1. Layout development

The tasks were as follows: try to make handrails, make steering wheels for davits, stop anchors, ladders, anchor chains, ladders for pipes, five-pointed stars and a double-headed eagle
Drew in CorelDRAW. On the model, I made all the lines at least 0.18 mm thick, only on 4 lines for the experiment I made 0.10 mm (looking ahead, I will say that I was not able to feel the difference here).

This is what happened:

At the end, to “clog” the free space, I printed a steering wheel and a star from symbolic fonts. I was too lazy to pull the sprues to them.

2. Preparation of materials

I diluted ferric chloride in a mayonnaise jar (poured a third of the jar of powder and filled two-thirds with boiled water (warm)). It said on the can: “Dilute 1 to 3,” but I decided not to bother with that.
I chose ferric chloride as the most affordable. for me (I came across the RADIO PARTS store sooner than HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES) You can also poison with copper sulfate, hydrochloric acid with hydroperite, and nitric acid.

Cut from copper? (maybe some kind of alloy, because it was wildly springy) a piece of foil about 0.2 mm thick according to the size of the master and carefully cleaned it.

3. Transferring the layout to foil

The printer, as luck would have it, printed disgustingly. I just refilled his cartridge and, apparently, the remnants of spilled toner were making themselves felt...

But there is nothing to do - I chose a more or less clean place on the sheet and placed it there.

I cut out an A4 sheet from the ORACAL film backing, the master printed it on it and ran to iron it.
I placed foil on top of the printout and ironed it through a couple of sheets of paper with an iron (at maximum heat) for about two minutes. The master didn’t fit on a piece of foil :(, but that’s okay...

Again, I used film backing due to availability. Many people use glossy magazines and even aluminum foil - there is a lot of room for experimentation. I was afraid to push the foil into the printer in case the edges scratched the drum.

4. Etching

This is where I made my biggest mistake. It was necessary to cover the other side of the foil. The articles advised to paint over it with nitro or seal it with tape. True, someone warned that it would be difficult to remove parts from the tape, but I was reluctant to paint, due to the smell and loss of time, and the film was “at hand.” “It will lag behind in the solvent,” I decided, and, without thinking twice, covered it with white ORACAL, deciding that the etching process would be clearly visible on white.

I poured the ferric chloride solution from a mayonnaise jar into a plastic food tray (a commonly available analogue of a photo cuvette) and put foil there.

The etching process is boring as hell. To speed it up, I blew on the solution, creating a flow. Apparently this should not have been done. It seemed to me that the etching went faster where I was blowing, with all the sad consequences.

The plate was etched unevenly

Apparently there were several reasons: my “blowing”, and errors in the development of the master, and the bending of the plate. As a result, the rails began to “disappear” in the middle due to lateral etching, while the ladders had not yet been etched all the way through.

To avoid all this, it is necessary that the plate is positioned horizontally and the solution is mixed as evenly as possible. The etching surface must be thoroughly sanded/polished and degreased.

Having decided to wash the finished rails under water and cut them off, I made a second mistake - some of the lines were washed away, along with some of the steering wheels, to which I was too lazy to attach the sprues.

I managed to separate the parts from the film with great difficulty. Rubbing with acetone did nothing. The rails were torn during separation. I threw the small things entirely into acetone. The film fell off, but the glue layer swelled to 1 mm thickness and did not want to dissolve. It was one o'clock in the morning, and I just wiped it off with my fingers...

Then I found out that I needed gasoline for it.. Here's what happened:

But in the future my choice is transparent NC varnish.

In conclusion, I want to say: I was pleased with the experiment. Despite the fact that the parts consisted of more or less only stop anchors and a few steering wheels, I gained “invaluable” experience and a firm belief that etching at home is possible and necessary. The whole process took me 3 hours. I consider the costs of materials to be insignificant - the foil was inherited from the pantry, ferric chloride will still come in handy.

Here are some conclusions that I drew for myself:

The development of the master largely determines the quality of future parts. If possible, you should not place complex (ladders with handrails) and simple (handrails) elements together. Don’t get carried away with small details (it was completely in vain that I made buttresses in the anchor chains, although the ladders came out fine).
It is necessary to achieve uniform etching of all areas; this is the key to quality.

In the future I plan to experiment with “volumetric” etching.

I will be happy to hear advice and criticism of my actions.

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you will need a dielectric bath; it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To etch a pattern on metal, you must use iron sulfate. If the design is needed on a copper or brass surface, then use it. You can also use it. The main thing is that the water is distilled.

Preparing the part for etching

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and also degreased. For more convenient work, copper wire is soldered onto the part with tin; it will be convenient to hold the object by it. To clean the surface, you need to dip the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50°C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water. When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

Electrochemical etching of metal

We need to protect areas that should not be etched. To do this, you need to apply a special mastic to these surface areas. It is made from three parts of wax and two parts of rosin, they are melted in a tin can, stirring. After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze so that later, when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After this, the workpiece that we will etch heats up. Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes hard. The top is coated with light water-soluble paint. This can be watercolor or gouache white. After which the coating should dry. Then you can apply the design; it will stick well to the paint. It can be depicted using a pencil or translated using carbon paper. Then this outline needs to be scratched with a needle all the way to the metal.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. We connect the part on which the image will be applied to the first, and any steel plate to the second. After this, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked each time, and when the smallest of them have been etched to the required depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In this process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Chemical etching

Now let's look at how to create a pattern on a metal surface without the use of electrical devices. To do this, we need chemicals that are freely sold in hardware stores. So, let's begin. For etching we need:

"White Spirit";
paint that does not dissolve in White Spirit;
acetone;
resin, which is used to cover roofs;
table salt;
copper sulfate.

Cleaning the part

To begin with, the part where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased. When the surface is ready, you need to seal the place where the design will be applied with adhesive tape or something similar. After this, the entire remaining surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

Once the paint is dry, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is clean metal, ready to create a design on it. Now you need to apply an image onto this “mini-canvas”. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. Use it to paint the desired image using a brush. What’s good about this kind of improvised paint is that if something doesn’t work out in the drawing, you can remove it by moistening a cloth or cotton swab in White Spirit. If there are very small details in the drawing that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can begin the etching itself.

Etching solution

We need a liter of water, in which we need to dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate, and then add salt. It needs to be sprinkled until it stops dissolving. The resulting mixture will have a blue color. However, after a metal object is immersed in it, the color will begin to change to green.

So, let's dive into the detail. The chemical process begins immediately. In all this production, no substances harmful to health are released, so this metal etching at home is safe.

Actions during a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque forms, which will become more and more numerous. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water. You should not do this using various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint. But it seems to hold the entire design, and it would be a shame if, while etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the design on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal remains in the solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must observe the progress of the chemical reaction himself. And only after doing this several times will it be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed to develop the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical etching of metal at home include the fact that the created pattern is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires an electrical device, which not everyone may have.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at a hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look anywhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the disadvantage is the imperfect edges of the pattern.

Chemical solutions for pickling iron and steel

The simplest effective solutions for etching iron and steel parts are dilute inorganic acids, especially 20% sulfuric acid, in which etching is carried out at 45-50 ° C, or 20-25% hydrochloric acid, in which parts are etched at room temperature. For etching, 10-15% phosphoric acid is also used, heated to 60-70°C. Parts are etched in it, which will then be varnished or their surface will be left without further processing. If, after etching, galvanic coating of the surface is provided, then this bath is unsuitable.

Chemical etching of non-ferrous metal surfaces

Etching copper and brass

On brass the solution forms a light yellow coating, on copper it forms a light pink coating. The solution contains:

Concentrated nitric acid 250 ml;
- Concentrated hydrochloric acid 150 ml;
- Denatured ethyl alcohol 100 ml;
- Water 500 ml.

The parts are etched by briefly immersing them in a bath of solution, after which they are removed and immediately washed with water.

Brushed copper etching

After etching on copper, you will get a rough (to matte) surface. Bath composition:

Nitric acid 40% 600 g;
- Concentrated sulfuric acid 400 g;
- Sodium chloride 3 g;
- Zinc sulfate 2 g.

Brilliant etching of copper and its alloys

Concentrated sulfuric acid 500 ml;
- Concentrated nitric acid 500 ml;
- Concentrated hydrochloric acid 10 ml;
- Soot 5 g.

The operating temperature of the bath is 18-20°C. The degreased parts are immersed in a bath of solution for 10-30 s, after which they are removed, washed with water and dried.

Solution for etching aluminum and its alloys

The aqueous solution contains:

Sodium fluoride 40 g/l;
- Caustic soda 50 g/l.

The operating temperature of the bath is 70-80°C, the processing time is about 1 minute.

Another aqueous solution contains

Chromium oxide 30 g/l;
- Concentrated sulfuric acid 150 g/l;
- Operating bath temperature 70°C, treatment time 1-1.5 minutes;

The simplest way to decoratively paint steel products

The electrochemical method can be used to paint steel products in any color. If the paint layer is varnished, it will reliably protect the product from corrosion. The solution in which steel products are painted includes the following components:

Copper sulfate 60 g;
- Refined sugar 90 g;
- Caustic soda 45 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Copper sulfate is dissolved in 200-300 ml of distilled water, then sugar is added to the resulting solution. Separately, caustic soda is dissolved in 250 ml of water and a solution of copper sulfate and sugar is added to it in small portions (with stirring). After mixing these two solutions, add distilled water to 1 liter. The part is cleaned, polished and degreased in a solution used for nickel plating, and then thoroughly washed in warm water. An additional electrode is made from red copper (preferably grades M0, M1). The part and electrode are connected to a flashlight battery (or other 4-6 V DC source), and the copper electrode should be connected to the plus of the battery, and the part to the minus. First, the copper electrode is lowered into the solution, and then the part. After 5-10 s, the battery is turned off, and coloring continues without electric current. While in the solution for 2 to 25 minutes, the part is painted in the following colors (in the order of their appearance): brown, purple, blue, cyan, light green, yellow, orange, red-lilac, greenish-blue, green, pink-red . The part can be removed from the solution (checking the color) and put back into the solution - the process will proceed normally. When the part is kept in the solution for more than 25-30 minutes, the process is repeated cyclically many times.

As the electrolyte evaporates, distilled water is added to the bath, since increasing the electrolyte concentration worsens the quality of the color. To obtain more contrasting colors, add 20 g of sodium carbonate (anhydrous soda) to the finished electrolyte. If the painting is unsuccessful, the film can be easily removed by wiping the part with ammonia. The painted parts are washed with water, dried and coated with colorless varnish.

A simple way to decorate an aluminum surface to look like mother-of-pearl

The aluminum surface is cleaned with a metal brush, making small strokes in different directions (creating a certain pattern). Chips and dirt are removed from the surface with a clean rag. A clean aluminum surface is coated with an even layer of 10% caustic soda solution (working temperature of the solution is 90-100°C). After the solution dries, a beautiful film with a pearlescent tint forms on the aluminum surface. For better preservation, the film is coated with colorless varnish. A more beautiful film is obtained if the product or part is heated to 80-90°C before applying the caustic soda solution.

Chemical method of brightening products and parts made of silumin (restoration)

Products and parts made of silumin (an alloy of aluminum and silicon) are quickly covered with an oxide film of dark tones. However, they can remain shiny for a long time if they are lightened. Products or parts are cleaned and, if necessary, polished, then degreased, washed and immersed for 10-20 minutes in the following solution:

Chromic anhydride 100 g;
- Concentrated sulfuric acid 10 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

The working temperature of the solution is 18-20°C.

After lightening, the products and parts are washed and dried, and so that the surfaces of the products and parts do not oxidize for a long time, they are coated with colorless varnish.

What you need to know about polishing steel and non-ferrous metals

Polishing is used to improve the cleanliness of the surface of parts and devices, and to eliminate traces of previous processing (strokes, scratches, small dents and tiny irregularities). There are two types of polishing - preliminary and final. Pre-polishing is used to mechanically remove surface irregularities with loose abrasives (in a free state) or grains fixed on the working surface of a polishing wheel. Final polishing is carried out with fine grinding powders or soft elastic wheels with thin polishing pastes applied to them. The finest surface finish is achieved by rubbing a piece of felt or woolen cloth coated with a special metal polishing paste. After polishing, the surface acquires a mirror shine.

Lime paste is used for polishing nickel, brass, aluminum and other metals, its composition (in%) is as follows:

Vienna lime 71.8;
- Ceresin 1.5;
- Stearic acid 2.3;
- Solid oil T 1.5;
- Turpentine 2.2;

Composition of paste (in%) for polishing steel and other metals:

Paraffin 20;
- Stearin 10;
- Technical lard 3;
- Micropowder M50 67;

Note

Waxy and liquid materials are mixed and heated in a water bath (or over low heat). Then the dry ingredients are mixed into the hot mass.

GOI pastes are intended for polishing steel and other metals and are chromium oxide mixed with waxy substances. Pastes are produced in three grades: coarse, medium and fine. In the absence of chrome paste, you can successfully use chromium oxide oil paint diluted with kerosene. Crocus paste (iron oxide) is sold in stores in ready-made form (in dentures it is used under the name “gold paste”). Crocus paste is used for polishing brass, bronze, silver and other metals. Glitter powder diluted with machine oil is used for fine polishing of metals.

Chemical method of polishing metals

Metals can be polished chemically, i.e. by simply immersing a part or object in a bath of polishing solution without the use of electric current. For this purpose, you can use porcelain glasses or baths. The polishing solution consists of the following substances:

Concentrated phosphoric acid 350 ml;
- Concentrated nitric acid 50 ml;
- Concentrated sulfuric acid 100 ml;
- Copper sulfate or nitrate 0.5 g.

The operating temperature of the bath is 100-110°C. Polishing time from 0.5 to 4 minutes. Polishing produces choking fumes, so the bath should be kept in a fume hood or outdoors.
This solution polishes aluminum and its alloys well. It is also suitable for polishing other metals, but the operating conditions (polishing time, temperature) must be different.

CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF METALS

Chemical nickel plating of steel, copper, brass and bronze products
Parts made of steel and copper alloys can be chemically coated with nickel. This coating not only protects parts well from corrosion and gives them a beautiful appearance, but also has increased wear resistance. Another advantage of chemical nickel plating is that nickel is evenly deposited on all, including internal, surfaces of parts.
The part to be decorated with nickel plating must be prepared in an appropriate way: sanded, polished and degreased. Steel parts are degreased in a solution containing 20-30 g of caustic potassium (or caustic soda), 25-50 g of soda ash and 5-10 g of liquid glass (silicate glue) per 1 liter of water; copper - in a solution containing (for the same amount of water) 100 g of trisodium phosphate and 10-20 g of liquid glass. Before nickel plating, copper parts must be kept on the iron for 0.5-1 minutes. It should also be borne in mind that alloys containing more than 1-2% lead or cadmium are not amenable to chemical nickel plating.

Degreasing of steel and copper parts at room temperature ends after 40-60 minutes, at a temperature of 75-85°C - after 20-30 minutes. Then the part is thoroughly washed in running water and immersed for 0.5-1 min in a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid to remove the oxide film, after which it is washed again in water and immediately transferred to the nickel plating solution. 30 g of nickel chloride and 10 g of sodium acetate are dissolved in 1 liter of water heated to 60°C. Then the temperature is brought to 80°C, 15 g of sodium hypophosphate is added - and the solution is ready. The part is immersed in it, the temperature is raised to 90-92°C and maintained at this level until the end of the nickel plating process. At lower temperatures, the speed of the process slows down sharply, and when heated above 95°C, the solution may deteriorate.

The required amount (volume) of solution depends on the area of the part to be nickel-plated. The ratio of this area (in square decimeters) to the volume of the solution (in liters) should be in the range of 2.5-3.5.
So, for example, at S/V=3 in 1 hour the thickness of the nickel layer will be 10 μm.

The chemicals used are not toxic, degreasing and nickel plating are not accompanied by the release of harmful gases.
Chemical copper plating of steel and cast iron parts

Quite easily, copper is chemically deposited on iron, steel and cast iron. The coverage is satisfactory.

To coat these metals, a solution of the following substances is prepared:

Copper sulfate 8-50 g;
- Concentrated sulfuric acid 8-50 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Operating temperature 18-20°C. After thorough cleaning and degreasing, the parts are immersed in the solution for a few seconds. Parts coated with copper are removed from the solution, washed with water and dried.

Chemical chrome plating of metals

Parts made of steel, copper and brass are chemically chrome plated in a solution containing:

Chromium fluoride 14 g;
- Sodium hypophosphate 7 g;
- Sodium citrate 7 g;
- Glacial acetic acid 10 ml;
- Caustic sodium (20% solution) 10 ml;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Operating temperature is about 80°C. Cleaned and degreased parts are metallized within 3-8 hours. When chemically chrome-plating steel objects, it is recommended to first chemically coat them with copper. Parts with a deposited layer of chromium are washed in water and dried.

Electroless nickel plating of metals

The nickel plating solution consists of the following substances:

Nickel ammonium sulfate 50 g;
- Ammonium chloride 40 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

A small amount of zinc metal is added to the solution and stirred continuously.

Chemical dyeing of pewter items bronze

Pewter products can be easily painted bronze using a chemical method. Products are immersed in a solution or wiped with a cloth soaked in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Copper sulfate 25 g;
- Ferrous sulfate 25 g;
- Water up to 500 ml.

Then the product is dried, cleaned with a brush, wiped with a cloth and again immersed in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Copper acetate 100 g;
- Acetic acid 10% 400 ml.

After this, the product is dried. If desired, it can be polished and coated with clear varnish.

"Gold plating" of brass

Brass and products made from it quickly tarnish and oxidize in air. To protect highly polished products from oxidation, brass parts are often coated with a special golden varnish. A simpler and more accessible method is as follows: after thorough cleaning and polishing, the brass part is immersed in a 10-15% solution of some alkali to remove fat from its surface. Then the part is washed in water and immersed in a weak (2-3%) solution of sulfuric or hydrochloric acid for 1-2 s. Good results are obtained if brass is dipped in a solution of sodium bisulfite, then rinsed in water and dipped in a solution of copper acetate heated to 36-40°C.

Depending on the time the piece is in the solution, the brass will turn from a light golden color to a red gold color and even a reddish-violet hue. The color of the paint is monitored by removing the part from the solution from time to time. After painting, the part is washed with water and air dried. The color is permanent and does not change over time. Copper acetate is commercially available, but you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to dissolve 5 g of copper sulfate in 0.5 liters of water, then mix it with a solution of lead acetate (pharmacy lead lotion or lead sugar).

The second solution is made up of 8 g of lead acetate and 0.5 liters of water. When mixing the solutions, a precipitate of lead sulfate precipitates, and copper acetate remains in the solution. This solution will serve as the working solution. The precipitate can be filtered or left at the bottom of the vessel.

Copper gold coloring

4 g of caustic soda and 4 g of milk sugar are dissolved in 100 g of water, boiled for 15 minutes, then with constant stirring, 4 g of a solution of saturated copper sulfate is added in small doses. Well-cleaned copper products are immersed in the hot mixture. Depending on the duration of action, they acquire different colors - from gold, green to complete black.

Golden varnish for brass (passivation of brass)

When brass is passivated, a stable protective film similar to gold plating is formed. This film is not afraid of moisture, so fishermen passivate brass lures. The cleaned, polished and degreased part is dipped for 1 second in a solution prepared from 1 part nitric and 1 part sulfuric acid, and immediately transferred to a strong solution of potassium dichromate (chrompic) for 10-15 minutes.

After this, the part is washed and dried.

Chemical staining of brass

The cleaned, degreased and washed part is dipped into one of the following solutions.

1st solution:

Hyposulfite 11 g;
- Lead sugar 39 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

2nd solution:

10 g of sodium hydroxide and 10 g of milk sugar are dissolved in 250 ml of boiling water. Then, stirring continuously, add 10 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulfate to the solution.

Within 3-10 minutes, the part in one of the solutions turns golden, bluish, blue, violet and, finally, rainbow.

When the desired color is obtained, the part is removed, dried and polished with cloth.
Brass acquires a bluish-black color when the prepared part is immersed for 1-3 minutes in the following solution:

Ammonia (25% ammonia) 500 ml;
- Bicarbonate (or carbon dioxide) copper 60 g;
- Brass (sawdust) 0.5 g.

After mixing the components, the solution is shaken vigorously 2-3 times, after which the part is immersed in it.
Brass turns brown when the part is immersed in one of the following solutions.

1st solution:

Hyposulfite 50 g;
- Copper sulfate 50 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

2nd solution:

Sodium sulfide 100 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

Solution temperature 70°C.

3rd solution:

Lead acetate 30 g;
- Hyposulfite 90 g;
- Water up to 1 liter.

The solution temperature is 80-90°C.

To prepare the 3rd solution, you need to dissolve both substances separately in half the volume of water, then drain them together and heat to 80-90°C. After painting, the part is washed with warm water, dried and coated with colorless varnish.

A simple method of silvering

Spent hyposulfite (fixer) is used as a silvering compound, which is no longer suitable for fixing photographic films or photographic paper. The method is extremely simple. The copper part is cleaned to a shine, boiled in a soda solution and thoroughly washed with water. Then it is dipped into used hyposulfite. After some time, silver will settle on the part. After washing with water, the part is dried and polished with cloth. The quality of silver plating and the strength of adhesion of silver to copper depends on the concentration of silver in the hyposulfite solution.

Hot silvering of metal parts

Any metal can be silvered using this method. It consists of the following: a cleanly processed part is immersed on a zinc strip in a boiling solution consisting of the following components:

Potassium iron sulfide 120 g;
- Potash 80;
- Silver chloride 7.5 g;
- Distilled water up to 1 liter.

The silvering process ends after the surface of the part is completely covered with silver. The part is then removed from the solution, washed and polished. It should be remembered that when the solution boils, harmful substances are released, so boiling should be done in the open air or under a hood.

Chemical silver plating

1. Several sheets of Unibrom matte photographic paper are cut into pieces and dipped into a solution of fixing salt (the salt is diluted in the volume of water indicated on the package).

The cleaned and degreased part is placed in this solution and rubbed with an emulsion layer of paper until a dense layer of silver is formed on the surface of the part. After rinsing in warm water, wipe the part with a dry cloth.

2. Add 1-2 ml of ammonia and 2-3 drops of formaldehyde to 300 ml of used fixer (remaining after printing photographs) (the solution is stored and worked with only in the dark).
The cleaned and degreased part is placed in the solution for 0.5-1.5 hours, then washed in warm water, dried and wiped with a soft cloth.

Paste for silvering

Parts made of copper, bronze, brass, and copper-plated iron can be plated with silver using pastes.

1. Paste for silvering is prepared as follows: in 300 ml of distilled water or water obtained from ice in household refrigerators, dissolve 2 g of silver nitrate (lapis) and add a 10% solution of table salt to the solution until precipitation stops silver chloride precipitate. This precipitate is washed 5-6 times in running water. Separately, 20 g of hyposulfite and 2 g of ammonium chloride (ammonia) are dissolved in 100 ml of distilled water. Then silver chloride is added to the resulting solution in small doses until it stops dissolving. The resulting solution is filtered and mixed with finely ground chalk to the consistency of thick sour cream. The pre-degreased part is rubbed with a paste using cotton wool or gauze until a dense layer of silver is formed on its surface, after which the part is washed with water and wiped with a dry rag.

2. The polished and degreased part is rubbed with a cloth or a piece of soft leather, onto which a paste of the following composition has been applied:

Silver chloride 6 g;
- Table salt 8 g;
- Sour potassium tartrate (tartar) 8 g.

The listed substances are ground in a mortar and stored in a dark container; before use, the mixture is diluted with distilled water to obtain a liquid paste. When the part is covered with a layer of silver, it is washed in water and rubbed until shiny with soft flannel.

3. Paste for silvering is prepared as follows: pour 2 g of ammonia, 4 g of tartar and 1 g of silver nitrate (lapis) into a vessel, add a little distilled water until a semi-liquid slurry is obtained. Then, with a cloth with paste applied to it, the polished and degreased part is rubbed to a silver shine.

Chemical method of silvering non-metallic materials

Non-metallic parts, such as plastics, glass, ceramics, wood, etc., can also be metalized using a chemical method. The solution given below for silvering non-metallic materials gives very good results, especially when metallizing glass (silvering of mirror surfaces, vessels, incandescent lamp bulbs, reflectors for projection equipment, etc.).

The silver bath contains the following substances:

Composition A

Silver nitrate 12 g;
- Ammonium nitrate 18 g;

After complete dissolution of the substances, the solution is added with distilled water to 750 ml.

Composition B

Caustic soda (chemically pure) 19 g;
- Distilled water 500 ml.

After complete dissolution of caustic soda, the solution is added with distilled water to 750 ml.

Composition B

Sucrose 12.5 g;
- Tartaric acid 1.5 g;
- distilled water 125 ml;

The solution is boiled for 20 minutes, and then added with distilled water to 500 ml.

All solutions are stored separately in dark containers with ground-in stoppers.

The solution for silvering is prepared by mixing compositions A and B, to which composition B is added immediately before silvering. The parts intended for silvering are thoroughly cleaned in a hot soda solution, rinsed with running water and immersed in a bath with a freshly prepared solution. The working temperature of the solution is 18-20°C. Silvering time - 10 min. Metallization can be carried out two or three times in succession, but each time in a fresh solution. Silver-plated parts are dried at a temperature of 50°C for 1 hour, and at a temperature of 18-20°C for 24 hours. The silver layer can be easily removed from glass, porcelain or ceramics with nitric acid.

Chemical dyeing of silver objects purple

Silver or silver-plated objects acquire a purple color in a solution consisting of the following substances:

Anhydrous sodium sulfate 12.5 g;
- Sodium carbonate 5 g;
- Water 500 ml.

The solution is heated to 80°C and the object is immersed in it for a few seconds. The item is then allowed to dry. The surface of the object can be coated with transparent varnish.

Chemical solution for dyeing silver objects black
Silver or silver-plated objects become black after boiling them in a solution of sodium sulfate (100 g per 500 ml of water). After boiling in this solution, the objects are dried and coated with a clear varnish.

Hot gilding of metal products

Mix 20 g of nitric and 20 g of hydrochloric acid in a glass vessel. 1 g of gold is dissolved in this mixture. When the gold dissolves, 1 g of antimony chloride and 1 g of pure tin are added to the solution. The vessel with the solution is placed in hot water and boiled until the tin dissolves, after which 20 g of a saturated boric acid solution is added. Products intended for gilding are cleaned, polished and boiled in a solution of caustic potassium or soda. The solution is applied to the product with a brush; The dried product is heated over the flame of an alcohol lamp or over a charcoal fire. After heating, a good gilding is obtained that does not require polishing. Store the solution in a glass container with a ground-in stopper in a dark place.

Gold plating without an external current source Contact gold plating is used to obtain very dense and uniform coatings, characterized by high adhesion strength, and if a large coating thickness is not required. Electrolysis by this method does not require an external current source. The potential difference required for gold deposition is created by a galvanic cell, in which the cathode is the coated product, immersed in a gold-plating electrolyte, and the anode is a zinc plate located in a concentrated solution of table salt and connected to the product with a wire, as shown in Fig. 1. Any heated gold-plating electrolyte from those indicated in the table can be used for electrolysis.

Gilding by immersion is based on the creation of a potential difference at the boundary of the surface of the metal being coated and the adjacent electrolyte layer. Good quality coatings are formed only on brass or brass plated parts. Therefore, parts made of other metals are pre-brass-plated (minimum layer thickness 1-2 microns). The gilding process automatically stops when a gold layer about 0.1 microns thick is obtained, but the coating is dense, glossy and has good adhesion to the surface of the parts.

Compositions of solutions and operating modes for gilding using the immersion method

Removal of poor-quality gold coatings

To remove poor-quality coatings, gold-plated silver items are suspended as anodes in a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid at a temperature of 18-20°C. Iron or lead plates serve as cathodes. Anodic current density 0.1 - 1 A/dm?. Copper pendants. In addition, the gold coating can be removed in aqua regia. "Royal vodka" is a mixture of acids (50% nitric acid mixed in 50% hydrochloric acid). The mixture is used for etching copper, brass, iron, steel, zinc, etc. This solution acts on metals almost instantly; Corrosion and dirt disappear and the metal surface becomes shiny or, more often, matte. Jewelers use this mixture to determine pure gold.

Note

When using active acids, safety rules must be strictly observed. It should be remembered that when diluting an acid with water (for example, sulfuric acid), you need to pour the acid into the water, and not vice versa, since otherwise the acid will splash, which can lead to severe burns.

Simple methods for extracting silver from waste hyposulfite (fixer)
Only part of the silver contained in the photosensitive layer of the photographic material is consumed to construct a photographic image. Most of the silver goes into the fixer and developer; it can be isolated and collected.

1st method.

Allows you to highlight pure silver. It consists of the following: iron filings or small iron nails, well washed from grease with gasoline, are poured into a vessel with depleted fixer. Shake the solution from time to time. After 7-10 days, the solution is drained and the nails are dried in air. Silver deposited on nails falls off as a black powder, which can then be smelted into ingots.

2nd method.

The depleted fixer and an equal volume of spent metholhydroquinone developer are poured into one vessel. A 30% solution of sodium hydroxide is added to the resulting mixture at the rate of 100 ml for each liter of used fixer. The silver is deposited in the form of the finest pure silver powder. The process lasts at least 48 hours.
The silver precipitate formed during this time is filtered and dried. The remaining aqueous solution of sodium thiosulfate, i.e. fixer, can be used again in work.

3rd method.

A polished sheet of brass is placed in the used fixer, which is in a glass vessel. After 48 hours, almost all the metallic silver from the depleted solution will have deposited on it. After deposition, the sheet is washed well with water and dried. Then the layer of silver is carefully scraped off its surface.

4th method.
To 1 liter of used fixing solution add 5-6 g of sodium hydrosulfite and 5-6 g of anhydrous soda. After 19-20 hours, the metallic silver formed in the form of a black fine powder is filtered, and the desilvered fixing solution is acidified with sodium bisulfite and used again for work.

5th method.
To do this, prepare a 20% solution of sodium sulfate and pour it into the used fixer at the rate of 20 ml of solution for each liter of fixer. After thoroughly mixing the solution, it is allowed to stand for 24 hours. Then the solution is drained from the sediment, and the sediment is dried on paper. The precipitate is silver sulfide. Precipitation is carried out in the open air or with increased ventilation; to reduce the release of hydrogen sulfide, the spent fixing solution is pre-alkalinized.

COLORING OF METALS

Coating metal with moiré varnish
Before coating with “moire” varnish, the surface of the metal part is degreased by heating it in an oven (oven) for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 80-100°C, then primed with heat-resistant enamel, puttied with varnish putty and dried. When the part is thoroughly dry, it is treated with pumice with water and sandpaper, wiped dry, coated with an even layer of “moire” varnish using a spray bottle and placed for 10-15 minutes in an oven at a temperature of about 80°C.

The pattern of the pattern depends on the thickness of the coating and the duration of heating of the part. Once the pattern has formed on the part, it is removed from the oven for a short time to allow partial cooling, and then placed back into the oven to final dry the varnish. At a temperature of 120-150°C, the varnish finally dries within 30-40 minutes, and at a lower temperature - within 2-3 hours.
To protect the painted surface from dust, it is coated with celluloid varnish: celluloid is dissolved in acetone to the consistency of liquid oil varnish and applied to the surface in an even layer using a swab. After the acetone dries, a strong protective film remains on the surface.

A durable coating is obtained if BF-2 glue is added to aluminum paint. BF-2 glue is dissolved in alcohol until the enamel becomes thick, then dry aluminum powder is poured into the resulting solution and mixed thoroughly, after which alcohol is added again until normal viscosity is obtained.

The paint prepared in this way adheres well when painted with a brush or with a spray gun, it does not crumble and retains its appearance for a long time.

Painting steel products to look like aluminum

To give steel products a beautiful look and protect them from corrosion, the metal is often coated with aluminum paint - a varnish containing aluminum powder. To do this, 15 g of powder is poured into colorless nitro varnish diluted with acetone (110 g).
In the same proportion, the paint can be diluted not in nitro varnish, but in celluloid glue - acetone, in which 5-10 g of X-ray film, cleared of emulsion, is dissolved.
The surface of the product is first thoroughly cleaned and then a thin layer of paint is applied using a spray gun.
A durable coating is obtained if BF-2 glue is added to aluminum paint. BF-2 glue is dissolved in alcohol until the enamel becomes thick, then dry aluminum powder is poured into the resulting solution and mixed thoroughly, after which alcohol is added again until normal viscosity is obtained. The paint prepared in this way adheres well when painted with a brush or with a spray gun, it does not crumble and retains its appearance for a long time.

What you need to know about paint incompatibility and the peculiarities of paint color perception

All paint components are chemicals. Metals (copper, zinc, aluminum), which are part of paints in the form of powder, affect the corrosion of the metal surface being painted and the binder. Metal oxides and salts affect the binder, accelerating film formation. Dissimilar types of binders cannot be combined with each other, and some oil paints made with the same binder, but based on different pigments, cannot be mixed.

Pigment incompatibility. When mixing pigments, it is very important to consider the nature of their interaction. If pigments are incompatible, they are destroyed and their anti-corrosion properties are lost.
When mixing paints with incompatible pigments, their color is lost.

Incompatibility of binders. You can mix oil paints only with oil paints (on a homogeneous basis), glypthal - with glypthal, pentaphthalic - with pentaphthalic, epoxy - with epoxy, bitumen varnishes - with asphalt and coal tar varnishes, etc. However, all thick oil paints can be diluted with drying oils and varnishes made on the basis of only light natural and artificial resins, excluding asphalt and bitumen resins.
Incompatibility of paint with surface material. All primers without exception can be applied to a steel surface: oil, phosphating, tread, glyphthalic, phenol-formaldehyde, vinyl chloride copolymers, ethylene, acrylic, etc.

METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the influence of specially selected chemical reagents.

A number of ways METAL ETCHING provides for the activation of etching reagents through other physical phenomena, for example, the application of an external electric field during electrochemical etching, ionization of atoms and molecules of reagents during ion-plasma etching, etc.

In the literature, the term “etching” is usually accompanied by a definition explaining the specific etching technology- chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical, etc. When the term “etching” is used without further definition, it usually means chemical etching of metal in an aqueous electrolyte.

For artistic metal etching , when part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

chemical etching of metal- “liquid” etching
electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
ion plasma - “dry” etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING We use the most commonly used technologies: chemical etching of metal And galvanic etching.

METAL ETCHING - features

Etching, as one of the stages electroplating used for preliminary preparation of metal products for the application of protective coatings. With its help, a previously degreased surface is cleaned of oxide films for better adhesion of the galvanic layer to the base.

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Copper etching We widely use it for processing copper cliches, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

We fulfill copper etching And brass etching chemical or galvanic method. We select the type of etching solution, its concentration and processing time individually, and the parameters of the solution depend on the thickness of the oxide film to be removed.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Chemical etching of metal is a method of reproducing various designs, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemicals. on the surface of metal objects.

Chemical brass etching , chemical copper etching and their alloys is based on the reaction of special mordant compounds with the surface of the base, as a result of which oxide films dissolve. For processing, we use solutions of concentrated acids, in which the products are placed for a certain time. In this way we perform preliminary or glossy etching. Obtaining a matte or shiny surface when chemical etching of metal we regulate the degree of acid concentration and exposure time.

Galvanic etching

Galvanic method of etching metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over chemical etching of metal and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself galvanic etching this method occurs much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

Galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical etching technology both in time and in the volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which galvanic etching no gases harmful to health are formed.

At galvanic way etching copper and brass products (anode) are placed in galvanic bath with etching solution. We use solutions of orthophosphoric, hydrochloric and sulfuric acids as electrolytes. Reagents (lead salts) are added to the electrolyte to prevent over-etching of the surface. The oxide film is separated from the metal as a result of the release of oxygen.

If you carefully examine the drawing through a magnifying glass, chemically etched method, it will turn out that the edges of individual recessed lines are uneven and that the deeper the line, the wider it is etched. At galvanic etching the edges of individual lines are completely smooth, and the walls of the recesses are vertical.

Pre-treatment of an object is also used when galvanic etching.

The treated object, which serves as an anode, is suspended in galvanic bath, containing a mordant, on a wire that is soldered with tin solder to an uncovered area, the soldering area is covered with varnish. The other end of the wire is connected to a plate of the same metal, which serves as a cathode. As a mordant for steel and iron, we use iron sulfate or ammonia solution; For copper etching, brass etching and bronze - a solution of copper sulfate; for zinc - zinc sulfate or a solution of zinc chloride oxide.

If you need to do and etch different parts of the drawing to different depths, then after a certain period of time we remove the object from galvanic bath, we rinse those places that do not need to be etched deeper, and apply a protective coating to them, and then hang the item again in galvanic bath and continue etching.

METAL ETCHING - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- complex technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is needed only by professionals.

Our company has proven experience in performing galvanic etching And chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all the necessary equipment to perform METAL ETCHING and in case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We use technology metal etching For copper etching And brass etching .

By using metal etching technology we carry out:

applying texture or relief design during artistic processing of materials -
production of award and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plaques
production of metal signs: facade signs and office signs
production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
production of logos, brand marks, corporate style items
production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
production of metal objects for cladding walls, entrance lobbies, fireplaces, portals, grilles
removing the surface layer of dirt, oxides, grease film, etc., for example, scale from metal workpieces
chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer damaged during previous mechanical processing
etc.

We produce metal signs and panels mainly using brass. This metal, under the influence of the external environment, oxidizes over time, so we cover the plates with various types of decorative coatings: gold, silver, nickel, bronze, which ensures their preservation for a long time. If necessary, the elements of the plate and panel can be painted over with colored enamels.

METAL ETCHING We make it in two ways: you can cover all the lines and surfaces of the drawing with a substance that is affected by the mordant; You can, on the contrary, protect all spaces from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the drawing free. If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the pattern will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second case the pattern will appear in-depth.

Copper etching And brass etching in our production conditions virtually eliminates defects due to the use of special equipment and an established system for monitoring the preparation and metal etching.

Our company offers services galvanic etching both for individual and mass production.

After execution metal etching If necessary, we carry out grinding, patination and application of a protective layer.

METAL ETCHING – types of products

By using metal etching You can get a wide variety of copper and brass products, ranging from textured panels to artwork and jewelry.

Brass etching , textured panel

Brass etching , texture with volume

Copper etching, textured panel

Copper etching, textured surface with patterns

Brass etching , artistic drawing

Brass etching , art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

Brass etching , decorative decoration

METAL ETCHING - our work

METAL ETCHING- decorative motorcycle linings with an original design, part of motorcycle tuning, motorcycle linings are made of brass with relief engraving and three-dimensional image application, for contrast levels the background is blackened and matte polished

Brass etching- relief plates for decorating the facade of a country house

Brass etching- a copy of the coat of arms of the USSR for a gift case made of wood, on a metal coat of arms with a diameter of 6 cm, all elements are worked out with a high degree of detail, painted with enamels and artificial aging as a finish

Metal etching- family coat of arms of the noble family of the Russian Empire “Safonovs”, the relief coat of arms is made of brass, the background is oxidized, the top plan is polished, the finished coat of arms is placed in a frame according to the style

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Brahmananda Avadhuta”, diameter 36 cm; the portrait of the guru, the lotus and the decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, 2 types of grinding and polishing create shine and reflection of individual groups of elements of the composition

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Shiva”, diameter 33 cm; portrait and decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, combined polishing to a mirror shine

Brass etching- reproduction of the icon 15x18 cm, made using technology etching, line thickness 0.5 mm

Metal etching- aluminum skull emblem on the car grille, three-dimensional metal carving, etching of the pattern, assembling a composition from individual elements, oxidation, varnish

Metal etching- numbers for apartments made of nickel silver, made in high-tech style, relief chemical engraving, directional grinding to add color and texture, number size 7.5x4 cm

Brass etching- a beer wobbler made of brass for a cafe-buffet is made using chemical engraving technology, the size of the wobbler is 30x13 cm, the holder is contoured and soldered, matte grinding and contrasting blackening of the background are used

Nickel silver metal plates for decorating table clocks, relief metal etching with color filling, the size of metal plates is 13x9 and 13x5 cm, respectively, grinding the metal to a matte surface

Copies of orders for the restoration of the book “15 Years of the Komsomol” were made metal etching, made the Order of the Red Banner and the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, diameter 11 cm, convex relief, aging metal in the color of the original

Metal etching a copy of the personal seal of Metropolitan Moses was made (Byzantine period, 11th century), the work was made as a gift in a frame on blue velvet, 2-sided image, the diameter of each seal is 8 cm, color “antique silver”

Brass etching- metal belt buckle, made in a multi-level design, embossed background and relief image of letters and coat of arms, size 70x55 mm

A 2-sided nickel silver medal with a portrait on the front side and the Brandenburg Gate on the back side is made metal etching, relief image on metal 6 mm thick, medal diameter 6 cm, contrast blackening and matte polishing were used for finishing

A metal product for a special event is made brass etching in the form of a souvenir medal, diameter 15 cm, thickness 5 mm., the peculiarity of the medal is the relief application of inscriptions and detailed elaboration of the elements of the Spasskaya Tower, the surface is processed to a mirror polished state of the background, inscriptions and image

Family coat of arms made using technology metal etching, division of elements into zones, filling with colored translucent enamel, decorative frame, oxidation

Copper etching- damper for the stove, made in hunting style. Contour cutting of metal and chemical engraving of the design were used for manufacturing; decorative handles and legs were used for finishing, a frame along the contour with copper rivets

Brass etching- engraving “Temple of the Blessed Virgin Mary”, patination and blackening, framing

Metal etching- decorative panel “Pokrovsky Cathedral”, silvering, blackening, size 16x22 cm

2-sided Phaistos disk with a diameter of 10 cm with unique hieroglyphs, made using technology metal etching, perfect elaboration of the smallest details and contours with a line thickness of up to 0.2 mm, surface polishing and filling lines with color

2-sided Storozhevsky ring with a diameter of 10 cm with unique drawings containing information about the ancient calendar system, made using technology metal etching, detailed elaboration of the signs on the front surface of the ring and an unusual texture on the reverse side

2-sided Serponov ring with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting a calendar and a map of an ancient civilization, made using technology brass etching

A 2-sided star disk from Mittelberg with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting the oldest world horoscope to date, made using technology brass etching, detailed elaboration of elements on the front side and texture on the back side

Brass etching- decorative napkin holder “Calvados”, size 18x3.5 cm, background etching and oxidation

Metal etching- hammered copper plate of the Church of St. Vyacheslav the Czech, diameter 35 cm, etching , oxidation, silvering

Metal etching- gift panel “Fan” made of nickel silver, relief engraving, polishing and blackening

Brass etching- nameplates for a wooden case with a weapon, made with a protruding relief, look great due to the design with a frame and the contour cut along the frame

Brass etching sign “Sun”, made according to the design of a child’s hand drawing with repetition of lines from the movement of the hand, the size of the brass plate is 15x10 cm, chemical engraving, blackening and polishing were used to contrast the background and image

Artistic metal etching , stainless steel etching- stainless steel numbers 3 mm, without filling and with graphite filling

METAL ETCHING, stainless steel etching- stainless steel indicators, enamel filling, grinding, edge treatment

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 3 mm brass plate, “Letters of repentance”

Brass etching- decorative hanger element, antique finish

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 5 mm brass plate, “Bag of Happiness”

Artistic metal etching , brass etching

Artistic metal etching , brass etching – panels for interior decoration

Artistic METAL ETCHING - cost

Cost of manufacturing a product using technology galvanic etching or chemical etching of metal depends on the following parameters:

product material
product size and geometry
availability of a sketch or drawing of the product
complexity of the drawing and depth of the drawing
necessary finishing
method of fastening the product
special wishes of the Customer for the product

average cost metal etching for a product of average complexity is 50-60 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m products.

Order METAL ETCHING You can use email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. To view it, you need JavaScript enabled or phone numbers from the contacts section.

Order art copper etching And brass etching from us, and you will receive the best quality and original execution.

METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the influence of specially selected chemical reagents.

For artistic metal etching , when part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

chemical etching of metal- “liquid” etching
electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
ion plasma - “dry” etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING We use the most commonly used technologies: chemical etching of metal And galvanic etching.

METAL ETCHING - features

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Copper etching We widely use it for processing copper cliches, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Chemical etching of metal is a method of reproducing various designs, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemicals. on the surface of metal objects.

Galvanic etching

Galvanic method of etching metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over chemical etching of metal and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself galvanic etching this method occurs much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

Galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical etching technology both in time and in the volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which galvanic etching no gases harmful to health are formed.

Pre-treatment of an object is also used when galvanic etching.

METAL ETCHING - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- complex technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is needed only by professionals.

Our company has proven experience in performing galvanic etching And chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all the necessary equipment to perform METAL ETCHING and in case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We use technology metal etching For copper etching And brass etching .

By using metal etching technology we carry out:

applying texture or relief design during artistic processing of materials -
production of award and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plaques
production of metal signs: facade signs and office signs
production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
production of logos, brand marks, corporate style items
production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
production of metal objects for cladding walls, entrance lobbies, fireplaces, portals, grilles
removing the surface layer of dirt, oxides, grease film, etc., for example, scale from metal workpieces
chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer damaged during previous mechanical processing
etc.