas for permanent residence now not uncommon - therefore water is needed constantly. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical devices from the effects of precipitation. It is easy to build a chamber with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Requires a cover.
What is a bore well This is a water supply device where a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then an ordinary sewer pipe (115 millimeters in diameter) is installed in it to a depth of 7-8 meters, after which, using a filter section (those blue polyethylene pipes), water enters the pipe and is taken up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If the dacha already has a well (maybe made with your own hands, or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost you can organize not only cold, but also hot water supply to the house. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump “Aquarius” was used to lift the water. The pipe outlet from the well is waterproofed using silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. To prevent stagnation of water in the system, a valve is installed at the lowest level of the network.

We carry out water with our own hands - step by step

Using a cable, we lowered the pump into the well, without allowing tension on the power cable and supply hose. We secured the cable to the surface. A head for water intake was installed on the supply hose.
We supply water to the house through a polyethylene pipe stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. At the same time, a second pipe was laid, into which an electric cable was passed.
The supply pipe was connected to the further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent water from draining back into the well. We installed a mechanical (coarse) filter.
We brought the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, pressure gauge and fine filter were installed at the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the power supply.
After being purified and filtered, the water enters the hydraulic accumulator, which supports required pressure in a pressure water supply system, saving time when turning on the pump.
From the dispensing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls made of polypropylene pipes. A shower cabin, sink and water heater were installed in the bathroom.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the issue of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often on suburban area, not connected to a centralized water supply, dacha owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

When the depth of groundwater in the area is relatively shallow (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed; water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose connections of the walls (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Summer water supply

First, let's look at the installation of a water supply system in a dacha, which will only be used in summer period time. This type of water supply is used for watering plants at the dacha, connecting and running household needs. It is not intended to be used in winter. Summer water supply at the dacha can be either permanent or collapsible.

The most common is water supply, the pipes (hoses) of which lie directly on the ground. Such a water supply is made from simple rubber or silicone hoses connected to each other by adapters.

Connection adapters are commercially available and are made of galvanized steel or plastic. There are also special latches on sale on one side, which have “ruffs” where the hose is put on, and on the other side there is a convenient spring-loaded connector. These latches can be connected and separated in one motion. They are quite capable of providing a reliable joint.

Note that when purchasing hoses, you need to buy rubber hoses with thick walls, which are reinforced with nylon fibers. Of course, plastic water supply at the dacha will cost less, but such hoses will last longer - at least 15 years.

For a permanent summer water supply, pipes must be laid in the ground, and water taps must be brought to the surface. In this case, it is enough to just cover the pipes a little with earth to avoid tripping over them and to protect them from theft.

The main disadvantage of a permanent summer water supply is the need to maintain a slope to the connection point - to the main line. A drain valve is placed at this lowest point in the water supply to drain water for the winter. Otherwise, the water may freeze and burst the pipes.

Now let's talk about more solid and capital schemes. Let's start with a description of the winter water supply. Winter does not mean that it can only be used in winter, but this name simply implies that the water supply system is carried out according to a permanent scheme and can be used at any time of the year, even in winter.

To supply water from a well, it is better to use a submersible pump. Its power is selected depending on the depth from which water will be supplied. For a well up to ten meters deep, a small “stream” or “aquarius” is enough. If water is supplied from a well, you will have to buy a more powerful pump, which will cost much more.

Due to the fact that when installing a winter water supply, the pump must be connected to a voltage source, it is permissible to combine the laying of the cable and water supply in a single casing made of plastic sewer pipes. It will protect well from freezing and mechanical damage.

Laying water pipes

To lay the water supply, you can use plastic pipes with soldered or special connections. plastic fittings. For soldering connections, use a special electric soldering iron. It is not very expensive, and specialized stores often offer such soldering irons for rent. To install the pipeline, you will need a soldering iron for no more than a day. Connections on fittings are made " with bare hands» without a soldering iron. For an ordinary dacha, pipes with a diameter of 20 or 25 millimeters are quite suitable.

When laying a water supply system, the pipes must be placed below the freezing level of the soil. The value of this value for each specific climate zone can be found in special reference books. But often, in order not to dig too deep a trench, you can use one of the following methods:

Cover the pipe laid at a depth of 60 centimeters with a 20-30 centimeter layer of insulation made of foam chips, furnace slag, expanded clay, etc. The main condition is that the insulation does not absorb moisture well and is strong enough.
Insulate the pipeline with an insulation system consisting of special thermal insulation and a casing made of corrugated polyethylene. Using such a system, the depth of the trench can be made much smaller (about 30 centimeters).
Lay a heating cable that allows pipes to be laid on the surface. But you will have to pay a lot for electricity.

It should be taken into account that the trench should approach the house at a right angle, because it will be necessary to dig up the foundation, which is fraught with its settlement and the formation of cracks in the wall.

To connect the pump to the water supply, it is necessary to build a pit next to the well, one meter deep and measuring 70x70 centimeters. The walls of the pit are lined with bricks or reinforced in another way, for example, with boards soaked in antiseptic. It would be better to fill the bottom of the pit with concrete or, as a last resort, fill it with crushed stone and compact it.

They are taken out into the pit and fixed water pipe with a “ruff” for attaching the hose that comes from the pump, as well as an electrical cord. The function of the pit is that, if necessary, the pump can be easily disconnected and removed. The pit is insulated to prevent water from freezing in the pump hose.

To connect the pump, install a waterproof socket or use a sealed contact connector, better known as a “male-female” connector. The main condition is that the pump can be safely connected and disconnected, even if the cable is energized.

Water taps

We have decided how to install a water supply system in our dacha. Now let's take a closer look at water folding devices. For outdoor use, bronze or cast iron valves, as well as conventional valves with axle-boxes, are quite suitable. Ball valves have an attractive appearance, but it is not advisable to use them: when the tap for a long time is in the open position or vice versa - closed, as well as with strong temperature fluctuations and exposure to precipitation - such taps can quickly fail.

The most complex water supply unit is the water distribution unit, which is located outdoors or in an unheated room. Special requirements are placed on him, because he will have to work under negative temperatures. Typically, water taps are used. The disadvantage of the column is the complexity of installation and high cost.

There is no point in explaining how important it is for any summer resident or gardener to create a convenient and relatively inexpensive irrigation system on his property. Metal is now expensive, so the overwhelming majority prefer country water supply systems made of plastic pipes.

The cost of manufacturing will be cheaper than if you use steel pipes of the same cross-section, and it is quite possible to do the water pipe distribution around the site with your own hands, even without the involvement of specialists.

Features of planning a country water supply system

Construction of a water supply system for summer cottage It is always more difficult than if you were making plumbing for a residential building or garage. The main problem is that formally you will need to build three branches:

Plumbing with drinking water for a country house;
Stationary water supply system for supplying process water to the house and to the watering points in the garden beds;
A temporary structure or portable system of pipes and hoses for connecting drip and shower irrigation of beds, shrubs and trees.

For each system, you can choose your own version of plastic pipes that is most suitable for the task. In addition, the price of plastic pipes for water supply in the country is of no small importance. For example, if you try to draw up a water supply diagram for a country house, it will become clear that in this case everything will take no more than 20 m of pipes with three consumer points - for the kitchen, shower and toilet.

Such a water supply system can be easily assembled with your own hands from polypropylene pipes. The whole idea of installing a water supply system in a country house will cost a maximum of $150-200, provided it is connected to a centralized water supply system or to an already built well with a pump and outlet.

If you try to assemble a water supply system for an irrigation system using the same scheme, then the costs of purchasing and assembling plastic pipes alone may increase several times. For example, for a standard dacha plot of 6 acres, the total length of the pipeline laid in the ground is at least 100 linear meters; accordingly, the price of an irrigation branch of a polypropylene water pipeline will increase by at least 2-3 times. To this scheme it is worth adding a system of hose waterers and drip irrigation, for example, for a greenhouse or beds under film.

For your information! A properly planned and constructed plastic water supply can withstand 10-15 years of operation without major repairs or maintenance.

System country watering, assembled from rubber hoses and steel pipes, with a higher construction cost, it lasts about half as long, so there is no real alternative to using plastic.

A typical design of a country plastic water supply system is shown in the diagram. As a rule, water supply to the beds was carried out in the form of several parallel pipelines with a diameter of 20 mm, which were connected in the form of a “comb” to the main pressure line with a cross-section of 40-50 mm.

To ensure the supply of irrigation water, one pressure irrigation and one supply line are sufficient to supply the house and fill the drip irrigation reservoir.

Features of the selection of plastic pipes for each segment of the water supply system

The simplest conclusion suggests itself: in order to reduce costs, for each section of the country water supply you need to use your own, most suitable brand of plastic pipes.

Four types of plastic pipes and hoses are currently used for country water supply:

Polypropylene;
Polyethylene;
Silicone;
Polyvinyl chloride.

PVC pipes have good strength characteristics and satisfactory resistance to sun and frost, but it is better not to use it for arranging above-ground water supply systems. Anyway, plastic pipes made of PVC will require special wrapping with polyethylene foam, which protects against accidental scratches and impacts during installation and further use.

For your information! Of the entire range of plastic pipes for country water supply systems, only metal-plastic ones with an aluminum reinforcing layer are not used.

First of all, the price of metal-plastic pipes several times larger than polymer pipelines made of polyethylene with a similar cross-section.

The metal-plastic pipeline perfectly withstands prolonged heating, high water pressure, and can serve in a summer cottage for several decades. But under one condition - country water supply in winter time must be completely freed from water, and in the summer - completely filled.

Thin-walled metal-plastic pipes swell when they freeze and the connecting fittings become deformed. IN summer time standing idle without water leads to intense corrosion of the aluminum sublayer if you step on it with your foot or run over it with a wheel. vehicle, then with a high degree of probability such a country water supply system will be damaged.

Ground water supply from polyethylene pipes

Essentially, using polyethylene pipes for arranging an irrigation water supply system at a summer cottage is the most rational decision both from a technological and cost point of view.

Advantages and disadvantages of polyethylene pipes

Firstly, the cost linear meter a polyethylene water pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is only 30 cents; for comparison, a meter of polypropylene pipe will cost at least 1.5 dollars. Even taking into account that couplings for polyethylene and polypropylene cost 2.2 dollars and 1.3 dollars respectively, the use of polyethylene pipelines will cost much less than plastic pipelines based on polypropylene.

Moreover, polyethylene, as a rule, is sold in the form of coiled sections of 20 and 100 m. Polypropylene pipes are sold in retail in ready-made pieces of 4 m and 6 m, which means that the number of couplings will be required several times more.

Secondly, polyethylene pipes have good resistance to solar ultraviolet radiation, high strength and ductility. Even with low temperatures and plastic pipes do not fail when water freezes inside the water supply system.

Two grades of polyethylene pipes are produced for plumbing systems:

PVD - polymer high pressure, used for small sections of water pipes where good flexibility and strength are required;
HDPE - polymer low pressure, used for high-pressure water pipelines and highways.

For your information! Country water pipelines are built from polyethylene pipes designed for transporting drinking water.

They are easily distinguished by their blue or white longitudinal stripe on a black background. Any other brands, for example, with a yellow or orange stripe, are designed for the transportation of gas and liquid products chemical production, so they are not even suitable for watering in a summer cottage. On the surface of the plastic pipe, the purpose, diameter, wall thickness and GOST, on the basis of which the plastic product is manufactured, must be indicated.

In addition to the brand of polyethylene and purpose, plastic pipes are distinguished by operating pressure:

Low-pressure or L-class, operating pressure in the main line is no more than 2.5 atm;
Medium-pressure S and SL, designed for pressure from 4 to 8 atm;
High-pressure T- class, used for water pipelines with operating pressure more than 10 atm.

The latter are used for equipping wells and boreholes in summer cottages; class L and SL are most often used for water supply distribution throughout the territory, provided that the terrain has a difference of no more than 10 m in height for every 100 m of horizontal length.

Do-it-yourself installation of a country water supply system

The main difference between a country water supply system and a home circuit is that pipe routing must be carried out taking into account the following requirements:

Large length of water mains on the territory of the summer cottage;
For every 5-7 m of the length of the underground water supply, it is necessary to solder in an outlet with a tap.

The water pipeline must be laid in the ground to a depth of at least 40-45 cm with a protective layer of slate scraps, fragments of plaster stone or old asbestos-cement pipes.

For your information! Laying a plastic pipe allows you to protect the pipe from accidental damage by a shovel, cutting blade of a walk-behind tractor or tractor.

Most summer residents are well aware of the effect of plastic pipes rising in the ground. Over time, due to the washout of the top layer and heaving of the soil lightweight plastic the pipe is gradually squeezed to the surface, so laying protection makes it possible to combat deformation of the water supply system.

It is clear that water supply pipes can be laid simply on the surface of the ground, but in summer cottages this installation method is used extremely limitedly for two reasons. Firstly, this interferes with the processing of the beds, and secondly, prefabricated structures made of polyethylene pipes are quite easily damaged by being caught by a tool or touched by the wheel of a walk-behind tractor.

One of the most important characteristics of a plastic water supply is its strength and rigidity, which become the main obstacle when installing an irrigation system. Rigid material can only be bent at a large radius, so compression couplings have to be used for joining and turning.

Essentially, a coupling or fitting is two parts connected into one body using threads. To splice two lines of water supply, it is enough to install the halves on the ends of the pipes, lay the seal and close the fitting with force. It is clear that this connection method is not designed for radial load, therefore, if you step on the plastic coupling, it is quite possible that the fitting will have to be disassembled and spliced in a new way.

In the same way, you can connect a flexible hose, build a turn in the line at a right angle, or make a branch into several threads of smaller diameter.

Installation of the irrigation outlet is relatively simple. To do this, install a clamp with a coupling on the pipe for installing a vertical outlet; after tightening the bolt fastening, you need to drill a hole and screw in a tap with a nozzle under the hose.

Traditional methods of splicing polyethylene water pipes

If a plastic water supply system is laid on the ground surface and the water pressure exceeds 8 atm, then a more rational solution would be to use horn welding instead of fittings, or connect the pipes with a metal pipe. Both methods have been tested in practice and, according to reviews from owners summer cottages, provide a more reliable and high-quality joint of polyethylene pipes.

For your information! The services of a specialist in installing fittings and joining individual water supply lines are often more expensive than the plastic pipes themselves.

For welding, you will first need to make a device in the form of two metal sockets, with an opening angle of 15-20 degrees. Before welding, the two ends of the plastic pipes are trimmed so that there is a mutual overlap of 40-50 mm. Usually, special scissors are used to cut polyethylene, but you can do the same job with a regular hacksaw.

The sockets are placed on the ends of the pipes. One is inserted with a cone inside the pipe, the second is put on the other end over the end. Both devices are slowly heated with a propane torch to melt the polyethylene. After 7-10 minutes. the sockets are removed, and the ends of the pipes are forcefully inserted into each other by 40-50 mm. The result is a strong and tight connection.

No less reliable and durable splicing of 25 mm polyethylene pipes can be done using a conventional metal splice 150 -200 mm long with threads at both ends. The internal diameter of the plastic pipe is 21 mm; it will not be possible to connect two threads of polyethylene water supply using a one and a half inch piece of pipe, since it outside diameter 22 mm.

After cutting the thread, the bend can simply be screwed inside the plastic pipe. The sharp edges of the threads cut into the plastic, engage and securely fix the bend inside the pipeline. To assemble the joint, it is enough to apply rubber glue-sealant to the threads and wrap the second piece of plastic pipe. It is clear that the assembly of plastic pipes on bends can only be carried out sequentially, since one section of pipe has to be rotated relative to another.

End welding for the assembly of plastic water pipes in summer cottages, as it is designed for the assembly of pipelines with a wall thickness of 5 mm and above.

Polypropylene water pipes for a summer cottage

Plastic pipelines made from “food grade” polypropylene are rightly considered by most experts to be the most technologically advanced and affordable for the construction of water pipelines in apartments, the private sector, country houses and cottages. Even the relatively high price of plastic pipes and components does not stop those who want to make their own plumbing good quality.

Materials for polypropylene water supply in a summer cottage

The reason for this popularity is very simple and reliable system soldering polypropylene, with a little practice, plastic pipes can be used to make not only long pipeline branches, but also greenhouses, greenhouses, frames of tents and canopies.

In addition to the high price of the material, polypropylene has several significant disadvantages that you should know about before planning the construction of a water supply system at your summer cottage:

If polypropylene pipes are filled with water, then freezing, as a rule, leads to the appearance of hidden cracks and destruction of the line;
Under the influence of solar ultraviolet radiation, the process of secondary polymerization begins in polypropylene. Over time, the material begins to crumble and lose strength, even if the pipeline is not exposed to direct sunlight.

Some brands of polypropylene pipes can be used for street water supply. As a rule, manufacturers paint plastic in black and green colors, polypropylene for indoor installation has a light gray, white or beige color.

For the main supply line of the pipeline, you can use a pipe measuring 32x3 mm; this will be enough to lay out the water supply and organize irrigation on 5-6 acres of a summer cottage. Branches and outlets are made with 16x2 mm pipes with the installation of taps.

Shut-off and switching valves need to be given special attention. Traditionally, for plastic water pipes, most supplier companies suggest using polypropylene taps with a rubber mushroom blocking the passage hole.

Such designs are usually used as shut-off valves in domestic water supply systems. They are not suitable for country water supply; even with regular maintenance, such valves and taps quickly fail. Their main advantage is ease of installation; they can be soldered into a plastic line, like a regular coupling.

A more rational solution would be to use conventional bronze valves; their service life is 10-15 years or more. The only inconvenience is that to install such a crane you will have to additionally purchase two metal-to-plastic adapters.

Methods for connecting polypropylene pipes in a summer cottage

Traditionally, to assemble a water supply system from polypropylene pipes, a special soldering iron is used, approximately the same as in the photo above. The quality of the assembly of a plastic water pipe depends on two factors - the availability of skills in performing installation operations and the characteristics of the soldering iron itself. You shouldn’t try to assemble a water pipe using homemade devices; it’s better to rent high-quality equipment for a couple of days, which can be used to solder water pipes, as they say, to perfection.

The principle of soldering is quite simple - the connecting coupling and the end of the pipe are heated on the nozzles of the soldering iron, after exposure the parts are simply connected by hand with little effort.

The method is simple, but in the conditions of a summer cottage it is not so easy to apply, since it is not always possible to extend the electrical network to the junction of the water supply system, even with the help of a cable reel. Some parts can be soldered in a country house, but still about 30% soldering work with plastic pipes will have to be done practically in the beds.

If there is no electricity at your summer cottage, then the plastic water supply can be glued together with a specialized dichloroethane-based glue. The glued joint has almost the same strength as the soldered version, but working with dichloroethane requires caution, since the solvent is classified as a substance hazardous to health.

Recommendations for arranging a water supply system in a summer cottage

The classic design of a country water supply system involves wiring according to the following scheme. The entrance to the site is made of polyethylene with a diameter of 50-70 mm. The water supply must be insulated and laid in the ground at the depth of maximum soil freezing. Must be installed at the entrance inspection well and shut-off valve. From the valve, water is directed through a PE pipe into a storage tank, from which part of the flow through a polypropylene pipe goes to country house. Most of the water flow is redirected from the tank to the underground water supply, and then to the beds.

With this construction of a country water supply, an unlimited number of consumers can be connected to the tank, for example, a greenhouse or a car wash. Moreover, even in the absence of electricity or a pump malfunction, watering can be easily organized by gravity; a small height difference of 1-2 m will be enough for normal watering.

Conclusion

It is very important that the underground water supply is connected to the storage tank with a compensation loop or flexible hose. Otherwise, due to soil heaving or thermal expansion plastic fittings The soldering or gluing points of the couplings may become deformed or even break off. At the lowest point of the plastic water supply you will need to make a drain tap, with which, before leaving, winter season You can drain the remaining water and preserve the lines.

You can't live without running water in your dacha. Summer water supply is the most common option for water supply in summer cottages. Thanks to the summer water supply system, plants are fully watered, time is saved, and work is made easier. Using pipes made from new materials instead of traditional metal ones allows you to make plumbing much faster, easier and cheaper.

The summer version of the water supply is quite suitable for seasonal living in the country. Can be used for both irrigation and household appliances, supplying water to the shower, bathhouse, swimming pool, brings comfort to country life. IN winter period its use is undesirable or completely impossible. Summer water supply is simpler and costs less than year-round water supply, but is less durable.

What water sources are used for summer plumbing?

The primary task when arranging a summer water supply is choosing a water source.

Types of water sources for summer water supply:

Central highway.
Well.
Well.
Natural body of water.
Rainwater reservoir.

Central water supply

Perfect option. To connect to a steel main pipe directly under pressure, use an overhead tee (saddle). It is installed at the entry point and secured with bolts. After which a ball valve is mounted into it on the fumnitka. Using a drill, drill a hole in the central pipe through the tap and immediately close the tap.

Natural bodies of water

Reservoirs - river, lake, pond. The disadvantage of using open reservoirs for country water supply is the need to purify the water from foreign impurities.

Wells

There are two types of wells designed for water intake - artesian and sand.

A sand well will require filtration equipment due to the high sand and clay content. The water supply rate is on average about two cubic meters per hour, which is quite enough for summer cottages and small country houses.

Water in an artesian well rises to the surface under pressure. The resulting amount of water is 10 cubic meters per hour. An additional advantage of an artesian well is that it pure water through deep drilling. Such wells are durable: on average, their service life is 50 years.

Well

The depth of the well depends on the groundwater level and usually does not exceed 15 m. The disadvantages of the well include the content of many harmful impurities and a small supply of water - approximately 200 liters per hour.

Rainwater collection tank

Swimming pools or artificial ponds, plastic and metal containers: tanks, barrels, vats. Drainage pipes are laid to them or drainage pipes are supplied roofing pipes. There is no need to drain the water from the containers for the winter, but to prevent the walls of the tank from freezing, place several plastic bottles half filled with water or sand.

What are the summer water supply schemes?

Once the source of water has been determined, you should decide which type of water supply to choose: year-round or only summer.

Summer water supply personal plot, dacha, garden is used for watering plants, filling an artificial reservoir, supplying water to a shower, bathhouse, summer kitchen and other household needs. In winter, such a water supply system is not used.

Summer water supply can be dismountable or permanent.

Summer collapsible water supply

If you choose a collapsible water supply system, the pipes or hoses simply lie on the ground or are raised above it. Such a water supply can be easily assembled from ordinary silicone or rubber hoses, connecting them together with plastic or steel adapters.

There are special clamps on sale that have a ribbed cone for the hose on one side, and a convenient elastic connector on the other, allowing you to connect and disconnect the hoses in one movement. Such latches create a strong joint.

The advantages of a summer collapsible water supply include:

Quick assembly and disassembly.
Quickly find a damaged pipe and repair the hole.
The cost of a collapsible water supply is lower than a stationary one.

Disadvantages of summer collapsible water supply:

Pipes interfere with movement.
High probability of theft.
The need for assembly and disassembly at the beginning and end of the watering season.

Stationary summer water supply

Permanent water supply is laid underground. For these purposes, you can use thick-walled rubber hoses or plastic pipes. Plastic water pipe in a summer cottage they are laid at an angle to the drain valve near the water supply. Before the onset of cold weather, the remaining water from the pipeline is completely pumped out to avoid freezing and damage to the pipes.

For a permanent summer water supply scheme, pipes are placed in the ground at a shallow depth, and water taps are brought to the surface.

Advantages of a stationary country water supply:

The pipes are located underground and do not interfere with walking or transporting cargo on a cart.
Installation of summer water supply is carried out once.
The underground location of the pipes serves as protection against theft.
Easy preparation of the system for winter, just open the drain valve and release all the water.

The disadvantages of a stationary summer water supply are:

Larger material costs than when constructing a collapsible water supply system.
Labor-intensive installation of water supply due to the need to dig trenches and lay pipes at an angle.
Difficulty finding and repairing a hole in a pipe.

How to make a summer plumbing plan

Before you purchase pipes and begin assembling them, you need to think over a plan diagram and draw up a preliminary drawing, specifying all dimensions in detail. You should decide in advance: where to supply the water, where the water intake points will be located, how many connections will be needed.

Then, using pegs and twine, the future water supply route is divided into plot of land, measure and calculate the required footage of pipes, the number of angles, tees, taps and others Supplies. In any case, a small supply of components will not hurt. Good plan- the key to success, saving effort, time and money.

The project should indicate existing and planned underground communications, paths, buildings, and plantings, especially if a permanent summer water supply system is being installed. When installing a stationary summer water supply, trenches are prepared for laying pipes. The laying depth of pipes is usually 30-40 cm.

However, if the pipes lie under the beds, and there is a possibility of them being damaged by a shovel or cultivator, then the depth of the trench is increased to 50-70 cm. This is a labor-intensive process, but replacing broken pipes and eliminating leaks is even more difficult. Pipes reach the surface of the earth only in places where water is supplied.

When planning a permanent water supply, it is important to remember that all pipes in the trench are laid at a slope towards the connection to the water intake. A drain valve is installed at the very bottom of the pipeline. This will allow you to drain the water for the winter and avoid damage to the pipes. It is necessary to determine in advance the places for supplying water.

The number of consumption points depends on the location of the beds, greenhouse, summer shower, bathhouse, and swimming pool. In order not to carry the hose from place to place, it is wiser to remove the pipes at 5-10 points. Hose sections 3-5 m long are connected to such hydrants, which ensures watering of each individual zone. A bayonet mount for quick connection of a hose or an automatic spray system is installed at all consumption points.

Before cutting off hoses or sawing pipes, you should carefully measure the required length with a tape measure, mark them with a marker, and only then begin cutting. This approach, according to the principle of measure seven times and cut once, will save you from annoying mistakes and additional costs.

What materials, devices and tools are required for arranging a summer water supply system?

To install a summer water supply at your summer cottage you will need following materials and tools:

Pipes and hoses.
Fittings and tees.
Compression couplings with external thread (20; 1/2).
Adjustable wrench, gas wrench, wrenches No. 17-24.
A special cutter for plastic water pipes or a hacksaw for metal.
Shovel.
Soldering iron. If you plan to connect pipes by welding, use a special one instead of fittings and a gas wrench electric soldering iron. Soldering irons are inexpensive, and in some construction stores They are even available for rent.
Ball valve 1/2.
Compression angle 20 mm.
Compression tee 20 mm.
Saddle 63 (1/2).
Fumnitka.
Adjustable wrench, gas wrench and spanners No. 17-24.
Sanding paper.
Knife, tape measure, pencil.

Pipes

Pipes for assembling a summer water supply system on an average dacha plot of 10 acres are preferable to plastic or polyethylene (diameter 20-25 mm, length 100 m). Reliable uninterrupted water supply largely depends on the quality of the pipes. Green polypropylene pipes from Banninger with a diameter of 25 mm have proven themselves well. They are more expensive than traditional white pipes, but they are resistant to temperature changes and can withstand even frosts.

Hoses

Instead of pipes, you can use hoses.

Rubber hoses with thick walls reinforced with nylon fibers are stronger and more durable; they will reliably serve for 15 years.

Fittings and tees

The routing of summer water supply pipes is carried out using tees, and special fittings are best suited for connecting plastic pipes. Using fittings allows you to assemble a country water supply system in just one day. In this case, the joint is sealed, and if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

Diagram of a collapsible summer water supply system made from hoses

The simplest design is a summer water supply made from flexible hoses. The collapsible hose system is quite simple. With the onset of heat, the hoses are connected to the pump and laid on the surface of the ground so that they do not interfere with free movement around the summer cottage.

Hoses come in rubber and silicone. To connect them, purchased or home-made devices are used: steel and plastic adapters, jumpers, pieces of pipes or special latches that allow you to quickly separate or connect two sections of water supply. On one side they have a spring connector, and on the other - a “ruff”. This type of clamp provides a strong and reliable connection.

Nowadays they produce non-twisting hoses with special reinforcement. There are corrugated hoses that can stretch to a considerable length and are very compact when compressed.

Hoses and components for drip irrigation are now on sale.

Basically, water supply from hoses is used for watering in the country. In autumn, the hoses and pump are folded and put away indoors.

The procedure for assembling a summer water supply system

Determine where to place the conclusions: the entrance to the greenhouse, a platform for a car, an outdoor shower, a washbasin, a swimming pool, a flower garden, etc. It is more convenient to attach and remove the hose at an intersection or on a wide path.

Measure the distance and calculate the required pipe length. Plastic or polyethylene pipes are best suited for arranging summer water supply. They are conveniently connected using flexible hoses. This design of the water supply system can be easily altered if necessary. You can connect pipes with special plastic fittings or by soldering. In addition, to assemble a summer water supply you will need tees, taps, and angles.

It is advisable to bury the pipes in order to preserve them and increase their service life.

Check the pressure in the pipeline. If water flows from a tap that is fully open under good pressure, then pipes with a small cross-section - 20 mm - are sufficient. At low pressure (less than 2 bar), you should not install more than three outlet points, as they will not be able to work simultaneously. At low pressure, it is recommended to take a larger pipe - with a cross-section of 25 mm. Larger cross-section pipes are also used on large sections of more than 30 m in length.

As a rule, at the junction of the central line and the section pipeline, an inlet tap or valve with a diameter of 1/2 (marking 15) is installed with internal thread.

The HDPE pipe is attached to the inlet tap using a coupling. If the faucet has an internal thread, then the coupling has an external thread, and vice versa.

A tee is placed at the fork of the pipe, from the tee - a piece of pipe, onto which a hose is put through a tap with an adapter. For a pipeline with a diameter of 20mm, the following kit is suitable:

coupling with external thread 20 mm by 3/4,
3/4 tap with external or internal thread,
adapter for 3/4 internal thread hoses.

For pipes with a cross-section of 25 mm, the following components are used:

The faucet is made from the same HDPE 25 by 3/4.
Adapter for hoses with 3/4 external thread.

You will also need:

Coupling for the inlet valve.
Tees.
Kits for attaching hoses at outlet points.
Pipes.
Fum tape for sealing threaded connections.
Bends for installation at pipe turning points.

First of all, collect everything threaded connections.

The main task when assembling threaded connections is to prevent leaks. In a threaded connection, there is an external thread on one side and an internal thread on the other. The fum tape is wound tightly and without folds along the external thread in 6-8 layers clockwise (thread facing up). Then they screw in the parts, pressing one tightly against the other, being careful not to distort them. Then lightly tighten with a gas wrench.

To secure it in the coupling, the pipe is cut evenly with a knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw to obtain a smooth edge. Loosen the clamping nut slightly. Insert the pipe tightly. In this case, the pipe, at a depth of approximately 5 cm, first rests against the rubber sealing ring inside the coupling. It is necessary to push the pipe another 2 cm further so that the pipe passes through the ring all the way. Then tighten the clamping nut by hand.

The hose can be connected to the water supply using quick-release couplings. Couplings come in various modifications, the main thing is that they match the diameter of the hose. All kinds of watering guns and sprayers are sold complete with couplings.

Couplings with an aquastop are very convenient, which shuts off the water when disconnecting or replacing the sprinkler or gun, which eliminates the need to turn off the tap.

The summer water supply can be equipped with a timer, and then watering will be carried out according to a schedule, even in the absence of the owners.

Year-round water supply

Most often, water is supplied from a well using a submersible pump. The pump power is selected depending on the depth of the well. For a depth of 10 m, “Aquarius” or “brook” is suitable. To draw water from a well, you will need a much more powerful pump.

When installing a year-round water supply in a country house, the pump is connected to a voltage source, and the cable and water supply are laid together in a single casing assembled from plastic sewer pipes. The casing serves to protect the water supply from mechanical damage and freezing.

The depth of the trench for laying the water supply must be below the freezing level of the soil. Digging such a trench is a labor-intensive task. You can make the task easier by digging a trench to a depth of 60 cm, and pouring a layer of insulation 20-30 cm thick on top of the pipe. Sufficiently durable materials with low moisture absorption are used as insulation: foam chips, polyethylene, furnace slag, expanded clay.

A pit of 70x70 cm and a depth of 1 m is dug near the well. The pit is used to connect the pump to the water supply, and, if necessary, quickly disconnect and remove the pump. The walls of the pit are lined with bricks or reinforced with boards antiseptic impregnation. The bottom is flooded concrete mortar or covered with crushed stone and compacted. A water pipe with a “brush” for the hose connected to the pump, as well as an electrical cable, are brought into the pit and secured.

To prevent the water in the pump hose from freezing, the pit is insulated. A small drain hole with a diameter of about 1 mm is made in the lower part of the water supply system, thanks to which the water in the water supply system slowly flows into the pit and does not freeze in winter.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the constant humidity in the pit and insignificant loss of water.

To safely turn the pump on and off, install a waterproof socket or use a sealed contact connector.

In outdoor conditions, ordinary taps with faucets are most often installed, or even better, bronze or cast iron valves. It is undesirable to use ball valves; they quickly fail under the influence of precipitation and temperature fluctuations.

The most complex unit of a year-round water supply system is the “fontal” water distribution unit, located in an unheated room. Most often used for such purposes special devices- water taps. A significant disadvantage of the column is the high cost of equipment and the complexity of installation.

How to install an autonomous water supply

If there is a central pipeline, then installing a summer water supply system on your site is not difficult. Autonomous water supply is a more complex task.

Ideally, a diagram of an autonomous water supply system is drawn up in parallel with the design of the house and site: the location of pipes and mechanisms is determined, a step-by-step plan is carried out, estimates are calculated, and equipment is purchased. For the boiler and water meter unit, a small room with an area of 2-3 m² is usually allocated on the ground floor. It is convenient to monitor and regulate the water supply process if the technical unit and the water input unit are installed in the same room.

The autonomous water supply system includes the following equipment:

Pipes (metal, metal-plastic, polypropylene).
Fittings and taps.
Water-lifting equipment (pumping station, submersible pump).
Devices for regulating pressure in the water supply system (pressure gauge, pressure switch, hydraulic accumulator or expansion tank).
Electrical equipment with automatic protection.
Filters for purifying water from harmful impurities and suspended particles.
Water heater (preferably storage).

Installation of pumping equipment

A pre-prepared well, a spring chamber, or a well are used as a source of water. Each source has advantages and disadvantages. For example, the water in a well is cleaner, but drilling is expensive. It is much cheaper to dig a well and install a submersible pump with a three-stage filter to purify the water.

There are the following types of pumping equipment for drawing water from a source:

Submersible pump.
Surface pump.
Automatic pumping station.

Submersible pump

Used at a water level of 20 m, operates silently. Pump models with a check valve additionally require a hydraulic accumulator, a filtration unit, an automatic unit and a distribution unit with fittings. For contaminated water sources, it is recommended to choose a pump with a stainless metal impeller.

Surface pump

Used when the water level is less than 8 m. Installed indoors, connected to the well with a supply pipe.

Automatic pumping station

The electric motor and hydraulic part are separated by a partition. A generator, diesel or gasoline, is used to pump groundwater and water the site. The station includes: a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and an automation unit. The hydraulic accumulator serves as a reserve reservoir and limits the frequent activation of the pump. Inexpensive stations are noisy, so it is better to install new generation pumping equipment.

Installation of a stationary summer water supply

To install a permanent structure, plastic or polyethylene HDPE pipes are used, which are connected with flexible hoses.

This connection allows you to easily and quickly remake and improve the entire pipeline system. Another installation method is welding using an electric soldering iron or connecting with special plastic fittings. The pipes are laid in shallow grooves (30-35 cm) and backfilled.

Only cranes lead to the surface of the earth. Advantages: no obstacles when walking, mowing the lawn and using a cart, more aesthetically pleasing. If desired, pipes or hoses can be easily dug out and disassembled. The disadvantage of underground construction is that there is a possibility of accidental damage to the system during excavation work.

To make it easy to drain water from the pipeline in the fall, create slight slope for draining. A valve is installed in the lowest part of the water supply: through which the drain is carried out, so that in winter the frozen water does not rupture the pipes and hoses.

It is especially important to ensure the safety of the electrical network. For this purpose, sealed connectors and moisture-proof sockets are used.

Any type of water supply system, summer collapsible or permanent, should be made in such a way that an unexpected breakdown can be easily eliminated without resorting to complete dismantling of the water supply system.

How to assemble a summer water supply from plastic pipes

When installing a summer water supply in conditions of positive air temperatures and using only cold water, almost all types of polypropylene pipes are suitable. The service life of PN-10 pipes, designed to supply water with a temperature of 30°C and a working pressure of 11.1 kgf/cm 2, is 50 years; PN-20 pipes, designed for transporting hot water at 60°C at an operating pressure of 10.9 kgf/cm 2, will last even longer.

It is better to make the main part of the summer water supply from 25 mm pipes. Smaller diameter pipes do not provide structural rigidity. 2 m long pipes easily fit on the trunk of a car. To assemble the water supply system, straight and angular couplings are used. It is advisable to install a coarse filter at the entrance to the main line in the form of a separate unit or combined with a ball valve.

Summer water supply from HDPE pipes is the easiest to assemble and maintain. It is easy to assemble without special tools and does not deteriorate in winter (only the taps remain fully open during the winter).

To quickly disconnect the entire water supply from the central main, install a coupling with a union nut, the so-called “American”. This coupling allows necessary cases connect and disconnect both rigid and flexible lines without interfering with threaded connections in other parts of the pipeline. It will take several issues to consolidate watering hose and a separate outlet for domestic needs with 1/2 ball valves. Polypropylene pipes are connected to metal elements through combination adapter fittings that have a weld socket on one end and a thread on the other.

20 mm pipes are quite suitable for supplying water to the shower; they are attached to the wall of the utility room with plastic clips at intervals of 1 m.

Almost all summer water supply pipes are laid freely directly on the surface of the earth. There is no need for special means of protecting pipes from temperature deformation and stress.

Draining water from all summer water supply lines is organized as simply and conveniently as possible. It is advisable to install standard tees with plugs in the lowest places of the pipeline.

How to prepare plastic pipes for summer water supply assembly

If the topography of a summer cottage is uneven, when laying pipes in some places of the water supply, due to a slight bend, excessive stress is created. To eliminate the increased pressure, simply bend the pipe slightly using a hair dryer with a special nozzle.

When assembling the system, it is necessary to adjust polypropylene pipes to the required length. For cutting plastic pipes with a cross-section of up to 40 mm, special scissors are used. There are scissors for cutting pipes with a diameter of up to 75mm. But most often for plastic pipes 50 mm and larger, a roller cutter is used.

When working with a cutter, no additional processing of the ends of unreinforced pipes is required. If the installation volume is small, it is quite possible to cut plastic pipes with a regular hacksaw, electric jigsaw or "grinder".

Preparing trenches for summer water supply

The next stage of arranging the water supply is preparing the trench. Its depth depends on the location of the pipes: 15-20 cm is enough for a lawn, and 40-70 cm for beds. They start digging from the water source, then all the pipes are laid in the trench and securely connected to each other. After laying and joining the pipes, check the water supply for leaks. The water pipe should not be bent in short sections due to possible stagnation of water. After which they begin to connect the water taps.

Water intake devices

If the pipeline is intended to supply water to the greenhouse, then cast iron or bronze valves and taps with axle boxes are installed. It is not recommended to use ball valves, as they quickly fail.

The water distribution unit is the most complex device in the water supply system. It is installed in an unheated room or outdoors. The standpipe is used less frequently due to complex installation and high cost.

How a soldering iron works for welding plastic pipes

Domestic soldering irons of good quality and at a reasonable price are available for sale, equipped with a convenient metal suitcase, scissors for cutting pipes, a tape measure and gloves. There are also less expensive modifications - without additional equipment and with fewer attachments.

The welding machine-soldering iron for polypropylene and polyethylene pipes consists of three main parts:

Soldering iron with heating element (plate with heating element) and control unit (switches, temperature relay, indicators).
Replacement nozzles for heating pipes and fittings. They are bolted to the heating plate through special holes. The nozzles are made of aluminum alloy with anti-adhesive Teflon coating and require careful and gentle handling. Do not clean them with metal brushes or abrasives to avoid damaging the Teflon surface.
Stand for fixing the device during welding.

How to properly weld polypropylene pipes

Diffusion welding of polypropylene pipes occurs due to partial surface melting of the parts being connected when heated with welding machine. The operating temperature when welding polypropylene is 260°C. In order for the welding joint to be strong, the parts being welded must have the same properties. It is not recommended to weld pipes from different manufacturers.

Fittings and pipes of different brands differ in the softening speed and diameter tolerance. The welding process itself is not complicated and takes little time. You should strictly adhere to the time intervals allotted according to the instructions for each phase: heating - welding - cooling.

Both parts prepared for welding are simultaneously attached to the nozzles of the welding machine: the fitting is put on the mandrel nozzle, and the pipe is inserted into the coupling nozzle.

You cannot rotate or move the pipe and fitting during heating, so both parts are tried on relative to each other in advance and marked with colored markers for convenience. The heating time is counted after the pipe and fitting are put on the nozzles.

After heating is complete, the parts are removed from the nozzles and connected: the end of the pipe is inserted all the way into the fitting socket. The welding time begins from the moment the pipe is connected to the fitting. The connected parts are fixed and held motionless, preventing movement during the welding time indicated in the instructions.

Do not cool parts compressed air or cold water.

The final phase is cooling of the parts. During this period of time, until it cools completely and recovers mechanical strength parts must not load the connection.

After the cooling stage is completed, they begin welding the next joints or installing the assembled unit in the designated place. After testing the plumbing system, the pipes are covered with earth or left on the surface.

Outlets with taps are installed throughout the area, onto which a piece of hose of the required length is attached in one movement. Using a variety of sprinklers, you can water several places at once.

Rules for maintaining the summer water supply system

Along with the undeniable advantages of summer water supply, ease and speed of assembly, cost-effectiveness, there are also some disadvantages - for example, the need to drain water for the winter and maintain the slope of the pipes to the connection point. Otherwise, the water will freeze in the pipes and a defect in part of the water supply will form. To drain water, a special valve is installed at the lowest point of the system. It is necessary to choose the correct slope, otherwise the water pressure will be weak.

If the water supply is above ground, disassemble the structure and then store it indoors. It is necessary to periodically check the condition of pipes and connecting elements and, if necessary, replace individual parts.

When installing a permanent summer water supply, pipes and hoses are laid in the ground, with taps and switches brought to the surface. There is no need to bury the structure to great depth. It is enough to simply cover the pipeline with earth to ensure its safety and not create obstacles for walking.

What will the summer water supply at the dacha look like? simplest scheme from scrap materials or modern design with automatic control - everyone chooses for themselves. In any case, the arrangement of a water supply system at a summer cottage will fully justify the efforts and money spent. To paraphrase the classic: running water is not a luxury, but a means of irrigation. Thanks to the summer pipeline, water is supplied to the farthest corners of the garden, and then you can forget about heavy buckets and watering cans and spend the free time with family and friends.

When going to a dacha outside the city, few people are ready to completely give up the benefits of civilization, especially when it comes to running water. Agree, the importance of water supply to a summer cottage is difficult to overestimate.

Water is necessary for watering the garden and vegetable beds, as well as for solving everyday problems. What can we say about the use of household appliances that require connection to the water supply network. To arrange the water supply, you can hire specialists or do it yourself.

To make water supply at your dacha with your own hands, you must first decide on the source of water, select necessary equipment and materials, study the sequence of work. These are the questions we will help you solve.

For a better understanding of the water supply process, we illustrated the material with visual diagrams and photographs, and supplemented the information with video clips.

The installation of any water supply system begins with the selection of a water supply source. Although the choice is usually not great. It could be centralized system water supply, .

Not only its quality, but also the methods of constructing the entire water supply system, its technical complexity and cost depend on where the water will come from.

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Option 1. Water supply from a well

The simplest “old-fashioned” method is. Its depth depends on the occurrence of the aquifer - up to 10 - 20 meters, as a rule. Of course, you can use such water only if filters are installed. Well water is often contaminated with nitrates and heavy metals.

A summer water supply will be quite sufficient for basic household and agricultural needs on the scale of one summer cottage. But if you are used to comfort, use your dacha as a place to relax and want to use water in the same way as at home, within the city, then it is better to do it at your dacha.

Winter plumbing is a much more complex system. Everything must be taken into account - from the natural slope of the terrain to the depth of soil freezing. A pump is required to provide water pressure. In short, a winter-type country water supply system is no different from the water supply system for residential private houses.

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Construction of a typical plumbing system

The water supply system in a summer cottage consists of several elements:

pump equipment;
pipes and fittings;
pressure switch and pressure gauge;
draining device.

In addition to the above, the system may include other elements, such as storage tank, filters or heaters. Some components can be combined in one complex, for example, a pumping station.

Raise water from a well - choosing a pump

Water is supplied from a well or borehole using a pump. Choosing a pump is one of the most important tasks when planning the water supply of a summer cottage.

The choice of pump depends on:

depth of the well or borehole;
volume of consumption;
productivity of the well itself (discharge);
well diameter;
water pressure;
financial component.

Some of these parameters cannot be calculated exactly; rough estimates are made. To do this, it is better to consult with experienced craftsman so as not to make mistakes.

There are two types of pumps:

submersible;
surface.

The surface version is used only for pumping water from a well. It can be placed on the surface or inside the well, but float. Maximum depth, for which a surface pump is suitable - 8 m.

If your well is deeper or we are talking about a borehole, then this type of pump is not considered.

The pumping station combines several elements: a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and the pump itself

Drain valve for system preservation

There are situations when the water supply system has to be preserved, for example, during a long departure or repair. In such cases, all water should be drained from the system. To do this, immediately after the pump, that is, at the lowest point of the system, install drain valve.

If you turn off the pump and open the valve, the water will begin to flow in the opposite direction through the pipeline due to the slope. Sometimes they do it differently and install check valve and a bypass pipeline - bypass. This scheme is used when using water from deep wells and boreholes.

How to organize a sewer system for water disposal?

Since there is practically no central sewage system in dachas, you need to take care of an individual drainage solution Wastewater and liquid household waste. You can dig it the old fashioned way cesspool, but this does not meet sanitary standards. Yes, and such a pit will have to be cleaned often.

The design of the septic tank is based on the principle of wastewater treatment in several stages. For the septic tank to work correctly, all chambers, except the last one, must be completely sealed

The modern solution is . The simplest and most common method is a septic tank made of 2-3 concrete rings. Although there are more advanced technologies, such as the Eurocube, for example.

The task of the septic tank is to separate the solid component of the wastewater, and drain the relatively clean liquid component back into the ground. Thanks to such a system, you can get by with one call to a sewer truck every few years.

Step-by-step installation guide

In order to build a water supply system at your dacha yourself, you need to make preparatory work: make a plan, prepare tools and materials. Only after careful preparation can you begin laying the pipeline, connecting and installing internal wiring.

Step 1. Drawing up an action plan

You need to start work by drawing up detailed plan. If the planned scheme is complex, you cannot do without the help of a professional, because plumbing is a responsible matter.

If you decide to do it yourself, prepare all the information:

depth of soil freezing in your region;
depth of groundwater;
relief slope;
plan of existing communications indicating water intake points;
site plan with all buildings;
number of consumption points (water supply to the house, bathhouses, watering the garden, filling the pool, etc.).

First draw detailed diagram to scale. In addition to the usual site plan, draw a profile image of the pipeline and an isometric plan. This way you can take into account the slope when laying water pipes in your country house.

Everything needs to be written down in detail. connecting elements and fittings that will be used. This way you not only won’t forget to buy anything, but also won’t make mistakes during installation (+)

Freezing depth is one of the most important characteristics. It depends on how deep the pipes will have to be laid. Please note that the depth of laying pipes must be at least 20 cm greater than the depth of soil freezing at the lowest point of the site. A well can serve as an independent source for organizing a country water supply, but most often a well is chosen. It does not need to be pumped regularly and you can simply raise the water with a bucket if the power goes out

If you plan to pump water for drinking water, pipes must be purchased according to the appropriate category.

To lay pipeline sections, make turns and branches, you need to buy fittings according to a pre-made plan for the external and internal routes

There are several options for pumping water from a well: vibration pump type "Baby", drainage or pumping station. If you use the station, it is not necessary to buy an automation unit

Step #2. Preparing the necessary tools

When the diagram is ready, the materials have been calculated, you need to take care of necessary tools. Let's assume that you already have a well or a well, so you can skip the construction step.

Tools for installing winter water supply in the country:

shovel;
adjustable wrench;
gas key;
welding machine for pipes - “iron” (when using polypropylene);
roulette;
pipe cutter;
hacksaw;

Can buy ready set plumbing kit, which includes all the basic tools for installing plumbing. But you still have to purchase measuring tools separately and it’s better not to skimp on quality

If you plan to carry out electrical installation work yourself, then you need to expand your tool kit with a screwdriver, tester, wire cutters and other electrician tools.

Step #3. Water supply installation

To organize your work correctly, you need to know the correct order:

Carry out excavation work. Armed with a shovel, begin constructing trenches along the entire length of the water pipeline according to the drawn up plan.
Take care of the power supply to the pump. You need to dig a separate trench, lay an electrical cable and install an outlet to connect the pump.
Install the pump. Depending on its type, it can be located outside or immersed in the well;
Connect equipment to the pump: pressure switch, pressure gauge and hydraulic accumulator. Then securely connect the pipe leading to the consumption points.
Install the drain valve for possible preservation of the system.
Install the piping system along the bottom of the trench. Don't forget about insulating the pipes at this stage.
Remove external water points.
Connect the system and check its functionality. Special attention is given to pipe joints, as well as equipment connection points.
Fill the trench. They proceed to this stage if the system is operating stably and there are no leaks.
Install internal plumbing. Plastic pipes do not rust, so they can be recessed inside the walls. Install all faucets, plumbing fixtures, filtration systems and water heaters.

Well water must be purified. This is best done using flow filters or reverse osmosis systems. The latter provide complete purification from all impurities at the molecular level, but the cost of their installation and maintenance is much higher.

Step #4. Selecting a water heating device

To heat water in the country, you can use flow-type water heaters (gas or electric) and storage type (boiler).

Gas water heaters are very convenient, the water is heated in unlimited quantity, quickly and efficiently. And you can save on electricity. But, firstly, a gas pipeline in a dacha is a rare phenomenon, and gas cylinder There is no point in connecting the column, and secondly, the installation of the column should only be carried out by a qualified gas technician.

The volume of the boiler depends on the number of people who will use hot water. If you only wash your hands or dishes, a 50 liter unit will be enough, but in order to take a shower, you need to install at least an 80 liter tank

Electric heaters can be installed and dismantled at any time, this is their advantage. However, in terms of heating speed they are inferior to gas flow columns.

Electric boiler – the best option for use in the country. Hot water It’s always available, it’s inexpensive, and any novice craftsman can install it.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

In order to understand how to lay a water supply system in a country house, watch these visual video tutorials. You will learn from them how to install a water supply system from a well, a water well, and also how to make it in a country house summer option water supply

Video review of laying a water pipeline with surface pump from the well:

Are you trying to install your own country water supply or have successful experience in implementing water supply? Or maybe you don’t agree with the material presented? We look forward to your comments and questions. The contact form is located below.

N The need for water supply in a dacha or personal plot is obvious. Here we will look at how to make water supply in your country house/garden with your own hands, taking into account operation at different times of the year.

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For water supply installations, you can use plastic pipes with soldered connections or special plastic fittings. A special electric soldering iron is used for soldering connections. It is not particularly expensive, about 2,000 rubles, and in addition, specialized stores selling pipes and accessories for these soldering irons often provide rental services for such soldering irons. To lay the pipeline, you will need a soldering iron for no more than one day. To make connections on fittings, a soldering iron is not needed; such connections can be assembled, as they say, “with your bare hands.”

For an ordinary dacha, pipes with a diameter of twenty, or at most twenty-five millimeters, are sufficient.

Do-it-yourself summer plumbing

First, let's look at the construction of a water supply system, which is supposed to be used only in the summer, that is, summer water supply in a country house, garden, or personal plot. This type of water supply is mainly used for watering plants, connecting summer shower, current household needs. It is not intended to be used in winter. Summer water supply can be either permanent or collapsible.

The most common summer water supply in the country is pipes (hoses) lying directly on the ground. You can make such a water supply from ordinary silicone or rubber hoses, which are connected with adapters. Connecting adapters are commercially available; they are made of plastic (see photo) or galvanized steel (the latter are better, but more expensive). There are also special latches on sale. On one side they have “ruffs” onto which the hose is put, and the other side is a convenient spring-loaded connector; such latches connect and disconnect in one movement and provide a reliable joint. As you can see, there is no difficulty, the only thing when buying hoses is to buy rubber ones with thick walls, reinforced with nylon fibers. Such a hose is more expensive than a plastic one, but it will last at least fifteen years.

For a permanent summer water supply scheme at the dacha, pipes are laid in the ground with your own hands, bringing only water taps to the surface. The depth of placement of the pipes is small; it is enough to just cover them a little with earth, so as not to trip yourself and, of course, to protect them from theft in the absence of the owners.