Before we talk about how to install posts for swing gates, let’s highlight the product – gate posts. There is always misunderstanding with gate posts. There is mainly disagreement over whether gate posts are considered part of the gate itself or not. For some reason, many Customers are 100% sure of this and are perplexed when it is explained to them that this is not so. The client believes that gates, in principle, cannot exist only in the form of two separate leaves, and especially without welded gate hinges. Or another extreme, when the Customer still allows the existence of a similar set of gates without pillars, but it should be quite cheap. Of course, the easiest way is to direct such a Customer in a further search for the gate he needs and not save his nerves on explaining elementary things that are axioms for the gate manufacturer. But it is a fact that there are no extra Customers. The opinion that swing gates must be equipped with gate posts completely without foundation. Like, if there are gate leaves, and they cannot hang in the air, the gate hinges must be attached to something, and if so, then the gate kit must also include gate posts. Such logic about gates can only be made by a person who is very far from construction work and does not understand the technology of installing gates and the order of installation of products when erecting a fence. In reality, the gate posts are installed much earlier than the gate itself, and it is from these posts that the gate dimensions will be taken. That is, the gate posts are already ready and look good, but the gate itself is not yet in the sketches. Gate posts are, more correctly, part of the fence configuration. A smart builder who erects a fence is always interested in where the gates and gates will be located. And he always starts work by installing posts for gates and gates. And then he lays brick or other material.
Options for installing posts for metal gates
Installing gate posts is not an easy job. If you do not have experience in correctly installing gate posts, the result will be disastrous. Over time, gate posts will tilt, the gate will jam, or stop working properly altogether. All this can be avoided. What you need to know before you start installing gate posts.
The first thing is to pay attention to the material of the gate posts. Suitable material will be thick-walled rolled metal. For example, hot-rolled channel 14, 16 or a channel of smaller cross-section, pre-welded into a box. Metal gate posts can also serve profile pipes with a cross section of 100 x 100 mm and a wall of at least 5 mm. The thicker the pipe wall, the stronger the gate post.
Secondly, the design of metal gate posts must have lower crossbars at the base. Ideally, the pillar before concreting should rest on the crosspiece of the corner 50, 63. And the other crosspiece should be recessed 100 - 200 mm from the surface of the ground. The length of the crossbars varies from 500 mm to 1 meter.
Third, it is mandatory to fill the base of metal gate posts with concrete. In this case, the gate post must be installed at a depth of at least one and a half meters, and somewhere more. It all depends on the composition and properties of the soil where the gate posts will be installed.
Fourth, do not neglect pouring liquid into the gate post concrete mortar. This will make it possible to make a strong reinforced concrete pillar from a hollow pipe with external reinforcement, thereby achieving the most rigid pillar structure possible.
Fifth, it is more reliable if the foundation of the gate posts is part of the general foundation of the fence. And concreting when installing gate posts will be carried out simultaneously with the general pouring of the foundation.
Sixth, it is more expedient to provide additional fastening between the gate post and the fence in its upper part. If you are laying a fence made of brick, then the brick post inside which the gate post is hidden must be additionally tied with a thick metal strip to the fence itself. It often happens that a brick pillar tilts due to the load of the gate and breaks away from the fence masonry, forming a crack between them.>
Seventh, sometimes in difficult clay soils, it is impossible to install gate posts in a strictly vertical position and fix them securely. In this case, you need to use additional upper and lower crossbars (lintels) between the gate posts. The lower lintel is made of metal similar to that used for gate posts, and is buried in the ground to a depth of 300 - 400 mm. Subsequently, a regular driveway is installed on top of the lower lintel. The upper crossbar is installed along the upper ends of the gate posts. Of course, the top lintel will not add beauty and neatness to the gate, but it is a necessary measure and a very effective one. The upper crossbar must be made removable to allow passage in case of tall vehicles or large cargo being transported through the gate.
How to install gate posts - much more difficult task than it might seem at first glance.
If for a fence it is enough for the posts to simply stand and not fall, then the gate is a mechanism, for the coordinated operation of which it will be necessary to maintain a certain position of both of its leaves.
Therefore, installing poles is the most difficult and important task in their construction.
According to their rigidity to the posts, all gates can be divided into groups:
- Gates that are locked with a bolt, an electronic lock; gates with heavy leaves; gates that may be damaged by passing trucks.
- A gate that is locked with a chain or barrier.
Products of the first type are usually placed where they need to be opened and closed frequently - for example, at the entrance to a large shopping center. Typically, such a passage has a significant width - about five.
And in some cases - even more, so that two cars up to eight meters wide can easily pass each other. The doors in this case can weigh from 500 kg to four tons.
Yes, and in a private house, many will want to have a gate that closes with an electronic lock - they can be opened and closed without leaving the car or just look from the window who has arrived and open the gate for him without leaving.
Before you install gate posts, you need to know that the most stringent requirements are imposed on them here. They must provide reliable operation bolt mechanism, stable position of both doors relative to each other.
Gates that are locked with a chain do not require any special requirements to the rigidity of the pillars.
The chain, although it does not provide sufficiently reliable protection against penetration, will still be an obstacle to the penetration of thieves.
Here it will be enough to ensure sufficient strength of the pillars themselves - after all, when using gates, it is still possible that they will be hit by a trailer.
It would also be a good idea to ensure that the pillars are maintainable. Barriers also do not impose any special requirements on the posts. An exception is electronic barriers with the beam being locked when lowered by a stop.
In this case, the same requirements are imposed on the pillars as for gates of the first type. In addition, they should be stronger - a barrier at the entrance is easier to miss in the dark than a closed gate. The disadvantage of chain-locked gates is that you have to open and close them manually.
Gate material
- Definitely the most the best material for poles today is a metal pipe - round or square. It does not have too much mass so that the pole can be erected by one or two people without the use of equipment. Pouring concrete inside the pipe or adding lime will create an electrochemical positive potential on the surface of the pipe and increase rust resistance several times; in addition, you can order products from galvanized pipes.
- The second option is reinforced concrete. This is not very good for heavy gates - constant bending, cyclic loads, the likelihood of an accidental dynamic impact from the side of a trailer or wheel will quickly render them unusable. Reinforced concrete posts are much more suitable for a fence. Brick pillars have the same drawback - except when there is metal pole, and the hinges are attached directly to it using remote anchors, through the thickness.
- Finally, the third option is wooden pillars. Wooden giants will be more exotic and are used quite rarely - due to their low resistance to rotting and low load-bearing capacity.
Installation of posts for gates that are locked with a bolt or a heavy gate
Installing gate posts to prevent them from wandering can only be done by reliable foundation and ensuring their tight connection with each other. Communication can be made at two points - at the bottom of the entrance, at the crossing through the gate and at the top of the pillars. Usually they are welded together at these two points, placing two I-beams between them.
But for the top fasteners there is a rather serious limitation - sometimes it may be necessary to pass vehicles that exceed the height of the dimensions of the pillars and the top beam. Therefore, the latter is made removable.
When installing an entrance to own plot When you plan to drive only your own car, it is quite possible not to make a solid foundation for the gate, but to make separate ones for each post. In this case, they simply weld the pillars at the bottom with a thick I-beam, and on top they make the same beam, but removable, inserted into welded sockets and having welded pins for insertion.
This way, you can safely drive in and out on your own, while good stable operation of the electronic lock and opening mechanism will be ensured, and skewing of the pillars can be avoided.
However, this does not negate the laying of the foundation for each pillar separately, which should go below the freezing depth for such gates. In the entry area they usually do concrete pad. It will be very good if the I-beam, which is welded between the pillars below, is thicker than it. In a layer of concrete it will be reliably protected from rust, since concrete produces a slightly alkaline reaction and prevents metal oxidation.
For heavier gates it is necessary to make a solid foundation. Usually it is made in the form of the letter “H” with a transverse bar that is strongly elongated horizontally.
The foundation is usually poured solid. Its depth should be below the freezing depth. Everything is done according to the same rules as the construction strip foundation for home. The thickness of the foundation grillage is about 50 cm. Theoretically, 30 will be enough, but a width of 50 allows you to save on formwork and pour the foundation into a spacer with the walls of the trench.
Near the pillars, extensions-buttresses are made in both directions, perpendicular to the entrance. Usually, even for heavy gates, a buttress in the area of a post with a total length of one meter is sufficient. The foundation is reinforced before pouring.
Between the pillars at the bottom of the entrance, near the surface, they weld I-beam. Then it is poured into concrete, along with reinforcement - concrete will be a reliable protection for it.
It is advisable to install an I-beam at the top of the pillars. Considering that, usually, heavy gates require large and heavy posts, the beam must match.
It will be difficult to remove and put it back in place - you will have to adjust it every time crane. Therefore, it is better to immediately put a significant height reserve in the pillars and simply tightly weld the beam to them, once and for all.
Posts for gates
Using the same technology, you can install posts for gates and gates - with the difference that here you can take thinner posts, just install round diameter 50 mm or square 50 mm wide, wall thickness – 3 mm.
It is not advisable to take a smaller wall thickness - it will be difficult to weld hinges to thin metal, and this will also affect the durability of the gate.
Considering that 2.5 meters is enough for a person to pass, the pillars can be connected without any danger to each other at a height of 2.5 meters by welding a crossbar.
The second link is at the bottom, where the entrance is. It is advisable to concrete it so that it does not rust. Standard width gates - 90-120 cm. You can freely enter such a passage in winter clothes, with a baby stroller, and even bring a wheelbarrow with earth.
How to concrete gate posts - on video:
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You will need
- - pipe Ø100 mm;
- - corner 100x100 mm;
- - angle grinder (“grinder”);
- - welding machine;
- - cement;
- - sand;
- - edged boards and timber for formwork;
- - carpentry tools;
- - shovels and bayonet shovels.
Instructions
Cut blanks for gates. For racks, use a Ø100 mm pipe or a 100x100 mm corner. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.
Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.
Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.
Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). The required trench depth is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, level groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.
Make wooden boards from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.
Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement made of any type of metal into the formwork - wire, scraps of metal profile, etc.
Prepare sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.
When the territory of a site is enclosed with a fence, the question always arises about the need to install a gate. They come in several types: swing, sliding, opening in one direction or lifting. You can install it yourself only with hinged or one-way opening doors. gates. The rest are installed on special structures with the participation of specialists in this field.
You will need
- -hinges
- -bolts or welding machine
- -pillars
- -smooth block
Instructions
In summer cottages and in private houses, swing doors are usually installed. gates. This design consists of two doors, welded from iron or made from plank. In some cases, carved or forged gates.
To install the gate, dig in the posts, measuring the manufactured gates. Poles can be installed iron or wooden. Fill both with cement mortar for strength and reliability.
The hinges can be welded to the posts and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store-bought hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges from any turning organization or purchase them at the market where they sell homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will allow easy opening gates without making any effort.
The most complex process is the installation and securing of the gate. It is impossible to carry out this procedure alone, because the doors made from any material are quite heavy. They need to be hung at a distance from the ground that does not prevent them from opening.
Place a block of the required size down the gate along the length of both leaves. Install one leaf on it and weld or screw the hinges. First this is done from above, then from below.
The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first and welded or screwed on the hinges. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded at the top, then at the bottom.
If you installed a block, then both doors should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when closing them.
Video on the topic
Owners of their own plots try to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and fit well into the general design. Wooden structures are considered the most affordable and easiest to implement.
For those who want to make their own wooden gates First you need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately imagine the scope of work and purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.
How to install gate supports
From wooden beams you need to make vertical supports. Their size should be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth to which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure is. This reduces the likelihood of misalignment during operation of the gate.
Remove debris from the area where the support posts will be installed. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Compact the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of crushed stone. That part of the pillar that will be filled with concrete must be pre-treated with a composition that will protect the wood from rotting - for example, bitumen mastic. Use a plumb line to check that the post is installed vertically. The hole with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.
Gate manufacturing
To make one of the gate posts, you will need one block each for the top and bottom, two bars for the side posts, and two for the middle lintel. Dimensions for gates are calculated depending on the size of the machine. All parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.
The frame parts are laid out on a flat surface, and holes must be drilled at the joints. Dowels are inserted into them - they add rigidity to the places where the parts are connected. Jumpers made of timber are installed in the middle of the frame. At the corners, jibs are attached, which are bars with cuts at the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.
When calculating the height of the frame, it is necessary to take into account that the sheathing boards should protrude beyond it from below and above by 20 cm. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions specified by calculation and worked with a plane. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with a certain step. After all the sheathing boards are in place, the top must be trimmed and cleaned sandpaper. Now the hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to secure fasteners to racks.
The distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground must be at least 5 cm. Closed gates are secured with bolts, latches or locks - the owner chooses the method. It is better to paint the gate when assembled.
Video on the topic
A fence is an important element of fencing. When constructing it, it is necessary to determine what supports it will have. Its reliability and longevity depend on this. Pillars can be wooden, metal or concrete. Once you have made your choice, get to work.
You will need
- - pillars;
- - cord;
- - pegs;
- - saw;
- - drill;
- - gravel;
- - bitumen;
- - wedges.
Instructions
Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do this with a cord. Correctly calculate the number of columns, crossbars and canvases.
Hammer the pegs where the posts will be installed. Check again that the intended line is correct. The pegs must be exactly at the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.
Mark the height of the post. She must be taller than herself fence by a few centimeters. Considering underground part, saw off the excess.
Many owners of private lands pay Special attention their arrangement, independently inventing various useful gizmos.
One of such products is yard gates, which to some extent act as the face of any private plot.
For handmade Standard swing gates are best suited. But in order to make a really good structure that will last for many years, you should carefully prepare a reliable foundation.
For yard swing gates, this design element is decisive. The fact is that the evenness and normal functioning valves
If you make an unreliable underground foundation during the construction of the gate, after some time during use, the supports will first begin to sag and tilt, and then become loose.
As a result, deformation of the entire structure will occur.
To prevent this from happening, you need to pay special attention to preparation. monolithic foundation, which is made using special construction technology.
A good foundation for a home gate is carefully reinforced with crushed stone and cement mortar underground bases of pillars or the entire underground space in the area where the structure is located.
Today there are several types of such foundations:
- Fundamental strengthening of supports. First, measurements are taken and holes are dug in the places designated for the support pillars. Then racks are installed level in them in the form metal pipes and the recesses are filled and strengthened with cement mortar. This is the simplest type of foundation.
For greater reliability, many craftsmen line pipes facing bricks. In this case, in certain places, special holders are welded to the pipe for future fastening of the loops.
If necessary, the internal base of the brick pillar is strengthened with reinforcement from iron rods and filled with mortar.
- Solid trench type foundation. This type of underground gate base device is the most reliable. In this case, not only holes are dug for the load-bearing supports, but a solid trench is dug along the entire length of the gate. The oblong depression is strengthened from the inside reinforcement mesh, then in certain places, support pillars are installed in separate holes at a vertical level. As a result, the entire trench is filled with crushed stone and filled with cement mixture.
Each of these types of foundations is prepared based on size and weight general design gate If you are planning to make small swing gates up to 5 meters wide and up to 2 meters high, you can choose the first option and simply strengthen the support pillars.
If you want to make massive metal gates with a gate up to 10 meters wide, you are better off digging a trench and preparing a solid solid foundation.
We make the foundation ourselves
The durability of your swing gates will depend not only on the quality of the materials you use to construct the product itself, but also on the properly prepared foundation.
Therefore, when building the foundation you will need detailed drawing. If you are strengthening the pillars, the standard scheme presented below will suit you.
For a more solid continuous trench foundation, you can use the drawing below for clarity.
Having decided on the structure of the fundamental foundation that is most suitable for you, you will need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools for work, it should include:
- building level and tape measure;
- shovel and hand drill(if necessary);
- concrete mixer or electric drill with a “mixer” attachment;
- crushed stone;
- three or two metal pipes the right size, with a diameter of at least 10 cm;
- sand;
- water;
- fittings;
- welding machine (if necessary);
- brick (if necessary);
- cement.
Now you can get to work. First you need to take measurements and dig holes for support posts or dig a trench, it all depends on what type of foundation you want to use.
The depth of the pits should be at least 1 meter, and the diameter should be 10 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipes themselves. The same parameters apply to the trench; it should be 1 meter deep and 10 cm wide on both sides from the edges of the support pipes.
If you make a trench, you will still need to make recesses for the posts at the bottom.
Now it’s time to thoroughly compact the bottom of the recesses and fill them with sand so that the cushion is at least 5-10 cm. After this, install the pipes in the openings, measuring the vertical with a building level.
If you are simply strengthening the supports, fill the holes up to half the depth with crushed stone, and then start making the building mixture.
To do this, pour cement and sand into a container in a ratio of 1:3, add water in a proportion of at least 25% of the total mass. For greater strength, you can add a little crushed stone to the mixture.
Now use a concrete mixer or electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the solution thoroughly. Let it sit for a few minutes.
After cement mixture ready, fill the remaining recesses at the bases of the pipes with it. The simplest foundation for strengthening the supports is almost ready; now all you have to do is wait a few days until it dries and, if necessary, cover the supports with facing bricks.
After this, you can install the gate.
If you are using a trench base for your swing gates, you will need to prepare the reinforcement before installing the posts. To do this, take the required number of metal rods of a certain size, weld them together using a welding machine to form an oblong, rectangular parallelepiped.
Now install the resulting frame in the trench and insert the pillars into the holes, filling them with building mixture.
Then fill the entire trench with cement mortar and wait a few days for it to dry. This foundation arrangement will serve you for a long time.
So, taking into account all these features, you can build an excellent foundation for swing gates.
The main thing is to take high-quality measurements, check the verticals of the supports with a building level and do not violate the sequence of actions.
A blind fence is needed to enclose and protect private territory land or summer cottage. Naturally, the fence must have an entrance. At first a gate was enough, then a gate was needed for the carriage, and then for the car.
Metal gates and a wicket will provide entry/entry into the yard and guarantee safety for the residents of the house. Earlier iron gate sheathed sheet metal 3-5 mm, in modern conditions corrugated board is popular.
According to the method of opening, all types of metal/wood gates can be divided into two groups: swing and sliding.
By type of gate device: built-in (inside) and free-standing (nearby).
You can buy ready-made gates from corrugated sheets, order them made to size, or make them yourself. Let's take a closer look at the last option - homemade gate, as a cheap and accessible option.
Since swing gates are a simpler design to manufacture, we will describe how to make swing gates from corrugated sheets on your own. The strength and aesthetic properties of the profiled sheet, as well as the price/quality ratio, allow us to talk about the feasibility of such a choice of cladding. As for the gate, we will describe two options for the device.
Do-it-yourself gates made of corrugated sheets -
step-by-step instruction
Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a structure with a separate gate.
Stage 1 – dimensions of gates made of corrugated sheets with and without a wicket
Please note that the installation of swing gates requires taking into account the layout of the site/yard.
Width of corrugated gates
The width of the gate opening is determined based on the width of the car (including mirrors) plus one additional meter for reserve.
The width of the supporting pillars (columns) is also taken into account. When installing a gate with a free-standing gate, there will be three posts. In addition, you need to take into account the size of the gaps between the support pillars and the frame frame. As well as the size of the gap between the swing gate leaves, taking into account the parameters of the fittings.
- The optimal opening width for gates is 4500-5000 mm.
- The standard width of a gate made of corrugated sheets is 1200 mm.
Advice. Since you can’t get by with one sheet per sash, it is advisable to calculate the width of the sash based on the width of the corrugated sheet.
The table shows the dependence of the width of the gate leaf on the width of the profiled sheet.
Material prepared for the website www.site
Height of corrugated gates
The height of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is 2200-2500 mm. This is explained by the standard length of the corrugated sheet - 2,000 mm. Although the manufacturer can offer any length with a resolution of 50 mm.
In addition, the gap at the bottom (between the gate leaves and the ground) is taken into account, which is necessary to ensure the functioning of the gate in the event of ice formation and high snow cover. The gap under the gate is 150-300 mm.
The height of the gate is influenced by the presence of decorative elements on top. For example, the use of forging allows you to increase the height of gates made of corrugated sheets and decoratively decorate the structure, as a result of which the entrance group looks more respectable.
Advice. If the gap from the ground seems too large, you can install a removable bar at the bottom of the gate, which must be removed at the beginning of winter.
Stage 2 – Drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets
A diagram or drawing of swing gates is necessary to simplify the calculation of the amount of material and assess the rigidity of the structure.
Two ways to make swing gates:
- with one large leaf (single leaf). The disadvantage of this method is that it requires a lot of space to maneuver the gate, as well as its large windage. Reducing the windage due to additional frame parts leads to an increase in the load on the hinges, which in turn leads to misalignment of the sash. This method is only suitable for gates with a small opening width or for installing a wicket gate;
- with two doors (double doors). All the disadvantages described above are eliminated, but the manufacturing cost increases due to the addition of hinges and frame elements. It is possible to have a device with the same or different width sashes. Double-leaf swing gates have the advantage of being more resistant to wind loads.
The diagram of swing gates made of corrugated sheets should contain:
- the total width of the opening. It will be necessary to make a maneuver if necessary - when increasing gaps or changing the size of fittings;
- the width of each sash;
- number, width of racks and depth of digging of racks;
- frame configuration indicating the width of its constituent elements;
- location and width of the gate. This is an important aspect. Manufacturing a gate from corrugated sheets simultaneously with the frame for the gate will reduce the duration of the project. And if the gate is located inside the gate frame, the drawing will allow you to take into account its location when marking and cutting blanks;
- location for installing hinges;
- place and method of installing the lock;
- location of the internal door latch (vertical latch).
Frame reinforcement elements must be applied to the drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets. It is the visualization of the future gate that allows you to understand which element to use and determine the location of its installation, taking into account the wind load.
Ways to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets:
1. weld a corner for rigidity.
This method is suitable if the width of the sashes is small (up to 1,500 mm each). The corner can be solid (kerchief) or in the form of a corner jumper (spacer). The wider the corner or the closer to the center the jumper is installed, the stiffer the gate frame will be.
2. make a frame inside or above the frame.
In the first case, workpieces of a smaller cross-section are placed in the cells of the frame and are tacked by welding in increments of 200-300 mm.
A continuous seam is not allowed to prevent deformation of the metal due to heating (to prevent it from leading and twisting).
In the second, a pipe of smaller cross-section is welded over the main frame. The figure shows a top view of such a reinforcement. 3. install transverse or diagonal jumpers.
It is important to install the jumpers correctly here. If a gate made of corrugated sheets has a slight windage and it is enough to install one transverse jumper perpendicular to the long frame elements, then the situation with gates is more complicated. In this case, it makes more sense to use a diagonal jumper.
Methods for installing a lintel on a gate made of corrugated sheets are shown in the photo.
Gate stiffeners – location options:
A) Despite its apparent simplicity, this option is quite thoughtful, since it guarantees the integrity of the gate leaves. On the one hand, it will be held in place by hinges; the possibility of deformation is eliminated from above due to the reinforcement of the corners. It will be held at the bottom by horizontal clamps (latches);
b) This is the most economical of the options presented, but it creates reinforcement only in the middle of the frame. The only advantage is that it makes it possible to install a lock on the jumper.
V) The disadvantage of this option is the weak reinforcement of the upper internal corners. Strong winds can deform the sash;
G) in this case there is no strengthening of the left inner corner;
d) in this case there is no strengthening of both internal corners;
e) perfect option. The places where the lock is inserted, where the hinges are installed, the lower fasteners and the upper corners are reinforced. This method eliminates frame torsion.
Advice. The wider the sash, the more the frame is reinforced.
Stage 3 – tools and material for gates made of corrugated sheets
The drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets is visual aid to calculate the material. To make it you will need:
- corrugated sheeting - for cladding. It is preferable to take a wall one, because it has a large working width.
- self-tapping screws or rivets for attaching corrugated sheets;
- metal pipe with a cross-section of 60x60 mm and above - for support pillars;
- pipe with a cross section of 40x40 or 60x20...60 mm. – for elements of the frame of the sashes (frame);
- pipe 20x20 to strengthen the frame (if necessary). 20x20 is suitable for a frame made of 60x20 pipe. 30x30 - if a 60x30 pipe was used.
Experts advise buying all pipes with a thickness of 3 mm, not 2. Their price is slightly more expensive, but it will be much easier for beginners to weld them. Metal heats up more slowly and does not deform as quickly.
- metal sheet for forming scarves (if necessary);
- hinges, locks (latches, latches, plugs), bottom clamps;
- metal primer and paint;
- decorative elements (forging).
Tools you will need: welding machine, grinder, screwdriver (drill and riveter), tape measure, level, plumb line, metal scissors, brushes and Consumables to the instrument.
Stage 4 – installation of support posts for gates made of corrugated sheets
Installation of corrugated gates begins with the installation of support posts. The most common way to install gate posts is by digging them in followed by concreting.
How to install gate posts correctly
- dig a hole with a garden drill. Using a shovel increases concrete consumption. The larger the diameter of the support, the larger the diameter of the recess should be. For a pipe with a cross-section of 60x60, the diameter of the drill should be 120 mm.
How deep should gate posts be buried? Installation depth is 1/3 of the support length
- pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand into the recess. The thickness of the pillow is 150-300 mm. The cushion is designed to prevent the influence of frost heaving of the soil and ensure the outflow of water from the base of the support, thereby slowing down its destruction;
- prepare the support (coat it with anti-corrosion primer);
- install the support strictly vertically. The slightest deviation will lead to distortion of the entire structure. Correct installation is checked with a plumb line or level;
- concrete the support. While the concrete is setting, you can begin making the frame;
- cover the upper part of the support with a metal plate or special decorative element. As a last resort, pour concrete into the post (concrete from the inside) to prevent water from getting inside and thereby prevent the pillar from collapsing.
What kind of corrugated gate posts can be used?
In addition to metal pipe supports, you can install a concrete pillar or use piles. Supports decorated (lined) with brick or stone look beautiful ( brick pillars). When calculating the width of the gate opening, you should take into account the material of manufacture and the width of the support.
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Stage 5 – manufacturing gate frames from corrugated sheets
Before starting production, you need to once again measure the width of the gate opening and wicket in order to make timely changes to the dimensions of the sashes.
Manufacturing technology:
- the metal is dissolved into blanks. It is advisable to make the cut at an angle of 45° for more reliable fastening. Although end-to-end welding of parts is also common, it is easier to cut workpieces and weld them;
Advice. Craftsmen advise welding the upper corners at an angle of 45 degrees, this will prevent water from flowing into them, and the lower ones can be butt welded.
- each workpiece is cleaned of dirt and rust;
- weld the frame elements together. Moreover, first the workpieces are baited, and after checking the geometry, they are welded with a continuous seam;
- the frame is strengthened (if necessary);
- Weld seams are thoroughly cleaned;
- degrease the frame, coat it with primer and paint the welding areas. After the paint has dried, paint the frame completely.
Advice. Making gates from corrugated sheets requires great precision in maintaining dimensions. When making a sash frame, it is better to make the frame a little smaller rather than larger. In the first case, in order to eliminate the gap between the swing gate leaves, it will be enough to weld the flashing onto one leaf of the frame, where it adjoins the second. In the second, you will need to cut the frame and reduce its width.
Stage 6 – installation of hinges for swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Garage hinges (canopies) are used to install gates.
How to properly weld hinges on gates made of corrugated sheets?
First the loop is welded to support post, then onto the gate frame at a distance of 200-300 mm from the edge of the leaf frame. Please note that the location of the hinge affects the position of the door when open. If it is necessary for the gate to open in both directions, the hinge is butt welded to the support. If there is only one, the loop is placed on the frame. To prevent the sash from reaching the fence, install a limiter.
How many hinges should be welded on the gate?
If the gate is reinforced, three hinges are required for each leaf. If you are light, two are enough.
Stage 7 – installation of corrugated sheeting on the gate
The corrugated sheet is mounted on one or both sides of the frame. The installation rules are not complicated, but knowing and following them will help you install the corrugated sheet on the gate correctly.
In general terms: you need to ensure reliable fastening of the sheet to the frame by fixing the corrugated sheet through one lower wave of the sheet. In this case, the profiled sheet is also screwed to the diagonal or perpendicular jumpers. And two sheets are connected to each other at the top of the wave (at the crest).
Rivets or self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Rivets look more elegant (especially those matched to the color of the corrugated sheet), self-tapping screws eliminate the possibility of water flowing into the installation site. Of course, this is not as critical as on the roof, but the appearance of rusty smudges over time cannot be avoided.
Stage 8 – installation of fittings (components for gates)
Additional items:
- lock for swing gates made of corrugated board. It is installed after the sashes are hung.
Types of locks and how to install/install (installation rules):
- mounted It is necessary to provide loops for the lock when welding the frame and attaching corrugated sheets;
- overhead. It is installed on a crossbar, most often on an additionally welded flat sheet of metal. Or it is screwed directly to the frame with hardware. Craftsmen do not recommend using welding to install the locking mechanism structure, because the lock needs maintenance and replacement;
- mortise The lock cuts into the plane of the pipe; a metal pocket is used to hide/decorate the installation site.
- lower lock of the swing gate leaf - needed to redistribute the load from the lock and additionally secure the lower part of the open/closed gate leaf from the wind (wind load).
- gate latch (bolt), designed to close the gate from the inside (locking). The latch is more suitable for a gate, and for swing gates a lock (bolt) is used.
- automation for swing gates. Allows you to open the gate remotely, which is very convenient when it’s cold, raining or dark.
- security system: external surveillance camera, warning light, alarm.
Swing gates made of corrugated sheets with a built-in wicket
We’ll separately tell you how to make swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets. This option is used when the opening is not wide enough to install gates and a separate wicket.
Options for the location of the wicket in the gate
Locations:
When making sash frames, they are made different sizes. Then the narrower sash serves as a gate.
This is the most a budget option, since the load on only one gate post increases, which will require the installation of an additional hinge and reinforcement of the frame. Overall costs will go down.
In the middle of the gate leaf. The option with a location in the middle is good because the frame of the gate serves as a reinforcement of the frame of the sash. And installing hinges not in the center, but closer to the top and bottom of the gate will further strengthen the structure. 
Closer to the support pillar. In this case, the main load falls on support pillar, because both the gate frame and the wicket frame rest on it. 
Closer to the inner edge of the sash. This design is the most “flimsy”, its weak link is the junction of the two doors and the gate. In the last three cases, during the manufacturing process of the frame, an additional frame for the gate is provided. Moreover, it is made more reinforced than for a free-standing gate, since it accounts for the wind load that acts on the gate leaves made of corrugated sheets. Please note that the gate will greatly overload the frame, which means that additional hinges and reinforcement of the sash frame will be needed. In general, the technology for manufacturing gates from corrugated sheets with a wicket inside is similar to manufacturing gates with a separate wicket. All the nuances are considered during the drawing process.
Advice. The lower clamp for such models of swing gates made of corrugated sheets is required.
Advantages and disadvantages of swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Advantages (pros):
- comparative simplicity of design and manufacture;
- low compared to sliding gates, price;
- ease of operation and maintenance;
- accessibility for installation of automation;
Disadvantages (cons):
- requirements for free space for maneuver (opening will require the release of an area equal to the width of the gate leaf);
- the need to take into account wind load;
- the need to provide for fastening open gates in order to avoid their unauthorized closing (latch, stop, locking devices);
- installing a limiter so that open gates do not damage the fence and block access to the gate;
- difficulty in caring for winter time year, which consists in the need to remove snow over a large area.
Approximate prices for swing gates made of corrugated sheets
Conclusion
As you can see, with some effort you can make and install swing gates from corrugated sheets with your own hands in 1-2 weeks, which will decorate entrance group and will reliably serve as a beautiful business card of a private home.
Today, there are many manufacturing options entrance gate to the surrounding area of a home or business. One of the simplest, most reliable and economical ways making gates - using profiled metal sheets.
Gates made of corrugated sheets have high strength characteristics and have an attractive appearance and long service life. At the same time, the technology for installing such gates is quite simple, which allows you to make them yourself.
Structurally, gates made of corrugated sheets are a frame made of metal profile with a fixed profiled sheet. The frame is installed on the posts using hinges - and the gate is ready. The poles can be either metal or wood. For wood best option diameter - 200 mm; for metal, the thickness of the column may be less.
The pillars are deepened by about a third relative to their total length. In this case, the height of the overhead part should be 500 mm greater than the height of the gate leaf to provide some clearance from below and above. It is necessary to make a gravel or sand cushion in the hole, and it is advisable to fill the post itself with concrete - this will increase the reliability of the entire gate structure.
For installation on a frame, it is recommended to choose a profiled sheet marked “C” as a sheet. It denotes relatively light wall sheets made of galvanized steel with small height ribs Thanks to its lightness, working with such a sheet is quite simple. Also, the low weight reduces wear on the hinges, extending the overall service life of the gate.
One of the main problems with gates made of corrugated sheets (as well as fences made of of this material) - high wind loads. Because of them, a sheet of corrugated sheeting can simply be torn off from the frame, not to mention the fact that the gate can open spontaneously, etc.
Various techniques can be used to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets.
- Firstly, this is a high-quality installation of pillars, that is, the use of a pillow and concrete pouring. If the pillars are installed securely, then the gate will not go anywhere.
- Secondly, the gate frame can be reinforced with stiffening ribs made of a metal profile. The simplest option is to install diagonal beams crosswise (in the shape of the letter “X”). Profile in in this case welded in places corner connection frame beams. The stiffening ribs not only prevent the sheet from bending under the influence of the wind, but also serve as additional attachment points.
- Thirdly, fastening. The step at which the corrugated sheet is attached to the frame or stiffeners should not exceed 150 mm. It is best to use rivets rather than screws as fasteners. The latter can be torn out both by the wind and by intruders. With rivets it is more difficult to perform such an operation.
- Fourthly, pay attention to the quality of welding of the gate frame. The overall strength of the gate will depend on the quality of the frame assembly.
- Fifthly, special holes in the sheet will help reduce wind loads. This method is applicable only if you are not afraid of the possibility of prying eyes on the area, and do not feel sorry for the sheet itself.
You will need
- - pipe Ø100 mm;
- - corner 100x100 mm;
- - angle grinder (“grinder”);
- - welding machine;
- - cement;
- - sand;
- - edged boards and timber for formwork;
- - carpentry tools;
- - shovels and bayonet shovels.
Instructions
Cut blanks for gates. For racks, use a Ø100 mm pipe or a 100x100 mm corner. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.
Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.
Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.
Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). The required trench depth is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, and groundwater level. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.
Make wooden panels from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.
Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement made of any type of metal into the formwork - wire, scraps of metal profile, etc.
Prepare a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.
