How to make ventilation in the cellar. Proper ventilation of the cellar. Features of ventilation arrangement

Grown fruits and vegetables must be preserved until the next season in order to provide yourself with food for all year round. A dry and cool room is required. Only a cellar made in accordance with all requirements will cope with such a task.

Why is ventilation needed?

To store vegetables, install ventilation in the cellar yourself. The circuit must ensure operation by creating a temperature difference between the outside and the inside. Warm air currents go up, and cold air flows come from below. How to make ventilation in the basement and cellar? This requires the creation of devices for the influx of dry air and the outflow of moist air, for which pipes are usually used.

Increased dampness is not suitable for a cellar or basement. Moisture should be removed from them primarily by creating a tight seal and preventing leaks in underground utilities. The more water in the basement, the higher the loss of food during storage. In addition, a damp cellar has Negative influence on the microclimate in the house.

Natural and forced ventilation

In order to regulate air humidity, ventilation in the cellar was invented long ago. Detailed diagram includes natural and forced, although they can exist separately.

The first version of the natural inflow and exhaust system does not require energy consumption and is very popular. It doesn’t require any special professionalism or skills to make your own cellar ventilation. How to make it is decided during the design of the building. Vents are provided in any building.

It's easy to do and is effective solution, which does not require costs. They are protected from rodents with metal mesh and, if necessary, covered.

How to arrange ventilation?

Do-it-yourself ventilation of a cellar or basement is done indoors large sizes, with a ceiling height of more than 2 m. The exhaust duct enters the cellar under the ceiling and exits through the roof of the house, garage, barn, since it is warm and wet air accumulates at the top and needs to be removed.

Duct placement

Pipes are best placed next to a fireplace or stove. Then the thrust will be much greater. The supply pipe also goes to the roof, but its lower part is located in the opposite corner. The draft will be better if the pipe is shorter or has a larger diameter. It is made 50-60 cm high from the lower level of the room. Then cold air from outside will flow into the lower part of the cellar. If the pipes are placed nearby, a limited area will be ventilated, but the rest of the room will be damp. They should have as few turns and bends as possible. Dampers are installed on the air ducts to regulate heat exchange and humidity. How should cellar ventilation be arranged with your own hands? The installation diagram is shown in the image below.

Pipe sizes

The dimensions of the pipes are determined by the dimensions of the cellar or basement. For 1 m2 of area there should be 26 cm2 cross section air duct. Then, for a room with an area of 6x8 m and a height of more than 2 m, the diameter of the boxes will be 40 cm. In addition, as the depth of the cellar increases, the cross-section of the pipe should increase. For a small basement, one duct may be enough. It can be made of wood and divided into two parts - supply and exhaust. Having two pipes for it will also be an effective solution. On top they are covered with visors to prevent precipitation.

Water vapor passing through the exhaust pipe freezes in winter, reducing the passage area. They try to insulate it, especially in places where it is backfilled with soil and where it goes out onto the roof. It will be better if you put another pipe or casing on the outside with thermal insulation, for example, mineral wool, between them. Budget option An asbestos-cement pipe will be used, which has the necessary strength and low thermal conductivity. There is also less moisture condensation on it. During cold weather, the flow section of the exhaust pipe is cleaned to avoid clogging. For better traction, make it as high as possible.

Forced ventilation can be done without additional energy costs. To do this, install a deflector on top of the exhaust pipe. When wind appears, a vacuum is formed inside the pipe, facilitating additional air exchange.

How to control air circulation in the basement?

Do-it-yourself forced ventilation of the cellar is installed in addition to natural ventilation, if the latter cannot fully perform its functions.

The system is checked for quality by placing a lit match to the lower hole of the hood. If it does not burn, it means that there is no circulation in the cellar and there is a lot of carbon dioxide. Its quantity can be reduced by installing a supply pipe with a larger diameter. The presence of dampers on the air ducts allows you to regulate the intensity of air exchange and temperature regime in room. At the same time, there should be no stagnation or cooling due to intensive circulation. An indicator of improper organization of the hood is the presence of condensation on the walls.

High-quality temperature control is ensured only with thermal insulation. Moreover, without it concrete ceiling condensation accumulates on the walls. A budget solution would be to cover it with foam sheets. In this case, attention should be paid to joints where moisture may form.

To arrange ventilation you will need the following:

PVC pipes;
clamps;
bolts, nuts.

Lightweight pipes adhere securely to walls. If they are made of metal, here would be better suited welding and fastening in walls. Wooden air ducts are processed special compounds from rotting.

A hole is made in the exhaust pipe (20-30 cm from the lower end) to drain the condensate. A pipe connected to a container for collecting liquid is connected to it.

Requirements for food storage conditions in the cellar

For a room to meet functional requirements, it must have the following conditions:

Complete blackout. There should be no windows inside, and artificial lighting is used only when visiting the premises.
Temperature inside warm period year should be lower than outside.
The moisture content in the cellar air should not exceed 90%.
Constant air exchange is created by proper natural air circulation in the cellar. It is necessary to prevent air stagnation, but not to unnecessarily heat or cool it.

How to do ventilation in the cellar with your own hands. Installation diagram

If the basement is already covered, holes are punched from above in opposite corners for installing air ducts at the rate of 26 cm 2 / m 2 of area. The exhaust air duct is lowered through the hole inward so that the lower end is right under the ceiling, with an indentation of no more than 100-150 mm. Its upper part is brought out through the roof to a height of 150 cm. Supply air duct carried into another hole at a distance of 20-25 cm from the basement floor. Then the cracks are sealed with cement mortar.

Ventilation in the cellar: device, microclimate maintenance scheme

Carrying out periodic ventilation. During the warm period, as well as before planting vegetables, everything that is possible is opened: hatches, doors and valves on pipes. As a result, the cellar dries out.
When the room is heavily saturated with moisture, all the wood is removed from it and dried under the sun. The cellar can be additionally blown with fans for 3-5 days before the autumn laying.
Excess moisture is removed by placing a container of quicklime in the cellar. If you light a candle in front of the exhaust pipe, the draft will increase and ventilation will improve. It is effective to use electric heaters or home heaters in the middle of the cellar.

After drying, the walls and ceiling are coated with impregnation deep penetration, which is applied in layers. A waterproof surface is formed, allowing only air and steam to pass through.

When the hood works normally, since the ventilation in the cellar is done with your own hands, the scheme provides for normal ventilation. It is quite enough to create the necessary microclimate.

How to properly make a hood in a garage cellar? Expert advice boils down to the following:

IN cold period the hood has to be covered so as not to cool the basement. At the same time, a lot of moisture is formed in it, which negatively affects the safety of products. For ventilation, a steel or wooden grate is placed over the hole and covered with old blankets and other rags. Warm air and steam escape through the pores without forming ice. At the same time, dampness in the cellar is reduced and vegetables are preserved better. Materials with low porosity are not suitable for covering (synthetics, tarpaulin, film).
It is not recommended to over-dry the cellar, as this negatively affects the safety of food. Sometimes it is necessary to do this by sprinkling the floor with wet sawdust or sand.
does not cope with its responsibilities if the air temperature in the cellar and outside are the same. Then install in the exhaust pipe electric fan, when turned on, stale air is forcibly expelled from the room. This doesn't require a lot of power. An additional device should not interfere natural air exchange. To do this, the diameter of the exhaust pipe is selected larger than the calculated one.

Conclusion

Can be done comfortable room With optimal conditions storage of vegetables, if natural ventilation is equipped in the cellar with your own hands. The scheme provides for the presence of two ducts - supply and exhaust, which must be correctly calculated and installed with the ability to regulate the flow sections.

A cellar is a room, most of which is below ground level. Moreover, its functions are not limited only to storage space for vegetables and other family supplies. In a modern private house, you can equip it with a workshop, a sauna, a sports hall, a billiard room, a boiler room and much more. But the main purpose of the cellar is to store vegetables, wines and other household preparations, which significantly frees up space in the house. To increase the shelf life, it is necessary that the temperature is within 5 degrees, the humidity does not exceed 90%, and there is a constant flow of fresh air. Therefore, proper ventilation of the cellar is extremely important to maintain the microclimate.

In addition, ventilation for the cellar is still necessary so that the wiring laid in the cellar for its lighting is not subject to excessive influence of humidity. Of course, electrical cables are laid in special sleeves, but proper ventilation serves as an additional protective factor.

Purpose of cellar ventilation

It is correctly designed and installed that ensures its correct functioning as intended. With air flow in the amount necessary for storing vegetables, their shelf life in a state suitable for food increases significantly.

If the cellar room is poorly ventilated, the air in it stagnates, the microclimate is disturbed, vegetables and other products spoil. After all, not only vegetables are stored in cellars; for example, many types of homemade sausages can be made there, and for them, a violation of at least one of the storage and preparation indicators threatens rapid spoilage.

However, excessive ventilation is also undesirable. After all, then a draft is created, which leads to accelerated drying of vegetables and sausages. So proper ventilation of the cellar must be ensured.

Therefore, when it is necessary to take into account all factors: the size of the room, the possibility of supplying electricity for arranging forced artificial ventilation, waterproofing of cellar walls, ceiling materials, foundation.

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Natural ventilation device

Based on the principle natural ventilation lies the difference in air pressure in the room.

For arrangement natural system For a cellar you need 2 pipes: exhaust and supply. The exhaust air exits through the exhaust vent. Air enters the supply room. In order to make ventilation, galvanized or asbestos-cement products are used. In this case, the diameter of the pipe is calculated by calculation: an area of 1 sq.m will be provided by a pipe of 26 cm.

The exhaust pipe is usually laid along the corner of the cellar. Its lower open end is located at a height of 140-150 cm above the cellar floor level, that is, almost under the ceiling of the room.

The exhaust duct structure is laid vertically through all rooms, going outside, it should be 50 cm higher than the roof ridge. To prevent condensation from accumulating on it, the part must be insulated. It is best for these purposes to use a larger diameter pipe into which the air duct pipe will be inserted, and the gap between them will be filled with insulation, which can be used as mineral wool 50 mm thick.

The supply pipe of the ventilation duct is located in the opposite corner of the cellar in relation to the exhaust pipe. Its open end is located below the exhaust end and is at a level of 40-60 cm from the cellar floor level. The supply pipe of the air duct rises above the level of the zero point of the house at a height of approximately 80 cm.

This is exactly the location ventilation ducts allows you to create the required pressure difference for air movement in the cellar. If the temperature difference inside the cellar is significant, then a draft is inevitable. To avoid this, it is necessary to install a special valve that will regulate the flow of circulating air. Such valves are installed on both the supply and exhaust pipes. In addition, to prevent insects and midges from entering the cellar, the upper opening of the supply pipe is covered with a mesh, which is periodically cleaned or replaced.

The advantages of natural cellar ventilation are:

low cost: costs will affect only pipes and insulation;
energy savings;
possibility of self-installation;
no need for constant monitoring - regulation is required only when there is a large temperature difference;
compatibility with other ventilation systems installed in the house, which allows you to additionally build forced ventilation for the cellar.

After installation is completed ventilation pipes it is necessary to check their performance. To do this, attach a sheet of plain paper to one of the ventilation pipes. At the same time, if you attach it to the exhaust pipe, the sheet should be attracted to the pipe, and slightly repelled from the supply pipe. In addition to the sheet, you can use a candle flame as a test for ventilation operation. To do this, you need to light a candle and bring it to the exhaust pipe - the flame will change its direction towards the pipe. When the candle is brought to the supply pipe, the flame, on the contrary, will be directed towards the cellar. After successful verification one of the ways the cellar ventilation system will be ready for operation.

However, in the future you should carefully monitor the air condition in the cellar. If mustiness, dampness, or condensation appears on the wall or ceiling, the efficiency of the ventilation system should be increased. This can be done by opening the valves or installing forced ventilation.

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Forced ventilation of the cellar: features

Installation diagram of ventilation pipes in the cellar: A – Supply pipe; B – Exhaust pipe.

However, natural ventilation is not always enough to fully provide the room with fresh air. Therefore, if the area of the room is large and the height is close to 2 m, or the natural hood does not cope with its functions properly, then a forced cellar system will be required.

The construction of an artificial structure is a rather complex engineering task, the implementation of which will require significant efforts or the involvement of specialists.

Structurally, this ventilation is a sequential installation on the supply or exhaust pipe of such elements as:

duct heater;
duct fan;
sound muffler;
filter cassette;
duct fan;
check valve;
blinds and pipe sheathing.

Wherein duct fans differ in their types and other technical characteristics, for example, capacities. The direction of the fans should be such that the air goes outward when installed on exhaust pipes and goes inward when installed on supply pipes. In this case, the pipes themselves can be placed horizontally or vertically. From technical parameters fans directly affects the efficiency and durability of the ventilation system.

The forced ventilation system can be automatic or mechanical.

Ventilation in the cellar plays a very important role, because if there is no regular air flow, dampness will appear in the room for storing fresh food. Setting up a hood in the basement is quite simple. And this can be done not only at one of the stages of construction, but also in an already finished building.

On what principle does the ventilation system work?

Before making ventilation in the cellar, study the principle of its operation. It is based on the laws of physics, which are relied upon when creating a scheme for arranging ventilation. According to it, to create ventilation, 2 holes must be provided. One of them is leaking into the basement. Fresh air. Through the second hole, air, along with vapors, exits the cellar to the street. The scheme is quite simple, but for greater efficiency you need to run pipes to the holes. In addition, the operation of the system is greatly influenced by the location of the pipes for air supply and exhaust, as well as their level above the soil surface.

Ventilation pipes should be located directly in the basement walls. It is also common for residents to install a hood in the garage cellar. In the latter case, the pipes must pass through the room and exit above the roof of the building. Very important factor When creating a diagram, the height of installation of pipes from the cellar to the street is considered. If calculated incorrectly, the cellar hood will suck in too much cold air, which will negatively affect shelf life fresh vegetables. Experts also do not advise making too small holes for piping, as this will not allow evaporation to be completely removed, which will lead to loss of food.

There are a lot of opinions and advice on how to make a hood in the cellar. Let's explore the most useful recommendations concerning the creation of a scheme and the air circulation system itself for basement. Many experts advise to provide a ventilation system during the construction of the basement. At this time, you can leave holes in the walls of the room into which pipes will be installed in the future. So as not to choose later appropriate place for laying channels, we recommend including an exhaust system in the initial basement design.

Pipes that are used for air circulation must have same size. If the room is different high humidity, the exhaust pipe can be taken with a diameter slightly larger than that of the supply pipe. One of the main rules is not to do the opposite, otherwise it will lead to air retention in the room. Another helpful advice– do not place both pipes next to each other. In such a situation, the basement will not be fully ventilated. It is best to place the ducts in opposite corners so that the air passes through the entire room. The exhaust vent must be installed under the basement ceiling. This is due to the fact that the exhaust hot air will quickly rise to the top. This position of the pipe will contribute to uninterrupted air purification without the slightest stagnation under the ceiling.

The exhaust pipe should rise 1.5 m above the ridge. This will ensure sufficient air draft.

To equip the exhaust system, plastic pipes are most often used. Ventilation of the cellar in the garage should be arranged using pipes with a minimum of turns and bends. It is best that the channels are perfectly smooth and straight. In addition, each channel must have the same diameter along its entire length. Before ventilating the basement, install special dampers on the pipes. Their presence is especially important in winter, when you need to independently regulate the air supply and outflow. If the pipe heads are vertical, they will need to be protected from rain and snow. This can be done by using a decorative metal plate in the shape of an umbrella.

Types of exhaust systems - natural or forced?

Also, before you make ventilation in the basement, decide on the type of system. It can be natural or forced. Choose the most suitable option possible, taking into account the layout and volume of the basement. The first type of hood is based on a small difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside the room. Ventilation efficiency is greatly influenced by the location of the pipes. The air intake hole should be at a height of about 30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust hole should be at a distance of 20 cm below the ceiling. It is impossible to leave the latter lower, as otherwise the ceiling will very quickly begin to become damp. Such a system will not be enough for arranging large basements that consist of several rooms.

Ventilation of the second type also consists of pipes, but special fans must be installed in them to force the air to circulate in the room. The most simple system includes installation of a fan only in the exhaust duct. In this case, a vacuum is artificially created in the room, which helps to quickly draw air through the inflow hole. The fan power must be selected taking into account the area of the cellar. Often homeowners do things a little differently. They put fans on both channels. This is especially true for basements with several small rooms.

Ventilation installation - detailed algorithm

Almost every inexperienced person wonders how to properly build a cellar. To do this, you need to follow a certain algorithm:

1. If ventilation system installed after the construction of the basement, then a hole must be made in its ceiling for air circulation.
2. After this, a pipe intended for exhaust is lowered through the hole.
3. Fix the pipe under the ceiling surface no more than 15-20 cm below it.
4. Outside, the pipe should be raised 1.5 meters above the ground or above the roof.
5. In the corner of the ceiling opposite, you also need to make a hole and stretch a pipe into it for air flow. Place it at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor.
6. The outside supply pipe should not be too high. If it passes through the ceiling, then its upper part should be located no higher than 25 cm above the surface.
7. If the inflow pipe is led through the wall, then you will need to put a deflector or grill on it.
8. If ventilation installation is carried out inside a residential building with a stove or fireplace, then the exhaust pipe rises near the chimney. This will promote more active removal of air from the basement due to the difference in temperature.
9. At the end of installation, control valves must be installed on the pipes. They will allow you to enter the premises required quantity air.

After installing the system, you will need to check it for traction. To ensure normal air pressure at the inlet, a paper sheet is applied to the supply pipe. If it starts to tremble, it means that air is actively entering the room. The second method is to set fire to paper in a bucket inside the basement. Based on the direction of the smoke, it will be possible to determine where and how fast the air is moving.

What needs to be done to maintain the indoor microclimate

Having considered how to properly make ventilation, we suggest you understand further measures to care for the room. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in the basement, you need to perform certain procedures from time to time. So, to help reduce humidity in the room, ventilate it regularly. In the summer, be sure to open the doors and hatches of the room, as well as the valves on the pipes, once a week. The hot wind that gets inside will dry out the floor, walls and ceiling of the basement well.

Often, owners are faced with situations where they need to quickly increase the humidity in the room. To do this, you need to spray it with water from a regular spray bottle. You can also place a container with wet sand or sawdust in the basement. If you need to dry out the basement, then first of all you need to remove all the shelving and other furniture from it. All racks need to be dried in a natural way under straight lines sun rays. Open the hatches and door wide and turn on the fan. The room must remain in this condition for at least 3 days. After this, proceed directly to drying the basement.

To get rid of moisture in a room, bring and leave several boxes of quicklime or coarse lime in it. table salt. These substances absorb moisture very quickly. In addition, they effectively disinfect the surfaces of the room and the air in it. More old method is to use a candle. Install and secure it next to the exhaust vent. Light a candle and wait a couple of days. The flame generates better draft, due to which more processed raw air comes out.

Another way to dry quickly and efficiently is to use a fryer. It is easy to do it yourself using a regular metal bucket. First, make several holes in the container, then fill it with birch firewood. Next, light the logs and leave to burn for at least 12 hours. During this time, the room will quickly dry out, after which you can store your food in it without fear of losing it.

Processing the cellar to protect it from moisture is an important procedure for the freshness of food

The measures for caring for the cellar do not end with just drying the room. To extend the period of preservation of the cellar without moisture, the surface of the floor and walls must be covered waterproofing compounds. If the walls in the room are made of concrete, use deep penetration impregnation. It must be applied in several layers, each of which will seep into the slabs and close the holes and cracks in them.

Sometimes a dried cellar is covered with roofing felt. It is considered a good insulator, but to use it, the walls and floor must be perfectly level. To do this, first mastic is applied to the surface, which needs to be heated, and then the insulator itself is laid on top.

Ecologically safe material Clay is used for waterproofing. It must be very oily, otherwise there will be no benefit from its use. Before applying the material, the basement floor must be laid out with stones, on top of which clay mixed with sand is poured. The layer should be approximately 10–12 cm. After application, the clay must be compacted between the stones, after which a layer of coarse sand must be poured on top. It will also need to be compacted. The only disadvantage of this method is that it takes a long time for the floor to dry. On average, this takes approximately 30–40 days.

Drying the basement using household appliances - fan or heater?

You can also get rid of excess moisture in the food storage room using household heaters and fans. In the first case, “wind-blown” and convector heater models are suitable. To dry wall and floor surfaces, install the heater in the center of the room. This way, the device will distribute heat evenly and none of the corners will remain damp. Don't forget that this drying method takes a lot of time. In addition, you will have to spend a lot on paying for electricity.

Often, basement owners use powerful steam generators. Due to its radiation, the food storage room dries out very quickly. As a result, you will spend a little less, because drying will take less time. Due to the effectiveness of this method, it is often used even in basements that have experienced a flood.

To get rid of moisture using a fan, the device must be placed in the center of the room and turned on. Complete drying in this way will take at least 4 days. Often, an ordinary old potbelly stove helps cellar owners. In such cases, the stove outlet pipe is led to the basement hood. You will have to heat the potbelly stove for at least 5 days until the basement surfaces are completely dry. If there is no exhaust hole in the cellar, then this method will not work.

The dream of every gardener is to have a dry and spacious garden, the air in it should be fresh, but without drafts. In order to build such a miracle storage facility with your own hands, you need to provide it with supply and exhaust ventilation. Proper ventilation The cellar will allow you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions for storing vegetables, relieve it from excessive dampness and protect it from mold. Knowing the basic rules for installing natural ventilation, you can make the cellar dry yourself.

Natural ventilation - the right device:

to ensure good ventilation, 2 pipes are installed: supply and exhaust;
air exchange will be better if the ventilation pipes are located in two levels and, if the storage design allows, in different places, which will avoid sucking in fresh air;
the exhaust ventilation pipe is placed at the top - right under the ceiling;
the supply pipe for the ventilation of the cellar, on the contrary, is at the bottom at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor;
The figures below show the correct and incorrect cellar exhaust system;

use large quantity ventilation pipes with a smaller cross-section are undesirable, which is especially important for northern regions;
with such a cellar ventilation device, air exchange occurs due to the difference specific gravity warm internal air and cold outside. This is a natural process, therefore ventilation of the cellar according to this scheme is called natural;
the exhaust pipe must be installed above the roof ridge and insulated (it is made double) in the place where it passes through the cellar or attic. The higher the draft in the exhaust ventilation pipe, the greater it is;
The cross-section of the ventilation pipes depends on the size of the cellar. So, with a cellar area of 6-8 sq. m, the exhaust pipe is required to have a cross-section of 120x120 mm, but if the cellar is equipped with only one pipe, then its cross-section should be at least 150x150 mm;
For the manufacture of ventilation pipes, boards 30-40 mm thick are used. They are well adjusted, tightly knocked together and equipped with valves (latches) and dampers, which will allow you to regulate air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions;

if the cellar has small sizes, then for its ventilation one two-channel pipe with wind catching is sufficient (see figure). With this design, the pipe has two - one for air flow into the cellar, the other for exhaust. Each channel can be equipped with an independent valve;

ventilation of some types of cellars (for example, if it is located under a garage) can be arranged through a hatch, covered with bars. The grille is insulated on top with an old blanket or other insulation;
check efficient work ventilation, you can attach pieces of thin paper to the outlet openings of the pipes. If there is convection, the paper will begin to sway;
The second way to check whether the cellar ventilation is working is to place a bucket of hot coals in it. By the movement of smoke from the coals, you can observe the air flows inside the vegetable storage;
insufficient ventilation can be easily detected by the following signs: stale and musty air; mold; feeling of dampness; condensation on the ceiling, bins, walls, shelving;
To reduce humidity, the cellar needs to be ventilated. For this interior doors They make them with bars and in the fall they open everything that can be opened - hatches, doors, latches. At the same time, a box filled with coarse table salt or quicklime is brought into the cellar (they not only absorb moisture, but also disinfect the air);

if, on the contrary, you need to increase the humidity in a cellar you built with your own hands, then you can spray water, sprinkle the floor in the cellar with wet sawdust, or put a box filled with wet sawdust.

When the cellar is in the garage

Ventilation of the cellar in the garage is important not only to maintain the temperature and humidity necessary to ensure the safety of food, but also to prevent dampness in the garage. Options for extracting a cellar in a garage:

natural - based on the temperature difference between outside and inside the basement, causing continuous air circulation. Natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage is the most cheap option hoods.
forced (artificial) - air flow is forced by fans. Fully mechanized ventilation of the basement under the garage using a monoblock or modular system controlled software, costs from 1000 US dollars;
combined - includes elements of natural and forced ventilation of the cellar.

Natural ventilation –

as in the case of a cellar in a house, in most cases natural ventilation is used to ventilate a cellar in a garage, the performance of which is quite sufficient for small volumes of vegetable storage. The scheme for natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage also provides for at least two pipes made of resistant materials. Most suitable material for ventilation pipes - metal or plastic, for example, PVC. Below is a ventilation diagram: on the left is a standard diagram; on the right is a diagram of the ventilation system for the cellar in the garage, which ensures ventilation of the garage itself.

As can be seen from the diagrams, proper ventilation of a cellar in a garage includes:

inlet and outlet located in different sides premises. The best placement is in the far opposite corners;
ventilation pipes must have the same cross-sectional diameter along the entire length;
the fewer bends and turns there are in the supply and exhaust ventilation pipes of the cellar in the garage, the better. Ideally, there should be none at all;
the supply pipe is located as close to the floor as possible. The pipe opening is covered with a mesh to prevent the penetration of rodents and other small animals;
the bottom of the exhaust pipe - as high as possible (closer to the ceiling);
the top of the exhaust pipe is placed as high as possible - at a distance > 0.8 - 1 m above the ridge, and in the case pitched roof, counting is carried out from its highest part. High location the exhaust pipe of the cellar ventilation in the garage improves draft and prevents snow from drifting its outlet end;
Air exchange is adjusted through control dampers built into the supply and exhaust ventilation of the cellar in the garage. Dampers allow you to dry the cellar and regulate both the inflow and outflow of air. Dampers are indispensable for ventilating a cellar in a garage in cold winters, when it is necessary to dose the volume of air renewal; otherwise, stored vegetables and preparations can be frozen;
Both pipes are protected from above by canopies, protective covers or deflectors. This will prevent getting atmospheric precipitation inwards, as well as in the case of using a deflector for exhaust, it will create a vacuum area around it, which will increase draft;
comes out through the exhaust pipe warm air, so condensation may form inside it in frosty weather. The condensate freezes, which reduces the air passage area until the air duct is completely blocked. To prevent such a situation, the pipe must be insulated, especially in the place where it passes through the roof. For insulation, impact-resistant materials are used. In addition, in winter the pipe must be periodically cleared of snow, and to facilitate the process, the outlet part of the pipe is made removable. This will allow you to clean only the clogged part of the pipe.

Proper natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage will ensure constant air circulation, and most of the room will be involved in air exchange. The cost of natural basement ventilation is insignificant, you won’t need to spend a lot of money, you can spend 1,500 rubles (purchase of consumables, and make the ventilation device yourself). Main disadvantage natural exhaust: in the case when the air temperature outside is equal to or greater than the air temperature in the cellar, the air exchange stops.

Forced ventilation –

allows you to arrange a cellar hood in the garage so that the air exchange process does not depend on weather conditions. To do this, it is necessary to modernize the exhaust pipe: an electric fan is placed in it, creating an air vortex. Thus, air is expelled from the room, which ensures an influx of fresh air through the supply pipe. Air exchange can also be organized through one passage (use a double-leaf pipe). The forced method allows you to organize ventilation of the cellar in the garage and ensure constant air exchange in the summer, when the natural method is powerless.

If desired, you can arrange ideal conditions for storing food in your garage cellar by installing fully mechanized basement ventilation. In this case, the supply and exhaust of air in the room is provided by a monoblock ( modular system) and is controlled by software. The cost of such installations can exceed $1,000.

When the cellar is in the house

Cellar ventilation in a house performs two functions at once: it provides suitable storage conditions for food and prevents a deterioration in the comfortable living of people in the house. Improper ventilation of the cellar in the house can negatively affect comfort and coziness: dampness in the cellar and musty, stale air easily penetrates into the living spaces, and all residents of the house will have to breathe this air. A tightly closed lid or cellar door will not save the situation.

The optimal ventilation scheme for a cellar in a house is shown in the figure. The scheme is suitable for both natural and forced (artificial) ventilation:

the forced method involves installing a stationary fan; this method is used for air exchange in large-volume vegetable storage facilities. The cellar fan is placed on the exhaust duct;
For natural ventilation, a fan is also used, but not permanently, but temporarily - installed for several days to dry the storage.

Features of cellar ventilation in the house:

the supply pipe is laid through the part of the foundation located above the ground, then through the basement of the house;
the supply pipe must have a minimum number of bends and a minimum length, and must not have narrowings or expansions;
when installing cellar ventilation in the house, it is necessary to ensure that in winter the supply pipe is not blocked with snow;
the part of the exhaust pipe located in a cold place must be insulated to prevent condensation;
The cellar ventilation hood is located inside the wall of the house or in a special ventilation duct, which usually runs along the wall (for example, from the kitchen). To collect everything ventilation ducts together, it is better to make a cellar under the kitchen.

It’s dark inside - there are no windows, the light comes from a light bulb and only when you need to take something.
Low temperature is mandatory for long-term storage of things and products, otherwise “the love has passed, the tomatoes have wilted.” Literally.
Constant air circulation, influx of fresh air and removal of stale air.
Humidity is about 90% - not too much and not too little. Enough to maintain freshness without rotting or drying out.

If the building does not meet the listed requirements, you should think about the need high-quality ventilation. To create such an air cycle, 2 types of ventilation are used - passive and mechanical.

For small rooms

When laying the foundation, vents are left in the basement above the cellar. They are covered with iron bars to prevent pets, pests and debris (leaves, branches, waste paper) from getting inside. When frost begins, thick insulating fabric is placed over the grille and pressed down with an iron sheet. With proper design, the cellar will maintain the temperature acceptable for storing food even in winter.

This is the simplest way of arrangement, but it does not provide enough good ventilation, and precipitation (snow, rain) will in any case fall into the vents and accumulate.

If it is not possible to make two separate vents, you can split one in half. The first part with a wind deflector directs fresh air into the room, the second is slightly covered from parallel blowing and will serve as an exhaust hood.

Passive (natural) ventilation

It is no longer possible to properly ventilate large cellars with niches alone - air circulation is necessary here. But you can do ventilation in the cellar with your own hands quite quickly and without great expense, and a full-fledged ventilation system will allow you to store any things in the future without the risk of damage.

A significant disadvantage of natural ventilation is its dependence on weather conditions. In the complete absence of wind, the air flow is extremely weak, therefore it can be considered an intermediate solution and a “framework” for the mechanical one.

First you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes, calculate the volume of the chamber and required amount air for normal circulation, after which a cellar ventilation scheme is drawn up. The formula is quite simple: 1 cm of pipe diameter is 13 sq. cm. sections. For 1 sq.m of cellar you need 26 sq.cm of section. That is, with a cellar of 10 sq.m. the diameter is calculated as follows: 10 sq.m (area) * 26 (required cross-section per meter): 13 (section per 1 cm of diameter).

Simply put, the area is multiplied by 2 - the diameter of the pipe is obtained. If the air duct rectangular shape– we take the calculation of 1 sq.m. room area = 26 sq. cm. duct area (in in this case area 230 sq.cm. = air duct measuring 10x23 cm). Ventilation of a cellar in a garage is done according to the same principle, but taking into account the design features - it cannot always be removed directly.

Since the garage is used mainly for storing products that are more resistant to temperature and moisture, there is less dependence on ventilation, but the car still needs air circulation to prevent condensation from accumulating.

After this, the required length is measured, and installation work can begin.

Installation of exhaust and supply

The air duct is led through the ceiling in the corner of the cellar to the roof, always above the level of the building - otherwise the draft will be unstable and depend on the direction of the wind. A damper is attached at the bottom for adjustment, and a mesh (from birds and debris) and a “fungus” from rain are placed on top. You cannot place it end to end, otherwise air will not flow freely, but a “mushroom” that is too high is useless by default, since rain and snow rarely fall vertically, and the wind will blow them into the pipe. If there is already a ceiling above the cellar ( concrete wall, slabs, bricks) - instead of one large passage, you can make several smaller ones, but equal in total area/diameter. Proper ventilation of the cellar in winter will protect food from icing and completely allows for the “division” of pipes.

The inflow is located diametrically to the hood - in the opposite corner at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the floor. The size of the supply channel can be made slightly larger than the hood for reliability and better air supply. Similar to a hood, it is installed on the roof and is also equipped with a mesh and rain protection. It is important that the supply pipe is at least 0.5 m below the hood, otherwise the system will close and air will not flow due to the same pressure in both channels.

After installation, it is necessary to check the traction.

No sensors - just hold a burning lighter to the exhaust vent for 5-10 seconds. If the flame burns evenly and is “pulled” into the channel, everything is in order. If it goes out, it means that air is not coming in or coming out. In this case, the flame is applied to each channel in turn for testing. Near the inflow, it should tremble from the wind flow; if it burns perfectly evenly, the pipe is either clogged or incorrectly installed. Change the height, increase the diameter - this should solve the problem.

Forced (mechanical) ventilation

Unlike passive mechanical ventilation the basement in a private house does not depend on the weather, wind strength/direction and other details. Moreover, existing passive ventilation will serve as the basis for creating forced circulation. Actually, the basic principles of the design are no different - both pipes are located diametrically, both lead to the top, both are protected from debris and precipitation. Forced ventilation is equipped in two ways.

Using fans

An electric fan is mounted on the hood, blowing air out of the room. As a result, a small vacuum is formed inside, which itself will draw in outside air. An alternative is an inlet fan for better air pumping, but the load on it will be slightly increased if the hood is not wide enough. Ideally, you should install speed-controlled fans on both channels and set them to the same speed.

Since the humidity in basements is higher than under normal conditions, it is better to use low-voltage fans and additionally insulate the wires and contacts and first consult with professionals on how to make ventilation in the basement with your own hands.

Non-mechanical

An alternative is deflectors. They are placed on the hood instead of a hood and rarefy the air in the pipe, creating increased draft. Another option is turbines. The force of the wind rotates the shaft, it transfers force to the fan, which improves the outflow of air. Both options do not require electricity, but when installing them, you need to adjust the draft.

There is only one disadvantage of deflectors and turbines - they are also dependent on the wind and in its absence will not bring much benefit. It is better to strengthen the exhaust fan with a fan in such cases.

A DIY video of cellar ventilation will help you better understand all the details - visual perception is much more effective than any text.